Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7
THE BOOT
ISSUE
Ankle to Over-the-Knee:
Mixed Textural Details
Enrich the Season
earthshoes.com
WOMENS COMFORT
WOMENS COLLECTION
CLOGS
NATIONAL CHAIN
c Taos
c Brother Vellies
c Born
c Nordstrom
c Birkenstock
c Tory Burch
c Swedish Hasbeens
c DSW
c Earth
c Dansko
c Foot Locker
MENS COMFORT
MENS COLLECTION
RAIN BOOTS
ONLINE RETAILER
c Rockport
c Cole Haan
c Joules
c Zappos
c Ecco
c Clarks Originals
c Chooka
c Shopbop
c Samuel Hubbard
c Common Projects
c Hunter
c ShoeBuy
BOOTS
WORK BOOTS
BEST COLLAB
BOUTIQUE
c Vince Camuto
c Wolverine
c Gigi Hadid x
c XTC on Melrose
c Stuart Weitzman
c Rocky
c Frye
c Timberland Pro
Stuart Weitzman
c Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik
c Shoegasm
c Clementines
c Cinderella x
ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE
SANDALS
c New Balance
c Birkenstock
Irregular Choice
SNEAKER BOUTIQUE
c Vans
c Spring Step
c Wish
c Adidas Originals
c Naot
c Rihanna x Puma
c Bodega
c Kith
ATHLEISURE
OUTDOOR STYLE
c Skechers
c Pikolinos
c Adidas
c Sorel
c Nike
c Ugg
c Kanye West x
Adidas Originals
CHILDRENS
c Sole Desire
c Keen
c Littles Shoes
c Skechers
c Under Armour
c Adidas
COMFORT SPECIALTY
c Schuler Shoes
c Jambu
c Birkenstock
JA N UA RY 2 0 17
Caroline Diaco
Publisher
FEATU R ES
12 Home Field Advantage
Scott Home, president of Fashion Major
Brands, is building his business the
old-fashioned way: great products,
partnerships and passion. By Greg Duttter
18 Trend Spotting
Our Fall 17 boots preview: the latest
materials, colors, patterns, silhouettes
weve got it covered from ankle to overthe-knee. By Ann Loynd
Photography by
Trevett McCandliss
Fashion editor/
styling: Ann Loynd;
hair and makeup:
Nevio Ragazzini/
Next Artists; model:
Jenny F./Red Model
Management.
PA G E
48
48 Indie Queen
Crushed velvets, posh prints and baroque
embroideries add wrapped-heel appeal to
ankle boots. By Ann Loynd
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell
Trevett McCandliss
Creative Directors
EDITORIAL
Ann Loynd
Fashion Editor
Emily Beckman
Associate Editor
Kathy Passero
Editor at Large
Melodie Jeng
Contributing Photographer
ADVERTISING/
PRODUCTION
Jennifer Craig
Associate Publisher
Katie Belloff
Associate Art Director
Production Manager
Allison Kastner
Operations Manager
Bruce Sprague
Circulation Director
Mike Hoff
Digital Director
OFFICES
Advertising/Editorial
135 W. 20th St., Suite 402
New York, NY 10011
Tel: (646) 278-1550
Fax: (646) 278-1553
editorialrequests@
9Threads.com
Circulation
26202 Detroit Road, #300
Westlake, OH 44145
Tel: (440) 871-1300
circulation@9Threads.com
Corporate
9Threads
26202 Detroit Road, #300
Westlake, OH 44145
Tel: (440) 871-1300
Xen Zapis
Chairman
Lee Zapis
President
Rich Bongorno
Chief Financial Officer
Debbie Grim
Controller
FOOTWEAR PLUS (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.,
New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not
responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no
responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. 2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.
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Come see us at: Chicago 1/24 - 1/25, Kansas City 2/6 - 2/8, Atlanta Shoe Market 2/11 - 2/13, TRU 2/12 - 2/13,
Portland 3/4 - 3/5, Platform 2/21 - 2/23, BSTA NH 2/26 - 2/28, Sole Commerce 2/27 - 3/1
the
OMEGA
ED ITORS NOT E
Magic Dust
Old-School Remedies
RECENTLY, A WELL-established independent retailer called me nearly at his
wits end. He said the first few weeks of the
holiday season had been especially challenging and exasperatingon the heels of what
had already been a pretty deplorable year. If
another balmy fall coupled with the election
from hell hadnt been enough of a drag on
sales, the apparent abandonment of longestablished industry practices was pushing
him to the brink of despair.
It started when a national chain slashed prices by 30 to 50 percent
on a major boot brands entire line, its MAP pricing policies be damned.
Rumor has it the chainlike a lot of retailerswas cash-starved and
desperate to move inventory that must have been figuratively sweating
on its shelves. The (assumed) consensus: The chain had no choice but
to jumpstart sales, even though off-price is a highly debatable strategy
for generating traffic among consumers long conditioned to expect
discounting and prone to shop only when they need a product, thanks
to the 24/7 immediacy of online retailing. So if its beach weather in
the heart of football season, shoppers dont need boots, even if theyre
priced 25-, 50- or 75-percent off.
As if that wasnt bad enough, another cornerstone brand of this
retailers fall merchandise mix decided to slash prices on a key style
on its direct-to-consumer (DTC) site. Apparently, the brand was also
sweating over its inventory backload and needed to generate sales
rather than wait to see whether the weather eventually cooperated.
From the perspective of this frustrated caller, competing against fellow
retailers as well as a growing legion of third-party sellers on price is
inevitable, but getting his legs cut out from under him by a longtime
partner made him question whether the concept of a vendor-retailer
partnership still exists. For the record, this retailer has sold the heck
out of the style in question for decades and has relied on it as a prime
source of revenue.
