National Geographic Traveller India - March 2016

MARCH 2016 `150 VOL.
ISSUE 9
SUMMER
SPECIAL
SNAPSHOTS from
SOUTHEAST ASIA
PHILIPPINES
NATURE CALLS
MALAYSIA
MAGIC KINGDOM
THAILAND
NORTH TO SOUTH
SOUTH KOREA
ART OF ZEN
SINGAPORE
WILD WAYS
MACAU
BEYOND CASINOS
BOTSWANA THE LAST SANCTUARY SANCHI CENTRE OF THE EARTH
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
MARCH 2016
CONTENTS
Vol 4 Issue 9
SUMMER SPECIAL
A chance encounter with

Malaysian royalty leads to the
neon-coloured sultanate of
Johor, the southernmost tip of
Asias mainland
By John Krich
Photographs by Justin
Guariglia
100
Koh Khai Nok, Thailand
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | MARCH 2016
90
ITS A
WONDERFUL
WORLD
Sunny, laid-back Bohol has

lovable creatures, serene
beaches, and magical hills: Four
ways to navigate this cluster of
Filipino islands
By Kamakshi Ayyar
100
YOUR OWN
PRIVATE
THAILAND
Gorgeous stupas, lip-smacking

street food, and dreamy, white
sand beaches. Thailand has
never been this alluring,
or accessible
By Margot Bigg
ATHIT PERAWONGMETHA/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES
78
JEWEL OF
MALAYSIA
126
112
CREATURES GREAT
AND SMALL
From meeting shy pandas to frisky

squirrel monkeys and endangered tapirs,
a visit to Singapore Zoo alters
perceptions and triggers joy
By Rumela Basu
118
JOURNEYS
A temple stay in South Korea dips into

the countrys Buddhist heritage and
questions the desires of normal life
By Anjana
BOTSWANA: THE LAST

SANCTUARY
IN A MONKS SHOES
126
When it comes to protecting

Africas endangered species, this
southern landlocked country leads
the conservation pack
By Costas Christ
Photographs by Aaron Huey
PAUL SOUDERS/LATITUDE/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
Chobe River, Botswana
22
58
MARCH 2016 `150 VOL. 4
ISSUE 9
SUMMER
SPECIAL
18 Clan Rules
What takes an agnostic to places of the pious?
N AV I G AT E
22 Culture
Cash in the casino chips and explore another side

of Macau
Detour
30
Off Sikkims tourist route, living like a local

in Kewzing
36 Sea-weathered yet well preserved, Lunenburg is
Canadas coastal gem
Cinemascape
38 Tracing spies, lovers, and rendezvous in the

towering Swiss Alps
Tigers and other stars of the jungle in Madhya

Pradeshs Bandhavgarh National Park
64 The Souvenir
Do holiday pictures ever match up to the

destinations memories?
20 Crew Cut
58 National Park
Six things for your pantry from a Kolkata trip

SNAPSHOTS from
SOUTHEAST ASIA
PHILIPPINES
NATURE CALLS
MALAYSIA
MAGIC KINGDOM
THAILAND
NORTH TO SOUTH
SOUTH KOREA
ART OF ZEN
SINGAPORE
WILD WAYS
MACAU
BEYOND CASINOS
BOTSWANA THE LAST SANCTUARY SANCHI CENTRE OF THE EARTH
On The COver
In this image,
photographer Felix Hug
captures the limpid
waters at Maya Bay in
Thailands Phi Phi Islands.
The islands are part of a
national park, and have
excellent snorkelling and
water sport opportunities.
Decorated long-tail boats
or reua hang yao are often
used to travel between
the various islands of this
small archipelago.
66 Heritage
Inside Ubuds Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
68 The Insider
Breathing easy in the magical, hopeful city of

Los Angeles
74 Ecotourism
Conservation success stories that benefit the

planetand us travellers
GET GOING
138 Adventure
On a tramping trail through New Zealands

backcountry
143 Active Holiday
Four ways to feel the thunder of Niagara Falls
44 Stunning locales where the latest Star Wars film
came alive
SHORT BREAKS
46 Sporting Spirit
From Bhopal
Finding Pataudi, Austen, and undiluted tradition of

cricket in Winchester
50 Book Extract
A new book celebrates the joy of road-tripping

around the world
54 Local Flavour
Following an olives journey from farm to table

in Italy
10
146 Science, love, and Sanchis reputation as the

centre of the world
REGULARS
14 Editors Note
16 Notebook
154 Inspire
160 Strange Planet
Stay
152
Restored frescoes at a heritage haveli evoke

Shekhawatis past
153 Solitude and other small joys at a resort

in Bhopal
MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (CHURCH), DHRITIMAN MUKHERJEE (TIGER),

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Editors Note |
N I LOU F E R V EN KATRA M A N
dont know Urdu. I dont know much about

ghazals. I wish I did.
Many years ago, I heard an acquaintance
recite two lines from a Mirza Ghalib ghazal
which immediately struck me as very beautiful. I had made him repeat it, and quickly
scribbled down (in English) what I thought it said.
Since then, Ive sought out a more reliable version
of that verse and translations of it. The words run:
hasad se dil agar afsurda hai, garm-e-tamasha ho,
ki chashm-e-tang shayad kasrat-e-nazzara se va ho
Sometimes
it takes a
journey to
gain new
perspective,
to remind
ourselves
that plenty of
awesomeness
still exists
If youre feeling oppressed by negative thoughts, go

see the world,
The spectacle you encounter will perhaps open up
your narrow vision.
While Mirza Ghalibs poetry may have many nuances, layers, and much subtext, I find plenty of
depth in the simplest translations of this ghazal.
Ive been thinking of this verse lately, as friends
and colleagues have been assailed by confusing
times and a variety of not so pleasant thoughts
and feelings. Sometimes it takes a journey to gain
new perspective, to remind ourselves that there is
plenty of awesomeness still around us.
Ghalibs advice has stood me in good stead so
often, I recommend it to others. Years ago when
I was at university, I was at a crossroads, terribly
conflicted about the choices I had to make. Did I
want to pursue another degree? Where did I want
to live? What career path did I want to follow?
Thats when I took a week-long solo trip to British
Columbia in Canada. While I cant say I enjoyed the
solo travel experience as much as many others Ive

met, I learned a lot about myself. Exploring a world
I knew nothing of opened up my mind to possibilities I hadnt considered. My confusion cleared. I
was able to think straight and make a decision Ive
never regretted.
Over the years, Ive seen this happen again and
again. When I am at a challenging moment in my
life, going away from the familiar, taking a break to
somewhere new and different, often provides the
clarity needed. Looking at the world with fresh eyes
makes me look afresh at myself.
On a trip to Ladakh a few years ago, I was bogged
down by a few narrow, negative thoughts. Sitting on
the banks of Pangong Tso Lake, I watched a group
of Changpa nomads walking with heavy loads,
patched-up shoes on their feet, and a smile for me
as they passed by. At that instant I thought of how
incredibly hard their life must be in the bitter cold
of the high altitude they live in. In my notebook,
that night, I wrote that what struck me most was
their adaptability. To live in that harsh environment
requires a level of physical and spiritual flexibility
and adjustment that most of us city folks would find
difficult. For me that unlocked a hidden window to
myself. It helped me come to the realisation that
if I adapted and found the strength to change my
way of thinking, I could quickly get past my negative thoughts. Just realising how lucky I was to be in
that wondrous land changed my outlook that day.
Maybe I didnt learn adaptability from the Changpa
people, but a chance encounter with them in their
surreal landscape certainly made me examine my
own shortcomings.
A few weeks ago I was in Egypt. It was a muchneeded trip after a particularly rough few weeks at
work. On the fourth day, I awoke at 6.30 a.m. and
stepped out onto the balcony of my hotel room in
Luxor, just as the faintest light was appearing in
the sky. As dawn broke over the Nile and the sun
lit up the Valley of the Kings in a misty orange and
brown, the worries crowding my brain fell away. As I
watched numerous hot-air balloons gliding through
the sky, I concluded that I just hadnt given myself
the chance to take a breath. At that moment, thats
all I really needed to do.
So every once in a while, when things arent all
that hunky-dory, I try to listen to Ghalibs advice
and my extension of what he may have meant. I
open myself to embracing a new environment, to
finding new perspectives on the road, or just letting old ones disappear. When the going gets tough,
travelling can perhaps offer up a way to get going.
OUR
MISSION
Luxor, Egypt
14
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amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.
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Holiday Planning
At our February Meetup
in Mumbai, travel junkie
Yogi Shah, entrepreneur
Munni Hannant, and multigenerational holiday planner
Lisa Sadanah chatted with
NGT Indias Deputy Editor
Neha Dara about how to plan
a getaway. Some tips from the
experts and the audience.
Websites like Skyscanner
offer good deals on airfares
and hotels. Use apps like
Splittr to divide accounts on
the go for large groups.
love on the road
inside wieliczka mine
An amateur climber in the

Italian Alps, embarks on the
quest for the home of the
legendary (and infamous)
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Sidin Vadukut shares his ribtickling take on the pleasures

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LETTER OF THE MONTH
On a High
My love for trekking started when I scaled the Kumara
Parvatha peak in the Western Ghats. That feeling of
being on top of a mountain left a mark on my soul.
My second trek was to Nag Tibba in Uttarakhand. It
began my love affair with the Himalayas. I undertook
15 treks there in 2015, and planned my work to
include them in my schedule. On 28 December 2015
I stood 13,500 feet above sea level at the Darwa
Peak, my 15th summit of the year. Every journey was
challenging, but filled with beauty and the grace of
wonderful people of the mountains. Nitish Waila
16
En route to Hamta Pass,

Himachal Pradesh
If you skip accommodations in the heart of the city

as they are usually expensive,
factor in transport getting in
and out of the city centre.
Choose co-travellers on the
basis of compatibility.
Give your travel group
deadlines to get back to you
with information, and keep
some wiggle room. For large
groups create Excel sheets to
track and update all plans.
NEXT MEETUP:
Mumbai: 11 March 2016,
7.30-9 p.m.
Venue: Title Waves bookstore,
Bandra (West), Mumbai.
Delhi: 19 March 2016, 6-7 p.m.
Venue: Bandstand, 214-216
Aurobindo Market, Hauz
Khas, New Delhi.
MYTHJA/SHUTTERSTOCK (FOOD), NITISH WAILA (MOUNTAINS)
mountain legend
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Catch of the Day

Recently, I was in the town of Seppa in
western Arunachal Pradesh for the Kameng
River Festival. The river originates in the
Himalayas and weaves its way through the
state before reaching the Brahmaputra. It is
a calm river, but also bustling with various
types of fishing activity. At the festival,
Mara Kocho (in picture), a local, showed
me a range of innovative fishing traps used.
The most ingenious was definitely the one
pictured. The Nyishis, a community in the
East Kameng District, set up this elaborate,
bridge-like bamboo trap. It creates a dam-like
mini reservoir that lets out only a trickle at a
time. The water is thus filtered through and
the fish caught. Residents from communities
on both sides of the river unite to set up the
traps, taking turns each night to watch it, and
in the end, divvy up the catch.
Online Features Writer, Fabiola Monteiro
INSTAGRAM OF THE MONTH
THE FIND
Key of the Nile
Photographer Sanjay Austa captured this image of two teens jumping off
the bridge in Thun into the clear, blue waters of the River Aare, near
Interlaken in Switzerland. The river cuts through the centre of Thun, and
almost everybody gravitates to it during summer. Locals don swimsuits
and somersault, or swim, and surf on the waters gushing under the covered
wooden bridge called Untere Schleuse, or the upper floodgate. Catch the
photo story and experience the Swiss citys easy, relaxed vibe at
www.natgeotraveller.in
FOLLOW @NATGEOTRAVELLERINDIA ON INSTAGRAM
I was intrigued to notice that so many of the

figures of pharaohs and Egyptian gods in the
paintings and bas reliefs around Egypt hold in
their hand the key of life, or ankh. A hieroglyphic
character, it is believed to be a symbol of eternal
life and is found literally everywhere you go in
Egypt. In a little store in Luxor, I asked the owner
to show me a silver pendant with this symbol
and he gave me six options, each lovelier than
the next. I finally chose this one for two reasons:
its delicate shiftishi or filigree work, and hidden
at the back, a silver eye of Horus, the Egyptian
symbol of protection and health.
Editor-in-Chief, Niloufer Venkatraman
MARCH 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
17
PHOTO COURTESY: FABIOLA MONTEIRO (FISHING), SANJAY AUSTA (BOYS), CHIRODEEP CHOUDHURI (PENDANT)
High Dive
CLA N RU L ES
Midnight
Memories
Aditya Daftary
is a Mumbai-based radiologist
who likes to wander. While in the
city, he spends more time on his
bicycle than in his car, and hopes
that soon family vacations will
also be the same.
DO THE PICTURES WE TAKE ON HOLIDAY

EVER MATCH UP TO THE RECOLLECTIONS OF
THE MINDS EYE?
n this era of digital cameras and unending retakes, I hope

I dont sound too old when I say that sometimes I miss
the days of a 24- or 36-exposure roll of film. It limited the
amount of time we spent taking pictures on a vacation,
and also taught us to save each snapshot for something truly
spectacular or eye-catching.
One February, 15 years ago, as young, recently married resident doctors studying in the U.S., my wife and I desperately
needed a holiday. We looked up the cheapest tickets to Europe
and landed up in Spain. Wed decided to spend a week with
nothing more than a backpack, duffle, and our brand-new digital camera. Almost a decade and a half after that trip, my daughter recently came upon an album of 250 photographs of that trip
on the computer. It gave me a few moments to drift back in time.
As I looked through what seemed like an endless stream
of pictures, I found Sevilles La Giralda tower, the glorious
Alhambra in Granada, along with the train that took us there.
There were pictures of La Sagrada Familia church, Gaudis
unfinished masterpiece, and La Pedrera, his phenomenally
constructed building with images of the superb design in the
sample apartment. We had pictures from the Fundaci Joan
Mir and of the Guernica, Picassos anti-war masterpiece.
Finally, we had pictures of the Plaza Mayor in Madrid and the
Reina Sofia, Del Prado, and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums.
All wonderful images that allowed me to relive a wonderful
vacation Id taken with my best friend and companion.
Over the years, we have discussed this trip many times and
never once looked at the photos. In those conversations we never
alluded to any of these wonderful and famous things we saw.
Our conversations are always about the night in Seville when we
stepped out at midnight looking for some authentic flamenco,
only to land up in an empty bar called La Carbonara. And we
went back the next night, even later, only to find Sabrina from
an American school, visiting and performing Bharatanatyam.
Everyone was having a blast at that hour and so did we.
To this day, I can taste the food from the small Mediterranean
dive at the bottom of the Alhambra where we had the most divine
hummus with picante harissa. I recall how wed rushed back
down from the Alhambra just to make sure wed get a second
round before catching our train back to Barcelona.
I still yearn for that almost gelatinously thick, hot chocolate
from Carrer Petritxol, the hot chocolate street behind the
Cathedral in Barcelona. It was a ritual for us to dunk pieces
of a pale yellow sponge cake into it and savour the sweetness.
Wed follow that up with freshly squeezed orange juice and caf
con leche (milky coffee) at Central Caf, before beginning our
day in Barcelona.
Few nights out have been as much fun as we had sitting at
18
a bar in Mikel Etxea off Las Ramblas, chatting with Isabella,

a waitress who spoke no English, and we no Spanish. We
downed litres of sangria, ate platefuls of the Spanish tapas dish
of chilli peppers, pimientos del Padrn, while we helped her
sell heaps of rather bland bottled mushrooms to customers as
tipico Espana (typical Spanish).
No wine has ever really matched up to the cheap Rioja we
bought from the local market and consumed with some locally
produced blue cheese as we sat in our hostal room, which
allegedly was once a brothel frequented by Picasso.
I think Id like to do that trip again, maybe ten years from now
when we celebrate our 25th anniversary. But this time around,
I know I wont bother with a camera. Youll find us at Carrer
Petritxol drinking hot chocolate, and at a bar off the Rambla,
chomping pimientos del Padrn, chatting up people with whom
we share no common language.
La Sagrada Familia, Spain
QUIQUE GARCIA/GETTY IMAGES
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CR EW CU T
In Good Spirits
WHAT TAKES AN AGNOSTIC TO PLACES
OF THE PIOUS?
decade ago, at a temple complex in Mayapur, a village

north of Kolkata in West Bengal, a friend and I scuttled
across a lawn barefoot, our salwars ballooning and
dupattas billowing in the wind. The sky was doggedly
blackit was almost 4 a.m. and we were late, too late. But we still
hoped to catch the first aarti of the day in the temple town.
It is imperative that we get there and await the god, not he
us, admonished Rukmini akka, a 50-something woman of
unshakeable faith, who was sharing our dormitory room. To her,
my agnostic philosophy was unacceptable, but that didnt stop
her from thrusting toothpaste and soap in my hand at 3.30 a.m.
I had simply tagged along with my friend who wanted to visit
Mayapur, but Rukmini akkas fervour made me curious enough
to attend the mangal aarti. As we approached the ISKCON
temple, we joined a stream of men and women; all late, all
moving with hurried steps and anxious faces.
The prayer hall was filled with devotees standing before a
curtained-off room. Some stood on their toes for a better view.
Eventually, the priest put a conch to his mouth and its booming sound permeated deep into my belly. The curtain parted to
reveal the ebony deity of Narsimha, half-lion half-man, and the
room erupted in a clang of cymbals. Sonorous voices sang as if
they were being orchestrated by some hidden conductor. The
toll of what felt like a hundred metal bells washed over me like
waves. My pulse throbbed in sync with the drumbeats.
Eventually the sounds ebbed, and I felt like I had been enveloped by something compelling, something larger than myself.
For a change I didnt feel oppressed by a large crowd, nor was I
mentally dissing organised religion. In that hall, all I felt was the
warmth of a shared experience with people I didnt
know, and would never meet again. That 10-minute
experience made me a compulsive aarti-seeker.
I dont practice any formal religion, and am
cautious when I use the word spiritual. I have
rarely sought either of these to find inner calm. Yet,
often I find myself gravitating towards the ritual of
aartis on my travels through India.
Sometimes, it allows me to discover the essence of
a place. On a recent trip to West Bengal, I visited Belur Math, headquarters of the Ramakrishna Mission
founded by Ramakrishna Paramhansa, the 19thcentury mystic and yogi. An hour-long drive from
Kolkata took us to the 40-acre campus on the banks
of the Hooghly River. At sundown, I sat on the steps
by the river bank and watched the Hooghlys surface stippled with clay diyas. For the evening aarti
I walked into the colonnaded prayer hall with a few
hundred others. Monks too trickled in and took their
20
Kareena Gianani
Kareena Gianani is Associate
Editor at National Geographic
Traveller India. She loves
stumbling upon hole-in-the-wall
bookshops, old towns, and owl
souvenirs in all shapes and sizes.
designated places near the statue of Sri Ramakrishna.

Then the aarti began and the hall was filled with the monks
low, mellifluous tones. My eyes followed the circular movements
made by the hand of the priest wielding a large oil lamp. I traced
that ball of fire as if hypnotised by an elaborate light show. My
surroundings, that sprawling hall teeming with people, dissipated like the smoke from the diya. And that, I realised, was the
very ethos of Belur Math: losing oneself in something beyond the
physical and detaching from petty, earthly bonds, however momentarily. I felt I understood what the place stood for. It became
all the more significant that its temples have architectural motifs
from different religions of the world, signifying spiritual oneness.
Two years ago, on a trip to Munnar in Kerala, I spent the evening of my birthday cleaning and lighting lamps at a small, roadside shrine that was gearing up for the last aarti of the day. It
was so dark that I could barely see the flickering oil lamp being
waved around the deity, and the psychedelic fairy lights festooned
outside didnt help. But sharing that space, and later the prasad,
with the locals gave me one of my warmest birthday memories.
When I land up at an aarti in a distant location, I dont really
know what I am looking for. Perhaps I seek something as enigmatic as transcendence. Or something more fundamental like
the need to unwrap childhood memories Im afraid are getting
dusty with time. Like a recollection of my grandfather humming
verses as he sat bent over a tattered Bhagavad Gita, or my grandmother singing hymns on full moon nights, as she applied vermilion to a faucet, thanking god for the bountiful supply of water
for the family. What Im pursuing isnt very clear, but I like what
I discover. Maybe all travel is a means to find a way back home.
PACIFIC PRESS/GETTY IMAGES
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A dream destination
Tel: 011-26236525 | Email: mauritius@omtourism.com

www.tourism-mauritius.mu
NAVIGATE
44
cinemascape
Visit locations where
Star Wars was filmed
46
sporting spirit
Finding Pataudi, Austen, and
undiluted tradition in Winchester
54
local flavour
Following an olives journey
from farm to table in Italy
The five colonial-style houses of Taipa

Houses-Museum provide an alternative
view of Macau by showcasing its
Portuguese and Macanese heritage.
Gold Behind the Glitter
t first glance, Macau is a

city of gold. Towering hotels
are stacked with casinos
and brimming with fortune
seekers attempting to out-gleam each
other. But theres another side to Macau,
and its far from the slot machines and
card tables. Once a Portuguese colony,
a hideout for pirates, and a Jesuit
stronghold, Macau is a hodgepodge of
European, Chinese, and local Macanese
influences. Macau city is a peninsular
region in southern China and was the
last European colony in Asia, governed
by the Portuguese until the late 1990s.
22
The peninsula, neighbouring islands of

Coloane and Taipa, and the reclaimed
Cotai Strip, are dotted with historical
gems and cultural treasures, including
niche museums and an opera.
AROUND MACAU
Taipa Houses-Museum The waterfront
at Taipa Praia was prime property

for colonial administrators and civil
servants, who built bungalows here
instead of living in apartments or
townhouses in Macaus Lilau Square.
They built family homes in the
Portuguese style, with sweeping patios,
parlours, kitchens downstairs, and

bedrooms upstairs. Five of these pretty
mint-and-white painted houses from
the early 1920s have been restored and
THE VITALS
Getting There There are no direct
flights from India, and Macau can be
reached via a layover at a hub like
Bangkok or Beijing. A convenient option
is to fly to Hong Kong, from where it is
possible to get to Macau by ferry (65
km to the east).
Visa Indians are eligible for a visa on
arrival in Macau as well as Hong Kong.
MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA
CASH IN THE CASINO CHIPS AND EXPLORE ANOTHER SIDE OF MACAU BY MITALI PAREKH
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turned into the Taipa Houses-Museum.

