Using body filler, by Reed Overson

Reed Overson lives in Bismarck, North Dakota, and has been a bodyman, painter,
sales rep, and technical rep for thirty years.

Reed used to work as a technical sales rep for the company that makes Rage filler, and
knows the chemists that developed the resin for it.

The following article contains some of Reed's thoughts on using body filler.

The resin used in Rage and other body fillers is fiberglass (polyester) resin. Today's
resin technology makes the adhesion of these new resins as good as or better than
most epoxy adhesives. They are designed to really stick. Also, they are somewhat
flexible when used properly.

Most, or probably all, filler manufacturers design and recommend them to be used over
clean and prepped (sanded with coarse 36-grit), rust-free (sandblasted), dry (free from
moisture), bare metal. They will stick to epoxy primers with mechanical adhesion. Body
fillers do not chemically bond with epoxies. If you put filler over epoxy primer, it has
to be fully cured, with no solvents such as thinner or reducer left in the primer, and still
should be sanded with a coarse grit and cleaned. In other words, using epoxy primer
under filler is a wasted step that may or may not cause adhesion problems later on.

One of the most critical points is for everything to be clean and moisture-free.

Body filler resin is a thermal-set plastic. It cures with heat. The hardener MEK peroxide
is a catalyst that produces heat in the resin. It needs to be at 64 degrees Fahrenheit
minimum to cure, and the best is between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. (If you live in
a warm climate, read on, but it may not apply to you.)

If the metal is cold, the filler will cure from the outside in, and could trap some moisture
and solvent from the resin underneath, causing adhesion or bubbling problems later.
(Styrene is the solvent in resin and produces the smell that we associate with Bondo
and fillers). Also, moisture (humidity in the air) will condense on the surface of the cold
metal. This is the same effect you get when the mirror in the bathroom fogs up when
you shower. The mirror, and the metal of the car, are about 10 to 15 degrees cooler than
the air temperature, and the humidity condenses on them. If you warm the mirror or the
car's metal to about the air temperature, the moisture won't condense on the surface.
Using a heat source to warm up the panel (but not too hot) will eliminate the moisture
being trapped under the filler (which can show up as rust under the filler) and help keep
the cure temperature even through the filler. This is the way the chemists designed the
product to work. You can use extra catalyst to speed the cure, but too much will cause
too much heat in the reaction and crystallize the resin which causes it to be brittle and
break down, causing more problems later. If you head to the auto body supply store for
more hardener you may be using too much and looking at problems down the road.
Pre-warming the metal and keeping the shop warm will let it cure more evenly with the
correct amount of hardener. Heat lamps or lights should be far enough away so the
panel feels warm when you put your bare hand on it (not hot).

The correct amount of hardener is 1 1/2 to 3%. Here's an easy way to figure it:

On the pallet or board that you mix your Bondo or filler on, put the amount you are going
to mix up in the form of a circle. With your spreader or mixer divide the circle in half,
50%. Divide the half in half, 25%, half again, 12.5%, half again, 6.25% half again,
3.125% (this is the maximum) half again, 1.5% (this is the minimum).

If you have a cold shop, put a small batch on a warmed test panel to check the cure
time, spread to about 1/4-inch thick. It should be fully cured in about 30 minutes to an
hour, depending on the temperature and hardener amount. (Yes, I know you can add a
pile of hardener and get it to kick in a few minutes.) A good cure time lets the gasses
come out, and gives ample time to work out the air pockets with the spreader,
eliminating pinholes. After a few times, you'll be able to gauge the amount of hardener
for the size of the filler batch that you are mixing.

There is some room here for a little extra hardener, but too much extra. Remember, this
needs to work with the temperature of the air and metal. Filler also contains talc (the
mineral in talcum powder), which will absorb moisture. If you try to fill holes in a body
panel, moisture can be absorbed from the back side, causing the area to swell and
bubble. Also, bare filler left in the weather (especially rain) for any length of time can
absorb moisture and cause problems later.

It will cost a lot less to follow these steps to correctly prepare the metal and work
within the correct temperature range and hardener amounts than to even bother
with epoxy primer as an underlayer.

Between coats of filler, do not wipe with solvent (thinner), because solvent will be
absorbed into the filler.

Rough-up the areas not sanded and blow the dust off well, and then apply a new layer.
The thickness of the layers should not be more than 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. If you put
filler on too thick, the heat in the reaction will be concentrated and higher in the thick
area and could lead to crystallizing the resin in that spot, making it brittle and subject to
cracking later on. Also, too thick can mean you won't be able to get all of the air pockets
smoothed out.

Use a primer surfacer system that is recommended for the paint you will use. Self-
etching primers usually contain an acid and should not be used under filler, because the
acid will slow down the cure of the filler resin. I like these primers for bare metal on my
projects. I use them, but grind them off where I do filler work. Also, the acid in the self-
etching primer activator will affect the epoxy resin hardeners in epoxy primers where
they may not cure chemically, but will still air-dry. It is possible to put epoxy primer over
self-etching primer, but only if the acid is gone, and the etch primer is fully cured. On old
cars, my preference is etch primer on bare, sandblasted metal: Bondo or filler on bare
metal, a catalyzed spot or glazing putty (Bondo skim coat), a good two-part urethane
primer filler, and a good topcoat finish.

