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RECENT TRENDS AND REGULATORY UPDATE FOR

EXPORTING APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS TO


EMERGING MARKETS
July 2014
Christy Chan

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Section

Content

STAY COMPETITIVE IN THE INDUSTRY

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES OVERVIEW FOR APPAREL AND


FOOTWEAR

SOLUTIONS TO THE MARKET

STAY COMPETITIVE IN THE INDUSTRY

MARKET SITUATION
Consumer safety in spotlight
Marks deliver trust
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)
more concerned
More green commitments

HOW TO BE SUSTAINABLY SUCCESSFUL?

Regulatory
compliance

Buyer/Customer
expectation

How could YOU stay competitive?

New markets

System
Improvement

VALUE ADDING IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN

RAW MATERIAL
Is it extracted in a
sustainable way?

END OF LIFE

Is there any
recycle system ?

PROCUREMENT
Is the material
hazard-free?

RETAIL

Is the service up to
standard?

DESIGN

MANUFACTURING

Is it a eco-friendly
design?

Is the worker condition


compliant with regulation?

OVERALL CONTROL

Are the goods ok for


shipment ?

PACKAGING

Is the package nonexcessive and green ?

REGULATIONS THROUGH THE


EMERGING MARKETS: THE TREND

CURRENT MARKET CHALLENGES


Global Regulatory Challenges

More and more countries are imposing regulatory requirements for the
presence of residual chemicals in textile and footwear products.
Brands and retailers need to meet differing requirements in order to gain
global market access.
National governments conduct surveillance to ensure compliance.

NGO Challenges
NGOs conduct market surveillance to ensure products are safe to use.
Most remarkable campaign (known as DETOX) was launched.
Emails, online social media (facebook, twitters), letters, street-side
campaigns aim to raise awareness amongst consumers.
This campaign initiated fundamental changes within the textile supply chain

RECENT RECALL CASES WORLDWIDE


EU RAPEX RECALL

Azo dyes
303 mg/kg

US CPSIA RECALL

Product: Childrens jeans


Date: 27 Dec 2013
RS Requirement:
Azo dyes: 30 mg/kg each
Corrective Actions:
Voluntary recall by suppliers
Country of Origin: Bangladesh

TAIWAN RECALL

Phthalate
38.2% DEHP

Sources:
1. EU RAPEX: http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/dyna/rapex/rapex_archives_en.cfm
2. US CPSIA: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prerel.html

Product: Childrens Shoes


Date: 20 Feb 2014
Requirement: No Sharp Edge
Corrective Actions: Product recall
Country of Origin: China

CHINA RECALL

Product: Infants walking shoes


Date: 1 April 2013
RS Requirement: Phthalate (DEHP+DBP+BBP+
DINP+DIDP+DNOP 0.1%w/w)
Other violation: No labelling and Country of Origin
Information
Corrective Actions: Product seizures
Country of Origin: Unknown

Laceration Hazards
Contains Sharp Edge

Formaldehyde
646 mg/kg

Product: Childrens leather coat


Date: 12 Nov 2013
RS Requirement: Free formaldehyde (150 ppm limit)
Corrective Actions: Does not say, but general footwear
buying tips have been given to consumers
Country of Origin: China

3.
4.

China AQSIQ: http://cpzljds.aqsiq.gov.cn/ (Chinese only)


Taiwan BSMI: http://www.bsmi.gov.tw/wSite/index.jsp (Chinese only)

WHEN EAST MEETS WEST


1970s

Japan established Japanese Law 112, with the earliest textile


chemical regulation for Formaldehyde in apparel in Asia

1990s

India is the second Asian country launching chemical regulation.


Certain Azo Dyes are banned in textile and apparel.