Increasing DTC competition from brands is one symptom of a
widespread sickness in our industry: over-distribution. And thanks
largely to the smartphone, shopping has mutated into a runaway,
margin-eating, brand-eroding cancer for both retailers and wholesalers. There is a potential cure: controlled distribution. While some
brands expand DTC efforts and retailers counter by upping the dosage on private label programs, neither are long-term solutions that
will lead to greater well-being for our industry. For starters, such a
divided landscape makes shopping inconvenient. Its like trying to sift
through a tower of branded babble. A controlled breadth of selection,
where shoppers cant whip out their phones and easily find the same
style cheaper elsewhere, is a more sustainable approach for retailers
and wholesalers. In this setting, brands can compete and generate
excitement about categories, allowing them to thrive.
When wholesalers and retailers meet in the middle to build strong
partnerships grounded in trust and better margins, they create a more
profitable and sustainable environment. Scott Home, president of
Fashion Major Brands, distributors of Coolway, Musse & Cloud and
Freestyle by Coolway and the subject of this months Q&A (P. 12), is
one proponent of the middle ground. While his private-label business
is on the uptick, the former retailer is quick to note that hed much
prefer to grow his wholesale brands the old-fashioned way: through
a controlled distribution of valued retail partners who are reasonable
on matters like freight, pricing and return policies. He believes its
a healthier approach for both sides. Home speaks from experience,
having been a turnaround specialist for Nordstrom shoe departments
for years, then a key figure in the impressive growth curves at Dr.
Martens and Diesel. Its quite a career legacy.
This issue is full of tried-and-true approaches. The strong heritage
brands and styles movement running through our Fall 17 outdoor
preview (p. 36) is one example. Our feature on why upgraded classics
are scoring again at retail (p. 42) is another. Last, our Whats Selling
profile (p. 40) of The Elephants Perch discusses how, for four decades,
this Idaho-based specialty outdoor store has maintained its foothold
against all odds. Indeed, whats old and proven might very well serve
as a worthy New Years resolution. To that end, be sure to check out
the inspiring resolutions in our roundup for Last Word (p. 68).
This brings me back to that retailers phone call. As we discussed
potential answers to his problems, we found that some of the best ideas
involved old-fashioned business practices. For example, discovering and
nurturing new brands and dropping overexposed ones. Brainstorming
solutions had a calming effect on both of usparticularly after a year
that can best be described as surreal (the most searched word in 2016,
according to Merriam-Websters dictionary), when many industry
members floundered or were forced to the exits. Living in a world of
seemingly unsolvable problems is stressful. Its comforting to remember
that readily available solutionsstrategies that have proven to work
many timesmight just be the elixir weve all been searching for.
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
www.gabor.de
THIS JUST IN
2017 Collection
My Islands take me to my friends,
my special places, and the things I love.
www.islandslipper.com
HAND-MADE
IN HAWAII
SINCE 1946
Ugg
flagships
RFID mat
informs
shoppers
whats in
stock.
Brave
Cool
World
BRICK-AND-MORTAR retailers
have been taking it on the chin
of late. Theyve been getting beat
up at the register and largely
dismissed for being an outdated,
low-tech, slow-to-react format
that nearly everyone predicts
will be a thing of the past in the
not-too-distant future. While
there are some truths in these
scathing assessments, they also
might be a tad over-the-top. For
starters, even Amazon is opening brick-and-mortar stores,
and, according to a recent Pew
Research Center survey, online
accounts for just 11 percent of
total retail sales.
Whats also wrong is the
assumption that the physical
store will remain a destination
for a dwindling number of luddites. Not true. Try these hightech gadgetslike bots, virtual
reality goggles (enabling one
to envision a dining room set
in their home) and interactive
try-on mirrorsthat are making their way into stores now.
A bot, for example, can guide a
customer through the aisles to find
requested items. A smart mirror
can make recommendations of
the perfect outfit to go with those
snazzy new boots. The experience
is less time-consuming. More
importantly, such new technologies are just super-cool, making
a brick-and-mortar experience
fresh and entertaining, not to
mention a way for retailers to
generate add-on sales.
Radio frequency identification
(RFID), which enables data to
be embedded into clothing tags
so items can be tracked in the
store, is another new gizmo being
introduced. Ugg and, believe
it or not, Zappos have tested
RFID. Zappos installed a Magic
Checkout in a pop-up shop in San
Francisco where shoppers walked
over an RFID-reading mat that
scanned the tags and, through
mobile payment, their purchases
were completed in seconds. Uggs
use of RFID involves another
magic carpet of sorts: When a
customer steps onto the carpet
in tagged boots, style tips and
product information (like what
styles are in stock) appear on the
nearby screen.
Traditional brick-and-mortar
retailers like Nordstrom and
Bloomingdales are also in beta
mode on smart dressing room
mirrors. Rebecca Minkoff has
smart mirrors up and running
in her flagships. Theres even
the ability to try an outfit on
without trying it on. Pretty
cool, indeed.
Worth a Visit
SO JOO DA Madeira is often referred to as a Capital da Calada
(the Capital of Footwear). The Portuguese city and its surrounding
areas has been a wonderland of footwear manufacturing and fashion for decades, and now it has the Footwear Museum dedicated to
celebrating its rich history.
The Footwear Museum currently boasts more than 500 shoes on
display out of a collection of more than 7,000. In addition, visitors
can marvel at the machinery, tools and stories from generations of
Portugals legendary shoemakers.Theres even a time tunnel that
transports the visitor through history via the evolution of footwear. In
addition, a section on contemporary art as it relates to footwear, Shoe
Me Again, lends an inspirational aspect to the museums experience.
We hope visitors realize the evolution of the Portuguese footwear
industry, which is currently present in all the major international
stages of fashion, incorporating more and more design, technology
and creativity, says Ricardo Oliveira Figueiredo, mayor of So Joo
da Madeira.This museum belongs largely to the entrepreneurs and
workers from the shoe industry. We want them to take ownership of
it and use it as an instrument of industry competitiveness.