Today's Bondo/body filler technology will adhere to properly-cured paint and primers if
they are absolutely clean and dry. They stick by mechanical adhesion. They grip to
scratches, so the rougher the surface, the better the grip. Solvents (thinners and
reducers) in paints and primers can work under the edges of the Bondo/body filler area,
and it's easier for this to happen if you have paint or primer under the Bondo/body filler.
Even when priming over filler on bare metal, don't put so much on that you have the
solvent affect or lift the edge of the filler. Use nice even coats and let the solvents flash
(evaporate) between coats of primer.

If you are beginning, do some test batches first. If what you put on the car doesn't look
like it's right, grind it off and start over. Body filler is the least-expensive part of
bodywork. It doesn't make sense to keep going over a bad mix.

It takes time to learn technique. I've worked with guys that made Michaelangelo look like
a rookie when it comes to sculpting. (It usually takes me longer to get the shaping the
way I want it, but I do okay.)

Catalyzed glazing putty is basically a finely-textured Bondo. It has less porous filler
material added to the mix, so it doesn't absorb solvents as much. Rougher scratches
than from using 320-grit would be better, but that will work. The key to using this or any
catalyzed primer filler or spot putty with a hardener is to remember that if you put it over
a finish (either paint or primer) that does not have a hardener, solvent or thinner will
soak into the uncatalyzed product, and not the catalyzed product. The uncatalyzed
product will swell a little from the solvent it absorbed and later (usually after you have
painted the car). It will evaporate and shrink back down leaving sand scratches or a ring
around the area. It's best to use a system with products that are two-part (catalyzed)
with hardener from the metal work to the finish. There so many good fillers, primers,
glazes, and paints that are two-part systems today.

Back in the day of lacquer paint finishes on custom cars, painters would color-sand the
paint after it dried and repaint to get all the sand scratch shrinkage out. This process
was repeated until the paint didn't show the sanding marks. They used to say, "This car
has 20 coats of hand-rubbed lacquer." "Hand-rubbed" was the term in some areas for
color-sanding by hand. The thinner in the paint was stronger, and took longer to
evaporate than the thinner used in the primer. When you painted lacquer paint, the
thinner would soak into the primer and cause it to shrink back into the scratches in the
body work. That is why the process was repeated until scratches didn't show in the final
coat.

Concerning thickness, 1/8 of an inch is usually no problem for filling. I've seen some
really thick sculpting in my day. Building up an area in layers of 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch will
work. The thicker the filler, the greater the chance of having problems down the road. I
have seen cars with filler over two inches thick that lasted for years, and some custom
cars have had areas that were done even thicker.
If you have any cracks in the metal under the filler, they will have to be welded first. Any
places under the filler that can move will show up later. Body filler will have the ability to
flex some, but a crack in the panel will eventually crack the filler. Grinding with 80-grit
will work, and coarser (36-grit) is okay. Remove all of the old filler and start over using
the process I described. If you have trouble getting areas ground out, use a wire brush
in a drill or even a broken 1/8-inch twist drill to get into tight areas to grind down to the
bare metal.

Preventing rust (or moisture) from forming under the Bondo/body filler repair is a big
concern. In humid and cool conditions I don't like to start exposing (grinding) the panel
bare until I'm ready to do the filler work and can complete the area to the priming stage.
When working on a rusty, old car, to get it down to bare metal, I plastic media blast if
possible (or carefully sandblast at low pressure), and then grind just prior to doing the
body filler work.

Keeping the panel warm will keep moisture from forming on the surface and help keep
the curing process of the filler even. Temperature is the most critical factor when
working in cool humid conditions. There are two basic primers to protect from rust. Rust-
inhibiting primers seal the area from moisture but do not chemically react with the rust.
Etch primers contain an acid (usually phosphoric acid) and chemically etch the metal
(the acid converts the iron oxide, meaning rust, to iron phosphate) and the filler part of
the etch primer seals out the moisture. Phosphoric acid slows down the catalyst
(hardener) in the Bondo/body filler and can make it not cure properly. Today's body
filler/Bondo technology basically does the same job on bare metal that a rust inhibiting
primer would do. It bonds tight against the surface of the metal (with mechanical
adhesion) to seal out air and moisture. Actually the technology in the Bondo/body filler
products we use in the US came from Europe so you have had them for about eight to
ten years longer than we have. There are no chemical reactions with the body filler
(polyester resin) and rust. You could still prime over a small layer of rust, put
Bondo/body filler over it and end up with problems later. I use etching primer on bare,
sandblasted metal, but I grind it off in the area I do my filler work. I try to keep the area
warm, clean, and dry.

You shouldn't use cardboard for mixing filler because you don't know where that
cardboard has been or what it has absorbed. I use a product called Clean Sheets,
which is a pallet with a tablet of non-porous paper sheets that I can tear off and throw
away when I'm done. Most cardboard is porous and will absorb some of the solvent
in the resin (styrene), but most of all, the styrene will let loose any chemical that
was already in the cardboard, whether it was a box that held oil, grease, or worse,
silicone, as is found in Armor All. I once saw someone mix filler on part of an Armor All
box. When he went to sand it with an air board sander, it peeled right off. And that's not
to mention that he and everyone else in the shop had fisheye problems for about three
days. Lexan, Plexiglas, or an old car door glass works far better than cardboard.

