Tips & Techniques

Safety First

Wear a dust mask while working, especially if the dust blower is used instead of a vacuum
Wear a face mask when cutting glass or metal
Wear eye and ear protection when working with power tools
It is tempting to opt not to use eye gear when you are working with a scroll saw. Be safe and err on the side of
caution
Never allow fingers to come near any moving blades or cutters
When cutting very small pieces of wood, use a cardboard backing to help you control the wood and ensure that
your fingers are away from the blade
Wear appropriate attire, no jewellery, loose hair, sleeves or ties
Do not allow your mind to wander or be distracted when using power tools or sharp objects. Most accidents in
the workshop happen when a woodworker is tired and his or her attention is focused elsewhere
Never work under the influence of drugs, alcohol or medicine
Above all, never work when tired, in a hurry, or not in the mood. Use common sense at all times
Children should only be allowed to use a scroll saw under supervision
Ensure the work area is well ventilated. It is preferable to connect a vacuum or dust extractor to the extraction
port
During cutting, only remove dust and chips when the machine is switched off
In case of a power failure return the power switch to the OFF position

Saw Preparation
Make certain to first read and review the owners manual and observe all of the safety precautions relative to the use of
the scroll saw.

The saw is placed on a stand or bench. A heavy welded stand is best as it helps to absorb any vibration. Your saw and
stand should be placed on a solid surface. The saw might tend to be noisy and vibrate on a wooden floor. If you prefer
to sit while you cut, choose a comfortable stool at an appropriate height.

To install your blade, make sure the teeth face you and point downward. A blade installed backwards wont cut wood
and an upside down blade will pick the wood up off the table bed and slap it back down again. You will notice sawdust
on the top surface of your work piece, instead of the bottom, if the blade is upside down. With very fine teeth, it is hard
to see the direction of the teeth simply run your index finger lightly up and down along the front of the blade (with the
motor OFF), to make sure the teeth are pointing down. For proper blade tension, insert the blade and turn the tension
knob three-quarters of a turn past the point of resistance. A blade that is too loose will not cut a straight pattern line,
and a blade that is too tight will break.

For most projects it is necessary to make cuts with the saw table set square to the blade. Use a small square or
protractor to make and check this adjustment. The factory calibrations of the blade-tilt scales of most scroll saws are
difficult to read and the majority of them are not accurate. Make sure you do this check regularly, especially if you
occasionally cut on an angle.

Most saws have a dust blower that blows the dust towards the scroller. A fan can be placed on the left side of the saw
to blow the dust to the right and away from you. It is preferable to connect a dust extractor or vacuum to the extraction
port. Remove the blower tube from the back of the bellows and insert it in the extraction port hole. Although a dust
extractor can be noisy, it is an excellent way to keep the dust down.

Material Selection
Wood products suitable for scroll sawing include various solid woods and wood sheet materials like plywood and
Medium Density Fibreboard (supawood). Particle board (chip board) is not suitable for scroll sawing. Selecting the type
of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project.

Hardwoods come in a variety of species, colours and grain patterns, and are more attractive than plywood. However,
they are more expensive and also time consuming, as they require more sanding and hardwoods are more likely to
warp.

Plywood, on the other hand, is less expensive, requires less sanding, and comes in a variety of standard thicknesses.
It is also less likely to develop cracks or warp. The commercial grades of ply often have voids in-between the layers,
making it less ideal for scrolling purchase the best quality plywood available.

Supawood (MDF) is stable, less expensive, easy to cut and suitable for painted or stained projects.

I like to use Imbuia, Maple, African Mahogany and Blonde Mahogany and have been fortunate to work with exotic
woods such asBrazilian Cherry, Purpleheart and Zebrawood. Oak, Cherry and Rose wood char easily and you need to
slow down your saw and change blades more often when cutting these woods.

For a beginner scroller, I would suggest woods like Jacaranda, Red cedar and Poplar, which cut easily and finish well.
Softwood likeClear Pine is also a good choice if you choose to paint your project. Be sure the wood you choose is knotfree. Try to obtain off- cuts of solid wood, plywood and MDF/supawood from a furniture manufacturer or cabinet maker
while you practise your skills on the scroll saw.