2000s

Introduction of China GB 18401-2003 in textile products


includes the restriction of Azo Dyes, Formaldehyde and pH value
More new regulations entered into force
Korea (KC Mark)
Taiwan (CNS 15290)
Egypt Regulations
Vietnam (Circular 32/2009/TT-BCT)

REGULATIONS THROUGH THE EMERGING MARKETS:


THE TREND
COMMON
RESTRICTED
SUBSTANCE

CHINA

EGYPT

INDIA

JAPAN

SOUTH
KOREA

TAIWAN

VIETNAM

Azo Dyes

Formaldehyde

pH value

Organotins

Phthalates

Flame retardant

Lead

Cadmium

Cr(VI)

Organotin

(proposed)

X
X

X
X

X
X

X
X

COMMON RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES

AZO DYES

What are Azo Dyes?


Dyes which contain at least one azo bond (-N=N-).
Outstanding fastness and wide spectrum
Major dyes in different dyes classes
Some of the aromatic amines in reductive cleavage are
carcinogenic
Only those produced aromatic amines which are listed/found
to be carcinogenic or suspected carcinogen are concerned!

Azo dyes

Aromatic amines

FORMALDEHYDE
What is Formaldehyde?
Volatile organic compound (VOC) with pungent odour
Major Applications
Raw material for RESIN in finishing textile and leather
upper materials
Leather preservative
Production of adhesives for outsole bonding
Concern in textile industry
Irritate to eyes, nose and respiratory system
Cause skin allergy and mucous membrane irritations

HEAVY METALS
Where they can be found?
Pigments, metal coatings, plastics (as a heat
stabilizer) and constituent materials
Examples: Lead, Cadmium
Concern in textile industry
Certain metals are highly toxic and can cause
damaging effects even at very low concentrations.
They tend to accumulate in the food chain and in the
body and can be stored in soft (e.g. kidney) and hard
tissues (e.g. bone)

NICKEL RELEASE
Where they can be found?
Making alloys with other metals to increase hardness
and resistance to corrosion
Added to cutlery to increase its strength and polish
Found in metal accessories : buttons, Zippers, Rivets
Concerned in textile industry
Trigger dermatitis owing to prolong contact

CHROMIUM (VI)
What is Chromium VI?
Chromium is a heavy metal. Chromium has several
oxidation states, including Cr(III) and Cr(VI).
Concern in textile industry
Used as dyes and pigments in fabric dyeing and leather
tanning process
leather is tanned by Cr(III) tanning agents in majority
[chromium(III) sulphate]
Corrosive to skin and can cause allergic reactions
Chromium (VI) and certain Chromium (VI) compounds are
known carcinogens

PHTHALATES
What are phthalates?
Mainly used as plasticisers in plastics (especially PVC) to
increase softness and flexibility
Concern in textile industry
Risk to human health and environment
Bioaccumulative
Endocrine disruptor
Carcinogenic listed

FLAME RETARDANTS
What is flame retardant?

Inhibit or resist the spread of fire


Used in textiles to reduce their flammability
Naturally occurring substances such as asbestos
Synthetic materials: usually halocarbons such as PBDEs, PCBs have
been used in this capacity:
Effective flame-retardant
applied to prevent electronics, clothes and furniture from taking fire

Concern in textile and footwear industry


These flame retardants are suspected to be carcinogenic and
mutagenic
They are bioaccumulative in the biological tissues and along the food
chain

ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
What are Organotin Compounds?
Compounds containing at least one tin-carbon bond

R = hydrocarbon group

Why they are concerned?


Very toxic to marine and freshwater organisms
Damage liver & kidney system
Disrupt biochemical process such as blood forming mechanism and
enzyme system

QUICK REVIEW OF CHEMICAL REGULATIONS

QUICK REVIEW OF CHINA REGULATIONS


GB 18401 - Textile Products
TEST ITEMS

CATEGORY A

CATEGORY B

CATEGORY C

Formaldehyde

20 mg/kg

75 mg/kg

300 mg/kg

pH value

4.0 7.5

4.0 8.5

4.0 9.0

Azo Dyes (24 items)

Forbidden (20 mg/kg)

Colourfastness
Water

34

Acid perspiration

34

Alkaline perspiration

34

Dry rubbing

Saliva

None

None

None

Odour

Products for infants (36 month or under) should comply with Cat. A technical requirement
Products with direct contact to skin should at least comply with Cat. B technical requirement
Products without direct contact to skin should at least comply with Cat. C technical requirement

