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Overview:
It is obvious to every person engaged in the textile business that the
Textile Industry occupies a unique place in the economy of the country by
virtue of its contribution to the industry output, employment generation and
foreign exchange earning. It commands respect as largest employer, next to
Agriculture, providing employment to about 35.00 million people, directly. It
accounts for 14% of industrial production and 16% of export. The industry has
witnessed a phenomenal growth during the last two decades.
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requirement of the fabric on very cheaper rate in comparison to the mills
sector of the Indian textile industry.
Structural Profile:
The 19.26 lakh looms in the decentralized powerloom sector are spread
over 4.3lakh units with an average holding of a little over 4 looms per unit.
Thus, the sector largely comprises of very tiny units with a majority of loom
holdings in the range of 1 to 8.
Historical Evolution.
GIDC the most customer oriented corporation, came into existence in
1962, under the Gujarat Industrial Development Act, 1962, with a vision of
accelerate the pace of industrialization in the State of Gujarat. The GIDC,
Umargaon was established in 1971 as green field industry area/pollution free
industrial area and at the out set a few textile units with plain looms were
established.
There is no local market in Umargaon for yarn and fabric. Since the
entrepreneurs are from Mumbai and closely associated with the Mumbai
market for their business as well as Umergam Industrial Area is declared as
Pollution Free Zone, the grey fabrics produced in Umargaon is being sent to
Vapi, Mumbai and other destinations for further processing and marketing.
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The production programme /orders for fabric production are based on the
demand of Mumbai market/merchant exporters. The fabric meant for export is
being exported through merchant exporters, except a few manufacturers, who
are exporting fabric directly from Mumbai. It was informed by the Association
that about 35%- 40% of their production is being exported to middle-east
countries and E.U.
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Taluka : Umargam District : Valsad On 2001
Area:
1) Geographical area 36212.32 Sq. Kms.
2) Forest area 43174.93 Hect
Population:
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Present status of the cluster
In this cluster there are about 106 Weaving / Powerloom units out which
more than 100 units are having projectile looms. Rest of the units having
shuttle looms. The size of the unit is generally minimum 8 looms to maximum
of 108 looms. and all the units are having their own warping machines for their
requirement. The main products of projectile looms are Polyester/Viscose/
Blended Fabric for suiting and shirting meant for export and domestic market.
The Air-jet looms are producing industrial fabric for luggage purpose and other
industrial applications whereas Automatic looms are producing suiting as well
as shirting and plain looms are being used for manufacturing of shirting
(cotton as well as blended) and technical textiles such as filter fabrics and
other technical textiles. It is estimated that almost 80 percent of the units are
engaged in job work only.
Less than 15% of the SMEs are producing Polyester/ Viscose/ Blended
Fabric for suiting and shirting on their own brand name, along with some job
work order also. Around 5 % of units are producing technical textiles against
domestic and international markets. Those who are producing technical
textiles are more active and enthusiastic in the cluster. Around 7 nos of ready
made garment units are functioning there, which are producing shirts, ladies
garments, kids wear, and inner wear against both domestic and international
markets.
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and international markets leading to higher consumer satisfaction and export
performance.
Sketch of SMEs
Location
Located on Western Railway and close proximity to Mumbai & Surat
city.
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No. of Powerloom Units :- 106
No. of Powerlooms :
Shuttle-less Looms
a) Projectile (Sulzer) 1600
i.
b) Air- Jet 300
c) Rapier 400
ii Automatic Looms (Ruti-C) 175
iii Plain Looms 300
Grand Total - 2775
Products :
Details of the major qualities being manufactured in this area are as
under:
Sr.
Fabric Warp Weft RxP
No.
