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Aconcagua

For other uses, see Aconcagua (disambiguation).

Aconcagua (Spanish pronunciation: [akokawa]) is the


highest mountain outside of Asia, at 6,961 metres
(22,838 ft), and by extension the highest point in both the
Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere.[1] It
is located in the Andes mountain range, in the Mendoza
Province, Argentina, and lies 112 kilometres (70 mi)
northwest of its capital, the city of Mendoza. The sum-
mit is also located about 5 kilometres from San Juan
Province and 15 kilometres from the international bor-
der with Chile; its nearest higher neighbor is Tirich Mir
in the Hindu Kush, 16,520 kilometres (10,270 mi) away.
It is one of the Seven Summits.
Aerial view
Aconcagua is bounded by the Valle de las Vacas to the
north and east and the Valle de los Horcones Inferior to
the west and south. The mountain and its surroundings will aect most climbers to some extent, depending on
are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. The moun- the degree of acclimatization.[7] Even if the normal climb
tain has a number of glaciers. The largest glacier is is technically easy, multiple casualties occur every year on
the Ventisquero Horcones Inferior at about 10 km long, this mountain (in January 2009 alone ve climbers died).
which descends from the south face to about 3600 m This is due to the large numbers of climbers who make
altitude near the Conuencia camp.[3] Two other large the attempt and because many climbers underestimate
glacier systems are the Ventisquero de las Vacas Sur and the objective risks of the elevation and of cold weather,
Glaciar Este/Ventisquero Relinchos system at about 5 km which is the real challenge on this mountain. Given the
long. The most well-known is the north-eastern or Polish weather conditions close to the summit, cold weather in-
Glacier, as it is a common route of ascent. juries are very common.

The mountain was created by the subduction of the The Polish Glacier Traverse route, also known as the
Nazca Plate beneath the South American Plate during Falso de los Polacos route, crosses through the Vacas
the geologically recent Andean orogeny; but it is not valley, ascends to the base of the Polish Glacier, then tra-
a volcano.[4] The origin of the name is contested; it is verses across to the normal route for the nal ascent to
either from the Mapuche Aconca-Hue, which refers to the summit. The third most popular route is by the Polish
the Aconcagua River and means comes from the other Glacier itself.
side, the Quechua Ackon Cahuak, meaning "'Sentinel No hard records are kept about Aconcagua ascents, but
of Stone, or Quechua Anco Cahuac, White Sentinel[5] the Provincial Park reports a success rate of about 60%
or the Aymara Janq'u Q'awa, White Ravine, White of climbers who attempt the mountain. About 75%
Brook.[6] of climbers are foreigners and 25% are Argentinean.
Among foreigners, the United States leads in number of
climbers, followed by Germany and the UK. About 54%
of climbers ascend the Normal Route, 43% up the Polish
1 Climbing Glacier Route, and the remaining 3% on other routes.[8]
The routes to the peak from the south and south-west
In mountaineering terms, Aconcagua is technically an ridges are more demanding, and the south face climb is
easy mountain if approached from the north, via the considered very dicult.
normal route. Aconcagua is arguably the highest non-
technical mountain in the world, since the northern route The camp sites on the normal route are listed below (al-
does not absolutely require ropes, axes, and pins. Al- titudes are approximate).
though the eects of altitude are severe (atmospheric
pressure is 40% of sea-level at the summit), the use of Puente del Inca, 2,740 m (8,990 ft): A small village
supplemental oxygen is not common. Altitude sickness on the main road, with facilities including a lodge.

