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No 93 Spring 2010

ISSN 0790 8008


3.95 (3.40)

THE MAGAZINE FOR WALKERS AND CLIMBERS IN IRELAND

www.mountaineering.ie
The new Board of Mountaineering Ireland following the AGM in Glendalough in March with President Alan Tees (seated, centre front) and Chief Officer, Karl
Boyle (standing, right). Front row (L to R): Ruair Conchir (Chairperson), Alan Tees (President), David Batt (Hononary Treasurer). Back row (L to R): Patrick
OSullivan, Stephen McMullan, Sandra Kennedy, Jerry ODwyer, Pat Kinneally, Karl Boyle. Absent: Ross Millar (Honorary Secretary) and Dawson Stelfox.

Now we need some regional reps


his years AGM, held in the Officer resigned. Although we have lost and Conservation Officer. Helen was at

T Glendalough Hotel on
March 6th, was a great
success; even the weather turned
their valuable input, we still have the
seven experienced members who were
re-elected, and this is important, not just
for consistency but also for the
the AGM, where the announcement of
her appointment was enthusiastically
welcomed by all present.
up trumps for the weekend. It was
organisations institutional memory. This As we head into the exciting year ahead,
a pleasure, as always, to meet
institutional memory is vital for any the Board have asked me to find four or
Board and staff members of
organisation knowing what has been six suitable candidates to become
Mountaineering Ireland, but there tried before and what did or did not work, Regional Vice-Presidents for
was also the opportunity to renew understanding the relationships with other Mountaineering Ireland. These will be
acquaint-ances with other organisations, being aware of the honorary positions to represent the
members from around the country. situation regarding funding, and so on. interests of the various regions around the
country to the Board, and to represent
Following the AGM, we pass into what The success of the AGM weekend was in the Board in those various regions. The
promises to be an exciting year for no small part due to the excellent ideal candidates will be committed
Mountaineering Ireland. A new Board was arrangements made at relatively short volunteers, well known in their local areas,
elected for a two-year term, with most of notice by the new Chief Officer, Karl sociable and approachable. Attendance
the existing Board being re-elected. Boyle, and his staff. After the difficulties in at Board meetings will not be essential,
However, I am delighted to welcome recruiting staff that we had last year, we as Board minutes could be circulated to
Sandra Kennedy and Stephen McMullan now have Karl in post to lead Vice-Presidents, from whose ranks the
to join the other volunteers on the Board. Mountaineering Ireland forward. In next President could possibly be chosen.
I am sure that their experience and skills addition, we also have a new Training If you know any suitable candidates,
will be of value to the mountaineering Officer, Alun Richardson, who brings a please let me know.
scene in Ireland, bringing fresh ideas and huge range of experience to the post and
enthusiasm to the Board. who is already familiar with the Irish Alan Tees,
mountaineering scene through his President,
Many thanks to retiring Board members involvement in the Summer Alpine Meet, Mountaineering Ireland
Toms Aylward, who chaired Bord Oiliint and a new and very well qualified Training
Slibhe; Vince McAlinden, who has for Assistant, Nicole Mullen, with a proven
many years served as Chair of the Youth track record of commitment to
Steering Committee; and Deirdre mountaineering. We are also soon to be
McCarthy, who for a time acted as interim rejoined by Helen Lawless, recently
Office Manager after the previous Chief appointed as our new Hillwalking, Access

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 3


4contents
WeLCOMe TO...
ISSUE 93
The Irish Mountain Log is the
membership magazine of
Mountaineering Ireland. The
organisation promotes the
interests of hillwalkers and
climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland
Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a
company limited by guarantee.
Registered in Dublin No 199053.
Registered Office:
Sport HQ, 13 Joyce Way,
Park West Business Park,
Dublin 12, Ireland
Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115
Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116
info@mountaineering.ie
www.mountaineering.ie

Hot Rock Climbing Wall


Features
Tollymore Mountain Centre 24 In the Glass House
Bryansford, Newcastle
County Down BT33 0PT Mountains
Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 Anthony Toole goes down under
youth@mountaineering.ie
to Queensland
Editor: Patrick OSullivan
Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds)
iml-editor@mountaineering.ie
27 In the Home of Giants
Features Editor: Peter ONeill Mary Carr walks in Norways
iml-featureseditor@mountaineering.ie
Literary Editor: Joss Lynam
Jotunheimen National Park
Tel: (+353 1) 288 4672 (pm)
iml-literaryeditor@mountaineering.ie
32 All day and all of the night
Advertising: Mountaineering Ireland Adrian Hendroff reflects on his
logads@mountaineering.ie
Production: Ciln MacLochlainn
Mountain Leader training
iml-production@mountaineering.ie
Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd,
Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP
36 Walking the GR10 in the
Tel: +44 (0) 28 9070 2020 French Pyrenees
Tina and Niall ennis hike over
The Irish Mountain Log is published by
Mountaineering Ireland four times a 900km along one of europes
year in March, June, September,
longest mountain ranges
December. The material published in
the Log by the voluntary editorial team
and contributors must not be taken as
40 Written in stone: Tundra
official Mountaineering Ireland policy
unless specifically stated. Ireland the periglacial past
Bernie Lafferty and Peter Wilson
Copy deadline for the Summer 2010
issue of the Irish Mountain Log is continue their series on the
Friday, May 14th, 2010.
evolution of the Irish mountain
PARTICIPATION AND RISK landscape
Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are
reminded that hillwalking and climbing
are activities with a danger of personal 44 Lost and found
injury or death. Participants in these Dr Katya Hanson of the New
activities should be aware of and
accept these risks, and be responsible Jersey Search and Rescue
for their own actions and involvement. Association explains how adults
Mountaineering Ireland publishes and
promotes safety and good practice and children can be taught to keep
advice and through Bord Oilint Slibhe themselves safe in the outdoors
(BOS, The Irish Mountain Training
Board) administers a range of training
programmes for walkers and climbers.
Regulars
6 News 12 IMRA news 48 Training
news 51 Books 58 The last word

4 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


editorial3

To boldly go...
he spring issue of the Irish Mountain Log is slightly

T later than usual. However, with the AGM being held


later than in previous years and the appointment of
several key staff to Mountaineering Ireland, it was felt
important that we include as much information as possible
about the positive developments that have occurred in the
organisation in recent months.

For many of the members who attended the AGM in the


Glendalough Hotel, it was their first opportunity to meet the
recently appointed staff (for more, see pages 6-7). The success
of the AGM is a tribute to Karl Boyle, the new Chief Officer, and
his staff, particularly Kate Hebblethwaite, the Training
Administrator, and the long-serving office staff, Una Feeney and
Terry Canavan, whose commitment to the organisation must also
be acknowledged. The fact that the weather was so good, just
made the whole weekend in the beautiful surroundings of
Glendalough even more enjoyable.

As the days have got longer and the weather has improved, more
people will be heading out into the upland areas. Mountain
Meitheal, the volunteer organisation which is working to protect
the environment and promote sustainable outdoor recreation,
have also resumed their workdays after a short break over the
winter. They seem to go from strength to strength, adding in 2009
to their impressive list of past successes such as on Djouce and
Maulin, and on the ZigZags in Glenmalure, pictured left (see
report, page 21).

The calendar for the Mountain Meitheal workdays this year can
be found on their website, www.pathsavers.org, together with
information about their work. I would encourage anyone who is
interested in protecting the upland environment to check out the
website and perhaps join them on one of their workdays. The
ongoing success of their work relies on the continued voluntary
support of hillwalkers and climbers.

Both Mountain Meitheal and Mountaineering Ireland promote the


concept of sustainable outdoor
recreation by observing the principles of
Leave No Trace. These have been
described in recent issues of the Irish
Mountain Log and the final principle,
minimise the effects of fire, is discussed
in this issue (page 20).

Patrick OSullivan
Editor, Irish Mountain Log

ON THE COVER: Lugnaquillia, Co Wicklow, in March.


Photo: Patrick OSullivan.
THIS PAGE: The Zig-Zags, Glenmalure, Co Wicklow.
Photo: Patrick OSullivan.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 5


4news

News
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
info@mountaineering.ie

BOARD OF DIRECTORS
President
Get all the latest news at www.mountaineering.ie Alan Tees
president@mountaineering.ie
Chairman
Changing of the guard Ruair Conchir
chairperson@mountaineering.ie
Honorary Secretary
New high-calibre staff join office team Ross Millar
secretary@mountaineering.ie
Honorary Treasurer
The Board of Mountaineering Ireland is pleased to welcome the following
David Batt
appointees to the staff of Mountaineering Ireland: Karl Boyle joined at the treasurer@mountaineering.ie
beginning of the year as the new Chief Officer; Alun Richardson will be
working part-time as Training Officer; Helen Lawless will be rejoining the BOARD MEMBERS
Pat Kenneally
organisation in April as Hillwalking, Access and Conservation Officer; and
pat-board@mountaineering.ie
Nicole Mullen has joined as Training Administrator, supporting Alun. The Jerry ODwyer
Board wishes them all success in their work with Mountaineering Ireland. jerry-board@mountaineering.ie
Patrick OSullivan
patrick-board@mountaineering.ie
Karl Boyle: Chief Officer Dawson Stelfox
Karl Boyle was appointed Chief Officer in January. He is a dawson-board@mountaineering.ie
native of Claremorris, Co Mayo, and joins Mountaineering Stephen McMullan
stephen-board@mountaineering.ie
Ireland from the Defence Forces.
Sandra Kennedy
Growing up on a farm in the west of Ireland, Karl
sandra-board@mountaineering.ie
developed a love for the outdoors. From swimming to
soccer, from hillwalking to Gaelic football, he got involved in STAFF AT SPORT HQ
any sport going. As a teenager, he spent some time with the Chief Officer
then Atlantic Adventure Centre outside Westport. At the time, Karl Boyle
he became a competitive swimmer and also played Gaelic karl@mountaineering.ie
football for Mayo at all levels. Administrator
Una Feeney
After leaving St Colmans College, Claremorris, Karl joined the Defence Forces as a
una@mountaineering.ie
cadet and trained for two years in the Military College in the Curragh, Kildare. The
Accounts Administrator
outdoor world became occupational and Wicklows hills, the Comeraghs and the Galtees Terry Canavan
became his new stomping grounds. His navigation and survival skills were sharpened terry@mountaineering.ie
during his cadetship, along with many other military skills. Karl was commissioned by the Training Administrator
then president Mary Robinson and went on to join the Defence Forces Artillery Corps. As Nicole Mullen
he admitted at our recent AGM, he was often responsible for the artillery noises in the nicole@mountaineering.ie
Glen of Imaal! The Defence Forces also provided Karl with the opportunity to attend NUI Training Officer
Galway, where he studied commerce, majoring in economics. Alun Richardson
alun@mountaineering.ie
Karl remembers his time in the Defence Forces with great fondness, especially his
Hillwalkin, Access
tours of duty overseas with the United Nations in 2004, when he went to Liberia with the
& Conservation Officer
UN Quick Reaction Force, and with the european Union Force (eUFOR) in 2007, when Helen Lawless
he served in Bosnia. helen@mountaineering.ie
Karl was then posted back to Ireland, where he was responsible for the human
resource function in a brigade headquarters. At the same time, he undertook a Masters STAFF AT TOLLYMORE
in Business Administration on a part-time basis and graduated in 2009. Leaving the Coaching Development
relative security of the army for Mountaineering Ireland at the beginning of this year has & Talent Identification Officer
brought new challenges for Karl, which he is looking forward to facing. Angela Carlin
angela@mountaineering.ie
NI Youth Development Officer
Alun Richardson: Training Officer Paul Swail
Well-known author, climber and mountain guide, Alun paul.swail@mountaineering.ie
Richardson will be working for Mountaineering Ireland part-
time on a contractual basis as Training Officer. Living in
Pembrokeshire, Alun is an IFMGA Guide, a member of the
British Mountain Guides Association, an MIA and a BCU
inland and sea kayak coach. He has been an MLTUK
approved trainer and an assessor for the SPA, MLA
(summer) and the WGL awards for more than fifteen years.