Each house is its own mini museum,
and together they demonstrate how
the Macanese of mixed Portuguese
descent lived in the past, and continue
to live now. The first house is preserved
as a residence, its rooms crowded
with restored teak furniture, fourposter beds with gauzy mosquito nets,
cold boxes for storing dairy, musical
instruments, reading and writing tables,
and carved room dividers. Catholicism
was the dominant religion of the time,
and the master bedrooms have elegantly
carved and embellished altars, with
kneelers to pray on before tucking in
for the night.
The adjoining houses hold
memorabilia from the
Coloane and Taipa
islands, in the form
of maps, and
artefacts from
important
historical
events. The focus of another house

is Portuguese cultural history, by
way of costumes, instruments, and
photographs. Outside the museum,
newly betrothed couples pout and
primp for photographs. Pre-wedding
photography is a major ritual in Macau,
and couples are shot in traditional
Chinese as well as Christian wedding
outfits. On any given day, you will see
a team of photographers, make-up
artists, and a couple posing: he in a
sleek tuxedo with spiked hair and she
in a fluffy gown. (+853-288271053;
www.icm.gov.mo; open 10 a.m.-6 p.m,
no admission after 4.30 p.m.; entry
Macanese Pataca or MOP5/`42; TueSun, free for adults over 65 and children
under 12; entry free on Sunday).
St. Francis Xaviers Chapel in Coloane
holds a surprising connection between

Macau and India. This yellow-and-white
chapel once held a bone relic of Saint
Francis Xavier, whose body now rests
at the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Goa. As

a Jesuit missionary, Xavier spent some
time in this region before he died on
Shangchuan Island, about 80 kilometres
away. He was buried there for some time
before his body was excavated and taken
to Portuguese India. The chapel here,
built in 1928, also has relics of other
Catholic martyrs. Unlike the grand,
sombre Basilica of Bom Jesus, this chapel
is sunny and homely. The alcove behind
the pulpit is painted blue with silhouettes
of seagulls on top, giving the illusion
that the sermons are held underwater.
This chapel is meant to honour the
humble Jesuit shepherd who loved his
community (Ruo do Caetano, Largo
Eduardo Marques; open 10 a.m.-6 p.m.).
A short walk from the chapel in
Coloane, stop at Lord Stows bakery for
the original Portuguese egg tart. There
are other outlets of Lord Stows but this
one at 1 Rua Do Tassara is where owner
Andrew Stow claims to have given
the egg tart a Portuguese twist in the
GODONG/ROBERTHARDING/DINODIA (MAN), MITALI PAREKH (CATHEDRAL),

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (FOOD)
Tai Chi experts exhibit their skills at the Lou Lim Ieoc Garden (left); Newly betrothed couples (right) posing for pre-wedding photographs are
frequently spotted at scenic locations across Macau; Filled with a sweet custard, Portuguese egg tarts (bottom) are an iconic Macau treat. The
ones from Lord Stows bakery have a worldwide fan following.
CU LTU R E
An underwater fantasy installation (left) provides the perfect photo-op for guests at the City of Dreams resort; The lobby of MGM Macau is a
walk-through art gallery with all manner of works on display (top right); The Hac-sa beach at Coloane has plenty of water sports as well as gentle
waves, perfect for young children (bottom right).
1990s. The little tart contains wobbly,

caramelised custard held within a flaky
pastry shell. Stows is slightly eggier
than versions found at other stalls and
bakeries. Eat it warm, fresh out of the
oven (+853-28882534; lordstow.com;
MOP10/`84).
Explore the Terrain For active travellers,
there is some good hiking and beach

bumming in the region. The Coloane
trails start near the A-Ma goddess
statue on Coloane Hill. Tourist shops,
kiosks, and newspaper stands stock
maps for visitors, and the trails are well
marked. The longest one is about eight
kilometres and meanders all over the
mountain. Shorter trails branch off it,
such as the Northeast Coloane Walking
Trail or the Long Chao Kok Coastal
Trail, which has stone outcrops with
views of the beach below. There are rest
stops, barbecue pits (families carry coal
and marinated meats with them), and
26
picnic areas. Sturdy sandals or sports

shoes should suffice. Its a gentle walk
in and out of shaded woods and sunny
promontories that are perfect for sitting
and sipping iced tea.
On the beach, there are picnic tables,
food stalls, and convenience stores.
All along the waterfront are shops
renting kayaks, swimming gear, or
offering kite-surfing lessons. If youve
emptied your pockets at the casinos,
there is also beach-side dormitorystyle accommodation to be found here
(government buses from Macau city to
the A-Ma statue MOP5/`42 and Hac-sa
beach for MOP6.40/`54).
IN MACAU
Speed and Swig The Grand Prix Museum
and the Wine Museum are housed in the
same building, the Tourism Activities

Centre, and these niche institutions
are more fun than the casual visitor
might expect.
Macaus Guia circuit is considered

one of the toughest Grand Prix racing
street circuits in the world, and the
Grand Prix Museum displays the mean
machines that raced and conquered this
track. One of its most popular exhibits
is the F3 car that Ayrton Senna drove
during the circuits inaugural race in
1983. Meanwhile, the Wine Museum,
organized by Portugals wine-growing
regions, with mannequins wearing
traditional regional costumes, has wine
samplings of various commercially
produced bottles. But it also stocks a
collection of port wine, the oldest of
which dates to 1815. (+853-87984108;
en.macautourism.gov.mo; Wed-Mon; 10
a.m. to 6 p.m.).
Chinese Landscape The Lou Lim Ieoc
Garden is created in the style of the
classical gardens of Suzhou, a UNESCO

World Heritage Site in China. Its a
good place to enjoy a calm afternoon
VH/ORIENTAL TOUCH/DINODIA (ART), TIBOR BOGNAR/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (HOTEL), HOLGER LEUE/LOOK/DINODIA (CHILDREN)
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among foliage. In gazebos located amidst

bamboo groves and sweeping trees,
cellists, flautists, violinists, and retired
members of the Chinese opera practise
their art. Lotuses bloom in a pond and
koi fish swim underneath while people
practice tai chi. Look up, look around,
and dont forget to look downthe
cobblestones are shaped like swans in
flight (No. 10 Estrada de Adolfo Loureiro;
entry free; open 6 a.m.-9 p.m.).
1,000 rippled, lotus leaf-like pieces

suspended in mid-air. The MGMs Art
Space gallery has Chihulys Drawing
INTO THE HOTELS

Art in Macau Beyond their jade-studded
floors and gold-flecked ceilings, hotels

in the NAPE neighbourhood use
their art collections to distinguish
themselves, and entice guests to stay.
Foremost is the MGM Macau, where
surrealist Salvadore Dalis Alice in
Wonderland statue stands outside.
His Dalilian Dancer twirls in the
lobby underneath glass sculptor Dale
Chihulys Fiori di Paradiso Ceiling.
Chihulys handblown installation has
28
Wall, and other temporary exhibitions

(www.mgmmacau.com; entry free).
Dancing Water The City of Dreams
resort on the Cotai strip hosts the 1.5

hour show, House of Dancing Water.
Developed by Belgiums Franco Dragone
Company, the show takes place in a
stage pool that holds 3.7 million gallons
of water, in an auditorium with 270
seating. Weaving many elements of
Macaus maritime culture together, the
performers enact the story of a Chinese
fisherman who is transported to another
time, where he befriends a soldier
and rescues a princess. This simple
tale is told through a mind-boggling
range of performing artsballet, mild
burlesque trapeze acts, martial arts,
water ballet, acrobatics, high diving,
and even stunt bikingall in the water.
(www.cityofdreamsmacau.com; adults
from MOP598/`5,070, children from
MOP419/`3,552; two shows daily at 5
and 8 p.m.)
SAN HOYANO/ORIENTAL TOUCH/DINODIA (CHURCH), LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (TEMPLE)
The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier (top) used to house a relic of the saint; A-Ma Cultural Village (bottom) on Coloane Island has a temple, palace, and
hiking trails nearby.
SUMMER ISLAND MALDIVES

WHERE DREAMS BECOME REALITY
AND SUMMER NEVER ENDS
RESERVATIONS@SUMMERISLANDMALDIVES.COM
WWW.SUMMERISLANDMALDIVES.COM
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D E TOU R
Arcadian Interlude
LIVE LIKE A LOCAL OFF SIKKIMS TOURIST ROUTE BY SARITA SANTOSHINI
narrow, slippery trail cuts

through a forest of chestnut,
birch, and alder trees. Theres
no sign of civilisation, but I
continue on it, trusting the directions
of a young monk. Hed guided me to a
small clearing and told me to keep going
until I reach the village of Kewzing in
southern Sikkim. Fifteen minutes later, I
am convinced that I am lost in the deep
woods, until I begin to hear faint voices.
The trail leads me to the backyard of a
family that is busy chopping firewood.
They are clearly surprised to see an
uninvited visitor.
Kewzing is about 75 kilometres
southwest of Gangtok, and exists in the
shadow of its more popular neighbour,
the town of Ravangla. Besides a
monastery and single house that stand
by the road, the village is scattered across
the forest, and the homes of its 200-odd
residents can only be accessed on foot.
Bright green or red tin roofs peek out
30
from the foliage, against the backdrop

of the Kanchenjunga range. The peaks
of Mount Karbu and Mount Narsing are
visible on clear days. It is the dreamiest
setting for a life of quiet, I think.
In spite of my surprise visit, I am
ushered inside and offered a cup of hot
tea. Soon, I am introduced to Tshering
Topgay. This young man coordinates
the Kewzing Tourism Development
Committee, a collective effort by its
citizens to practice responsible tourism
by opening their simple but comfortable
homes to travellers, and introducing
them to local culture.
I have spent the previous four days
in Gangtok, following the orchestrated
routine of most tourists. During my
walk through the village with Topgay,
I witness Sikkim just the way Id
imagined it before my trip. Here,
in Kewzing, there is no urgency, no
checklist, and I am allowed a glimpse
of the self-contained yet welcoming
society. I learn that the residents mostly

belong to the Bhutia community and
practice Buddhism.
Every home has an elaborate prayer
room, and in kitchen gardens I spot
ripening tomatoes and chillies. I also
notice that many homes have lawns.
There is one with old wooden logs
used as seats under flowering trees.
We pause at another to enjoy a bite of
zhero, a deep-fried snack made of wheat.
At yet another, we listen to a woman
strumming the dramyin, a traditional
PHOTO COURTESY: CHEWANG BONPO
An hour-long trek from Kewzing through a forest filled with Buddhist stupas and little bridges across gushing streams (top) ends at the serene
Doling Monastery; Consider yourself lucky if you see the gorgeous fire-tailed myzorni (bottom).
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D E TOU R
There are a number of Buddhist monasteries (top left) around Kewzing; Many regional folk songs are dedicated to the great barbet (top right), a
popular bird in this area; Bon Farmhouse (bottom) is spread over six acres and offers guests insights into local practices like organic farming.
32
it my profession, he says. Even today,

Bonpo says he feels childlike glee every
time he spots a gorgeous fire-tailed
myzorni, green magpie, red-tailed
minla, or a brown wood owl during
his walks through the area.

Although I cant stay long enough to
try and spot some of these birds, I leave
with their song. And the thrum of the
dramyin lingering in my mind.
THE VITALS
Getting There Located in the southern
district of Sikkim, Kewzing is about 135
km/4 hr from Bagdogra Airport and
about 130 km/4 hr from New Jalpaiguri
railway station. It is about 10 km/15
min from Ravangla. Drive past Kewzing
Monastery to Bon Farmhouse, after
which a single house marks the start of
the village.
Stay Bon Farmhouse, run by
ornithologist and birding guide,
Chewang Bonpo, is a lovely place to
stay, with well-furnished rooms, some

of which have private verandas. Some
face the Kanchenjunga range (www.
sikkimbonfarmhouse.com; doubles from
`3,200 including breakfast). Visitors
can enquire locally about homestays
run by Kewzing Tourism Development
Committee (ktdc@sikkimfoundation.org).
Birding Tour Chewang Bonpo organises
birding trips that cost `1,500 for a
morning session and `3,000 for a full
day trip for a group of four.
PHOTO COURTESY: CHEWANG BONPO
Himalayan folk instrument. No one

speaks fluent English or Hindi, but their
hospitality and friendliness effortlessly
bridges the language barrier.
Kewzing is located only about eight
kilometres away from the Maenam
Wildlife Sanctuary. The wildlife park
extends all the way to the Rangit River
and has about 200 species of birds. I
meet Chewang Rinchen Bonpo, the
owner of Bon Farmhouse and a wellknown ornithologist in the region,
who leads birding tours. Though he
studied outside the village, Bonpos
childhood vacations in his family home
here involved long hours in the forest
collecting fodder and firewood. I spent
so much time surrounded by nature,
spotting and observing birds that I
decided to move back here and make
THE TREES
CHANGING THE FACE OF CENTRAL MUMBAI
Vikhroli is slowly
emerging as the most
sought after and
greenest locations in
Mumbai today, thanks
to Godrejs pioneering
new project
WHAT WAS THE COMMUNICATION OBJECTIVE FOR
THIS CAMPAIGN?
WHAT WAS THE PRIMARY OBJECTIVE?
The launch of our landmark project The Trees
in Vikhroli.
WHAT WAS THE SECONDARY OBJECTIVE?
To make the launch of The Trees the biggest and most
successful launch ever witnessed in GPL through rigorous
marketing activities across mediums which would help
generate buzz in the market leading to an impact which
would sustain over the lifecycle of the project.
WHAT TYPE OF COMMUNICATION MEDIUMS WERE
USED FOR THE CAMPAIGN?
An integrated 360 degree campaign which communicates a fine blend of history, art and modernism
which are the core of this project. Another highlight is
the location. Vikhroli is an integral part of the Godrej
Groups growth story and we needed a campaign that
will not only highlight the location but also the historic
significance of Vikhroli and how it is emerging as one of
the finest addresses in Mumbai today. Aspects like the
green cover around Vikhroli, connectivity with all parts
of Mumbai, and last but not the least a well-conceived
project which will change the way homes are perceived
in Mumbai is what we set to achieve with this campaign.

WHAT WERE YOUR KEY MARKETING OBJECTIVES
THAT YOU SET TO ACHIEVE WITH THIS CAMPAIGN?
COULD YOU LET US KNOW THE PRIMARY AND THE
SECONDARY OBJECTIVES OF THIS CAMPAIGN?
Primary: Increase awareness about the project and
generate quality walk-ins on site
Secondary: Creating a buzz around how the face of
central Mumbai is changing and how Vikhroli is slowly
emerging to be the most sought after and greenest locations in Mumbai today.
COULD YOU THROW SOME LIGHT ON THE
CAMPAIGN THOUGHT AND HOW YOU WISHED TO
POSITION THE PROJECT ACROSS MEDIA?
The campaign thought to weave the story taking three
key elements about the project and creating compelling
reasons for customers to consider living in the Trees.
Through our research we figured that the three most important aspects which customers consider when buying
a home are location, the project and amenities and what
changes it would bring about in their lifestyles.
Given this premise, we concentrated on three important
aspects about the development. One aspect was to con-
centrate on how Vikhroli is centrally located in Mumbai

and easily accessible from every part of the city. Vikhroli
currently is also the greenest part of the city with a wide
expanse of Mangroves- a rarity in this concrete city of
Mumbai. The second aspect of the communication
would dwell on the Trees being a mixed use development
having residences, luxury hospitality, high street retail
and two commercial complexes creating a lively environment. The third aspect focused on the life in the trees on
how life would be if you lived as a part of the trees where
the neighborhood had been very well planned considering the aspect of convenience and luxury.
WHO IS YOUR TARGET AUDIENCE FOR THIS
PROJECT?
Clearly people looking for a high quality eco-friendly life.
Social Profile :
a. Businessmen, Industrialists, High Power Professionals
b. Dual income couples (earning upwards of `75 Lakhs/
annum)
c. Buyers upgrading to bigger and more premium apartments
d. NRIs for investments
e. Major Corporates for Office Space
f. Brand conscious and aspiring for a premium lifestyle.
g. The new aspirational Indian in short.
Area-wise :
Predominantly from Mumbai but would include the rich
all over India including NRIs looking to invest. We have
projects across Mumbai and there are chances that we
spread across the country.
The Mind game:
a. The connect here has to be with their lifestyle needs
b. People looking for homes that fulfil their needs and
are willing to pay a premium to find such homes
c. Should be of the international class and state of
the art
d. Status symbol to some extent
HOW HAS THE CAMPAIGN PERFORMED FOR YOU?
Area Sold: 4.55 Lakh Sq.ft.
Booking Value: 861 Cr.
Apartment Sold: 355 Apartments
WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE WAY FORWARD NOW?
Since most of our inventory has been sold in phase I, we
will now concentrate on the launch of Phase II of the
project. We will continue with the current positioning
and look forward to create more buzz about the next
Phase. And we will look for to the same response as we
received in the Phase I of the Trees.
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D E TOU R
A Stitch in Time
SEA-WEATHERED BUT WELL-PRESERVED, LUNENBURG IS A COASTAL GEM BY SONIA NAZARETH
ven without its UNESCO World

Heritage Site tag, Lunenburg,
a small coastal town in Nova
Scotia, Canada, is a seductive
destination. Less than two hours
from Halifax, this 18th-century towns
colourfully painted wooden buildings are
truly spectacular.
A guided walk around the wellpreserved historic centre reveals
painted churches and stately Georgian
and Victorian homes. Look out for
architectural quirks like the Lunenburg
bumpan enlarged window that
projects, vertically from the sloping roofs
of many homes. Theres also the widows
watch, a raised rooftop platform used
by women to keep a look out for vessels
at sea. At the Fisheries Museum of the
Atlantic, old vessels are on display.
Detailed, interactive panels tell stories
of the areas fisherfolk and seafarers.
Visitors to the town can also book
the Bluenose II, the replica of a 1920s
schooner, for tours ( fisheriesmuseum.
36
novascotia.ca; open 9.30 a.m.5 p.m.;

entry adults CAD7/`345, children
CAD2/`99; closed until May 2016).
Lunenburgs culinary history is
connected to its residents German roots
and its proximity to the ocean. Dishes
like Dutch Mess (boiled salt cod, pork
scraps, potatoes, and onions), Solomon
Gundy (pickled herring), and sauerkraut
are served everywhere, as is a variety
of outstandingly fresh seafood. Try Salt
Shaker Deli for local favourites (www.
saltshakerdeli.com; open 11 a.m.-8 p.m.;
meal for two from `2,000).
Ironworks Distillery capitalises on the
berries abundantly available in the area,
and distils blueberry, raspberry, and
cranberry liqueurs. Lunenburg was once
a stop-off point for rum runners, and
the rum from this micro-distillery, made
from imported Caribbean molasses, is
a tipple worth trying. So is their vodka
made with local apples. Visit the store to
stock up on their products or take a tour
(The Blacksmiths Shop, 2 Kempt Street;
entry free; open 4 Jan-30 Apr, 12-5 p.m.)

A ten-minute drive away is the tiny
village of Blue Rocks. Punctuated
by fish shacks and awash in a salty
breeze, it is best experienced at sunset.
I unexpectedly gained some local
knowledge here when I encountered
an old salt, or sailor. From him I
learned about sailors superstitions
including putting a broomstick across
your door at night, and spitting when
you see a single crow to ward off evil. In
the idiosyncrasies of this town and its
culture lie the essence of its charm.
THE VITALS
Lunenburg lies 92 km/1.5 hr southwest
of Halifax, capital of Canadas Nova
Scotia province. The Essential
Lunenburg tour is an hour-long
introduction to the towns history and
architecture (lunenburgwalkingtours.
com; daily 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. from
15 May-15 Oct; adults CAD20/`990,
children CAD10/`495).
ROLF HICKER/ALL CANADA PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
With its well-preserved wooden houses, Lunenburg in Novo Scotia is good example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America.
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C I N E M ASCA PE
Mountain Movies
he first time I travelled to
Switzerland, I expected
a clichthe somewhat
underwhelming version of
what I had already seen on screen a
hundred times. I didnt expect that the
lakes, mountains, historic towns, and
picture-postcard Alpine villages would
astonish me. Everywhere I turned, I
saw mountains, yet the scene changed
each time, dramatically rendered in
different technicolour shades, depending
on the time of day or night. As I walked
my solitary way along various paths,
occasionally looking for a phantom hand
to hold on to, to share the romance of
the moment, memories of the movies
came flooding back.
Switzerland has always been much
more than a mere prop to cinema. A
dynamic canvas that has been adapted
to romance, drama, and tragedy,
its landscape has been rendered

forbidding, benevolent, and thrilling
by turns. Dastardly murders, chiffonclad romances, and edgy, high-speed
car chases have all happened here.
Generations of filmmakers used the
dramatic peaks and blue lakes as
a perfect foil to the adventures of
spies, detectives, divas, and villains.
From 007s cat-and-mouse games to
Bollywoods young lovers cavorting on
the snowy ridges of the Jungfraujoch
col, the world of motion pictures
would not be the same without these
magnificent locales. Big budget
commercial cinema permanently
catapulted Switzerland into every
movie buff s imagination.
BOLLYWOOD BACKDROP
In the world of Bollywood, it is a truth

universally acknowledged that a woman
Ranbir Kapoor romances Minissha Lamba

against the backdrop of the Swiss Alps in the
2008 romantic comedy Bachna Ae Haseeno.
38
in love must wear bright chiffon saris

and dance with gay abandon against
the backdrop of the snowy Alps,
accompanied by a hero in colourcoordinated outfits. The scenes are often
framed with musical cows and country
churches, and nearly always feature
cathartic slo-mo sequences at a train
station. This type of glossy love story
popularised by the late film-maker Yash
Chopra has, over the years, become a
template for Hindi cinema. In the Yash
Raj formula (named for Chopra and his
sons studio), Switzerland is an essential
ingredient for romance. From the tiny
lanes of Gstaad to the train station at
Saanen, from the meadows of Interlaken
to the streets of Bern, and from the
mighty Junfraujoch to the awe-inspiring
Rhine Falls, there was a Swiss dimension
to nearly every Bollywood love story in
the 1980s and 90s.
PHOTO COURTESY: YASH RAJ FILMS PVT. LTD.
SPIES, LOVERS, AND RENDEZVOUS IN THE TOWERING SWISS ALPS BY DIYA KOHLI
C I N E M ASCA PE
In Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol sang and danced amid mountains, meadows, and Alpine towns (left) and forever
twinned Switzerland with love in the Indian filmgoers imagination; As a result, towns like Saanen (right) and Gstaad became familiar stops on
the tourist itinerary.
As Yash Chopra romances brought

Switzerland into a billion living rooms,
Indian travel agents were inundated
with requests for holiday itineraries
featuring places like Gstaad, Saanen,
and La Chaux-de-Fonds. Romance for
these travellers was a sum of images
culled from films like Silsila (1981),
Chandni (1989), Lamhe (1991), Darr
(1993), Dil to Pagal Hai (1997), and
above all Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge
or DDLJ (1995).
On late night walks, my mind wandered to all the candyfloss Bollywood
romances set in this utterly beautiful
landscape. Despite my disdain for ludicrous plots and absurd choreography,
I couldnt help but feel a surge of pride
when Swiss, German, and Russian people chatted with me about Raj Kapoor
or Shah Rukh Khan. These actors were
the dots connecting me and the subcontinent to which I belonged with the
country I was visiting. The characters
they played became wraith-like companions on my trip. Sometimes, I heard
the strains of half-remembered songs
40
or Sridevis eerie cackle from the film

Chandni (1989) as she rolled among the
buttercups, resonating in my dreams.
SPIES AND VILLAINS
The Swiss Alps also became a place of

secret hideouts, highly classified facilities,
and an apt setting for daredevil highspeed car chases. In particular, this stark
white scenery, in which super villains
and their henchmen plotted world
domination, became forever associated
with the exploits of the greatest spy that
ever lived, the unflagging British secret
agent James Bond.
As Bond battled his enemies, rescued
damsels in distress, and seduced
his assassins all in a days work, his
adventures made for some absolutely
unforgettable scenes. The one that
immediately comes to mind is Goldfinger
(1964), in which the inimitable Sean
Connery as 007 is chased by Tilly
Masterson across the stunning Furka
Pass. The glamorous sequence through
this breathtaking 7,969-foot-high
paved pass features Bonds iconic Aston
Martin, and is counted among the best

in the history of cinema. Fans can relive
this momentalbeit within speed
limitson the driving route along the
Grand Tour of Switzerland. While there
might not be an Aston Martin on offer,
the other cars available on this tour
are posh, and will make you feel
quite sophisticated.
Another sequence that is as bold
in its conception as in its choice of
setting is from GoldenEye (1995). The
film features Pierce Brosnan as Bond
jumping off the edge of Contra Dam
near Lugano. This 720-foot jump is
regarded by some as the best movie
stunt of all time, and the site has become
a famed bungee point for those intrepid
enough to take on the challenge.
Besides the action sequences, some
less dangerous locations have also become intrinsically associated with Bond
films. One example is the legendary
revolving restaurant of Piz Gloria on the
Schilthorn, the headquarters of Bonds
nemesis Blofeld in On Her Majestys
Secret Service (1969). Here, fans can
OLEG_MIT/SHUTTERSTOCK (DAM), DONALDSON COLLECTION/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/MOVIEPIX/GETTY IMAGES (SEAN CONNERY),

ALBUM ONLINE/INDIAPICTURE (BON APPETIT & STAR WARS: EPISODE III- REVENGE OF THE SITH), THE HOLLYWOOD ARCHIVE/DINODIA (ON HER
MAJESTYS SECRET SERVICE)
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C I N E M ASCA PE
enjoy a James Bond 007 breakfast buffet

to relive the on-screen excitement.
BEYOND BOND
Switzerlands film heritage extends

beyond spy films and romances too.
Looking up at the purple mountains
of Grindelwald, I imagined they
looked as other-worldly as they did
when they featured as the peaks of the
planet Alderaan in Star Wars: Episode
III- Revenge of the Sith (2005). On
the shores of Lake Geneva on a rainy
evening, I almost saw a young Mary
Shelley sitting on the promenade in
Montreux, staring across the lake on a
stormy night in Rowing with the Wind
(1988), a film about the author and
the monster she created in her novel
Frankenstein. In my last few hours in
the country, I recalled the burgeoning
romance between a young chef and a
sommelier in Bon Appetit (2010) while
warming myself with a midnight cup of
coffee in an industrial suburb of Zurich.
The brilliant colours of fall were
42
rendered even more vivid with my celluloid memories of this landscape and
all the magnificent dramas, romances,
spy thrillers, and edgy action films set
against this painters backdrop. And
when I returned home, changed by
the things I had seen and people I had
met, I felt a desire to go back, to see the
mountains and yellow-red trees one
more time. Back in Mumbai, I watched
Paolo Sorrentinos brilliant film Youth
(2015) in an old art deco theatre, and
was unexpectedly transported back to

the land I had just left.
Sitting back in my chair during the
closing sequences of Youth, I felt close
to these towering mountains. The films
surreal, artistic portrayal of the binary
of youth and old age unfolded through
a collage of startling images under the
cold, starkly beautiful Alps. Right then,
I decided I would have to return to
Switzerland to find the very valley where
this film was shot.
PHOTO COURTESY: YASH RAJ FILMS PVT. LTD. (DILWALE DULHANIA LE JAYENGE), ROBERT HARDING/INDIAPICTURE (TOWN)
James Bond had a penchant for the Alps and certain locations have become synonymous with his antics. For instance, there is Contra Dam (top
left) in Ticino, from where 007 makes a daring jump in the opening scene of GoldenEye (1995); Sean Connery (top right) cuts a dashing figure
during the hair-raising Furka Pass chase in Goldfinger (1964); Posters of films shot in different spots in this picturesque country (bottom).
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C I N E M ASCA PE
Rub al Khalis other-worldly