It's not the best situation to leave the body and filler areas bare for so long, but with
projects it is sometimes the only way. There are two basic self-etching primers. Vinyl-
wash primer is a thin, vinyl resin-based primer with a phosphoric acid activator/reducer.
It is translucent and mostly used for bare metal only (not over filler/Bondo) and is
usually primed and painted very soon after it is applied (wet on wet). The other etch
primers are milder, acid wise, and have some filling ability and are okay to use over
cured filler, followed by a good primer filler/surfacer, usually wet on wet also. Check with
the manufacturer on times and which systems (primers) to use. If your project has been
bare in humid conditions, there is a good possibility of a rust film forming on the
exposed metal. A scuffing and cleaning followed by the milder etch primer would be my
choice. Unless you have a real wet climate, the area under the filler should be okay. I
would suggest letting the body be warm and dry for a few days before priming to help let
any moisture that may have absorbed into the bare filler areas evaporate. Most primers
have some alcohol in the solvents which will help draw some moisture out.

Etching primers chemically grip to the metal by converting the oxidation (rust). They
also do this on aluminum, and help in getting the best adhesion on stainless steel. Metal
prep / metal conditioner uses the same acids to neutralize the rust. You can have an
adhesion problem if you use metal prep followed real soon with an etching primer. The
etch primer won't have enough rust (it doesn't take much) to bond with and will not stick.
I have seen this happen. I prefer to sandblast the metal then use etching primer (I'm
talking old cars here). It's a lot less messy than using metal prep and you get a good
chemical and mechanical bond. Follow this with a good quality two part primer filler and
you have a great foundation for your topcoat finish, whether it's going to be suede or
shiny.

You can put too little hardener in the mix and it won't have enough to full cure the whole
mix. Temperature is the key. If it's 90 degrees Fahrenheit out or hotter you will probably
have to do the work in the shade and work on smaller areas in order to keep up with the
fast cure. You can only slow it down so much or speed it up so much, it has a limit on
each end. If you ruin a batch, throw it away. It's cheap stuff compared to ruining a paint
job down the road. One thing I noticed the one time I was in Florida is that the body
shops had huge air conditioners. We only have huge heaters up here in North Dakota.
I'm sure it's common where you guys live to have an air-conditioned even in your home
workshop. The temperature is directly proportional to the amount of hardener and it just
takes time to get it dialed-in. Also always mix the batch as thoroughly as possible. Not
so many years ago our neighbors in Canada used clear liquid hardener for their
Bondo/body filler. That is really a pain to use when you can't see the color change like
with the creme hardener we use in the States.

I'm going to mention types of primers and not so much specific brands because
everyone will have different brand names available in their area. I'm a firm believer in
the two-part primers. There so many kinds of them, and I'll try explain the basics of most
of them. Urethane-based two-parts are probably the most universal. They are based on
resin that uses an isocianate hardener, so there are some health concern here. Most
epoxy primers are two-part, based on epoxy resins. Polyester primers are based on
polyester resin (fiberglass/Bondo resin) and use the same chemical as a catalyst as
fiberglass and body filler. These primers all bond with mechanical adhesion. They grip to
scratches in the surface of the panel (metal, fiberglass, plastic, Bondo, etc.) Self-etching
primers use an acid-based activator/reducer to convert with the metal and form a
chemical bond as well as mechanical adhesion. For resistance to moisture both the type
of resin and the amount of solids (filler material) in the type of primer are factors. A good
two-part resin that provides good mechanical bond along with dense filler material that
does not absorb moisture will be better as a rust inhibitor. There are some really good
systems available in everyone's price range. You should do some research and ask
questions about the system you are interested in and make sure to get thorough
product information reference sheets to insure you use it correctly. In the product
information for any particular primer, it will tell you what kind of surfaces it can be
applied to, how the surface should be prepared (sanding/cleaning), how much it fills per
coat (mill thickness), what chemical or solvent resistance it has, and what topcoats
should be used. Read these and ask questions if you don't understand. Most companies
have a web site or an 800 number you can reference.

You will find a huge variety of primers for filling, sanding, sealing and protecting. Another
thing I really like is POR-15. Sealing the backside of your panels and neutralizing
corrosion on the inside will make the repairs last so much longer. Moisture can seep
through tiny pinholes and ruin your body filler repair or primer and paint. POR-15
together with a paint or under coat can probably seal most tiny pinholes in the panel. I
don't know if it is possible to get them all but this is a good way to start. In areas where
panels have been welded I like to seal the inside of the weld with POR-15 and maybe a
layer of seam sealer and paint. One thing on DP primers. If used as a rust inhibitor read
the tech sheet to see the mills (thickness) per coat. These primers are usually used for
tie-coat sealers and should be top-coated with another product. For use as a storage
primer you may need several (more than two) coats to get good moisture protection for
an extended time. As I remember, the directions on both the Loctite and POR-15 say it
is okay to put body filler/Bondo over it after it has cured. You should be doing everything
according to the specifications.