6 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010


news3

He has trained and assessed on MIA courses at Plas y Brenin. Along the way, he picked up a Calendar
teaching qualification in Outdoor education and wrote the highly acclaimed book
Mountaineering: Essential Skills as well as Rock Climbing for Instructors. of Events
Alun started climbing at the age of 20 and has spent more than 30 years walking, rock
climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, ski touring, guiding and instructing in the UK, europe,
(Training Office)
USA, Alaska, the Pamirs, Tien Shan, Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh, China, Argentina, ecuador, 7 April Summer Meet
Peru, Greenland and the Himalaya. He has put up over fifty new rock climbs in Pembrokeshire, Information evening, Great
made the first British ascents of Pik Korshenyevskya (7105m) and Paralungbi east, and opened Outdoors (Chatham St, Dublin
2), 7:30pm.
new routes in the Szechuan mountain range of China and in south-east Greenland. In 2008, he
17 April SPA refresher
led an expedition to kayak and climb in the Schweitzerland Alps of south-east Greenland. In (location TBA).
November 2009, he climbed Ama Dablam. 30 April Deadline for
In addition to his climbing exploits, Alun is a writer and photographer. He is a safety and Summer Meet bookings.
8-9 May Volunteer Training
technical advisor to many organisations and has appeared in adverts for Beefeater Gin, Irish
Officer workshop (location
Ferries and Invesco Perpetual. He enjoys walking his dog as much as climbing a hard route, and TBA).
one of his favourite sayings is: 28-30 May Train the Trainers
Going to the right place at the right time with the right people is all that matters; workshop, Glendalough, Co
Wicklow.
what one does is purely incidental. (Colin Kirkus to Alf Bridges)
3-18 July 2010 Summer
Alun is enthusiastic about the prospect of working with Mountaineering Ireland, developing Alpine Meet, Ailefroide, France.
the provision of hillwalking and climbing training on the island of Ireland and ensuring that the 20 September Continuing
training that is available is relevant to the needs of its members. Professional Development SPA
workshop (location TBA).
21-22 September
Nicole Mullen: Training Administrator Continuing Professional
Nicole Mullen graduated with an MSc in education and Training Development WGL workshop
Management and e-Learning from Dublin City University and has (location TBA).
21-22 September
been working as an IT trainer for the last few years, when her
Continuing Professional
main focus was as a Microsoft Office Trainer, including courses Development MLA workshop
such as eCDL, MOS and MCAS. (location TBA).
Nicole has been associated with the DCU Rock Climbing Club 25-26 September WGL
refresher workshop (location
for many years and served on its organising committee. She has
TBA).
also been involved in organising the Irish Bouldering League. 25-26 September ML
Nicole is looking forward to working with and supporting the new refresher workshop (location
Training Officer, Alun Richardson. TBA).
8-10 October WGL
Assessment (location TBA).
Helen Lawless: Hillwalking, Access and Conservation Officer 8-10 October ML
Helen worked with the then MCI from 2001 to 2007 as Development Officer. For the last three Assessment, Donegal.
years, she has worked with the Wicklow Uplands Council as Countryside Recreation Officer. 15-16 October Continuing
Professional Development MS
One of her responsibilities in that post was the development of agreed access routes for
workshop (location TBA).
hillwalkers in conjunction with private landowners. In her new post with Mountaineering Ireland, 30 October SPA refresher
the new position of Hillwalking, Access & Conservation Officer, Helen will play a key role in the (location TBA).
development and delivery of the organisations access and conservation work programme and 13-14 November Volunteer
Training Officer workshop
in the provision of support to hillwalking clubs and hillwalkers throughout Ireland.
(location TBA).
Now living in the Wicklow Mountains close to Lugnaquillia, Helen has been an active hillwalker
for over twenty years. She is a Leave No Trace Master educator and recently completed a BSc
Log on to the Mountaineering
in Rural Development. Ireland website for booking
Helens passion for hillwalking and for the upland environment, her knowledge of forms and further details of
Mountaineering Ireland and the practical experience she has gained in working on access, trail these events.
and recreation projects at a local level will add considerably to the organisations expertise and
strength in the area of access and conservation.
As part of her role, Helen will represent Mountaineering Ireland in discussions with
government departments, agencies and other recreational bodies with a
view to positively influencing policies affecting Irelands uplands. She
will be a source of information and advice for members, the public
and the media on hillwalking, access and conservation matters.
One of Helens first priorities will be assisting with the
organisation of a seminar to promote sustainable use of Irelands
uplands, which will be hosted jointly with other organisations
including the Countryside Access and Activities Network and the Mountaineering Ireland
Irish Uplands Forum. promotes the principles of
Leave No Trace

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 7


Annual Accounts
Annual Accounts for November 2008 to December 2009
FROM A MANAGeMeNT perspective, the membership payments being received in costs without affecting member services
most important outcome of the 2009 renewals during November and and, as we now have a full complement
financial year was the moving of the end December, less the running cost of the of staff on board working very hard to
of the organisations financial year to the organisation for the two months and circa deliver on the targets of our strategic
31st of December. This was approved at 50,000 which was paid out for plan, in the coming year we may have to
the AGM and brings Mountaineering members insurance. utilise some of our strategic financial
Irelands financial year in line with that of As outlined at the AGM, our Irish Sports reserves to ensure that we can continue
the Irish Sports Council, our main Council Grant for 2010 was reduced by to deliver on those targets.
sponsor. It will also allow us to more over 6% and we have been told to expect
easily meet the quarterly reporting a further decrease in 2011. With this in David Batt,
requirements of Sport Northern Ireland, mind, we are working very hard to control Honorary Treasurer
who also support Mountaineering Ireland
financially. The membership year will not
be affected by this move but it will make The Mountaineering Council of Ireland
(A company limited by guarantee, not having a share capital)
the financial running of Mountaineering Income and Expenditure Account
Ireland, and our reporting to our for the period ended 31 December 2009
sponsors, much easier.
Income Dec 2009 Oct 2008
The audited Financial Accounts for the
12 months ending 31st October 2009 Membership Subscriptions 355,226 227,451
Mountain Log 65,912 71,911
show a surplus of 40,902. This surplus Summer Alpine Meet 20,860 31,750
comes from a number of different sources BOS 38,242 25,473
Northern Ireland Youth Development Programme 35,931 17,986
and there are some timing issues where Publications 12,744 11,639
money was spent in October 2008 and Lectures & Library 429 2,471
correctly reported in that financial year but Spring & Autumn Meets 1,767 1,700
Other Income 3,637 5,030
the benefit was not felt until the 2009 Irish Sports Council Grants 276,850 257,000
financial year. The five major contributors Sport Northern Ireland 62,380 37,741
Sponsorship 4,520 3,863
to the surplus were an increase in environmental Defence Fund 3,144 2,348
membership numbers, a slight gain in Bank Interest 2,697 9,159
________ ________
currency exchanges, a reduction in the
884,339 705,522
production costs of the Irish Mountain ________ ________
Expenditure
Log, a marked reduction in the marketing
and administration expenditure, and Wages and Salaries 248,043 249,295
Rent Payable 18,526 18,526
timing differences for BOS expenditure. Marketing & exhibitions 3,426 24,636
Whilst the Financial Accounts do show Legal and professional 1,381 -
Audit 4,235 4,500
a considerable amount of money going
Bank Charges 7,984 2,913
through them, much of it is in the form of General expenses 928 6,356
grants that we receive for specific Administration expenses 40,945 38,801
Access and Conservation 5,583 7,621
purposes, which are ring-fenced and AGM 3,697 2,332
should not be considered as part of the Summer Alpine Meet 18,051 33,810
Area Meetings 1,271 4,113
general pool of monies available for Board expenses 30,357 10,042
Mountaineering Ireland activities. The BOS 22,305 35,532
Chief Officer 12,919 8,473
main elements of this are the funds Climbing Wall & Bouldering League 2,114 1,224
received for the post of Chief Officer and Guide Books 17,683 29,960
expedition Grants 2,000 2,476
to support the Training Office from the
Membership Costs 125,687 87,087
Irish Sports Council, and for the two Mountain Log 91,911 93,978
posts funded by Sport Northern Ireland. Northern Ireland Youth Development Programme 93,129 63,287
Special Projects 12,124 5,723
To bring Mountaineering Ireland in line Spring & Autumn Meets - 2,653
with the new financial year, the audited Lectures & Library 2,701 8,615
Union International Alpinist Association 3,067 2,629
accounts are shown for a 14 Month Girls Outside Programme 23,000 15,000
Accounting Period ending 31st December Mountain Rescue Northern Ireland 5,991 -
Subscriptions 3,413 1,821
2009. These show a surplus of 78,137. Depreciation 3,731 4,098
This increase in the surplus is due to the Members Support Officer - 951
________ ________
additional two remaining months of the
806,202 765,501
Irish Sports Council grant being ________ ________
accounted for and 72,000 in Net surplus/(deficit) 78,137 (59,979)
________ ________

8 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


Some AGM attendees climbed news3
Lugnaquillia the next day.
Photo: Patrick OSullivan.

An AGM to remember
One member gives his verdict
presentation about his career to date, was required to register so that those who
ALLAN BOURKE
mainly as a member of the Irish Defence were eligible to vote could be given their
This year, I attended my first Forces with whom he had seen service voting slips. This was chaired by
Mountaineering Ireland AGM, which was overseas, and how he saw his role with Mountaineering Ireland President Alan
held in the Glendalough Hotel in March. It Mountaineering Ireland developing. Tees and was very business-like. After the
was a very informative experience. However, he made it clear that his main officers reports a motion to change the
The AGM was held in the afternoon, but concern on the day of the AGM was to financial year end to reflect the calendar
in the morning there was an opportunity to listen to members opinions and to try to year was passed. It was emphasised that
explore the impressive surroundings of the understand their needs. this would not affect the membership year.
hotel, with suggested walks and also the Following Karls presentation there was a Following that, the election of the Honorary
possibility of some bouldering further up- general discussion, which was open to the Officers and ordinary Board members for a
valley. The weather was particularly good floor, but no major issues seemed evident. two-year term was held. Alan Tees stood
for early March, with a clear sky, bright The meeting then moved to the formal down from the chair of the meeting and
sunshine and relatively mild temperatures. I business of the AGM for which everyone was re-elected as President for another
started the day with a very pleasant walk term. Ross Millar and David Batt were re-
around the Upper Lake, which elected as Honorary Secretary and
incorporated the Spink boardwalk. Honorary Treasurer respectively. The other
After a soup and sandwiches lunch in Board members were then elected. The
the hotel, the afternoon kicked off with a meeting was closed by Ruair Conchir,
Members Forum. This was chaired by the who thanked those present for attending.
Mountaineering Ireland Chairperson, Ruair I found the meeting to be very
Conchir, who introduced himself and professionally run, being open and
went around the room to get attendees to democratic in the way it was conducted,
introduce themselves and give the name of and would recommend that more
the club, if any, that they were members should attend in the future. This
representing. They were also asked to success should give encouragement to
raise any relevant mountaineering issues the new professional staff as they settle
they would like to discuss at the meeting. into their new roles.
The new Mountaineering Ireland Chief
Officer, Karl Boyle, was then introduced to Allan Bourke is President of
the meeting. He gave a very interesting Knockadosan Dozen Hillwalking Club.
AGM venue: the Glendalough Hotel.

A figure from the Financial Accounts (for


12-month period to end of October 2009)
Information panels at the
showing breakdown of Mountaineering AGM in Glendalough Hotel.
Ireland Club Membership fee. Photo: Patrick OSullivan.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 9


On the summit
4winter meet of Cima Presena
(3069m).
Photo: Alan Tees.

Alpine Winter Meet 2010


Alan Tees hugely enjoyed the Mountaineering Ireland Winter Meet in Ponte di Legno in March.

THIRTeeN OF US hired a part of the right-hand icefall, we The group assembling


minibus at Bergamo airport for tackled the central one, which at Ponte di Legno.
the final leg of our journey to turned out to be considerably Photo: Alan Tees.
Ponte di Legno in the Adamello longer and steeper than it
Alps. These are just west of the looked. I had only one 8mm
Brenta Dolomites and about a rope and six ice screws, thanks
two-hour leisurely drive from the to the airline weight restrictions,
airport. On arrival in Ponte di and had to get lowered down to
Legno, we settled into the Hotel take out previous screws,
Pineta, which proved a replacing them higher. Three
comfortable and hospitable pitches later, we were at the
base for our activities. There top. The ice was perfect and
were about thirty of us in total did not appear to have been
there for the Winter Meet, a climbed on before.
mixture of club and individual The weather continued to be
members of Mountaineering perfect and Fintan, who lives in
Ireland. Zurich, had his Land Rover
The first day, we ascended by available, so on Wednesday we
cable car to over 2000m, where decided to attempt Cima Cadi,
we all undertook the mandatory one of the objectives of the
training on snowshoeing, group who were staying in the
avalanche awareness and Refuge Alpini. We snowshoed
transceiver use (a sort of hide up, being very grateful for their
and seek). The place was tracks in the otherwise deep villages of Temu and Vezza. Presidential Ditty, and we were
swarming with skiers, who very snow on the upper slopes, and The Friday, and the last of the off home in the morning.
much had the right of way! met them on their way down. predicted clear spell, saw four This area would also be well
On Tuesday, while some went We managed to climb Cima of us heading up to climb Cima worth a visit in the summer, with
on a snowshoeing/navigation Cadi (2449m) and the views Presena, at 3069m the highest steep dramatic peaks, glaciers,
course and others went off to a from the top were magnificent. easily accessible peak in the sharp ridges, a network of
hut, a fellow North West MC The group from the Refuge area. It was straightforward but paths and huts as good as can
member and I followed Italo, the Alpini also climbed Cima Verde. magic and, to extend the day be found anywhere, handy for
guide, up into the Val Bione On Thursday, while a big somewhat, we did the ridge on the Dolomites, via ferrata and,
and, while he took his ice party went snow-holing, we Cornicciola Di Presena (2922m), of course, Italian food, wine and
climbers course on the lower took a rest day, visiting the local which was exciting enough in weather. There is already an
parts. Others were out and Irish connection particularly
Instructors demonstrating an avalanche block.... about on a variety of activities, with Kerry and Tralee MC
putting the various aspects of have certainly been there more
their training to good effect! than once!
The expected snow on Thanks and congratulations
Saturday did not materialise, to Kieron McCreevy and his
but it was cloudy. While the team for organising the weeks
organised group went up activities. The combination of
Presena, I went back up the Val snow, sun, pasta and Chianti
Bione with a group who wanted made a refreshing change from
to sample ice climbing, and the more familiar Scottish winter
again the ice was wonderful. experience, and I hope it
We had a last evening meal, becomes a regular event in the
Photos: with the thanks and the Mountaineering Ireland calendar.
Alan Tees.