1,000-foot-high sand dunes pass
for the planet of Jakku in Star Wars
Episode VII: The Force Awakens.
The Force is Strong

AT THESE LOCATIONS WHERE THE LATEST STAR WARS MOVIE WAS SHOT BY KAMAKSHI AYYAR
44
of the monks cells, the graveyard, and

St. Michaels church. There are over a
hundred crosses in various shapes and
forms scattered across the island.
U.A.E. The sand dunes of Abu Dhabis
Rub al Khali feature prominently in the
film, standing in for the planet of Jakku.
The Middle-Eastern hub is no stranger
to tourists, with its beautiful beaches,
desert safaris, souks, and family-friendly
attractions making it a great holiday
choice for every kind of traveller.
U.K. In the UK, Gloucestershires
Puzzlewood forest is the backdrop to
the thrilling confrontation between Rey
and Kylo Ren. Its knotted trees and lush
green are said to have also inspired parts
of The Lord of the Rings. The forest has
also made an appearance in popular
television shows like Doctor Who.
ICELAND Icelands Myvatn-Krafla
volcanic region has long been a favourite

of filming crews from around the world,
including the Game of Thrones. Its
blue-green lakes, steaming craters, and
mudpools give parts of Star Wars its
other-worldly feel.
POWER OF PLACE
The first UNESCO World Heritage Site
to feature in a Star Wars film was the
Royal Palace of Caserta in southern
Italy. The magnificent, large royal
residence, built in the 18th century,
includes a palace with gardens, woods
and hunting lodges, and even a silk
factory. It has served as the location
for Queen Amidalas Palace on Naboo
in Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom
Menace as well as Queen Jamillias
palace in Star Wars Episode II: Attack
of the Clones.
JULIEN GRACIA/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA
urprisingly, for a movie about

fictional galaxies, much of
Star Wars Episode VII: The
Force Awakens was shot at real
locations instead of worlds imagined in
computer graphics. The seventh edition
in the popular movie franchise sees the
return of classic characters like Han
Solo, Luke Skywalker, and Princess Leia
travelling to fantastical planets. The
spectacular locations where it was filmed
have captured the imagination of sci-fi
fans and travellers across the world.
IRELAND The island of Skellig Michael,
just southwest of Irelands County
Kerry, doubles as the place where Luke
Skywalker has been biding his time.
In real life, the island is the location of
a centuries-old Christian monastery
that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Visitors can explore the rocky remains
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S PO RTI N G S PI R I T
Winchester city has a number of

cricketing clubs. On a weekend, its
common to find local teams playing
a match in their cricket whites.
Cricketing Country
FINDING PATAUDI, AUSTEN, AND UNDILUTED TRADITION IN WINCHESTER BY TITHIPARNA SENGUPTA
46
off. A birdunfortunately I cant tell a

lark from a thrush or a chaffinchsings
to its hearts content.
A short distance ahead, we come
across a beautiful cricket ground set in
this bucolic background. It is part of
the 14th-century Winchester College,
the oldest running public school in
England, belonging to the same elite
league as Eton and Harrow. Theres a
school match going on complete with
all the paraphernalia of the game: white
flannels, V-neck sweaters, gloves and
pads, a scoreboard, and a pavilion where
I am sure the ritual of afternoon tea is
scrupulously followed.
Cricket has a long relationship with
Winchester. Some people claim that it
was here that the game matured from
a schoolboy pastime to an adult sport.
There is even a 17th-century Latin poem
that mentions boys playing cricket in

Winchester. The areas inns and public
houses have names like The Bat & Ball
and The Thomas Lord, the latter for the
founder of Lords Cricket Ground, who
ATLAS
SLOVAKIA
IA
BANGLADE
ADESH
COLOMBIA
LESOTHO
Winchester, United Kingdom

Besides Jane Austen, 19th century
Romantic poet John Keats lived
in Winchester briefly. He wrote
several poems here, including his
famous ode To Autumn.
DAVID LYONS/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
s I walk through water

meadows, I feel the strength
of a friends observation that
an English summers day is
the most beautiful thing on earth. I
have just set out from Winchester, the
quaint county town of Hampshire, 100
kilometres southwest of London. Behind
me are its ancient cathedral, castle ruins,
cavernous bookshops, and cobbled
roads. Spread out in front is a glorious
English scene, straight out of the books
of nursery rhymes I grew up with.
To my right are meadows dotted
with cows and dappled with sunlight.
Buttercups roll towards wooded hills,
and a sparkling river meanders through
them. To the left gurgles a slender
stream, with trout darting in its cool
shallows, ducks snacking on the water
weeds, and a bull terrier chasing them
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S PO RTI N G S PI R I T
The 12th-century Hospital of St. Cross stands tall over meadows with tufty grass and a swirl of yellow buttercups (top); The ninth-century
St. Swithuns bridge across the Itchen River (bottom) is right in the centre of Winchester.
48
yet another stately ground. I flop down

amidst the buttercups and primroses,
fish out my sandwiches, and follow the
action. There is something sublime
about the humble school matchthe
eagerness of the boys and the sound of
the cherry hitting the batthat warms
my Indian heart. Cynics may cry out
about the death of cricket at the hands of
commercially lucrative forms like T20,
but at least in Winchester, the sport is
alive and kicking.
THE VITALS
Winchester is 110 km/1.5 hr southwest
of London and there are many train and
bus connections. Games are played at
the Winchester College grounds every
Saturday throughout the summer term.
Saturday afternoons are a good bet
for catching other local cricket clubs
like Hambledon and Chawton in action.
The Winchester Cathedral, its crypt
and treasury are open 9.30 a.m.-5 p.m,
Mon-Sat and 12.30-3 p.m. on Sunday.
AYON MANDAL
retired to West Meon in the Winchester

area. But the most interesting of
Winchesters cricketing connections has
to be this one: Jane Austen, who spent
most of her life in this part of England
and died in Winchester, is believed to
have been a great devotee of the sport.
Before setting out, we visited the writers
grave inside Winchester Cathedral, and
passed by the Georgian double-storeyed
building where she lived.
At the school, cricket has always
been serious business. The best of
Winchester Colleges several cricket
teams is called the Lords. Amongst
the famous players who have captained
the Lords are bowler Douglas Jardine
(infamous for his Bodyline action),
and our very own Tiger Pataudi, albeit
40 years apart. In fact, Pataudi broke
Jardines record of the highest number
of runs and season average in 1959. This
accomplishment was sweetened by the
fact that Jardine had unfairly thrown
Tigers father out of the England cricket
team when the senior Pataudi protested
against bodyline bowling. Incidentally,
Tiger Pataudis record still stands to
this day.
Strolling further down the meadow,
we see another match being played on
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BO O K EXTRACT
Lure of the Open Road

THE JOY OF BEING BEHIND THE WHEEL OF A CAR, THE THRILL OF ROAD-TRIPPING,
AND MAKING FRIENDS ON THE GO, FROM RISHAD SAAM MEHTAS NEW BOOK
ifteen years ago, Rishad Saam Mehta was chasing the corporate
dream when his true calling came wrapped around a sandwich. The
newspaper holding his lunch carried a classified by an automobile
magazine, calling for new writers. He switched careers, fell in love with
fast cars and the open road, and turned travel writer. In his second book
Fast Cars & Fidgety Feet he writes about riding a ski-mobile in the Arctic,
cycling through Tuscan villages, discovering hidden legends, and wishing
the adventure never ends.
Schloss Neuschwanstein
the most evocative symbol of
nineteenth century Bavaria
towered over the village of
Hohenschwangau. Unfortunately
wed left behind the good
weather in the north, and as we
approached the castle, the Ferrari
growling like a horse champing
50
at the bit at being restrained

after such a wanton gallop, the
weather was a mess of rain and
heavy cloud, but this only added
to the castles charm. Rising like
the strongholds found in stories
penned by the Brothers Grimm
that begin with, A long time
ago in a kingdom far away..., it
Fast Cars &

Fidgety Feet
(Tranquebar,
February 2016,
`350)
is Neuschwansteins tapering
steeples that inspired the castle
in the Walt Disney Pictures logo.
King Ludwig II of Bavaria (often
called Mad King Ludwig for his
eccentricities) commissioned
it as a personal refuge and also
as homage to Richard Wagner,
the German composer, who
wrote very tempestuous music.
His orchestral work, called The
Ride of the Valkyries, is a stormy
piece of classical music full of
trumpets, trombones, cymbals
and kettledrums, and is about
mythical creatures from Norse
mythology. That rainy day, with
thunder providing a constant
WALTER BIBIKOW/AGE FOTOSOTCK/DINODIA
Neuschwanstein Castle dominates the landscape around the village of Hohenschwangau in southwest Bavaria, close to Germanys border with
Austria. It gets about 6,000 visitors a day and was the inspiration for Disneylands Sleeping Beauty Castle and Cinderellas Castle at Disney World.
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BO O K EXTRACT
drum roll, looking up at the castle

towering above the village, I
almost expect Wagners Valkyries
to launch themselves from the tall
turrets of Neuschwanstein and
come riding down the ramparts.
As the story goes, Ludwig II
had more than just an admiration
for Wagners music. He was
fifteen years old when he saw
the composers opera Lohengrin.
What started off as appreciation
of his music soon developed into
love for the composer himself.
We stopped in the village
below for a cup of coffee and got
talking to a cherubic local coach
driver who ferried tourists up
to the castle in a horse carriage.
He was practically offended
when I referred to Ludwig as
the Mad King. While the world
sees Ludwig as the king who
squandered money on fairy tale
castles, Bavarians remember
him fondly. They call him
Unser Kini, which means our
cherished king in the Bavarian

dialect. The carriage driver was
quick to tell me that Ludwig
built Neuschwanstein from his
personal fortune. Since the castle
was built around the 1880s, many
senior citizens from the region
still remember stories that their
grandparents told them about the
king and the construction of the
castle. History may ignorantly
dismiss Ludwig as nutty, but
here in south Bavaria, where his
beautiful castles enhance the
landscape, he is still regarded with
a lot of affection and admiration.
The town of Fssen, 4km from
Neuschwanstein, and the castle
itself, are at the southern end of
the famed German Romantic
Road that is 350km of highway
between Wrzburg and Fssen,
and is studded with quaint old
52
Driving through
Tyrol, Austria,
the writer
chanced upon
medieval
Kitzbhel (top),
a popular ski
resort. Buskers
at Zellberg (bottom), a hiking
destination with
trails that wind
through forests
and meadows.
towns and castles. It earned its

nickname in the 1950s when
travel agents started promoting it
as a romantic drive, and today it
is one of Germanys most popular
touring routes.
I was looking forward to
driving through Fssen: Steve
McQueens motorcycle stunts
from the epic Hollywood movie
The Great Escape were shot there.
Depicting the true events of an
escape attempt made by Allied

airmen from a German POW
camp in Poland during WWII,
The Great Escape is one of my
all-time favourite movies and
always makes it to any list of
great war films.
Once there, I was thrilled when
a local pointed out the exact
meadows around Fssen where
the movies closing sequences
were shot.
RISHAD SAAM MEHTA
History may ignorantly

dismiss Ludwig as nutty,
but here in south Bavaria,
where his beautiful castles enhance the landscape, he is still regarded
with a lot of affection
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
Liquid Gold
FOLLOWING AN OLIVES JOURNEY FROM FARM TO BOTTLE IN ANCONA, ITALY BY PRACHI JOSHI
our shot glasses are lined up

in front of me, each numbered
and containing a thimbleful of
shimmering liquid, ranging from
green to gold in colour. No, Im not at a
bar and there is no alcohol involved. I
am about to be schooled in blind olive
oil tasting. Olive oil is good when you
like it, no rules, you see? says Antonio
Roversi with a twinkle in his eye. Roversi
owns Azienda del Carmine, an olive oil
company in the Le Marche region of
central Italy. The Carmine farm is spread
over several acres of the undulating
hills of Ancona, a district flanked by the
54
Apennine Mountains on one side and the

Adriatic Sea on the other.
We are seated in Roversis office,
which adjoins A3 Passi, the agriturismo
or farm stay, my husband and I are
visiting. Earlier that day, we explored
a small part of the farm, wandering
among the bushy olive trees standing
in neat rows. Their silvery green leaves
shone in the morning sun, and their
branches were weighed down with
ripening fruit, in every shade from
green to deep purple.
Its autumn, olive harvest season,
and my conversation with Roversi is
punctuated by the din of the oil mill

next door. The last couple of years have
been difficult for olive growers, Roversi
tells me. The winter of 2013-14 was very
mild, allowing parasites like the olive
fruit fly to flourish. It was followed by a
wet summer that caused flooding and
large-scale destruction of the years crop.
Although I can see massive crates filled
with olives, Roversi tells me that the crop
is much less than normal. Still the mill is
working through most nights, pressing
olives to extract the greenish-gold oil.
At the tasting table, I pick up the
first glass and breathe deeply, taking
in the lightly perfumed but otherwise
unremarkable scent. The second glass
has no distinguishing odours at all.
Glass three, however, has a sweet
perfume. Do I smell artichokes? I ask
Roversi, and he beams at me. Italian
olive oils usually have the perfume of
almonds, artichokes, or mandarins,
unlike the Spanish ones where banana is
the predominant note, he says. I inhale
deeply from the last glass, and almost
swoon at the full-bodied scents that the
tasting notes tell me are grass, tomato
leaves, and even some mandarin.
Its time to taste and Roversi suggests
that I try two of the four oils. I pick the
first and the last. Though the first oil
had a mildly pleasant aroma, it tastes
of nothing at all and is quite greasy. I
fervently hope that the fourth sample
lives up to its perfume. It doesnt
disappoint, a grassy taste underlying
the sharp flavour. Its pungent bitterness
THE VITALS
Ancona is 303 km/3 hr north of Rome
and 232 km/2.5 hr south of Bologna
by road. It takes 2-4 hours to get to
Ancona by train from either city (www.
trenitalia.com; tickets from 9/`700).
A3 Passis elegant, well-designed
rooms come with all basic amenities
(including free Wi-Fi), private patio,
and swimming pool (Via del Carmine
51, 60020 Ancona; +39-71889403;
aziendadelcarmine.it; doubles from
89/`6,500, including breakfast).
Degustation menu 30/
`2,320. Olive oil tasting available free of
charge on request.
IP CUISINES/INDIAPICTURE
Olive oil can range from

pale gold to bright green in
colour. In general, lighter oils
tend to be mild in flavour,
while the green ones can be
sharp and peppery.
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
lingers at the back of my throat long

after the tasting. Roversi then reveals
what each of the four oils are. The
first is a mass-produced Italian olive
oil, available in supermarkets. The
second is a very bad Greek oil, which
has been chemically treated hence the
lack of perfume, says Roversi. The last
two oils come from the Carmine farm
the milder Leccino and my favourite,
the Ascolana.
Our dinner that night is a fourcourse degustation menu at La Tavola
del Carmine, the restaurant at the
farm. Each dish showcases an oil from
the Carmine arsenal. We begin with
a warming lentil soup with a drizzle
of blended olive oil, followed by a
Parmesan risotto garnished with a
red wine reduction and Frantoio
olive oil, which adds a hint of bitter
almond to the dish. The next course, or
secondo, is juicy pork tenderloin with
a splash of sharp, peppery Ascolana,
which complements the meat perfectly.
For dessert we indulge in a mille-feuille
of chocolate and Chantilly cream,
with a swirl of the Leccino. The mild,
sweet oil adds an interesting depth to
the dolce or dessert.
56
The Ascolana olive oil is the best I

have ever tasted. Of course, just like
wine, olive oil tastes are subjective too.
Roversi agrees. Ascolana olives are
very big and beautiful, and very
expensive. The oil is not too greasy and
has robust flavours that stay in your
mouth longerthe mark of a good olive
oil, he says. Once you have tasted this
farm-to-table olive oil, supermarket
varieties will pale in comparison. Which
explains why I returned from my trip
to Italy clutching two bottles of the
precious stuff.
TASTE TEST
TASTE LIKE A PRO
Use small glasses, shot glasses, or espresso cups.
Fill half the glass with olive oil.
Cover the glass with one hand and warm it by cupping it with the other. Give the cup
a little swirl. The warmth releases the aromas in the oil.
Breathe deeply and smell the oil.
Sip a small quantity of the oil, while breathing in air through your mouth. This is the
strippagio method of airing the oil and allowing it to coat your mouth. This will help the
aroma reach your taste buds.
Now swallow the oil slowly. You might feel a slight burn at the back of your throat,
you may even have to cough (the oil producer usually takes this as a compliment, a
reflection on the good quality of the oil).
In between tastings, eat bread or apple as a palate cleanser.
PHOTO COURTESY: LE MARCHE TOURISM (HARVEST), RUDOLPH KELLY/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES (OIL)
In Le Marche, olives are harvested in October and November. Large nets are placed under the trees and long-handled, vibrating tongs are used to
comb the branches (top); The first pressing of the olives (bottom) yields high quality extra virgin olive oil.
Navigate |
N ATI O N A L PA R K
Seeking the Stripe

TIGERS AND OTHER STARS OF THE JUNGLE IN MADHYA PRADESHS BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK
BY SHEEMA MOOKHERJEE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DHRITIMAN MUKHERJEE
Bandhavgarh National Park has a high density of tigers, and travellers have the opportunity to see them at fairly close quarters.
here is no formula for sighting

a tiger in the wild. But there
is a philosophical outlook one
can have when going on safari
in an Indian forest: to let things take
their course. If you expect to see a tiger
on your very first ride, you have started
on the wrong foot. Instead, trust your
guides (too many people unleash the
disappointment of not seeing a tiger on
them) and delight in their stories. Its
best to let their experience lead you as
they interpret alarm calls, pug marks,
and other subtle signs of the jungle.
We began our recent three-day visit
to Bandhavgarh National Park with a
safari in the Magdhi zone. The mahua
trees were full of fruit, attracting birds
and monkeys. The amaltas trees were
a riot of yellow, and bauhinia creepers
58
bloomed in gaudy profusion, draped

over tall trees. Chitals and langurs
foraged in the shade of gigantic banyans.
It was a beautiful morning, one that
got even better when we saw a female
tiger and three cubs with their kill. We
watched them greedily, taking a break
only for our own quick breakfast, and
returned to photograph the frolicking
cubs and their watchful mother. We had
exceptionally good luck throughout the
trip, spotting six tigers in all.
EXPLORE
One of the most picturesque national

parks in India, Bandhavgarh has a mixed
deciduous forest dominated by a hill,
which according to legend was given to
Lakshman by Rama. In 1968, the government took over this former hunting
ground of the maharajas of Rewa. It has

four zones. The oldest is Tala, where the
vast Chakradhar meadow gives way to
the rocky hill topped by Bandhavgarh
ATLAS
Bandhavgarh National Park,

Madhya Pradesh
Bandhavgarh National Park was
the hunting preserve of the maharajas
of the erstwhile Rewa State, who
are known to have bred
white tigers.
Navigate |
In addition to the rapidly multiplying wild boar population (top left), visitors to Bandhavgarh can see the Malabar pied hornbill (bottom left),
superbly camouflaged nightjars (bottom right) and plenty of spotted deer (top right).
Fort. Halfway uphill, in a grove at the

source of the Charanganga River, lies
an enormous statue of Vishnu in a
reclining pose. There is also a cluster
of man-made caves, some of them
pre-historic.
Magdhi, Khitauli, and Panpatha
zones were added later to expand the
core area. Magdhi has surpassed the
star zone of Tala for tiger sightings
recently. We were told Talas recent
dearth of tigers may be due to territorial
fights between a surging population of
females with cubs, and young males.
Khitauli is great for spotting leopards
and sloth bears, while Panpatha offers
dhole (wild dog) sightings.
60
ANIMALS
Bandhavgarh has among the highest

tiger densities of any Indian national
park, making sightings relatively more
likely. Other animals include the
leopard, sloth bear, wild dog, spotted
deer, and sambar. The gaur population
had dwindled, but herds were reintroduced from Kanha National Park and
have made a comeback.
One morning in Tala, for 20 minutes
we watched a sloth bear scratching
at an anthill and delicately eating its
residents. Smaller mammals, like the
common mongoose, jackal, jungle cat,
and palm civet are also visible. Civets
only appear at dusk and dawn, so are
harder to find, but we did spot one

whizzing up a tree one evening.
The forests are also a birdwatchers
delight. Keep an eye out for the
spectacular black-and-white Malabar
pied hornbill, with its enormous casque
and raucous call.
SAFARI TIMES & COSTS
Tala and Magdhi zones are open from

1 October to 15 June, while Khitauli and
Panpatha are open year-round. Book
safaris online ( forest.mponline.gov.in)
well in advance (as soon as they open
is best), or through your resort, which
eliminates much of the hassle but adds
to the cost.
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There are two safaris every day, at 6.30

a.m. and 2.30 p.m. in winter (Oct-Jan),
and 6 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. in summer
(Feb-Jun). Mornings are pleasantly
refreshing as you watch the forest come
alive with the rays of the sun. Evenings
offer great sightings, especially at dusk.
All Madhya Pradesh national parks are
closed on Wednesday afternoons.
All safaris are in governmentregistered Gypsy vehicles, which
carry up to six people who must be
accompanied by a forest departmentapproved guide. The entry fee is `2,640
per Gypsy at Tala, and `1,320 at the
other zones (foreigners pay a surcharge
per head).
STAY
62
Halfway up the hill to Bandhavgarh Fort lies a gigantic statue of a reclining Vishnu, called
Sheshaiya (top); The forts ramparts (bottom) are a great backdrop to the safaris in the park.
a good budget accommodation (www.

mptourism.com; doubles `5,390 for
room only).
Skays Camp is an offbeat ecolodge
within Tala village, run by experienced
naturalist Satyendra Tiwari, and his
artist wife, Kay Hassall Tiwari. It has
seven double rooms with the feel of a
family home. The couples knowledge of
Bandhavgarhs flora and fauna, and Kays
artistic background, add considerably to
the experience (skayscamp.in; doubles
`5,500 for room only).
SEASONS
The days get warm in March and very

hot from April to June. Early mornings
are chilly from October onwards, and
December and January are cold and

misty. March and June are the best
seasons for sightings as the tall grasses
wither away, and water sources inside the
jungle dry up, drawing the animals out.
Winter is the best time for birdwatching
as the migrant visitors arrive in early
December and leave in March.
GETTING THERE
Two convenient airports are Jabalpur