1
2 1 CLIMBING

Normal route to the summit

South summit and ridge 1.1 History

The rst attempt to reach the summit of Aconcagua by a


Conuencia, 3,380 m (11,090 ft): A camp site a few European was made in 1883 by a party led by the German
hours into the national park. geologist and explorer Paul Gssfeldt. Bribing porters
with the story of treasure on the mountain, he approached
Plaza de Mulas, 4,370 m (14,340 ft): Base camp,
the mountain via the Rio Volcan, making two attempts on
claimed to be the second largest in the world (after
the peak by the north-west ridge and reaching an altitude
Everest). There are several meal tents, showers and
of 6,500 metres (21,300 ft). The route that he prospected
internet access. There is a lodge approx. 1 km from
is now the normal route up the mountain.
the main campsite across the glacier. At this camp,
[2]
climbers are screened by a medical team to check if The rst recorded ascent was in 1897 by a European ex-
they are t enough to continue the climb. pedition led by the British mountaineer Edward FitzGer-
ald. FitzGerald failed to reach the summit himself over
Camp Canad, 5,050 metres (16,570 ft): A large eight attempts between December 1896 and February
ledge overlooking Plaza de Mulas. 1897, but the (Swiss) guide of the expedition, Matthias
Zurbriggen reached the summit on January 14. On the
Camp Alaska, 5,200 metres (17,060 ft): Called
nal attempt a month later, two other expedition mem-
'change of slope' in Spanish, a small site as the slope
bers, Stuart Vines and Nicola Lanti, reached the summit
from Plaza de Mulas to Nido de Cndores lessens.
on February 13.[11]
Not commonly used.
The east side of Aconcagua was rst scaled by a Pol-
Nido de Cndores, 5,570 metres (18,270 ft): A ish expedition, with Konstanty Narkievicz-Jodko, Stefan
large plateau with beautiful views. There is usually Daszynski, Wiktor Ostrowski and Stefan Osiecki sum-
a park ranger camped here. miting on March 9, 1934 over what is now known as
the Polish Glacier. A route over the Southwest Ridge
Camp Berln, 5,940 metres (19,490 ft): The classic
was pioneered over seven days in January 1953 by the
high camp, oering reasonable wind protection.
Swiss-Argentine team of Frederico and Dorly Marmil-
Camp Colera, 6,000 metres (19,690 ft): A larger, lod, Francisco Ibanez and Fernando Grajales. The fa-
while slightly more exposed, camp situated directly mously dicult South Face was conquered by a French
at the north ridge near Camp Berln, with grow- team led by Ren Ferlet. Pierre Lesueur, Adrien Dagory,
ing popularity. In January 2011, a shelter was Robert Paragot, Edmond Denis, Lucien Berardini and
opened in Camp Colera for exclusive use in cases of Guy Poulet reached the summit after a month of eort
[12][13]
emergency.[9] The shelter is named Elena after Ital- on 25 February 1954.
ian climber Elena Senin, who died in January 2009 The youngest person to reach the summit of Aconcagua
shortly after reaching the summit, and whose family was Tyler Armstrong of California. He was nine years old
donated the shelter.[10] when he reached the summit on December 24, 2013.[14]
The oldest person to climb it was Scott Lewis, who
Several sites possible for camping or bivouac, in-
reached the summit on November 26, 2007 when he was
cluding Piedras Blancas (~6100 m) and Independen-
87 years old.[15]
cia (~6350 m), are located above Colera; however,
they are seldom used and oer little protection. In the base camp Plaza de Mulas (at 4300 metres above
sea level) there is the highest contemporary art gallery
Summit attempts are usually made from a high camp at tent called [16]
Nautilus of the Argentine painter Miguel
either Berln or Colera, or from the lower camp at Nido de Doura.
Cndores. All camps are used frequently, namely Plaza In 2014 Kilian Jornet set a record for climbing and de-
de Mulas and Nido de Cndores. scending Aconcagua from Horcones in 12 hours and 49
3

minutes.[17] 4 Notes
The record was broken less than two months later by
Ecuadorian-Swiss Karl Eglo, in a time of 11 hours 52 [1] Informe cientco que estudia el Aconcagua, el Coloso
de Amrica mide 6960,8 metros [Scientic Report on
minutes, nearly an hour faster than Kilian Jornet.[18]
Aconcagua, the Colossus of America measures 6960,8m]
(in Spanish). Universidad Nacional de Cuyo. 2012. Re-
trieved September 3, 2012.
2 Popular culture [2] There is no denitive proof that the ancient Incas actually
climbed to the summit of the White Sentinel [Aconcagua],
but there is considerable evidence that they did climb very
high on the mountain. Signs of Inca ascents have been
found on summits throughout the Andes, thus far the high-
est atop Llullaillaco, a 6,721-metre (22,051 ft) mountain
astride the Chilean-Argentine border in the Atacama re-
gion. On Aconcagua, the skeleton of a guanaco was found
in 1947 along the ridge connecting the North Summit with
the South Summit. It seems doubtful that a guanaco would
climb that high on the mountain on its own. Furthermore,
an Inca mummy has been found at 5400 m on the south
west ridge of Aconcagua, near Cerro Piramidal R. J.
Secor, Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide, The Mountaineers,
1994, ISBN 0-89886-406-2, p. 13.