10 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


news3

Death of Slovenian climbing legend


Toma Humar dies tragically in Nepal

SLOVeNIAN the greatest active mountaineer in the he also climbed Pumori, Nuptse and
CLIMBeR Toma world. He completed over 1,500 ascents Shisha Pangma, as well as several other
Humar died during and won a number of mountaineering and smaller peaks. In 1997, he made a solo
a solo attempt on other awards, including the Piolet dOr in ascent of el Capitan via Reticent Wall.
the unclimbed 1996 for his ascent of Ama Dablam. He Humar wrote: every mountain has its
South Face of emulated Reinhold Messners tactics of soul. If the mountain doesnt accept you
Lantang Lirung climbing fast and light in a pure alpine and you dont submit to her will, she will
(7227m) in northern style, carrying no oxygen and only basic ruin you.
Nepal last November, equipment. He first came to international
at the age of 40. attention after his 1999 solo ascent of the May he rest in peace.
Humar had contacted his South Face of Dhaulagiri (8167m). In 2007,
base support team earlier in the week and he soloed the South Face of Annapurna Toma Humar, mountaineer, born February
reported that he had fallen and suffered a (8091m). Of the bigger Himalayan peaks, 18th, 1969, died November 10th, 2009
broken leg and spinal injury at an altitude
of approximately 6300m. Sherpa rescuers
searched the area on the following two Langtang Lirung (7227m),
days by both foot and air but were unable
Langtang Himal, Nepal,
to locate Humar. Heavy snow hampered
where Humar met his fate.
the rescue effort after that because of
avalanche danger. eventually his body was
spotted, although it was a couple of
thousand feet lower than expected. He
had clearly fallen during the climb and
broken his spine and leg. Humars body
was finally recovered by a crack helicopter
rescue crew from Air Zermatt in
Switzerland.
This is not the first time that Toma
Humar had got into difficulty on a
Himalayan peak. In 2005, he attempted a
solo ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga
Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the
world. Humar was plucked from the face
in a daring helicopter rescue after four
days on a snowy ledge at 19,600 feet high
on the mountain.
While he was alive, Humar was probably

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 11


4news

IMRANews
Get all the latest news at www.mountainrescue.ie

Tramore AGM was memorable


PAUL WHITING dealing with the casualty; and eric Pirie,
Wilderness emergency Medical Services
ALL OF THe IMRA teams gathered in Institute (europe) Instructor, who gave an
Tramore, Co Waterford, in January for the overview of the casualty care syllabus
Associations annual conference and currently being used in the UK by the
AGM. The theme of this years conference Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotland
was Mountain Rescue: Local to Global. and Mountain Rescue england and
The conference was opened by Brian Wales.
Liam McCabe (Chair, IMRA), Ray Cowman
OShea, Labour TD for Tramore. This was The members of the Training and (Tramore Cliff & Mountain Rescue), Katya
followed by the launch of a new Mountain Development Group and the Medical Hanson (New Jersey Search & Rescue),
Rescue logo and collection boxes for the Sub-Committee then met to review their Gebhard Barbisch (Austrian Mountain
Rescue). Photo: Tom Pfeiffer.
teams. These will be launched publicly work in 2009 and plan their activities for
later this year. 2010. There was also a media workshop
There followed a screening of a 15- (Amateur Radio enthusiasts Network),
for team members not attending either of
minute video of the highlights of the 2009 Industrial Safety and Rope Techniques
these meetings.
International Commission for Alpine (ISRT), Paramo, Terra-Nova, extremities,
These meetings were followed by a
Rescue (IKAR) conference, held in Pad, Rab and Decisions for Heroes.
very entertaining talk by Katya Hanson of
Zermatt in September. It was produced New Jersey Search and Rescue, which Thanks are due to all these manufacturers
by Topograph Media and was part- focused on a popular concept in the US for giving their support and for
funded by a number of international MR called Preventative Search and Rescue demonstrating their latest gear.
bodies, including IMRA. (PSAR). This is an educational Distinguished service awards were
The invited speakers included: Gebhard programme aimed mainly at school-aged presented to the following:
Barbisch, Regional Commander of the children about safety in the outdoors and Mick Stynes (Dublin & Wicklow MRT);
Austrian Mountain Rescue Service what to do if lost or separated from your Joe Dowdall of North West MRT for
(AMRS) for the state of Vorarlberg, who group. his service to IMRA as the Secretary from
described how the Austrians integrate The conference finished with a meeting 2000 to 2001 and Chair from 2002 to
IKAR recommendations into the various for Team Leaders, while the rest of the 2003;
levels of AMRS; Dan Hourihan, President members attended a lively discussion Diarmaid Scully (Glen of Imaal MRT)
of the National Association of Search and where three teams described the gear for his service to IMRA as the Treasurer
Rescue (USA), who discussed the they carried on call-outs. from 2000 to 2003;
benefits of international and national There were a large number of trade Pat Holland (South eastern Mountain
representation when youre a rescuer exhibitors at the conference this year, Rescue Association) for his service to
hanging on the pointy end of the rope including Irish eMS, Satmap, AReN IMRA as the Chair from 2004 to 2006.

Continued on page 14....

Guests of Honour and members of Tramore Cliff and Mountain Rescue Team, organisers of the conference, at Tramore. Photo: Tom Pfeiffer.

12 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


4IMRA news

The excellent after-dinner talk was by


renowned Northern Ireland mountaineer Banjo
Bannon, on his life and climbs.
At the AGM, IMRA Chair Liam McCabe
Banjo Bannon (SeMRA) stepped down after seven years of
Upcoming IMRA events
working for IMRA, the three most recent as Chair and
four years as Secretary. The current Secretary, Mary Mullins Exchange trip to Austria in June
(SeMRA), retired after three years service. Our return visit to the sterreicher Bergrettungsdienst (Austrian
Seamus Bradley (Donegal MRT) was elected Chair and Gerry Mountain Rescue Service) as part of the eU exchange of
Butler (Dublin & Wicklow MRT) the new Secretary. Norman experts programme will take place in June 2010. A senior
Purdy (Mourne MRT) continues as Treasurer. delegation consisting of at least either the team leader or deputy
Our thanks to the staff of the Majestic Hotel and to the local team leader from each of our twelve teams will travel to the
host team, the Tramore Cliff and Mountain Rescue Team, for a Austrian state of Vorarlberg. This trip is part of the research into
very successful and enjoyable weekend. Tramore is one of the the development of an all-island Mountain Rescue pre-plan
smallest teams, with only fifteen members, but they organised following a number of rescues over the past five years which
a very memorable conference. The 2011 AGM will be in Sligo. have required every team to respond.

* * * * * * * IMRA to host Ireland and UK conference


During the cold snap earlier this year, Mountain Rescue In September, IMRA will host the Ireland and UK Mountain
teams were able to practice their snow and ice mountaineering Rescue Conference. This bi-annual conference is normally held
skills. A number were called out to deal with motorists who in either Stirling, Scotland, or Lancaster, england, and the last
became stranded in the wintry conditions. The public should be time it was held in Ireland was 1996. Over 300 mountain
aware that in these situations the teams will rescue the people rescuers from the Republic, Northern Ireland, Scotland, england,
in the vehicle, but not the vehicle. The owner must deal with Wales and further afield will come to Dublin to discuss the latest
that later, when the roads have cleared. rescue developments; the theme will be: Mountain Rescue: Our
Future Role.
For more information about Mountain Rescue in
Ireland, please visit www.mountainrescue.ie

4news

News from the Greater Ranges


Irish success on Lhotse Climate change in the Himalayas
THe FIRST IRISH ascent of Lhotse (8516m) was successfully MOUNTAINeeRS met in Copenhagen on last years International
completed by Domhnaill Dochartaigh with a mixed nationality Mountain Day (11 December 2009) to raise awareness about the
group on 20 May, 2009. Lhotse, which is in Nepal, south of impact of climate change on the Himalayas.
everest and connected to it by the South Col, is the fourth Climate change has seriously affected the Himalayas in general
highest mountain in the world. and Nepal in particular. Its effects are being seen in different
There were apparently unsuccessful attempts by Irish climbers ways, including in the rapid increase in the size of glacial lakes,
on Cho Oyu, Pumori and Baruntse in 2009. Fergus White and the erratic monsoon patterns and the unprecedented forest fires.
Michael Noonan attempted Pumori (7161m), which is 8km west Although it is one of the countries in the world that emits the
of everest on the Nepal-Tibet border, in a mixed nationality least greenhouse gases, Nepal is one of the most vulnerable
group. Pumori means Unmarried Daughter in the Sherpa countries to the impacts of climate change, a fact that has been
language and was named this by George Mallory. largely ignored in the global climate debate so far.
Banjo Bannon successfully climbed Ama Dablams SW Ridge High profile events were planned across europe to build up
(6812m) with two Americans. interest in this important event on International Mountain Day.
It was a very bad year for avalanches in the Himalayas. One World renowned mountaineers then came together in
blocked the entrance to the tunnel under the Salang Pass in Copenhagen to raise awareness of the climatic risks and
Afghanistan, which connects northern Afghanistan and Kabul opportunities in the Himalayas. A street carnival was held in the
Province, and 166 people died from fumes or extreme cold. streets of Copenhagen during which hundreds of summiteers,
Troops in the Indian Army were also killed by avalanches near including Apa Sherpa and Dawa Steven Sherpa, and friends of
Gulmarg in Kashmir and in the Siachen Valley. Nepal highlighted the issue of the effect of climate change on the
Himalayas.

14 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010


news3

Can you help fill the gaps? IN BRIEF


Glover 2010
North West Mountaineering Club is
intending to run the Glover this year on
Donegal Rockclimbing Guide needs your input September 11th, as part of the clubs
55th anniversary celebrations. Contact
PeTeR COOPeR, Josephine Hegarty for details at
President of the gloverwalk@googlemail.com.
Colmcille Climbing Club
and editor of the new
Please return Joey
Donegal Rockclimbing
Glover Plaque
Guidebook due out in North West Mountaineering Club has
Spring 2011, is asked that the person who forcibly
appealing for assistance removed the Joey Glover Plaque from
with the guide. errigal kindly return it to them. It could
be left at errigal Youth Hostel for
Preparation for the
collection.
guidebook is underway
and climbers need to be
adding new routes and Spectacles found on the
making comments Reeks
about existing routes on A pair of wire-rimmed mens spectacles
were found just below the summit of
the online guidebook at
Caher (on the Cathair na Finne side) on
the Colmcille Climbers 14th February 2010. Call 087-660 9766
website. Peter is also for further information.
appealing for
photographs of first
ascents, historical
Congratulations
Alan Poots from County Down
photos (especially from completed the Munros in July 2009. His
the 1950s, 1960s and first Munro was Ben More on Mull,
1970s) and good which he climbed in 1991. eighteen
Donegal shots. Links years later, at the age of 60, he
and jpegs can be completed his round of all 284 by
Colmcille climber Dave Millar scaling Spidean Mialach in July 2009.
on the 2nd ascent of Phoenix
e-mailed to him at
petercooper@yahoo.co.uk. (HVS) on Skildren Mor,
Malin Head, Co Donegal. Members discount
Photo: Peter Cooper.
A 15% Mountaineering Ireland
members discount is now available at
Lindsays Outdoor Store, Ballycastle
Alan Tees on Springbok Road, Coleraine. Stockists of most main
(VS) at Crocanaffrain, Change of scenery brands, they carry a comprehensive
Fanad peninsula,
Co Donegal.
for Climbfest 2010 stock of the excellent Paramo range.
Photo: Peter
Cooper. NeGOTIATIONS regarding camping are in
process to have the 2010 Climbfest on Car break-ins in Glencree
Cars are being broken into in the Crone
Cruit Island in Glencolmcille, Co Donegal,
Wood car park in Glencree, Co
from 1st to 3rd May. This is an idyllic area Wicklow, by a seemingly professional
beside the beach and there are many gang with electronic equipment. There
short granite routes within five minutes are reports of this happening in daylight
walk. Colmcille Climbers hope to run daily hours when there are lots of people
boats out to around, so it is better not to leave any
valuables, visible or not, in your car,
Owey and Gola,
when parking there.
and of course the
Bingorms and
Crohy Head are Correction
all nearby. We incorrectly credited photos on pages
37, 40 and 41 of issue 92 of the Irish
Mountain Log to Conny Connell. In fact
those photos were taken by Allegra
Lalor of the Ballyfermot Youth Service.
Our apologies for the error.

Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 15


4news

Mission accomplished
Tollymore National Outdoor Centre to reopen in April

TREVOR FISHER
Blog on to walking network
OVeR THe PAST YeAR, there has been considerable
redevelopment activity at Tollymore National Outdoor Centre.
The centre is set to reopen in April 2010, after a 5 million Facebook opens new chapter for
redevelopment, and will include many new facilities as well as walking in Northern Ireland
an upgrade of all existing facilities. The redevelopment was
funded by the Department of Culture, Arts and Leisure,
through Sport NI, who own and manage Tollymore.
Tollymore is located close to Bryansford, at the edge of
Tollymore Forest. As the National Outdoor Centre, it provides a
range of courses in many adventure sports, such as
rockclimbing, canoeing, hillwalking, mountain biking,
orienteering, coasteering and mountaineering. Courses are
provided at all levels, from non-residential Come and Try It-
type courses through to residential coach and instructor
training and assessment courses.
Tollymore staff are amongst the most experienced and
qualified around, so will have the ability to instruct, motivate, Northern Irelands leading walking website, WalkNI.com, has
enthuse and encourage you to participate in adventure sports recently launched a new campaign to enable it to reach out to
at any level! the wider online community. The new WalkNI Facebook and
New and improved facilities in the centre will include a Twitter pages will not only encourage young people to get out
purpose-built indoor kayaking pool, new indoor bouldering walking but will also keep experienced walkers up to date with
wall, training room, full catering facilities, twin en-suite the latest events and news to do with walking and hiking in
accommodation, a range of meeting rooms, coffee bar, and Northern Ireland.
vastly improved storage and administration areas. WalkNI.com has also launched a new online blog where a
Tollymore is owned and managed by Sport NI, and the whole host of well known guest bloggers will write about their
redevelopment will allow Tollymore to continue to provide a own walking and hiking experiences and express their personal
wide range of courses to individuals, groups and views on current issues regarding walking in Northern Ireland.
organisations, at all levels. These new online platforms will allow walkers to share stories,
tips, experiences, pictures and opinions with other like-minded
To find out more about Tollymore, go to www.tollymore.com individuals. You can click onto any of these sites from the home
or call 028 4372 2158. page of WalkNI.com.