(165 km/4 hr) and Khajuraho (260
km/6 hr). Most resorts can arrange a
pickup for a fee. The closest rail heads
are Jabalpur, Katni (100 km/2.5 hr),
and Umaria (35 km/45 min). Buses and
private taxis ply between each of these
towns and Tala Gate.
ANIRUDDHA MOOKERJEE (STATUE)
Bandhavgarhs many lodges (most

situated around Tala gate), have rooms
to suit every budget. The better-run
places have good naturalists and all
lodges offer a meal plan. It is best to dine
in-house but there are some tea shops
and cafs around Tala village.
Mahua Kothi is the chic, upscale Taj
Safaris resort. Its price and amenities
stand apart, but the real value additions
are the well-trained naturalists, superb
cuisine and natural ambience. (www.
tajsafaris.com; `30,000 to `48,500 per
person per night sharing, depending
on season; includes all meals, some
alcoholic drinks, and two safaris daily.)
Kings Lodge is an old, reliable favourite.
The individual cottages in minimal,
ethnic style are far apart and afford
a high degree of privacy. Bathrooms
are well-equipped, the linens crisp,
and service prompt. The food is of a
high standard, and there is a small spa
and pool (www.kingslodge.in; doubles
`16,000, including all meals).
Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge is a good
mid-level option close to the Tala Gate.
Rooms are decently sized and newer
structures have an urban feel, while
the older cottages have mud-coated
walls and tribal paintings. Food is the
average Indian/multi-cuisine mix (www.
bandhavgarhjunglelodge.com; 3-day
package for two `17,250, including
meals).
White Tiger Forest Lodge is an MPTDC
property, which enjoys the best location,
just half a kilometre from Tala gate. It
is run better than most government
lodges and has been recently renovated
to comfortably fulfil the expectations of
Navigate |
THE SOUV EN I R
A Bite of Bengal
SIX THINGS TO BRING BACK TO YOUR PANTRY FROM A TRIP TO KOLKATA BY RUMELA BASU
KASUNDI
PANCH PHORON
JHARNA GHEE
Kasundi is more than a mustard sauce. Its

made by blitzing green chillies, mustard
seeds, salt, and mustard oil, and has a
steady presence in Kolkatas grocery
stores. Kasundi works best as a dip with
fried fish or cutlets, or as a condiment with
hot rice and veggies. Piquant aam kasundi
which is blended with raw mangoes is a
summer special. A bottle of the popular
Shubra brand costs `50 for 300 ml and can
be bought at local groceries.
Panch phoron is a five-spice mix of fenugreek seeds (methi), mustard (shorshe),

fennel (mouri), cumin (jeere), and nigella
(kalo jeere); the formula varies from house
to house. Some substitute anise for fennel,
while others use radhuni (wild celery seeds)
in place of mustard or cumin. When they
pop together in hot oil they bring a distinctive taste to Bengali dishes; pumpkin with
black channa (kumror chakka) is a favourite.
A 100-gm-pack costs `10 at local groceries.
Bengali students travelling abroad carry

jars of Jharna ghee, a taste that reminds
them of home and mamas cooking. The
brand that has become synonymous with
quality Bengali ghee has a darker colour
than regular ghee. Its not used for cooking,
but is poured over gorom bhaat bhaja (hot
rice and vegetable fry) or is a dollop of
indulgence over steaming khichuri. Costs
`250 for 500 gm from neighbourhood
grocery stores.
NOLEN GUR
GONDHORAJ LIME
BANDEL CHEESE
Say the words nolen gur and watch Bengalis

get weak in the knees. It is date jaggery
made from the sap of a date palm and is
a winter treat thats eaten with hot luchi
(puris) for breakfast or by itself for dessert.
It forms the liquid centre of a sandesh, or
imparts its unique flavour to rasgullas and
payesh (kheer). The best gur has a rich
brown colour, restrained sweetness, and a
mild caramel aftertaste. Available at most
local sweet shops for about `120 per kilo.
Bengals fragrant gondhoraj lebu is an

indigenous hybrid of orange and lime.
Its name literally translates to king of
aromas. While it tastes wonderful, its the
heavenly scent of the lime that accounts
for its claim to fame. Gondhoraj is perfect
for fragrant desserts, as a marinade for
poached or steamed fish, to jazz up nimbu
pani, or elevate a modest meal of vegetable,
fish curry, or dal. Half a dozen can be
bought at a vegetable market for `20-30.
A memento of colonial times, the crumbly,

salty Bandel cheese comes from a town
of the same name in the Hooghly district
that was once a Portuguese stronghold.
Still made in the age-old way, the two-inch
wide rounds need to soak overnight to
soften and reduce saltiness. Or they can
be crumbled as is over a fresh salad. The
cheese is sold only at J. Johnsons and
S. Panja in New Market, in plain and
smoked varieties that cost `8 a round.
64
NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN (KASUNDI), IP CUISINES/INDIAPICTURE (PANCH PHORON), DIVIYA MEHRA (JHARNA GHEE), MOHAMMED ANWARUL KABIR
CHOUDHURY/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (NOLEN GUR), CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI (GONDHORAJ LIME), UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP/GETTY IMAGES (BANDEL CHEESE)
Bengalis take great pride in their food, and culinary experiences feature on top of the must-do lists of
visitors to Kolkata. The regions cuisine delights fish-lovers, has an affinity for mustard, and offers a
delectable variety of vegetarian dishes. Not surprisingly, some of the best souvenirs to bring back from
Kolkata are those for the pantry.
Navigate |
HER I TAGE
Temple Primates
Pura Dalem Agung, a shrine for Shiva, is the main temple in Balis Monkey Forest Sanctuary (top); Monkeys and their mossy, stone avatars are
found along forest paths (bottom).
andering through Balis

Sacred Monkey Forest
Sanctuary is like walking
into a mythical jungle.
Moss-covered stone statues and temple
ruins are scattered throughout this 27acre park in Ubud that is part nature
reserve and part temple complex. Some
600 Balinese long-tailed macaques live
here amidst the lush foliage. Residents
of the bordering village of Padangtegal
believe that a forest surrounding a
shrine is the sacred abode of holy spirits,
making this a protected,
unspoilt preserve
that is a wonderful
detour from Balis beaches.

The three temples within, believed
to date to the 14th century, illustrate
traditional Balinese temple architecture.
The ruins exude a mystical aura, as
do the statues of native animals and
Balinese figures that you see while
walking along the forest path. Here
a panther, boar, and monkey around
a stone pool, there Komodo dragons
peeping into a stream, further on
dragons and humans with round
eyes and fangs flank staircases. And
its always amusing to see a family of
monkey figurines surrounded by their
living counterparts.
History and nature come together
seamlessly within this reserve. The
monkeys that live here are as significant
as the people of the village who guard
it. Visitors, who may only enter on foot,
are asked not to carry bags or food in
order to avoid confrontation with the
monkeys. Over 10,000 visitors come to

this sanctuary every month. While some
like to watch the frisky primates from a
distance, others are lured solely by the
mossy stone sentinels.
THE VITALS
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary or
Mandala Suci Wenara Wana is in the
town of Ubud, 30 km/1 hr north of Balis
capital Denpasar. The sanctuary is just
off Monkey Forest Street, one of Ubuds
main streets. Temple entry only for
those who want to pray and are dressed
in traditional Balinese prayer clothes.
Warning Some tourists have been
bitten and robbed by monkeys here,
so dont carry any food or bags, not
even a camera bag. Dont try to lure the
monkeys or touch them. Strictly follow
instructions provided at the entrance.
(monkeyforestubud.com; open 8 a.m.6 p.m. daily except one holiday in March;
entry IDR30,000/`141.)
R.M. NUNES/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (TEMPLE), KONSTANTIN TRUBAVIN/EASY FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (MONKEY)
AWAY FROM BALIS BEACHES, AN INLAND DETOUR TO UBUDS SACRED

MONKEY FOREST SANCTUARY BY RUMELA BASU
Navigate |
THE I N S I D E R
Exotic iced lattes at

G&B Coffee, in Grand Central
Market; French-inspired fare and
rooftop views at Perch, in the
revived downtown district (left).
Lights, Camera, Los Angeles
came to think of Los Angeles as the

magic placea city where beautiful
people from movie screens and
television sets ran wild. Or at least
ran errands. There was Marisa Tomei at
the Echo Park Crafts Fair on a Saturday
morning. There was Sulu from the
new Star Trek films weightlifting
at my neighbourhood gym. I once
was introduced to Matthew Weiner,
the creator of Mad Men, at a fancy
Hollywood party. He told me I had a
great name.
It sounds like a Jewish gangster,
he said. I dined out on that story for
months.
After a decade in New York City
working as a journalist, I had moved
west in 2013 to write movies. Los
Angeles was a company town and, man,
68
was the company good. I wasnt alone.

The Style section of the New York Times
chronicled a mass creative exodus from
Brooklyn to L.A.s east side. Though
John Lennon, its said, once referred
to my adopted home as just a big
parking lot, L.A. was apparently now
irresistible to the culturally attuned.
I was so convinced of my screenwriter mission that I bought a two-bedroom house with an apricot tree in the
backyard. I literally had roots in L.A.,
but after six months I still wasnt sure
I belonged here. My complaints were
hardly original. Early dinners, nobody
walks. When the novelty of a good
celebrity sighting wore off, what were
you left with? Strip malls and doughnut shops. I went to the artist Jenny
Yurshanskys exhibition Blacklisted:
A Planted Allegory at nearby Pitzer

College, where she used 130 species of
invasive plants as a way to talk about
immigration. I left feeling like a nonnative plant myself. There were a
million cars on the road, but nobody
was in a rush to get anywhere. Where
was the urgency?
I have a theory about why L.A. is the
No Worries capital of the worldand
why that just might be a blessing for
anyone as tightly wound as I am.
SIGN OF THE TIMES
Los Angeles iconic Hollywood sign
actually started out as an advertisement for a real estate development
called Hollywoodland. Now, it has its
own Twitter handle, Facebook page, and
even a website.
DYLAN + JENI (MAN), JESSICA SAMPLE (BAR)
BREATHING EASY IN THE MAGICAL, HOPEFUL CITY BY MICKEY RAPKIN
Navigate |
THE I N S I D E R
By the time Angelenos wake up, the

rest of the world has already had a full
day. Anything terrible that was going to
happen probably happened while you
were asleep. Namaste. New Yorkers like
to believe they live in the centre of
the universe. But once you leave, the
world opens up in surprising ways.
Slowly, Los Angeless secrets began
to reveal themselves.
This is a city that likes a good story.
Nowhere more so than downtown.
With some regularity I started going
to The Varnish, a speakeasy hidden
inside Coles, one of two sandwich shops
that claim to be the birthplace of the
French dip (the other is Philippes). As
one legend has it, the French dip was
invented to appease a customer with
sore gums who found his sandwichs
French roll too crusty; dipping it in beef
jus made it easier to chew. Who knows
if this is true, but it sounds true. Which
in Hollywood, youll quickly realise,
70
is the same thing. On Sunday nights,

I walk clear through Coles toward an
unmarked wooden door at the back of
the eatery. Its less a door than a time
machine, opening to reveal a secret
windowless bar lit low and romantic.

Pick your favourite spirit and let a
bartender mix a serious cocktail while
a bass player entertains the tiny crowd.
What makes the drinks so good? It
starts with hand-cut ice.
Now I admit there is something twee
about a world that is so curated. But
I also appreciate the irony. This town
famous for exporting mind-numbing
action sequels around the world has
a culinary movement firmly about
authenticity and buying hyper-local.
Thats what makes the Grand Central
Market so electric. Over the past
two years, its owner, Adele Yellina
petite, 60-something firecrackerhas
transformed a century-old downtown
food court into a culinary destination, a
place where longtime pupusa vendors
coexist with such upstart foodie
operations as Eggslut and G&B Coffee
(home of the iced almond/macadamia
milk latte). In a city obsessed with the
JESSICA SAMPLE (MENSWEAR), 13 PHOTO/REDUX (CONCERT HALL)
Raan and Shea Parton (left), brothers and founders of L.A. menswear brand Apolis; downtown anchor Disney Concert Hall (right); The sunset at
Santa Monica is not a sight easily forgotten (bottom).
Navigate |
THE I N S I D E R
perfect hamburger, there is no better fix

for my money than Belcampo Meat Co.,
an organic California farm that operates
a lunch counter out of the market.
Belcampos patties, a handsome butcher
told me, are made with trims from the
houses best cuts. Remember to bring
a towelette to wipe the juice off your
fingers. Better yet, just lick them.
For a while I thought nobody in
L.A. ever really worked. With no
reason to rush, you can get to know
the entrepreneur brave enough to open
an 800-square-foot caf that stakes its
reputation on one thing: toast. At tiny
Sqirl, wedged between beauty shops
and bodegas in hip Silver Lake, the
lunchtime line stretches out the door
and around the corner, with people
waiting for owner Jessica Koslow to
slather house-made wild blackberry
and Meyer lemon jam all the way to
the edge of a thick slice of brioche.
For $4.50/`308, it tastes like an
72
I walk clear through Coles

toward an unmarked wooden
door at the back of the eatery.
Its less a door than a time
machine, opening to reveal a
secret windowless bar lit low
and romantic
elementary-school snow day. Were all
just nuts trying to get a Sqirl.
The thing is, in L.A. we crave
authenticity not only in food but in
our experiences. It turns out that
writing movies is more stressful than
I imagined. I began seeking solace in
an unexpected place: a Korean bath.
These oases are hidden along Wilshire
Boulevard, but I am partial to Natura
Spa, a budget-friendly escape in the
basement of a former department store
in Koreatown. Just $15/`1,029 gets
you entry to a steam room, sauna, and
soaking tubs. The lights are dim. The
conversation, if any, never rises above a

hum. If you go, a tip: Move from the
dry heat of the sauna to the wet heat of
the steam room before plunging into
an icy bath. And let the folds of your
brain relax.
Even as I write this, I know how
L.A. it sounds. A hippie trip to a
subterranean spa? Brioche toast?
And Im not ready to call myself an
Angeleno. I miss New York like a
phantom limb; theres an attitude
forever embedded in my DNA despite
my zip code. But I breathe a little
easier here despite the smog. I eat a
little better. I have come to appreciate
Los Angeles for a million reasons and
also for one: Did I mention the light?
Damn, its gorgeous. Sometimes that
light makes you see how lonely you are.
Or how successful other people are. Or
even how famous they are. But on a
good day, that light can also make you
feel hopeful.
DYLAN + JENI (PLATES, MARKET)
Lunch at Silver Lakes Sqirl (left), known for its jam-topped brioche toast; Multicultural culinary destination Grand Central Market (right).
Navigate |
ECOTOU R I S M
Power to the People
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve introduces

visitors to the wonders of South Africas
Western Cape. The 6,200-acre sanctuary
encompasses vast stretches of milkwood
forests, hillsides carpeted with blooms, and
the waters of Walker Bay, inhabited by great
white sharks, southern right whales, seals,
penguins, and dolphins.
notable thing is taking

place around the globe:
Communities and conservation
entrepreneurs are creating
private nature reserves, from coral
lagoons in Asia to sanctuaries in the
Americas. Travellers to Africa will find
private wildlife reserves near national
parks. Case in point: South Africas
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve,
which manages 6,178 acres of reclaimed
74
habitat, including native fynbos

shrubland harbouring sunbirds.
Two hours southeast of Cape Town,
Grootbosa National Geographic
Unique Lodge of the Worldwas
a mosaic of abandoned farms and
degraded lands when Michael Lutzeyer
laid eyes on it in 1991. Here was one
of Earths rarest ecosystems, what
botanists call the Cape Floral Kingdom,
with no protection, says the Cape Town
native. My wife and I pulled together

what cash we could to conserve it
ourselves. Today Grootbos employs
villagers and funds such community
programs as a horticulture college
offering job training for unemployed
youth. It joins a worldwide trend of
private reserves that are producing
conservation success stories, a good
thing for our natural worldand
us travellers.
PHOTO COURTESY: GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE
CONSERVATION STORIES THAT BENEFIT THE PLANETAND US TRAVELLERS BY COSTAS CHRIST
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ECOTOU R I S M
WILD CARDS
Kipling Camp, Madhya Pradesh

Kipling near Kanha National Park is run by the Wrights, a
family of conservationists that have dedicated their lives to
protecting the tiger and the forests it inhabits. The nine-acre
camp has 15 rooms, and is surrounded by 15 acres of wild
forest. All cottages are made with local materials, solar energy
is used as much as possible, and sewage is filtered using natural
materials. But what keeps guests returning is the warm service,
outrageous tiger tales, and bath time with Tara, the camps
rescued elephant (www.kiplingcamp.com; 07649-277218; for
bookings call 011-65196377; doubles from `24,000).
Elephant Valley, Tamil Nadu

About 20 kilometres from the bustle of Kodaikanal, Elephant
Valley sprawls over 100 acres of the Palani Hills. A nature
reserve, organic farm andmost importantly an elephant
migration corridor, Elephant Valley puts the pachyderms
and the regions thriving biodiversity first. Each of the 20
bungalows has rejuvenating views: of the Shola forests, and
occasionally, the elephants that continue to use this route
(duneecogroup.com/our-hotels/elephant-valley; 78670 04398;
for bookings call 41326 56351; doubles from `3,300).
76
Jilling Estate,
Uttarakhand
Run by ex-fighter pilot and
tea planter Steve Lal and his
wife Parvati, Jilling Estate
is adored by hikers who
frequent the Kumaon. It
covers about 50 acres of oak
and rhododendron (pictured)
forests, and has only four
cottages. Peak experiences
include morning views of
the snow-cloaked Nanda
Devi mountain and bonfire
evenings in the company of
the lovely owners. Getting to
Jilling is a bit of a hike: Its
a two-kilometre uphill walk
from the closest roadhead,
but ponies can be organised
if required (jilling.net;
97587 55704, 94123 83348;
doubles from `5,000,
including all meals).
Wildernest, Goa
Encompassing 450 acres of
the Chorla Ghats, Wildernest
secures a crucial wildlife
corridor connecting Goas
Mhadei and Bhimgad
wildlife sanctuaries. All
cottages have spectacular
views, some of the roaring
Dudhsagar waterfalls,
others of langur families
monkeying around in the
trees outside. Accompany
the eco-resorts enthusiastic
naturalists on walks around
the property for sightings
of unusual birds, colourful
lizards, and if luck is with
you, the gorgeous Malabar
pit viper (pictured).
Wildernests other perks
include a swimming pool
with serene valley views,
and a kitchen that serves
top-notch Goan food (08323266911; www.wildernestgoa.com; doubles from
`5,900, includes food and
activities).
Mojo Retreat, Karnataka

Mojos simple, no-frills rooms
are surrounded by dense
jungle that resounds with
bird call in the day and the
drone of cicadas by night.
It is home to the Malabar
gliding tree frog (pictured),
jewel beetles, flamboyant
caterpillars, and owners Sujata and Anurag Goel. Sujata is a
botanist, Anurag a microbiologist, and Mojo is their 20-acre
forest farm in Coorg, where they grow cardamom, coffee, black
pepper, and kokum. Their philosophy: Nurture the natural
rainforest ecosystem and the produce will flourish. Their cook
makes a mean Coorgi pork curry. (www.rainforestours.com;
94801 04640; doubles from `2,000, including breakfast.)
PHOTO COURTESY: KIPLING CAMP (DINING ROOM), ORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK (FLOWERS), DINODIA (BRIDGE), SUJATA GOEL (FROG),
ZEESHAN MIRZA/EPHOTOCORP/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (SNAKE)
Five Indian eco-resorts that are nestled inside vast private reserves BY GINA TANIK
SUMMER SPECIAL
100
thailand
Beaches, adventure, and culinary
delights served up in style
118
south korea
A temple stay dips into the
countrys Buddhist heritage
PAUL STEEL/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
90
philippines
Four ways to navigate Bohols
dreamy islands
77
Summer Special |
SOU THEAST AS I A
Mangroves fringe the tip of Peninsular

Malaysia, in Johor, the southernmost
reach of mainland Asia.
78
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
JEWEL
MALAYS IA
OF MALAYSIA
A chance encounter on a train sparks a journey into the

countrys most colourful state
BY J O H N K R I C H
P H OTO G R A P H S BY J U ST I N G UA R I G L I A
79
SOU THEAST AS I A
IT ALL
STARTED WITH
an invitation to a palace. And now Im on
a trip to the End of the Earth.
Thats what locals once called Tanjung
Piai, a coastal nub of mangroves in Johor,
Malaysia, that marks the lowest reaches
of the lengthy Malay Peninsula and the
southernmost point of mainland Asia.
The spot is now a postage stampsize
national park with a circuit of boardwalks raised above eerily gnarled roots.
Rawa Islands soothing blues are a

sensory treat for travellers.
80
Here horseshoe and fiddler crabs share a mud bath,

kingfishers dive into the waters to spear fish, and carved wooden signs convey maxims in English, such as Live happily with
wilderness! and He who conquers his own heart, conquers
the world!
I conquer the equatorial heat to emerge, not quite wilted, from
the forest onto the shore of the choppy, green Strait of Malacca,
its horizon lined with long-distance oil tankers. A rather rusted
globe symbolically marks lands end. Yet its taken me only a little
over an hour after exiting Singapore customs to get here.
Separated from its globalized island neighbour by a mere
kilometre-long causeway, Johor is the second largest and most
varied of the 11 states that make up Peninsular Malaysia, a crossroads realm crammed with both ecological and ethnic diversity.
Fittingly named by Arab traders after their word for jewel,
this little-hyped destination encompasses Robinson Crusoe-like
island havens, barely trampled rainforests, and aboriginal refuges. And though it does import theme parks (hello, Hello Kitty
Town), Johor, seat of the ancient Johor-Riau empire, remains
fiercely proud of its sweeping history and still powerful sultan: a
Magic Kingdom, for real.
I might never have discovered the place or its royal provenance if not for one of those serendipitous travel encounters.
Eight years back, I was approached in a train compartment in
India by a charming woman in a flowing gown, whose third son
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MALAYS IA
From the greens of its

lush forests to the showy
reds of a traditional music
group, Johor is anything
but monochrome.
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mistook me for a Discovery Channel host. Her husband, with elegant military bearing, explained they had come from Malaysia
to visit their eldest son, who was serving in the Indian Army. I
was about to tell them I lived in Malaysia as well, when a bodyguard in the next row ordered me to address them as Your Royal Highnesses. Not long after, I got an invitation to visit Raja
Zarith Sofiah and Tunku Ibrahim Ismail, then the princess and
prince of Johor. (In 2010, the prince inherited the title of sultan.)
I soon accepted and found myself being feted by the Oxfordeducated princess with servant-borne luncheons of jackfruit
curries in Johors Palace of the Rainbow Sands. And the people
think we eat a whole goat and lamb at one sitting! the prince
joked, nonetheless offering me an exclusive peek at stables of
polo ponies and a collection of customized luxury cars and vintage limos, to go with the private jet and yacht, playthings of
the worlds richest royals youve never heard of. For two years
running, I was also given a rare chance to tag along on Tunku
Ibrahims annual kembaraa Malay word evoking any sort of
journey, distant or near, spiritual or dutiful. During four ceremony-packed days each summer, this modern monarch took a
motorcycle trip around his steamy kingdom. A kilometre-long
caravan of fellow Harley bikers followed, rumbling through elephant crossings and descending on rural villages like a pack of
charitable Hells Angels. (The sultan recently switched to private
bus for his annual kembara.)
Now Im attempting my own kembarain a rented fourwheelerto find the Johor thats more unofficial.
Like most travellers, my point of entry is the sprawling state
capital of Johor Bahru. With 2,00,000 Johoreans making the
daily commute to wealthier Singapore, J.B., as its colloquially
called by all its denizens, has long suffered by comparison. Yet
this is where I get a first taste of Johors genuine flavour. Navigating downtowns warren of malls on a muggy June night, I
meet one of many renegade Singaporeans who abandon their
celebrated food courts to seek out less mass-produced fare
across the border. Mild-mannered, middle-aged blogger Tony
Boey, who calls himself Johorkaki, eagerly guides me down
through an area called Meldrum Walk to back alleys lined with
traditional hawkers. Retired from the Singapore civil service, he
has been leading food tours since 2012.
Hopping between wheeled stands with undisguised glee, my
guide insists I savour a Teochew oyster cake made with eggs,
Mist veils Johors typically bountiful landscape. Facing page: Roasted pig and red bean cakes (top left) displayed for a festival in the capital of
Johor Bahru; young bomo (shaman) apprentices readying for the kuda kepang, a traditional Javanese dance (top right); the edible custard-like
interior of a durian (bottom right); an Indian-Malaysian shopkeeper in Johor Bahrus Old Town (bottom left).
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dark soy sauce, and tapioca flour; confetti-thin noodles in anchovy broth; and hyper-fresh stingray grilled in banana leaf
and slathered with fiery sambal sauce. Can you top that? Boey
says, even as he leaps up for something else. You havent been in
Johor until youve had its not-to-miss dishes! He presents me
with a heaped pyramid of biryani gam, a lamb pilaf covered in
a thin tent of omelette, then Johor laksa, a tamarind-tinged fish
stew with spaghetti. Its said the great Sultan Abu Bakar created
the dish himself, as he was always bringing back the best from
Europe, he explains. Feasts fit for a king come cheap here.
As mixed as the cuisine, downtown J.B. is a hotpot of peopleseven by multi-ethnic Malaysias standards. Buddhist,
Sikh, and Hindu temples line a main street. An Old Town
of mouldering, pastel-coloured buildings finds Chinese bun
makers, grandly moustachioed Indian barbers, and Malay bohemian types peacefully coexisting. Locals may identify themselves
as Bugi, Javanese, Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Hakka, Tamil,
Keralan, and Yemeni; or as Sufi, Taoist, Buddhist, Confucian,
animist, Christian, or Hindu.
Founded in 1855, the city burgeoned into a showplace for the
Anglophile ambitions of the flamboyant Abu Bakar when he became the sultan in 1886. So an assembly of monuments more
Victorian than Asian command bluffs overlooking the Johor
Strait, built to impress. The gleaming white Sultan Abu Bakar
State Mosque affords sunset views from its minarets (which
were designed to look like Victorian clock towers), and glimpses
of solitary worshippers in its vast spaces below. But I find Johors
main palace, a gracefully colonial compound, closed for renovation (though it has since reopened).
Everything has to be perfect for the coronation, explains a
court curator, reminding me that Sultan Ibrahims official installation, in the works for years, promises to be one of Asias most
resplendent. (The sultans coronation was held in March 2015.)
Instead, he points me to a lesser known site for communing with Johors past. I get lost on winding roads before I come
upon the royal graveyards, hidden behind one of J.B.s forested
hills. The resting places of recent rulers are marked by marble
mausoleums, but the fluted headstones of the dynastic founders,
etched in Arabic script, have a greater authority and beauty.
To delve into more history, I drive an hour and a half northeast to Johor Lama (old Johor). Up a thickly forested hill, I get
to an A-framed museum that enjoys a panorama of the wide,
sun-dappled Johor River. Constructed in 1540, the fort that
once stood here lasted until the Portuguese destroyed it in 1587.
Only a moss-covered square remains, like some giant discarded
Lego piece.
THIS WHETS MY APPETITE for a drive up the rest of Johors
east coast. The route along the way is brilliantly green but a kind
of tropical trompe loeil: Palm oil plantations in endless rows of
stunted, leafy trees create an unpeopled landscape both wild and
ordered.
I arrive at Mersing, a quiet port townfull of backpacker
innsthat serves as a departure point for boats to Johors six
A confection of Western and Moorish styles, the Sultan Ibrahim mosque was built in the Royal City of Muar in 1930. Its riverside grounds
feature an antique sundial for determining prayer times and also provide an ideal spot for quiet conversations.
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MALAYS IA
In Johor Bahru, a vendor

sells bundles of rambutan, a
lychee-like fruit with a hairy
(rambut in Malay) shell,
native to Southeast Asia.
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Thick forests of palm trees cover

parts of Peninsular Malaysia,
including Johor. The region has a
thriving palm oil industry as well.
XPACIFICA/TERRA/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
MALAYS IA
SOU THEAST AS I A
temples, and restaurants wreathed in sea mists and brine.