QUICK REVIEW OF CHINA REGULATIONS

GB 20400 Leather and Fur


TEST ITEMS

CATEGORY A

CATEGORY B

CATEGORY C

Formaldehyde

20 mg/kg

75 mg/kg

300 mg/kg

Azo Dyes (23 items)

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

Category A: Products for babies ( 24 months)


Category B: Products with direct contact to skin
Category C: Products without direct contact to skin

QUICK REVIEW OF CHINA REGULATIONS


GB 21550 Restriction of Hazardous materials in Polyvinyl Chloride
Artificial Leather
Restricted Substance
Vinyl Chloride Monomer (VCM)

Restricted Limit
< 5 mg/kg

Soluble Heavy Metals:


Soluble Lead

< 90 mg/kg

Soluble Cadmium

< 75 mg/kg

Other Volatile Substances

< 20 g/m2

QUICK REVIEW OF EGYPT REGULATIONS


TEST ITEMS

ES 7266-3
HOME TEXTILE

ES 7266-4
GARMENTS

ES 7266-5
CARPET RUGS

ES 6535 /
ES 7322
LEATHER BAG

ES 3571 /
ES 3572 /
ES 7322
SHOES

Formaldehyde

Azo Dyes

Navy Blue

Carcinogenic Dyes

X
X

Phthalates

Flame Retardants

Cadmium

Lead
Nickel Release
Chromium (VI)

X
X

Soluble Heavy Metals

Pentachlorophenol

Vinyl Chloride Monomer

pH Value

QUICK REVIEW OF EGYPT REGULATIONS

TEST ITEMS
Formaldehyde

LIMIT
Textile and leather garment
Children product: 20 mg/kg
Direct contact with skin : 75 mg/kg
Indirect contact with skin: 300 mg/kg

Azo Dyes

30 mg/kg

Navy Blue

0.1%

Carcinogenic Dyes
Phthalates
Flame Retardants
Cadmium
Lead

Leather bag and shoes


Textile: 75 mg/kg
Leather: 150mg/kg

Prohibited
DEHP, BBP, DBP, DINP, DNOP, DIDP: 0.1% (each)
PBB, TRIS, TEPA: prohibited
Prohibited (50 mg/kg)
Children product: 300 mg/kg

Nickel Release

0.5 g/cm2/ week

Chromium (VI)

3 mg/kg

QUICK REVIEW OF EGYPT REGULATIONS


TEST ITEMS
Soluble Heavy Metals

Pentachlorophenol
Vinyl Chloride Monomer
pH Value

LIMIT
Antimony: 60 mg/kg
Arsenic: 25 mg/kg
Barium: 1000 mg/kg
Cadmium: 75 mg/kg
Chromium: 60 mg/kg
Lead: 90 mg/kg
Mercury: 60 mg/kg
Selenium: 500 mg/kg
Natural textile / leather : Free (1 mg/kg)
Natural substance (wood used in footwear): 5 mg/kg
1 mg/kg
Leather: not less than 3.5

QUICK REVIEW OF INDIA REGULATION


Notification No. 3 (RE 2001) / 1997-2002
Notification No. 12 (RE 2001) / 1997-2002
TEST ITEMS
Azo Dyes (22 items)

LIMIT
30 mg/kg

QUICK REVIEW OF JAPAN REGULATION


Act on Control of Household Products Containing Harmful
Substances (Act No. 112)
Requirement for textile products:
TEST ITEMS
Formaldehyde

LIMIT
Baby: Not detected (A-Ao <0.05)
Others: 75 mg/kg

Organotins (TBT, TPhT)

Not detected

Organomercury compounds

Not detected

Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons


(DBA, BaA, BaP)
Flame retardants (TEPA, TRIS, BDBPP)

3 mg/kg (each)
Not detected

DTTB

30 mg/kg

Dieldrin

30 mg/kg

Azo Dyes (proposed)