16 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


news3

New quality walk


Loop walk established in the Sperrins
THe VINeGAR HILL LOOP is the latest way-marked trail to be
accredited as a quality walk by the Countryside Access and
Activities Network (CAAN).
The route starts and ends at Barnes Gap car park
approximately four miles from Gortin village and winds its way
through a beautiful part of the Sperrin Mountains. Barnes Gap
car park, which is the site of the old Barnes National School, is
well signed from Gortin and the B47 in the Glenally Valley. There
are toilets and picnic tables available. It shares parts of the route
with The Ulster Way and the Craignamaddy Circuit, so you can Pictured at the launch of the Vinegar Hill Loop Walk (L to R): Paddy
McGowan (chairman, Omagh District Council), Jane Somerville, Chris
mix and match to suit the time you have available.
Scott (CAAN), Christopher Somerville (with glasses), Karen Hope
The Vinegar Hill Loop is seven miles (12 kilometres) in length
(Northern Ireland Tourist Board), Aoife McGuigan, Martin McGuigan.
and takes about three hours to complete, not allowing for tea
break and photograph taking. It goes around the top edge of the agreed that it was a good walk that should be made accessible
desolate glen of Gortagashel and down past Vinegar Hill, leaving to the public. Martin, in association with the Omagh District
it to the right, then through a farm and onto a country road. It Council (ODC), then marked the route so that it could easily be
joins up with the Ulster Way at a small stand of conifer trees at followed around this lovely part of the Sperrins.
Garvagh and continues along a gravel lane which winds its way The route was officially launched in December. This is the third
around Mullaghbane back to the Gap. The low road can then be quality walk established by Martin for the ODC, the Robbers
followed back to the car park. Table and Bessy Bell east being the other two. Information about
Martin McGuigan and travel writer and broadcaster these walks and about any other walking routes in Northern
Christopher Somerville did the walk last November and both Ireland can be found on the WalkNI.com website.

Disabled encouraged to venture outdoors


South Pole explorer shows that disability is no barrier to enjoying great outdoors
MARK POLLOCK, the first blind man to reach the South Pole, line-up of speakers who provided inspiration to all involved in
shared his experiences at the Countryside Access and Activities developing strategies to make the outdoors accessible for all. CAAN
Network (CAAN) conference Venture Outdoors: Creating Healthy has great hopes for the Venture Outdoors project and the role it will
Communities, which took place on Thursday, December play in engaging with disabled, minority ethnic and disadvantaged
3rd, 2009, at Armagh City Hotel. communities in outdoor recreation.
Mark is a renowned motivational speaker and he The project evolved from the 'Barriers to Participation' research
provided a fascinating insight into his experiences which identified the following groups as unrepresented in the
after losing his sight and then racing in the countryside: disabled people, minority ethnic communities and those
worlds most extreme environments deserts, living in TSN areas. The project aims to address the barriers limiting
oceans, mountains and polar regions to inspire participation, as identified in the research report, so that these
others to redefine whats possible for them. communities are afforded equal opportunities to discover the joys of
The CAAN conference was chaired by Olive engaging in a host of countryside recreation activities and thereby
Brown, a director of Countryside Recreation enjoy the many advantages that this brings, particularly in terms of
Northern Ireland. The conference was designed to physical and mental health.
raise awareness of good practice programmes happening locally The three-year project being delivered by CAAN involves three key
and in the UK that strive towards engaging disabled, minority ethnic areas: training for activity providers, landowners and community
and disadvantaged individuals and groups in outdoor recreation. advocates; marketing including adaptation of websites, publications
Mark commented: Relying on a decade of personal experience and devising marketing campaigns; and finally participation in terms
and study of surviving and competing on the edge has been my way of the target groups involvement in taster sessions and building
of knowing that I can achieve my goals. In terms of today, the outdoor recreation networks which will sustain their new-found
conference has been about motivating and inspiring others to make passion.
it happen. For more information on the Venture Outdoors Creating Healthy
The conference was also the formal launch of the Venture Communities Project, contact Maeve Curran on 02890 303 939 or
Outdoors Creating Healthy Communities project being delivered by at maeve@countrysiderecreation.com, or visit
CAAN. Olive Brown commented: The event included an exciting www.countrysiderecreation.com.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 17


4news

Challenge Walks 2010


Including calendar of events

Binevenagh, Co Antrim.
Photo: NSPCC.

and back down again in a circular route


Julia Bradbury calls on walkers to support NSPCC that will require some preparation and a
reasonable level of fitness.
TV PReSeNTeR and outdoors enthusiast challenging and beautiful countryside in There are limited places available. The
Julia Bradbury is asking walkers to Northern Ireland. Money raised will be registration fee is 15 and it is for over
support the National Society for the used to support NSPCC projects and 18s only.
Prevention of Cruelty to Childrens work in services in Northern Ireland. For further details and online
fighting cruelty to children by taking part The route passes through the registrations and payments, log on to
in the charitys Hike Against Cruelty to Binevenagh Area of Outstanding Natural www.nspcc.org.uk/hack or contact the
Kids in Binevenagh on Northern Irelands Beauty which is part of the northernmost NSPCC Northern Ireland fundraising
north coast on 11 September 2010. outcropping of the Antrim plateau, and office at 028 9035 7970 from NI (048
The NSPCCs Binevenagh Challenge is takes walkers up to the summit of from the Republic), or e-mail
a 23-mile walk across some of the most Binevenagh Mountain, across the top, kwalker@nspcc.org.uk.

Footballer Ronnie Whelan to take Rocky Road to Dublin for charity


from Galway to Dublin. Walkers will
negotiate the Western Way, the Slieve
Bloom Mountains, St Kevins Way in
Glendalough and the coastal route from
Greystones to Dublin.
Covering a total distance of
approximately 130km, the walking routes
range from moderate to tough. Walkers
will have an opportunity to observe
Irelands abundant wildlife, take in
historical sights such as Glendalough and
walk in Connemaras uplands.
Walkers can choose to join Ronnie in all
stages of the challenge, or just join him on
one of the stages as he walks across
Ireland.
FORMeR IReLAND INTeRNATIONAL and
Liverpool footballer Ronnie Whelan will be Stage 1 The Western Way (Co Galway):
leading the Myasthenia Gravis Thursday 29 to Friday 30 April (50km).
Associations walking challenge to raise Stage 2 Slieve Bloom Mountains (Co
funds for the Association and to highlight Offaly): Saturday 1 May (16km).
the disease in Ireland. Stage 3 St Kevins Way (Co Wicklow):
Ronnie became a patron of the Sunday 2 May (30km).
Myasthenia Gravis Association when his Stage 4 Greystones to Dublin: Monday
daughter elizabeth was diagnosed with 3 May to Tuesday 4 May (35km).
the disease six years ago. For further information, please contact
Ronnie Whelans Rocky Road to Dublin Noomi egan of DHR Communications at
Walking Challenge will take place from 29 01-488 5808 or 087-230 9835 or 087-
April to 4 May and will cover four stages 744 9915.

18 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010


news3

14th August 2010


Organised Walks Calendar for 2010 Marathon Walk Western Way
Organised by Galway Walking Club, this
24th April 2010 May 2010 delightful walk journeys along the Western
Knockmealdowns Crossing Moyle Challenge Walk Way on both road and track, taking in the
Venue: Goatenbridge, Co Tipperary. Organised by the Northern Walking beautiful Killary Harbour and Maumean
A walk that is organised by the Peaks Partnership, the route includes forest and Pass. A full day but with a gentle incline.
Mountaineering Club and traverses the road walking and takes in some summits Distance: 42km. Total Ascent: 258m. (Half-
mountain ridge that follows the boundary including Slievenanorra. marathon option available.)
between Tipperary and Waterford. Distances: 20km and 32km.
Distances: there will be three graded walks August 2010
ranging from 8.5km to 29.5km. 22nd May 2010 Burren Walk
Information: www.peaksmcclonmel.ie. Blackstairs Walk Organisers: Burren Walking Club.
This walk is organised by the Wayfarers A combination of walks of 14km, 25km and
30th April - 3rd May 2010 Association and follows the Blackstairs 27km.
Achill Walks Festival Ridge along the border between Carlow and The Burren Walk is now being run by what
Organised by Achill Tourism, the Achill Wexford, beginning at Killanure. was the Galway VHF Group/Galway Civil
Walks Festival takes place over the May Distance: 26km. Total ascent: 1,525m. Defence and will, by tradition, be run every
Bank Holiday Weekend year on the last Saturday of August.
Distances: up to 10km and of 4 hours 22nd May 2010 Spectacular views across Galway Bay to
duration. Clare Burren Marathon Challenge Connemara and the Aran Islands feature on
Organised by the Ballyvaughan Fanore a lovely walk.
30th April - 3rd May 2010 Walking Club, this challenge has three Distances: 14km, 25km and 27km.
Ballyhoura Marathon Challenge variations with road walking, off-road
This walk is as organised as part of an walking and over the Burren. 11th September 2010
annual walking festival. The festival includes Distances: 6, 13 and 26 miles. Glover Walk
the marathon, designed especially for For details, contact Josephine Hegarty at
hillwalkers, a half-marathon, and walks 12th June 2010 gloverwalk@googlemail.com.
throughout the Ballyhoura and Galty ranges, Gus Tobin Galty Marathon
with new events such as the Universal A long-distance walk for experienced September 2010
Access Walk for people with disabilities and walkers over the Galty Mountains, including Burren Peaks Walking Festival Walks
a Geocache. Galtymore. Organised by the Ballyvaughan Fanore
Distances: up to 42km. Distance: 26km. Total ascent: 1,400m. Walking Club, there is a choice of walks of
varying grades which will take from 4 to 8
19th June 2010 hours to complete.
Circuit of Imaal
The Ring of Imaal long-distance walk is
organised by An ige and takes an average
of 8 hours to complete starting from
Donard. Full Moon Walks in Wicklow
Distance: 35km. Total ascent: 1,800m.
Hilltop Treks
3rd July 2010 organise walks in
1st 2nd May 2010 Comeragh Crossing Wicklow each
Wicklow and Glencree Walking Festival This walk is organised by the Dungarvan month on the night
Venue: Glencree Centre for Peace and Hillwalking Club and starts in Clonmel. It has of the full moon.
Reconciliation, Co Wicklow. a number of variations to cater for walkers When they
Activities will include two Guided Hill Walks, of differing abilities. arranged a Full
Basic Map Reading, Hill Walking Basics and Distance: 30-40km. Total ascent: 1,150- Moon Walk on 30
Wellness Packages. Proceeds in aid of the 1920m. January 2010, the participants gathered in
Glencree Centre. enniskerry and made their way to
Information: www.walkaboutwicklow.com. 17th July 2010 Curtlestown Wood. They followed the
Joyce Country Challenge Wicklow Way and headed for the top of
This walk is organised by the Lake District Prince Williams Seat, where there was still
Hillwalking Club and includes mountain snow on the ground. When they reached
plateaux, artes and a lovely Lake Loop. the top, they could see for miles in all
There are various routes for walkers of directions in the moonlight. The Glencullen
differing abilities. Valley, Maulin and the Sugarloaf were all
Distance: 30km. Total ascent: 1,900m. visible; there was no need for head torches.
When they re-entered the woods below,
2nd May 2010 7th August 2010 they stopped for a break before returning to
Donegal Bluestacks Walking Festival Mourne Sevens their vehicles and travelling back to
Organised by the Bluestack Ramblers The Mourne Seven Sevens Walk takes in, enniskerry in time for a drink before heading
Walking Club, this festival is based in amongst others, the seven higher home.
Donegal town. There will be two grades of mountains of the Mourne Mountains. It For more information about these walks,
walk. allows walkers to choose their own routes. visit www.hilltoptreks.ie/fullmoon.htm or
Distances: from 4 to 7 hours duration. Distance: 28km. Total ascent: 2,495m. email Info@Hilltoptreks.ie.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 19