inhabited islands. But there are no ferries in sight. I negotiate
Still, no backwater can beat Muar, Johors northernmost city.
privately with the owner of a small speedboat I hope is seaworThough this harbour was once coveted by the British, Im not
thy. The boat bucks wildly at each wave in the South China Sea,
prepared for such an overdose of past grandeur. A huge mosque,
making for a breathtaking hour-long cruise to the nearest isle,
half-Western and half-Moorish in style, guards the mouth of
Rawa. Along the way, I ask to step onto tiny rocky islets that
a wide muddy river, where boys dive for dwindling oysters and
appear straight out of travel agency posters: white sand, transone creaky ferry carries tourists up and down. An antique
parent waters, a single drooping palm tree placed just so. Rawa,
clock tower and equally English customs house preside over a
too, is one sweep of sand, where I jump from the dock with snorramshackle quay that seems the perfect setting for some
kel and mask to view colourful fish in the translucent waters.
Conradian tale of colonizers losing their way in the swampy
But this all seems too civilized, so I ask the boatman to drop me
eternity of the Orient. I gravitate toward a single city block
on an isolated stretch of Pulau Besar, where there is just a long
known throughout Johor as Glutton Street and eat my way
beach and two sets of thatched chalets. Later Im primed for
from one fresh Chinese noodle joint to another.
more island-hopping, and with the far-flung Pulau Aur mainly
Im hoping these dishes will power me on a hike through
for serious divers, I backtrack to take a chance on Pulau Tinggi.
Endau Rompin National Park, over 800 square kilometres
Here I find my true Johorean idyll. The waters are robins-egg
of hilly wilderness that straddles the states northern border.
blue, a waterfall is right for plunging, and theres even a fishing
When your native habitat is the Upper West Side of Manhattan,
hamlet where the villagers greet me from porches, then run inyou dont enter a hundred-million-year-old rainforest lightly.
side to show me their documents. UN refugee! they cry proudNot without repellent, anyhow. But exploring Endau Rompin
ly. Myanmar! Myanmar! The owner of the Warung (groNational Park turns out to
cery) Aminah shows off
be an easy-going affair.
three daughters at sewing
I arrive early enough
machines inside, but beto immediately board a
moans, They go to school
longboat for a relaxed
in Mersing. After that,
journey over the Endau
they never come back. The
Rivers mini-rapids to the
island way is dying.
main trailhead of Kuala
With nothing much to
Jasin. With green hills
do but watch the sunset,
and heavy underbrush,
locals and visitors alike
the scenery here is not so
perk up at the welcome
much postcard-perfect as
sight of a wheelbarrow beprehistoric.
ing rolled down the beach,
In the park, young men
fully loaded with huge,
from the nearby Orang
spiky grenades that turn
Asli (original people)
out to be durians. (The
aboriginal
village
of
name derives from the
Kampung Peta serve as enMalay word for thorn.)
gaging guides. Mine says
Based on the speed with
that, next time, you come
which Johoreans beg for
to my house for a true taste
them to be cut open, Id
of jungle. Special leaves
say this king of fruits, as
Kota Iskandar, Johors administrative centre, is a great example of regional
and herbs only we know to
its called throughout Asia,
Islamic architecture.
find and my mom knows
rivals the sultan in terms
to cook! Later, Im not surprised when he picks up the scent and
of sheer esteem. Never mind that the Singapore rail network
thudding steps of an elephant herd just out of sight.
bans these sulphuric stink bombs. The durian is the symbol of
Im content to spot monkeys and boar. I learn to pick leeches
this realms fecundity, a carb-loaded caramel that literally falls
from my ankles like a pro. I ford wide streams as I travel along
from the trees. Unable to resist the succulent, kidney-shaped
the 26-kilometre barely worn circuit of trails, which leads to
pieces passed lovingly to me, and emboldened by hunger from
pristine waterfalls through rainforest that becomes cathedralthe days swims, I finally get past the smell and get initiated into
tall and all-encompassing. In just a day, this place restores my
the cult. Before long, I cant wait to break the next one open. I
spirit to its pre-anything state.
learn to wash them down, and wash hands, with water poured
From the palace to the rainforest, sometimes life, the biggest
from the empty shells.
kembara of them all, takes you to unexpected placesplaces
After returning to mainland J.B. for a change of clothes
such as multicultural Johor, unpackaged and unapologetic, a
and a hot shower, I head out along Johors more settled west
crossroads grab bag where anyone can end up feeling at home.
coast. Disdaining Malaysias main north-south highway, I stick
to lovely two-laners, skirting the sea or cloaked in tall palms.
I meander through fishing villages dominated by simple
John Krichs most recent travel book, A Fork in Asias Road,
turquoise-domed mosques, past fields of pineapple. Most of the
is a collection of food writing. He is based in Kuala Lumpur.
village of Kukupwhere tourists dine on crustaceans plucked
Justin GuariGlia is celebrating his 16th year as a contributing
fresh off a fleet of trawlerssits atop long piers, its houses,
photographer at National Geographic Traveler (U.S.).
88
NAZARUDDIN WIJEE/MOMENT /GETTY IMAGES
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Orientation
The state of Johor is located at the

southernmost end of Peninsular Malaysia, and
is a 335 km/3.5 hr-drive southeast of Kuala
Lumpur. The Strait of Johor lies to its south
and separates Johor and Singapore. Johor is
still a diamond in the rough: with some spots
lacking in polish, but with riches worth digging
for. Its possible to drive from the bottom to
the top of the state in under three hours.
Visas
Seasons
Stay
There are no direct flights from India to

Johor. Daily, direct flights connect New Delhi
and Mumbai to Kuala Lumpur. There are
inexpensive (about `1,300), frequent flights
from Kuala Lumpur to Johor daily (1 hr).
Mersing
Pulau Besar
Mersing Marine Park Pulau Aur
Gunung Ledang
National Park
Pulau Tinggi
Johor
Endau-Kota Tinggi
Wildlife Reserve
Muar
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Gunung Belumut
Recreational
Forest
St
ra
it
of
M
ala
cca
Johor Lama
Johor Bahru
Pulau Kukup N.P.
Getting There
Pulau Rawa
Endau Rompin
National Park
Kukup
Tanjung Piai
National Park
20
0 mi
0 km
Indian travellers to Malaysia require a visa. The

application form and list of documents required for a
VTR visa (visa without reference) can be downloaded
at www.vfsglobal.com. Applications can be submitted
at VFS centres at Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Kolkata,
Chandigarh, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Pune, or
Ahmedabad. The visa takes 4-6 days to process
depending on the city, and costs `3,400 (inclusive of
service charge).
Malaysia experiences tropical weather all year, and
the temperature hovers around 30C. At one degree
of latitude above the Equator, Johor receives rainfall
on most days of the year, though it is the heaviest
between November and January. Endau Rompin
National Park is more crowded in June, July, and
August, but it is also the time for the best durian and
other fruits. The park is closed November to March.
Johor lacks high-end hotels outside the big
cities. That said, few lodgings cost more than
MYR300/`4950. Some of the better ones:
Thistle Johor Bahru hotel, with grand views of
the Johor Strait (www.thistle.com; doubles from
MYR370/`6,065; including breakfast); Puteri Pacific,
in Johor Bahrus city centre (www.puteripacific.com;
doubles from MYR193/`3,160; excluding meals);
Hotel Jen Puteri Harbour, the newest in the state
and next to the Legoland theme park in the rising
southern Johor city of Nusajaya (www.hoteljen.
com; doubles from MYR288/`4,700; excluding
meals); the passable Hotel Havanita, in Mersing
(though theres no Latin atmosphere or decent
breakfast) (www.hotelhavanita.com.my; doubles from
MYR170/`2,790; including breakfast); and Riverview
Hotel in Muar (www.riverviewhotel.com.my; doubles
from MYR110/`1,800; excluding meals). Rawa Island
Resort off the east coast of Johor is the posh way to
do the islands (www.rawaislandresort.com).
20
SINGAPORE
trait
ore S
gap
Sin
Johor
Strait
Johor River
A
Johor, Malaysia
2nd Proof
Traveler
2/3/15
Eat
In Johor Bahrus
Meldrum Walk area,
Mamak stalls offer spicy
mutton stew with rice.
Indian joints feature
flaky, grilled roti canai.
Kedai Kopi Kin Wah,
in the Old Town draws
morning crowds for its
authentic breakfast,
which includes kaya
toast (bread with
a coconut and egg
spread) (8, Jalan Trus,
Bandar Johor Bahru,
80000 Johor Bahru).
The menu at the Myra
Bistro, in the M Suites
Hotel, lists some
hard-to-find Johorean
specialties (16, Jalan
Bertingkat Skudai,
80200 Johor Bahru).
In the fishing village of
Kukup, fish restaurants
serve shrimp straight
from the sea. Outside
Kluang, Zenxin Organic
Park whips up dragon
fruit shakes and platters
of steamed veggies
from its farm (Plots 47A
& 47B, Batu 9, Jalan
Batu Pahat, Kluang,
80600 Johor Bahru).
Atlas
VIETNAM
South China
Sea
MALAYSIA
MALAYSIA
Kuala Lumpur
Johor
SINGAPORE
l With nine hereditary

rulers, Malaysia has
more sultans than any
other country.
l Malaysia accounts
for 44 per cent of
international exports of
palm oil.
l On the outskirts of
Johor Bahru, the Hindu
temple Arulmigu Sri
Rajakaliamman has
an interior covered
almost entirely in glass
mosaics.
INTERNATIONAL MAPPING
THE GUIDE
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Its a
Wonderful
World
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PHILIPPIN ES
Sunny, laid-back Bohol has lovable creatures,

serene beaches, and magical hills: Four ways to
navigate this cluster of Filipino islands
Locals and tourists alike flock to Bohols beaches

to enjoy a dip in the warm waters or a lazy cruise
on a banca, a traditional Filipino boat. Alona
Beach, on Panglao Island is very popular and
home to many four- and five-star resorts.
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XXXXXXXXXXXX
LUCA
TETTONI/TERRA/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
(XXXXXXXXX)
By Kamakshi Ayyar
SOU THEAST AS I A
Early morning boat rides are rewarded

with splendid sightings of spinner
dolphins. They get their name from the
twists, turns, and somersaults they love
performing as they leap over the water.
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The
Bohol countryside was like the landscapes

I drew as a child. Skies were a soothing
powder blue, with olive-green hills rolling
in the background, framing swaying fields of lime-green grass.
Colourful flowers and thatched rural homes lined the roads, and
cattle grazed leisurely further behind. The colours were straight
out of a box of crayonsuncomplicated and comforting. After
the chaos of Manila, exploring Bohol was like hitting the reset
button in my brain.
Manila has its pros. Big city lovers will enjoy the Filipino
capitals thriving food scene and nightlife, while history buffs can
spend hours walking the narrow cobbled streets of Intramuros,
the citys oldest and most historic district. The malls are big
enough to log all 10,000 Fitbit steps we are said to need to
maintain peak health. But a true taste of the Philippines comes
from getting out of the city. And with over 7,000 islands, spread
out just north of Indonesia, theres plenty of choice.
About an hours flight south of Manila we landed in
Tagbilaran, a small city and gateway to the Bohol islands. It
was a nondescript place and all I remember about it is that
all the autorickshaws and tricycles had spiritual messages
painted behind them. Our guide said this was in accordance
with an official city directive to prevent inappropriate content
on public streets. From Tagbilaran, we drove about 45 minutes
further southwest to our hotel. Most resorts in Bohol province
are located on the sandy beaches of Panglao, one of the smaller
islands in the cluster, connected to Bohol Island by a bridge.
The surrounding islands of Mahanay and Banacon are a nature
lovers dream. Visitors can hang out with Yoda-like tarsiers, dive
in the clear waters, gaze at fireflies on a river cruise, and get an
adrenaline rush at the Chocolate Hills Adventure Park.
3 oclock! 11 oclock! 7 oclock! Under our boat! My head

couldnt turn fast enough to keep up with the calls. Everywhere
I looked, grey spinner dolphins bounded over the waves, shining
in the morning sun. They somersaulted through the air, swam by
our boat, and disappeared into the incredibly blue depths only to
reappear as ghostly shadows when they came up for air. Cheer
them on, our guide Cecile said, they love an audience.
The hour or so that we spent following dolphins in the Bohol
Sea more than made up for the unearthly wake-up call we had
received at 4.15 that morning. Dolphins are most active between
5.30 a.m. and 8.30 a.m., so by 5.30 we were on a boat, enjoying a
beautiful sunrise and scanning the seas for hints of grey. For about
two hours, we motored around from one potential sighting spot
to the next, without any luck. We napped while we waited, lulled
by the warm morning sun, endless blue waters, salty sea breeze,
and complete lack of dolphins. Finally, Cecile got the newsthat
there were dolphins up ahead. Suddenly everyone was awake,
cameras at the ready. Once we got closer, our boatman let us
clamber out to the bow, and hang our feet along the edge to get
a better view. And what a view it was. (Cecile V. Remolador, +639237272143; PHP1,895/`2,680 per person. Rides usually last
3.5 hours. Carry a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen, as it can get
hot, but you wont need a swimsuit or change of clothes. The
seas are gentle, but those prone to seasickness should pop a
prophylactic before boarding the boat.)
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RISHAD SAAM MEHTA
Following Dolphins
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Up-Close And Personal

With Tarsiers
It was looking right at me. The pint-sized, furry creature, a cross
between Yoda from Star Wars and E.T., stared at me with its
massive, milk-chocolate eyes. The tarsiers twig-like appendages clung to a tree trunk, guardedly moving a millimetre or so up
and down, as it eyed the towering humans around it, giving us a
bit of a stink eye. Wed arrived at midday, right in the middle of
the nocturnal animals sleep cycle, which perhaps explains the
less than enthusiastic welcome we got.
Tarsiers are prosimians, a primitive primate group that
includes lemurs and lorises. Found in only a handful of Asian
countries, including Indonesia, Brunei, and Malaysia, tarsiers
are the focus of the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary enclosure in
Corella, on Bohol Island, which I was visiting.
Its unique physical characteristics and spunky (some might
say aggressive) personality make the tarsier one of the most
interesting creatures Ive ever seen.
No bigger than the palm of an adult human male, with huge eyes
and ears that resemble satellite dishes, tarsiers are fascinating
animals. Cute as they look, they are not very sociable, and each
tarsier requires about a hectare of forest space, which it roams
at night. They detest confined spaces so much that if placed in
cages, they are known to kill themselves by banging their heads
against the rods. Tarsiers are threatened by depleting natural
habitats and hunters, both human and animal, and are difficult
to spot in the wild. Groups like the Philippine Tarsier Foundation
are working to protect this animal, and the Philippine Tarsier
Sanctuary offers a great opportunity to catch a glimpse of these
unique creatures. (www.tarsierfoundation.org; open 8.30 a.m.4.30 p.m.; entry PHP50/`71.)
Firefly-flecked trees along

the Abatan River.
Fireflies are an enchanting sight at any time. But when youre on

a boat cruise, under a cloudless night sky with stars stretching as
far as you can see, theyre utterly magical. We spent an evening
on the Abatan River awed by the trees lit up with colonies of
fireflies, and at the heavens speckled with thousands of stars.
The bugs were only about the size of rice grains, but together
they created a massive, glow-in-the-dark organism that took
94
Although tarsiers look

super cute, they are
fiercely territorial and can
even kill other tarsiers that
venture onto their turf.
Night With Twinkling Fireflies
SHANKAR S/FLICKR/CREATIVE COMMONS/CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY-SA/2.0/LEGALCODE (FIREFLIES),

PER-ANDRE HOFFMANN/LOOK/DINODIA (TARSIERS)
PHILIPPIN ES
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PHILIPPIN ES
over entire trees. The buzzing of the insects was the only sound
we heard besides our boats motor in the otherwise quiet night.
It left me feeling a great sense of calm. (Abatan River Life Tour,
www.riverlife.ph; daily 7.30 p.m.; PHP1,905/`2,713 per boat, which
accommodates up to five people. The ride lasts about an hour.
Visitors are provided a life vestnothing else is needed. Those
wanting to get closer to the fireflies can hire kayaks and paddle
down the river. Dont bother with a camera as its hard to
capture the fireflies unless youve got some professional
equipment. Instead, just open your eyes and take in the glittering
sights around you.)
In the dry season, the green and

undulating Chocolate Hills look like a
field of Hersheys Kisses. The bicycle
zip line (right) at the Chocolate Hills
Adventure Park provides a great
vantage point.
Before I visited the Chocolate Hills, Id seen pictures of the brown

mounds that wouldnt look out of place in a Cadburys Dairy Milk
ad. When I was there, however, they were lush and green. Clouds
sailing across the sky cast shadows, creating patches of light
and dark green as far as I could see. Roughly 1,776 limestone
hills are spread out over 50 square kilometres, and interspersed
with thick forests; they live up to their name only during the dry
summer season.
The Chocolate Hills Adventure Park has a lovely observation
deck that affords great panoramas of the landscape in any season. The bike zip gives visitors stunning 360-degree views that
are spectacular, after youve got over the initial nerves. You dont
need to know how to cycle to pedal your way along a zip line
strung 150 feet above the ground. At the outset I had more than a
few butterflies. It was a windy day and the line was swinging a bit.
I forced myself not to look down, focussing instead on the landing
bay at the other end of the line. But somewhere in the middle, I
caught sight of the spectacular rolling hills stretching around me
and stopped for a moment to take in the view. I could have kept
staring, but the safety instructor called out to me to keep pedalling. (Chocolate Hills Adventure Park; www.chocolatehillsadventurepark.com; bike zip approximately PHP450-500/`637-707.)
KamaKshi ayyar is Features Writer at National Geographic Traveller
India online. She is partial to places by the sea, and enjoys
desserts in all forms. When she isnt raving about food, she
rambles on about the latest cosmic mysteries.
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PER-ANDRE HOFFMANN/PICTURE PRESS/GETTY IMAGES (HILLS), RISHAD SAAM MEHTA (ZIP BIKE)
The Hills Are Alive With

Adventure
SOU THEAST AS I A
THE GUIDE
Orientation
Getting There
Getting Around
Seasons
Locals from nearby villages put

up a cheerful show for visitors
cruising along the Loboc River.
Bohol province is
located in the Central
Visayas region of the
Philippines, southeast
of Manila. The province
includes Bohol Island
and over 70 smaller
islands around it.
To reach Bohol Island,

travellers from India
must first fly to Manila
via a Southeast Asian
hub like Bangkok or
Kuala Lumpur. From
Manila, flights are
available to the city of
Tagbilaran, gateway to
the island cluster.
Cars and motorcycles are available on rent in Bohol and there are tricycles (local
taxi-scooters) for those who dont want to drive. Taxis can also be arranged
through your accommodation.
Temperatures in the Philippines usually hover in the range of 25-32C. June-Oct

is the rainy season with frequent, heavy showers while March-May are the hotter
and drier months. The weather is most pleasant between November and February,
though prices are higher as it is peak season.
LUXURY
Henann Resort has a prime spot on Panglao Islands pristine Alona Beach. Its
hard to choose between spending the day soaking in one of the resorts exquisite
pools or the cerulean seas by the beach (+63-380502-9141; henann.com/bohol/
henannalonabeach; doubles from PHP5,475/`7,875).
Eskaya Resort is known for its luxurious Handuraw Spa where guests can sign
up for traditional Asian treatments while enjoying views of the Bohol Sea (+6325763051/82; www.eskayaresort.com; doubles from PHP16,384/`23,306).
Stay
COMFORT
Harmony Hotel, a short walk from Alona Beach, has family rooms and apartments
that are great for larger groups (+63 38 502 82 89; www.harmonyhotelsite.com;
doubles from PHP2,637/`3,751).
Alona Kew White Beach has clean rooms and suites that are a pocket-friendly
base to enjoy Alonas white sandy beaches (+63-47-252-9978; www.alona-kew.
com; doubles from PHP4,495/`6,395).
BUDGET
Citadel Alona Inn has clean, functional rooms, some with self-catering facilities
that will appeal to those on lower budgets (+63 38 502 9424; www.citadelalona.
com; doubles from PHP798/`1,136).
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Visas
Indian passport holders
with valid American,
Japanese, Australian,
Canadian, Schengen,
Singaporean, or UK
visas can gain visafree entry to the
Philippines. Others
must apply for a visa
in person or through a
representative at the
Philippines Embassy
in New Delhi (01126110152; newdelhipe.
dfa.gov.ph) or consular
centres in Chennai,
Mumbai, or Kolkata.
Visa application forms
and a list of required
paperwork is available
on the website. A 14day tourist visa costs
`2,840 and applications
must be submitted
two weeks before the
date of travel though
it is usually issued
much sooner.
HOTOGRAPHX/EVA BENDER/IMAGEBROKER/DINODIA
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PHILIPPIN ES
JOHN W BANAGAN/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES
Tricycles are the most

common way to get around
Bohol. The redesigned
motorbikes with enhanced
sidecars seat about four.
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YOUR OWN PRIVATE
Its easy to get hooked on Thailand. After all, Southeast Asias most popular
tourist destination is chock-full of gorgeous stupas, amazing street food, and
see-it-to-believe-it islands with white sand beaches usually only found on postcards
or screensavers. Best of all, not only is Bangkok just four hours by air from major
Indian cities, it is also one of the few countries where Indian passport holders can
get a visa on arrival. Whether youre a family plotting your first visit or are
returning for the nth time, this five-point planner will help in planning the best
Thai experiences and creating an itinerary.
BY MARGOT BIGG
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THAILAND
The festival of Thai Songkran,

held in April each year,
features water fights and
parades. The celebrations
also have a more traditional
element that includes families
making time to pray together.
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TIM
GERARD BARKER/LONELY
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THAILAN D
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NORTH VS SOUTH
Visitors take in a beautiful sunrise from the Yun Lai Viewpoint (top) in northern Thailands Mae Hong Song Province; Chiang Mais Saturday Night
Market (bottom) is a colourful array of stalls selling souvenirs and local food.
Why go?
Travellers seeking a culturally immersive experience are

more likely to find what theyre looking for in the north
and northeast regions of Thailand. The north is known for
hundreds of gorgeous temples and lush forested hills with
excellent trekking trails. Motorcycling trips are popular, taking
visitors through villages of the Karen hill tribe, nature reserves
like Doi Inthanon National Park, and picturesque towns such
as Mae Hong Son. Its in the north that travellers can really
slow down and learn about life in Thailand by taking a cooking
course; learning the basics of traditional Thai massage in
tourist hot spots such as Chiang Mai and Pai; or spending time
with rescued elephants at an animal sanctuary such as the
Elephant Nature Park.
Seasons
Northern Thailand has three major seasons. The cooler,
generally dry winter starts in November and carries on
through February, with temperatures in the early or mid-20s.
Things start to heat up by the time March rolls around. The
weather then stays in the late 20s well into May, before the
monsoon rains arrive and keep the area steadily drenched
through October.
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Dont Miss
If youre headed to northern Thailand, chances are youll make
your first stop in Chiang Mai, the countrys second-largest city
and epicentre of the regions cultural and economic life. Try
to time your visit to coincide with the Saturday Night Market,
when the citys central Walking Street fills up with street
vendors hawking everything from rice paper lanterns to fried
crickets. And if you happen to be in town during April, join in
the annual Songkran festivities, in which participants ring in
the New Year by engaging in playful water fights.
TWENTY-TWO HOURS/SHUTTERSTOCK (SUNRISE), NUWATPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK (MARKET)
NORTHERN THAILAND
THAILAN D
The limestone outcrops around Railay Beach, Krabi, provide the perfect spot for rock climbing for beginners as well as seasoned climbers;
Walking on hot coals (bottom) is among the many austerities practiced at Phukets Vegetarian Festival.
SOUTHERN THAILAND
Why go?
Beach vacation seekers can head to southern Thailand,

