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Vernazza The region's gem, crowned with a ruined castle above and a lively waterfront
cradling a natural harbor below.
Monterosso Resorty, flat, and spread out, with a charming old town, a modern new town, and
the region's best beaches, swimming, and nightlife.
Riomaggiore The biggest and most workaday of the five villages.
Manarola Waterfront village dotted with a picturesque mix of shops, houses, and vineyards.
Corniglia Quiet hilltop village known for its cooler temperatures (it's the only one of the five
villages not on the coast), few tourists, and tradition of fine wines.
The five Cinque Terre village from south to north:
Riomaggiore has one main street, a harbour, a rocky beach, a castle, a church, a pharmacy, and a dozen
restaurants. It also has good train connections and is the closest to the main city of La Spezia. I met my
husband here a decade ago, and some of my best friends live here, so Im completely biased when I say
this: its my favorite village.
Heading north from Riomaggiore is the second village called Manarola. Its also a one street town, with
a small harbour where you can swim. It has an incredible spit of land where the most famous Cinque
Terre photos are taken from. Manarola is the smallest village; the baby of the family.
The middle child of the family is Corniglia. Shes a rebel. Shes built far above the ocean on the cliffs. To
arrive in Corniglia you gotta hoof it up the 365 steps (one for each day of the year) to reach the centre of
town. If you have excessive luggage dont stay here. But saying that, its where to go to get away from it
all.
The beauty queen of the Cinque Terre is named Vernazza. This village is the most popular girl at school;
everyone wants to hang out with her and be her friend. Shes incredibly photogenic. Vernazza is a one
street town with a church built on the water. She has a castle, the remains of the old wall that protected
against pirates, a gorgeous waterfront piazza and a harbour with a spit of sand I would even call a beach.
The northernmost village is called Monterosso al Mare. Shes the biggest kid in the family, and she has
many streets and even (gasp) cars driving in the village. Her landscape isnt as vertical as her other
sisters, you could even spend the entire day not climbing hills and stairs. Monterosso is made up of an
old town, a new town, lots of sandy beaches, some larger hotels and a long seaside promenade suitable
for strollers too. If you want to avoid stairs and have a more resort feel to your vacation then you
should stay here.
Day 1.
Arrival Day. Check-in to your hotel. Maybe youve had a big travel day so go stare at the ocean and drink
a glass of local wine at:
A Pie de Ma (Via dellAmore, Riomaggiore, take the stairs at the train station, and youll find it
after a 3 minute walk.)
This is my favorite drink spot in the whole world and a visit here is mandatory to your Cinque Terre
experience. My recommended tipple is either local white wine, prosecco or the specialty from this area
called Sciacchetra a fortified wine made from dry grapes of the hillsides youre surrounded by.
After that I would cruise down to the marina. Gather at the agave plant and watch the sunset over the
harbour. Then head to dinner at:
Youll love the beautiful stone interior and the Ligurian comfort food it serves.
Day 2:
Rise and shine because its a beautiful day and you have nothing to do except enjoy it. Head down to the
village and catch the morning action. Drink a coffee on the main (and only!) street. Then head to the
beach in Riomaggiore for a morning swim.
To find the beach of Riomaggiore, go down to the marina (take the steps youll find on the left at
the bottom of Via Colombo). When you reach the marina take the stairs to the left and it will
pass the ferry dock. Just past there, youll find a beach. The beach is rocky, not sandy. At first,
the rocks look uncomfortable, but you can arrange them until you create a nice little nest. I love
that beach cause its mellow. If you need pure relaxation, just spend the day there. But but if
you want to be active, hike up to the Santuario di Montenero. Its about 3 hours round trip.
Directions are in my Hiking Cinque Terre Trails post.
Another swimming spot is in the next village over. Take the train to Manarola and head down to
the harbour. You can cliff jump, or just join the Italians who set up camp on the boat launch. If
you keep walking north along the walking path jutting out to the point, youll be rewarded with
village views fit for a postcard. Theres also a playground if youre traveling with children. And a
killer cocktail spot, called Nessun Dorma. (If youre traveling with children youll definitely need
a cocktail right about now.)