Hardwood finishes beautifully. Always try to find and use wood with a nice grain pattern and a lot of character.
Regardless of how expensive the wood is, your finished project will be seen and felt for years to come, so use the best
material you can afford when making a special project.

Paper, fabric, steel, brass, plastic, stone and even glass can be cut with the scroll saw (with specialised diamondtipped blades)

Material Selection
Wood products suitable for scroll sawing include various solid woods and wood sheet materials like plywood and
Medium Density Fibreboard (supawood). Particle board (chip board) is not suitable for scroll sawing. Selecting the type
of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project.

Hardwoods come in a variety of species, colours and grain patterns, and are more attractive than plywood. However,
they are more expensive and also time consuming, as they require more sanding and hardwoods are more likely to
warp.

Plywood, on the other hand, is less expensive, requires less sanding, and comes in a variety of standard thicknesses.
It is also less likely to develop cracks or warp. The commercial grades of ply often have voids in-between the layers,
making it less ideal for scrolling purchase the best quality plywood available.

Supawood (MDF) is stable, less expensive, easy to cut and suitable for painted or stained projects.

I like to use Imbuia, Maple, African Mahogany and Blonde Mahogany and have been fortunate to work with exotic
woods such asBrazilian Cherry, Purpleheart and Zebrawood. Oak, Cherry and Rose wood char easily and you need to
slow down your saw and change blades more often when cutting these woods.

For a beginner scroller, I would suggest woods like Jacaranda, Red cedar and Poplar, which cut easily and finish well.
Softwood likeClear Pine is also a good choice if you choose to paint your project. Be sure the wood you choose is knotfree. Try to obtain off- cuts of solid wood, plywood and MDF/supawood from a furniture manufacturer or cabinet maker
while you practise your skills on the scroll saw.

Hardwood finishes beautifully. Always try to find and use wood with a nice grain pattern and a lot of character.
Regardless of how expensive the wood is, your finished project will be seen and felt for years to come, so use the best
material you can afford when making a special project.

Paper, fabric, steel, brass, plastic, stone and even glass can be cut with the scroll saw (with specialised diamondtipped blades)

Before you Cut

WOOD PREPARATION
Cut the wood to the approximate size required for your pattern. Sand the wood before applying the pattern, using a
palm sander or orbital sander. This reduces the amount of hand sanding to be done later as well as the risk of breaking
fragile pieces when sanding after cutting. Work from 50 grit (roughest), then 80 grit, on to 120 grit and 180 grit through
to 320 grit sandpaper (finest). If the wood is planed and has no mill marks or blemishes, the sanding stages with very
rough sandpaper are not necessary. Remove sanding dust with a clean paint brush, lint free cloth or air compressor.

APPLY THE PATTERN

Photocopy the pattern, enlarging or reducing it to the desired size. Use scissors to remove the excess paper to within
about 1/8 / 3 mm of the actual pattern. Cover the surface of the work piece with masking tape or clear packaging tape,
to allow for easy removal of the pattern after cutting. Apply temporary bond spray adhesive simply spray a very light
mist onto the back of the pattern copy (do not spray it on the wood). Wait 10 to 30 seconds and hand-press the pattern
to the surface of the wood. It should maintain contact during sawing. Glue stick does not hold the pattern as well as
spray glue, but can be used for more simple patterns without many inside cuts. Alternatively use carbon paper and a
stylus (or old ballpoint pen) to transfer simple patterns without a lot of detail onto the wood. Attach one end of the
pattern to the wood with masking tape to keep it from moving during transfer. To prevent tear-out underneath when
cutting a project, attach some carton paper with thin double sided tape in a few places. Cover the carton with brown
packaging tape.

