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Arduino Laser Engraver

by getburnt on November 23, 2013

Table of Contents
Arduino Laser Engraver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Intro: Arduino Laser Engraver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 1: Frame Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 2: Linear Motion Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 3: Frame Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 4: Stepper Motors + Drivers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 5: Laser Diode + Driver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 6: Power Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 7: Microcontroller + Electrical Connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 8: Software (Raster Engraving) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 9: Software (Vector Mode) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 10: Final Results and Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Author:getburnt

Get Burnt
I'm a young engineer from Australia

Intro: Arduino Laser Engraver

I started this project because I wanted to make something that had mechanical, electrical and software components. After looking around on Instructables, I figured that
an Arduino based laser engraver would be an interesting machine to make, and that the machine itself could make interesting things. Laser diodes have also advanced
quite a lot in the last few years, allowing reasonably powerful DIY laser engravers to be made without the hassles of laser tubes.
This machine can engrave wood and cut paper. I haven't tried other materials yet because there is no fume extraction capability - plastics generally create toxic gases
when burnt.
SAFETY WARNING - Please be safe when using lasers. The laser used in this machine can cause permanent eyesight damage, and probably even blindness. When
working with powerful lasers (>5mW), always wear a pair of laser safety glasses designed to block your laser's wavelength.
For a quick overview of the guts of the machine, have a look at the video below
(Note: The machine runs slightly faster now, and also has a different laser heatsink to the one in the video)

For pictures of engravings, skip to the end, or visit my website's gallery:

http://getburnt.weebly.com/gallery.html
A spreadsheet containing the parts list is below.
Also, for any Aussies unsure about the laser import laws, I've attached the current rules (at Dec 2013) below. Laser diodes and laser modules (such as the one in this
machine) are legal , however laser pointers are prohibited.
This is a pdf version of the following webpage: http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page4372.asp

Image Notes
1. Frickin laser beams!

File Downloads
http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

parts_and_prices.xls (30 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'parts_and_prices.xls']

Australian Customs - firearms and weapons.pdf (61 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Australian Customs - firearms and weapons.pdf']

Step 1: Frame Design

Before starting construction, I made a CAD model of the machine to make sure that everything would fit, and to figure out the dimensions of the parts. Some screenshots
of the machine's CAD model are above.
The y-axis is on the bottom of the machine, and provides a moving base for the engraved piece. The x-axis is on the top , and moves the laser assembly (the laser isn't
shown in the model).

Step 2: Linear Motion Method

The machine uses ballscrews and linear bearings to control the position and motion of the X and Y axes.
The specifications of the machine's ballscrews and accessories are:
16mm ballscrew, 400mm length (462mm including machined ends)
5mm pitch
C7 accuracy rating
BK12/BF12 ballscrew supports
I chose to use ballscrews due to their very high accuracy (minimal backlash), rigidity and efficiency. Since the ballscrew nut consists of ball bearings rolling in a track
against the ballscrew, there is very little friction, which means the motors can run at higher speeds without stalling.
The second photo shows a test fitting for the x-axis. On either side of the ballscrew is a linear bearing on a steel shaft. This configuration is quite common for cnc
machines, and provides a stable foundation for the base plate (Y-axis) and laser assembly (X-axis).
The parts I used are:
16mm hardened chromed shaft , 500mm length (qty: 4)
16mm linear bearing - SC16LUU (qty:4)
16mm shaft support - SK16 (qty:8)
The ballscrew nut's rotational orientation is locked using a piece of aluminium (this is how we spell it in Australia!) angle attached to the moving component of the
axis. This can be seen in the last photo, which shows the y-axis. The base plate is fastened to the two linear bearings, and to the ballscrew nut (through the aluminium
angle). Rotation of the ballscrew shaft results in the linear motion of the base plate.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Image Notes
1. The most important tool

Step 3: Frame Construction

The ballscrew supports and shaft supports are mounted on 50mm x 50mm hollow aluminium posts . These posts are used for all major structural parts of the machine,
and are actually aluminium fence posts (purchased at Bunnings, if anyone from Australia is reading). The thickness of the aluminium is about 2mm .
I chose to use these posts because they are easy to cut and drill, and also hold their shape well when supporting heavy loads. In addition, because they are square, they
provide excellent reference surfaces to make sure things are parallel / perpendicular.
The holes were drilled using a cordless drill, and the posts were cut using a mitre saw. (It is also possible to cut the aluminium posts with a hacksaw).
M5 socket head cap screws , and M5 nuts were used to hold most of the parts together. I didn't use a permanent fastening method because I wanted to keep
everything adjustable. Using screws also means that the machine is easy to disassemble and modify for future upgrades.
Some pictures of the frame being built are above. The base of the Y-axis is made up of several A4-sized 4.5mm thick clear acrylic sheets .

