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Chapter - II

Review of Literature
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 CHAPTER -II
REVIEW OF LITERATURE

2.1INTRODUCTION

Review of literature is an important step in the empirical research. This will

enable the researcher to find out the research gaps where he can concentrate on for his
research. The following are some of the reviews of the studies previously undertaken
by the researchers' world over. The reviews are classified as Indian studies and the
studies undertaken abroad.

AMDT, JOHN, (1964)1 in his research enrich says that an important outcome
of the interplay between satisfaction and positive word of mouth may be pointed out
as the positive communication about a textile shop, which will always act as a
'reference' among consumers with regard to both routine and special buying. This
enables the retailers to fortify their market share ever in the midst of keen
competition.' A favorable word of mouth communication increases the probability of
purchase while exposure to unfavorable comments decreases the probability'. Facility
for transaction by credit cards can be pointed out as the recent addition to the
parameters to judge the functional features of textile shop.

ASSAEL, H, (1990)2 points out those textile manufacturers occasionally

introduce new texture, design, style and colour in order to comply with the
requirements of those consumers who are sensitive to novelty and variety. This trend
is very prominent among manufacturers of readymade garments like jeans, shirts,
kid's wear and `churidar'. It is reasonable to note that consumers are generally
resistant to new textile products if they are costly. 'Price promotion is a short-term
discount offered to get consumers to try a product' Textile manufacturers occasionally
introduce new texture, design, style and colour in order to comply with the
requirements of those consumers who are sensitive to novelty and variety.

1 Amdt.John. Role of product related conversations in the diffusion of a New Product, Journal of
Marketing Research, August 1964, p-291.
2
Assael, Hentry, Marketing Principles and Strategies, The Dryden Press Chicago, 1990, p-316.

21
 AVINASH MAYEKARV (2008)3 presented marketing challenges and
opportunities of textile retailers of both within and outside India. He pointed out that
the marketing challenges before Indian textile industry are immature market due to
unawareness and consumer behaviour, voluminous products, understanding customer
needs absence of research and development facilities and new product developments,
lack of support from government, secretive markets .i.e., no information available and
higher cost. He also highlighted the following marketing opportunities for Indian
textile industry. Higher demand for table covers and napkins, Eco friendly carry bags
decorative wall coverings, decorative floor coverings, synthetic leather substrate, new
product developments i.e., innovative market segments, roof liners, interlinings,
Insulation material, hygiene products, wipes, cotton pads and uniforms.

According to BELCH, E.G, (1993),4 often, consumers show much confidence

on the reliability of news paper advertising. The extent of information brought by
newspaper advertisement and its replication will enable them to take the appropriate
buying decision. 'Most consumers rely heavily on newspapers not only for news,
information and entertainment but also for information to make consumption
decisions'. The vernacular edition outpaces the national dailies in terms of circulation.
Owing to the high literacy rate, advertisements in such dailies tend to have a greater
impact on readers. Considering the impact and coverage, many consumer products are
advertised through newspapers. Textile dealers adopt consumer promotion schemes
such as price-off, gift schemes, incentives, etc. They consider newspaper advertising
an ideal method for giving popularity to such schemes among the target consumers.
During festival seasons, textile dealers opt for newspapers as the source of their
advertisement for the sake of further influencing their patrons.

BESS, V.0, (1960)5 has pointed out that choice of fabric depends on the
community in which one lives. The fabrics preferred by those who live in urban
centers are generally different from those of semi urban or rural people .The
community we live in helps to determine the people we know, the things we do, the

3
Avinash, Mayekarv [2008], www.technopak.com

4 Belch, A.Michael and Belch E, George., Advertising and promotion .1rwin Homewood, Boston,
1993, p463,506.

5 Bess, V.0, 1960. The dress, Bennet company Inc., 1960, p-47.

22
places where we go, and therefore the cloths we wear. In Kerala, the community
assigns certain dress codes, which are substantiated by religious and cultural
doctrines. Hence, consumers in textile market choose fabrics to cope with the dress
codes.

In tune with this respect, consumers evaluate the fabric from the perspective of
their age and social role. Accordingly, the elderly people and public servants try to
avoid fabrics with glittering texture. One wants to look as old as he is and so he
chooses cloths that are suitable for his age group. In other words, it can be remarked
that one may change a lot in his lifespan and his preference for fabric changes too,
One's social role is changing too and so Is the figure with the passage of time. Hence,
once needs clothing to fit his changing figure and to suit the changing role.

BIERSTEDT,ROBERT (1964)6 remarks "Human behavior itself is so

enormously varied, so delicately complex, so obscurely motivated that many people
despair of finding valid generalizations to explain and feelings of human beings
despair, that is, of the very possibility of constructing a science of human behavior"

BILTON, T, (1996)7 suggests that since clothing is considered as a basic

necessity, next to food and shelter, it exhibits the features of that resembles more with
consumer products. The communicative property of clothing reveals the economic or
social status. Clothing has also been categorized as a status symbol product. While
clothing is viewed from the perspective of both consumer product and status symbol
product, the economic status of every individual consumer has a role to play on its
purchase and use. If clothing is considered as a consumer product, the economic
status of consumers can influence the volume and frequency of its purchase. And if it
is considered a status symbol product, the consumers' economic status can influence
several aspects like price, brand and even the preference for textile shops. Capitalism
has generated a consumer revolution as well as an industrial one. 'The dominance of
wage and the rate of large scale production draw the masses into a world of
commodities'. And they are found to be keen in rating clothing or garments to match
with their economic status and to generate maximum economic gain.

6 Bierstedt, Robert., The social order, Mac millan publishing co., New yark, 1983, p-158.

7 Bilton,T, Introductory Sociology, Mac Millan Press Ltd ., London, 1996, p- 103.

23
 BITNER, J.M, (1992)8 believes that consumers expect satisfactory service
from the sales people of the preferred textile shop. They may evaluate the service of
the sales force in terms of many attributes like demonstration of different varieties of
product, clearing consumers' doubts particularly with regard to a new brand or
texture, and suggestion regarding fashion trends.' There are so few objective criteria
by which consumers can judge the quality of the services they receive'. Based on
quality of service, consumers perceive a textile shop as an ideal one.

BROOK, Y, (1995)9 explains that the word fashion is mainly used to refer to
the clothing's style of appearance' (Brook, Y, 1995).1t has a direct implication on
novelty in texture, colour, design and print, which make clothing or garment stylish or
fashionable though fashion is widely used in textiles, it must be understood that the
influence of fashion is applicable, in other articles such as household utensils,
ornaments, and vehicles, etc. 'Fashion essentially involves changes; there can be
fashions in almost any human activity from medical treatment to pop music'.