which is all about vast expanses of white sand, excellent
water sports, and romantic sundowners. The south attracts
travellers from around the world and from all walks of life,
from hippie backpackers to families on a luxurious getaway
at one of the countrys umpteen posh resorts. Sample fresh
catch of the day in Koh Lanta, try rock climbing on Krabis
limestone cliffs, or get pampered in Phukets famous spas
while enjoying gorgeous views of the sea. And though beach
culture reigns supreme all along the southern coast, there
are plenty of opportunities to go on jungle treks, visit
temples, and immerse oneself in the laid-back southern
Thai culture.
Dont Miss
The veg set and those with a taste for the bizarre will enjoy
Phukets Vegetarian Festival, held over nine days in October.
While this annual celebration with its roots in the Thai Chinese
community is a godsend for vegetarians thanks to the numerous
stalls featuring fish-free delights, the focus is not on food. The
festival name comes from the fact that participants abstain
from eating meat during this period for spiritual reasons. The
highlights include processions and ceremonies in which believers
practice austerities ranging from fire-walking to facial piercing.
Seasons
Southern Thailand has two seasons, dry and wet, but
temperatures are consistently warm throughout the year,
usually hovering around the mid-20s. The rainy season starts
in May and continues through November. The west coast on
the Andaman Sea gets most of its rainfall during this time,
while the eastern Gulf of Thailand coast is at its rainiest from
September through December.
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BEN HORTON/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (ROCK CLIMBING), LIM YAOHUI/DEMOTIX/CORBIS NEWS/CORBIS/IMAGE LIBRARY (FIRE WALKING)
Thailand might be a small country, but the landscape and cultural diversity between the north and south
is significant. From the historical temples of Chiang Mai to the beaches along the Gulf of Thailand, there is
plenty to experience. This quick primer helps to align your interests with the countrys geography.
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SOU THEAST AS I A
THE BANGKOK
NOODLE STORY
Visitors to Thailand, whether novices or die-hard foodies, cannot miss one of the countrys most ubiquitous
dishes as they negotiate the countrys varied foodscape. Pad thai, that beloved local fry-up of flat noodles,
veggies, tofu, and/or meat, can be found on most menus in restaurants as well as at street food carts
throughout Bangkok. However, dont think of this as the definitive Thai noodle experience for there are plenty
of wonderful dishes that merit more than a taste. Here are a few noodle favourites and where to find them.
KHAO SOI
Among the most popular Northern Thai dishes, the Burmeseinfluenced khao soi (from the coconut based ohn no khao sw)
is a delicious departure from the fried, seafood-heavy noodle
dishes popular in central and southern Thailand. This rich dish
is made of fried, crisp egg noodles, mustard greens, shallots,
Khao soi and
condiments.
and meat, all drenched in a thin coconut-based curry. While its

easy to find khao soi in restaurants and at street food vendors
in northern cities such as Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, its more
challenging to track down this northern classic in the capital.
Still, the few places that do offer it tend to do it well; the
Bangkok branch of Chiang Mai restaurant Lam Duan Fah Ham
is among the best (Soi 58, Vibhavadi Rangsit; +66-2-5796403;
THB35-45/`66-85).
PAD SEE EW
Second only to pad thai in popularity, pad see ew is a mix of

wide, flat rice noodles, veggies, meat or tofu, shrimp, and eggs
cooked in a mixture of dark and light soy sauce. While this
beloved street food is easy to find throughout Bangkok, the
meat-free pad see ew at May Kaidee Vegetarian Restaurant
near the backpacker haven of Kao San Road is particularly
tasty. The restaurant also offers cooking lessons for those who
want to impress friends and family with their mastery over Thai
vegetarian cooking (Tanao Road, behind Burger King; +66-26294413; www.maykaidee.com; open 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; dishes
from THB80/`152; cooking class from THB1,000/`1,920).
A lesser-known Thai noodle dish, suki haeng is a fried noodle
dish consisting of glass noodles (ultra-thin vermicelli-style
noodles), wok-fried with cabbage, carrots, bean sprouts, water
spinach, eggs, and tofu and/or meat and served with a spicy,
garlicky dip. Its similar to its soupier cousin, sukiya (a popular
Japanese DIY hotpot dish reinterpreted for the Thai palette).
Locals recommend the suki haeng at Elvis Suki, a street vendor
meets cafeteria-style restaurant thats been serving up tasty and
inexpensive renditions of the dish for decades (No. 200/37 Soi
Yotse, Plubplachai Road; +66 (0)2 223 4979; www.elvis-suki.
com, THB40-50/`76-95).
A vegetarians guide to Bangkok

Although vegetarianism is not unheard of in Thailand, many local dishes incorporate fish sauce or shrimp paste, so
vegetarian diners should specify if they dont want either. Also, note that vegetarian or jay dishes as they are called
in Thai, often include eggs. If you dont eat eggs remember to separately request a version of the dish without them.
And while vegetarians are usually better off eating at all-vegetarian restaurants or spots popular with tourists, there
are some excellent veg street food options, particularly near the temples. Vegetarian food is usually indicated with a
red jay inside a yellow circle or flag (in picture).
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SHARKPAECNX/SHUTTER (FOOD), OH STUDIO IMAGE GALLERY (SIGN)
SUKI HAENG
Pad thai, Thailands ubiquitous

noodle, veggie, meat, and sauce fryup, is available at nearly every street
corner. Vendors at Khao San Road,
popular among backpackers, sell
numerous variations of the dish.
STEVE VIDLER/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
THAILAN D
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SOU THEAST AS I A
IF LIFE WERE A BEACH

Thailand has it all covered as far as beach pursuits go from wild party weekends to a quiet
place to read, tan, and indulge in massages and cocktails. Use this island decoder to determine
which tropical paradise suits you best.
Koh Chang
Koh Chang is popular in part due to its proximity to Bangkok

but there are plenty of reasons beyond just convenience to
visit this large island. Along with white sand beaches and a
vibrant backpacker and party scene, this large marine national
park is full of gorgeous waterfalls, some of which spill into
crystal-clear swimming holes.
Koh Pha Ngan

Party lovers should try and coordinate a visit to coincide with
a full moon and head to the island of Koh Pha Ngan. Its
known and loved for its monthly Full Moon Party held in the
busy backpacker enclave of Hat Rin. Electronic music lovers
Koh Chang or Elephant

Island is a popular spot
for boat trips. Guests
enjoy snorkelling and
fishing in the waters off
the island, and visiting its
verdant jungle and white
sand beaches.
and anyone with a beach party bucket list wont want to miss
this. Even travellers whod rather sleep than dance at night are
likely to find plenty of opportunities for quiet navel-gazing.
Koh Samui
One of the largest islands in Thailand, Koh Samui has been
a tourism hotspot for decades. What started out as a haven
for hippie backpackers, is now filled with lots of large hotels
and glamorous resorts. In fact, it can get quite crowded in
peak season, particularly in Chaweng. It is the islands most
popular beach, lined with posh restaurants as well as casual
seafood barbecues. However, once you get away from the main
commercial areas, you can easily find gorgeous beaches, quiet
rental bungalows, and low-key eateries.
ONNE VAN DER WAL/TERRA/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
GULF OF THAILAND
THAILAN D
ANDAMAN COAST
Popular with families and older couples, Koh Lanta attracts
travellers who prefer rest and relaxation over all-night parties.
Although its got all the requisite white sand beaches and
snorkelling opportunities that tourists love, the atmosphere
is low-key and less commercial than some of Thailands
more popular holiday spots. It is a good place to while away
the days swimming, getting massages, and sampling freshly
caught seafood. Getting to the island requires some dedication
howevertravellers must first fly to Krabi and then take a ferry
to the island.
Koh Lipe
With no cars and only a few motorcycle taxis, romantic Koh
Lipe is ideal for a quiet and intimate holiday. The waters off
this little island are shallow and crystalline, making it ideal
for parents with young children or non-swimmers who want
to take a dip safely. For the same reasons, its popular with
divers and snorkellers, and its nearby reefs are known for their
abundance of aquatic life.
Phuket
Connected by a bridge to mainland peninsular Thailand,
PhuketThailands largest islandis suitable for travellers
who value luxury; some of the countrys most opulent resorts
are situated here. Phuket is popular with package tourists and
has plenty to offer families, but certain areas can get loud and
crowded during peak tourist season (November-March).
Phuket is well known for its vibrant nightlife (top) that includes
everything from cabaret shows to live bands and performances by
international DJs; Swimming in Koh Lipes shallow, crystal-clear
waters (bottom) is pure joy.
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STEPHEN J. BOITANO/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (NIGHTLIFE), YVAN COHEN/GETTY IMAGES (SWIMMERS)
Koh Lanta
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SOU THEAST AS I A
AN OUTDOOR
ADVENTURELAND
Kayaking tours are a
popular way to explore
the mangrove forests and
limestone caves in the
northern part of Krabi.
One of the most iconic images of Thailand that pops up the

moment anyone googles the country is James Bond Island, a
large chunk of rock immortalised in the 007 caper, The Man
with the Golden Gun (1974). While this iconic island is among
Phang Nga Bays best-known attractions, the area is equally
known for its exceptional sea kayaking. Day-long trips for
beginners and experienced kayakers are available and usually
include meals, hotel transfers, and gear. Longer expeditions
some of which last up to a week and include camping gear
are also an option.
While learning to paddle across the open sea and getting
a good workout is a highlight for many travellers, some also
use these kayaking trips to hone their photography skills. The
unique vantage points offered on the kayaking routes allow for
capturing unusual images of the water and the surrounding
natural landscape. There are also plenty of opportunities
to paddle into the mangroves for up-close views of birds,
monkeys, snakes, and other jungle dwellers. Expect to get wet
and be sure to bring waterproof bags to store electronics. John
Grays Sea Canoe is by far the most popular operator who has
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been providing kayak ecotours in the area since 1983 (www.

johngray-seacanoe.com).
TREKKING AND MOTOR BIKING AROUND

CHIANG MAI
Most of Thailands popular treks start out in Chiang Mai

and tend to average 2-4 nights. Trekking outfitters generally
provide a guide or two who double-up as cooks and translators,
and porters can often be arranged. Travellers must be relatively
fit to undertake some of the longer and more strenuous treks,
but plenty of the shorter circuits only involve a few hours of
walking a day. Bring a raincoat even when visiting outside of
the rainy season, as unseasonal showers are common.
Treks generally stop in villages of the Karen hill tribe, where
visitors can learn more about the rural way of life and maybe
even share a meal with a local family. Many packages also
involve visits to the Maetaeng Elephant Park and include
a break at a waterfall for a quick dip. Travellers who want
to spend time in the midst of nature can look into trekking
options in the abundantly forested Doi Inthanon National
Park. Turtles, lizards, gibbons, civets, and hundreds of species
SERGI REBORWDO/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA
SEA KAYAKING IN PHANG NGA BAY
THAILAN D
From climbing limestone cliffs along the Andaman
coast to trekking in the hill villages in northernmost
Thailand, there is plenty on offer for outdoor
enthusiasts and those who thrive on adventure. Here
are a few of Thailands top outdoor activities and
the best places to experience them.
of birds are found there as is Thailands highest peak, the

8,415-foot-high Doi Inthanon.
Another way to explore Northern Thailand without hiking
or taking guided tours is by renting a motorcycle. Head out on
the Mae Hong Son Loop, a 600-kilometre ring of road that
traverses valleys peppered with gorgeous temples, caves, hot
springs, and viewpoints. The loop passes through the quiet town
of Mae Sariang and the picturesque lakeside city of Mae Hong
Son before leading up to the little backpacker village of Pai. The
route takes around four days.
DIVING IN KOH TAO
Clear waters and spectacular marine life on the Gulf of

Thailand and Andaman Sea make for excellent diving. The
sites range from crystal-clear waters off the Similan Islands to
the famous Richelieu Rock off Surin Islands in the Andaman
Sea, best known for its violet-hued coral and regular manta
ray and whale shark encounters. Those new to the world of
diving can best get their feet wet in Koh Tao (Turtle Island)
which sits just north of Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan. The
21-square-kilometre island has dozens of dive shops, and is
easily the most popular beginner dive spot in Thailand, thanks
to its abundance of easily accessible dive sites and affordable
certification programmes. Popular operators include Asia
Divers (www.asia-divers.com) and Ocean Sound Dive & Yoga
(www.oceansoundkohtao.com).
Many dive schools offer scuba diving programmes for people
who want to learn the basics in a day or two. However, if you
have a few extra days to spare youre better off enrolling in
a proper diving certification course. Once certified, you can
dive without an instructor at dive spots around the world.

Certifications are generally issued under the auspices of
PADI (the Professional Association of Diving Instructors) or
the SSI (Scuba Schools International) and beginner courses
last three to four days. Most diving courses take aspiring divers
to the areas best-known dive sites, including the anemonecovered Chumphon Pinnacle, a popular habitat for sailfish,
eels, and colourful angelfish. Another not-to-be-missed site is
the HTMS Sattakut, a WWII ship that was intentionally sunk
in 2011 to create a dive site. It has since become a habitat for a
host of aquatic species, including snappers and barracudas.
ROCK CLIMBING AT RAILAY BEACH
One of the best-known areas for rock climbing in Thailand,

if not Southeast Asia, is Krabi Provinces Railay Beach. The
surrounding area is covered with hundreds of routes along
limestone rocks suitable for everyone from beginners to
experienced climbers.
Though there are plenty of climbing centres and most offer
similar packages. These range from short beginner courses
that cover basics such as knot-tying and belaying (controlling
safety ropes) to more comprehensive programmes in sport
climbing (in which climbers attach themselves to bolts fixed
into the wall). Equipmentincluding shoes, harnesses, and
helmetsis included in most packages, and childrens courses
and kids-size equipment is available.
Railay also caters to the extreme sport of deep-water soloing.
This activity involves climbing up sea cliffswithout the use of
ropes or other protective gearand relying on the depth of the
sea waters to break your eventual (or planned) fall.
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JOHN ELK/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (BRIDGE), SHUTTERSTOCK/INDIAPICTURE (DIVING)
Travellers who want to experience Thailand beyond its beaches, often

hike through Doi Inthanon National Park (left); Koh Tao (right) is a
hotspot for scuba diving.
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SOU THEAST AS I A
TEMPLE RUN
Pattayas spectacular Sanctuary of Truth is carved in wood (left); Chiang Mais Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (right) was founded in the 14th century.
WAT RONG KHUN, CHIANG RAI
Popularly referred to as the White Temple, this iconic structure

is the youngest of Thailands landmarks, and a major reason
why many visit Chiang Rai. The creation of Chiang Rai artist,
Chalermchai Kositpipat, the temple itself is covered with
intricate curlicue patterns, many highlighted in silver mirror
work. Visitors approach the shrine via a narrow passageway
flanked by faux fountains filled with hundreds of hellish arms
reaching up; some carry bowls and others hold human skulls.
WAT PHRA THAT DOI SUTHEP, CHIANG MAI
Located just outside Chiang Mai on a hilltop overlooking the

city, this temple dates back to 1383 when it was first established
as a Buddhist monastery. Its main attraction is an enormous
golden stupa, although the entire complex is a gorgeous
amalgamation of intricately detailed structures topped with
multi-tiered gables. Note that accessing the temple requires
a steep climb up about 300 steps; those unable to make the
trudge can take a lift to the top for THB30/`57.
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WAT ARUN, BANGKOK
Rising up from the west banks of the Chao Phraya River, Wat
Arun is also known as the Temple of Dawn. It is celebrated for
its gorgeous architecture, particularly the central prang (tower),
which is decorated with intricate porcelain, glass patterns, and
statuary. It is most beautiful at dusk, when the sun sets behind
the structure, and at night when it is lit upbest viewed at that
hour from the opposite side of the river.
THE SANCTUARY OF TRUTH, PATTAYA
Right on the beach overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, Pattayas

Sanctuary of Truth complex is an ornate 344-foot-high structure
made of teak wood. Though not a temple in the traditional
sense, its interiors feature panel upon panel of intricately carved
artistic interpretations of dharmic philosophiesnotably
Mahayana Buddhism and Vedic traditionswith a strong
Khmer influence reminiscent of Cambodias Angkor Wat. The
four halls are full of beautifully carved reliefs depicting Hindu
deities, bodhisattvas, and cosmological symbols.
PAUL BIRIS/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY IMAGES (TOWER), TAKE PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK (STATUE)
Thousands of Buddhist temples or wats can be found throughout Thailand, as nearly 95 per cent of the
population is Buddhist. From simple shrines to elaborate edifices with gilded towers and giant Buddha
statues, these temples are repositories of history, learning, and faith. Discover some of the most beautiful
structures in the country through this guide.
THAILAN D
MICAH WRIGHT/DESIGN PICS/CANOPY/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
Although Chiang Rais Wat

Rong Khun has been for open
less than two decades, this
stunning masterpiece has
already established itself as
one of Northern Thailands
most iconic structures.
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Creatures
Great and Small
By Rumela Basu
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KOHIS/IMAGEBROKER/DINODIA (ORANGUTANS), PHOTO COURTESY: WILDLIFE RESERVES SINGAPORE (BIRD)
From meeting Kai Kai the panda to Amigo the Amazon parrot
and Woody the orangutan, a visit to Singapore Zoo alters
perceptions and triggers joy
PHOTO COURTESY: WILDLIFE RESERVES SINGAPORE
S IN GAPO RE
The Squirrel Monkey Forest in the River Safari

replicates an Amazonian forest where frisky
squirrel monkeys hunt for fruit and flower nectar
in their free-ranging habitats.
Facing page: The Wildlife Reserves Singapores
conservation efforts have seen major success with
rehabilitating hornbills (top), as well as breeding
orangutans (bottom). The primates have the
largest open exhibit in the park without any walls,
and with multi-tiered platforms.
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Her skin is covered in smooth

scales that gleam in the sun. Shes cool and silken to the touch, but I can
feel strong muscles under her skin. Two years old and almost two feet
long, Nala is a ball python currently coiled in the palms of my hands. Im
enthralledI never imagined holding a snake would feel like this.
At zoos Ive visited in the past, the animals have languished

in small cages with almost no greenery. Here, watching the
orangutans lounging in tree-top hammocks and a red-ruffed
lemur scurrying down the length of his log-shaped platform,
I feel my reservations recede.
Nalas keeper, whos been keeping a close watch on how I
handle the snake, slips in a hand to gather her up. Reluctantly
letting go, I follow Natt Haniff, our vivacious guide, into the
zoos Rainforest Zone. Looking down from an elevated walkway
under a canopy of tropical trees, I spot a nimble, brown mouse
deer. A little distance away, on the other side, is an enormous
gharial. I didnt know they could grow this large.
In the Wild Africa Zone, two giraffes named Growie and Roni
amble along gracefully. Behind them, three zebras munch on
grass. None of them are in cages. Singapore Zoo is designed with
Kai Kai and Jia Jia, the giant panda pair, came to Singapore as a gift from China in 2010 and now live in the 1500-sq-metre temperature-controlled
biodome in the River Safari. They have distinct personalitieswhile Kai Kai is mostly out and about, Jia Jia is shy and prefers the coziness of her den.
114
My previous encounters with snakes, at zoos, featured a glass

partition between us. Im in a zoo now as well, but this one is unlike others Ive visited. At the Singapore Zoo, which is skirted by
a large lake in the city-states Mandai region, I spent the morning
having breakfast in the company of a family of orangutans. They
ate on a wooden platform a few feet from our table. Two-yearold Joko, the youngest of the group, reminded me of the antics
of my pre-teen cousin when he was that age. Orangutans are this
zoos flagship species, and they roam freely in their habitat here.
Walking around, I spot some in the trees. Some are descendants
of Ah Meng, the parks most famous orangutan, rescued from a
private home where she was being kept illegally. She eventually
became a tourism icon for Singapore until she died in 2008.
Ive come to the Singapore Zoo with apprehensionsseeing
animals in captivity is not a concept Im comfortable with.
S IN GAPO RE
The resident giraffe couple Roni and

Growies baby Jubilee, named so because
he was born in the countrys jubilee year
2015, is the first giraffe to be born in
Singapore Zoo in almost three decades.
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an open enclosure concept. This means animals are separated

from visitors and other animals by natural or naturally designed
boundaries like moats and hedges. Painful memories of agitated
lions pacing in tiny cages fade away when I watch a lioness
nuzzling her mate as they rest on a grassy hillock.
The 64-acre park has an impressive green cover. With most of
Singapores natural forests lost to urban development, the zoo
and the surrounding nature reserve are among the few green
spots left in city state. While many of the trees are native, others
have been introduced to create familiar habitats for the animals.
Soon its feeding time, and the giraffes saunter closer to the
viewing station. I step out on a platform, almost at eye level with
them, and hold out a sweet potato from a bucket provided for
visitors. Growie winds his long purple-black tongue around it
and pulls it from my hand. His head alone is as big as half of me.
I enjoy getting close to the giraffes, but I also wonder whether
this proximity disturbs the animals. Im told that theyre not
tame, and can get agitated or attack if a stranger ventures too
close to them. But they seem to be used to human presence,
especially their keepers, and are not distressed by it.
This familiarity with humans is most apparent in the Fragile
Forest exhibita high-roofed enclosed area with tropical trees
and plants, and comfortable balmy air. A walkway runs through
the middle. Natt warns us not to look up with our mouths open
in case one of the bats decides to relieve itself. As if to prove
her point, a bat instantly finds a spot on a guests nose. Much
laughter and a swipe of tissue later, we continue on. Crowned
pigeons cross the walkway and a sloth makes its leisurely way up
116
a branch. But its the ring-tailed lemurs that are most intriguing,
even snobbish and indifferent. One grooms itself beside the
walkway, tail splayed, another stares at us with wide beady eyes
from its perch.
Over lunch, I get an opportunity to voice some of my concerns
about zoos to Roopali Raghavan, whos part of the parks Conservation & Research department and looks after animal welfare.
She assures me great care is taken to reduce the stress on the resident animals, and small changes are regularly introduced into
their enclosures to keep them engaged. Why have zoos at all, I
want to know. She explains that they serve an important purpose, enabling conservationists to study the animals closely so
they can better protect populations in the wild. Zoos often house
assurance colonies: modern-day Noahs arks that ensure there
is a healthy population of endangered animals that can be reintroduced to the wild in case the original population dwindles.
The conversation reveals another important fact: The wild
is not always the best place for animals, especially in Southeast
Asia where trade in exotic animals is rampant. Green spots in
the world are also reducing steadily, increasing animal-human
conflict. As I crane my neck out of the boat during the River
Safari cruise sometime later, I see a tapir snooze under a tree. I
realise that this magnificent animalone that Ive gazed at on
television time and againis safe here. It is tangible evidence of
the richness of life that needs protection.
The next evening Im back to experience the Night Safari, adjacent to the zoo. Our buggy winds through open enclosures that
house striped hyena, oryx, and red river hogs. Bathed in a dull
THOMOS MARENT/MINDEN PICTURES/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY (MONKEYS), DESIGN PICS/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY (BABOONS)
While some of the zoos 39 primate species, like the black and white colobus monkey (left), have islands separated by moats in a zone, others, like
the territorial baboons (right) have their own separate enclosure. Wild grasses, palms, and rocky structures help recreate their native habitat.
S IN GAPO RE
Malayan tapirs, the largest of the species, are lesser-known nocturnal animals whose native homes in the Southeast Asian jungles are under
threat. During the Night Safaris tram tours, visitors can see these monochrome herbivores at close range from within the confines of the buggy.
Rumela Basu is Features Writer at National Geographic

