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Busteni - Climbing Topo Guide v1.

0 Sport climbing around Brasov, part B September 2008 by Nicolas

BUSTENI - Piranha
Climbing Topo Guide
v1.0

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The authos takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some
descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to nicolas.ecoffet@hotmail.fr
NOTA: Acest document este doar pentru informare si a fost dezvoltat in cadrul Proiectului Topo Romania. Autorul nu is asuma responsabilitatea pentru posibilele accidente cauzate de folosirea informatiei din acest document. S-ar putea sa existe descrieri care nu sunt conforme
cu din teren. Daca aveti comentarii sau sugestii legate de acest document va rog trimiteti-le la adresa nicolas.ecoffet@hotmail.fr

Materials (bolts and tops) : Vladone Popa and Ionut Manzatu


Busteni - Climbing Topo Guide v1.0 Sport climbing around Brasov, part B September 2008 by Nicolas

Notations Symbols
! Long distance between protections / Distante lungi intre asigurari Sunny crag / Faleza insorita Top
# Isn't worth the effort / Nu merita efortul Belay in a multi pitch route / Regrupare
* Very interesting route / Traseu interesant Shady crag / Faleza umbroasa
Grass or small bush / Iarba sau boschet
p Projec / Proiect Rain protected crag / Faleza protejata impotriva ploii
Tree (forest) / Copac (padure)
g Route with glued holds / Traseu cu prize lipite
c Route with chipped or drilled holds / Traseu cu prize cioplite Overhanging routes crag / Faleza cu trasee in surplomba Anchor / Ancora (spit)
o Almost the whole route is overhanging / Traseu surplombant Piton
Vertical routes crag / Faleza cu trasee verticale
s Almost the whole route is a slab / Traseu fata cazuta
Slabe routes crag / Faleza cu trasee de placa
Grading Scales
UIAA French USA Australia

5- 4a 5.5 15
5 4b 5.6 16
5+ 4c 5.7 17
6- 5a 5.8 18
6 5b 5.9 19
6+ 5c 5.10a 20
6+/7- 6a 5.10b
7- 6a+ 5.10c 21
7 6b 5.10d
7+ 6b+ 5.11a 22
7+/8- 6c 5.11b
8- 6c+ 5.11c 23
8 7a 5.11d 24
8+ 7a+ 5.12a 25
8+/9- 7b 5.12b 26
9- 7b+ 5.12c 27
9 7c 5.12d
9+ 7c+ 5.13a 28
9+/10- 8a 5.13b 29
10- 8a+ 5.13c 30
10 8b 5.13d 31
10+ 8b+ 5.14a 32
10+/11- 8c 5.14b
11- 8c+ 5.14c
9a 5.14d Busteni

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to nicolas.ecoffet@hotmail.fr Page 2/4
Busteni - Climbing Topo Guide v1.0 Sport climbing around Brasov, part B September 2008 by Nicolas

Brasov Access : Busteni is situated on Dn1 the road


liking Brasov to Bucuresti. Once you to the city
ask your way to the sky slope. Park as close as
you can (the access is closed by a barier) CRAG
Predeal River bed

SKY SLOPE
Busteni Rock

Telecabin pole

Sinaia
5

Direction BUCURESTI
4

After you passed the barrierqnd the bridge go right to get to the
climbing wall.From here go up on the sky slope until you meet with
the dirty road. Keepgoing on that road that will leave the slope until
you meet the telecabine poles 4 and 5. From there follow the path
into the woods. Some orange crosses are showing the way.
You will get to a 1m3 rock in the middle of the path. Take left 5
Dry tooling wall meters after that rock. There, the path is very small and hard to
follow but if you go straight up for 200 meters you will see the crag
on your right.
Telecabin River
From the boulder you can also keep following the orange crosses.
You will reach the crag by going up into a river bed that is right of
the crag.

Brigde Forn the barrier to the crag it is a 35 minutes walk.

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to nicolas.ecoffet@hotmail.fr Page 3/4
Busteni - Climbing Topo Guide v1.0 Sport climbing around Brasov, part B September 2008 by Nicolas

1 Guvidu 6a+
2 Stravridu 6c
3 Macrou 7a East, 22m.
4 Do not try this at home 8a+ ? p
5 Tes dsires sont dsordres 8a c
6 Bah bah baksheesh 7c
7 A year in the mici 7b+
8 Tiparu 6b+
9 Loeuf raide 7b+
10 Carasu 7b
11 Bibanu 6c+
12 Rma 5b
13 Omida 5c
14 Limax 6a
15 Piranha 5a

1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Description : 13
The crag is a steep wall of conglomerate, in the shade all day long.
Most of the holds are pockets and the rock stays dry even when it is
14 15
raining. All routes are with bolts and proper tops.

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to nicolas.ecoffet@hotmail.fr Page 4/4