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ABSTRACT
Ignition system is one of the most important parts in motorcycle spark
ignition (SI) engine. If problems occur on this system, the combustion
process cannot be done and these results the engine cannot be start.
Typically motorcycle users do not use a proper tool to diagnose the
problem. Thus they are exposed to high voltage shock hazard. A tool is
needs to diagnose the problem. The main purpose of this report is to
design and develop a spark plug tester for motorcycle user to test the
spark plug and ignition wire connectivity. Thus the risk of high voltage
shock will be minimized. This report will show the process design and
development of the portable spark plug tester. The development of this
device is start from product architecture that descripts all function and
elements of the components in this device.
SYNOPSIS
Ignition system is one of the most particular parts of motorcycle that
causes of the malfunction of an engine. The most crucial parts of this
system are the spark plug. The spark plug need to supply a proper spark
to the engine. If the proper spark not being supplied to the engine, the
combustion process cannot be done. The problem of ignition circuit
connectivity may prevent the engine from being turned on because it
cannot allow the current to spark plug. These will caused the spark plug
cannot able to create the spark to start the combustion process. The
critical factor of this problem is that it must be identified at an early stage
of the diagnosis before repairing. Typically, motorcycle user does not use a
proper tool to test the spark plug thus they are exposing themselves to
the risk of high voltage shock. They also need to use multimeter to check
the connectivity of ignition circuit.
The most spark plugs dont need to be replaced; they are simply less
efficient because of the carbon content spreader over the spark plug. The
electrode is present in the centre of the spark plug. In the spark plug
always we need to maintain the gap between the electrode and the spark
pin. While on engine running the high voltage current will be passing
through the spark plug to generate the spark inside the engine to burn the
air fuel mixture inside the engine cylinder. Due to this process the carbon
content spread over the spark plug. By running the vehicle with out
cleaning the spark plugs causes many damages to the vehicle. For eg,
mileage drop, produce sound, damage the cylinder due to uneven
sequencing of spark produced inside the cylinder. After removing the
carbon content in the spark plug we can reuse the spark plug. It will give
more efficiency as compare to old one. Automobile workshops the spark
plug cleaning and exact testing consumes more time by using the manual
testing, so make simplification setup in testing and cleaning, we are going
to design and fabricate a single setup to save the time.
Dry Sand Abrasion Tester Application This tester used to determine the
wear resistance of materials to scratching abrasion under specified
condition using dry sand/alumina quarts/silicon carbide as abrasive
Feature Conforms to manually controlled preset revolution counter for
particular time.
SCOPE
The scopes of this study include:
1. Come out with a design of a portable spark plug tester with dual functions
2. A development of a prototype to test out the conceptual design
LITERATURE REVIEW
Literature review is a published research or information that will be used
as reference and guide for a new research. This literature review covers
the previous study and information that are related to this project. The
information will be used as value added or reference for this project. The
information can be found from book, internet, journal, paper work and so
on.
Spark Plug
Spark plugs are specified by size, either thread or nut , sealing type and
spark gap.
In the United States, common thread (nut) sizes are 10mm (16mm),
12mm (14mm, 16mm or 17.5mm), 14mm (16mm, 20.63mm) and 18mm
(20.63mm).
Terminal
The top of the spark plug contains a terminal to connect to the ignition
system. The exact terminal construction varies depending on the use of
the spark plug. Most passenger car spark plug wires snap onto the
terminal of the plug, but some wires have eyelet connectors which are
fastened onto the plug under a nut. Plugs which are used for these
applications often have the end of the terminal serve a double purpose as
the nut on a thin threaded shaft so that they can be used for either type of
connection.
Insulator
The main part of the insulator is typically made from sintered alumina, a
very hard ceramic material with high dielectric strength, printed with the
manufacturer's name and identifying marks, then glazed to improve
resistance to surface spark tracking. Its major functions are to provide
mechanical support and electrical insulation for the central electrode,
while also providing an extended spark path for flashover protection. This
extended portion, particularly in engines with deeply recessed plugs,
helps extend the terminal above the cylinder head so as to make it more
readily accessible.