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Step 4: Stepper Motors + Drivers

After some poor results with NEMA 17 stepper motors in an earlier design, I decided to use some NEMA 23 motors with a decent torque rating for this machine. Strong
stepper motors also require strong drivers to get the most out of them. As a result, I chose to use a dedicated stepper driver for each motor .
Some details about the chosen components are below:
Stepper Motor (qty:2)
NEMA 23 frame size
1.8Nm holding torque (255 oz-in)
200 steps / revolution (1.8 deg step angle)
Up to 3.0A current
Weight - 1.05kg (They are really heavy!!)
Bipolar 4 wire connection
Stepper Driver (qty:2)
Digital stepping driver
Microstepping feature
Output current 0.5A to 5.6A
Output current limiter (reduces risk of motors overheating)
Control Signals: Step and Direction inputs
Pulse Input freq up to 200kHz
20V-50V DC supply voltage
For each axis, the motor directly drives the ballscrew through a motor coupler . The motors are mounted to the frame using two aluminium angles and an aluminium
plate. The aluminium angles and plate are 3mm thick, and are strong enough to support the 1kg motor without bending.
Note: It is really important to correctly align the motor shaft and ballscrew. The couplers I used have some flex to compensate for minor errors, but if the alignment error is
too large, they will fail!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Image Notes
1. Failure is always an option...

Step 5: Laser Diode + Driver

The laser diode I chose is a 1.5W 445nm diode mounted in a 12mm aixiz housing, with a focusable glass lens . These can be found, preassembled, on eBay. Since it
is a 445nm laser, the light it produces is visible blue light.
The laser diode requires a heatsink , when running at high power levels. I used two SK12 12mm aluminium shaft supports, to both mount and cool the laser module.
The intensity of the laser output is dependent on the current that goes through it. The diode by itself cannot regulate current, and if connected directly to a supply, it will
draw more and more current until it destroys itself. So, a regulated current circuit is required to protect the laser diode and control its brightness. A circuit diagram of my
laser driver is above.
This circuit requires at least a 10V DC supply, and has a simple on/off signal input, which is provided by the Arduino. The LM317T chip is a linear voltage regulator, which
has been configured as a current regulator . A potentiometer is included in the circuit to allow the regulated current to be adjusted.
The values of the resistors are:
R1 - 1 ohm (3W)
R2 - 5 ohm (15W) potentiometer
R3 - 180 ohm (0.5W)
(R1 and R2 need to have sufficient power ratings to support the power that is dissipated through them)
R1 and R2 together control the value of the regulated current. The range of current outputs for this circuit are:
R1+R2 = 1ohm: 1.25A
R1+R2 = 6ohm: 0.21A
The NPN transistor is used as a switch . When there is a 5V output from the Arduino, the circuit will turn on the laser. When there is a 0V output from the Arduino, the
circuit will switch off the laser.
I used veroboard (stripboard) to mount all the laser driver components. Heatsinks were also installed on the LM317T and NPN transistor. Solid core 22 AWG wire was
used for connections between different points on the veroboard.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Image Notes
1. Do not forget to use these!
I bought OD4 190-540nm laser safety glasses to reduce the 445nm laser output to
a safe level

Image Notes
1. These heatsinks are probably overkill, but they look like tiny skyscrapers :)
2. 5ohm potentiometer
3. Ignore this half of the board

Step 6: Power Supplies

The machine has two separate power supplies , due to different voltage requirements. The stepper motor drivers can accept a 20V-50V DC supply. Each stepper motor
has a maximum current of 3.0A, but in normal operation, the motors don't need 3.0A. When they are running continuously, I found that they need less than 1A each.
When the motors are changing speed, they usually need less than 2A each. The power supply I used to supply both stepper drivers is a 100W lab power supply, with a
maximum output of 36V at 3A .
The laser driver requires a supply voltage of at least 10V, with current of at least 1.25A. I used an ATX PC PSU as a 12V power supply. The laser driver is connected to
the PSU through a breakout box that I made, which provides standard banana jacks for +5V and +12V terminals. The box also has analog ammeters for monitoring
current. For instructions on how to create an ATX PSU breakout box, there are a number of other instructables on this site.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Image Notes
1. Piggyback banana plugs