CAROLINE, E. W, (1960)1 points out that projecting one's self through

clothing is a matter of profound significance while choosing the cloth one
wears.Besides, the consumer is interested in knowing the fiber content, which
ultimately affects the durability, appearance, comfort and suitability for laundering of
fabrics. 'Clothes made from each kind of fiber have their own distinctive
characteristics, which may be regarded as the inherent quality of the fiber used'. So
the specialty of fabrics can be claimed as the specialty of the fiber, to a considerable
extent. The dynamism of human behavior kindles the spirit of change or novelty. This
is reflected very vividly in preferences towards apparels. 'Rationally, no individual
lets himself exhibit one and the same in the eyes of others'.

CARSON, B, (1960)" highlights that the everyday clothes of an individual

are probably the most important clothes since others see him in them most of the
times' (Carson, B, 1960).Comfort and attractiveness are the two basic norms observed
by people while choosing fabrics for their daily use. Whatever be the occasion, one

8 Bitner Jo. Marry., service caps-The impact of physical surroundings' on customers and employees,
Journal of marketing April., 1992 p-56.
9
Brook ,Young., A Recurring Cycle of fashion ,Allen-new york, 1995 p-107.

1 Caroline.E.W., The cloth you buy and make, Mc Graw-hill book company, 1960, p-28.
" Carson , Bytra., How look and dress, Mc Graw-hill book company, 1960, p-14.

24
 may like to be looked extra nice and hence special clothing may be preferred for
special occasion. 'A special occasion gives several clues to how to dress up'. If the
occasion is dressier, the role of specialty fabrics seems to be very prominent and the
clothes to be worn on such occasion are planned or selected well in advance.

CAVENDER.D.F. et.al. (1996)12 say that research enhances U.S industry

responsiveness to consumer demand for apparel products in the global marketplace. A
model of cross-national acceptance for U.S textile and apparel products among
international consumer markets was refined and tested with consumer markets in
Mexico, China, and Korea.

An assessment of current export activities and information needs of U.S.

textiles and apparel manufacturers and retailers provided insight into foreign market
potential and market and market information needs for selected markets worldwide.
Resulting actionable data may be used to develop product and marketing strategies
that will enhance the ability of U.S. firms to position their products for specific
international markets, thereby increasing global market share and improving
international competitive positions of U.S. firms. Hence, the National Textile Center
(NTC) mission, to provide the research base for the continuing viability and
competitiveness of the U.S. textile complex, is enhanced by this research.

CHURCHILL PETER, & SUDHARSEN, (2003)13 remark that the

consumer buying process includes different types of decision making which ranges
from routine to limited to extensive decision-making. Consumers are most likely to
use extensive decision-making when the product is important, the price is high, the
product is complex or unfamiliar, and there are many brands to compare. Once again
a guide for assessing quality visually could expedite the process of decision-making
for online consumers of clothing textile products. Interactive agents that make
purchase recommendations could assist the online consumer when weighing different
purchase.

12 Cavender, D. F. et.al., 119961, "Enhancing Demand Responsive Marketing in the U.S. Textile and
Apparel Industry:", National Textile Center Annual Report, November.
13
Churchill,GAjR&Peter, J.P. (1998) Marketing Creating value for customers, Beston. Irwin,
McGraw-Hill, p.28.

25
 CRISPELL, D, (1994)14 points out that education enables peoples to acquire
lucrative jobs. 'The more educated person, the more likely he is well paid and has an
admired and reputed position'. People who hold admired positions in the society like
to be perceived differently so as to project a distinctive image. They prefer products
or services that symbolize their status. In the textile market, the premium brands are
perceived as symbolic expressions of status. Kerala being a state of high literacy,
educational status plays a vital role on the behavioral aspects of consumers in the
textile market. It influences many aspects like selection of colour, fashion adoption,
quality assessment, brand preference, and price.

CONNOR, 0.MICHAEL, (1987)15 suggests that the sellers consider the

location of their shop as ideal from the perspective of its access to other facilities such
as transport, banking, recreation, boarding and lodging. 'Good location is a
combination of factors including accessibility and nearness to suppliers'. This has a
special relevance if floating population mainly represents the target consumers. As
floating population perceive shopping as an auxiliary goal, they prefer those selling
outlets, which have easy access to other facilities.

COWAN, M.L AND JUNGERMAN, M.E, (1980)16 remark that on the basis
of specialty, fibers may be classified into natural, animal and man-made. Natural
fibers are mainly constituted by 'cellulose fibers' which have their origin from
'cellulose of plant cells'. 'Cellulose is a complex compound made up of carbon,
hydrogen and oxygen, with the molecular formula of (C6 H10 05) Cotton, hemprame
and flex are the commonly found cellulose fibers. Fiber strength, fitness, Spiral or
convulsion, moisture absorbance and easy care are the outstanding qualities of cotton
fabrics. At the same time, water vapor from the body can easily pass through the
cotton fabrics. This facilitates evaporation. Which makes cotton clothes an ideal
summer wear. Extra-long staple cotton is used when fabrics of fine count and high
strength are required. 'These are found in finely woven fabrics such as lawn,
organdie, voile, satin, hand kerchief fabrics, etc'. 'Cotton fabrics are acceptable for

14 Crispell, D, 1994 - A Behavioural Analysis Mc Graw Hill book company London, p-141.

15 Connor, 0. Michael. Regulatory Changes Fails to reduce for site seekers site selection, Handbook
April, 1987, p-264.

16 Cown, M.L and Jungerman, M.E., Introduction To Textile, D.B Tharapurvala and Sons and Co
Bombay, 1980, p-264.

26
 any occasion and are now highly fashionable as well as utilitarian'. The inhabitants of
Kerala have a passion for cotton fabric, due to their quality as comfortable wear.
Shirting, dhotis, saris, churidar, kids wears, 'T'-shirts, bed spreads, bathing towels and
sanitary clothing is the important types of cotton fabrics preferred by people from all
socio-economic strata. Wool and silk are obtained from animals and are therefore
called animal fibers. The distinguishing feature of animal fiber is that it contains
proteins; so, it is also called 'protein fibers'. Wool is soft to touch and presents a
fuzzy appearance while silk has a luxurious soft texture. A fabric made of wool
produces sensation of sight, touch and even of smell. A silk fiber is equal in strength
to steel of comparable diameter. 'This strength has been utilized in the past in such
varied articles as hosiery and parachute clothes'.

DELLA, B, ALBERT, J & LONDON, L, D, (1993)17 pinpoint that

developing 'shop loyalty' can be concerned as the culmination of shop preference.'
Shop loyalty refers to the consumers' inclination to patronize a given store during a
specific period time'. It refers to customers' tendency to repurchase from a particular
shop during a given period. By virtue of shop loyalty, Marketers establish rapport
with customers.

