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Pilgrims undertake a 41-day ritual fasting which include wearing black shirt, mundu,
necklace of beads, practicing utmost cleanliness, not uttering any curses, etc. besides
abstention from sex and non-vegetarian and rajasic food. Carrying irumudi on thier
heads, the pilgrims trekup a narrow and steep four-kilometer forest trail to reach the
temple situated at a height of 1260 meters in Western Ghats. Pilgrims prefer the long and
arduous 61 km Erumeli route through forest and hill track to the shorter13 km
Vandiperiyar route on the Kotayam-Kumili road, and the 8 km Chalakayam route near
Pampa. Officially, tourists, foreigners, and women of the menstruating age are not entry
to the main temple.
Pilgrims address each other as ayyappan or swami and chant Swamiye Saranamayyappa.
He is supposed to see in all living and non-living the manifestation of the Supreme
Being: they call donkeys (kazhutha) that carries the goods up the mountains as
kazhuthaswamy, human excreta as bhuswami. By doing so, theytry to recognize that all
manifest realities are nothing but the manifestations of the same transcendental reality.
Recognising the the divine in others and realizing the ultimate advaitic knowledge tatvam
asithat the paramatma (universal soul), not different from the jeevatma (ones life soul)
is the essence of Hindu pilgrimages.
Sabarimala in history
Ayyappan's lived in the 12th century AD. According to the website of the Pandalam royal
family, Pandalam kingdom was established in 903 AD (79 ME) by the descendents of the
Pandya kings of Madurai. The CheraChola war (985-1085) weakened Keralas Chera
dynasty and strengthened Pandyan incursion into Punjar and Pandalam. By 1194 (370
ME) they ruled over 1000 sq. miles Airur Swarupam[1], which included Sabarimala, with
the help of the friendly[2] Ay kings of Venad.
After the death of Maravaramban Kulasekara Pandyan of Madurai in 1308, his sons Viran
and Sundaran fought for the throne and Viran sought the assistance of Khilji sultanate of
Delhi. In 1311, Malik Kafur, the general of Alauddin Khilji (r.12961316) sacked and
occupied Madurai until 1371 when it was annexed by Vijayanagar which appointed its
nayaks (governors) to rule Madurai. Having lost to Malik Kafur, fleeing Pandyans joined
the Pandyan settlements at Punjar and Pandalam. King Rajasekhara (c 1200 AD) of
Pandalam, Manikantans adopted father, was of Pandyan descend.
There is no clear evidence about the befinning of Sabarimala pilgrimage. Three centuries
after the founding of the temple, a later pandalam king, along with the descendants of the
Vavar family, rediscovered the path, re-established the pilgrimage and renovated the
temple . Erumely, where they rested, is the sopt of Erumely Pettathullal. Even now, new
pilgrims thrust arrows at Saramkuthy where they laid down arms.
Pandalam was added to Travancore in 1821. Following Col. John Munroes directive,
Travancore Dewaswam Board began to administer Sabarimala temple along with other
temples. Memoirs of Travancore by William Henry Horsley (1839) speaks of
Chowrymully: Among the other pagodas of celebrity that of Ayapen at Chowrymully
attracts particular attention, vast numbers (and many even from the eastern coast)
flocking to it at the period of festival in January, to present their vows and offerings,
notwithstanding that it is situated in the wildest country possible.
The temple was remodeled in 1905 and an idol was installed in 1910. Some religious
miscreants burned down the temple in sometime in 1950 and the incident was known
only after a month. The fire destroyed the temple and the Stone Idol of Ayyappan. The
Govt. of Kerala and the Devaswam board renovated the temple in 1951 and a new
Panchaloha idol was installed in May by thantri Kantaru Sankararu of Thazhaom,
Chengannur. After the conflagration in 1971, the temple underwent a major revamp.
The historical Ayyappan was a Vellala[4] youth called Ayyan Ayyappan. He was the army
chief of Pandalam and was the nephew of the Vellal Chieftain of Erumeli, a Perisseri
Pillai[5]. He defeated of Udayanan's effort to demolish the Sastha temple at Sabarimala
and the Pandalam king renovated the Sastha temple with the help of Ayyan, Vavar (a
Muslim youth from Kanjirappally), and Kadutha (a Nair youth from Muzhukeer,
Chenganoor). Following Ayyapan's death in a clash, Perissery Pillai constructed a Sastha
temple at Erumeli, opposite Vavar mosque. Locals venerated Ayyappan as the incarnation
of Lord Sastha and started worshipping him, and in the course of time, Ayyappan and
Sastha became synonymous.
Muslim connection
Vavar (Bawa ?), a Muslim defeated by Ayyappan, figures prominently. His idol, placed at
the foot of the 18 steps leading to the main deity, is believed to be as old as the deity of
Ayyappan. A Muslim priest performs the rituals related to this carved stone slab near a
green silk cloth hung on the wall and an old sword. The offerings to Vavar are green
pepper, rose water and sandalwood paste along with coconut and clarified butter. Some
pilgrims even bring goats.
There are many versions about who Vavar was. According to some, he escaped from
Madurai from the attack of Thirumala Naickar. He is also believed to be an Arab Muslim
who came to spread Islam. Still others suggest that he was a pirate subdued by Ayyappan
and became a close associate in his battles. Ayyappa instructed building a mosque for
Vavar at Erumeli and a shrine at Sabarimala. Some families practicing the Unani
medicine at Vaipur near Thiruvalla claim to be descendants of Vavar.