Back to primer and rust. Earlier I mentioned pre-warming (not hot) the panel in cool
humid conditions (which you and I both share because of climate) to evaporate the
moisture that condenses on the metal. The metal will be 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit
cooler than the air and moisture will condense on it. If you put filler on a cold panel in
humid conditions you trap a thin film of moisture under the filler. That is one of the
causes for rust under the filler. This is the easiest to avoid by simply warming the panel
to slightly above the air temperature (which should be above 70 degrees Fahrenheit.)
Grinding or sanding the panel just prior to applying the filler will also help. When
spreading the first batch of filler to the bare metal, extra pressure should be used to
force the material into the metal as thoroughly as possible. This helps the mechanical
adhesion of the filler to the metal. An even cure temperature until full cure is reached will
also help with expelling solvents and humidity from the filler as it cures. You are on the
right track about primers. The material most used for rust inhibiting and protection
against moisture is zinc-chromate. This material has a large molecule that is dense and
when used as a filler material in primers helps stop moisture from penetrating. There is
a health concern with chromate-based products and we are starting to see chromate-
free products. Lead-based paints give the best protection but due to health concerns
they are being replaced with other less dense materials. Most old and probably new
ocean vessels are painted with lead based primers and paint to ward of the corrosive
effects of salt water. When you are buying primers compare the weight of the can. High
solids primers may weigh up to 5 pounds more per gallon. Always read the information
sheet to see if what you are buying is right for the job you have planned. I like self-
etching primers on my sandblasted (old car parts) and yes, sanding the sandblasted
steel to smooth out the high spots is a good idea. The etch primer's activator (acid)
chemically bonds with the rust to form iron phosphate. If I'm not doing body filler work
soon I leave this primer on for protection. For really long-term storage I use a dense
urethane two-part primer on top (wet on wet) per manufacturer's directions. When this is
fully cured, I prefer to grind the areas that I am going to fill with body filler right down to
the bare metal. I could actually put filler over the fully-cured primer system (after
sanding and making sure that it's clean), but I usually find some more metal finishing I
can do, and it's easier to grind that area off to do the work. If I have areas that are bare
for a time in between work sessions and surface rust seems likely, I use a small
sandblasting gun to re-clean the areas. I hope this information helps, but everyone
reading this has to do some research themselves on the specific products and systems
they are going to use.

The DuPont Variprime has an acid-based reducer/activator. You should not put the
Rage over the Variprime if there is any chance that it is not fully cured, and the acid has
not completely converted. This is hard to determine in cool and humid conditions, which
slow the process down. I like to let it dry. Then, before I apply the filler, I remove the
Variprime by grinding the area first. This also gives better mechanical adhesion for the
filler.

Another option is a rust encapsulator like POR-15 or similar product. Clean or sandblast
the rusty areas then apply the POR-15 (or similar product) let it dry per product
information and rough the area up and apply the filler. Anytime you apply filler over
something that has a solvent (thinner/reducer) base it has to be dried and cured enough
so all the solvents are evaporated and still roughed up with abrasive. There are solvents
in the filler that could soak into the layers underneath and cause shrinkage later. Self-
etching primers (acid-based reducer types like Variprime) are still soluble and can
absorb thinner or solvents. Thin layers, maybe 1 coat, will be less likely to cause
problems. Thick layers, like multiple coats, can act like a sponge to soak solvents which
can remain until after the filler cures, possibly causing problems later on as they try to
escape. So even with this information, the best is still to apply the filler directly on the
cleaned (sandblasted, wire-brushed, or abrasive-ground), warm, dry bare metal.

Sandpaper grits are largely a matter of preference. Here are some basic guidelines:

16 to 36-grit for grinder discs for paint removal and bare metal Bondo prep

24 to 36-grit for roughing out the filler with an air file sander or hand board

60 to 80-grit for smoothing out the rough scratches from the previous operation and
shaping finer contours
 80 to 180-grit for further smoothing in preparation for high-build catalyzed primers
(with hardener), or 240 to 320-grit for lacquer-based (non-catalyzed) primers

320 to 600-grit for final sanding prep before paint, following the manufacturer's
guidelines on their product information sheet

600 to 2000-grit for sanding clear coats for re-coating clear, or for removing minor
surface imperfections prior to polishing and buffing.

The last shop I worked in was a Cadillac/Oldsmobile shop where we used AKSO-
NOBEL/ Sikkens paint and primers. These are high-dollar, top-of-the-line products.
Our production system was as follows:

First, the bodyman finishes the filler work to 80-grit, then a quick trip over the filler and
old paint edge with 180-grit on a D/A sander (lightly, to not destroy the shaping), then
feather-edge the surrounding repair with 320-grit on a D/A sander, red scuff pad
(Scotch-Brite) a little past the area to be primed. Prime with two to four coats of high-
build, catalyzed urethane primer. After the primer is cured any areas needing slight
block sanding are done with 240 to 320-grit on the primer. Then use a finishing D/A
sander with 320-grit on flat surfaces and 320 to 400-grit dry sanding on most of the rest
of the repair. For base-coat/clear-coat paint, the rest of the panel was wet-scuffed with
an abrasive cleaner/sanding paste and a gray scuff pad (Scotch-Brite). Certain colors,
mostly some types of metallics, would need a little finer prep on the primer area, maybe
500 to 600-grit light wet-sanding, and then clean-mask-sealer (often not necessary with
this system), and then, paint.