Image Notes
1. Backlit labels for the ammeters
(left is for 12V, right is for 5V)

Image Notes
1. Lab power supply
2. ATX PC PSU
3. Breakout Box for ATX PSU

Step 7: Microcontroller + Electrical Connections

An Arduino provides the brains for the machine. It outputs step and direction signals for the stepper drivers, and a laser enable signal for the laser driver. In the current
design, only 5 output pins are required to control the machine.
A diagram showing all the electrical connections is above.
An important thing to remember is that the grounds for all components should be connected together .
I used solid core 22AWG wire for signal lines and power cables. For power cables, the power supply ends were terminated with banana plugs .

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Step 8: Software (Raster Engraving)

When I originally designed the machine, I only wanted it to engrave regular bitmap picture files. So, I made three separate programs , which when used together, allow
normal bitmap pictures to be engraved onto wood.
C# Program (Generates "instruction" text file)
This accepts a bitmap file and outputs a text file , containing "instruction characters". The bitmap type it accepts is a 24-bit bitmap , with only black and white pixels
(no greys / colours). The program analyses the bitmap, scanning row by row for the black pixels that need to be engraved. First, it scans the top row left-to-right, then
drops down one row, scans right-to-left, drops down another row, scans left-to-right, and so on, until the last row is scanned. It can skip blank pixels on the edges of the
rows, and can skip blank rows . Also, due to the Arduino serial buffer limitations, the program divides the text file into comma separated "instruction blocks", which are
under 64 characters long. These numerical instructions are interpreted by the Arduino (see Arduino Sketch section for details).
This program works well for smaller images (eg less than 1000 x 700), but gets bogged down with larger images that have lots of burnt pixels (can take over 10 minutes
to generate the instruction file).
The way that this program scans the image carries over directly to the way the machine engraves the image. The Arduino uses the instruction file to make the machine
engrave the image row by row.
Sample Comma Separated Instruction Blocks (to see what the numbers mean, scroll down to the Arduino sketch section):
111111111111111111111111115555555555555555555555555555555555920,
019201920192010101010101010101010101010101010101010101010101010,
010101010101010101010101010101010101010101010101010101010101010,
0101010101010101010101010192019201920,
11594039403940394039403940303030303030303030303030303030303030,
030303030303030303030303030303030303030303030303030303030303030,
0303030303030303030303030303030394039403940394039403940,
The executable is at the bottom of the page
Processing IDE Sketch (Streams instruction data)
A simple Processing sketch was created to stream the contents of the instruction file .
You can get Processing from here: http://processing.org/
The data is streamed via a virtual serial port connection to the Arduino. The sketch sends the comma separated instruction blocks, one block at a time , with a delay
between blocks . These delays are calculated at run time, based on the contents of each instruction block. The delay is needed to ensure that the Processing sketch
doesn't send new instructions to the Arduino before the previous instructions have executed. If this occurs, the engraved image will be corrupted, so the timing values
used in the Processing sketch and Arduino sketch have to be compatible.
The Processing sketch also provides a progress status, by counting the total number of instruction blocks, and continuously reporting how many instruction blocks have
been sent to the Arduino.
The sketch is at the bottom of the page
Arduino Sketch (Interprets instruction data and controls hardware)
The Arduino sketch interprets each instruction block. There are a number of instruction characters:
1 - Move RIGHT by one pixel FAST (blank pixel)
2 - Move RIGHT by one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel)
3 - Move LEFT by one pixel FAST (blank pixel
4 - Move LEFT by one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel)
5 - Move UP by one pixel FAST (blank pixel)
6 - Move UP by one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel)
7 - Move DOWN by one pixel FAST (blank pixel)
8 - Move DOWN by one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel)
9 - Turn laser ON
0 - Turn laser OFF
r - Return axes to start position
With each character, the arduino runs a corresponding function, to write to the output pins.
The Arduino controls the motor speed through the delays between step pulses . Ideally, the machine would run the motors at the same high speed, whether its
engraving a pixel or passing over a blank pixel. However, due to the laser diode's limited power, the machine has to slow down slightly when burning a pixel . This is
why there are two speeds for each direction in the instruction character list above. Currently, I have configured the machine to pass over a blank pixel in 8ms , and to
pass over a burnt pixel in 18ms .
The Arduino sketch also controls image scaling .
The stepper drivers have been configured for half-stepping , meaning that the drivers need 400 step pulses per one revolution of the motor, or 400 step pulses / 5mm
of linear motion . Without any scaling, the engraved pictures would be too small to see.
I decided to use a scale factor of 8 , so that when the machine moves one pixel, 8 step pulses are sent. This translates to 50 pixels / one revolution of the motor, or 50
pixels / 5mm of linear motion . This means that the pixel pitch is 0.1mm, or 254dpi . An image that is 1600x900 pixels will be 16cm x 9cm in size.
It should be noted that although the pixel pitch is 0.1mm, the pixel spot created by the laser is larger than 0.1mm x 0.1mm.
The sketch is at the bottom of the page