84x56
1 Suiting PV65/35,2/30 PV 65/35, 2/30
64x56
Shirting Polyester 68x60
2 PV2/60, 2/76
80D 80x72
2/60,2/76,2/80
100%Cotton 40s, 132x112
3 Shirting 100% Cotton
2/80s,2/60s,2/100s 84x76
Technical Polyester Polyester
4 60x84
Textiles 50-500 D 50-500 D
Industrial Polyester Polyester
5 60 x 52
Fabric 150D 150D
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Source of Raw Material: Various quality of yarn are being procured
Labour Charges :
(Salary on the basis of 26 working days)
i. Semi-skilled : Rs.2700.00 to Rs.3200.00 pm
ii. Skilled : Rs.5000.00 pm
iii Employment : Appr. 2500 to 3000 both direct and
indirect in powerloom SMEs
1250 to 1400 workers both direct and
indirect in Ready made garment units
LABOUR
The cost of labour is affordable. The units approximately work only for
310 days in a year. The different types of workers engaged in the units are
Jobber, Wrapper, Bhmisar, Weaver and Folder. The job of the jobber is only to
attend to the break down of the looms and to put them back in working
condition.
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Process Flow Chart
Raw Material
(Cotton & synthetic yarn
both dyed and Grey)
Warping
(Preparation of Beam in
desired quality)
Looming
(Drawing in & denting)
Weaving
(Production of fabric)
Finishing
(Required finishing of fabrics
mostly done by outsourcing)
Packing
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OTHER ASSOCIATIONS AND SUPPORT INSTITUTIONS
LOCAL ASSOCIATIONS
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v) Guiding the powerloom weavers about modernization and agencies, which
they may approach for financial assistance for it.
Financial Institutions:
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INSTITUTIONS RELATIONSHIP MATRIX (Existing)
UIA - H M M M M
GIDC H - H L L L
DIC M H - L L L
PSC M L L - L M
FI M L L L - M
PL-SME M L L M M -
Note. : -
With the sensitization process and various interventions in the cluster, it is presumed
that there would be High relationship between the all above indicated institutions and key-
actors of the Umargam Powerloom Cluster.
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Cluster Map of Umergam Power loom Cluster (Pre Intervention)
Master Weavers
Export
Yarn Mfrs
(Cotton & Synthetic
Grey & dyed) P/L Units Domestic Market
(80% Job work)
Shirting &suiting
P/L Units
(15% Own Prodn.)
Export
Spares, Service etc. Shirting, Suiting &
Technical Textiles
Domestic Market
Fabric Supplier RMG Units
(From Southern
States 100% Cotton)
DIC PSC
FIs TXC ASSO GIDC
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Cluster Map Of Umergam Powerloom Cluster (Post Intervention)
BDS
(Wind Energy Generation,
Technical Institutions
Technical Consultancy)
Yarn Mfrs
(Cotton & Synthetic Export
Grey & dyed)
P/L Units
Shirting, Suiting &
Technical Textiles
Domestic Market
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Value Chain Analysis
Analysis of 1 Metre Polyester Luggage Fabric of Quality 155Dx155D
(Ends 52 X Picks 52 width 58)
Weaving
Charge = Rs. 3.50/Mtr
Sale price
Add 20% Profit i.e. Rs. 3.64
1Mtr = 21.84
Say 1 Mtr = Rs. 22.00
There are number of items and different types of raw material i.e. Grey yarn or
dyed yarn used by the SME s and doing mainly Job work. The value chain
analysis is given on approximate percentage basis of sale price is as given
below
1. Basic Raw Materials : 70%
2. Job Work Charges : 15%
3. Sales Margin : 15%
As the SMEs are getting the mere conversion charges of the intermediate
finished goods looking marginally as equal to the master weavers. As a
justification in this business strategy there are lots of positive aspects to the
powerloom SMEs to acquire the sales margin also by direct marketing / sales.
However to achieve all those marketing ability they have to fine tune their
mind set, business strategy, marketing strategy. Hence intervention required
on those parts to the powerloom SMEs.
Weaving
Charge = Rs. 13.50/Mtr
Final finishing
Charge = Rs. 9/- per Mtr.
