O C TO B E R 2 01 5

RAISING
THE CREATIVE GENIUS
OF PAUL MITCHELL'S
LUCIE DOUGHTY

W H AT S O N O U R R A DA R T H I S M O N T H

in

BRIEF
CULTURE
CLASH

ND Style Director
Jan Arnold calls
Contradictions, the
companys fall 2015 color
collection trend, a clash
of glamour and grunge.
To bring the collection
to life, Arnold teamed up
with photographer and
American Crew Founder
David Raccuglia to shoot
a series of stills and a oneminute video, which she
shared exclusively with us.
Our goal was to offset the
glamorous beauty image
with the gritty grunge side
of the trend, says Arnold,
who asked CNDs Education
Ambassador Shelena
Robinson to create the
looks on these four pages.
Look closely: His nails
are painted with Vinylux
Weekly Polish in Black
Pool. Watch how her nails
become gradually more
embellished. Check out the
video at americansalon.
com/cnd. Marianne

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID RACCUGLIA

Dougherty, Editor in Chief

October 2015 americansalon.com

35

in

BRIEF

THE VISION
Boy meets girl who
has special abilities
that allow her to
time-lapse her nails
into weapons. With
a clash of lightening,
her skeleton appears,
and her nails begin to
morph into dynamic
talons. Nails go from
grungy and short
to fabulous and
dangerous in the
blink of an eye. Here,
short, nude nails are
lightly coated with
CND Brisa Gel to add
a little length and a
soft oval shape.

36 americansalon.com

October 2015

in

BRIEF

EDGY AND ECLECTIC

Longer, more exaggerated almonds
were coated with Shellac in City Scape.
Gunmetal foil was pressed to the moons
before the topcoat was applied. The
look: grunge bordering on glamour.

38 americansalon.com

October 2015

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I D E A S T H AT I N S P I R E S U C C E S S

BUSINESS

YVES DURIF TAKES A LEAP IN HIS BEAUTIFULLY

APPOINTED SALON WITHIN THE CARLYLE HOTEL. READ
ON FOR MORE DESIGN DETAILS FROM FOUR NOTABLE
SALONS ACROSS THE COUNTRY.

October 2015 americansalon.com

99

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BUSINESS
SETTING THE

M O O D

Its the little things that can really pull

together a particular vibe. These salons

have paid attention to detail and then some
in creating an ambience in line with their
brand philosophy.

THE YVES DURIF SALON IS

COMPOSED of a trio of areasthe

YVES DURIF
IN THE CARLYLE HOTEL, NYC

ESTABLISHED 2008
SPACE 1,200-sq. ft.

Cutting Room, the Color Lab and

the Salon Privall housed on a
single floor within the Carlyle Hotel
in New York City to impart the
brands sense of friendly luxury.
The Cutting Room, designed by
Warren Red, speaks to my modern
and playful aesthetic sensibilities and
provides a high energy, client-focused
atmosphere. The lighting and mirrors
cast a particularly complimentary
light on clients, and the workstations

are devoid of clutter. The Color

Lab is cocoon-like and free from
the hum of blowdryers, allowing for
pleasant conversation, says Yves
Durif, celebrity stylist and owner
of his eponymous salon. Along
with Sisley makeup applications
and products available to clients,
Aromatherapy Liquid Hand Soap
and Red Flower candles in Italian
Blood Orange, Indian Jasmine and
a specially created scent called
Wanderlust stock the ladies and
mens rooms.

ANDY LECOMPTE SALON

IN WEST HOLLYWOOD, CA

FOR ANDY LECOMPTE, celebrity

stylist and owner of the Andy

Lecompte Salon in West Hollywood,
it was all about creating an elegant
home where colorists, stylists
and clients could come to receive
excellent five-star service. Our
versatile and talented staff provides
personalized service and caters to
meeting individual needs by getting
to know the client and finding them
the right fit in a stylist and colorist.
We wanted the salon to feel like
home, as a place where the team
is a family that works together and
where clients feel comfortable to
express their needs and wants and
enjoy the environment, he says. We
built custom cabinet stations with
elegant marble countertops, picked
homey furniture for the reception

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October 2015

area and used dining chairs in the

processing area. We wanted the salon
to be minimal and clean, yet still feel
cozy. We also wanted to add elegant
touches to the salon by serving
coffee and tea on vintage perfume
trays and using lovely soaps, lotions
and candles [from Compagnie de
Provence] in the restrooms.