For those of you who are not familiar with a finishing D/A (dual action, orbital) sander, a
regular D/A has an offset spindle that helps cut better for feather-edging and removing
paint. A finishing D/A has less of an offset on the spindle, and with practice, produces a
very smooth and flat surface without waves or ripples.

My favorite suede finish is a very good quality single stage urethane enamel, flattened
to about 75 to 80 percent. Some colors won't stand up with this much flattener in the
mix, so some experience with the pigments used in the mix is a must. A big part of the
durability in any paint system is in the primer undercoats.

A friend of mine was restoring an old Corvette and the owner opted to buy a one-piece
front end and then install the bonding strips to make it look original. I can't remember
the company that made the front end, but it looked nice when it showed up. The
installation went well and the paint looked real nice. This was in late winter early spring.
The first time the car got some serious sunshine the seams and thicker areas of the
glass started to bubble. He thought it was the paint, but when we inspected closer and I
made a couple calls to my mom's cousin's husband (masters degree in industrial
plastics) it confirmed what I suspected. The part was laid-up in January, when the shop
was probably below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They must have heated the outside to set it
up, but the resin didn't reach full cure inside. After sitting in the sun, some of the curing
process continued, which expelled styrene (a powerful solvent in polyester resin) and
gasses, and caused bubbling in the areas mentioned. It was a mess.

Fiberglass resin (polyester resin) is basically the same as what's in Bondo. In pure form
it is like water, but usually the stuff we see is like syrup because it is thickened to make
it easier to handle. The same basic ingredient (MEK peroxide) is used as a catalyst in
Bondo and fiberglass resin. Mixing the correct ratio of liquid hardener to liquid resin is
difficult and you need practice and experience. Temperature is extremely important.
Below 64 degrees Fahrenheit the resin won't cure properly with the correct ratio of
hardener. You can add a little extra hardener but too much and it cures unevenly and
can trap gasses and styrene in the part or crystallize the resin and make it brittle. Over
95 degrees Fahrenheit it cures real fast and thicker areas can easily cure too hot and
crystallize. It starts crystallizing over 140 degrees Fahrenheit. It's best if you can work
between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (the temperature of the mold or part), and
maintain some air flow and the correct hardener ratio, for a nice slow even cure.

Different companies thicken their resin in different ratios, which proportionately affects
the hardener ratio. It takes years of experience and knowledge to get real good at this,
and occasionally the best glass gurus will screw up a batch.

Unsaturated Polyester Resin

Unsaturated polyester resins are the most commonly used thermoset resins in the world. More
than 2 million tonnes of unsaturated polyester resins are utilised globally for the manufacture of
a wide assortment of products, including sanitary-ware, pipes, tanks, gratings and high
performance components for the marine and automotive industry.

Unsaturated polyester resins are produced by chemical reaction of saturated and unsaturated di-
carboxylic acids with alcohols. Unsaturated polyester resins form highly durable structures and
coatings when they are cross-linked with a vinyl reactive monomer, most commonly styrene. The
properties of the cross-linked unsaturated polyester resins depend on the types of acids and
glycols used and their relative proportions.

Unsaturated polyester resins are further classified into the following categories:

Ortho-phthalic polyesters resins made from ortho-phthalic anhydride are generally

cheaper than the other two classes of unsaturated polyester resins. They are usually used
to manufacture general purpose composite laminates where only moderate structural
properties are required.
 Iso-phthalic polyesters resins made from Iso-phthalic acid. These resins are much more
structurally competent than the ortho-phthalic resins. They also have superior corrosion
resistance and are used for more demanding applications

Tere-phthalic polyesters Tere-phthalate resins are made from tere-phthalic acid. These
resins are currently made in small volumes and are considered a specialty resin. Although
they tend to have better thermal and chemical resistance than iso-phthalic resins they are
difficult to manufacture.

Propylene glycol is the predominant alcohol used in producing the various types of unsaturated
polyester resins. Other alcohols like neo-pentyl glycol (NPG), di-ethylene glycol (DEG) and
ethylene glycol (EG) are also used used in the production of unsaturated polyester resins. Each of
these alcohols contributes to the final polymer characteristics, which includes heat distortion
temperature (HDT), physical strength, water uptake and weather resistance.

Their versatility in use allows unsaturated polyester resins to be used in a myriad of composite
applications. Composite parts can be made at temperatures as low as 15C to as high as 150C
depending on the processing requirement of the application.

Unsaturated polyester resins also have excellent service temperatures. They have good freeze-
thaw resistance and can be designed for use in many low to moderate temperature applications
ranging from refrigerated enclosures to hot water geysers.

When it comes to weight for cost comparisons, unsaturated polyester resins are much favoured
over their metallic counterparts. With the current fuel and processing costs, the increasing prices
of steel and aluminium are pushing more fabricators to use unsaturated polyester resin
composites instead. Another major advantage is the increased productivity potential. While
metals involve the use of specific smelters, expensive tooling and processing requirements,
unsaturated polyester resins are far cheaper and afford the use of low cost tooling. An
unsaturated polyester resin can be moulded at ambient temperature whereas metals need to be
heated to well over 2000C before they are melted and poured into mould cavities. Although the
perception is that metals are generally structurally superior, there has been much advancement in
the development of technologies for producing higher strength composites made from
unsaturated polyesters resins.