1 Metre - Rs. 58.90
(Job work from near by areas like Vapi)
Sale price
Add 20% Profit i.e. Rs. 11.80
1Mtr = 70.70
Say 1 Mtr = Rs. 71.00
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The value chain analysis is given on approximate percentage basis of
sale price is as given below of production of suiting fabric.
As the SMEs are getting the mere conversion charges of the intermediate
finished goods looking marginally as equal to the master weavers. As a
justification in this business strategy there are lots of positive aspects to the
Powerloom SMEs to acquire the sales margin also by direct marketing / sales.
However to achieve all those marketing ability they have to fine tune their
mind set, business strategy, marketing strategy and brand image. Hence
intervention required on those parts to the Powerloom SMEs.
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ANALYSIS OF BUSINESS OPERATION OF SMES
We can point out this cluster which has ideal features and almost
developed strategy when compare to the other clusters in our nation.
However the powerloom SMEs in the cluster are still staggering since
the last five years. The growth and development achieved from nineties
to the beginning of the century have not been continuing. This is mainly
due to the failure of SMEs to adopt themselves to the changing the mind
set and their business strategy, markets and products to face the global
competitiveness. The future prospect of the powerloom SMEs of the
cluster depends on up-gradation, modernization of their existing set-up
including machinery and diversification of the products. In order to keep
an upper hand in the fast changing market, one has to be innovative in
manufacturing as well as in designing in the product and have the full
knowledge of life cycle of a product.
As stated above that the majority of Powerloom SMEs are getting the
raw materials from the their buyers as such, they literally get only the
conversion cost, which is just sufficient enough to work out its monthly
expenses after paying wages of the workers, which means that the profit
is very marginal. There are very few powerloom SMEs, which are
procuring the yarns from depots, get warped, weave them, get
processed from processors and market the product through agents /
brokers. Sometimes, the Yarn traders/ commission agents are
increasing the prices of yarns by showing deliberate shortage of yarns.
Thus the yarn prices in the market are highly uncertain. As the cost of
raw material is having approximately th share in the total cost of
manufacturing, hence maximum efforts are required to put by the CDA
and Key-actors of the cluster to address it properly.
Most of the powerloom SMEs of the cluster are having their own
looms and sheds. The nos. of looms of SME varies from 8-108 Most of
them are doing this business since last 15 to 25 years. The technology
of the machine installed in most of the powerloom units are in advanced
weaving technology based and even those have looms of modern
technology, it is more than 10 to 15 years old. Many of the SMEs, which
are having their existing infrastructure, desires to upgrade their
technology but are not ready to invest in new / modern technology due
to fear of uncertain future and market.
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Testing and Quality Control have so far not been realized as an
integral function of industrial management, partly due to the lack of
facilities in the sector and partially due to the poor awareness by the
units. The yarn received by the SMEs is not got tested for the quality
parameters like Count/Denier, Oil Contains/ Nos. of filaments in
Synthetic yarn, CSP, U% with Imperfections etc. Moreover, the yarns
are not tested even for the analysis of adulteration. The major reason for
the above situation is due to their main a function over job work basis.
Moreover the cluster has many successful stories of SMEs who are
engaged in technical textiles and some other innovative products. The
opportunity is looking wide for the advent of more forward linkages like
ready made garment units, and embroidery units.
FINANCE: -
Most of the units are financially independent with a strong base.
Loans are easily available from banks and other financial institutions.
The powerloom SME s had put their own money initially for working
capital and make payments to the yarn supplier(s), workmen in the
factory, spare-parts suppliers etc. after receiving payments for their
fabric through agents and with this cycle, adjustments of due payments
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are managed by them. Most of the SMEs have not shown to avail
finance assistance. The local bankers revealed that they are using them
for their current A/C,due to most of the owners are having base at
Mumbai they are utilizing Mumbai based financial institutions. However
intervention required to motivate to avail Govt. assistance.