The reception area imparts a clean,

minimalist feel, but still gives off a
warm and inviting vibe.

ESTABLISHED 2008
SPACE 2,500-sq. ft.

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BUSINESS

SETTING THE MOOD

ART + SCIENCE SALON

IN EVANSTON, IL

PAUL T. WILSON IS AT THE HELM

of the Art + Science empire,

which spans across four locations
throughout the greater Chicago
area. In trying to impart his
brands philosophy of a welcoming
environment free of attitude but full
of confidence and energy, Wilson
was deliberate in the design of his
salons. Our salons reflect a feeling
of artisanal craft, utilizing reclaimed
materials as a nod to mid-century
modern design. Materials consist of a
mixture of wood, steel, glass, stainless
steel, classic marble and stone. Clients
feel comfortable and know exactly
where to go, as the path to the front
desk is directly across from the
entrance in all four of our locations,
says Wilson. Our goal was to develop
an environment that fosters creativity

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October 2015

for both the clients and our stylists.

The open floor plans, the addition
of the barbershops, and the lighting
and furniture design all speak to an
urban, yet refined vibe that helps
make the Art + Science experience
truly unique. The open, naturally lit
space of the salon imparts a modern
feel, while classic touches like
Diptyque candles and hand soaps
in the washrooms add a sense of
refinement.

Touches of reclaimed wood

juxtaposed with modern elements
like the industrial chandelier speak
to the salons working philosophy
of urban artisans.

ESTABLISHED 1989
SPACE 3,400-sq. ft.

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BUSINESS

SETTING THE MOOD

MOORE + MOORE
IN MARBLEHEAD, MA

THE MOORE + MOORE SALON in

Marblehead, MA, is a living reflection

of founder Stephen Moores penchant
for clean lines and the contemporary.
I wanted a simple, clean and focused
environment it should be all about
the clients. My salon is my clients
home away from home, so it was
necessary to keep out any distractions
to make it spotless and comfortable
for them, says Moore. The British
hairdresser traces this influence to his
early days working in 1970s Mayfair
and Sassoon, which emphasized
clean environments, beautiful lines
and precision to match the hair. To
further this, the look of the salon was
made to feel like an English gallery
with an LCD screen on the wall to
display organic, abstract images rather
than wall art to keep from looking
too cluttered and busy as well as Jo
Malone candles and Pecksniff hand
soaps in the lavatories and only
British magazines in the waiting area.
Maureen Sheen, Senior Editor

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October 2015

ESTABLISHED 1994
SPACE 1,200-sq. ft.

The sleek and geometric furniture

within the salon touches back to
Moores preference for the clean
and modern.

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BUSINESS
Left: A father learns
how to braid his
daughters hair.
Below: The ponytail
is perfected by dad.

SOUND ADVICE
Arnold Zegarelli is Director
of Education at Izzazu
Salon Spa and Serrata in
Pittsburgh where hes been
dispensing sound advice
to help hairdressers become
more successful for years.

SUCCESS CAPSULES FOR

POSITIVE ACHIEVERS

1
2

DADDYS
LIT TLE G I R L S
At Envogue Salon in Denver, dads bond with
their daughters by learning to do their hair.