Figueiredo says since the museum opened its doors in the fall, it has
become a destination for industry professionals and entrepreneurs
seeking a leg up on the competition. Here, he says visitors can learn
about past success stories as well as be inspired by new ones. We
are promoting a sector that has a unique history in our country and
a very bright future ahead, he says.
High Praise
IN LINE WITH its earth-centric brand philosophy, Astral is
introducing 77-percent Cannabis
Sativa (commonly known as
hemp) uppers in its Donner
and Tinker styles for men and
women, respectively, for Fall
17. Besides being eco-friendly, the material reportedly sports
better abrasion-, tensile-, tear- and UV-resistance than cotton.
Hemp was an easy choice for us, says Christie Dobson, vice
president of sales and marketing. Its durable, antimicrobial and
breathable, and its also petroleum-free and grown without pesticides,
herbicides or fertilizers. Suggested retail for both styles is $100.
fw_01_17_Scen&Heard_01.indd 10
1/24/17 11:23 AM
sporto.com
HOME
FIELD
ADVANTAGE
W i t h a p r o v e n t r a c k r e c o r d , S c o t t Ho m e , p r e s i d e n t o f
Fa s h i o n Ma j o r B r a n d s ( d i s t r i b u t o r o f C o o l w a y, M u s s e & C l o u d
a n d Fr e e s t y l e b y C o o l w a y ) i s b u i l d i n g t h e b u s i n e s s t h e
old-fashioned way: great products, partnerships and passion.
BY GR EG D U T TE R
O&A
asked where he was going to open stores, and my dad said, Right outside
of your stores because I guarantee you are going to be missing size sevens,
and Ill have them, Home says.) In particular, Home credits his father for
instilling a work ethic in him that led to his 24/7 approach to the business.
One of his fondest childhood memories, in fact, is of Sundays when he and
his father would climb a hill on the family farm and tally the weekly store
receipts. We would see where we were for
the week, and then we would chop wood
for an hour or two, Home recalls. That
was his way of teaching me a good work
ethic and discipline. We chopped a lot of
wood every week.
What are you reading?
That discipline has come in handy as
Killing of the Rising Sun
Home introduces three new brands to the
by Bill OReilly. I also read
U.S. marketCoolway, Musse & Cloud
the Bible every night for
and Freestyle by Coolwayunder his new
10 to 15 minutes before I
umbrella company, Fashion Major Brands.
go to bed. To me, its like
The company opened shop in Culver City,
another history book.
CA, in 2013, following several short stints
ton of volume, but we got it placed in the right spots, he says. And despite a
rough year for the industry overall, Home says his sales tripled, and he projects
a 40 percent increase for 2017. I think this company can be a major player
in the next couple of years in this country, he adds. And while Homes track
record and the relationships he has built over the years factor into his growth
plans, the longtime former retailer knows that will only go so far. Youre only
as good as your last shipment. If the shoes
arent good, people wont continue to give
me orders because they like me, Home
explains. I believe in the product and, if I
do my job with the design team properly,
well continue to grow the brands.
still alive. His passion
Homes track record for building bigfor product, the way
league brands is evident. Its as though he
he presented it and his
has been groomed from childhood to be
knowledge of this business
successful in this business. He has a firm
were incredible. Of anybody
grasp on both the retail and wholesale
living, [Skechers CEO]
sides of the equation, which is enhanced
Robert Greenberg because
by a genuine love of product. The numhe knows how to market
bers speak for themselves, but Home has
and sell stuff, period. The
always been dialed in on how you achieve
guy is great.
them: product, product, product. Asked
what he loves most about the shoe busiWhat was your firstness, he replies, Thats easy. Its product
ever paying job? In my
first. Ive just got a passion for footwear.
familys stores [Home Shoe
Home notes that whenever he presents
Company] at age nine,
shoes and sees peoples eyes light up, its
working in the stockrooms
like opening Christmas presents for him.
on Saturdays for $5 a day.
Shoes have just gotten into my blood, he
says, adding that every level of the busiWhich talent would you
nessproduct, materials, people, building
most like to have? To build
an organizationexcites him. I guess Im
something, like a house, or
entrenched, and thats partly my dads
be able to fix a car, because
fault for bringing me into this business
the only thing I have ever
and teaching me all about it, he says. I
done is work in the shoe
was fortunate to have one of the best shoe
business.
guys ever as my coach. He taught me that
this isnt just a one-dimensional job. I was
What is your favorite
taught all aspects, and I love all aspects.
hometown memory?
Im very lucky in that regard.
Growing up with my eight
brothers and sisters on our
Having built major brands, how would
nine-acre farm in Lake
you assess the introduction of Coolway,
Oswego, OR. We had horses
Musse & Cloud and Freestyle by Coolway
and cows, and it was just a
to date? Are they where you expected
beautiful place.
them to be?
easy street
1-800-826-6430
O&A
protect the shelf space and sales they had from the previous year, even
though in some instances they know the shoes arent as good. Everybody
is just too cautious.
What niches are you aiming to fill with your brands?
For 2017, Coolway will become a much more junior brand. It will be a
lot more Asian-made product and a lot trendier. When we introduced
Musse & Cloud this year, because it and Coolway were made in Spain,
they kind of overlapped. I had to find a new identity for Coolway. Musse
& Cloud, in contrast, will be more middle-of-the-road Dolce Vita and
Jeffrey Campbell level of fashion. And Freestyle by Coolway will be more
athleisure, but not entirely.
Meaning?
I want Freestyle by Coolway to break into the sneaker market, but I dont
want it to compete directly with Nike, Skechers or any of those guys. We
want to make sneakers that are comfortable, colorful and a little bit different. It wont look like just another tennis shoe or jogger. Freestyle is a
lot like the concept we did at Diesel; we made a hybrid between sneakers
and street shoes, and it worked really well. I think thats what this market
is really crying for now because all their options are either tennis shoes
or booties over and over again. And with tennis shoes, consumers want
the brand name of Nike, Adidas, Puma, etc. So we are creating something
totally different. Itll still have sneaker influences, but its going to be
another category of casual footwear.