MARKET: -
Even though majority of powerloom SMEs of the cluster have
knowledge of the market & user of their products but they depend totally
on the buyer who is giving job work for them. Also there is no
synchronization of thoughts and activities between the SMEs that can
help to lead the community as a whole. Instead this, they are cutting
each others market and there by creating problem for each other by
creating a cost based market and ultimately the commissioning agents /
traders are benefited out of this as agents and traders take away major
share of profit margin on purchasing/ selling of the product with value
addition. Hence, a market consortium is required to be made of the
powerloom SMEs. There is wrong conception among them that some
one will empower their business by knowing their business links. Hence,
trust - building measures is required to be made first of all before
initiation of the marketing consortium.
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SWOT ANALYSIS
STRENGTHS
Technology:
Inputs availability:
Human Resource:
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Markets:
- Proximity to the market
- Strong presence in the Domestic as well as international
markets
- Good reputation among the leading domestic retailers
Business Environment:
Finance:
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WEAKNESS
Technology:
- Lack of forward and backward linkages within the cluster.
- Limited production capacity
- Inability to keep the production schedule
Inputs availability:
- Heavy duties on raw material
- Very high cost of power.
- Machineries accessories costing more.
- Absence of latest finishing
Human Resource:
- Labor floating due to more wages offered by the other
industries.
- No skill up gradation training for the workers
- Neither the management nor the labor has got any formal
training
- Lack of professional commitment
- Non availability of supervisory personnel
- Low level of motivation
Markets:
- No stress on branding
- Unhealthy competition
Business Environment:
- Fragmented capacities
- Staggering mind set of Management
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OPPORTUNITIES
Technology:
Inputs availability:
Markets:
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Inputs availability:
Human Resource:
Innovation Capabilities:
Business Environment:
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THREATS
Markets:
Govt. Policy
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VISION STATEMENT
STRATEGIC DIRECTIONS
Mind set
The main strategy required for development of the cluster lies in
changing the mindsets of the core actor i.e SMEs owners. They should
be encouraged to make network amongst themselves in order to
undertake necessary developmental initiatives, including the
establishment of necessary infrastructure facilities and to react
considerably against adverse Govt policy which are the main bottlenecks
in the cluster.
Technical
Technical support for improving the quality, design, productivity
and linkages with the technical institutions and BDS providers will be
provided when the industry is able to absorb such inputs Design center
and resource center will also be established to build the clusters
capacity to create new products.
Energy
Other technical inputs to conserve energy, resource, and motivate
for other alternative energy producers.
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Marketing
Market surveys to identify the potential for the existing products,
scope for diversifying into new products and new market segments will
be undertaken to tap the huge market potential for the cluster. Motivation
towards own brand marketing.
Product
At present, the units in the cluster produce only gray fabric without
any value addition. Hence they should be trained and guided in product
innovation and diversification.
Working Conditions
Necessary facilities should be made available at least within the
factory premises.
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ACTION PLAN FOR COMMENCING YEAR
NAME OF THE CLUSTER : UMARGAM POWERLOOM CLUSTER
LOCATION : VALSAD Dist, GUJARAT, INDIA
2 Capacity Building
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3 Market Development
1 Day Associations, Direct selling, wide
Market All cluster
Buyer seller meet Once in 6 TXC, Support 3.0 2 0.5 0.5 market, Knowledge on
development actors
Months institutions market trend
4 Technology Upgradation
Seminar /
Awareness for
workshop/demonstration on 1 day Office of TXC, All Cluster modernization of
Technology 0.25 0.25 - -
Technology upgradation, 2nd quarter PDEXCIL,BDS actors Technology
upgradation
utilizing schemes
Training Programmes
Development in
By Experts for Development, Awareness for
2 days PSC, BDS, All Cluster Technology/Product in
upgradation & product Technology 1.0 1.0 - -
3rd quarter INDA actors global level.
diversification for managerial upgradation
groups
Note: Action Plan given is road Map and not a Blue Print
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