Traveller India. She loves poetry and food, and travels to discover
new destinationsand aspects of herself.
THE VITALS
SINGAPORE ZOO provides a bus service from select
locations in Singapore (round trip adults SGD10/`488,
children SGD5/`244). The zoos website (www.zoo.com.
sg) has detailed instructions on how to reach it using
other public transport. Hours 8.30 a.m.-6 p.m. daily (last
entry 5.30 p.m.). Entry fee Adults SGD32/`1,560, children
3-12 years SGD21/`1,024. Discounts of up to 30 per cent
possible on advance online purchases. Those with young
children may like to purchase tickets for the hop-on
hop-off guided tram tour (adults SGD5/`244; children
SGD3/`146). Need to Know The zoo website also has
discounted Park Hopper tickets offering combinations
depending on the other Wildlife Reserves Singapore parks
you want to visit. They are valid for seven days. Bring The
weather is unpredictable; carry an umbrella or raincoat.
Eat There are food outlets located throughout the zoo.
NIGHT SAFARI is adjacent to the zoo. Hours 7.15 p.m.midnight (last entry 11.15 p.m.). Entry fee Adults
SGD42/`2,048, children SGD28/`1,365. Discounts on
advance online purchases (www.nightsafari.com.sg).
RIVER SAFARI is in the same area as the Zoo and Night
Safari. It has a biodome with pandas, and boat safaris
(adults SGD5/`244, children SGD3/`146). Hours 10 a.m.7 p.m. (last entry 6.30 p.m.). Entry fee Adults SGD28/
`1,367, children SGD18/`880. (www.riversafari.com.sg).
glow that mimics moonlight, I watch a sloth bear get up on its

hind legs inside its enclosure to inspect us. We hop off to explore
the walking trails, spotting slow loris, elusive golden cats, hog
badgers, and porcupines in glass-panelled and open enclosures.
I feel engulfed by a sense of wonder, at having encountered
animals I didnt even know existed on our planet. At Jurong Bird
Park, colourful and noisy lories perched on my arms tickled my
ears and made me laugh. Ive discovered the animals as personalities: Kai Kai the panda who suddenly falls asleep and the loud
slurping noises the rhinos Shova and Bora make when eating
muskmelon are all very endearing. I know that Eva the manatee
has seven children and two grandchildren, Amigo the yellownaped Amazon parrot can hold a (very shrill) tune, and Woody
the orangutan does not like to share food.
Not all my apprehensions about zoos are completely gone, but
my dream of seeing an alternative, happier version of them has
been fulfilled. Having experienced so much joy at meeting these
creatures, I can only imagine the interest that would be sparked
in a child upon seeing these animals in close proximity, in settings similar to their natural habitats. Maybe thats why we need
zoosas a first step in fostering amazement and curiosity about
the natural world. So long as zoos can take care of animals and
birds, keep them safe, and engage the minds of the next generation to think actively about conserving Earths diversity.
117
Summer Special | SOU THE AST AS I A
In a Monk's Shoes
A temple stay in Korea dips into the countrys Buddhist
heritage and questions the desires of normal life
BY ANJANA
118
KO RE A
Meditation sessions are an important part

of South Koreas temple stay programmes.
Participants also get a Q&A session with the
head monk, in which questions about spirituality
and the benefits of meditation can be discussed.
Facing page: A statue of Buddha holding a lotus.
119
PHOTO COURTESY: JIKJISA TEMPLE (STATUE),

FACING PAGE: PHOTONONSOTOP RM/INDIAPICTURE (MEDITATION)
SOUTH
On the road toward

Mount Hwangak,
Hally the temple employee who
has come to pick me up, slows the
car beside a gushing river that
swerves around large boulders. She
pulls up outside the elaborately
carved gate of the Jikji temple, a
monastery in Gimcheon, South
Korea, where I am going to spend
the next two days. Jikji or Jikjisa
is a temple of the Jogye Order, one
of the traditional orders of Korean
Buddhism, and the home of over a
dozen treasured artefacts, including
three spectacular pieces that are
considered national treasures.
120
A standard feature of Korean temples is the iljumun before

mea one-pillar gate that consists of a pagoda with a gently
curved base, resting atop twin pillars. When viewed from the
side, the two red pillars appear to be one. This illusion symbolises
the singular path of enlightenment of Buddhist philosophy, the
idea with which one must enter the temple. Im here for a twoday temple-stay programme that was recommended by a friends
Korean business associate. Korean temples opened up to visitors
upon the request of delegates of the 2002 FIFA World Cup who
felt that tourists would enjoy a taste of the life of a Korean monk.
I believe it is a unique cultural experience programme that will
allow me to sample the countrys Buddhist cultural heritage.
The road ahead of us is carpeted with amber maple leaves, and
the grounds of the temple complex are painted in shades of hot
orange that contrast with the winter chill of the mountain air.
The four peaks of Mount Hwangak provide the backdrop to the
ornate 300- and 400-year-old buildings of the temple. Twenty
of the 40 original structures, dating back to A.D. 418, were rebuilt after the Japanese invasion of 1592 left Jikjisa in flames.
The invaders were searching for Samyeong, a militant-turnedmonk who had sought sanctuary and was ordained here.
As we walk towards the office, I gawk at the fine detailing of
the carvings and the Buddhist paintings that adorn walls. Some
of the relics and artefacts have always been here, but many were
brought here from other temples, Hally tells me. Jikjisa is like
the father temple with a hundred sons.
Hally had lived in London for a few years, and her close-tofluent English makes her an asset to this organisation. Of over a
hundred Korean temples that have opened their doors to visitors
since 2002, only 20 extend their programmes to foreigners,
mainly because of the language barrier.
Communication is imperative, because there are clear rules to
be followed while I am inside a working monastery. Hally shows
PHOTO COURTESY: JIKJISA TEMPLE
At the morning doryangseok ceremony,

monks walk around the temple and
chant, accompanied by the sound of a
wooden gong called the moktak.
KO RE A
Pagodas are a typical feature of Korean

temples and are used to enshrine
Buddhas relics. Monks chant as they walk
around these structures in a clockwise
direction to reaffirm their faith.
121
PHOTO COURTESY: KOREA TOURISM
SOUTH
me how to greet a monk with a half-bow, or banbae, and how

to keep my hands crossed in the chasu (pronounced ghassu)
position while within the complex. Meals must be eaten in
silence, and a gong that sounds at 4.30 a.m. serves as a wake-up
call. We run through the schedule of services, I receive a seung
bok (chung-pok), the saffron uniform that I must wear: a pair of
baggy pants called paji, and a short, wide-sleeved working jacket
called choksam, both stitched out of a coarse heavy fabric, thats
not warm enough for this weather. Earlier that morning before
Id boarded a comfortable train in Seoul, Id picked up some heatradiating patches. They will come in handy, Im certain.
By late afternoon all the visitors to the temple have settled in,
and get a quick tour of the halls before the evening rituals. At the
entrance to the daeungjong, or main hall, we take our slippers off
before stepping in. We join hands and bow at the waist, eyes on
the golden triad on the altar, just as weve been taught. The statue
of Shakyamuni, the historical Buddha, is at the centre of the
altar, flanked by the Medicine Buddha and the Infinite Buddha.
Hally lifts a pillow off a stack, sets it down before her feet. She
kneels, then bends forward with her arms stretched out before
her until her forehead touches the floor. Her hips rest
comfortably on her heels and she retracts her arms so her palms
are besides her ears, and turns them up to the ceiling. As she
122
sits up, she brings her hands together at her chest in a Korean
namaste (hapjang), which symbolises the unification of the
Buddhas mind (right hand) with hers (left hand). Then shes on
her feet again, and presses the hapjang to her forehead and to her
chest to complete one prostration. Hally performs this thrice, in
reverence to the Buddha, the dharma, and the sangha (order of
monks). Then, she pulls three large pillows off a stack and hands
them to us, one by one, so she can take us through the steps. We
practice our bows on the left side of the hall, leaving the rest of
the space for the monks. Monks may meditate any time of day
and some choose to do so in this hall. They kneel before the tiered
altar, the upper three levels of which form the sumidan. The
word is derived from Mt. Sumeru, the central mountain of the
world according to Buddhist scriptures. The tiers that represent
it are adorned with elaborately carved figures of creatures like
tigers, turtles, or fish, that would reside on the mountain.
The next morning, during the 5 a.m. yebul ceremony, we start
our day with 108 prostrations. We then walk through the temple
museum, full of amazing Buddhist art and antiques too delicate
to be photographed. There are engravings on traditional hanji
paper, an intricately carved stone bell with a dragon-shaped
clasp, and stunning paintings of guardian spirits whose forms
combine human and animal features.
SOUTH
KO RE A
Mealtime in the monastery is called baru-gongyang, because

monks traditionally eat their meals out of a baru, or bowl.
In keeping with the Buddhist principle of harmony with nature,
the menu includes two kinds of kimchi, a vegetable broth,
rice, seaweed, radish, and tofu seasoned with a mildly spicy
sauce. Minimally seasoned, the vegetables are as close to raw as
possible. The preparations contain neither onion nor garlic. The
principle is not to relish food, but simply to satiate the hunger
that might otherwise distract a person from meditation. This
point is driven home by the prayer were asked to recite at the
start of each meal: An apology to the powers that be for
succumbing to the human need for nourishment.
Once we wash our dishes we head for the nightly music ritual.
Only priests are allowed inside the fenced hall where it takes
place, so we line up outside and listen. Hally explains that, The
sound of the drum, made of hide, is a prayer for all animals. The
bell, which represents the Vedic creator of the universe, Brahma,
is a prayer for humans. The sound of the moktak, a wooden fishshaped instrument is a prayer for marine life, and the closing
gongs are for all other creatures.
Its time to retire for the night and I find my room behind a
shoji screen door, a neat 8x7-foot space fitted with floor heating,
and a wardrobe that holds a blanket, a quilted mat, and two slim,
hard beanbags, which I assume are meant to function as pillows.

Its luxurious in comparison to most temple-stay schemes, where
visitors share rooms with at least three other participants, and
use communal showers and bathrooms. Jikjisa is one of the few
temples with en suite facilities. With only two other people currently on the programme, I get a room all to myself and all the
peace and quiet I could possibly want.
Despite the restful night, I struggle to keep from nodding off
during the 6.30 a.m. chamseon, or Zen meditation, the next
morning. I snap back to attention at the sound of three claps
from the wooden clapper that announces the end of the service.
After breakfast, Hee Pong, the head monk escorts us to a comparatively new shrine at the peak of the mountain. Along the
way, we learn about cause and effect, and about hatu, the ability
FEAST DAYS
On some days, the temple hosts special celebrations with
music, chanting, and free meals for the poor.
The Buddhas birthday: 14 May, 2016 (the date changes every
year according to the Chinese lunar calendar)
Day of prayer for ancestors: 15 July
New Year: 22 December
123
PHOTO COURTESY: JIKJISA TEMPLE (VISITORS), ANJANA (MEALS & BEADS)
As part of their temple stay regime,

visitors walk along paths that wind
through beautiful, forested mountains,
pausing to catch their breath or for
nuggets on Buddhist cosmology (left);
Temple meals are a part of monastic
practice and are meant to have harmony
with nature. The fare is simple and no
wastage is permitted (top right); The
108 yeomju (prayer beads) threading
ritual is an essential part of the
programme (bottom right).
Nestled amid pine forests, ancient hardwoods, and a pristine river, Jikjisa is one of the most picturesque of South Koreas temples and its
position affords visitors excellent trekking opportunities.
AnjAnA is a freelance journalist and author of childrens books.

Passionate about world cultures and cuisines, she also enjoys
hiking and diving with her daughters.
124
THE VITALS
Getting There There are direct flights from New Delhi/Mumbai
to Seoul on most days of the week. From Seoul, there are several
daily trains to Gimcheon (adults from KRW16,400/`915, children
from KRW8,200/`450; duration 3 hr). Frequent buses connect
the two cities (adults from KRW14,100/`785, children from
KRW7,050/`390; duration 4-4.5 hr).
Visa The application form for tourist visas is available online
(www.vfsglobal.com/korea/india). The completed form and
supporting documents have to be submitted at the consulates
in Mumbai or Chennai, or at VFS offices in New Delhi and Kolkata
(`2,400 for a single entry tourist visa, plus `860 VFS charges.)
More about Temple Stays Temple stay programmes are
offered across South Korea, but each location has a different
programme. Some include classes such as traditional envelope
making or cloth dyeing. Programmes at different temples may
run through the week, only on weekends, or on select weekends
only. The 2-day/1-night stay at Jikjisa costs KRW50,000/`2,860
per person. To sign up, fill the selected temples form on the
temple stay website, but do make sure you have a confirmation
email before you pack your bags. You may have to call the listed
number to follow up. Heavy make-up and outlandish clothes are
not allowed at temples, and theres a complete ban on cigarettes
and alcohol (www.jikjisa.or.kr).
PHOTO COURTESY: JIKJISA TEMPLE
to control the mind. He tells us that later in the day we will be

stringing 108 beads, which signify the 108 delusions that lead
to human suffering; some of these are desire, wrath, contempt,
and pride.
Though he is older than all of us, neither his tone nor his pace
waver during the rigorous half-hour trek up some sharp inclines.
The icy November rain beats down on us, making the descent
quite treacherous. But I feel invigorated both by the trek and the
dado tea ceremony that follows.
Later, we sit down to string beads. Some temples require
one prostration for each bead strung, but Jikjisa takes a more
casual approach. Hally directs us to focus on the things we wish
for, each time we pull a bead through the string. Im deeply
conscious of the fact that I find myself with nothing to wish
for, nothing that I feel is lacking in my life. Whether thats a
result of the hours of meditation, or just being surrounded by
this serenity, I cannot say, but it is an incredible feeling.
After two days of eating a Buddhist monks diet, sleeping on
hard floors, meditating, hiking and prostrating, I am entirely
refreshed and lighter. Id love to stay longer, but I have a train
to catch, to get back to my 108 delusions.
MINT IMAGES-FRANS LANTING/GETTY IMAGES
JOURNEYS
126
Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana
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BOTSWANA
THE LAST SANCTUARY
Celebrating its
50th anniversary,
this nation models
how to save Africas
wildlife
126
Elephants big and small refuel

at a watering hole in Botswanas
eastern Tuli Block area.
127
BOTSWAN A
Journeys |
I N TO THE WI L D
by COSTAS CHRIST photographs by AARON HUEY
The tawny sands of the Kalahari Desert envelop

our 4x4 in a dusty cloud as we race along a
rutted track to the Tsodilo Hills, in northern
Botswana. Three rocky monoliths emerge into
with more than 4,500 paintings discovered to date. The three
main hills are known as Male, Female, and Child, and are
revered as the spot where creation begana San Garden of Eden.
Indeed, geological evidence indicates that water covered much
of the area thousands of years ago, and fish were abundant.
Xuntae Xhao leads me along one of more than a dozen trails
that traverse Tsodilo to the precise place where his San ancestors
A guide poles a mokoro, or traditional canoe,

through wetlands of the Okavango Delta, a World
Heritage Site that is home to endangered species
such as the African wild dog and black rhino.
128
view across the otherwise flat landscape that defines most of this
African nation.
This place has been occupied by humans for more than
1,00,000 years, says my guide. The indigenous San people
believe it brings positive energy to all who come here. Tsodilos
stony mounds, a World Heritage Site since 2001, also contain
one of the highest concentrations of ancient rock art on Earth,
BOTSWAN A
Ancient rock art draws visitors to Botswanas other World Heritage Site, the
Tsodilo Hills, dubbed the Louvre of the Desert.
believe their creator lowered all creatures from the sky. Indentations that resemble the cloven hooves of a kudu antelope and the
outline of a human body mark the spot in the rockscape.
People came first, followed by the animals to help them
survive. It was a time when humans and animals were all equal,
he says. Today, this venerated place is looked after by the Tsodilo
Community Trust, an innovative partnership between San
villagers and the Botswana government.
The San are Tsodilos rightful guardians and beneficiaries,
says Charles Motshubi, a community development organizer
and the Tsodilo project manager. Xhao nods. It is we who know
the ancient stories of this land.
That night the wind comes up, howling along the prehistoric
cliffs adorned with depictions painted in red, of rhinos, eland,
and elephants.
INTO THE WILD
THE OKAVANGO DELTA

Hippos and crocs patrol the deep water, so lets keep to the
shallows and give them their privacy, Goitseone Monnaphutego
says as we pole our way by mokoro, or canoe, into the Okavango
Delta. What he doesnt add is that elephants like their water
both waysshallow and deep. Now we watch two bulls emerge
from the reeds ahead of us. As the bigger one turns our way and
flaps his ears in warning, Monnaphutego brings the mokoro to a
stop and whispers, Whoever said the lion is king of the jungle is
wrong. That title has always belonged to the elephant.
This king is in grave danger. Between 2010 and 2012 alone,
more than 1,00,000 African elephants were slaughtered across
the African continent, fuelled by Asias illegal ivory syndicates.
In the mayhem, Botswana is fast becoming their last sanctuary.

This landlocked nation boasts the largest herds of free-roaming
elephants in Africa and is home to one third of the continents
threatened elephant population.
If this trend [poaching] continues unabated, it is likely that
elephants will go extinct in most of their range in our lifetimes,
Botswanas conservation-minded President Seretse Khama Ian
Khama said last July. Khamas plan: Promote community-based
ecotourism, enforce strict anti-poaching regulations, and slap a
ban on big-game hunting.
Monnaphutego exemplifies this conservation approach. My
father was a poacher; I was destined to follow his path until I
learned wildlife is something to be conserved, not feared, to improve our lives. He and veteran local guide Kgaga Kgaga run
Okavango Museum Explorations, an outfitter specializing in discovering the delta by mokoro. They represent a new generation
of Africans turned ecotourism entrepreneurs. Over several days,
we pole along remote waterways that my people have used for
centuries, encountering hippos, fish eagles, goliath herons, and
wattled cranes. One evening we see the flash of a sitatunga as
it disappears along the waters edge. The aquatic antelope is so
rare that locals refer to it as Botswanas unicorn.
I have seen a sitatunga only three times, Monnaphutego
murmurs to me. As quick as they appear, they vanish.
AFRICAS ARK
MOREMI GAME RESERVE

Wild dogs ahead! exclaims the tracker, riding in a seat welded
to the front frame of our Toyota Land Cruiser. Since dawn weve
been hot on the trail of one of the most elusive and endangered
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mammals in the worldthe African wild dog. Were following

not one but a pack of 21.
A dizzying array of tracks discloses that this pack hunted
an impala the previous evening. Bellies full, the family is now
lounging in the shade of an acaciapups frolicking and adults
slumberingbelying the fact that their entire population has
dwindled to some 5,000, which lands them on the doorstep of
extinction. The good news: The Moremi Game Reserves ecosystem of overlapping marshes, grasslands, and woodlands of
Zambe ZAMBIA
z
ANGOLA
CHOBE
N.P.
Tsodilo Hills Okavango

World Heritage site Delta
MOREMI
GAME RES.
Francistown
B O T S W A N A
CENTRAL
KALAHARI
GAME RESERVE
KHUTSE
GAME RES.
I
E
S
E
TROPIC OF CAPRICORN
Mo
lo
po
AFRICA
100 mi
NORTHERN TULI
GAME RES.
Mashatu
Game Res.
po
po
m
Li
Gaborone
D
KGALAGADI
TRANSFRONTIER
PARK
Bulawayo
Makgadikgadi
Pans
Ghanzi
K
ZIMBABWE
NXAI
PAN N.P.
Maun
MAKGADIKGADI
PANS NATIONAL PARK
NAMIBIA
Livingstone
Victoria Falls
SOUTH AFRICA
100 km
130
AREA
ENLARGED
mopane and acacia trees has become a wild dog stronghold. The
first such sanctuary created by local communities in southern
Africa, it was established in the 1960s.
Today, safari lodges such as &Beyonds Sandibe Okavango
Lodge offer a base camp for forays into Moremi.
Conservation is at the heart of all we do, &Beyonds CEO,
Joss Kent, tells me. His company, in partnership with another,
Great Plains Conservation, and the Botswana government,
has embarked on its most ambitious project, Rhinos Without
Borders, to save another iconic animal now tottering on
the edge of extinction; a rhino horn can fetch more than
$200,000 on the black market. (Its supposed medicinal
power has been debunked by science.) Other safari outfitters,
including Wilderness Safaris and Abercrombie & Kent, also
are riding to the rescue in a huge effort to relocate rhinos from
adjacent countries where poaching has skyrocketed in recent
years. Botswana has become the continents safest haven,
a modern-day ark for Africas threatened species. Sandibe
Okavango Safari Lodge even resembles an ark, albeit of an
eco-luxury kind. Elephants feed on palm trees beside guest
rooms, baboons scamper across the lodge veranda, and nearby
lions call to each other in deep throaty rumbles.
KALAHARI SALT FLATS
THE MAKGADIKGADI
Among the most dramatic sights visible on satellite images of
Africa is a cluster of huge irregular oblongs in the continents
southern reaches. Zoom in closer and the Makgadikgadi Pans,
one of the worlds largest complexes of salt flats, come into
focus. Think barren, endless, emptyyet anything but lifeless.
In this panscape of sometimes searing heat by day and cool,
breezy nights, the footprints of zebras, giraffes, ostriches, and
NG MAPS (MAP); PARKS DATA FROM THE WORLD DATABASE ON PROTECTED AREAS (WDPA )
Horseback riders pass a group of zebras in late afternoon on the Makgadikgadi salt pans, the remains of an ancient lake.
At the tented San Camp,

a staff member sets the
table for dinner.
131
BOTSWAN A
I N TO THE WI L D
Bikers in the Mashatu Game

Reserve cross paths with wildlife.
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BOTSWAN A
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An aerial view of a herd of wildebeest thundering across the stark Makgadikgadi salt pans.
134
BUSH BIKING IN MASHATU
TULI BLOCK
Tuli Block, a ribbon of land in the countrys far east, is a place
where people and wilderness intermingle to the benefit of both.
Its home to the Mashatu Game Reserve, one of the largest
private protected areas in Africas south, and is serviced by
locally owned tour operators and lodges, from rustic to luxury.
Tuli also is the sole place in Botswana where you can go on a
mountain biking safari in a designated game reserve. The
master of bush cycling is Johan Rakumako, who helped map
the Tour de Tuli, a five-day off-the-grid tour using elephant
migration routes. Who knew that pachyderms create wellgroomed mountain bike trails?
To see a wild elephant from a mountain bike is an experience,
Rakumako enthuses as we set out for a day of riding through the
remote Limpopo River Valley, where the borders of Botswana,
Zimbabwe, and South Africa intersect. This part of the country
stands in stark contrast to the rest of Botswanacraggy
escarpments and sandstone ridges replace the flat plains, while
waterfalls tumble and massive nyala berry trees create vistas of
resplendent greenery.
The euphoria of a memorable journey washes over me. I
know Rakumako, Monnaphutego, Kgaga, Xhao, and others Ive
met are creating a future for themselves and for some of the
most endangered wildlife on Earth. As we ride along elephant
highways, through dry riverbeds and across open fields, flocks
of helmeted guinea fowl squawk, and browsing eland, herds of
impala, and noble-looking giraffes watch us go by.
National Geographic Traveler (U.S.) Editor-at-Large Costas Christ
writes and speaks about sustainable tourism. aaron huey is a
Seattle-based photojournalist and documentary photographer.
DAVE HAMMAN/GALIO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (WILDEBEEST)
other desert-adapted creatures crisscross the otherworldly terrain, reminding me of astronauts footsteps left on the moon.
While the tracks appear to wander aimlessly, in fact they weave a
story: It is here that one of Africas epic migrations unfolds each
year, as huge herds of zebras search for the mineral-rich grasses
that flourish in the surrounding area. The zebras are dwarfed in
number only by the hundreds of thousands of greater and lesser flamingos that come to nest in the remote pans. Pause long
enough to look and listen, and a bounty of life materializes.
We want to bring simplicity back to going on safari, and
for us that means being in wide, open spaces on horseback,
explains David Foot, who set up Ride Botswana with his wife,
Robyn. Their mission is to offer travellers a chance to experience
an African safari from the old days, before the advent of bush
planes and 4x4s.
From San Camp, a collection of six walk-in tents adorned with
antiques and artefacts, we set out on horses, walking and then
galloping toward a faraway treeline. In the 11,910 square kilometres of the Makgadikgadi that surround us, I do not see one
building, cell tower, or paved road in any direction.
As sunset approaches, we stop for gin-and-tonic sundowners
as herds of wildebeest stare at us curiously. With no engine
running and no exhaust fumes spewing, we merge with the
animal kingdom.
Ive heard there are seven-star hotels somewhere in the
world, says Robyn. Sweeping her arm toward the vast sky above
us, she declares, This is a million-star hotel.
Later that evening, I meet Super, San Camps senior guide,
who has spent 26 years exploring the pans. We head out for a
night drive and soon spot the rarest of the four hyena species,
the brown hyena, as well as another rare night wanderer, the
reclusive aardwolf. When a huge southern African porcupine
wanders by, I know my night is complete.
BOTSWAN A
MARTIN MECNAROWSKI/SHUTTERCTOCK (WILD DOGS)
Frolicking pups bode well for the population of the highly endangered African wild dogs (bottom). Moremi Game
Reserve is one of their last homes; A cottage at Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge (top).
135
Journeys |
I N TO THE WI L D
OUR PICKS
NINE GREAT BOTSWANA EXPERIENCES

monumental tree used as a
landmark by 19th-century
travellers crossing the Kalahari
Desert. It also helped move
mail: Travellers tucked letters
into its hollows for other
explorers to find and relay to
family and friends back home.
7 PEDAL POWER
Want to do good while biking
your way into great shape?
Join the annual Tour de Tuli,
a multi-day mountain biking
adventure. The tour traverses
terrain in Botswana, Zimbabwe,
and South Africa to support
Children in the Wilderness,
an organization that works
to inspire and educate
Africas next generation of
conservation leaders.
3 GONE FISHING
When the waters of the
Okavango Delta recede in
September, fly fishermen
rejoice. Giant catfish gather in
papyrus reeds, slapping the
water with their tails to stun
baitfishan action that attracts
feisty tiger fish that in turn offer
anglers an exciting catch-andrelease experience.
2 WOVEN WARES
Traditional Botswana baskets
are renowned for their tight
weaving and patterns; a single
basket can take weeks to
complete. Some of the best,
fashioned with young fronds
of the mokolwane palm, can
be found in the craft shops of
Maun, a safari hub.
4 STARRY NIGHT
Evenings in Botswana bring
a cosmic show. Guests at
San Camp, by the salt flats of
Makgadikgadi Pans National
Park, are treated to the Milky
Way splashed across a sky free
of light pollution. Visitors to the
private Mashatu Game Reserve
can join night drives, which
search for nocturnal animals
such as caracals.
5 ART HAVEN
Youll find artwork depicting

