TOP TEN AIRBRUSH TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

Prepared and provided courtesy of BADGER AIR-BRUSH CO.

1) Bubbling in color reservoir (color cup or jar). When this occurs it is the result of air entering
into the paint channel. This concern can have several causes; the most common are a bad seal
somewhere in the nozzle, tip dry, incorrect spray regulator/air cap alignment, or a split paint tip.

-If a bad nozzle seal is the cause, in the case of a threaded paint tip nozzle, make certain the paint tip
thread is properly sealed with beeswax or other sufficient sealing agent. In the case of a drop in paint
tip nozzle, make certain the paint tip is properly seated in the angled recess of the airbrush body, and
that all surfaces between the two components are cleared of any debris and are not marred or
scratched. Lastly, in the case of airbrushes that require a head seal between the nozzle assembly
and the airbrush body, be certain the head seal is in place and is in proper condition to create the
necessary seal at this point of air flow.

-If tip dry is the cause, remove the dried paint from the needle/nozzle tip by either picking it off with
your finger tips/nails or spraying cleaner through the airbrush. If tip dry occurs frequently in your
application it may be helpful to keep a paint brush and small container of water nearby to wet the
nozzle and get your airbrush spraying properly again when necessary. Tip dry will usually occur
more frequently in detail airbrushing applications.

-If you think the bubbling may be occurring due to incorrect spray regulator/air cap alignment tighten
or loosen your spray regulator/air cap in turn or lesser increments to determine if that is the certain
cause of the problem. If it is, your airbrush will stop bubbling and resume spraying once you hit the
spray regulator/air caps sweet spot.

-If a split paint tip is the cause of the bubbling, the only corrective measure is to replace the paint tip.

2) Off-center spray. This is caused by a bent needle tip. As media exits the airbrush it rolls off of
the needle. If the needle is bent it will cause the spray to lean to one side or the other. To correct
this problem carefully attempt to straighten the needle tip. A grooved sharpening stone is an effective
device for trying to straighten airbrush needle tips. If you are unable to straighten the needle tip, a
replacement needle will need to be installed to correct the off-center spray concern.

3) Spray will not shut off and/or occurs without sliding the trigger back. This concern can have
several causes; the most common are improper seating of the needle in the paint tip, a flared pain
tip, or partial tip dry.

-If the needle is not seated properly in the paint tip, it is necessary to re-seat it. To do so access and
loosen the needle chuck, slide the needle forward until it stops and seats in the paint tip, and re-
tighten the needle chuck. DO NOT USE FORCE when seating the needle in the paint tip, when it
stops it should be seated properly.

-If the spray will not shut off due to a flared tip, it is necessary to replace the paint tip.

-If the spray will not shut off because of partial tip dry/clogging remove the dried paint from the
needle/nozzle tip by either picking it off with your finger tips/nails or spraying cleaner through the
airbrush.
4) Spray pattern pulsation. This concern can have several causes; the most common are a bad
seal (usually one that cannot be trained to properly play well with other seals, LOL, just kidding we
do have a sense of humor though), inconsistent media viscosity (usually paint being too thick), or an
inadequate or improperly performing air compressor.

-A bad seal can occur anywhere air could potentially leak from while traveling from the air source
through the airbrush. Although some low levels of air leakage are common, and may not adversely
affect an airbrushs spray performance, if you are experiencing a pulsation in your airbrushs spray
pattern, you should check all threaded parts and seals to ensure there is no excessive air leakage at
any of these points. Airbrushes that require a head seal between the nozzle assembly and the
airbrush body may leak air, causing a pulsating spray, if the head seal is not properly in place. If this
occurs it is advisable to reposition or replace the head seal. Additionally, many airbrushes have
inner seals (inside of the airbrush body) that the needle passes through. These seals are designed to
make sure paint is properly directed to the airbrush nozzle and does not flow to the rear of the
airbrush. If the airbrushs inner seal is broken, it can also cause a pulsating spray. To fix a bad inner
seal it is necessary to replace it. In many instances this seal replacement is best done at the factory
by the airbrushs manufacturer. (This is a lifetime warranted part on Badger airbrushes). Lastly,
although not likely to cause a pulsating spray, the hose connections at the airbrush and the air source
should be properly sealed. This can usually be done effectively with the wrapping of Teflon
plumbers tape around the male threaded part.

-If spray pulsation is caused by an inconsistent paint viscosity, the paint should be adjusted to proper
spraying viscosity. It is also important to make sure that paint is properly blended so that pigment is
evenly distributed through the paint to ensure spray consistency. The rule of thumb for preparing
paints (or other materials) for airbrushing is to reduce them to the approximate visual viscosity of 2%
milk. As starting paint viscosities often vary from color to color, even within a specific paint brand, it is
best to avoid fixed thinning ratios. It is also best to vigorously mix/stir paint, rather than shaking it,
before use. Mixing/stirring paint better blends pigment and base creating a more consistent paint
from the top to the bottom of the bottle. Mixing/stirring paint also causes pigment to re-settle slower.