File Downloads

CNC Image Program.zip (21 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'CNC Image Program.zip']

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

processing_sketch.zip (763 bytes)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'processing_sketch.zip']

arduino_sketch.zip (1 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'arduino_sketch.zip']

Step 9: Software (Vector Mode)

The machine is compatible with the very cool Grbl Arduino software.
Check out the Grbl website here: http://bengler.no/grbl
Grbl has been designed to control 3-axis CNC milling machines . It interprets G-code instructions, and outputs control signals for X/Y/Z axis stepper motor drivers and
the spindle.
For the laser engraver, the X and Y axis stepper drivers are connected to the relevant pins on the Arduino. The Z axis outputs are ignored.
The laser driver is connected to the spindle enable pin on the Arduino. To turn on the laser, the M03 code is used. The M05 code disables the laser.
(These are usually the codes to turn on the spindle (clockwise) and turn off the spindle)
The video below shows the machine engraving a vector drawing with Grbl.

Step 10: Final Results and Conclusion

Some images that the machine has engraved are above. (For the engraved photo and Arduino logo, some image processing was required before sending the bitmap to
the C sharp application).
For more images, have a look on my website: http://getburnt.weebly.com/gallery.html
Final Thoughts
Overall, I think this project was worth the time and effort. I gained a lot of knowledge that can be transferred to future projects. Probably the most useful thing I learnt is to
make sure all the parts can work together effectively - if there is a weak component, it has the ability to limit the whole machine, due to dependencies between
components. For example, the motors have to be strong enough to move the axes, but then the frame has to be strong enough to hold the motors, and so on...
There are also a few future updates that would make the machine better:
- Install a stronger laser to speed up the machine
- Add limit switches on both axes to protect the machine from crashing into itself (haven't had a crash yet, but it is inevitable without limit switches)
- Refine the C sharp program, so that larger images don't take 15min+ to process into instruction files

Image Notes
1. Guess the car
2. The actual size of this image is 12cm x 7.5cm

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Image Notes
1. Look familiar?

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Comments
30 comments Add Comment

imont says:

Dec 9, 2013. 12:59 PM REPLY

Hi, can you explain me the steeps to print raster images, please.

getburnt says:

Dec 10, 2013. 2:25 PM REPLY

Hi, if you are planning to use the software on step 8, here is a more detailed overview of the procedure:
First, you will need the Processing IDE installed on your computer (link is on step 8). Currently, I am using version 2.0.1 32-bit, with the Serial library.
(Serial doesn't work with the 64-bit version at the moment)
From Step 8, download and extract "CNC Image Program.zip" to a folder on your computer (eg C:\CNC Image Program). There should be three files in
the folder
Prepare a 24-bit bitmap file. Find a picture, convert it to black and white only (eg use GIMP / Photoshop to dither it to a 1-bit image) then save it as a 24bit bitmap.
Run the "CNC Image Program.exe" program
In the program's text box, enter the full path to your bitmap file. There is a sample bitmap (arduino.bmp) included with the program that you can try first.
The path would be something like "C:\CNC Image Program\arduino.bmp" (depending on where you put the folder)
Click "OK" and after a while, the image should be displayed by the program. The file "cncinstructions.txt" should have been created in the folder (eg
C:\CNC Image Program\cncinstructions.txt)
(If you need to run the program again, clear all .txt files in the folder)
From Step 8, download and extract "processing_sketch.zip" to somewhere on your computer (eg C:\). Run the file "textfilestreamer2.pde". The
Processing IDE should start, and ask you if it can move the file into a folder. Click yes/ok, and the .pde file will be in a new folder (eg
C:\textfilestreamer2\texfilestreamer2.pde)
In the folder, create a new folder called "data" (eg C:\textfilestreamer2\data) Copy the generated file, cncinstructions.txt, into the data folder
From Step 8, download and extract "arduino_sketch.zip" to somewhere on your computer (eg C:\). Open the .ino file and upload it to your arduino. Also,
the Arduino needs to be configured to use COM3
After all these steps, all you need to do is click run in the processing sketch. It will open a serial connection to the arduino, and begin sending
instructions. The arduino will interpret the commands and move the motors / control the laser.