Will Freestyle by Coolway be strictly athleisure?
No. Well also have boots, over-the-knee boots, sandalsit will be a complete line. We believe there are a lot of people that dont want to wear
just sneakers or booties. They are looking for alternatives. If we design
the right shoes and launch the brand properly, then Freestyle should be a
big growth vehicle for us. To get the ball rolling, well have this amazing
electronic booth at FN Platform next month thats all white and, when a
shoe is lifted off the display, the entire wall changes to the color of that
particular shoe. When its put back on the shelf, the wall changes back to
white. Were also in the process of signing an up-and-coming actress to be
our brand ambassador and well be rolling out a fleet of Freestyle trucks
for a college tour this year. Students can try on shoes and order them via
our iPads. We may have one of the Freestyle trucks for the August show in
Las Vegas as part of a parking lot party.
What do attribute Musse & Clouds initial success to?
Ill tell you exactly why: The shoes are a little bit different in the way
we interpret the trends. They have a lot more going on, the leathers
are great, the made-in-Spain factor is huge and the price points, at
$100 to $120 for this level of quality, is amazing. Good buyers and
shoe aficionados can still identify intrinsic value in footwear, and these
shoes have a lot of that value.
Well, its encouraging that some buyers can identify and appreciate
intrinsic value in shoes.
Thats one of the big problems with the shoe business these days. There
are fewer and fewer people who are actually shoe aficionados. People who
really love the product and will pick up a shoe and say, Oh my God, this
construction is amazing, these leathers are fantastic People that truly
know and appreciate the difference.
So, in presenting your brands to buyers who may be relying on spreadsheets more than their eye, what do you say?
I point out the attributes of the productthe leather qualities and, in the
case of Musse & Cloud, the made-in-Spain factor. I tell then about the
heritage of our company, that its a family-owned business and that they
are honorable people. This business is not so filled with honorable people,
anymore. If there are issues with our product, well certainly take care of
them. In my heart, Im a retailer. We are here to help. If a retailer wants
us to go into their stores to educate their sales crews, well do so gladly. In
general, I have my reps do things the way we did in the old days, like trunk
shows and in-store presentations. Many brands have gotten away from that
because its deemed not cost effective. They see their accounts at shows
and thats the last time theyll see them until the next show. Thats no way
to grow an independent business. Youve got to be in their stores and see
what those businesses are like. I love doing that.
If its a proven strategy, why is it becoming increasingly rare?
Two main reasons. First, its just much harder today for older sales reps to
make the same amount in commissions compared to when, years ago, there
were 15 brands that were all hot and they couldnt get enough shoes to ship.
Thats not the case these days. It requires a lot more effort on their partto
be in the stores and make the sales happen. Secondly, many of the younger
people in our business feel entitled and dont know how to travel, nor do
they want to. They are basically really lazy. I still do everything, whether
its shipping shoes, working in the factories to help build a line, attending
as may reps meetings as possible and visiting retailers in their stores. Im
a hands-on, in-the-field kind of guy. So, I guess to answer your question,
we dinosaurs are a dying breed [laughs].
How would you assess the past year overall at retail? Was it really as
bad and disruptive as many claimed?
It was crazy and it was bad. I heard nothing but horror stories speaking
with rep and retailer friends. Retail is confused because there is not enough
direction and not enough uniqueness. While the weather has been part of
the problem, the biggest issue is third-party selling online and the fact the
same shoes are everywhere. So a customer walks into a Nordstrom, tries
on a pair and then walks outside and buys it on her phone from Amazon.
Brick-and-mortar retailers are the ones who are getting hurt the most.
Having said that, a lot of my growth is coming from opening small clothing
boutiques. Ive got my guys doing apparel shows, and youd be amazed by
how many new stores are out there that want to buy 36- or 48-pair runs
and double it the next season.
That requires a lot of effort to find and service those accounts that a
lot of bigger brands wont bother with, correct?
Thats exactly right. Our pride is not too big; well take any sized order if the
store is right for us. Another factor contributing to the sameness at retail
is that while we all chase the same trends, the trick is to do so a little bit
differently than everybody else. Its really easy for someone to go online and
look at a Jeffrey Campbell shoe and make the exact same one except for a
different buckle. Our industry has become too vanilla, and thats another
reason why stores all look the same. Whats more, today everybody sells
everybody on all levels of distribution.
It seems as though all retail formats are in a state of upheaval and
uncertainty?
Retailers in general are so confused right now because there are so many
things going on all at once and nobody can figure out whats going to take
hold. We all know that online will continue to be a big deal. We also know
that major vendors are selling retailers like Target, Payless and Walmart.
Ten years ago, they only carried closeouts, and now they are buying special
makeups, like Dolce Vitas DV line for Target. A big portion of my growth is
going to come from makeups, as well. We do a private label program >65
HOME RUNS:
FROM DOCS TO
DIESEL
H o w a c o l d c a l l c h a n g e d S c o t t H o m e s
career trajectory and put him in the
c o p i l o t s s e a t o f o n e o f t h e g r e a t b r a n d
r u n s i n f o o t w e a r h i s t o r y.
T R E N D S P OT T I N G
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Tamaris USA INC. 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando, FL 32814 office (407) 514 2734 theschuh@tamaris.us tamaris.com
T R E N D S P OT T I N G
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1/6/17 11:39 AM
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Sorel
Teva
Bogs
with the Eagle and Solo. For Fall 17, the brand
is reintroducing these classic silhouettes using
modern sew-up uppers, full-front comfort
features, cushion and flexbility, while still
respecting its heritage with the classic design.