Conclusion
Pandalam dynasty, descendents of Pandyan dynasty of Madurai, is hardly older than 1200
AD when a branch of the Pandyan royal family settled there. Historically, it is possible
that Manikantan lived after the invasion of Madurai by Alauddin Khilji of Delhi in (1311
AD) and immediately after the annexation of Madurai (1371 AD) from its Muslim rulers
by Vijayanagara kingdom which appointed Nayaks governors at Madurai. Vavar must be
a Muslim leader who escaped to the Western Ghats from Madurai when Vijayanagar
forces of attacked it.
The Christian settlement of Nilakkal which began with Sabar Eso building a church there
sometime around 850 AD must have come to an end with the frequent Pandyan raids
symbolized by Vakrapiuli and Perumpatta (1253-99). These raids helped the rise of
Pandyan power in Pandalam and Punjar and also played a part in the decline of the
defenseless Christian settlement at Nilakkal, which ended with flood of 1341.
The forsaken Buddhist temple at Sabarimala must have been discovered by the Pandyan
rulers when they occupied Nilakkal. Together with the Saivites in Kerala, the Vaishnavite
invaders fabricated the myth of Hariharaputran to counter Buddhism and used the legend
of Manikantan, the prince of Pandalam for the purpose. Manikantan was called Ayyappan
(Ay appan) to garner the support of the Ay kings of Vend. The ancient Shaivite deities of
Sabarimala came to be known after Ayyappan and his associatesVavar and Kadutha
and even the Ezhava girl who loved himas they were deified by local Brahmanical
Hinduism.
The myth lives on. What are forgotten in the story are the Shaivite deities of Sabarimala.
Who bothers about truth in Kerala when it makes all involved richer, and bestow free
celebration for the rest.
Notes
[1] A title of the Pandalam raja is Airur Sree Veerasreedhara Kovil Adhikarikal. Pandalam
royal family belongs to the Bhargava clan while other Kshatriya families in Kerala
belong to Viswamithra clan.
[2] Even when the Vendad king Marthanda Varma established the kingdom of Travancore
in 1749AD (925ME), he did not annex Pandalam and allowed it to rule independently,
and the Pandalam kings helped Marthanda Varma to subject Kayamkulam. Pandalam was
merged with Travancore in 1820 (995ME).
[3] The sanctum sanctorum of the Meenakshi Temple was closed and the main deity was
shifted to the Ardhamandapam.
[4] The old Ezhavarsevampattu mentions Ayyan as vellalar kula jhathan (born of Vellala
caste) ayyan ayyappan. Ayyan and Ayyappan is a common name among vellalas of
nearby districts of Kerala and they have built many Ayyappan temples.
An old mud house which keeps an old sword with which Ayyappan killed eruma is
claimed to be the house of Perissery Pillai is in the Puthenveedu Vellala house compound
near Sree Ayyappa movie theatre at Erumeli. The name Erumeli came from Erumakolly
[eruma (mahisham, she-buffalo) + kolly (killer). Erumeli pettaithullal is a celebration of
the killing of the mahishi.
[5] Some claim that Ayyappan was the son of a Brahmin. Nalankal Krishna Pillai thinks
that Brahmins never had the name Ayyappan or Ayyan (Mahashekthrangalkkumunpil).
[6] Unlike in the rest of India, the Buddhists and Shivites co-existed peacefully in Kerala,
as in Prambanan in Java and Angkor Wat in Cambodia where Eswara and Buddha are
interchangeable.
'...Lord Ayyappan of Sabarimala... could have been the Potala Lokesvara of Buddhist
literature. The makara jyoti of Sabarimala recalls Potala's "brilliance"... The long,
arduous and hazardous trek through areas known to be inhabited by elephants and other
wildlife to Sabarimala is spoken of in the pilgrimage to Potala Lokesvara. The Buddhist
character of Ayyappan is explicit in his merger with Dharma-sasta. Sasta is a synonym of
Lord Buddha.'
[8] Huen Tsang says that at Potala Avalokitesvara takes the form of Isvara (Shiva) and
that of a Pasupata yogin. It was Shiva who was metamorphosed into Avalokitesvara.
When Buddhism became dominant, the Saivite image at Potalaka was deemed to be
Avalokitesvara. Potalaka Lokesvara and the Thousand-armed Avalokitesvara have echoes
of Shiva and Vishnu, of Hari and Hara.
He refers to Avalokitesvaras Potala as: ''In the south of the country near the sea was the
Mo-lo-ya (Malaya) mountain, with its lofty cliffs and ridges and deep valleys and gullies,
on which were sandal, camphor and other trees. To the east of this was Pu-ta-lo-ka
(Potalaka) mountain with steep narrow paths over its cliffs and gorges in irregular
confusion...' (Summarized by Waters, 1905).
[9] The legend behind Malikappurathamma is that Leela, daughter of Galavamuni, under
curse of her husband Dathan, was reborn as Mahishi, an "asura' female with a buffalo's
face. Upon having killed by Lord Ayyappa, the curse was revoked and the beautiful
woman rose out of the corpse. She thanked the Lord and prayed to be with him as His
wife. However, he told her that he is a 'brahmachari' and so her desire would not be
fulfilled. However, He allowed her to remain in Sabarimala, a little distant from his
abode, as his sister - Malikappurathamma.
[10] In 880 during the reign of the Chera king, Sthanu Ravi (Mallan Perumal
Vijayaragan), Venadu king Ayyanadikal Thiruvadigal gave Mar Sabor Easo and the
Christians in Tharissapally Church in Kollam two separate chepeds (Copper Plaques),
now in the custody of the Orthodox and Marthomma Churches at Kottayam and
Thiruvella respectively.
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