CALLI HUEBL-BODILIS CAME UP with the idea for Beer and Braidsa

special father-daughter hairstyling class that she now offers at Envogue

Salon in Denver, CO, after her husband Stephan approached her with
the idea. A male co-worker of his could not figure out how to style his
daughters hair for school and was late to a meeting, which triggered a
light-bulb moment for Huebl-Bodilis. I realized there really was a need
for this class because dads these days are more hands-on than ever
before, she says.
Huebl-Bodilis offers Beer and Braids classes every six to eight weeks
on Friday evenings in the salon, which closes just for the event so the
dads feel more comfortable. The hour-long, one-on-one lessonseach
dad gets his own stylistcost $55 and include three basic looks: a
ponytail, braid and a ballet bun. After the coaching, the dads get to
create their own look, and at the end of the class, the stylists judge the
hairstyles. I believe all guys like a little competition, says Huebl-Bodilis.
The winner receives a six-pack of beer from a local brewery, but all
of the dads go home with a goody bag that includes Unite 7Seconds
Leave-In Conditioner, The Wet Brush and a packet of barrettes. The
events have been so popularThe dads leave with more confidence,
says Huebl-Bodilisthat the class is booked up through the end of 2015.
As for the father-daughter bonding that takes place, well, that was icing
on the cake.Kamala Kirk, West Coast Editor

106 americansalon.com

October 2015

3
4
5
6

Create win-win situations.

Make your cause bigger than

your ego.

Work for progress, not

perfection.

The only way to get the best of

an argument is to avoid it.

Use a priority checklist.

Recognize, accept and try

to improve on your own
shortcomings.
7 Encourage others to talk about
themselves.
8 Be a good listener.
9 Make the other person feel
important, and do it sincerely.
10 Show respect for the other
persons opinion. Never say,
Youre wrong. If you are
wrong, admit it quickly and
emphatically.
11 Begin with praise and honest
appreciation. Dont criticize,
condemn or complain.
12 Call attention to other peoples
mistakes indirectly. Let the
other person save face.
13 Make requests, dont give
orders.
14 Picture what you want to
achieve, not what you want to
avoid.
15 Become genuinely interested
in other people. Smile, and
remember that a persons
name is to that person the
sweetest and most important
sound in any language.

BUSINESS
Far left: Candy Shaw
Ravishing Reds collection
balayaged small sections of
dark brown for a low-light
effect. Left: Painting hair
while having clients stand
up is how this caramel
balayage was captured.
Shaw says it cuts painting
time in half and helps give
the perfect angle to have a
smooth brush stroke.

PAINT BY

NUMBERS

When Candy Shaw said goodbye to foil

highlighting and hello to balayage, she

tripled the number of clients on her book.

HAIRSTYLING LEGACY Candy Shaw, who took over the reigns as owner of

Jamison Shaw Hairdressers in Atlanta, GA, after purchasing the salon from her
father 15 years agolearned a French highlighting technique while apprenticing
in salons in Europe more than 20 years ago. Most of us had never heard of
balayage back then, but its red-hot right now. Shaw has created an Americanized
version thats easier to learn and enables stylists to book two to three times as
many clients in one day. Balayage is lightening fast, says Shaw. Foils take 30
to 45 minutes, while balayage takes only 10 to 20. It lets us work smarter, not
harder. Think of it as giving yourself a well-deserved raise. Shaw also created
The Balay Box, which she calls a complete balayage class in a box. Inside is
everything you need to learn to do balayage, including SUNLIGHTS Professionnel
Balayage Lightener, a versatile formula that is engineered to work with any crme
developer or color line. Shaw is now able to see up to 35 clients per day, spending
most of her time exactly where she wants: behind the chair. K.K.

HOUSE OF

CARDS

FANTASTIC 4

CANDYS TOP TIPS

1

Invest in the right

lightener and tools.

Commit to proper
education and practice.

Keep your workspace

clean and organized. A
messy workspace leads
to messy results.

Have realistic
expectations about
what balayage is
capable of achieving.
That way, youre never
disappointed.

Nikki Bala thought her dog Samy was so

cute that she put him on her business cards.