4news

Leave No
Trace Trainer
Leave No Trace
Courses in Principle 7
2010 ring that is already there. There are two ways
BEVERLEY PIERSON
St Columbs Park House, to make a low-impact fire: you can make
Derry This is the last in the current series of articles either a pan fire or a mound fire. (Please refer
12-14 March about the principles of Leave No Trace and to page 20 of the LNT Skills and ethics
2-4 April covers the 7th principle. Booklet for more information).
9-11 April When choosing your wood for a fire,
For more information and to book, Minimise the Effects of Fire always use dead and downed wood. Never
please contact Shane at break off branches from trees for firewood, as
In gaining the lovely and the usable, we
naturalhighnw@hotmail.co.uk. this scars the trees.
have given up the incomparable. Wallace
No matter which technique you use to
Stegner
Ballinreeshig Nature build a fire, there are certain things that
Farm, Cork Fires have been around for a long time. should always be remembered:
13-14 March Traditionally, campfires go hand in hand with
For more information and to book, camping, and they are often considered a Fires are inappropriate in fragile
please email William at social activity when camping. On the other environments!
wohalloran@gmail.com. hand, fires can cause devastating impacts Never leave a fire unattended
on the environment, including ruining the Burn the wood completely to ash
Tollymore Mountain ground underneath and causing habitats to Saturate the ash with water and stir the
Centre, Newcastle, be lost. remains
Co Down Campfires also have the potential to cause Scatter all the ashes widely
12-13 June wildfires: such fires are set either carelessly Restore the appearance of the fire site
4-5 September or accidentally by uninformed campers and
11-12 December travellers. For more information on Leave No Trace,
159 per person (price includes Fires often look beautiful at night but they please visit www.leavenotraceireland.org.
accommodation, food and look unsightly by day when the large, sooty (Beverley Pierson, Development Officer,
transport). Please download fire-rings they leave are visible to other Leave No Trace)
booking form from visitors.
http://www.tollymore.com/Tollymor As appropriate clothing and
e/Booking. equipment for keeping warm have
been developed, the need for
Resources for LNT campfires has decreased. So, do
trainers we really need to light fires at all?
LNT Ireland has made it easier for Many lasting impacts of fires can
LNT teachers with the following be avoided by considering the
resources: following advice:
Firstly, you need to check
A wide range of games to help whether the area you are visiting
teach LNT has rules and regulations about
Guidelines for delivering lighting fires. In most national
Awareness Sessions on LNT parks, protected areas and
Feedback Forms for Awareness forestry plantations there are
Sessions & Trainer Courses complete fire bans. The best thing
A new template for Trainers & to do is check before you go so
Master educators to complete that, if fires arent allowed, you
Awareness Session & Trainer have adequate clothing to keep
Course reports. you warm and equipment to cook
food, i.e. a stove.
These resources are now available If you intend to build a fire (after
on the LNT website (Training page) checking that they are permitted
at www.leavenotraceireland.org/ and that the weather conditions
Training.aspx. are appropriate), consider building
a low-impact fire or using a fire

20 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


news3

Training opportunities
Workshops on offer from mountain skills training providers
MIA trainee workshops While exploring the upland areas, it is important that hillwalkers
The Ireland South section of the Association of Mountaineering are self-sufficient and can use a map, navigate off the hills should
Instructors (AMI) is running a number of training workshops for mist and cloud descend, and know what to do in an emergency.
Mountaineering Instructor Award (MIA) trainees as part of a roll-out Nathan Kingerlee of Outdoors Ireland is hoping that the Mountain
of a new CPD programme. Trainees from the whole island of Safety Promotion, happening on both Sunday 11th and Sunday
Ireland are welcome to participate. Below are the dates, venues 18th April, will equip participants with extra skills and confidence to
and skills covered in each workshop: enjoy hillwalking more fully.
15-16 May: Improvised Rescues (Dalkey Quarry, Dublin) Participants are asked to pay what they think their workshop is
17-18 July: Teaching Multi-pitch Climbing (Wicklow) worth, once theyve covered the initial workshop cost of 45 per
25-26 September: Short Roping & Scrambling (Kerry) person.
30-31 October: Teaching Lead Climbing (Dalkey) For more details and bookings, visit the website
To express interest and/or book a place on one or all of these www.outdoorsireland.com or contact +353 (0) 86 860 45 63.
workshops (places limited to 8), please contact Dave Gaughran,
AMI Sub-group Representative, Republic of Ireland, at mountain- Free specialist mountaineering skills workshops
training@ireland.com or 087-820 8907. Over the course of 2010, a number of free workshops will be run
around the country for individuals who hold an ML award and are
Find yourself in Wicklow interested in moving on towards their MIA training. These
Outdoors Ireland is running a Mountain Safety Promotion in the workshops will focus on the development of personal
Wicklow Mountains this April. The intensive days will give mountaineering skills as well as on informing participants about the
hillwalkers an opportunity to improve their map-reading skills, Mountain Instructor scheme and the role of MIAs and MICs in
develop safety awareness, take compass bearings and deal with mountain training. For more information, please contact Dave
emergencies, while working in small groups. Gaughran at mountain-training@ireland.com or on 087-820 8907.

Volunteers have a very good year


Mountain Meitheal group to build more paths by hand. Why not join them?
MOUNTAIN MeITHeAL is to be congratulated for all of the
voluntary work that its members undertook in 2009.
During those twelve months, Mountain Meitheal worked on
four projects and clocked up a record-breaking 2,154 volunteer
hours.
The first of the projects was the boardwalk in Cruagh Wood,
opening up a new access route in partnership with the Dublin
Mountains Partnership.
The group also built an Adirondack-type shelter on the
Wicklow Way at Paddock Hill.
Thirdly, they constructed a raised treadway as part of the
Dublin Mountain Way at Cruagh Wood, which was funded by the
Irish Ramblers Club.
Finally, they started work on a stone-pitched track on Three
Rock Mountain.
After such a successful year, Mountain Meitheal took a break
until the end of February, when their planned workdays started
again. The workdays will continue every fortnight, alternating
between Sundays and Saturdays until November. If you are
available on any of these dates, Mountain Meitheal would greatly
appreciate your support.
For more information on Mountain Meitheal and the dates of Mountain Meitheal volunteers
their workdays this year, take a look at their website at build a treadway at Cruagh Wood
www.pathsavers.org. in the Dublin Mountains.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 21


4youth

Irish Bouldering League


Looking back at last season, looking forward to the next

STEPHEN McMULLAN

THe IRISH BOULDeRING LeAGUe (IBL) continues to go


from strength to strength. In the five rounds of the 2009-
2010 series there were five Junior Female competitors, 23
Junior Male competitors, 57 Female competitors and 156
Male competitors.
The major achievement of the series was attracting a
new sponsor, Patagonia. This has proven a very
satisfactory arrangement indeed, with very high quality
prizes available to the winners and runners-up of the four
categories. Approximately 1,000 worth of prizes was
available for each of the five rounds, with the overall
league prize fund also being of the order of 1,000.
No funding was sought this year from Mountaineering
Ireland as it was a specific aim of the competition series
to be self-sufficient and raise funds from sponsorship,
advertising and entry fees. Mountaineering Ireland do,
however, continue to greatly assist the running of the
competition series by taking a place on the organising
team, providing advice and guidance on competition
format and extending the insurance policy cover for the
organisers to allow for event management duties such as
are necessary for the IBL. Particular thanks must go to
Angela Carlin of Mountaineering Ireland in that respect.
Special thanks must also go to Dave Hunt, owner of
Irish Climbing Online website (www.climbing.ie), for
donating 950 raised in advertising revenue to the
competition series.
Wed also like to thank all the venues who contributed
their facilities, often at no cost to the League. These were
Dublin City University; PlayAtHeight, Dingle; National
University of Ireland, Galway; St Colmans College,
Midleton; and Tollymore Mountain Centre, Co Down.
Tara ONeill climbing in IBL
My personal thanks go to all the organisers of the IBL Round 5 at the National
over the two years of my tenure as chief organiser: Dave Mountain Centre, Tollymore.
Hunt, Nicole Mullen, Joan Mulloy, Angela Carlin, Damien Photo: Robert Doherty (Uberdog Magazine).
OSullivan, Ricky Young, Matt Davis, Juan ORaw, amon
Riain, Malcolm OBeirn and Jonathan Mullen.
Next years series will be co-ordinated by Nicole Mullen. I wish
her the best of luck and sincerely hope that everyone shows
Results: IBL League 2009-2010
(Full results available on www.climbing.ie)
Nicole the same level of support that has been graciously shown
to me over the last two years. JUNIOR GIRLS FEMALE
Volunteers are always welcome and, if anyone is interested in 1st Carla McGrath 1st Hannah Fogg
helping to organise next years events in Dublin, Dingle, Galway, 2nd Niamh Hebblethwaite 2nd Jane Gallwey
Midleton or Tollymore, please contact ibl@climbing.ie. We are 3rd Victoria Colligan 3rd Patricia Fox
particularly interested in having clubs local to the venues acting
as hosts for the competitions. JUNIOR BOYS MALE
Last but not least, my sincere thanks to all the competitors for 1st Jordan O Donovan 1st Harry Fogg
making it such a fun set of events to organise, and my heartiest 2nd Ciaran Rogers 2nd Jerome Legare
congratulations to the winners of the final round at Tollymore and 3rd Austin OCurrain 3rd eoin Kennedy
the overall winners of the series.

22 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


youth3

Cragging weekend at Lower Cove


On the first activity weekend I organised also headed for the First Corner with a
as Youth Development Officer for few of the older, more experienced group
Northern Ireland, we headed to Lower members. They started with a gentle
Cove, one of the premier crags in the warm-up on Gynacrat, a steep finger
heart of the Mournes. The crew consisted crack, and then, stepping it up another
of 16 young people (aged 12-17) and five grade, geared up for Meatgrinder, a
qualified instructors. mega-classic e2, and finished with the
The youngsters were full of energy and one move wonder of Overdue.
walked in at a blistering pace, leaving the That evening, we discussed plans for Cragging at Lower Cove.
staff far behind. When we all gathered the next day, the majority opting to go Photo: Paul Swail.
again, the different options were back to Lower Cove, with three opting for
discussed and the participants headed off a gentle walk. Weekends like this are a great way for
in groups with their instructors. On the Sunday, we divided up again young people to experience what the
With our group, Danny and I walked up and started into Annalong Valley. Stephen mountains have to offer, in a real climbing
the steep gully of Pillar Variant. This is a took a few youngsters caving through environment. These youth mountaineering
classic two-pitch severe. I positioned Cove Cave, continuing on up through weekends are open to young people
myself at the top of the first pitch and Devils Coach Road and finishing with a throughout Ireland. All that is asked for is
Danny went to the top of the route. Both horseshoe of Slieve Beg and Cove that you are enthusiastic about climbing,
belays were very spacious and it was a Mountain. hillwalking or mountaineering.
great opportunity to get the group For the climbers, the morning started A special thanks to the staff that came
members belaying each other. out very chilly. With the high ratio of along for the weekend: eddie Hawkins,
eddie and Ciaran took their group to instructors to group members, we were Ciaran Kinney, Danny ONeill, Ricky Bell
First Corner Buttress. Some of them able to have a bit of multi-pitch fun. The and Stephen Sames, and to Tollymore
hadnt climbed before, so this area was multi-pitch routes included Brewers Mountain Centre for the use of the mini-
ideal, offering some of the best Gloom, a three-pitch severe, and Dots bus. (Paul Swail, Youth Development
introductory routes in the Mournes. Ricky Delight Direct, a superb two-pitch e1. Officer, Northern Ireland)

Youth Climbing Series: Round 1 Bouldering at Hotrock Climbing Wall.


Photo: John Miskelly Photography.

THe YOUTH CLIMBING SeRIeS (YCS) is a competition series for young


climbers aged 8-16, jointly organised by the British Mountaineering Council,
Mountaineering Council of Scotland and Mountaineering Ireland. Regional
rounds take place across the UK, followed by a final, to be held this year at the
edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho.
The 2010 YCS kicked off on Saturday 30th January at Hotrock Climbing Wall.
There was a real buzz at this years first round, with 36 competitors taking part
and a good number of parents coming along to show their support. People had
travelled from all over Northern Ireland, and further afield, with Dublin, Galway
and Sligo all being represented.
The routes and problems had been set by eddie Cooper, Ricky Young and
Paul Swail, and were designed to challenge everyone from the youngest
competitor to the eldest and most experienced. All of the competitors had to
attempt three routes and three boulder problems, with the difficulty increasing
and more points gained for each hold reached.
All of the competitors put in a fantastic effort, but at the end there were clear
winners in each category. Rachel Cooper won the top place in the 14-16 female
category, with Yolanda and Vanessa Woods in 2nd and 3rd places. Andrew
Colligan, Vincenz Wrle and David Hopkins took the 1st, 2nd and 3rd places in
the 14-16 male category. In the 11-13s, Jamie Rankin finished first in the male,
with Saul Calvert close behind, while in the 11-13 females eleanor Lawrence
finished ahead of Victoria Colligan on the routes, despite Vickys excellent
performance in the bouldering. The 8-10 winners were Martin Cervenka and
Miriam Woods.
Thanks again to everyone who helped out, to Tollymore Mountain Centre for
the use of the wall and to Jackson Sports and Cotswold for their
sponsorship. (Angela Carlin, Coaching Development Officer, Northern Ireland)

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 23


4hillwalking

In the Glass House Mountains


Anthony Toole goes down under to Queensland

Ngungun summit with first saw Queenslands prominent pillars, eleven in all, named simply Lookout 589, which
Tibrogargan and
Beerburrum in the
background.
Photo: Anthony Toole.
I Glass House Mountains
from a coach, while
travelling between Brisbane
standing proud of the plains.
The Aboriginal people have a much
more colourful story. In the dreamtime
legend, nine of the peaks are the
was surrounded on three sides by the
Glass House Mountains.
Craggy Coonowrin, the second
highest, looked quite formidable.
and Frazer Island. Though children of the other two. During a Unfortunately, for the past decade,
not high, with only the tsunami, the biggest of the children, climbing it had been forbidden
tallest of them, Beerwah, Coonowrin, showed cowardice by a because of its instability. For the past
reluctance to help his pregnant couple of years, Beerwah had also
rising above 400 metres,
mother, Beerwah, escape. His furious been out-of-bounds, as a result of a
their spiky outlines father, Tibrogargan, struck him, rock fall. Anyone caught climbing
completely dominate the flat breaking his neck, with the result that these would be subject to a fine. I did,
farmlands and forests that Coonowrin is sometimes referred to as however, later meet a couple of
run west from the beaches Crookneck. Australians who had dodged the
of the Sunshine Coast. My second view of the mountains cordon and climbed Beerwah.
came five years later, while I was It was thus the third highest, 364-
They were named by Captain James returning to Brisbane from the metre-tall Tibrogargan, that drew my
Cook in 1770 as he sailed north Sunshine Coast. This more leisurely attention, and from this proximity it
towards the Great Barrier Reef. Their survey, from the Wild Horse Mountain was indeed impressive. Very steep on
aspect and the manner in which the lookout, to the east of the Bruce all sides, its forest covering was cut by
sun glinted from their crags reminded Highway, merely added to my resolve a jagged, white gash, which looked
him of the glass-manufacturing that, should I ever come here again, nearly vertical, but offered the only
furnaces in his native Yorkshire. They then I would need to make an effort to route of ascent.
consist of rhyolite plugs, created by climb some of them. While I was anticipating the climb, a
volcanic activity some 26 million years The opportunity arrived in January television van pulled up, and a
ago. The surrounding, softer rocks 2010. While travelling to Noosa, I cameraman began filming a news
subsequently eroded, leaving the detoured to a closer vantage point presenter describing the dangers of