[3] Servei General d'Informacio de Muntanya, 2002,


Aconcagua 1:50,000 map, published by Cordee

[4] Simkin, T. and Siebert, L. (2002-). What is the worlds


highest volcano? Smithsonian Institution, Global Volcan-
ism Program. Accessed 22 August 2012.

[5] Secor, op. cit., p. 13.

[6] Guas Pedaggicas del Sector Lengua Indgena, Aymara


Ministerio de Educacin, Fondo de las Naciones Unidas
para la Infancia, UNICEF, Santiago de Chile, 2012 (Span-
ish), p. 62 Janqu qawa (Aconcagua: quebrada blanca).

[7] Muza, SR; Fulco, CS; Cymerman, A (2004). Altitude


Acclimatization Guide. US Army Research Inst. of Envi-
ronmental Medicine Thermal and Mountain Medicine Di-
vision Technical Report (USARIEMTN0405). Re-
Pedro and Aconcagua trieved 2009-03-05.

[8] Stewart Green. Aconcagua Highest Mountain in


The mountain has a cameo in a 1942 Disney cartoon South America.
called Pedro.[19] The cartoon stars an anthropomorphic
small airplane named Pedro who makes an air mail run [9] TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF USE OF THE
over the Andes and has a near-disastrous encounter with ELENA SHELTER - ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL
Aconcagua. The mountain was featured in an illustration PARK.
used when the story was collected in a Disney anthology [10] Inauguracin del refugio Elena.
book. It was also mentioned as the correct answer to a
quiz show question in the 1969 Disney lm The Computer [11] Fitzgerald, E. A. (1898). On Top of Aconcagua and Tu-
Wore Tennis Shoes. pangato. McClures magazine (S. S. McClure, Limited)
12 (1): 7178.

[12] R.J. Secor, Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide, The Moun-


taineers Books, 1999, pp. 17-21
3 See also
[13] Mario Fantin, Some Notes on the History of Aconcagua,
The Alpine Journal 1966
Aconcagua mummy
[14] Nine-year-old US boy climbs Aconcagua peak in Ar-
Ojos del Salado gentina. BBC News. 28 December 2013.

[15] Rcord: un nio de 10 aos hizo cumbre en el cerro


Las Heras, Mendoza Aconcagua (in Spanish). Retrieved 2010-10-26.
4 5 EXTERNAL LINKS

[16] Guinness World Records

[17] Kilian Jornet Smashes Aconcagua Speed Record.


Climbing Magazine. 23 December 2014.

[18] Aconcagua Speed Record Smashed Again. Climbing


Magazine. 19 February 2014.

[19] Pedro (1943)". IMDb. Retrieved 2010-10-26.

5 External links
Aconcagua in Andeshandbook

Aconcagua. SummitPost.org. Retrieved 2010-


10-26.

Centro de Investigacin en Medicina de Altura


(CIMA) de Aconcagua is an international consor-
tium of high altitude researchers and mountaineers
interested in improving the safety of mountaineers
on Aconcagua and enhancing our understanding of
the pathology of high altitude illness.
Daily time lapse animations of the Aconcagua base
camp Webcam
Highest peaks on peakware.com

Interactive Satellite / Terrain Map, Photos, and In-


formation on climbing Aconcagua

Live webcam from Aconcagua base camp (Decem-


ber to March)