DIMINGO, E, (1983)18 Dress materials of teenagers can be identified as a

'fashion sensitive segment' in the textile market. Western clothes like jeans, short
tops. 'Miniskirts, frocks, 'T- shirts, etc have become part and parcel of the lifestyles
of the teenagers. Kids wear' is highly fashion oriented in character. This has a special
relevance in Kerala, as the Keralites take extreme care in dressing up their children in
relation to another one.' Positioning refers to a product's image in relation to directly
competitive products'. A positively positioned shop will always be the destination of
the prospective buyer as and when he goes out for shopping. In other words, positive
positioning generates a preference for the shop. Variety rating can be pointed out as
the fundamental criterion for developing preference for a textile shop. Variety rating
denotes the process of assessing of products available at the textile shop in terms of
the 'depth and width of each product line'. It is reflected in the form of a wide variety
of clothing having different quality, style, texture, design, colour and price range.

17 Dellae, Bitta J. Alberts & London David., Consumer behavior, McGraw-Hill international Edn.,
new York, 1993, p-548.

18 Dimingo, Edward., The fine art of positioning, Journal of business strategy, March April 1983,
p-34.

27
 According to DONEGAN, P, (1987)," the location of a shop is capable of
reflecting the characteristic features of the consumers in the target market. A shop
located in an urban area has a different image from the shop located in a sub-urban or
rural area, because the demographic and psychographic framework of consumers is
different in urban, sub-urban and rural market segments, and one can rate the selling
outlets. The rating can be done based on the type of products handled, variety for
selection, price and image of shop. 'Thus, for some retailers, good location means
access to dense urban markets; to other, the ideal is a rural site that yields high per-
customer purchases'

DU PLESSIS & ROUSSEAU, CHURCHILL & PETER, (1990)20 reveal

that the definition covers the Consumer buying process as well as the forces that
shape it. These forces include internal forces such as needs, past experiences,
personality, learning and attitudes as well as external forces that include social,
marketing, and situational influences. For relatively expensive products and services,
purchase decisions are the result of a detailed process that may include an extensive
information search, brand comparisons and evaluations, and other activities. Other
purchase decisions are more incidental and may result from little more than seeing a
product prominently displayed at a discount price in a store. In the case of clothing
textile products various studies point out that the intrinsic properties such as the
physical features of fabrics which include fibers, fabrics and finishes, rather than the
extrinsic properties such as price, brand name, packaging and hangtag information,
shape a consumer's perception of product quality, which has a pronounced effect on
the eventual decision-making and buying behavior.

EVANS, J AND BERMAN.B, (1986)21 explain that from the perception of

sellers, the locational advantage of selling outlets has two dimensions. Each
perception has its own impact on the selling or purchasing of goods and services. A
seller may perceive an ideal location for his shop if it is capable of attracting a
sizeable quantum of customer traffic. The potential of the location to attract customer
19
Donegan, Priscillar., Progressive Grocess May 1987, p-152.
20
Du Plessis & Rousseau, Churchill & Peter, 1990). Consumer behavior- A South African
perspective, Sourthem book publishers, p-38.

21
Evans, J and Berman.B, (1986)., Barry., Retail Management A strategic Approach Mac Millon
Publishing co., New York, p-228.

28
 traffic depends upon its proximity to the various channels of customer traffic.
'Retailers must evaluate potential location carefully, especially retailers of services
and retailers who rely on heavy customer traffic for businesses. An ideal location can
be identified as a geographical point of place where both the routine and floating
customers have the proximity to visit the shop or the vendor. Location dictates the
limited geographic trading area from which a store must draw its customers.

FERRELL, 0. C AND PRIDE, M. W, (1989)22 suggest that perception of

consumers about the advantage of selling unit can be influenced by demographic and
psychographic factors. Among the demographic factors, income and occupation are
the core factors that influence the perception. Consumers who represent high-income
group prefer selling outlet located in urban centers because they can afford the price
quoted by such selling outlet located in cities/urban centers as they consider that
shopping from such selling outlets is a way for exhibiting their status in the society.
By acknowledging this, markets design promotion campaigns, particularly
advertisement with regard to a selling outlet. 'The location and demographic
characteristics of people are the advertising targets, because the various media appeal
to a particular demographic group in a particular location'.

FERRELL, 0.0 AND PRIDE. W, (1999)23 connote that the textile retailers
are subject to a major criticism of not offering product warranty. The type of warranty
a firm provides can be a critical issue for buyers. Consumers perceive that readymade
garments are superior in quality. The colour of many brands of readymade garments
gets faded within a very short period of time. Its accessories also are not long -lasting.
This causes mental agony to consumers, as they might have paid a high price for the
garments. The provision for replacement can be considered as an attractive feature for
product warranty. Creating goodwill is the net result of such a provision. Provision
for replacement has a special relevance when a product is introduced in the textile
market. Consumers will buy new products on an experimental basis. If it is not found
worthy, they like to get it replaced. So the provision for replacement enables the

22
Ferrell,O.C, and Pride W.M., Marketing concepts and strategies, Houghten Mifflin Co; Bostan,
1989, p-118.

23 Ferrell, 0.C, and Pride W.M., Marketing concepts and strategies, Houghten Mifflin Co; Bostan,
1999, pp.301, 402.

29
retailer to have a feedback from the customers about the defect of the products. Thus,
he can direct the manufacturer of the product to take appropriate rectification
measures. This has a special relevance in the textile market as the consumers
knowingly or unknowingly expose their attitude when the purchase decision is made.
The identifiable dimensions of attitude can be listed as preferences for products,
shops, brands and purchase pattern. In the textile market, the price of products can be
pointed out as a major element, which is influenced by the economic status of
consumers.

When consumers perceive clothing as a means for non-verbal communication

of their status, they attach high relevance to price. 'The price sometimes determines
the degree of status associated with the ownership of the product'. From this
perspective, it can be stated that consumers may prefer to have clothing with the
price-tag that can comply with their requirements ranging from status symbol to
situational relevance.

FLUGEL, J.F, (1930)24 remarks that catering to the requirement of

distinctive appearance he/she would like to prefer clothing of different styles on
different occasion. Fashionable clothing can be considered as a medium for projecting
different images of individuals. And so, there is a passion for fashion in the textile
market.

FRANK, RONALDE AND LODHAL (1969)25 say that it is pertinent to

distinguish between the `decision-maker' and the user of products, when the purchase
is made for the family unit. When the user and the decision-maker are different, the
former influences the latter. The extent of influences exercised by the user on the
decision-maker seems to be very important while purchasing textiles, because the user
may have strong perceptions about the clothing or garments to be worn by him. 'The
dimension which seem the most obvious in determining the relative influence are
discriminate, technical know-how, ability outlet, price-expensiveness, satisfaction-
arising from benefits, values, and enjoyment of the product' . The major aspects of the

24 Flugel, J.F. The psychology of cloths, Hogerth publications New York, 1930, p-17,41.

25 Frank, Rronalde and Lodhal (1969), Purchasing behavior and Personnel attributes, Journal of
advertising Research, 1963, P-78.