24 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


hillwalking3

climbing these hills. The previous


three days had seen two rescues of
injured climbers from Ngungun, one
of the smaller of the Glass House
Mountains.
The following day, which the nation
was to celebrate as Australia Day, I left
Noosa at 4:30am. I was expecting,
correctly as it turned out, a day as
stiflingly hot as its predecessor. At
around 6:00am, shortly after dawn, I
arrived at the car park at the foot of view from here spread out past the until the afternoon. Climbing
Tibrogargan. peaks to the south, and east to A few minutes drive brought us to Tibrogargan.
A young German, Robin Schultz, Moreton Island and the resorts of the the foot of Mount Ngungun. At 253 Photo: Anthony
was just leaving his car, so we agreed Sunshine Coast. I looked at my watch. metres, this is one of the lower and Toole.
to continue together. Robin was on a It was still only 7:00am. less precipitous of the Glass House
round-the-world trip, which he was After a short time on the summit, Mountains. The track, quite rough and
partly financing by working for a few devoted largely to re-hydration, we steep in parts, though with no
weeks at a nearby farm. retraced our steps, passing an scrambling, led past two crags, on
The track wound its way through increasing number of others, who both of which were small parties of
woodland, then zig-zagged steadily were climbing Tibrogargan to celebrate rock climbers. Though the days heat
uphill. Already the mosquitoes were the national holiday. A few of these was making itself felt, the ascent was
beginning to bite. Then the forest were clearly not happy with the relatively short, and the summit soon
opened out to reveal the lowest pitch scramble or its exposure. Some beckoned through the trees.
of that white gash I had seen the retreated, others continued, drawing A final rocky slab led up to a narrow
previous day. encouragement from their ridge and a sudden, and unexpected,
At a first glance, this did not look companions. view of Beerwah and Coonowrin, Coonowrin with
easy. Then three others descended it, Beerwah behind
On arrival at the car park, we agreed directly in line with each other and
from Ngungun
with a rapidity that suggested it might that it was early enough to climb Ngungun. The ridge led, with only a summit.
not be as difficult as it appeared. something else before it became too minimal gradient, to the summit. Photo: Anthony
Indeed, they had climbed the peak at hot. Robin would not be starting work From here, the view was finer Toole.
3:00am, and had remained on the
summit to watch the sunrise.
On closer acquaintance, the route
turned into an enjoyable scramble,
steep, a little exposed in places, but
not of a difficulty that would qualify it
as a rock climb. Sometimes it went up
stepped corners, sometimes up more
open slabs, but the holds were always
there, and by moving to the sides, a
way could usually be found to avoid
any real problems.
Each section ran upward for around
twenty or thirty metres, with rubble-
strewn breaks linking them. On either
side grew shrubbery. Though dense,
this was sufficiently open not to
obscure the view, which rapidly
extended across the flatlands toward
Beerwah and Coonowrin, and served
to emphasise the steepness of the
ascent.
After a couple of hundred metres,
the gradient eased and the track
narrowed, picking its way through a
series of taller shrubs, from which
hung numerous spiders webs. The
vegetation on the summit grew deep
and hid the view, but the track
continued down for a short distance
and out onto a belvedere at the top of
a crag.
Despite its low stature, Tibrogargan
was steep enough to feel big, and the

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 25


4hillwalking

The belvedere, altogether than that from Tibrogargan. that this ritual is a common sight on work in the afternoon. I, in contrast,
Tibrogargan summit. No vegetation obscured it, and it ran Mt Ngungun during the summer. would be returning to Noosa, to
Photo: Anthony Toole. in a full circle around the entire Glass We arrived back at the foot of spend the afternoon on the beach.
House region. Hundreds of butterflies, Ngungun just after 10:00am. The heat With Beerwah and Coonowrin
though perhaps only of two or three was now becoming oppressive, and being, for the near future at least, out-
Below: different varieties, flew back and forth would preclude any pleasure on of-bounds, Tibrogargan and Ngungun
Ngungun summit. across the ridge, accompanied by as further ascents. As I bid Robin are certainly the best of the Glass
Photo: Anthony Toole. many colourful dragonflies. It seems farewell, I did not envy his having to House Mountains to climb.
Beerburrum has a good, broad track
to its summit. The rest of the peaks do
not have designated tracks, though
there are ways through the bush on
most of them. And there are
numerous walks around their bases.
While they are not high and can be
climbed in a short time, the Glass
House Mountains are nevertheless
unique and of such striking
appearance as to be irresistibly
attractive to any mountaineer. g

Anthony Toole is a member of the


Outdoor Writers and Photographers
Guild, and a member of Writers and
Photographers Unlimited.
Website: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/
anthonytoole
e-mail: anthonytoole@fsmail.net

26 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


4mountaineering hillwalking3

In the Home of Giants


Mary Carr explores Norways Jotunheimen National Park

t was a cold, wet about a two-hour bus journey from take us north to Otta, a town whose Looking back down

I August bank
holiday Saturday
the city itself. Surrounded by islands
and forested hills, Oslo is the oldest of
the Nordic capitals. It is found at the
end of one of Norways most beautiful
major claim to fame is that it boasts a
statue of Pillarguri. During the Kalmar
War of 1611-13, Pillarguri alerted the
locals to the imminent arrival of
the Bandet from
Besseggen Ridge.
Photo: Mary Carr.

in Dublin when four fjords. This small city is readily Scottish mercenaries, hired by the
members of the Marley accessible due to an amazing network Swedes, by blowing her birch bark
Hill Walking Club of varied transport options: bus, tram, horn. In a hastily arranged ambush,
metro, bike, ferry, boat and, of course, the locals secured victory. One of her
Niall Watts, Maura foot. There is a wealth of sights to see, rewards was to have a hill named after
Mullaney, Dermot so it is definitely worth a visit. her, Pillarguritoppen.
Norwegians speak fluent English, On this occasion we didnt have
Fitzpatrick and Mary are genial, very helpful and eminently enough time to hike up the steep
Carr set off to go likeable. On checking in to our hotel forested slopes to its summit (853m).
walking in Norway. we chatted with the receptionist who Instead we took a bus 90km east to
had studied in college in Switzerland Gjendesheim, a popular base from
with a guy from Donegal. Of course, which to explore the Jotunheimen
No one I knew had ever gone on we didnt know his family, but we Nasjonalpark (Home of the Giants
holiday in Norway. Indeed the instantly felt right at home. National Park). The park was
response of friends and acquaintances Preoccupied by the fjords, perhaps established in 1980 by Royal decree.
was generally one of disbelief and rightly so, few tourists are tempted to Covering an area of only 1,145 square
shock at the thought of holidaying in a explore central Norway. Trapped kilometres, the park boasts more than
country even further north and more between Sweden to the east and the 200 peaks which rise above 1900m,
expensive than Ireland. Are you mad, fjords extending like fingers into the including Norways two highest
they asked? Nevertheless, we bought Atlantic, the area includes five national mountains, Galdhpiggen (2469m)
the guidebooks, packed a small parks and boasts some of the countrys and Glittertind (2464m). Hillwalkers
rucksack each and set off, looking finest scenery. This is where we were are spoilt for choice in terms of hiking
forward to long days and the promised headed. routes there. Our goal was to hike the
spectacular scenery. On Monday, we jostled with early Besseggen ridge, a popular knife-edge
We flew to Oslos Torp airport, morning commuters aboard a train to ridge between two mountain lakes.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 27


4hillwalking

few hundred metres before reaching a


fork: the left trail goes past Lake
Russvatnet and on to Glitterheim,
while the right trail, which we took,
goes to Besseggen. We kept a steady
pace, stopping occasionally to admire
the spectacular view and take photos.
Along the way we met a young
Swedish couple who were taking
turns carrying their six-month-old son
in a baby backpack carrier. Mothers,
daughters, fathers, sons, young
couples, single people, small groups of
friends, families, all ages including
grandparents and very young children
scrambled happily on the trail. We
met people from Sweden, Germany
and France, but most of all we met
Norwegians, who really embrace the
outdoor life and proudly trek this
route regularly.
The sun shone, the raingear stayed
Lake Gjende on We were planning on availing of the Wicklow in the late 1970s.
in our rucksacks and the scenery took
the right, Lake modest comforts of the Gjendesheim Fortunately, Maura had brought some
Bessvatnet on
our breath away. Having hiked for
hostel as our base for the hike. Our earplugs with her. I will be forever
the left. three hours, we picnicked high above
bus dropped us at the door in swirling grateful to her and I owe her my
Photo: Mary Lake Gjende. Snow-capped peaks and
mists. Nestling at the east end of Lake nights sleep.
Carr. undulating glaciers dominated the
Gjende, the lodge, which was built in The following morning we set off
skyline. We were delighted to be in
1878, is the flagship of the DNT on a path beside the lake, despite the
the home of the giants.
(Norwegian Trekking Association). rain. Dermot, our resident geographer,
The DNT operates many hostels and was able to tell us that Lake Gjende
mountain cabins, marks mountain shows typical characteristics of glacial Heady scramble
routes, and offers maps and route formation. It is 18km long, 1.25km at Up to this point the hike had
information, guided tours and other its widest point, and is 995m above seemed relatively easy and we were
services for mountain hikers in sea level. The Memuru river beginning to doubt the dangers and
Norway (see www.turistforeningen. discharges large quantities of earth, difficulties described in the
no/english). clay and stone from the glacier into guidebook. However, gazing into the
the lake, giving it its distinctive green distance, I wondered if we were really
Freedom to roam colour. In summer, boats travel the going up there? Niall took out his
In Norway, the concept of length of the lake, connecting binoculars and confirmed that the
allemannsretten, literally meaning mountain trails and two more lodges far-off specks were indeed hikers and
everymans rights, confers a freedom the privately owned lodge at we should be on our way.
to roam so that anyone can walk Memurubu halfway along the lakes The next part of the trek took us
through or camp freely on north shore and Gjendebu, a staffed down quite close to the edge of Lake
uncultivated land regardless of DNT lodge right at the lakes western Bessvatnet (which is 400m above Lake
ownership, provided they are at least end and a good option if the weather Gjende) before starting the assault on
150m away from houses and farm is inclement. the ridge. Looking back from Bandet,
buildings. Most people who stay at the a flat plateau between the two lakes,
Gjendesheim (pron. yen-de-shaim) Gjendesheim hut are there to hike the the vista was stunning. We could now
is a very popular destination with ridge. A chance conversation while fully appreciate the vivid contrast
walkers. If you plan to go, I highly retrieving clothes from the excellent between the icy blue of Lake
recommend that you book early. DNT drying room led us to change our plan Bessvatnet and the emerald green of
members have priority and can book and hike from the opposite direction. Lake Gjende. From there the scramble
in advance but everyone is Next morning we took the boat from over rock up to the crest of the ridge
accommodated, even if that means the jetty at Gjendesheim to was very steep, an ascent of about
sleeping on the floor. The hostel was Memurubu. The advantage of starting 300m. Some ledges we had to climb
nearly full and, even though we had from Memurubu was that it meant not onto were chest high so it was a help
pre-booked, we were offered dorm having to worry about catching the to have long legs and free hands to
beds. I was horrified when I saw the ferry home in the evening or adding haul ourselves up.
bunks and realised I would be an extra few hours to the trek if we In places the rocks on the ridge
sleeping that night with 23 other missed it! were polished smooth from wear and
people. The nearest loo was in the At Memurubu, people quickly getting a foothold was challenging.
next building! Staying in the hut disembarked and immediately set off The Norwegians use long walking
reminded me of my first overnight in on the 2-hour steep climb to the poles which cannot be adjusted. We
the old Trinity climbing hut in base of the ridge. The path climbs a came across more than one of these

28 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


hillwalking3

View south across


poles which had been abandoned by stone plateau at Veslefjellet, 1743m.
Lake Gjende
its owner. Fortunately ours were We lingered a while to savour the towards Ovre
adjustable and were safely stowed in crisp air and the bright sunshine of Leirungen.
our backpacks. In places the ridge this wilderness and to take the Photo: Mary Carr.
narrows to a few metres with a sheer obligatory photos. Beyond the peak of
drop on either side, so it felt quite the ridge the trail was less dramatic,
scary to look sideways, but in a way crossing a couple of bare plateaux and
the exposure was also quite clambering up slopes in between
exhilarating. I thought the rock before eventually reaching the
scramble was a lot of fun. However, Veltlyfti Gorge.
you definitely need a head for heights From here it was a slippery
as the sheer drops are disconcerting. scramble down steep drops and, as
Following the DNTs way-marking the legs were getting tired, great care
large red letter Ts painted on the rocks was needed. The trail was well
kept us from straying too close to the marked with the distinctive red letter
edge. T. Chains were also provided in places
Henrik Ibsen immortalised so you could hold on to them while
Besseggen in his description of Peer making your way down. The final
Gynts wild reindeer-back ride over destination, Gjendesheim, was clearly
the ridge and his subsequent fall into visible.
Lake Gjende below. No doubt this We arrived back at the hostel heady
helps to maintain the popularity of from the extraordinary beauty of this
this trek and really says it all. unique part of the world and just in
time for dinner. For me, meeting so
Have you seen many people who clearly enjoyed the
That Gjendin ridge? outdoor life made hiking the
It cuts along
Besseggen ridge in the home of the
With an edge like a scythe
for miles and miles. giants a truly memorable and brilliant
Youre able to look from that experience. g
height of snows
And scars and glaciers Mary Carr lives in Dublin and is a
sheer down. member of the Marley Hillwalkers.
The precipice to the glassy lakes She mostly walks in the Dublin and
sixteen hundred feet below
Wicklow Mountains.
On either side.
Maura, Mary and
Dermot at the
At the end of the ridge, a very Gjendesheim hut.
gentle slope led up to the summit, a Photo: Niall Watts.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 29


4the big freeze

Lugnaquillia, 3 January 2010.