1: Adventure to the village of Groppo. Its completely out of the way, so give yourself an hour to arrive
(you need to take the train from Riomaggiore to Manarola). The food is divine and made with love with
local ingredients. I suggest arranging a wine pairing with your meal. This restaurant is very particular; its
more like dining in someones home, so reservations are a must. Contact the owner, Christiane, to make
a reservation.
Restaurant: Cappun Magru in Casa di Marin, in the village of Groppo. You can catch a bus just
outside the pharmacy in Manarola to get to the village of Groppo, a tiny village above Manarola.
Phone: 0187920563
After dinner, if youre feeling fit, walk back down to Manarola (or if want to skip the 30 minute walk
simply catch the bus back down the hill. Check times though). You can visit the adorable village of
Manarola, it has one main street so everything is easy to see.
2: Without the trek up to Groppo, you can stay in Manarola and eat at Da Billy. Bring your walking legs
cause its up the hill, but rewards are a great view. They serve seafood.
Restaurant: Da Billy, Via Aldo Rollandi 122, Manarola Phone: +39 0187 920628
Trattoria il Porticciolo, Via Renato Birolli 92, Manaraola. Phone: +39 0187 920083
After dinner head down to the locals hangout with live music most nights:
Cantina dello Zio Bramante, Via Renato Birolli 110, Manarola. Phone: +39 0187 920442
Train home. The walking path called Via dellAmore is still closed as of now (current as of March, 2015).
Day 3.
If you havent heard, the Cinque Terre is famous for its walking paths. Hiking the Cinque Terre trails is a
wonderful thing to do, and there are trails weaving all over the region. Some are paid trails (its 7.50 for
a day-pass), and some are not.
My favourite trails are: Riomaggiore to Portovenere (free but long) and Monterosso to Levanto (free).
My other fave ones are Monterosso to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia, but youll need a trail pass
for these. They are both suited to beginners and lazy hikers, although promise me youll not wear flip
flops on the trail. As the signs also say, dont wear high heels. Glad they pointed that out.
For just a taste of the trails, I would suggest the section from Monterosso to Vernazza.
You can train from Riomaggiore to Monterosso, visit the village of Monterosso, and then hike the trail to
the next village of Vernazza. In Monterosso you can swim at the beach and visit the old and new town.
Bring a backpack and water for your hike. Live like a local and grab a piece of focaccia for lunch, or my
favorite, focaccia di recco. Try the farinata too (its gluten free).
Spend your hike afterglow in the village of Vernazza. Its another one street town, and its pretty
interesting as its been under extensive repairs after a landslide in 2011. Its a lovely place to spend the
afternoon.
For dinner, eat at my favourite seaside restaurant in all of the villages. Youll find it down at the marina.
They could have a spot on the lower balcony, if not take the high one. If the sea is rough youll be cooled
off with sea spray.
Ristorante Belforte, Via G. Guidoni, Vernazza. (These are very Italian directions: go to where the
boats are tied up, and youll spot the stairs on the left.) Phone:+39 0187 812222
Day 4.
If youre traveling today, a great idea is to buy your train ticket the day earlier. That way, when you show
up to the train, it wont matter if theres a long line up, you wont miss your train! Be sure to validate
your tickets by inserting it into the machines on the platform on your day of travel, or you could risk a
fine.
If your travels take you north, to Milan, Turin , Genoa or into France then you should get off the train
at Bonassola. It has an amazing beach and an adorable town. I love spending an entire afternoon here;
you can rent a beach umbrella and beach chair and love summer like the rest of the Italians. It is the
most underrated town of the area and worth a visit.
If you have more time to spend in the Cinque Terre my other suggestions are:
The most challenging hike is easily the one from Vernazza to Monterosso,
mainly because its not just up or down its both. And its steep. Its also the one with the highest percentage of so-
narrow-youre-not-sure-theyre-wide-enough-for-one-person trail sections (many of which have cliffside dropoffs on
one side), so be prepared for lots of stopping and starting if the trail is particularly crowded. The good news is that
those gorgeous olive orchards and vineyards you started seeing in the last trail segment are even more plentiful in
this one, and youll even dip inland now and then and be bathed in cool forest-y shade. (This is especially refreshing if
youre hiking during the heat of midday in the summer.)
Again, if youre not doing too much in the way of stopping and starting, the hike between Vernazza and Monterosso
should take roughly 1.5-2 hours.