30
perception of the user may be related to colour, design, brand and fashion. Therefore,
it is quite natural that the members of the family give suggestions or opinions about
clothing or garments when they are purchased by a member or a group of members in
the family other than the users.

GEISTFELD, SPROLES AND BADENHOP (1977)26 developed a similar

but more refined hierarchy of intrinsic product characteristics .They proposed three
levels similar in concept to Ryans first and second strata. Level A is an abstract level
with multidimensional product characteristics that are general and reflect the overall
character of a product, incorporating the more concrete characteristics associated with
levels B and C.McCullough and Mories (1980) identified the multidimensional nature
of overall characteristics such as durability, revealing that the quality of a textile
product is not defined by the measurements of one property ,but rather is a composite
of the end use properties used in a model for the quality grading of textile products.
These are level a characteristics, using the scheme of Level B product characteristics,
according to this scheme, would include seam strength, tear and tensile strength.

GEORGE.W, (1946)27 says, India is probably the first of all countries that
perfected weaving with gold brocade and filmy muslin. These skills have been carried
out in the cultural settings by the traditional weavers.' The traditional textiles of India
reveal the background of a rich culture that gives artistic shape and form to the ideas
and ideals which inspires the lives of the people. The global reputation of Indian
textiles might be one of the contributory factors that had enabled the Indian merchants
to establish trade links with the Jews and the Arabs. The Dacca Muslin, the Cashmere
Shawl, the Gujarat Patola and the Bandthanies, the Benarese and the Surat Brocade
are some of the textile products of the ancient India with exemplary appearance and
super-fine quality, which had always been great attractions for global merchants. The
economic history of India unveils that production and marketing of textiles has been
the provider of livelihood for Indians.

26
Geistfeld, L.V Sproles and Badenhop S.E (1977), Advanced in consumer research. Association of
Consumer Research, Vol.4, pp.302-307.

27 George,Walt., Delhi art Exhibition, Edward Arnold and Co, London, 1946, p-5.

31
 GILBERT, D.T AND KRULL, D.S, (1988)28 in their research articles say
that in the textile market, fashion adoption trend is influenced by the educational
background of consumers. Young consumers tend to be more fascinated by the
fashion dynamism. 'The degree of education of young people is found to lead them to
be less conforming, open to less presence to follow different fashion trends, and to be
more confident on purchase' This has resulted in the type of western style in clothing
by overlooking even the cultural heritage.

GOPALAKRISHNAN AND ARPITA NAYAK (2008)29 emphasized the

quality and testing of quality of textile goods at various stages of production for
successful marketing processes. For every industry or business, to get increased sales
and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies, it is important to maintain
a level of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the
initial stages of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For
textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and
standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, surface designs and the
final finished garment products. However quality expectations for export are related
to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets. There are a number of factors
on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as - performance,
reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be
defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.

GRAHAM, R.J, (1990)3 in his article says that there is an upcoming trend
among the young people to achieve new horizons of education. This has increased the
number of 'white collar job aspirants'. 'The trend towards more white-collar job
places emphasis on the purchase of formal style of clothing'. This has become
instrumental to developing many new concepts in the textile market including the
emergence and popularization of readymade garments. There are two types of man-
made fabrics, namely, thermo-plastic and non thermo-plastic. The former is soft and
pliable while the latter is neither soft nor melting with application of heat. These

28
Gilbert, D.T and Krull, D.S, Seeing Less and Knowing More, Journal of Personality and Social
Psychology, 1998, p.193.

29 Gopalakrishnan and Arpita Nayak (2008) "Defects in garments http://www.fibre2 fashion .com.

39 Consumer Education will be marketing edge of new decade, marketing news, May, 1990, p-17.

32
fibers are obtained from chemical processes and hence they are also known as
'chemical or synthetic fibers'. Polyester, nylon, Dacron are the most commonly found
varieties of man-made or synthetic fiber. 'These fibers can be made into fabrics
suitable for many needs and the desirable characteristics depend on the amount of
fiber present, the weave or knit, and the finish used in manufacture and garment
construction'.

GRANZIN, E.K AND MILLER E.K, (1979)31 suggest that retailers can
consider the shop loyalty of consumers to be an added advantage to ensure customer
retention. So the shop loyalty of customers can effectively be utilized as marketing
input to meet the competition.' Loyalty segmentation can also be successfully applied
to retail store customers'. It seems to be more result-fetching, if the retailer is able to
identify the segment-wise distribution of loyal customers for arranging merchandize
that can comply with the specific requirements of such customers.

GUPTA, S.L AND PALSUMITHRA, (2001)32 consider that culture can be

broadly classified into internal material culture and external / internal material culture.
The former can again be categorized into 'cognitive component'- which is represented
by the knowledge that one acquires, and 'normative component'- which is constituted
by values and norms. 'The external material culture gets reflected in the outward life
of a person and it is manifested through clothing, eating, aesthetic, etc'. Culture can
be split up into several subsets, which can be termed subcultures. 'Subcultures are
groups in a culture that exhibit a characteristic behavior pattern sufficient to
distinguish one from the other group within the same culture' Geographic, economic,
religious and political demarcations can also be observed across subcultures.

GALBRAITH, (1981)33 concluded that consumer surveys reveal the ways in

which consumer expectations regarding the performance of textile products have not
been realized. Most often physical performance problems have been cited. Observing
defects reported in the past and observing factors consumers emphasize in the

31 Granzin, E.Kent and Miller E, Kenneth., Simultaneous loyalty and benefit Segmentation of
retailer store Customers, Journal of retailing, 1979, p-47.
32
Gupta, S.L and Palsumithra, Consumer behavior an Indian Perspective Text and Cases.
S.Chand and sons, New Delhi, 2001, p-592.

33 Galbraith, (1981) Consumer Comments on Textile and Apparel Quality, American society for
quality control, Textile and Needle Trades Division proceedings Milwaukee, WI:American society
for quality Control, Vol.9, pp.94-98.

33
purchase situation are ways of determining consumer expectations regarding textile
product quality. It is also necessary to study the quality expectations of consumers and
to determine attributes they expect. Quality expectations may vary across product
classifications, and requirements for a broad product class. For example, a Shaker-knit
sweater may have different than those for a broad product class of sweaters (also
including, for example, Shetland sweaters). Once the attributers are identified,
products can be engineered for a successful, including post purchase consumer
behavior.