Photo: Helen Lawless.

Mt Brandon, New Years Day, 2010.


Photo: Noel ONeill (Dingle Hillwalking Club).

Below (1 & 2): Paddy Cave solo climbing on Aira Force (not climbable as an ice route for many years) in the English Lake District. Photos: Amy Beaton.
Below (3): Avalanche debris below South Prison, Lugnaquillia on 17 January 2010. Photo: Paul McCabe.

30 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


4hillwalking

All day and all of the night


Adrian Hendroff reflects on his Mountain Leader training

Catching the registered for the efficient you are at navigating to a col improve their skills in that area or it
evening light
during a typical
Mountain Leader
carry.
I Mountain Leader (ML)
training scheme in July
2007 and my journey
or summit or how slick you are at
using a GPS. At the end of the day, its
about you being in charge of a group of
people in the hills and bringing them
may just be as a personal development
strategy after passing their Mountain
Skills (MS) Assessment, to further their
expertise in the hills. Other reasons
Photo: Adrian
Hendroff. towards the award back home safe, sound and happy. All would be to have the award for current
commenced later that year, in of the skills you learn and consolidate or future work as an outdoor
prior to the Mountain Leader instructor, as a stepping stone towards
October, when I found myself Assessment (MLA) are intended to a higher award, or because they
sitting with three other ensure that you are well trained and wanted to lead walks for a walking
trainees in the back of a van equipped to do so. No matter what company or operate their own.
heading for the Fraughan your experience level is at the Whatever the reason, the ML scheme
beginning, there is always a lot to learn is a full-on committing journey,
Rock Glen in the Wicklow
micro-navigation, night navigation, especially if you also have a full-time
Mountains. We were going to group management, steep ground office job. I have recently developed an
do some steep ground work skills, emergency rope work, flora and interest in leading groups out in the
around the Arts Lough area. fauna, camp-craft, principles of Leave hills and, since going on the dole for
No Trace, geology, emergency the last year or so, have questioned
That was the start of an
evacuation skills, river crossings, etc. myself if my love for the outdoors can
incredible two-year journey, People do the ML for all sorts of be channelled as a means of making a
which was filled with fun but reasons. The primary reasons might be living. I also have an interest in
also riddled with potholes because they are leading groups in a photography, so ML camp craft and
along the way. I had many club on a regular basis and want to navigation skills provide sufficient

memorable highs on the hills


but also experienced the lows
of some personal tragedies,
with the passing of my
mother and the loss of my
job en route.

Approximately a year before I


started the Mountain Leader training, I
had completed my last and 212th Irish
summit over 2,000 feet.1 At that time,
a part of me had felt I knew it all. How
Feature recognition
around Cloon very wrong I was. The ML scheme is a
Lough in Kerry. different kettle of fish altogether. It is
Photo: Adrian not about how many mountains you
Hendroff. climb, how fast you walk, how
32 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie
hillwalking3

knowledge and confidence to spend


days and nights in the mountains in
order to chase the light.
Navigation is a key element in the
ML scheme. The standard required is
a step above the MS navigation
standard as it requires you to navigate
to micro features like rocky knolls,
tops of spurs, a slope change in a spur,
small re-entrants, bends in rivers,
specific edges of lakes, etc. As the
MLA is normally scheduled in the
mountains of Donegal, Connemara or
Kerry, complex terrain adds to the
difficulties. Also, the MLA is usually
carried out in the months of April,
October or November, so you may
also encounter prolonged mist,
persistent rain, strong gales or sub-
zero temperatures to compound the
problems you face. Finally, there is the
night navigation element. Taking all Never count on the person leading to scenario. There are a number of South African
these into account, ML navigation is know where he or she is going. Ive training manuals2,3,4 that outline these abseil.
not easy. been behind trainees and candidates techniques in detail but in essence if Less painful than
Acquiring and mastering the the rock the rope is anchored to is the Classic!
leading legs when they suddenly go
Photo: Adrian
necessary navigation skills require lots off on another bearing or do not stick bomb-proof you get safety brownie
Hendroff.
of practice on the relevant ground. I to a bearing. The mastery of self- points.
spent a lot of time in the West in all locating at any point during any given Coming up to my MLA, I spent a lot
sorts of weather conditions to bring time is an art in itself. This is of time walking in boulder fields near
myself up to the standard. Taking and classically what youd be asked to do Glendalough looking at rocks of all
following a bearing should be second during a MLA. A long period of shapes and sizes specifically for
nature. A more demanding element is silence or self-doubt after being asked anchor selection. I dug clumps of
counting paces. If you are, say, 65 Where are we? is not what the heather out from behind rocks so I
double paces per 100m on the flat, assessor is looking for. When all else could get the rope snugly around. I
then try repeating it on moderately fails, as one ML friend puts it: Use checked rocks by shaking, punching
steep ground (up and down), very spider sense. or kicking them (of course, always
steep ground (up and down) and Emergency rope-work is another ensure your clients are in the safe zone
complex terrain (slabs, rock ribs, dog- major element of the ML scheme. For when you do this in reality!). During a
Scrambling on rock
legs, zigzags, etc). Are you then still non-climbers, this could prove to be MLA, you could be waiting around for
steps above Lough
65 double paces per 100m? Mastering the most daunting aspect of the 20-30 minutes for another candidate
Gouragh in the
the art of counting paces in varying syllabus. However, note the word to set up the system. If youre unlucky Reeks.
terrain under all sorts of weather emergency. While you may never there could be a gusty northerly wind Photo: Adrian
conditions while leading a group is have to use them, emergency rope- or lashing horizontal rain. I trained Hendroff.
essential, so set the right pace, keep at work skills are definitely an essential
it and keep counting! Having a stop- in a MLs armoury, as you never know
watch also helps as a crude estimate when you might have to have them to
for longer navigation legs but for safeguard your party on difficult
smaller, shorter legs counting paces is terrain. My advice is to separate
mandatory. On my MLA night learning the knots and loops from the
navigation exercise, I counted paces system itself. Getting to grips with
for four hours on end. the knots and loops can be done in
Planning a leg prior to executing it the comfort of your own home. Make
also helps. I find it rewarding to pay a list of all the required knots
attention to the lie of the land. Not (rethreaded figure-of-eight, overhand,
only upon arrival at a destination but etc) and loops (adjustable waist loop,
throughout the navigational leg. What belay loop, etc), and practice them to
is the ground doing in front of you, perfection on your own. The system
behind you, and on your sides? They is the harder aspect to master. One
teach you all sorts of advanced key point to remember is that as long
navigational techniques during ML as the system is safe, you are safe and
training slope aspect, attack points, your clients are safe. Like First Aid,
aiming off use all of these. The ABCs (A = Anchor, B = Belay and C =
trickiest part of ML navigation is not Climber) are important for MLs when
when you are leading a leg but when using the rope to lower or to take
you are following someone elses leg. clients up a rock step in an emergency

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 33


4hillwalking

Happy faces in a my body for this by sitting out on the exercise. For a two-night expedition, the upper section of the Paternoster
shelter near hillside (with the right gear on) in wet, my 45+8-litre rucksack weighed 15- Lakes below Mount Brandon and high
Carrauntoohils cold and windy conditions. On one 16kg when I started my training but in the Iveragh hills above Cloonaghlin
summit. occasion in the depths of winter, I was Ive now trimmed it down to 12-13kg. Lough in the dead of winter.
Photo: Adrian
even asked if I was lost by a group of The secret is to go as light as possible. The ML scheme has taught me lots
Hendroff.
hill-walkers on the slopes of Invest in as lightweight gear as of other things besides navigation,
Mullaghcleevaun! possible, even if it means paying more. group management, rope-work and
Expect a considerable amount of You can also save weight by removing camp-craft. Prior to the ML scheme, I
steep ground work on a MLA. Chances all food items from their packaging must admit that I knew nearly nothing
are it will also include areas of and storing them in sealed-off plastic about flora and fauna. Now I can
unfamiliar steep ground. Over the bags. I dont like using my rucksack name up to 20-25 types of flora from
course of my ML training and MLA, cover when it rains, so I store anything types of mosses, lichens, heather,
the steep ground we visited was that should stay dry in SealLine or rushes and carnivorous plants. Early
normally on broken heathery ground Exped dry bags. I dont use simple on in the scheme, I knew very little
strewn with loose or medium-sized plastic bags to be sure that things stay about geology, rocks and minerals.
rocks or scree. On days of or after 100% dry. My rucksack has several However, rocks like granite, schist,
persistent rain, these rocks could be storage pockets, on the sides, front, conglomerate, quartzite, old red
slimy and greasy, and the ground top and bottom, and I store things I sandstone and gabbro are now no
Wild camping
above Cloonaghlin
could be mucky, which all added to dont need in the bottom of the main longer alien to me.
Lough in Kerry. the excitement of the exercise! section. My tent, waterproofs and Another element of the ML training
Photo: Adrian The ML Assessment could prove to head-torch/spare batteries are stored in that Ive put into practice in reality is
Hendroff. be a weight-carrying, back-busting appropriate pockets for quick access. river crossings, several times this year
One piece of advice is never attempt so far, in fact. Earlier in the year, I was
to go wild camping for the first time on Carrauntoohil. There had been
on an MLA. The art of wild camping plenty of rainfall the night before and
takes time and experience to get used stream levels had risen the next
to. You have to develop a habitual morning. At the first stream before the
system that works and stick to it. Gaddagh, I had to divert the group I
Remember also that roadside camping was with 300m uphill to find a
does not count as wild camping suitable crossing spot. When we came
youre only cheating yourself. I tend to to the second stream, we all had to
pick campsites in the heart of the cross as a group by stepping into it
mountains after a 7-8 hour walk for (socks off, boots on), facing uphill in a
the all-round mountain experience. I group wedge position and holding on
can testify to some exciting nights to each others shoulder straps. On
spent in other-worldly rugged terrain another instance in Donegal, a stream
such as Coomalougha, northwest of flowing out of Altan Lough was waist-
Finnararagh, in a valley near the Col of deep and fast-flowing after heavy
Despondency in the Maumturks, in overnight rain. Approximately five

34 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


hillwalking3

hours later (no rain during this time),


this same stream was only knee-deep!
I believe the people you meet
during the course of the ML training
play a major role in the destiny of
shaping your ideals as a future
Mountain Leader. I have been
privileged to have met some incredible
people during my journey on the ML
scheme reliable, honest, open,
humble and simple folks that share a
similar love for the hills like myself
and have forged what I hope to be
long-lasting friendships. I know a
friend who less than a year and a half
ago had only been out in the Wicklow
hills. Since starting his ML training, he
has done most of the classic walking
routes around the country. He now is
a qualified ML and rightfully so. I
draw great strength and inspiration
from people like him.
In retrospect, striking the right
balance is also important. Less thing or two about yourself. half the battle is won. On the other Traversing steep
experienced companions present an The Mountain Leader training is a hand, it can also be a lot of fun, it ground in Donegal
opportunity to hone your own ML long and demanding journey from the opens new doors and you get to meet during an ML
a lot of people along the way. During training course.
skills, to teach and put them into logbook and written paper
Photo: Adrian
practice. More experienced requirements to the practical aspects your training in the mist or at night, if
Hendroff.
companions tend to push you along of the scheme. It brings out the best someone suddenly asks Are you
and sometimes take you out of your and the worst in people but, if you are having fun?, the answer should be a
comfort zone or perhaps teach you a resilient and up for a challenge, then resounding YES, because you are
doing something you are passionate
about and it does take something
special to be a Mountain Leader. After
all, one day the group you are with
may be relying on you should the
going ever get tough. g

References
1. Climb Every Mountain by Adrian
Hendroff, Irish Mountain Log 86, Summer

HilltopTreks provide 2008, ISSN 07908008.


2. Mountain Skills Training Handbook by Pete
Hill and Stuart Johnson, 2nd Edition, David
and Charles, ISBN-10 0715331655;
Guided Day Walks ISBN-13 978-0715331651.
Short Walking Breaks 3. Hill Walking: The Official Handbook of the

Walking Holidays
Mountain Leader and Walking Group Leader
Schemes by Steve Long, UKMTB, ISBN-10:
Full Moon Walks 0954151100, ISBN-13: 978-0954151102.
Guided Walks for Singles 4. Mountaincraft and Leadership by Eric
Langmuir, 3rd Rev Edition, Sportscotland
and our NEW Photography Walks ISBN-10: 1850602956, ISBN-13:
978-1850602958.

For more information about these walk


Adrian Hendroff is a member of
and others, visit www.hilltoptreks.ie
Mountaineering Ireland and received
e-mail info@hilltoptreks.ie
the ML award in October 2009. He
or phone 087 784 9599
has completed all 278 mountains over
600m in Ireland and has extensive hill-
walking experience in Wales, England
and Scotland. His mountain travels
abroad have included Iceland,
Romania, the French Alps, the
Pyrenees and the Dolomites. He has
HilltopTreks a breath of fresh air! contributed several Irish hill-walking
articles to the Irish Mountain Log.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 35


4hillwalking

Walking the GR10


in the French Pyrenees
In summer 2009, Tina and Niall Ennis spent seven weeks hiking
over 900km along one of Europes longest mountain ranges.