We protect and cherish the products our
consumer cherishes every day, but also are not
afraid to listen to consumers and move our key
drivers forward as materials/processes help
improve experiences, says Martin Mellish,
vice president of active lifestyle product. Our
product is not meant for glass cabinet status,
we are not building collectors items. Our
heritage is built on experiences and living an
amazing outdoor lifestyle.
Sorel is also blending authentic style and
functionality, reaching back into its 50-plus
years of archives for design cues. Marion Minary,
product line manager, singles out its Joan of
Arctic Wedge Mid, Dacie Lace and Caribootie
styles as highlights of the fall collection. A
strong sense of heritage helps to maintain
consumer trust in the brand, she says. Our
customers know these values are represented
in our bootswhether its an elegant wedge
or a rugged snow bootand this is one reason
they continue to come back to us. Sorel is
also introducing a new hiker-inspired boot,
Sneakchic Alpine. Minary assures the flat,
ankle-height silhouette will speak to customers desires for variety in both heel and upper
height. The premium leather-and-suede upper
and gold hardware matched with a tough lug
outsole exemplify Sorels unique intersection
of protection and style, she says.
Sean Beers, president of Portland Product
Werks, licensee of Woolrich Footwear, is also
focusing heavily on the brands roots (known
as the original outdoor clothing company)
for fall. The difference this time, however, is
such styles will be categorized as outdoor and
comfort as opposed to fashion. They all feature
performance elements that enable them to
exist for reasons other than their pure design
aesthetic, he explains. The new styles will
feature traction outsoles, waterproof materials and constructions, athletic fit and natural
linings rather than just a trendy look. For
example, Woolrichs Fully Wooly cold-weather
boot wraps the foot in real wooloffering an
authentic insulation story as a point of difference to competitors that typically rely on
synthetic technologies.
Teva is also tapping into its rich historyone
that dates back to the 80s and white-water raftingas a badge of authenticity for consumers.
The Fall 17 casual collection builds on the success of heritage favorites with updated design
iterations. The popular Arrowood collection and
Rockport
Timberland
Woolrich
Ecco
Bearpaw
Wolverine
Emu Australia
Chooka
Over 1 billion
people have
comfortably walked
the earth in shoes
made with
Jones & Vining
components.
Lasts
Midsoles
Outsoles
W H AT S SE LLI N G
Outdoor Specialty
What were your best-selling shoe brands for 2016? We are doing
really well with La Sportiva and Scarpa. In the past, Asics and Salomon
have performed well. Overall, I think lesser-known brands are actually
coming forward for us now due to our backcountry running, hiking
and backpacking clientele. Most of the inventory is performance;
only about 10 percent is casual. It used to be more, but the trend I
see happening now is people looking for footwear that is going to
do more than one thing. They want to use it for multiple sports.
What were the best new brands added to the mix this past year?
Weve done well with Hoka One One and Altra, but I also picked
up a little brand called Astral that mainly produces water shoes.
It has cool styles, and they are planning to expand their line soon.
What inspires your buying decisions? Ive always looked for
innovationwhats new. I like to try something different. I think
people look toward us to see whats new in the outdoor market, so
I always try to stay on the forefront.
Any surprises in 2016? Our performance running footwear was
very slow. Probably half of what Ive sold in the past. I think this was
caused by a lot discounting, especially with places like The Sports
Authority shutting down. I took action for next year by ordering less
and just cautiously waiting to see what happens with the market.
How do you think your business faired in what has been a tough
year for retail overall? We did ok, but I did cancel a lot of orders. I
was definitely more cautious. I just think there is a lot of merchandise
available out there. For our clientele, we are kind of a small business
in a resort area, so it is really hot or cold. Our down times are pretty
quiet. Its hard for us to change the footwear mix every six months;
it just doesnt really work. Its easier to stick to the best-selling styles
and plan a mix that caters to the most important customers when they are
here. Its certainly a juggling act.
Ketchum, Idaho
OR MORE THAN 40 years, The Elephants Perch, an outdoor specialty store in Ketchum, ID, has catered to the areas
explorative community with a 5,000-square-foot shop teeming with high-performance apparel and equipment backed
by an experienced and outdoor-savvy sales staff. Much of the
merchandiselike skis, helmets and paddlesis available
for rent in order to inspire patrons to get outside and try new
activities. Our goal is to perpetrate an active lifestyle and give back to the
community, says Liza Wilson, the stores hard goods buyer for more than 25
years. It has always been part of our DNA.
Wilson says Bob Rosso, owner and founder, is to thank for the longevity
of The Elephants Perch as well as its catchy name, which is after a nearby
domed rock popular with climbers amid the mostly jagged Sawtooths range.
Bob is incredibly involved in the community, she notes. He and his wife
are always facilitating events to draw people together for healthy fun. In
fact, The Elephant Perchs website contains an updated calendar of seasonal
outdoor events that allow the community to come together for everything
from a weekend ski race to an evening bike ride led by members of the staff
or local guides. Emily Beckman
What sets the store apart from the competition? Location and service. We
are centrally located, and people come to us if they want to take a hike or go
rock climbing in the Sawtooth Mountains. People sometimes just come here
to pick our brains on where to go when planning a unique trip. We have five
mountain ranges around us, which we use to plan our events. Weve held
cross-country ski races and backcountry runs for years, as well as a Nordic
event. Bob is on several recreational boards that help meet the community
and ultimately draw in customers.
What is the smartest decision you made recently? Hopefully, ordering less
for next year will be a smart decision. And changing my mix from technical
running to more hiking. I think the key is trying to buy footwear that is more
useful for a broader range of activities.
What is the biggest challenge facing your business right now? Id say
the universality of online retailing, making our competition everywhere. To
counteract that, service is key. We have to be friendly and helpful in all ways.
Thats what weve always done though, so we will just continue to do that.
We spend a lot of time giving people information and things that dont cost
money but are valuable to our area.