Adding beauty to structure is easily attained with unsaturated polyester resins. Easily pigmented
resin systems can be employed to produce parts with aesthetic appeal without compromising
structural properties. Natural stone can be simulated with granite like effects in solid surface
features made with special NPG based unsaturated polyester resins. These products are
advantageous over their natural stone counterparts in that they offer non porous surfaces which
allow them to be used in hygienic environments like kitchens, hospitals and biological
laboratories. High gloss blemish free parts can also be produced in-mould using pigmented gel-
coat technologies. In the case of glass-fibre boats a smooth and attractive high gloss surface is
achieved that need not be sprayed or finished with a paint.

Recently there has been a global focus on greener processes and technologies. This is where
unsaturated polyesters have the most potential over their metallic counterparts. Production of
metals continues to deplete our natural resources and consumes most of our fossil fuels.
Unsaturated polyesters although previously synthesised from fossil fuels can now be
manufactured from biological resources instead. Starches, plant oils and other naturally derived
building blocks have been discovered that can be used to prepare unsaturated polyester resins.

Collectively there is an ever increasing potential for unsaturated polyester resins. Their low cost,
ease of use and weight advantages make them prime candidates for a wide variety of structural
and decorative applications. Imagine a world where all metal components are replaced with
thermoset composite components manufactured from unsaturated polyester resins these are the
possibilities of pure science.

As sheet-metal panels become thinner, fewer panels get repaired and more panels are replaced. In
fact, one statistic suggests that as many as 75 percent of autobody panels are replaced in todays
efficient collision repair shops. If only 25 percent of panels are repaired with a dent or crease
removed then less body filler is being used these days.

Mostly gone are the days when the sleazy used-car guy down the street used entire 5-gallon pails
of filler weekly to avoid doing much metal work. Consumers demanded better. Todays fillers are
used in smaller volume, but come in a wider variety of styles providing just the right product
for each application during repair.
So Many Fillers, So Little Time
Poly is a Greek word that means "many," so polyester describes a chain of many chemical
"esters." By that same reasoning, polyurethane describes paint made from many different resins.
By mixing polyester resin and a fill material, body filler is created. What the fill material is made
from differentiates types of body filler.

Talc The original body fillers that replaced lead are filled with talc. Talc is hard clay
that often has a fancy name like "magnesium silicate" but is really just mined out of the
earth. Filler with talc isnt waterproof because the talc wicks the moisture right through
the repair. You know this is true because every time it rains, the water on your lawn is
absorbed into the earth by the clay in the soil. If talc were waterproof, your front yard
would be under water every time it rained.

Aluminum or fiberglass Moisture-resistant fillers use aluminum or fiberglass as fill

material. Neither will absorb moisture like talc does.

Mixing long strands of fiberglass into the polyester resin makes waterproof filler thats
also very strong. Why? Because the strands of fiberglass cross each other at every
possible angle. However, its difficult to sand the very hairy filler to a smooth surface.

Using chopped-up fiberglass as fill makes for a non-talc filler thats much easier to work
with than the long stuff and is still waterproof.

Finely ground aluminum body filler is not only waterproof, but also spreads easily and
gets so hard you can drill and tap it. So why doesnt everyone use aluminum-filled body
filler? Have you priced a can lately?
 Plastic Then theres lightweight body fillers, which use microspheres as filler. Unlike
pieces of talc which are not only surrounded by the polyester resin but also absorb it
microspheres are surrounded by resin but dont absorb any. As their name indicates,
microspheres are tiny globes of plastic. Available in several sizes, they reduce the weight
of the filler and speed the cure time.

Since theyre hollow plastic and wont absorb any resin, they weigh less than a resin-
soaked chunk of clay. And since theyre only surrounded by resin, theres less resin mass
for the hardener to catalyze so lightweight fillers harden faster. Because most
lightweights also contain some talc, theyre not waterproof.

The Role of Hardeners

The hardener for polyester resin has an oxidizing agent that creates heat and cures or hardens the
esters into a rigid form. Paste hardener has benzoyl peroxide as its agent, and liquid hardener has
MEK peroxide to create the necessary heat. Typically, paste hardener is about 49 percent benzoyl
peroxide, 49 percent plastic carrier agent and 1 or 2 percent colored dye. The dye is present to
ensure a thorough mix with the body filler.

A uniform color indicates even mixing. Many premium fillers come with specially colored
plastic spreaders. The goal is to mix the paste hardener in an amount that yields body filler tinted
the exact same color as the plastic spreader.

Determining the correct amount of hardener will vary with the temperature in your shop. Hot
weather and hot metal surfaces will make the filler cure faster. Conversely, cold temperatures and
cold metal surfaces will make the filler cure very slowly. Many body filler directions call for
adding a 1-inch ribbon of hardener to a golf-ball-size lump of filler. But most technicians go way
too fast to calculate how many golf balls would fit in their puddle of filler. One common piece of
folk wisdom is to rap the mixing board on the edge of the workbench until the body filler flows
down from a mound into a puddle. Then lightly squeeze the tube of hardener to make a letter "X"
across the puddle. Hardly a precise measurement. The real test is the color of the mixed filler and
the cure time. If the filler doesnt have a noticeable color difference after mixing, not enough
hardener was used. If the filler is a dark, vivid shade, itll likely set up way too fast because too
much hardener was used.