Ribs
By lengthening the surface between the high voltage terminal and the
grounded metal case of the spark plug, the physical shape of the ribs
functions to improve the electrical insulation and prevent electrical energy
from leaking along the insulator surface from the terminal to the metal
case. The disrupted and longer path makes the electricity encounter more
resistance along the surface of the spark plug even in the presence of dirt
and moisture. Some spark plugs are manufactured without ribs;
improvements in the dielectric strength of the insulator make them less
important
Insulator tip
On modern (post 1930s) spark plugs, the tip of the insulator protruding
into the combustion chamber is the same sintered aluminium oxide
(alumina) ceramic as the upper portion, merely unglazed. It is designed to
withstand 650 C (1,200 F) and 60 kV.
The dimensions of the insulator and the metal conductor core determine
the heat range of the plug. Short insulators are usually "cooler" plugs,
while "hotter" plugs are made with a lengthened path to the metal body,
though this also depends on the thermally conductive metal core.
Seals
Because the spark plug also seals the combustion chamber or the engine
when installed, seals are required to ensure there is no leakage from the
combustion chamber. The internal seals of modern plugs are made of
compressed glass/metal powder, but old style seals were typically made
by the use of a multi-layer braze. The external seal is usually a crush
washer, but some manufacturers use the cheaper method of a taper
interface and simple compression to attempt sealing.
Metal case/shell
The metal case/shell (or the jacket, as many people call it) of the spark
plug withstands the torque of tightening the plug, serves to remove heat
from the insulator and pass it on to the cylinder head, and acts as the
ground for the sparks passing through the central electrode to the side
electrode. Spark plug threads are cold rolled to prevent thermal cycle
fatigue. It's important to install spark plugs with the correct "reach," or
thread length. Spark plugs can vary in reach from 0.095 to 2.649 cm
(0.0375 to 1.043 in), such for automotive and small engine
applications, Also, a marine spark plug's shell is double-dipped, zinc-
chromate coated metal.
Central electrode
The central electrode is usually the one designed to eject the electrons
(the cathode, i.e. negative polarity[11]) because it is the hottest (normally)
part of the plug; it is easier to emit electrons from a hot surface, because
of the same physical laws that increase emissions of vapor from hot
surfaces (see thermionic emission). In addition, electrons are emitted
where the electrical field strength is greatest; this is from wherever the
radius of curvature of the surface is smallest, from a sharp point or edge
rather than a flat surface (see corona discharge). It would be easiest to
pull electrons from a pointed electrode but a pointed electrode would
erode after only a few seconds. Instead, the electrons emit from the sharp
edges of the end of the electrode; as these edges erode, the spark
becomes weaker and less reliable.
At one time it was common to remove the spark plugs, clean deposits off
the ends either manually or with specialized sandblasting equipment and
file the end of the electrode to restore the sharp edges, but this practice
has become less frequent for three reasons:
3. iridium and platinum plugs that have longer lifetimes than copper
have become more common
The side electrode (also known as the "ground strap") is made from high
nickel steel and is welded or hot forged to the side of the metal shell. The
side electrode also runs very hot, especially on projected nose plugs.
Some designs have provided a copper core to this electrode, so as to
increase heat conduction. Multiple side electrodes may also be used, so
that they don't overlap the central electrode.
Since electrons flow in the opposite direction (from "-" to "+" electrode)
than electrical current itself (from "+" to "-" electrode), it is actually more
often from the surface of the side electrode, that is grounded to "-"
electrode of the car battery and alternator, where electrons are ejected
from towards central electrode. That's why it is important to have edge
shaped area or even more areas there (just like some Bosch spark plugs
with two edges in spear-like head), that are least exposed to the erosion
forces from combustion process thus keeping ignition system in good
working condition as long as possible (10,00025,000 km [6,200
15,500 mi] for common spark plugs). Edge or pike is the area from where
the spark jumps off most easily (if there are different options for current
with similar gap between "+" and "-" electrode) and with less voltage drop
(since the gap creates resistance in the circuit). Therefore, some spark
plugs can be easily and sometimes even repeatedly renewed by just mild
re-sharping these edges (as long as other vital parts and characteristics of
spark plugs are not compromised) to the original working state or even re-
modelating the original side electrode design (which is very tricky if you
are not qualified electrician or physicist). But one has to be careful with a
welded joint side electrode as repeatedly re-adjusting the gap between
the electrodes may cause metal fatigue and losing part of the side
electrode in the cylinder chamber will result in immediate ignition
malfunction and almost certainly result in serious damage to the specially
surface-treated cylinder walls or piston sealing rings. The very same
problem can occur as a result of protruding flakes due to poor quality
welding, since they are prone to become loose during prolonged service
life of common spark plug. Therefore, any flaking should be treated by
rubbing off if spark plug is reused beyond its recommended service life.