What is your fastest-growing customer or category segment? The younger
customer is probably the fastest-growing segment. We do a lease program for
kids to get them into Nordic skiing. We also do a bicycle giveaway. We work
with a bike company that provide free bikes to local kids. Theres another
running program called Girls on the Run, and we give free socks. We are very
active in the community, allowing the young people to grow their passion for
various sports. We also use social media to reach out to the younger customer.
How do you envision your store in 10 years? Im not sure what that future
is going to look like. I almost envision stores as showrooms. People would
come and try on things and then order online. Things are changing pretty
quickly. I hope we are hereI hope we are doing business as usual, but you
just dont know.
JAN 31-FEB 2
TUESDAY-THURSDAY
NEW YORK HILTON MIDTOWN
& MEMBER SHOWROOMS
REGISTER AT FFANY.ORG
@FFANYSHOESHOW
FFANY.ORG
FUTURE SHOW DATE:
MAY 31 ! JUNE 2
The New
Classics
Whats old is new again, as
brands reintroduce traditional
favorites with fined-tuned
aesthetics and upgraded comfort.
By Ann Loynd
for NPD Group, believes todays consumer expects the benefits of modern design in classic styling. A couple of brands tried to bring back shoes
exactly like they were made, and they were not successful, he says, adding, The consumer wants the concept of retro but expects a modern shoe.
Powells concept of retro is in step with consumers current love of
all-things nostalgia. Take, for example, the current classic alpine boot
craze, spanning trail-worthy replicas to runway iterations, or the ongoing affection for heritage brands. Theres a nostalgia right now around
things that are olda simpler time without the stresses of what were
going through today, Powell explains. He cites a recent Rolling Stone
issue completely devoted to the 90s as an example, along with recently
robust sales in retro athletic footwear styles. He reports that the classic
athletic category is the hottest trend in athletic footwear, which grew at
a 29-percent clip through the fall of 2016 and shows few signs of slowing anytime soon. He adds that virtually every major brand with older
styles in their vault is participating. Theres a massive trend back to retro
thats bringing back old TV shows to retro sneakers, Powell confirms.
Everyone is on the retro bandwagon these days, agrees Louise Dirks,
who is buying an assortment of throwback styles for Fall 17 at her
Canadian retail chain, Gravitypope. Its being done in a new modern
way with lightweight/comfort aspects, and, in that frame, retro works.
Two such examples are the recent remakes of Converses Chuck Taylor
All Starthe shoes first overhaul in nearly 100 yearsand Vans Classic
Slip-On. In the case of Converse, the new design incorporates parent
company Nikes Lunarlon foam insoles, a padded tongue and microsuede lining, along with such stylistic tweaks as monochrome eyelets,
premium canvas and a fully embroidered patch. It looks like a Chuck
but wears more like a Nike Free. The debut in 2015 generated instant
buzz at retail. The Converse Chuck II with elevated materials, clean outsoles void of foxing and the addition of Nike Lunerlon insoles provided
consumers with comfort as well as a modern feel to the classic, attests
Dirks. She adds that the strategic launch with an elite group of retailers created an immediate demand in the market.
RENEWAL RAVES
The remake of the Vans Classic Slip-On is considered one of the best
in recent memory. If there was ever a silhouette with retro aesthetics
that could benefit from a design upgrade to its original clunky, stiff and
heavy vulcanized construction, it was this shoe. Thanks to an UltraCush
Lite sole and added heel cushioning that combine to improve
Vans
Old
fit, flexibility and increase comSkool
fortall in a lighter-weight packPro
agethe Classic Slip-On has
been reborn. It became a fashion darling, even seen on several runways. For sure, the style
expanded well beyond its base
of primarily male surfers and
skaters. Vans quickly followed
that remake with several others,
including the Old Skool Pro this past holiday season, which included
an array of skateboarding technology upgrades like UltraCush sockliners, Duracap reinforced underlays placed in high-abrasion areas
and a slimmer last for a closer fit in the heel, arch and forefoot. As far
as aesthetics, the foxing is wrapped a little higher, the vamp lengthened slightly and the collar adjusted. All these choices were made
to improve fit and increase the life of the Old Skool Pro, as well as a
cue back to some of the best details when [the shoes] were manufactured in California, explains Neal Shoemaker, designer. He adds that
fw_01_17_Classics_Feature_03.indd 42
1/6/17 11:43 AM
WHATS ON TAP
Look for more classic remakes to land
o n s t o r e s h e l v e s i n 2 0 1 7.
TEVA: SO ORIGINAL
An integral part of Tevas DNA, the Original sandal collection will be revamped for this spring with
a FloatLite contoured footbed for added support. The brand is also reviving a fan favorite from
the 90s, the Alp sandal (dubbed Alp Premier).
Its available in a range of vintage outdoor hues
and updated with FloatLite technology. Fall 17 will
include seasonal color updates and new materials in the Universal Puff sandal inspired by vintage
camping accessories and the Universal Premier,
available in expanded rich leathers.
FRYE: GIDDY UP
This spring brings the Frye Western Reissue collection, a revival of styles saddled in history as
far back as the 40s. Highlights include the Tulsa
Firebird, a modernized, studded and supple take
on its stiff, veg-tanned predecessor; the Holly
Brogue Short from the 90s vault, reinvented with
three-dimensional, burnished leather; and Ross
Braided Tall, a 60s-era cowboy classic reimagined
with padded stitching and a two-tone finish.
ADIDAS: ADDED BOOST
Adidas Stan Smith and Superstar classic silhouettes rose to it status over the past few seasons. In an effort to keep the momentum strong,
the brand is giving each a re-boost in the form of
its modern-day midsole technology attached to
the classic uppers. Its a softer, more flexible ride
packaged in two of the most iconic retro fashion
statements. A.L.
UGG OR UGH?