-If paint pulsation is caused by an inadequate or improperly performing air compressor, it may be
necessary to have the compressor repaired or replaced. Over time air compressors can incur
diminished performance that can adversely affect their performance efficiency. This is especially
noticeable with small tankless diaphragm compressors that can present pulsation of the diaphragm
action in an airbrushes spray pattern if the compressor operates inefficiently.

5) Grainy spray. This is caused by paint (or other media) not being properly reduced, meaning it is
too thick to atomize properly, or not operating the airbrush at a high enough pressure.

Paint (or other media) should be the viscosity equivalent of 2% milk to spray properly through an
airbrush. Sparingly add the appropriate thinner to the paint (or other media) until it is the proper
sprayable viscosity. Also check the needle tip and nozzle tip to make sure no tip dry has formed on
the nozzle.

A bottom feed airbrush should have at least 16 PSI (higher for heavier media) while spraying to
operate properly. A gravity feed airbrush can be operated at spray pressures as low as 8 PSI. Check
the pressure you are spraying at to be sure it is high enough for the type of airbrush you are using,
and the type of media you are spraying.

6) Buckling surface. This is caused if paint (or other media) is too thin or runny or applied too
heavily on a thin porous substrate (usually a rag type paper). If working close to the surface take
care not slide the airbrush trigger back too far releasing more paint than desired and over saturating
the surface youre spraying. You should only work close to the surface when wanting to do fine lines,
and only sliding the trigger back a little bit. If working with an extremely thin media apply it in fine
coats, letting one coat dry before applying another. This will prevent over saturating your surface and
give you greater control in developing your artwork to your desired end.

7) Paint blobs at the ends of the stroke or barbell patterns. This is caused by sliding the trigger
back before beginning your hand movement and stopping your hand movement before and not
sliding your trigger forward to shut off paint flow before stopping your hand movement. This can only
be remedied by being aware of your triggering and practicing proper triggering techniques. Practice,
practice, practice. Creating a grid of dots (on a blank sheet) with your airbrush then going back
and connecting the dots, drawing figure eights, and/or simply writing your name with the airbrush all
airbrushing exercises. Using your airbrush to color in coloring books is also a very helpful, skill
developing, method of airbrush practice. Practice, practice, practice.

8) Flared ends or curved stroke. This is caused by turning the wrist at the end of the airbrush
stroke or arcing closer to the surface during the airbrush stroke. Unless these spray pattern effects
are desired, it is important to maintain consistent parallel distance from the surface you are spraying
through your entire airbrush stroke. This again is best corrected by practicing and developing your
skill level and a comfort with how the airbrush works. Creating a grid of dots (on a blank sheet) with
your airbrush then going back and connecting the dots, drawing figure eights, and/or simply writing
your name with the airbrush are all good airbrushing practice exercises. Coloring in a coloring book
with your airbrush is also a helpful, skill developing, method of airbrush practice. To practice airbrush
technique on three dimensional objects, paint items such as scratch plastic/metal, pop cans, empty
plastic bottles, or other contoured items that are of little or no value.

9) Centipede or spidering spray patterns. This is caused if paint (or other media) is too thin or
runny or applied too heavily on a non-porous substrate (metals, plastics, etc.). If working close to
the surface take care not slide the airbrush trigger back too far - releasing more paint than desired.
On hard surfaces excess paint cannot be absorbed and will scatter over the surface in a centipede or
spidering pattern. When wanting to do fine lines and working close to the surface you should only
slide the trigger back a little bit to release a small amount of media. If working with an extremely thin
media apply it in fine coats and let one coat dry before applying another to avoid a scattering effect
when air (and additional paint) passes back through still wet paint. The probability of this undesired
effect is increased if spraying your airbrush at too high of an air pressure, so check to make sure your
air pressure is properly set for the type of airbrush you are using, the media you are spraying, and the
type of surface you are finishing.

10) Dot blotching or splattering at the start of end of spraying. This is caused by an incorrect
triggering technique of stopping air flow (releasing downward trigger pressure) before turning off paint
flow (sliding trigger/needle forward to close off paint tip). By turning air flow off before paint flow, paint
goes around the needle and floods the nozzle. The result of this flooding is either one of two
things. 1. As the needle returns forward upon releasing the trigger, it pushes the paint that has
flooded the paint tip out in a burst or splatter of blotched dots. 2. If possibility 1 does not occur the
flooded paint remains in the nozzle and is blown out in a burst or splatter of blotched dots when the
trigger is depressed to resume airbrushing. This is another technique issue that can be prevented by
learning and developing proper triggering technique. Remember to carefully slide the trigger back
forward to stop paint flow, dont let it snap back.

The only thing that you cannot be taught is practice. The more you practice your airbrushing the
greater your airbrush skills will become and the more your airbrushing confidence and enjoyment will
increase. (See tip #8 above for a few recommended triggering practice techniques)

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