Spark plug gap
Spark plugs are typically designed to have a spark gap which can be
adjusted by the technician installing the spark plug, by bending the
ground electrode slightly. The same plug may be specified for several
different engines, requiring a different gap for each. Spark plugs in
automobiles generally have a gap between 0.6 and 1.8 mm (0.024 and
0.071 in). The gap may require adjustment from the out-of-the-box gap.
A spark plug gap gauge is a disc with a sloping edge, or with round wires
of precise diameters, and is used to measure the gap. Use of a feeler
gauge with flat blades instead of round wires, as is used
on distributor points or valve lash, will give erroneous results, due to the
shape of spark plug electrodes The simplest gauges are a collection of
keys of various thicknesses which match the desired gaps and the gap is
adjusted until the key fits snugly. With current engine technology,
universally incorporating solid state ignition systems and
computerized fuel injection, the gaps used are larger on average than in
the era of carburetors and breaker point distributors, to the extent that
spark plug gauges from that era cannot always measure the required gaps
of current cars Vehicles using compressed natural gas generally require
narrower gaps than vehicles using gasoline.
Over the years variations on the basic spark plug design have attempted
to provide either better ignition, longer life, or both. Such variations
include the use of two, three, or four equally spaced ground electrodes
surrounding the central electrode. Other variations include using a
recessed central electrode surrounded by the spark plug thread, which
effectively becomes the ground electrode (see "surface-discharge spark
plug", below). Also there is the use of a V-shaped notch in the tip of the
ground electrode. Multiple ground electrodes generally provide longer life,
as when the spark gap widens due to electric discharge wear, the spark
moves to another closer ground electrode. The disadvantage of multiple
ground electrodes is that a shielding effect can occur in the engine
combustion chamber inhibiting the flame face as the fuel air mixture
burns. This can result in a less efficient burn and increased fuel
consumption.
A piston engine has a part of the combustion chamber that is always out
of reach of the piston; and this zone is where the conventional spark plug
is located. A Wankel engine has a permanently varying combustion area;
and the spark plug is inevitably swept by the tip seals. Clearly, if a spark
plug were to protrude into the Wankel's combustion chamber it would foul
the rotating tip; and if the plug were recessed to avoid this, the sunken
spark might lead to poor combustion. So a new type of "surface
discharge" plug was developed for the Wankel. Such a plug presents an
almost flat face to the combustion chamber. A stubby centre electrode
projects only very slightly; and the entire earthed body of the plug acts as
the side electrode. The advantage is that the plug sits just beneath the
tip-seal that sweeps over it, keeping the spark accessible to the fuel/air
mixture. The "plug gap" remains constant throughout its life; and the
spark path will continually vary (instead of darting from the centre to the
side electrode as in a conventional plug). Whereas a conventional side
electrode will (admittedly, rarely) come adrift in use and potentially cause
engine damage, this is impossible with a surface discharge plug, as there
is nothing to break off. Surface-discharge spark plugs have been produced
by inter alia, Denso, NGK, Champion and Bosch.
Most spark plugs seal to the cylinder head with a single-use hollow or
folded metal washer which is crushed slightly between the flat surface of
the head and that of the plug, just above the threads. Some spark plugs
have a tapered seat that uses no washer. The torque for installing these
plugs is supposed to be lower than a washer-sealed plug. [14] Spark plugs
with tapered seats should never be installed in vehicles with heads
requiring washers, and vice versa. Otherwise, a poor seal or incorrect
reach would result because of the threads not properly seating in the
heads.
Tip protrusion
The length of the threaded portion of the plug should be closely matched
to the thickness of the head. If a plug extends too far into the combustion
chamber, it may be struck by the piston, damaging the engine internally.
Less dramatically, if the threads of the plug extend into the combustion
chamber, the sharp edges of the threads act as point sources of heat
which may cause pre-ignition; in addition, deposits which form between
the exposed threads may make it difficult to remove the plugs, even
damaging the threads on aluminium heads in the process of removal. The
protrusion of the tip into the chamber also affects plug performance,
however; the more centrally located the spark gap is, generally the better
the ignition of the air-fuel mixture will be, although experts believe the
process is more complex and dependent on combustion chamber shape.