One might assume that genuine improvements in constructionbe it
lighter weight, increased flexibility or improved cushioningwould
always be received well. However, its not always a guarantee. Sometimes
product improvements do not translate at the store level because marketing fails to communicate the upgrades, especially when they are not
easily identifiable to the eye.
Take Uggs re-boot of its Classic, dubbed the Classic II, that hit stores
this fall. The silhouette looks nearly the same as the original but the
uppers are now water- and stain-resistant, a leather heel plate is sturdier, and a new Treadlite outsole offers improved traction. Weve incorporated these innovative technologies, allowing our customer to brave
the elements while still wearing their Classics, says Jennifer Somer, vice
president of womens & lifestyle, adding, This is without a doubt >59
44
G O O D C O M PA N Y
PAIRED WITH RELAXED APPAREL, BROGUE BOOTS KICK IT UP A NOTCH.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
45
Thursday Boot
Company chocolate
lace-ups, Stetson
bowler, Spectre &
Co. scarf. Opposite,
clockwise from top
left: Cat mixedmaterial lace-up
and Clarks lug-sole
brogue; wingtips
by Wolverine;
Timberland brogue
work boots;
Rockport dress
boot; ornamented
lace-up by Samuel
Hubbard; Cole Haan
burnished brogue.
Fashion Editor:
Ann Loynd; model:
Dennis O.
46
47
48
Summit side-zip
booties, Mavi jeans,
vintage coat. Zadig
& Voltaire sweater
available at
Bloomingdales.
49
50
51
55
57
EDITORS PICKS
Ariat
Seven
Dials
D E S I G N E R C H AT
COVER
STORY
Nine West
Are men, in fact, becoming more fashionforward? Dudes are starting to care more.
Whenever we do t-shirts, men are willing
to spend $60 or $70. They see the difference and care about where theyre made.
Tell me about your new womens line.
I knew when I had my shoe store in San
Francisco that women just buy more shoes,
so I wanted to take on the challenge. It will
be two boots and two shoes. The Helm
boots for women have a tomboy look with
a sexy feel.
Why is it important for you to manufacture
in the U.S.? Manufacturing in Istanbul
became difficult for quality control and
E D I TO R S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J O S E P H P LU C H I N O
JOSHUA BINGAMAN
Keds
Champion
Jersey
Keds has incorporated a similar celebrity-centric approach as it reintroduces remakes of its classic Champion style in tandem with its 100th
anniversary celebration last year. Exclusive design collaborations with
such names as Kate Spade, Malhia Kent and Taylor Swift are part of
product upgrades that include OrthoLite footbeds and new upper materials such as tweed and leather. Its a comfort story, says Gillian Meek,
president. If you look around the footwear industry, its becoming a
price of entry. We live in that space where you can be on-trend and fashionable, but it must be really functional. Meek adds, however, that the
brand is careful not to stray too far from the original version. An original is something you cant invent, and thats something to be cherished,
she says. But in todays world where female consumers are bombarded
about the latest fashion technologies and looks on a daily basis, they
need something fresh.
S H O W C A S E FA L L 1 7
www.cougarboots.com
www.CougarBoots.com
www.bellavitashoes.com
Gabor is Germanys most popular womens shoe brand and one of the
largest producers in Europe. Renowned for its exquisite quality, Gabor
footwear is sought after worldwide for supremely wearable, extraordinarily
comfortable and stylish fashion shoes. See whats new for Fall 17 at BSTA,
FFANY, Tru Show, FN Platform and Northwest Shoe Travelers.
Joules, known for its brilliantly
www.gaborshoes.co.uk
belief that wellness and healthy living should start from the ground
www.joulesusa.com
www.earthbrands.com
S H O W C A S E FA L L 1 7
The Aetrex Addison chukka boot is built using Lynco orthotic technology to
promote better support, balance and alignment. Its memory foam footbed
offers unparalleled cushion and comfort. With Aetrexs signature braid
detail, you get comfort and style all in one. Preview this style and more at
FN Platform and Outdoor Retailer. www.aetrex.com
Hispanitas footwear combines the expertise of Spains top shoe designers from
the Alicante regions tradition of high quality shoe manufacturing, a trendright European aesthetic, exceptional material detail, comfort engineered
into every pair and the heritage of a family owned and operated company.
Hispanitas shoes make a woman feel as wonderful as she looks, which is why
their motto is Joy Is A Choice. Choose Hispanitas! Visit us at Chicago Shoe
Restricted Footwear focuses on edgy elements of
www.hispanitas.com
RestrictedShoes.com
Easy Street is a recognized innovator in all
categories of comfort footwear for over 50
years. New for 2017: studded booties and
shooties, including the Shiloh gray and
Ronda black with ultra-suede. The
stylish booties have built-in comfort
Tamaris, the best-known shoe brand in Europe,
has been making a name for itself in the U.S. since
2015. Tamaris combines premium quality,
excellent comfort and fit, and an exceptional
price/performance ratio in perfect synergy.
Dionysus, the fashionable double-buckle
bootie (#25344) in smooth suede leather and
with ANTIshokk heel technology is just one of the
many exceptionally stylish items in the Tamaris
range. See the complete collection at FFANY,
Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform, Michigan
Shoe Market, Sole Commerce, Chicago Shoe
Market and many other regional shows.
www.tamaris.com
www.easystreetshoes.com
S H O W C A S E FA L L 1 7
JambuKD continues to design with kids in mind for Fall 17. The
collection takes trending features, such as knitted materials and hi-top
silhouettes for boys and ankle boots and ghillie lacing for girls, and adds
durable technology that allows for a unique collection for any
activity. See the line at Outdoor Retailer, BSTA, Transit Kids, Kentucky
Shoe Buying Market, Atlanta Shoe Market, Midwest Childrens Apparel
Group, Michigan Shoe Market, The Childrens Great Event Shoe Show,
Northwest Shoe Travelers Minneapolis and FFANY.