Botswanas cultural heritage,
wildlife, and more at the
Thapong Visual Arts Centre,
in the capital city, Gaborone.
The centre hosts workshops
and provides studio space
136
for artists. Also in the capital:

the National Museum and Art
Gallery, with its own exhibits of
Botswana art.
8 NATIONAL PRIDE
On September 30, 2016,
Botswana will mark 50 years
of independence from Britain
with grand festivities, including
cultural events, processions,
and arts performances.
6 BUSH TELEGRAPH
Long before GPS there
was Chapmans Baobab, a
Pachyderm Party
One of Africas largest concentrations of elephants lives in
Chobe National Park, migrating seasonally between the parks
floodplains and salt pans. For prime elephant-viewing, visit the
Chobe River area (above) in October. Guests at the Chobe Game
Lodge gather on the lodge boardwalk for sightings of these
largest of land animals, along with zebras and other wildlife.
KARIN DUTHIE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (BASKET), ANN AND STEVE TOON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (ELEPHANTS)
1 DESERT IS LAND
Botswana is home to geological
oddities, including an outcrop
of boulders and baobabs in a
sea of sand. Known as Lekhubu,
or Kubu Island, it once sat
in a vast lake that covered
much of the Makgadikgadi
salt pans. Locals watch over
the site, where they also run a
campground for travellers.
BOTSWAN A
THE GUIDE
Getting There
Visas
Seasons
Ethiopian Airlines has connecting flights from Delhi

and Mumbai to Botswanas Gaborone Airport via
Addis Ababa three times a week. Other airlines
require two layovers, usually one at a Middle Eastern
hub and another at an African hub like Johannesburg
or Nairobi. Air Botswana has daily flights from
Gaborone to Maun that take just over an hour.
Indian travellers to Botswana require a tourist visa.
The application form is available on the website
of the Botswana High Commission and must be
submitted in person or by a representative along with
accompanying documents like flight bookings and
hotel reservations (011-46537000; visa fee `3,150;
form and complete list of required documents at
botswanahighcom.in). Visa processing time is
14 working days. Travellers will need to get a
yellow fever vaccine as they are likely to transit
through Kenya or Ethiopia. First-time visitors should
consider travelling with a safari outfitter; outfitters
organise travel arrangements and tailor itineraries
to your specifications.
The salt pans are at their most evocative, with
mirage-like conditions, in the dry season (Jun-Sep).
Rains begin mid-November and stay into March,
flooding the pans and hydrating nutritious grasses
that attract thousands of zebras from Namibia, a
480-kilometre round trip considered the longest
of zebra migrations. Between April and October in
the other game reserves of Botswana the foliage
is scant and animals often gather around water
bodies. Day temperatures at the start of this dry
season hover around 25C. They rise steadily in
September, sometimes touching 40C. Nights and
early mornings are always cooler in these months.
Botswana receives heavy rainfall in January and
February, with daytime temperatures around 30C.
A hippopotamus is a
common sight in the
Okavango delta.
Other Sights
Atlas
Botswana has ten

national parks and
game reserves, and the
Okavango Delta World
Heritage Site. Khama
Rhino Sanctuary is
a popular stopover
for those driving to
the northern reserves
from Gaborone. The
park is a rare haven for
the endangered white
and black rhinos. The
jaw-dropping Tswapong
Hills in eastern
Botswana rise 1,300
feet, and stretch over 70
kilometres. Deep gorges
carved into flat-topped
hills, waterfalls, and the
occasional sighting of
the endangered Cape
Griffon vulture adds a
dramatic touch. The
hills were formed 1,800
million years ago, and
remain blessedly free
of tourist throngs. Visit
the official Botswana
Tourism website
botswana tourism.co.bw
for more information.
l Botswanas Jwaneng
Mine is the worlds
richest diamond mine
in value, with up to
15 million carats dug
annually.
l One of Earths top
concentrations of
rock artmore than
4,500 paintingslies
in Botswanas Kalahari
Desert in Tsodilo.
l Botswanas currency
is the pula, also a local
word for rain, which
is critical to this dry
nations survival.
BUENA VISTA IMAGES/STONE/GETTY IMAGES
Orientation
The Makgadikgadi salt pans (part of which is

protected as Makgadikgadi Pans National Park)
are located amidst dry savannah in northeastern
Botswana on the fringe of the Kalahari Desert.
The water-rich Okavango Delta is about 200
kilometres to the northwest. Located in the central
and eastern parts of Okavango, Moremi Game
Reserve is a frontrunner in more than one way and
supports the richest ecosystem in the country.
Maun is the regional hub for this area, and described
as Botswanas tourism capital. It is about 570
kilometres northwest of the capital Gaborone by
air. The privately owned game reserves of the Tuli
Blockalso in northeastern Botswanafeature
diverse flora and fauna. It lies about 530 km/7 hr
northeast of Gaborone.
137
GET GOING
143
active holiday
Four ways to feel the thunder
of Niagara Falls
ADVENTURE
138
adventure
Tramping through New Zealands
lake shores and alpine peaks
Wilderness for Heart and Soul

A
ll I could hear was the rain. A torrential deluge

from the heavens. I looked up from under the
hood of my jacket and glimpsed stormy skies
and quivering branches as raindrops stung my face.
No point in stopping, I thought, as I continued hiking
uphill. This was not what I had imagined my first day
on the Kepler Track on New Zealands South Island
would be like.
New Zealands Great Walks are world renowned
for their dramatic natural beauty and diverse
of landscapes. Hikers and backpackers come
to experience the grandeur of glacier-carved
valleys, dizzying mountain ridges, and tranquil
blue lakes. The most popular of the nine designated
Great Walks is the Milford Track, for which huts
have to be booked several months in advance.
138
The mountains
of New
Zealands
Southern Alps
frame jawdropping views
of Lake Te Anau,
the largest
freshwater lake
in Australasia.
The 60-kilometre Kepler Track loop was

introduced in 1988 to ease pressure on two other
walksMilford and Routeburnin Fiordland
National Park. However, Kepler is so stunning in
its own right that it is now ranked among the most
picturesque Great Walks in the country.
Hiking and backpacking in New Zealand is called
tramping. I tramped the entire Kepler Track over
four days and three nights, ploughing through
beech rainforests, balancing on foot-wide paths
atop alpine ridges, and scrambling through valleys
gouged by ancient glaciers. I was looking forward
to being in the wilderness, away from the modern
world and its incessant need for connectivity. I craved
solitude and introspection. I found this and more,
along with surprising bonds of friendship on the trail.
DAVID WALL/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
A TRAMPING TRAIL THROUGH NEW ZEALANDS BACKCOUNTRY | BY TRUPTI DEVDAS NAYAK
INTENSITY THE ALPINE CROSSING AND FREQUENTLY WINDY OR RAINY

WEATHER MAKES THIS WALK SOMEWHAT ARDUOUS IN PARTS.
ATLAS
Kepler
Track,
Fiordland,
New Zealand
Auckland
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch
Kepler Track,
Fiordland
One-third of
New Zealands
land is reserved
solely to create
national parks
and nature
reserves, and for
people to enjoy
the outdoors
and promote
ecotourism.
MODERATE
DEMANDING
Zealands Great Walks. They are basic but homely accommodations with heating, a common area, kitchen,
bunk beds, and toilets. Backpackers have to carry their
own sleeping bags and essentials like utensils, matches, and food. Drinking water and cooking gas are available, but there is nothing for purchase. At Luxmore
Hut, I met Pat, a passionate and endearing resident
ranger who gave us a tour of the premises while sternly reeling off the dos and donts. On his suggestion, I
hiked 15 minutes to the nearby Luxmore Caves. They
are a great place to applaud the handiwork of time
while admiring fantastic stalactites and stalagmites.
The next morning, a forecast of blue skies meant
clear views around the lakes. The weather played an
important role on the second day of the Kepler Track
because the trail is entirely above the bushline and
boasts unobstructed views of sweeping sierras in all
directions. I was ready to be blown away and I literally
was. Braving wind speeds of 60 kmph, with the snowcapped Murchison Mountains ahead, the south fiord
of Lake Te Anau on my right, and grassy slopes on
my left, I was on top of the world. The 14.6-kilometre
scenic alpine crossing from Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn
Hut has two emergency shelters, the Forest Burn
Saddle and Hanging Valley. The restrooms with jawdropping views are possibly the most panoramic
BILL HATCHER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
The starting point for the Kepler Track is the car

park on the southern end of Lake Te Anau in Fiordland
National Park. But due to the downpour, I took a
15-minute water taxi ride from the town of Te Anau on
the eastern shore of the lake to the western shore, where
the boat dropped me off at the Brod Bay trailhead.
The one thing I quickly learnt is that the weather in
New Zealand is utterly unpredictable. Clouds gather
and disappear with alarming capriciousness. After
hiking past limestone bluffs, panoramic views opened
up as I ascended above the bushline (treeline). Taking
in emerald green fields of the Te Anau basin, cerulean
lakes, and tussock-covered montane forest slopes, I
shed my waterlogged jacket with joy, the dreary rain
becoming a mere memory.
The 8.2-kilometre trail from Brod Bay winds
through a red and silver beech forest, climbing resolutely to Luxmore Hut at an elevation of 3,560 feet
with views of the Takitimu Mountains. Intrepid hikers
aspiring to finish the Kepler Track in 2-3 days often
forego staying at Luxmore and continue on the alpine
crossing to Iris Burn Hut. But that is not the best thing
to do, especially if your goal is to enjoy New Zealands
majestic natural beauty at a leisurely pace.
The huts established by the Department of
Conservation are one of the greatest things about New
EASY
The well-maintained trails have

boardwalks to cross marshes,
steps in steep sections, and
and sometimes, more natural
aids, like a fallen tree trunk.
139
N EW Z EA L A N D
toilets in the world.

New Zealand is a birdwatchers paradise. With no
natural predators (bats are the only native mammals),
there is a thriving bird population. On the Kepler
Track, you can see bellbirds, warblers, fantails, robins,
and chaffinches. The diminutive rifleman and brown
creepers are often seen in the lowland beech forest.
While hiking, I encountered many keas, the worlds
only alpine parrot. Bright green in colour, keas
are known for their intelligence and curiosity.
They boldly approach humans and are often found
investigating unattended backpacks and tents. At Iris
Burn, the brown kiwis ear-piercing whistles can be
heard at dusk.
Back on the alpine crossing, I gazed at the horizon
taking in the Jackson peaks and Kepler mountains
as they stretched to eternity. Standing on an exposed
ridge above the clouds, all other sounds were drowned
out except for the howling wind and my own ragged
breathing. The wind whipped at my exposed face but I
was oblivious to its biting tenacity. All around me was
surreal beauty, raw and intense. A two-foot wide trail
disappeared into the mountains, criss-crossing alpine
pinnacles with sheer drops on either side. Mustard
green and yellow tussock grass grew densely on the
slopes as patches of snow nestled amongst piles of
rocky rubble. I might very well have been in a scene
taken directly from the Lord of the Rings movies.
After the arduous crossing, I was happy to be hiking
downhill towards Iris Burn, even though my knees
140
Kepler Track
features the
highlights of
Fiordland, from
snowy mountains to sapphire
lakes (top);
Alpine parrots
or keas thrive
in this area
(bottom).
begged for mercy. After what seemed like hours of

walking, Iris Burn Hut finally made an appearance in
a large tussock clearing. Seeing the hut in the distance
was a welcome sight. It was even more satisfying to
walk in and spot familiar faces from the previous
night and exchange high-fives with shouts of You did
it! I met many travellers from all over the world on
the Kepler Track, all seeking something beyond the
routine of everyday life. We would pass each other on
the trail and exchange a thumbs up, a smile, or words
PHOTO COURTESY : TOURISM NEW ZEALAND (LAKE), BRADEN GUNEM/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (PARROT)
Get Going |
Dont forget
your flashlight
when exploring
the cathedrallike Luxmore
Caves (top left);
Every hut has
knowledgeable
resident rangers
who share
insights about
flora, fauna, and
conservation
efforts (top
right);The
trail is dotted
with bridges
spanning
waterfalls and
rivers (bottom).
Moturau Hut would lead me along the Waiau River

to the swinging bridge at Rainbow Reach, where a
waiting shuttle would transport me back to civilization. Recalling the words of naturalist John Muir, In
every walk with nature, one receives far more than he
seeks, I realised I had emerged stronger and happier
despite the challenges on the walk. Back on the trail
one last time, I walked joyfully under towering tree
ferns, as misty sunlight filtered through silver beech
trees, lighting my way. All I could hear were the birds.
141
TRUPTI DEVDAS NAYAK (CAVE & RANGER), PICTURES COLOUR LIBRARY/TRAVEL PICTURES/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (BRIDGE)
of encouragement. At night, sitting around dining

tables, a warm glow pervaded our small community of
hikers as we swapped anecdotes about fickle weather
and feisty keas.
By my third day on the Kepler Track, I felt like an old
hand at this tramping business. The 16.2-kilometre
trail from Iris Burn to Moturau gently meandered
through a rainforest of beech, podocarp, and myriad
ferns, framing picturesque waterfalls and lakes.
Ranger Beatty at Iris Burn Hut summed it up perfectly,
Yesterday, you hiked rugged peaks and summits,
braving high winds and pushing yourself beyond
your physical limits. Yesterday was for your body.
Today, you will hike through gentle woodland full of
birdsong. Today is for your soul.
And so it was. Walking through the beautiful forests,
I forgot the arduousness of backpacking and enjoyed
the shaded trails, admiring ferns lit by dappled
sunlight. The earthy smell of moss tickled my nostrils
as I stepped lightly on spongy turf. The previous
nights rain had washed every blade of grass, leaving
behind a hundred shades of green. Hiking past a large
slip near Rocky Point Shelter, I continued to Moturau
which would be my third and final hut on the track.
Situated on the placid shores of Lake Manapouri, with
stunning views of the surrounding Kepler mountains,
Moturau is the perfect site to take in impossibly high
peaks while marvelling at how far youve come.
The fourth and last morning on the Kepler Track
dawned bright and clear. The six-kilometre trail from
Get Going |
N EW Z EA L A N D
The Guide
Kepler Track is one of New

Zealands most popular Great
Walks, traversing 60 km in
3-4 days. The route forms a
loop starting and ending at
the Kepler Track Car Park on
the southern shore of Lake Te
Anau, making it convenient
to plan your entry and exit
point. The season typically
lasts from late October to
late April. It is possible to
hike the Kepler Track in the
opposite direction starting at
Rainbow Reach Car Park and
staying at Moturau Hut on the
first night. The section of the
trail from Rainbow Reach to
Moturau Hut on the shores
of Lake Manapouri is popular
with families who want to
experience a shorter part of
the track.
Stay Each hut on the track
where a hiker intends to stay
at must be booked online in
advance (booking.doc.govt.nz;
NZ$54/`2,451 per adult per
night). Backpackers typically
spend one night each at
142
Luxmore Hut, Iris Burn Hut,

and Moturau Hut. There are
two campsites as well, which
can be booked for NZ$18/`812.
Need to Know Tickets for
booked huts are available for
pick up two days prior to your
starting date from Fiordland
National Park Visitor Centre
at Lakefront Drive in Te Anau.
Check with the rangers at
the Visitor Centre before

starting the walk to get current
information on weather
and track conditions. More
information is available at www.
doc.govt.nz/keplertrack
Route
Day 1 Hike 5.6 km/1.5 hr from
Kepler Track Car Park to Brod
Bay and continue 8.2 km/4 hr
to Luxmore Hut. An alternative
At one of the huts, a rack of muddy hiking boots in all shapes and
sizes, belonging to travellers from around the world.
is to take the Kepler water taxi

from the dock in Te Anau and
cut across the lake to Brod
Bay, shaving off 1.5 hr from
your first days hike (www.
facebook.com/keplerwatertaxi;
+64-27-249 8365; NZ$25/
`1,135 per person).
Day 2 Cover the 14.6 km/6 hr
alpine crossing from Luxmore
Hut to Iris Burn Hut with stunning views of the fiords of Lake
Te Anau and the Murchison
mountains. There are two
emergency shelters along the
trail, one at Forest Burn Saddle
and one at Hanging Valley.
Day 3 Walk 16.2 km/6 hr
from Iris Burn Hut to Moturau
Hut along the shores of Lake
Manapouri.
Day 4 Hike 6 km/1.5 hr from
Moturau Hut to Rainbow Reach
Car Park or continue another
9.5 km/3 hr to Kepler Track
Car Park. You can arrange for
a pickup from Rainbow Reach
Car Park via Tracknet (www.
tracknet.net; +64-03-2497777;
res@tracknet.net; NZ$12/`545
per person).
FRANS LEMMENES/PHOTOGRAPHERS CHOICE/GETTY IMAGES (STREAM), TRUPTI DEVDAS NAYAK (SHOES)
From gushing waterfalls to

serene lakes, the Kepler Track
boasts an abundance of natural
beauty. Pack your swim gear for
a refreshing dip along the way.
Get Going |
CAN A DA
EASY
MODERATE
DEMANDING
ACTIVE HOLIDAY
INTENSITY WALKING ALONG THE TUNNELS BEHIND NIAGARA FALLS, SAILING IN A BOAT,
OR SITTING IN A HELICOPTER FOR A RIDE ABOVE THE FALLS ARE ALL EASY ACTIVITIES.
Feeling the Thunder

FOUR WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF NIAGARA FALLS IN CANADA | BY KAREENA GIANANI
Horseshoe
Falls, the most
visited part of
Niagara Falls
and named for
its distinctive
shape, is
split between
the U.S. and
Canada. About
a third of it
falls in the
American state
of New York,
while a majority
is in Ontario,
Canada.
Niagara Falls made it to my bucket list when it

almost stopped in its tracks. In early 2014, a cold wave
hit parts of Canada and the U.S. and partially froze the
three waterfalls. I remember seeing photograph after
photograph of icicles clinging to the rocks surrounding
Horseshoe Falls. The American and Bridal Veil falls
looked deathly white and still, as if holding their
breath. Those frozen images radiated immense power
and held me in a curious thrall.
BEHIND THE FALLS
Karen Mariano, my pigtailed, 50-something guide,

has lived in the town of Niagara Falls all her life. I
ask her whether she ever tires of this spectacle,
practically in her backyard. She laughs, and says
Ill know better when we ride 150 feet below the
Welcome Center in an elevator. Journey Behind the
Falls involves donning bright yellow rain ponchos,
and descending into the Cataract and Great Falls
143
PHOTO COURTESY: NIAGARA FALLS TOURISM
hear them before I see them. The thunderous roar

of Niagara Falls in Ontario, Canada, almost mutes
the babble of tourists swarming the observation
deck. Mist from the falls clings to me as I move closer
to the railing at the foot of the falls.
There it isglistening, emerald waters arching at
least 20 storeys down a U-shaped, 2,600-foot-wide
crest. This is Horseshoe Falls, the largest of the three
falls that make up Niagara Falls. In the distance, just
across the Niagara River, I see American Falls and
Bridal Veil Falls, located in New York state in the U.S.
Beside the leviathan that is Horseshoe, they seem puny.
We are separated by the Rainbow Bridge, an arched
bridge above the river, which connects the two countries. I wont be crossing it to reach the American side
as I dont have a U.S. visa. My eyes keep straying to the
37,470,338 gallons of water plummeting down Horseshoes cliff every minute. Great plumes of mist rise from
it and never really clear, as if transfixed; like me.
Get Going |
CA N A DA
Portals: the two, dimly lit tunnels built right behind

Horseshoe Falls.
The tunnels walls are lined with plaques commemorating the history of Niagara Falls and the daredevil
stunts attempted here over the past century. I learn
that the falls are almost 12,500 years old. Millions before me must have experienced the same fascination I
feel today. Some took it to newer heights. For instance,
in 1901, an American schoolteacher scooped up her
cat and brought her along to ride in a barrel over the
falls. The unlikely pioneers emerged unscathed. The
second person to attempt the feat a decade later broke
his kneecaps and jaw. I have humbler aspirations,
delighted just to watch a section of Horseshoe Falls
from a door-like opening in the tunnel. About five feet
separate me from the water, all spray and roar beyond
the barricade. A toddler ahead of me stands with her
mouth agape at what must seem like a mythical mist.
She occasionally waves her tiny palm in the air, trying
to grab hold of it.
Karen nods at her and tells me she still feels like that
little girl sometimes. She has known the falls before
jazzy hotels and casinos sprung up in the area. Every
autumn, she waits for the trees around the falls to turn
yellow-orange, for the mist to turn to frost. She also remembers couples getting married on the cruise to the
falls. Theres no getting enough of Niagara, she says.
After emerging from the tunnels, it is time to plunge
right into the heart of the falls. A 30-minute boat ride
will have me sail past the two American falls and take
me very, very close to Horseshoe Falls.
I look around at the 200-odd tourists on the upper
deck of my boat. Beneath identical red rain ponchos,
everybody seems to be having their own private moment
with the falls. An elderly couple beside me are holding
hands and silently watching two different waterfalls.
Two teenagers nearby furiously click pictures on their
smartphones. We pass the moss-covered rocks piled
at the base of the 100-foot-tall American and Bridal
Veil Falls. Im reminded of those surreal waterfall
animations Ive seen in films.
We are rapidly heading towards Horseshoe Falls.
It feels like someone has magicked time; everything
is happening too fast. Selfie sticks come out in a flash
and groups huddle together for photographs. I give
my own drenched camera a break and watch seagulls
bobbing on the Niagara River below. In seconds,
Horseshoe Falls looms above us; its water seems to
crash down in slow motion. I am a mere 15 feet away
from the falls, soaked and barely able to keep my eyes
open through the spray. Only when the boat recedes
do I notice the rainbow crowning the falls.
UP AND ABOVE
An hour later, I buckle myself into the seat of a

helicopter. For 20 dreamy minutes, we will soar right
above the falls. For the first time today, all three falls
fit into one sweeping frame. Both American falls look
144
Though pricey,
the helicopter
ride over
Niagara Falls
is a popular
attraction (top);
Those who
want to feel the
power of the
falls take an
elevator from
the Welcome
Center 150 feet
down to the
observation
deck to stand
in the mist
and hear the
thunderous
roar of the falls
(bottom).
like streaks of white painted on the vast, blue Niagara

River, but Horseshoe looks like a wild, smoking sea
creature. I also take in the dizzying vortex of the
Whirlpool Rapids, a four-kilometre whitewater stretch
on the river where waves soar to 15 feet.
The pilot tells me how some scientists speculate that
American Falls could dry up in 2,000 years. Niagara
Falls will disappear in 50,000 years due to erosion of
its bedrock, he says. Horseshoe Falls now erodes at the
rate of one foot per year, and has moved back 11 kilometres in 12,500 years. Bleak as it sounds, it is difficult
to imagine that the mighty Niagara Falls can come to
an end. It looks indestructible from this vantage point.
RAINBOW NIGHTS
Later that night I hop aboard a boat on the Niagara

River for a night cruise. My heart thumps in sync with
the loud music playing on the deck. Im surrounded by
boisterous groups and move to a quieter spot, beside a
couple in a world of their own.
Under the coal-black sky, Niagara Falls is lit up
in the colours of the rainbow. Every few minutes or
so, the colours change, going from pink to blazing
red to mythical purple. I remember my conversation
PHOTO COURTESY: NIAGARA FALLS TOURISM (HELICOPTER RIDE), NINO H. PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES (TOURISTS)
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