On the other hand, if an engine is "burning oil", the excess oil leaking into
the combustion chamber tends to foul the plug tip and inhibit the spark; in
such cases, a plug with less protrusion than the engine would normally
call for often collects less fouling and performs better, for a longer period.
In fact, special "anti-fouling" adapters are sold which fit between the plug
and the head to reduce the protrusion of the plug for just this reason, on
older engines with severe oil burning problems; this will cause the ignition
of the fuel-air mixture to be less effective, but in such cases, this is of
lesser significance.
Heat Range
The heat range of a spark plug is affected by the construction of the spark
plug: the types of materials used, the length of insulator and the surface
area of the plug exposed within the combustion chamber. For normal use,
the selection of a spark plug heat range is a balance between keeping the
tip hot enough at idle to prevent fouling and cold enough at maximal
power to prevent pre-ignition or engine knocking. By examining "hotter"
and "cooler" spark plugs of the same manufacturer side by side, the
principle involved can be very clearly seen; the cooler plugs have a more
substantial ceramic insulator filling the gap between the center electrode
and the shell, effectively allowing more heat to be carried off by the shell,
while the hotter plugs have less ceramic material, so that the tip is more
isolated from the body of the plug and retains heat better.
Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases,
the side walls of the cylinder and the spark plug itself. The heat range of a
spark plug has only a minute effect on combustion chamber and overall
engine temperature. A cold plug will not materially cool down an engine's
running temperature. (A too hot plug may, however, indirectly lead to a
runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase engine temperature.)
Rather, the main effect of a "hot" or "cold" plug is to affect the
temperature of the tip of the spark plug.
The spark plug cleaner and tester is of metal construction, and is supplied in both floor and
bench models. It is designed to sandblast clean, and make spark gap tests, on 7 /8-inch, 10-,
14-, and 18-mm spark plugs. This unit operates from a 12-volt d-c outside power source.
Battery clips are provided for this purpose. An outside source of compressed air is required
for the sandblast cleaning operation.
Push Button.
The test button located on the front of the case is pushed to supply
ignition voltage to the spark plug during the gap test.
Air Valve Control. The air valve control is a wing-type handle on the top
of the cleaner-tester, and is marked "AIR." It has three positions, which are
marked on the top of the case, namely: "OFF," "AIR," and "SAND." This
control is used to control the flow of air and sand for sandblast cleaning of
plugs.
Needle Valve.
The needle valve, located between the two test openings on top of the
case, is turned clockwise to decrease, and counterclockwise to increase
the pressure of air for the spark plug gap test. d. Pressure Gage. The
pressure gage, mounted in the top of the case at the right-hand test
opening, registers the pressure applied during' the spark plug gap test. It
is calibrated from 0 to 300 pounds per square inch.
Mirror.
The metal mirror, mounted at an angle to the rear of the plug test
openings, is used to observe action of the spark during the gap test.
Gap Gages.
Three wire-type gages are supplied with the unit for the purpose of
checking and adjusting spark plug gaps. 6 TM 9-834 4 CLEANER AND
TESTER, SPARK PLUG-No. 40-C-1011 4.
OPERATION.
. Preliminary Instructions.
CAUTION: Spark plug gap test will not be satisfactory without case
adequately grounded. Remove air exhaust bag and screen, and pour 1 to
11/2 pounds of abrasive into sand chamber. Replace bag and screen, and
tighten securely in place. Attach battery ciips to 12-volt storage battery
(white wire to negative and black wire to positive terminal).
Sandblast Cleaning.
If there are not two spark plugs in the gap test openings, be sure the
needle valve is closed before doing sandblast cleaning. Make sure plug is
free of any excess oil or water and, using right hand, insert plug in cleaner
opening. With left hand, turn air control valve to "SAND" position. Oscillate
outer end of plug with a circular motion, so that cleaner blast can
penetrate all crevices, for about 5 seconds. Without removing plug from
opening, turn air valve 180 to the "AIR" position, and again oscillate plug
for a few seconds to clear out all particles of loosened carbon or cleaning
compound. Return the air valve to "OFF" position and remove the cleaned
plug. Shake out, or jar loose any particles of abrasive remaining between
the plug porcelain and shell. CAUTION: Do not turn the air control valve to
"SAND" position when there is no plug in the cleaner opening, as cleaning
compound would be blown out through the cleaner opening at sufficient
velocity to be injurious.
IC used in machine
LM555 timer
Features