www.vidagroup.com
Shelf Help
Western Chief s light-up LED kids boots are completely waterproof and
available in a variety of prints and colors. Each boot features 11
settings with multiple speeds and a rainbow of color options to
make rainy days brighter. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer, Atlanta Shoe
Market and FN Platform.
www.washingtonshoe.com
In the spotlight for Autumn 2017, Wolky blazes the boot trail
with its lightweight line that makes walking effortless. Focus is on
elegant comfort to help achieve the natural walk stride without
restrictions and with versatile styling. Wolky has been perfecting
the artisan craft of shoemaking with the motto, form follows the
function, for over 30 years. Come visit us at FN Platform, Atlanta
Shoe Market and regional shows. www.wolky.com
TWO
TEN
The
May
Event
Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package
*i\nnU
>\`>J1-,i}U>i}
U P C L O S E C O M F O RT
Booting Up
Birkenstock broadens its
closed-toe collections.
O&A
continued from page 17
for Altard State as well as some for DSW and others. Thats a good way to
help my bottom line, but it doesnt help my brands. It might be a life vest
until things shakeout.
None of it seems particularly stable.
Nope. And who is watching out for the independent, old school retailer
these days? I dont think anybody is, and a lot of them might fall through
the cracks. I guess well see how it pans out. It almost makes me want to
open a store and do things the old-fashioned way: provide great customer
service, put shoes on peoples feet, bring out four pairs, offer them a free cup
of coffee It might just be a great way to launch a shoe store because no
one is really doing that these days. I believe a store done right in the right
areas could be very successful. The right area is key because thats another
challenge many retailers face today: ridiculous rents. Retailers cant make
any money paying $30,000 to $40,000 a month in mall rents. Retailers also
need to change some of their ways, too. There are not a lot of partnerships
anymore. They make demands like having to pay freight, guaranteeing a
58 percent margin and writing a check if anything goes wrong. And if you
dont like it, leave. New brands like mine are kind of at their mercy. Im not
a big enough to refuse those terms, and that hurts my margin, especially
when Im only taking a 40 percent margin to begin with. Its only going to
get tougher on wholesalers, because the
independents that do survive are likely
going to be more demanding.
I MORE THAN
DOUBLED MY
BUSINESS LAST
YEAR. THERES
STILL BUSINESS
TO BE HAD.
scott home,
fashion major
brands
to bring a product to the consumer for cheaper, but not a cheaper product.
That was an old Nordstrom saying and a favorite of my dads. Youve got to
give people reasons to buy from you. It can involve a little design tweak, but
price often seems to be a deciding factor. But Im not talking about selling
cheap shoesshowing someone product and then taking the leather lining
out or changing it to pigskin. Its about not being greedy on the margin. To
be perfectly blunt, there are a lot of whores in our business: guys making
70- to 80-percent markups before they sell to retailers. Our owners will not
let me take more than a 40-percent markup and they only want me to pay
them back 20 percent. Thats unheard of today. But thats why our prices
are so low yet the quality is high.
Do you possess a gut feeling about shoes by this pointsomething that
tells you a style will be big?
Its pretty much based on history and tradition, because the fashion industry keeps regurgitating itself. So you can relate to the trends that will likely
follow again, but thats not always a guarantee. That aside, I believe at this
point I can tell if a last is good or not for a particular shoe, if the heel height
is right, etc. And while I cant draw a stick man, I can tell our designers what
they need to draw and can amend their drawings, if needed.
You could have retired by now, what keeps you coming into work each day?
I can bitch all day about this business, but I truly love it. And Im not the
kind of guy that relaxes much. When I get home at night, its around 10 p.m.
and our Spanish office is opening for business. So Im often emailing until
1 a.m. Then I get up at 5 a.m., go to the gym and start working right after.
I just like to work a lot. Its probably due to all that wood I chopped on the
hill with my dad.
feet love
wolky
E - B E AT
BUYER CHAT
Kevin Leffler
Appalachian Outfitters
Channel Surfing
User-friendly software helps retailers sell
through third-party channels.
LA ST W O RD
Better Days
New Years
Resolutions
DAVID KAHAN
ADAM TUCKER
Sherwayne Mahoney
Designer, Things II Come
To challenge myself and the brand to
test growth possibilities internationally,
to learn more about diversity marketing
to open new opportunities for Things
II Come, and to expand my network to
strengthen key relationships that will
benefit our company.
EDWARD KANNER
Leaders across
the industr y vow to
make 2017 a year of
improved efficiency
and increased
profitability, all while
striking a healthier
work-life balance.
Gary Weiner
President, Saxon Shoes
To work with old and new vendors who have
brand equity at the top of their lists, while getting
rid of vendors that do not focus on long-term
relationships and margins for them and us. Also,
to tighten inventory and turn it faster at higher
margins, with a goal of buying more goods
throughout the season.
Gary Hauss
Owner, J. Stephens
To see vendors and retailers come
together to make brick-and-mortar
stronger and for it to truly work like a
partnership.
BETH BARTHOLOMEW
Senior Director of Sales Development,
Earth Shoes
To keep delivering a tremendous product
of great style and comfort that is perfect
for our independent retailers, whom I
have a huge passion and commitment to
helping succeed.
Mark Jubelirer
President, Reyers Shoe Store
To change our TV advertising strategy.
My brother Steven and I have appeared
as spokespersons in our commercials
for the past several decades, but now
we have hired a ringer to take our place.
Shes a beautiful, young woman who
used to sell shoes at Reyers. Were going
to make her a star!
ANDY GILBERT
CEO, RG Barry
To accelerate growth and frictionless
execution.
JAN BRINKMANN
Karl Moehring
Greg Tunney
Joshua Bingaman
Designer, Helm Boots
To get more face time with our customers
at our new flagship in Austin, to visit
more of our retailers and to have our
staff eat more vegetables.
Bella~Vita