When Nikki Bala, owner of The Fig On Third Salon in Los Angeles, caught
her Pomeranian sticking his head out from under a blanket, she had one
thought: It looks like Samy is wearing a wig. That thought was quickly
followed by another: Samy should be on my business cards. Bala then took
it upon herself to take various photos of Samy wearing a styling cape.
Some of the photos, like the one shown here, ended up on her business cards, which have attracted new customers.
People always take the cards just because theyre cute, Bala says. Its great because they share them with other
people, which leads to a conversation about where they get their hair done. Bala had the cards printed online at
vistaprint.com on standard card stock so theyd have an old-school look in line with the salons throwback feel.
Before giving their card to a client, hairdressers write their names on the back next to the word STYLIST. Says Bala,
It adds a more personal touch. K.K

108 americansalon.com

October 2015

PHOTOGRAPHY: REBECCA WARD PHOTO (HOUSE OF CARDS); CANDY_SHAW ANZHELICA (PAINT BY NUMBERS)

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BUSINESS
NEW YORK STATE

OF MIND

BEN AHARON THREW A WHOPPER of a party this summer

to announce the grand opening of the first, but certainly not
the last, Matrix Inspiration Salon in the country. Located in
Huntington, New York, Salon Mayan boasts an impressive Matrix
Colorinsider color bar that brings color out of the dispensary and
into the open. Matrix gives us everything we need to connect
with existing and potential clients as well as overall support for
our salon and staff, says Aharon. Im really looking forward to
continuing as part of the Matrix family, growing this salon and
opening new locations in the future. Clients mixed and mingled
with members of the Huntington Chamber of Commerce, Matrix
Vice President of Business Development Gail Cohen and Matrix
General Manager Paul Schiraldi. Reality TV star Kelly Bensimon
also toured the salon and gave it nothing but rave reviews.M.D.

SALON

COACHING 101

TERRIS TIPS FOR COACHING LIKE A PRO

TERRI COWAN, WHO JOINED

2. PRIME TIME Do the hours of the salon work for the guest and the

Professional Salon Concepts in

1991 and coaches salon owners to
be good leaders, recently spoke
at Paul Mitchell rEvolution about
the importance of dedicating more
time to better service, business
improvements and technical
education, which will result in a
successful salon with satisfied
clients and staff. These are all crucial
to future success, because as Cowan
says, Todays performance is
tomorrows traffic. K.K.

1.

MANAGE TRAFFIC Are we pushing our stylists beyond their means

by having too many clients assigned to one person? We must know
when each stylist has enough clients to be fully committed.
business? Do the operation hours of the salon allow room for leadership?

3. ENHANCEMENT AREAS ONGOING Develop your systems, services

and people.

4. DIALOGUE CAN SET YOU APART Choosing the right wordsmy pleasure,
professional recommendationcan make a world of difference and
even inspire your client to book more services on the spot.

5. COLLEGE COACH MENTALITY Study how they think, scout staff and

coach. These guys never get comfortable developing and positioning

their team.

6. RINSE AND REPEAT Ask yourself every so often: What is working? Why is
it working? And if something isnt working, change it.

7. CELEBRATE AND RESPOND Your leadership through looking at the stats of

the business should have you celebrate or respond. Always celebrate the
successes and the reasons, and respond immediately to the areas that
need to be addressed.

T H E R E S A N A P P F O R T H AT

FOR The stylist

BEAUTYNOW

WHAT Appointments made easy. The BeautyNow app integrates real-time booking
with a salons or spas already existing appointment system. With just a few taps a
client can see whats available and book instantly no phone call necessary.
HOW First, select the salon and desired treatment. Second, the BeautyNow app displays
nearby salons and spas that have an open appointment for your requested time. Third,
the booking is confirmed. www.beautynowapp.comKelsey Murray, Digital Editor
110 americansalon.com

October 2015

introducing

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developed in italy by Europes top color experts,

this easy-to-use permanent hair color ofers
the perfect fusion of performance and reliability.
DYESMART System
Ensures maximum
color penetration and
greater longevity

Pure XG Protection
System
Leaves hair shiny
and healthy

100% Gray Coverage

incredible coverage,
even on resistant
gray hair

to get the color XG in your salon, contact your John Paul Mitchell Systems distributor. PaulMitchellPro.com