The tube of paste hardener has a relatively short shelf life. All body filler comes with some sort
of date coding (i.e. "Best if used by December 2000"). So, if you find a case of filler hidden on
the bottom of your shelf with a date long past, you may only need new tubes of hardener to make
it work well.

In a heated storage room, the polyester body filler will last several years. Its just the hardener
that goes bad. Paste hardener should be kneaded in the tube to reach a smooth uniform
consistency every time before its used. If the paste feels chunky or watery, looks milky or clear
and wont go back together, you need new hardener.
Tips On Body Fillers

When the lid comes off a new gallon can of filler, youre
likely to see a layer of liquid resin floating on the top.
Whats happened is the fill material (talc, aluminum or
fiberglass) has sunk to the bottom to the can. Just use a
sturdy mixing stick and slowly stir the resin back into the
filler.

When you open an old can of some lightweight fillers,

you may see a dry crusty layer on the very top. What happened is the very light
microspheres floated to the top of the resin, leaving a dry looking product. All thats
required is the same careful top-to-bottom stirring action. If the filler wont re-
homogenize with a reasonable amount of stirring, discard the can.

Body filler is designed to be used in temperatures ranging from 60-90 degrees F. Within
that range, the filler should be ready to cheese grate in 10 to 12 minutes, ready to sand in
20 to 25 minutes and completely cured in 60 minutes.

Body filler should be applied in thin layers from 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thick, with dry time
between layers.

Polyester resin body fillers dry naturally with a sticky or tacky top surface. The catalytic
heat is trapped in the layer of filler by the surrounding metal dent and by the filler itself
except at the very top where the heat can escape, preventing complete cure and
leaving a tacky surface. You can simply sand off the very thin layer of sticky resin with
an 80-grit disc or use tack-free filler. Tack-free body filler contains paraffin wax, which
floats to the top surface of the repair and prevents heat from escaping. You can do the
same thing by covering the filler with wax paper as it cures or even get filler to dry tack-
free by applying external heat from a quartz heat lamp. Beware of washing off the tacky
resin with strong solvents. The solvent is wicked into the filler by the talc and will cause
the filler to remain soft.

Too much hardener or improper mixing and spreading can cause pinholes. The pinholes
may simply be air bubbles that were whipped into the filler when stirring the new can.
Never put body filler on a paint shaker because violent agitation can cause air bubbles.
When adding the hardener, dont stir the mixture. Instead, fold the filler over on itself and
push the hardener into the resin.

High humidity can cause the filler to trap moisture, which can cause pinholes, as well.
And applying the filler too thick can cause gassing and air entrapment, which will also
show up as pinholes.
 Adhesion of body filler is dependent on good surface preparation. If the area isnt clean
and free of wax, grease or other contaminants, the filler wont stick. Getting filler to stick
to galvanized metal can be difficult. Keeping the filler from rolling back at the thinnest
tapered edge can also be a challenge. Special additives or adhesion promoters cause the
resin to adhere better to the zinc coating and are well-worth their extra cost. Its much
better to buy special fillers designed to stick to galvanized than it is to grind off all the
corrosion-resistant zinc.

To get the best adhesion, push the first coat of mixed filler tightly onto the clean, sanded
substrate in thin coats. Grind the repair area with 24-, 36- or 80-grit sandpaper first.

All fillers tend to be weak at their thinnest point. On the very tapered edge of the repair,
theres very little filler mass and, as a result, not much heat. Without the heat, the filler
doesnt cure thoroughly and peels off when sanded. External heat from a quartz light will
help the thin, outer edges stick better.

Using too little hardener can cause the same rollback problem on the thin edge. Use the
right amount for the changing conditions in your shop.

One common problem is featheredge sanding too soon. Wait 20-25 minutes before
sanding for maximum adhesion.

Another whole set of problems including staining, poor cure, sand scratches and poor
topcoat adhesion can plague body filler when its painted over, and all of them can be
traced to the solvent in the primer, the sealer, the color and the clear. Because most fillers
contain some talc, theyll readily absorb solvent and hold onto it. Since new high-tech
clearcoats are made from very sophisticated resin technology, they require strong solvents
to dissolve them. This is why you seldom see a filler problem appear under the primer or
even the color coats. Its the clear that has the strongest solvent base and can cause the
most damage when sucked into the filler. Waiting an hour for the filler to cure before
painting anything over it is a great way to prevent problems. You cant elect to use milder
solvents because they wont dissolve and flow the snazzy clearcoat.

Is That a Stain I See?

Staining in body filler is less common than you might think, based on the popularity of stain-free
fillers. I often ask painters in my audiences if theyve ever had a filler stain, and many say no.
Many others have gone years between stains.

Most often seen on light colored paints, the stain can appear as an amber yellow or off-white
patch under the clear. Whats happened is that strong solvent has been absorbed into the filler.