HAIR, FJ, JR, BUSH, F.RAND STEM.L.W (1977)34 suggests that

consumers give much importance to the 'functional features 'of a textile shop while
they perceive it as a preferable one. Usually, an image of the textile shop is being
created in the perception of the prospective buyers. In fact, the image of a textile shop
created based on its functional features has integration with the consumers' self-
image.' Consumers' self image and store's image influence where people shop, with
choices being made of stores that possess images which are similar to the images that
consumers perceive of themselves' This will lead to shop loyalty which is an added
advantage to meet the competition.

HILDEGUNN KYVIK NORDA'S (2004)35 says that the objective of his

paper is to assess the likely impact of liberalization, taking into account the recent
technological and managerial developments in the sector, and focusing on recent
developments in supply chain management in the clothing and textiles sector. The
study starts with a discussion of the structure of the textile and clothing industries,
focusing on technology and industrial organization, and discusses the Agreement on
Textile and Clothing (ATC) and the progress so far in quota elimination. He analyses
the ATC countries' trade patterns in the sector since 1995, followed by an assessment
of the likely changes in the sector during post ATC trade patterns. And he concludes
that this is no doubt that both China and India will gain market shares in the Eruopean
Union, the United States and Canada to a significant extent, but the expected surge in
market share may be less than anticipated, as proximity to major markets assumes

34 Hair, F, Joseph, Jr Bush, F, Ronald and Stern, The self-image store-Image Matching Process-An
Empirical Tests, Journal of business, January 1977, p-50.
35
Hildegunn kyvik nordas. The Global Textile And Clothing Industry In the Post Agreement On
Textile And Clothing, World Trade Organization, Geneva, Switzerland, 2004.

34
increasing economic significance and tariffs are increasingly restraining trade due to
the fact that products cross borders several times. Furthermore, other developing
countries are catching up with China in terms of unit labour costs in the textile and
clothing sector and china has of yet not shown competitive strength in the design and
fashion segments of the markets.

JAMES, U.M AND ZEREN, L, (1981)36 point out that consumers'

preferences for branded products can be suggested as another factor in the textile
market, which is subject to the influence of their economic status. Branded clothing or
garments are often considered to be indicators of the social as well as economic status
of the wearer. 'Brands sometimes simplify shopping, guarantee quality and allow self-
expression'. In the textile market of Kerala, marketers have introduced premium
brands of clothing and garments, aiming at high income group of consumers for
matching with their requirements of creating a 'distinctive image'. Decisions on shops
from where textiles are to be bought are also be influenced by the economic status of
consumers. In the textile market of Kerala, exclusive show rooms of premium
branded textile products are floated in cities and some of the important towns.
Generally, consumers who represent the high-income group will prefer exclusive
show rooms. The distinctive features of such showrooms, like in-shop facilities,
acceptance of credit cards, and the elite group of fellow customers will provide a
shopping atmosphere reconciling with the status of such consumers. On the other
hand, consumers who represent the middle and low-income groups prefer to buy
textiles from general cloth vendors. It is worthwhile to note that door-to-door cloth
vendors and itinerant retailers are also preferred by consumers of these income
groups. Credit facility given by such type of vendors can motivate consumers for
purchasing textiles from them.

JENKINS AND DICKEY (1976)37 in proposal fits within Ryan's third

stratum. The selection of garments is a personal process influenced by both external
and internal factors. External factors include social factors as well as economic and
other considerations. Internal factors such as a consumer's personal tastes and

36
James, U.M and Zeren , Introduction to Marketing Management, Homeward Irwin, 1981, p-35.

37 Jenkins,M.C., & Dickey,L.E (1976). Consumer types based on evaluate criteria underlying clothing
Decisions, Home economics Research Journal, Vol.4, pp.150-162.

35
 preferences determine what is intrinsically desirable. Underlying consumer
preferences for specific garments are personal values. As the definition of quality
developed in the previous section indicates, consumer values are critical in the
selection of garments. Values determine the evaluative criteria used by consumers in
selecting garments. Although the objective quality of a garment is constant, the
perception of the quality of a garment may differ on the basis of individual
consumers' values influencing their evaluations of the garment. Different values lead
individuals to place varying importance or determination on a given attribute (service
characteristic) as an evaluative criterion. Individual differences in value systems in no
way negate the fact that there are many consumers with very similar values. Similarly,
quality judgments are not universal; that is, an individual consumer forms his or her
own judgment regarding the extent to which a specimen yields a given characteristic.

KUEGLER. J AND T.THOMAS (2000)38 in above the line' and 'Below the
line' suggest the dichotomist classification of advertising media. Above the line
denotes 'the five media' namely press, radio, television outdoor and cinema which
pay commission to advertising agencies; 'the rest such as direct mail, exhibition, point
of sale display ads, print and trade literature, and all kinds of miscellaneous media
constitute below the line advertisement'. As an advertising medium, website stands
above these media. 'It is relatively inexpensive and fast, delivering the message with
colour, sound and motion in a split second anywhere in the world at a fraction of the
cost of most other media'. Textile marketers promote or popularize a
product/brand/shop or consumer beneficial scheme through advertising. They mainly
resort to 'above the line' strategy by using media like press, television, radio, posters
and billboards/banners.

LAMBIN, J.J, (1995)39 remarks that the behavior of consumers at the market
place, based on their social status, can be considered as the outward expression of
their attitude. To state more specifically, the social status of an individual can have an
influence on his purchasing habit. 'What (brand), how much (quantity), how (different
ways of purchase), where (the distribution network), when (knowledge of situational

38 Kuegler,J. and T. Thomas., Web advertising and marketing, Prentice Hall of India New Delhi,
2001, p-6.

39 Lambin, J.Jacquies, Strategic Marketing, A European Approach, Mc Graw Hill Book, New York,
1995, p-148.

36
 factors), and consumption opportunities as well influence purchase and repurchase'.
Since clothing is perceived as a 'status reflector' of the wearer, its consumption is
largely influenced by the attitudinal framework of individuals.

MANILAL, M.K (2002)4 points out the National Household Survey on

Markets for textiles and Clothing was initiated by the Textile Committee of the
Government of India in 2001, and its report was published in December 2002. The
survey focused on the task of collecting and analyzing the information about the
current purchase of textiles by the house. It also intended to assess the effect of
various factors like income, price, area, gender, fabric, etc., on the consumer demand
and ascertain the shift in demand on account of change in consumer preference. The
survey reveals that the textile industry has three sectors of market, namely, the
household sector, the non-household sector, (including institutional, medical and
technical textiles), and the export sector. It has been put forward by the survey that the
proportionate share of consumption of these sectors is 60 per cent, 21 per cent and
19 per cent respectively, of the total production of cloth in the country. And it has
been put forward by the survey that among the various textile products, the blended
ones enjoy a high demand in the domestic market.