30 mg/kg

QUICK REVIEW OF TAIWAN REGULATION


CNS 15290 Textile Products
TEST ITEMS

BABY

DIRECT SKIN
CONTACT

INDIRECT SKIN
CONTACT

INDOOR
DECORATION

Formaldehyde

20 mg/kg

75 mg/kg

300 mg/kg

300 mg/kg

Azo Dyes

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

Not allowed

Not allowed

Not allowed

Not allowed

90 mg/kg

90 mg/kg

90 mg/kg

90 mg/kg

TBT: 0.5 mg/kg


TPhT: 0.5 mg/kg

TBT: 1.0 mg/kg


TPhT: 1.0 mg/kg

TBT: 1.0 mg/kg


TPhT: 1.0 mg/kg

TBT: 1.0 mg/kg


TPhT: 1.0 mg/kg

Cadmium (in textile


accessories)
Lead in surface coating
(children for age 12 only)
Organotins
Physical safety requirement
(children for age 12 only)

Comply with CNS 15291:2009

QUICK REVIEW OF SOUTH KOREA REGULATIONS


TEXTILE PRODUCTS
TEST ITEM
Formaldehyde

INFANT

CHILDREN

INNERWEAR

20 mg/kg

75 mg/kg

pH Value

4.0 9.0
30 mg/kg

TBT: 0.5 mg/kg

TBT: 1.0 mg/kg

DBT: 1.0 mg/kg

Dimethylfumarate
Phthalates (total)
Lead
Cadmium

0.1 mg/kg
DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP,
DNOP, DIDP: 0.1%

DEHP, DBP, BBP:


0.1%

N/A

N/A

N/A

90 mg/kg (metal: 300 mg/kg)

N/A

N/A

N/A

75 mg/kg

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Nickel Release
Cords and drawstrings

0.5 g/cm2/week
Conformance

Flame Retardants

Small Part

N/A
TDBPP, PentaBDE, OctaBDE: Prohibited

Disperse Dyes
Magnet

OUTERWEAR / B
EDDING
300 mg/kg

4.0 7.5

Azo Dyes
Organotins

MIDWEAR

Prohibited
50 kG2mm2
No small part after
tension test

N/A

QUICK REVIEW OF SOUTH KOREA REGULATIONS


LEATHER PRODUCTS
TEST ITEM

INFANT

CHILDREN

INNERWEAR

MIDWEAR

Formaldehyde

20 mg/kg

75 mg/kg

Pentachlorophenol

0.5 mg/kg

5 mg/kg

Chromium (VI)

0.5 mg/kg

3 mg/kg

Azo Dyes
Organotins

300 mg/kg

30 mg/kg
TBT: 0.5 mg/kg

TBT: 1.0 mg/kg

DBT: 1.0 mg/kg

Dimethylfumarate
Phthalates (total)

OUTERWEAR / B
EDDING

0.1 mg/kg
DEHP, DBP, BBP: 0.1%
DINP, DNOP, DIDP: 0.1%

DEHP, DBP, BBP:


0.1%

N/A

N/A

N/A

Lead

90 mg/kg

N/A

N/A

N/A

Cadmium

75 mg/kg

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Nickel Release
Magnet
Small Part

0.5 g/cm2/week
50 kG2mm2 or not small part
No small part after
tension test

N/A

QUICK REVIEW OF VIETNAM REGULATIONS


Circular 32/2009/TT-BCT for Textile Product
TEST ITEMS

CHILDREN
PRODUCT

DIRECT SKIN
CONTACT

INDIRECT SKIN
CONTACT

Formaldehyde

30 mg/kg

75 mg/kg

300 mg/kg

Azo Dyes (22 items)

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

30 mg/kg

QUICK REVIEW OF SAUDI-ARABIA


TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR WOVEN AND KNITTED
GARMENTS
TEST ITEMS

ph of the aqueous extract


Formaldehyde

LIMIT

4.0-7.5
kids: 20 ppm
Adult: 75 ppm

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