DRILLING
Some projects require making inside cuts. Simply drill small holes through the work piece in the areas indicated on the
pattern. Thread the blade through the hole in the work piece and reattach it to the saw. In a large waste area it is best
to drill the starter hole close to a corner, rather than in the middle, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the
pattern line. Always use a piece of off-cut wood underneath the work piece to drill into this also prevents tear-out at
the bottom of the project. Remove burrs created by drilling the holes use a scraper blade along the grain of the work
piece at a slight angle or use sandpaper. If the burrs are not removed, your work piece will not be flush on the saw
table and it this will prevent it from moving easily on the table during cutting.

BLADE SELECTION
Use a suitable blade as dictated by the wood thickness, amount of cutting detail and sharp radius turns required. Do
not attempt to get extra use from a dull blade. Immediately change to a new blade at the first signs of charring in the
cut. Dull blades tend to wander from the line of cut and make inclined cuts that are not vertical. Avoid backing up and re
cutting an inside line if you happen to wander away from the line of cut, as this causes untidy cutting results. Slow
down the speed of your saw when cutting fragile parts in the pattern and use a zero clearance insert to reduce the risk
of breaking these parts. Use a piece of carton or a business card to make a zero clearance insert drill a small blade
entry hole in it and tape to your saw table with some masking tape. Allow the blade to do the cutting; do not apply too
much feeding pressure by forcing the wood into the blade.

Before you Cut

WOOD PREPARATION
Cut the wood to the approximate size required for your pattern. Sand the wood before applying the pattern, using a
palm sander or orbital sander. This reduces the amount of hand sanding to be done later as well as the risk of breaking
fragile pieces when sanding after cutting. Work from 50 grit (roughest), then 80 grit, on to 120 grit and 180 grit through
to 320 grit sandpaper (finest). If the wood is planed and has no mill marks or blemishes, the sanding stages with very
rough sandpaper are not necessary. Remove sanding dust with a clean paint brush, lint free cloth or air compressor.

APPLY THE PATTERN

Photocopy the pattern, enlarging or reducing it to the desired size. Use scissors to remove the excess paper to within
about 1/8 / 3 mm of the actual pattern. Cover the surface of the work piece with masking tape or clear packaging tape,
to allow for easy removal of the pattern after cutting. Apply temporary bond spray adhesive simply spray a very light
mist onto the back of the pattern copy (do not spray it on the wood). Wait 10 to 30 seconds and hand-press the pattern
to the surface of the wood. It should maintain contact during sawing. Glue stick does not hold the pattern as well as
spray glue, but can be used for more simple patterns without many inside cuts. Alternatively use carbon paper and a
stylus (or old ballpoint pen) to transfer simple patterns without a lot of detail onto the wood. Attach one end of the
pattern to the wood with masking tape to keep it from moving during transfer. To prevent tear-out underneath when
cutting a project, attach some carton paper with thin double sided tape in a few places. Cover the carton with brown
packaging tape.

DRILLING
Some projects require making inside cuts. Simply drill small holes through the work piece in the areas indicated on the
pattern. Thread the blade through the hole in the work piece and reattach it to the saw. In a large waste area it is best
to drill the starter hole close to a corner, rather than in the middle, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the
pattern line. Always use a piece of off-cut wood underneath the work piece to drill into this also prevents tear-out at
the bottom of the project. Remove burrs created by drilling the holes use a scraper blade along the grain of the work
piece at a slight angle or use sandpaper. If the burrs are not removed, your work piece will not be flush on the saw
table and it this will prevent it from moving easily on the table during cutting.

BLADE SELECTION
Use a suitable blade as dictated by the wood thickness, amount of cutting detail and sharp radius turns required. Do
not attempt to get extra use from a dull blade. Immediately change to a new blade at the first signs of charring in the
cut. Dull blades tend to wander from the line of cut and make inclined cuts that are not vertical. Avoid backing up and re
cutting an inside line if you happen to wander away from the line of cut, as this causes untidy cutting results. Slow
down the speed of your saw when cutting fragile parts in the pattern and use a zero clearance insert to reduce the risk
of breaking these parts. Use a piece of carton or a business card to make a zero clearance insert drill a small blade
entry hole in it and tape to your saw table with some masking tape. Allow the blade to do the cutting; do not apply too
much feeding pressure by forcing the wood into the blade.