MARTINEAU, PIERRE, (195-41

5) explain that consumer evaluates the status
of a textiles shop by rating different attributes like specialty in products, location,
price range, and accordingly asses the 'shop personality. If the shop personality
matches with their social status, consumers develop a preference for the textile shop
concerned. There is a force operating in that determination of the store's customer
body, besides the obvious functional factors of location, price range, merchandize
selection. 'This force is the store's personality or image, the way the storage defined
in the shopper's mind'.

MISRA (1993)42 sets forth two major observations. The first is that real
problems of India's textile are sectoral (structural). He shows that there have been
peculiarly Indian linkages among and within sectors in the continuous textile

40
Manilal, MK., The Kerala state textile corporation-An evaluate study Ph.D thesis (unpublished)
University of Kerala, Thiruvanandapuram, 2002
41
Martineau, Pierre, The Personality of the Retail shop, Harward Business Review, January-February
1958, pp.50, 69.

42 Misra t1993], India's Textile Sector: A Policy Analysis, Sage Publications: New Delhi, pp.278.

37
 production process, and these linkages are an inherent part of the inefficient
production structure.

The modern (organized) sector has co-existed with the relatively backward
(unorganized or decentralized) sector; textile spinning and processing have been
carried on exclusively by the modern sector, while the weaving process has been done
by the backward sector. At the same time within the backward sector itself there has
been a dualism in the weaving process where power-looms compete with handlooms
(representing different degrees of backwardness).The second observation is that this
peculiar Indian production structure was largely created and developed because of the
heavy doses of state intervention which have continued unabated even since the mid-
1980s when the government began promoting economic liberalization. To analyze the
problems he has presented, Misra sets out three specific questions: (1) What are the
main problems and interests that have determined on the structure, growth, and
evolution of the textile sector as a whole? (3) What lessons can be derived from past
experience in formulating new policy options for India's textile sector.

According to MOLI.P.KOSHY, SURESH.N (2007),43 the clothing as a basic

necessity has transformed into a product also reveals the person's personality and
status. So the textile retailers are compelled to change their way of doing things in a
more customized manner. Purchasing goods according to the changing trends and
customer preferences is the most important and most difficult problem the retailer is
facing. The retailers should be aware of the latest fashion, designs and material and
must put those goods in their inventory at the right time. So he is forced to be in the
buying market to know the latest trends and price fluctuations. Due to stiff
competition, installments, whole sale-retail concept and more players in the market,
the retail merchants are forced to reduce their margins and procurement of stocks at
competitive rates has become all the more important. Consumer behaviour can be
defined as the thoughts, feelings, and activities (thus behavior patterns) of Consumers
and the influences on them, which proceed, determine and follow exchanges in the
acquisition of need-satisfying products, ideas and services.

43 Dr.Moli.P.Koshy, Suresh.N, Indian Journal of marketing, July, 2007, p37.

38
 MOTICHANDRA44 says that dresses were varied in nature, colour, and
purpose. Different types of dresses are worn on different occasions. The rich wore
luxurious dresses with ornaments. Textiles are fabrics or fabers from which textiles
are made. The word textile is derived from the Latin word texere meaning to "weave".
Although the term was originally applied to women fabrics, the present definition
includes fabrics made by other methods of construction, such as knitting, felting,
crocheting, and knotting etc.

PETER, WRIGHT, (1993)45 says that in the textile market, marketers

extensively use television advertisement to create attitudinal changes among
prospective consumers. The potential of this medium to cause attitudinal changes
depends on two factors, namely, the content of the message and the frequency of its
repetition. If the content of the message carries information that can convince the
desirability of a product class/brand/selling outlet over competing ones, it can shape
the attitude of consumers in favour of the product class / brand / selling outlet.

According to POLLARD, L.B. (196446 it is obvious that weather has a lot to

do with one's clothes' Seasonal specialties' can creep into the choice of fabrics. It can
be presumed that due to the tropical climate, the inhabitants of Kerala generally prefer
cotton-based fabrics. However, in order to cope with the requirements of widespread
monsoon, 'rain wear' made of polyester or nylon are also consumed especially by the
womenfolk. One may feel fit while he wears certain types of clothes. People may
develop the practice of expressing their true personality by wearing suitable and
beautiful clothes. Choosing fabrics has an implicit purpose of exposing the true
picture of one's own self or personality.

PRITO, REBACCA, (1962)47 classified consumers as innovators, early

adopters, early majority, late majority and laggards'. Innovators are the dynamic
consumers who are keenly interested in inducting new fashions. Early adaptors have a
moderate level of fancy for changing fashions. Early majority refers to the group of

Dr.Motichandra, Costumes textiles, Cosmetics and coiffure, Oriental publishers, Delhi 1973, p.58.
45
Peter, Wright., The cognitive Press- Mediating Acceptance of Advertising, Journal of Consumer
Research, Chicago, June 1993, p-95.
46
Pollard, L.B., Experience with clothing, Ginn Co ., New York, 1961, p14.
47 Prito, Rebacca Diffusion, Free Press New York, 1962, p-61.

39
 consumers who like to evaluate the functionality of fashion. Late majority may be the
conservatives who cannot be easily influenced by the waves of fashion. The laggards
seem to be the defenders, who deliberately close their eyes to the changing fashions.

REUSE, E, (1989)48 suggests that textile manufacturers and marketers are

vigilant in observing the frequency of changes in fashion so as to provide the
prospective buyers with clothing, which are currently in fashion. Generally, a
particular fashion is relevant for a particular point of time. When the masses begin to
throw away a fashion/style, the fashion becomes obsolete. Clothing with an obsolete
fashion is commonly referred to as 'out of fashion'. The concept of 'out of fashion
'operates in any of the elements of clothing such as texture/fabric, color, design, print,
finishing. 'Some people stay away from dressiness and retire to basic clothing'. Such
clothing has a high degree of functionality and seems to be fashionable over the time.
And thus it may be referred to as 'green fashion'. There are changes in Fashion,
which may affect consumer values and ethical aspects including priorities. This trend
in fashion may be termed 'fashion fatigue'. 'The theoretical framework that postulates
the diffusion of fashion may be called fashion adoption'. 'On the basis of adoption of
fashion, consumers may be in the textile market fashion revolution can occur if the
consuming publics have a zeal for it. When a style has the potential to obtain mass
backing from the public, it means that it can comply with many of the requirements of
the target consumers, namely novelty, comfort, economy and cultural harmony.