rmayne says:

Nov 30, 2013. 12:12 AM REPLY

Any chance the thing will cut through aluminum? I'm looking to build an Arduino cutter myself but I work with metals a lot

dnorbury says:

Dec 1, 2013. 8:24 AM REPLY

I have a 120 watt Epilog laser and there is no way it will cut aluminum, or any other metal for that matter. I would agree that you probably need some sort
of plasma cutter for this.

stephenfitton says:

Dec 5, 2013. 3:59 PM REPLY

Approach a local laser cutting company and advise them of your amateur status coupled with your genuine interest in the subject, take photos and
examples with you. Also suggest there are others like you and they could possibly fit these jobs in between others generating a SECOND SOURCE
OF INCOME! If you are computer savvy suggest you could knock them up a internet page for free.
You will be surprised! people love genuine people

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

getburnt says:

Dec 1, 2013. 3:07 AM REPLY

My laser's a bit too weak for metals, and even the 100W laser tubes probably can't do it. A CNC plasma cutter would probably be the best solution!
There are some examples on Youtube, such as http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx5alADaTpI

Darkish says:

Dec 1, 2013. 6:07 AM REPLY

Here's a source I've found some time ago: http://www.parallax-tech.com/cutting.htm

Not sure how accurate it is, however.

bob1.618 says:

Dec 4, 2013. 10:32 AM REPLY

The third pin on those laser diodes is an optical feedback pin, which lets you set the appropriate input power. If you don't use it, you risk destroying the diode
with thermal runaway if you drive it near the rated output, or so I've heard. You can build a simple feedback supply for a few bucks more than the one shown
above. Look here for ideas: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserdps.htm.

getburnt says:

Dec 5, 2013. 12:53 AM REPLY

Thanks for the info!
When I upgrade the laser diode to a more powerful one, I'll look into using that third pin in a new laser driver circuit. I don't want to end up with very
expensive LEDs :P

mkinoma says:

Dec 2, 2013. 11:12 AM REPLY

Can you provide more detail about your results when you tried the NEMA 17 motors?
Would you be able to use smaller/faster/cheaper motors at least for the X axis if you were only moving a 45? mirror and had the laser and heatsink affixed to
the side?

getburnt says:

Dec 3, 2013. 2:02 AM REPLY

I haven't tried NEMA 17 motors in this machine, but they are probably adequate to move the axes at lower speeds. Many 3D printers use NEMA 17
motors without any issues.
When I tried NEMA 17 motors previously (in something else), I didn't have proper stepper drivers - I used a ULN2003 chip to manually switch coils on/off
through an Arduino. This was a relatively low performance way to make the motors move, so I probably didn't get the most out of those motors.
Also, I chose NEMA 23 motors because they are a bit more versatile. Stepper motors lose most of their torque at higher speeds, so stronger motors
usually have a wider range of usable speeds (when a load is applied).

regpye says:

Dec 1, 2013. 3:02 PM REPLY

I am in Australia and I have tried a couple of times to import laser diodes that are over 5mW and had then seized by Customs. The last time I was given a
warning and told that my details are now held on file. How did you manage to get the laser diode into Australia?

getburnt says:

Dec 1, 2013. 11:30 PM REPLY

At the end of the Intro page, I've added a link to the current restrictions (according to Australian Customs). Fully assembled portable lasers are prohibited
(laser pointers and pens).
"Laser modules, laser diodes and laser lighting" (and stinkbombs!) can be legally imported. So if you were to order the same laser diode/module as the
one in this instructable, Customs wouldn't be allowed to seize it, because it isn't a laser pointer. If they did consider it to be a weapon, then they would
have to class every single Blu-Ray player in the country as a weapon!
Also, if someone in Australia did import a high power laser module, and used it to create a laser pointer, then that would be illegal. I think to be
considered a laser pointer, it must be portable / handheld and battery powered. My machine isn't exactly handheld (it weighs more than it looks) and
can't run on batteries, so I think I'm safe :)

notselrach says:

Dec 1, 2013. 2:14 PM REPLY

What components do I need to modify my cnc machine to do this laser etching. Does this laser simply run on-off (which would fit my needs as I want to burn
a logo on a wooden drum head), or is there a way to interface my software (mach3) with the controller?

getburnt says:

Dec 1, 2013. 11:11 PM REPLY

Yes, the laser just turns on and off based on the input voltage to the laser driver circuit. If that pin is at 5V, the laser switches on, and if its 0V, the laser
switches off. The brightness of the laser is not controlled digitally.
The simplest solution is probably to find out how your machine sends the control signals to turn the spindle on and off. If its just a simple 0V/5V signal,
you can use that to turn the laser on and off. Then if you embed the M03 and M05 commands in your instruction file, it will turn the laser on and off as
required. Also, if the logic is reversed (5V off / 0V on), you can use a PNP transistor instead of NPN in the laser driver circuit.

rblprd says:

Dec 1, 2013. 1:50 PM REPLY

Any chance this range would etch titanium? Don't need to cut most stuff, just need to etch bits.

getburnt says:

Dec 1, 2013. 10:23 PM REPLY

It can't do anything to bare metals - unfortunately its not powerful enough. It might be possible to apply something like "TherMark"
(http://www.thermark.com/) and then engrave on it. However, this has been designed for CO2 laser cutters, which output infra-red wavelengths of light. I
don't know if that stuff works with the visible blue light from my machine.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

jiajunwang says:

Dec 1, 2013. 6:51 AM REPLY

Great project! But since the process does not involve contact (hence no force), it seems a bit unnecessary to use stepper motors as powerful as yours.

rany says:

Dec 1, 2013. 6:26 AM REPLY

Thank you for sharing with us Very nicely done ... fantabolus :) i have the materials, i will commence soon>>>>

andrew_h says:

Nov 29, 2013. 1:02 AM REPLY

How did you go getting the laser 1.5W modules into Australia or did you buy them locally somehow? I've got a chinese CNC machine that i've been thinking
about adding a laser engraver to for ages - This would be an easy mod...

getburnt says:

Nov 29, 2013. 10:40 PM REPLY

Yeah, I had the same concerns before I bough the lasers from the US. When I checked the Customs restrictions, my understanding was that only fully
assembled portable lasers (eg those flashlight / torch types) are illegal. It should be legal to import the laser modules that I've used because they can't
actually work until you add extra electronics.
If you're unsure, you could also check with the seller to see if they've encountered any problems delivering to Australia.

recwap says:

Nov 29, 2013. 5:25 AM REPLY

nice work! one day maybe will build my own laser cutter :)

jonathondk says:

Nov 28, 2013. 7:14 AM REPLY

Lovin' it! I've been wanting to make a laser cutter for a while now. Your instructable is great! Thanks for posting the price/parts list, that really helps me get
my baseline in place. I'm wanting to use a stronger laser so I can cut through wood though. Thanks for your work!

getburnt says:

Nov 28, 2013. 11:42 PM REPLY

Thanks and good luck with your laser cutter!

xammax says:

Nov 28, 2013. 5:13 AM REPLY

Great work. Do you think it would be possible to engrave PCB material? Would be a great and more silent way instead of a classical cnc mill.

getburnt says:

Nov 28, 2013. 11:38 PM REPLY

Thanks! Do you just mean marking the surface for labels? I haven't tried it, but it might be possible. If you mean preparing a PCB for etching, that might
also be possible. There are some instructables that use a laser cutter for masking the tracks (by cutting/burning away a layer of paint), before etching.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Printed-Circuit-Boards-PCB-using-the-Laser-Cutte/ and http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-PCB-Prototyping-usinga-Laser-Cutter/

als_liahona says:

Nov 27, 2013. 9:20 PM REPLY

Very nice! Any chance you can post a complete parts list and where you obtained the parts?
Also, about how much would it cost to make such a machine?
Thx!

getburnt says:

Nov 28, 2013. 2:31 AM REPLY

Thanks for the comment! I've added a parts list to the intro page, with suppliers and prices.
Most of the parts were bought online (eBay). The total cost for the machine is about $1300 AUD. The ballscrews and their end supports were a bit pricey
($400), but I think they were worth it for their performance.

bigswap says:

Nov 26, 2013. 9:47 AM REPLY

grenat work..will improve dame un few days..thxxx

M3G says:
Very impressive!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Engraver/

Nov 26, 2013. 7:35 AM REPLY