What actually causes the stain is open to interpretation. One hypothesis is that the peroxide
agents in the hardener are pulled to the surface by the escaping solvent. Once there, they can
bleach the pigment out of some colors or even react with some pigments to cause a visible stain.
If youve dramatically over-catalyzed the filler, the stain may also have a dark ring around the
edge of the repair. If youve applied the filler too thickly and not allowed dry time, the absorbed
solvent can actually release a pocket of "gas" that can alter the pigmentation and cause a stain.

To minimize the chance of a stain, wait the recommended dry times before applying anything
over the filler. Be careful not to force dry a repair too soon either. The external heat from the
drying light or the oven can drive the solvent deeper into the filler.

To prevent staining, keep the solvent from touching the talc containing filler. Use a two-part
primer over the filler as a barrier coat. Either polyester, epoxy or urethane primer surfacers will
act as a firewall to turn back the encroaching solvent. Two-component sealers add even more
protection from solvent absorption into the filler.

Like many who have been around the industry for a long time, I first saw a filler stain on a white
pearl custom paint job. After months of careful work, the painter was devastated to see a huge
yellow stain on the repaired quarter panel which didnt appear until the car was parked
outside under the hot sun for several days. In those days, the custom finish of choice was acrylic
lacquer. This car had multiple coats of acrylic lacquer primer surfacer, lacquer sealer, white
acrylic lacquer color, white pearl midcoat and many coats of acrylic lacquer clear. The color, the
pearl and the clear were all thinned with the slowest, best flowing lacquer thinner available.

Many of you remember just how potent PPG DTL105, DuPont 3602S and R-M PNT90 are.
They were absorbed deeply into the conventional style, talc-filled body filler. When the hot sun
had a chance to heat the repair, the thinner evaporated and carried some free agent along with it
that bleached the white color yellow.

Today, a nice 2K primer or sealer would likely have kept the lacquer thinner from ever reaching
the body filler.

Stain, Stain Go Away

Once a stain appears, how will you repair it? One possibility is to remove all the topcoats and
filler and start over, making sure to apply the filler in thin coats and allow plenty of dry time
before painting. Leave at least 5 mils of 2K primer and/or sealer between the filler and the color
coat to act as a barrier.

Dont want to take it all off? I dont blame you. Another possible repair is to sand the stain off
below the filler surface without removing the bulk of the filler. Apply 2K spot putty, allow plenty
of dry time, and re-apply the color and clear.

An easier repair is to just sand the color off down into the primer surfacer, re-apply the 2K
primer, re-color and re-clear.

Fastest of all is to simply sand off the clear and shoot more basecoat directly over the yellow
stain. Fully cured topcoats make for a sturdy barrier coat themselves. In my experience, this last
version has worked very well. Ive never had filler re-stain in the same spot, but its possible.
The surest solution is to remove it all and start again, but Id certainly try to just re-color and re-
clear first.

You can probably avoid the problem entirely if you use the recommended amount of hardener,
wait the appropriate dry times and apply a 2K-barrier coat over the filler.

Filler Up!
Todays specialty fillers offer tack-free, stain-free, galvanized adhesion and easy sanding. If your
shop is buying the cheapest filler possible to save money, youll likely find that a more expensive
filler with better resin, better talc, microspheres and selective additives will do a better job, and
do it faster.

Labor time remains the most expensive thing in any body shop. At $34 per hour, a 10-minute
savings per repair adds up to $5.70 well-worth the extra cost for the good stuff.

Writer Mark Clark, owner of Professional PBE Systems in Waterloo, Iowa, is a well-known
industry speaker and consultant. Hes been a contributing editor to BodyShop Business since
1988.

Out with the Lead, In with the New

Body filler was invented to replace lead which is very difficult to use
to restore bent sheet metal to contour. Many years ago, I had several lessons
from older body technicians on spreading lead. I never got the hang of it. The
problem occurs on vertical panels that darn gravity makes the job tough.

Body lead is also correctly called bar solder. Since its solder, it turns molten
at fairly low temperatures. The trick is to get the surface of the metal to the
same temperature as the stick of lead (after youve treated the bare metal to
accept the solder). By passing a soft flame from the acetylene torch equally
over the panel and the stick, you can push the molten lead onto the panel.
Once its puddled on the panel, you smooth it out by pressing a wooden
paddle coated with beeswax over the warm surface. I was actually able to do
this successfully once or twice. My problem occurred after I started filing the
patch with a metal file and discovered I needed more lead. Guess what? As
soon as I got the metal temperature as warm as the stick of lead, the existing
puddle turned molten too (duh!) and ran down the side of the car. No wonder
polyester body filler is so popular. Its easy to use.

A Note About Spot Putties

Spot putties that use paste hardener are nothing more than finely ground
body fillers. By running the talc through a grinder more times, a finer,
smoother putty is possible. Adding smaller microspheres to lightweight putty
also makes for smoother spreading. Some shops insist on using tubes of
lacquer spot putty, claiming that the time to mix 2K putties is inconvenient.
The problem is the tendency of the lacquer resin to absorb solvent from
subsequent color and clearcoats. It swells and shrinks as solvent is absorbed
and released. Catalyzed spot putties wont swell as solvent is applied and
will stay flat once sanded flat.