RICHARDSON, AND J.KOREHER (1973)49 remark that articles about

fashion are featured regularly in most national and local newspapers, and fashion is a
major subject area in most of the magazines for women'. The eye-catching coverage
of fashionable clothing inspires the consumers to focus on the product projected. It
does spadework in consumers' mind to create an interest in the product and ultimately
this will lead to purchase intention. One of the powerful devices for popularizing a
style is the mass media. Television ads strongly support a style or fashion for its
speedy diffusion. This has a strong impact on the attitude of consumers with regard to
information search for adoption of fashions. Demonstrations, exhibitions, and window

48 Resuse, Elizabeth, Understanding Fashion, Blackwell Scientific publications, Oxford 1989, p-102.

49 RichardSon & J. Koreher., Three Centuries of Women Dress Fashion A Quantitative Analysis,
New york, 1973, p-105.

40
displays resorted to by the retailers have activated the diffusion of innovative fashion
within a short span of time.

RAMASWAMY, (1980)5 suggests that excitement is defined as a positive

emotional state that consists of high levels of pleasure and arousal. Among many
determinants of shopping excitement, this study focuses on understanding how store-
level variables (store attributes) and apparel/textile products and consumer variables
(shopping motives & shopping involvement) affect the excitement that shoppers
experience at discount stores in international markets. The excitement inducing
factors of a particular retail format in international markets. Hence, it is important to
find out which factors induce shopping excitement among consumers at discount
stores first, and next, how apparel/textile product affects positive shopping response
of consumers at the particular store. The process which supports the planning &
buying of a range is therefore central to any retailers operations.

SACHIDANAND SAHAY (1973)51 affirms that Dress is the most eminent

form of peoples as well as racial life expression. It is at the same time our excellent
embodiment of their sense of beauty. For individual self expression no human activity
affords so much scope to the average men or women dress does or personal
adornments do."

SASI KALA, P.GANESAN, & HARIHARAN (2009)52 explain that the sale
of textile goods or merchandise usually for personal or household usage either from a
fixed location or from associating subordinated services is known as textile retailing.
Textile retailers usually refer to those groups of who purchases huge quantities of
textile products from manufacturers or importers either directly or through a
wholesaler and ultimately sells individual product item or small quantities to the
general customers in shops or stores. Textile whole sale and retail are terms closely
associated with the commercial aspect of textile industry. The practice of selling of
textile goods or merchandise to retailers, commercial institutions, or other

50
Ramaswamy.S, The cognitive Press- Mediating Acceptance of Advertising, Journal of Consumer
Research, Chicago, June 1993, p-95.

51 Dr.Sachidan and Sahay, Indian costumes and culture and ornament, Munshiram mohanlal (P)ltd
New Delhi, 1973, p.75.

52 Sasi kala, P.Ganesan, and Hariharan, Indian journal of textile, 2009, p-34.

41
professional business users or to other textile wholesalers is known as textile
wholesaling. Wholesalers often physically assemble sort and grade products in huge
quantities, then bulk and repack and redistribute them in smaller quantities. Without
doubt, the most important factor which makes a retailer successful is the appeal and
quality of the range of products that it stocks. Certainly there are other factors that
contribute to the success; the design of the attentiveness and knowledge ability of the
staff, the inventiveness of the marketing and promotions & appeal of the visual
merchandising. These are the things which although enhance the shopping experience
or the customers & perhaps ensure that they visit your store more than others, they do
not directly lead to a sale. The only thing will make a customer part with his cash is,
to the end, the product.

SCHIFFMAN, G.L AND KANUK, L.L (2001)53 opine that if a textile shop
is positioned as a selling outlet for all types of textile items, it indicates that the
concerned textile shop is competent to serve the requirements of consumers in all
market segments.' Positioning conveys the concept or meaning of the product or
service in terms of how it fulfils consumer needs'. Variety rating can be pointed out as
the fundamental criterion for developing preference for a textile shop. Variety rating
denotes the process of assessing of products available at the textile shop in terms of
the 'depth and width of each product line'. It is reflected in the form of a wide variety
of clothing having different qualities, style, texture, design, colour and price range. If
a textile shop is positioned as a selling outlet for all types of textile items, it indicates
that the concerned textile shop is competent to serve the requirements of consumers in
all market segments.' Positioning conveys the concept or meaning of the product or
service in terms of how it fulfils consumer needs'. When a textile shop is positively
positioned and preferred by prospective consumers, because of its potential to satisfy
consumer needs, they will develop the habit of giving,' positive word of mouth' about
the shop concerned. This phenomenon has multi-facetted effectiveness, as word of
mouth is being transmitted from individual to individual and from individual to
groups.

53 Schiffman, Leon, G, and Kanook, L, Leslie., Consumer behavior, Printice hall of India private
Ltd., New delhi, 2002, pp.4, 15.

42
 SCHIFFMAN, L.G, (2002)54 in his research explain that the Government
announces rebate for extending support for retailing textiles produced by the
handloom, kadhi and village industries sectors. 'Rebate appears as a discount on the
tag. It is worthwhile to quote the words of the Greek philosopher Tpictetus
Discourses'-`know first who you are then adorn yourself accordingly'. This viewpoint
is relevant in clothing because 'most people dress to fit their self image which
includes their perception of their own social class membership' Nevertheless, clothing
habit of individuals can also be considered as the crystallization of his/her cultural or
environmental factors on behaviour of consumers in the textile market. Accordingly,
the influence of attributes like social status, economic status, residential status, and
occupation, and casual income, foreign contact of consumers, Government policy,
education and festival on consumer behavior has been analyzed in the study.

SUBBASH.C.METHA (1974)55 Indian society in general is conservative and

tradition bound .Only "a small section of the population is very modern in its outlook
and behavior comparable even to the most sophisticated customer segment in the
world while a great majority is still on the extreme side of traditionalism".

UNCTAD Secretariat (2004)56 in a research report examines some factors,

the importance of textiles and clothing trade for development: and historical
perspective, restrictions on developing-country Readymade, recent developments, and
textile and clothing trade patterns under the MFA and the ATC, factors influencing
post-ATC effects, ensuring and maximizing development gains, and they conclude
that the dynamics of textiles and clothing trade will be influenced by several factors,
the international market for textile and clothing products continues to grow as the
world's population, income and standards of living increase. Also, the economies of
some popular developing countries are growing fast, and markets in the South will
thus become increasingly important for Southern Readymaders. The sector also
provides tremendous opportunities and prospects for developing countries given their
leverage with respect to labour costs, as well as the possibility for positive spillover

54 Schiffman, Leon, G, and Kanook, L, Leslie., Consumer behavior, Prentice Hall of India private
ltd., New delhi, 2002, p-4,15.
55
Subbash.C. Metha, Indian consumers' studies and cases for marketing decision. Tata Mcgraw hill.

56
UNCTAD, "Secretariat Assuring Development Gains From The International Trading System And
Trade Negotiations: Implications Of ATC Termination on 31 December 2004", Trade And
Development Board, Geneva 4-15, October 2004.