Aconcagua: Everymans Everest


5

6 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses


6.1 Text
Aconcagua Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aconcagua?oldid=702009690 Contributors: Kpjas, Ortolan88, Shimmin, Docu, , To-
bias Conradi, Zarius, Hike395, David Newton, Bemoeial, DonPaolo, Fuzheado, Val42, Twang, Robbot, RedWolf, Rebrane, Baloo rch,
Xyzzyva, Grard, SpiceMan, Cantus, Gilgamesh~enwiki, Jason Quinn, Macrakis, Chowbok, Alexf, Gdr, Yardcock, Vina, Wkdewey,
Mschlindwein, Thorwald, Mike Rosoft, D6, Vsmith, Xezbeth, CanisRufus, Kwamikagami, Wareh, CeeGee, Shenme, Darwinek, Gsv,
Jumbuck, Schnell, Buaidh, Yamla, Gorotdi, Avenue, Marianocecowski, Mtiedemann, Marcelo1229, Alvis, Jdorje, WadeSimMiser, Miss
Madeline, SDC, Dysepsion, Island, Sebastiankessel, Wahkeenah, Tbone, FlaBot, Psroberts, Mark J, Wars, NevilleDNZ, Chobot, Trunl,
YurikBot, NTBot~enwiki, Splash, Fluorhydric, Hydrargyrum, Member, NawlinWiki, Zwobot, Brisvegas, Xabian40409, Jonathan.s.kt, El-
liskev, Vanka5, SmackBot, Nihonjoe, Olorin28, KocjoBot~enwiki, Spireguy, MelancholieBot, Gilliam, Hmains, MK8, Droll, Afasmit,
Viewnder, DHN-bot~enwiki, Pcstico, Veggies, Berland, Countzander, QazPlm, -x-, Rigadoun, Tktktk, NongBot~enwiki, Luokehao,
Erwin, Abjad, DarkoV~enwiki, Joseph Solis in Australia, Newone, Webster22, Soapthgr8, Courcelles, Tom042, Van helsing, Nat91,
Steinardo, 345Kai, WeggeBot, John M Baker, Valodzka, Road Wizard, Drfunko, CieloEstrellado, Thijs!bot, Sebasbronzini, Epbr123,
Mojo Hand, Rosarinagazo, Missvain, Ufwuct, Aadal, AntiVandalBot, Seaphoto, Emeraldcityserendipity, Tillman, JAnDbot, Deective,
Caracaskid, Ericoides, Hapmt, R27182818, Geniac, FaerieInGrey, Magioladitis, Dentren, Timfpark, MetsBot, Allstarecho, Aconcagua,
GregU, MartinBot, R'n'B, CommonsDelinker, Silanosan, Bcartolo, LordAnubisBOT, Clerks, STBotD, Greatestrowerever, Useight, Idioma-
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Capitalismojo, Danskubr, Tkreuz, Bmhcmc, ClueBot, Mariordo, Ndenison, Joao Xavier, Harland1, Parkwells, Dancemaid, Excirial, Mace-
donianBoy, Thingg, SoxBot III, Steveozone, Darkicebot, Kdlundgren, BodhisattvaBot, Doc9871, Addbot, Polinizador, Jojhutton, Tcncv,
AkhtaBot, Asybaris01, Jim10701, LaaknorBot, Cambalachero, Favonian, Radu.vatcu~enwiki, LinkFA-Bot, Numbo3-bot, Tide rolls, Light-
bot, Bermicourt, Waltloc, Frehley, Luckas-bot, Yobot, Ptbotgourou, Legobot II, 2policesquare, AnomieBOT, Caregz, Archon 2488, Pi-
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GrouchoBot, Ruodyssey, RibotBOT, Bangabandhu, Doulos Christos, MountainClimber1, Jonnlantz, Pycia com, Purebound, LucienBOT,
Originalwana, Burdenj, MGA73bot, JMilty, Citation bot 1, Pinethicket, RedBot, Monocletophat123, Full-date unlinking bot, C messier,
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Tutelary, Jeremy112233, HueSatLum, Aconcaguaaymara, Mrt3366, Climb7moniz, Dexbot, FoCuSandLeArN, Graphium, Little green
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6.2 Images
File:Aconcagua_(aerial).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6f/Aconcagua_%28aerial%29.jpg License:
CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Aconcagua.8.22.03w.jpg Original artist: Beatriz Moisset
File:Aconcagua_SouthSummit2007.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/28/Aconcagua_
SouthSummit2007.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Albert Backer
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cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Argentina_location_map.svg (This map violates legal regulations Argentina (Ley de la Carta [Law No.
22963]).
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