43
effects into other sectors, particularly upstream commodities sector and downstream
industries.

URBAN, E.J, (1994)57 in his paper reveals that perception of consumers about
the pricing of products offered by a textile shop plays a vital preference for the shop.
This is particularly true in the case of 'price-conscious consumers' who are willing to
forgo all other aspects that may affect the purchase decision process under normal
conditions. In the textile market, consumers have a price perception of every selling
outlet and accordingly they refer to a textile shop as either heavily priced or
moderately priced.' Price specials reinforce consumers' beliefs about the
competitiveness of shops'. It sketches a 'price-picture' of each textile shop, and
consumers behave accordingly.

According to UNDERWOOD, E (1991),58 consumers view location of selling

outlet as an environment, which is conducive to carrying out their shopping and allied
activities in an easy and pleasure giving manner. If the location of a selling outlet is
potential enough to gratify this requirement, consumers may perceive it as a selling
outlet having ideal location. Gratified consumers may give 'positive word of mouth'
about such a selling outlet. 'In its real sense, a positive word of mouth is more
effective than many other measures for creating positive perception. Products and
shopping environments do create positive perception'.

VARNIA, PARIKSSKAT (2001)59 in his articles says that the emergence of

fashion cannot be considered a casual event or one without any cause. It often reflects
events like social change, techno-economic development, political strife, etc. 'The
essence of fashion has three dimensions, namely absoluteness, reflection and change'.
Absoluteness means the prevalence of the style at a given point of time. The time may
be short or long. Reflection denotes capability of fashion to express the sensitivity of
human behaviour to social, economic and technological phenomena. Change refers to

57
Urbani. E, Joel Shimp.A, Terence, Broniarcy. M, Susan and Alba. W, Joseph., The influence of
price Belifs-Frequency cues and Magnitude cue on consumers perception of comparative price Data,
Journal of consumer Research, Sep 1994, p.219.

58
Underwood,E (1991). Elaine, What is in a small Packaging Ad, weeks Marketing week, 1991,
p.481
59
Varma, Pariksskat, Emerging Trends in Fashion adoptionConceptual Issues Marketing New
Paradings, Deep and Deep Publications, Mumbai, 2001, pp.92-94.

44
the potentiality of fashion to adapt to the changing phases of lifestyle and perceptions
of consumers.

However, style is periodically reborn. This process has been designated as

'fashion cycle'. 'There are three categories into which fashion cycles fall and they are
seasonal, catastrophic and revolutionary'. At the time of its rebirth, there will be some
changes in any of the elements, which constitute novelty in the appearance of
clothing. Seasonal fashion cycle means the seasonal break of fashion in clothing. An
item of fashion may no longer be desired by people for climatic reasons. Usually,
seasonal fabrics and accessories are being affected by this type of fashion cycle.
Catastrophic fashion cycle is brought by certain catastrophic events like outbreak of
war or economic recession. This can cause a reduction in propensity to consume
among patrons of fashionable textiles. Consumers will rationally plan their
expenditure on textiles by avoiding fashionable products that are costly, plan their
expenditure on textiles by avoiding fashionable products that are costly in nature. This
will be a hindrance to spreading fashion.

WERTHEIRMERI, ALBERT, (1979)60 opines that in practice, credit

schemes offered by retailers pave the way for establishing a deep- rooted relationship
between the customer and the retailer concerned. In the long run, credit schemes will
lead to create a store image among the consumers who have already availed .
themselves of the credit schemes. 'Store image is the way in which the store is
defined in the shopper's mind, partly by its functional qualities and partly by
psychological attributes'. 'Consumers' patronage of a particular retailer store can also
be significantly influenced by their perception of its image or "personality" A positive
image of the store may be considered an antecedent for developing 'store patronage'
among consumers. In the retailing of textiles, credit schemes, as means of consumer
promotion, are seldom practiced. Retailers do not have the habit of giving credit to
their customers. The probability of bad debt can be identified as the reason for this
trend. However, Government-sponsored institutions in the retailing of textiles, like
Hantex Co-optex, Khadi and Village Industries have devised credit schemes for
popularizing their products and for sizing up consumers.

60
Wertheirmeri, Albert., Factors Affecting Consumers images and choice of drug stores, Journal
of Retailing, 1979, p-71.

45
 Employees of Government and approved private sectors are the target
consumers of the credit schemes offered by these institutional retailers. As a
guarantee against the credit schemes, the beneficiary has to submit 'post-dated
cheques with the institutions concerned. The credit period runs between one month
and five months. As only selected segments of consumers are being benefited by the
credit scheme, it is not popular in the textile market. Hence, it can be stated that credit
scheme has little significance as a sales promotion tool in the retail marketing of
textiles.

WESTBROOK, A.ROBERT, (1981)61 has explained that shop preferences

seem to be influential in the behavioral aspect of consumers, because consumers are
very keen on selecting and using clothing or garments on the ground of their
'communicability'. Naturally, they may prefer a shop based on the product offered,
service rendered by the sales force, and the price range of the product. Experience
from a textile shop with regard to these aspects may activate them to mould patronage
towards the shop concerned. 'Consumers' satisfaction with a retail establishment may
be viewed in terms of an individual's emotional reactions to his or her evaluation of
the total set of experience realized from patronizing that retailer'.

According to ZEITHAML, MURALI & LITTREL (2003),62 during the

1980's a lot of research pertaining to quality was done. There were also many debates
amongst researchers as to what quality constitutes and how it should be measured .It
is, however, clear that there are different views of quality, which are interpreted
differently by marketers and consumers. Marketers are inclined to view quality in
terms of performance, workmanship and service ability standards, and according to
one of the opinion that this is how their customers also perceive quality. Consumers,
on the other hand, also included sensory and emotional expressive aspects when
describing what they perceive as quality in clothing textile products.

61
Westbrook, A.Robert, Source of consumer satisfaction with retail outlets, Journal of retailing,
Vol.!, February 1981, p-38.
62
Zeithaml, Murali & Littrel, (1995), Hines and 0' Neal, Journal of Ecology and Consumer
behavior Sciences, Vol.31, 2003, p.24.

4.6
2.2 CONCLUSION

The above studies undertaken by the earlier researchers include Consumers'

'behaviour towards discounts offered, Promotional schemes, Influence of community,
Changing fashions, quality of service, Consumers' demand, Shop loyalty, Consumer
decision making, Variety, product quality, Advertisement, Cultures and sub cultures,
Technological and Managerial developments, Nature of textiles goods , and so on. In
India, the studies cover the areas of retailing, the impact of rebate by the Khadhi and
Village industries sector, pricing methods and so on. Studies undertaken in India in
the field of marketing of textile products are limited. Therefore, there is a research gap
in marketing of textile products which is identified for the purpose of the present
research.

47