View on morning

R
ecession and and a spare pair of Crock shoes for Late snow meant that there were
of Day 9, setting evening wear. questions about whether some of the
out from Col
redundancy
A flight to Biarritz in France was high paths would be passable during
Bagargiak. presented an ideal followed by a short train journey, the early days. On our way from Gabas
Photo:
Tina Ennis.
opportunity for time off which took us to a trendy seaside town to Gourette, we heard that there was
work and the adventure of a called Hendaye on the Atlantic Ocean, still a lot of snow on the trail and that
life-time last summer. The the start of the trail. From there our it might be wiser to take a lower route.
ultimate objective in the next seven However, we met an Australian guy
Grande Randonne 10
weeks was a town on the far end of the doing the GR10 in the opposite
(GR10), a classic long mountain range, another seaside direction who had just come from
distance walking trail along resort, Banyuls-sur-Mer, this time on Gourette and we figured that we could
the length of the French the shores of the Mediterranean. take the higher route. Soon enough we
Pyrenees, ticked all the right The route, which is mainly in were crossing larger and larger snow
France, takes a course roughly parallel fields and cutting new paths towards
boxes and we decided to to the French-Spanish border, crossing distant markers. Another couple
have a go at this epic walk. briefly into Spain and passing to the joined up with us and took advantage
north of Andorra. The trail mostly of our fresh footsteps. In parts it was
We left home on one of the best June consists of narrow paths. It is marked nerve-wracking, when we heard rivers
bank holiday weekends on record, with little red-and-white striped underneath the snow or in other
each taking only a rucksack packed markers painted on rocks, trees or on places where there were sheer drops
with everything we would need for sign-posts along the way. However, off ledges. Thankfully, only one fall
the next two months. The weight of maps and a guidebook are still happened in a safe enough spot when
each packed rucksack without food necessary, as difficulties can arise Niall slid down a smooth slope,
and water was between 12kg and navigating between the markers. There managing to stop short of the exposed
14kg. The shared gear included a two- are occasional variations to the trail, rocks. We saw bear footprints in the
man tent and essential camping and which are often marked with the same snow in one place and were kept an
cooking gear plus a hat, on top of red-and-white markers. One small eye on from above by a mountain
which each of us took a pair of shorts, error had us off course for half a day rescue helicopter crew before making
a pair of Ron Hills, one long- and one with the other half of the day spent it to our gte just in time for dinner,
short-sleeved top, one fleece, a rain backtracking to pick up the correct which was served at 7:30pm sharp.
jacket, a pair of waterproof trousers path again. The bigger the town, the harder it

36 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


hillwalking3

seemed to be to find somewhere to three-course meal of bread and cheese, town itself is known for cycling and on In the Ariege
stay and the halfway town of Bagnres- stew and pasta with gateaux for arriving we were in time to see a semi- region.
de-Luchon was no exception. Getting dessert. Through multi-lingual professional cycle race with all the Photo:
Tina Ennis.
there was tough work as it involved conversations, everyone was eager to entourage and support cars passing
the biggest one-day descent of 1857m share their stories, often aided by some through.
to reach the U-shaped valley where the hilarious sign language. The thunderstorms in the high
town was located. After the luxury of a Many of the towns and villages had Pyrenees were spectacular and all the
pizza for dinner, eaten on the wall of a municipal campsites complete with better when you could watch them out
fountain, followed by chocolate cake shops, laundry rooms and sometimes through a window. This was, of
sold to us by girl guides, we set off out swimming pools. At certain stages course, not always possible and one
of town to find one of the two camp there was no choice but to wilderness- afternoon we pushed on to avoid the
sites marked on the map. Both of these camp as we were a long way from storm we could see and hear clipping
had long since vanished one was civilisation. In these areas there were across the peaks towards us. Stopping
now an industrial park and the other a often old mountain cabins. These were to put on our waterproofs was almost
garage. Not wanting to backtrack to basically stone sheds with a fire-place a fatal error as we narrowly missed
the far end of the sprawling town, we and a bench which doubled as a table being hit by lightning, which struck
opted to hop over a fence and pitch and a bed, if it had not been used within 200m of where we were
our tent in a corner of a camper van already as firewood. One night in a sheltering in the ruins of what had
park. thunderstorm, we had no choice but been a mountain cabin until it had
When not camping we stayed in the to spend the night in one of these previously been hit by lightning.
French equivalent of a hostel, a gte cabins and for comfort pitched the Mostly the nights spent camping
dtape. These offered communal tent inside. were warm and clammy and involved
dorm-style sleeping arrangements and a lot of tossing and turning to get
the use of a kitchen. On average, the Memorable sights comfortable enough to sleep. Within a
cost was 15 each per night with a hot The route involved some road week of the end of the GR10 there was
shower and washing facilities walking, the most memorable walk of an option to summit Mount Canigou
included. Where the kitchen was run which took us towards the town of (2784m) but we stuck to the track and
by the gte owner, meals were on offer, Mrens-les-Vals, following a route used spent two days circling the mountain,
again at about 15 each. These proved by the Tour de France. The road is which involved an overnight camp at
to be great social occasions with all of painted with cycle jerseys, team 2000m. In the morning we woke up
the occupants sharing a table and a colours and the names of cyclists. The with ice on the tent.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 37


4hillwalking

Small lake just In smaller villages there was often taps. Barmen and caf owners never five French teenagers on a two-week
below Col de no shop, just a bread delivery van in refused a request to refill water hike before they each set off to their
Madamete which, the morning, depending on what day bottles, often washing them first and various colleges and jobs. They had
at 2059m, is the
of the week it was. Most villages had a refilling with ice-cold fresh water. In brought with them a Dungeons &
highest point on
the GR10.
one stop shop for all our food and the high mountains, we collected Dragons board game which they
Photo: Tina Ennis. grocery needs. We drank wine water at source, on occasion adding played every evening. We also met a
whenever possible but never paid purification tablets. younger couple on their summer
more than 3 a bottle for it. As it was holidays from college, doing the entire
heavy to carry, we opted for the lighter walk, too. They were good company
option of a plastic bottle of brandy
French hospitality and we shared many beers, stories and
We met fewer people than we
when we knew we would be away laughs with them.
thought we would but everyone we
from places to shop. Everything shuts Vultures often circled overhead
did meet was genuinely friendly and
down on a Sunday and for an hour in when we stopped to picnic. They
the afternoon every other day of the very helpful. Turning up on spec for looked very graceful in the sky but, as
week, which we had to bear in mind food and accommodation with very we stood on a ridge and the vultures
when arriving at a village in need of little French was daunting at first but, were lifted up on thermals to within
food and provisions. once we attempted to speak French, arms reach, we could see that they
Hunger being the best sauce, we were welcomed with friendliness were very big and very ugly.
chorizo sausage quickly became a and a willingness to communicate. Most of the snakes we saw were
favourite. It is cheap and easy to carry After one particularly long days hiking dead. There were many warning signs
with a best-before-date approximately through constant rain, we turned up for vipers and one time we did have to
10 years from now, ensuring that it at a hotel thoroughly drenched. The gingerly pass an angry snake on the
would keep for days in a warm owner took one look at us, ignored his outside edge of a path cut into a cliff
rucksack. We ate it for lunch with wifes concerns about mud on the face. In hindsight, poking it with a
cheese and baguette and for dinner carpets and welcomed us in with a stick for a better photo was not the
with pasta and tomato sauce. Nuts warm smile, giving us a room and best of ideas!
and trail mix were good high energy putting our sodden hiking boots in Twice we heard horses stampeding
foods which we kept for when all the the boiler room to dry. very close during the night, which was
chocolate rations had been eaten. There were many small groups of terrifying. Thankfully, they negotiated
Carrying a litre of water adds 1kg to French people who we met along the their way around the tent both times.
your load so it had to be collected en way, doing the GR10 with friends and Along the journey, the mountains
route. Passing through villages, family on their summer holidays in changed from lush green hills to
drinking water was available at public two-week sections. We met a group of snow-capped, awesome mountains.

38 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


hillwalking3
Pas de lOsque at the
end of the hike from
For the first third of the route the vegetation was very similar Sainte-Engrce to Arette
to Irelands with bracken, beech trees and a lot of green. la Pierre Saint-Martin.
Through the mid-section, rocks and limestone took over, Photo: Tina Ennis.
with snow and ice on the high paths and fantastic scenery.
Towards the end of the GR10, where dry sandy ground, pine
trees and cactus became the norm, it was almost as if you
could smell the Mediterranean. The first sight of the
Mediterranean was so exciting and put a spring into our tired
feet. The winding path down through terraced vineyards on
the last day was so completely different to the early days on
the trail and there was a great feeling of having passed
through so many regions.
A typical day involved getting up at 7:00am or earlier to
make best progress before the heat of the afternoon.
Travelling west to east provided shade in the morning when
there was a big climb early in the day. The shortest days hike
was five hours and on the longest day we did a 12 1/2-hour
marathon. On average, each day involved a 1000m climb
and a 1000m descent. The last day was no exception and we
arrived hot and tired, with plans of a refreshing
Mediterranean swim, in the holiday town of Banyuls-sur-Mer,
full of well dressed tourists. Like the beginning, the end was
marked only by a plaque on a wall and nothing more.
It seemed to us that having told family and friends that we
were going to walk the entire length of the GR10 was in
some way a guarantee to ourselves that we would not give
up. It made the low times more bearable than throwing our
hats in and going home. The sense of personal achievement
in having completed the trail was fantastic and extremely
satisfying. The memories will last forever. g

Tina Ennis is a member of Mountaineering Ireland and of


the Irish Ramblers and has been hillwalking with her
husband, Niall Ennis, for many years. They have walked
extensively in Ireland, including most recently in the Maam
Turks Challenge. This summer they hope to follow the GR5
from Lake Geneva to Menton and attempt to climb Mont
Blanc.

Tina and Niall Ennis during their GR10 trip.


Useful information
Travel
Outward journey: Ryanair Dublin to Biarritz followed by train journey to Hendaye.
Homeward journey: Train to Gerona and Ryanair flight Gerona to Dublin.

Guidebooks
The GR10 Trail (Cicerone guide): Essential for planning days as it sets out where there
are shops and banks. It has info about what type of accommodation will be available
and the distance to the next town, though it does need updating in parts.
Topo Guides Refs 1086, 1090, 1091 and 1092: While in French, they do have the relevant
sections of maps and avoid the necessity to purchase countless maps.

Budget
The budget was 2,000, which gave us 20 each per day for 50 days to pay for food
and accommodation. The total cost was 2,050 which included 23 nights in gtes
dtapes, 24 nights camping, three nights in hotels and one superb restaurant meal.
ATMs are few and far between but are noted in the Cicerone guide. Nearly all towns
have a Crdit Agricole bank but you must have an account and you cannot take money
out using a Visa card.

Statistics
Highest point: Col de Madamte 2509m
Total ascent: 49714m
Total descent: 49714m

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 39


4geology

Bernie Lafferty
and Peter Wilson
continue their
explanation of the
geology and
geomorphology of
the Irish mountain
What the mountains can tell us landscape.

TUNDRA IRELAND: THE PERIGLACIAL PAST


t is largely because of the although meaning adjacent to but not freezing conditions still occur and

I distinctive features that


enduring climatic events
have etched into our
covered by the glacial mass, embraces
all extreme cold, non-glacial
conditions, regardless of the presence
of glaciers.
small-scale features can develop, the
cold spikes of our current winters are
much too short-lived for the
development of the more significant
landscapes that we know that The most recent prolonged period periglacial landforms. Hence, the
the climate has played a major of extremely cold climate in Ireland broad range of periglacial landforms
role in environmental change was during the Nahanagan Glaciation that have been identified throughout
(13-11.5 thousand years ago), when the Irish uplands are considered
and landscape evolution the glaciers were relatively small and essentially remnants of features that
throughout the geological past. restricted to cirques, valley heads and have been preserved in the landscape
possibly some high plateaux. At that for at least 11.5 thousand years and
Over the last 2.5 million years the time the annual mean temperature is most likely longer. The growth of
most dramatic landforms in mid to estimated to have been about -6C, lichens on boulders and soil
high latitudes have developed in compared to todays average of +10C. development within and around these
association with the growth and decay The winter average was around -20C, landforms in the intervening years has
of the huge ice sheets formed during while again it is higher today at +6C. subdued the details of the original
repeated glaciations. However, because Landscape reconstructions show that features and also indicates that they
the ice sheets and glaciers did not permafrost (perennially frozen ground, are no longer active.
cover the entire land surface at all sometimes to depths of many tens of The identification and preservation
times, not all landforms associated metres) prevailed in both the uplands of these remnants of periglacial
with the glacial period were produced and the lowlands at the time of this features are extremely useful for
by glaciers. When glaciers were glaciation. understanding past climatic
limited in extent, the surrounding ice- Today, high humidity, intense conditions and for environmental
free or periglacial landscapes were precipitation and strong winds reconstructions but only if we have
Photo 1: subjected to freeze-thaw processes and associated with maritime conditions comparable modern analogues to
Angular boulders of
quartzite make up this
a range of landforms developed have replaced the harsh, extreme low throw light on how the original
blockfield on Muckish. distinct from the glacial features that temperatures and frequent freeze-thaw features developed. Similar cold
Photo: Peter Wilson. were present. In fact, periglacial, cycles of the glacial period. Although climate periglacial environments

40 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


geology3

which will provide suitable analogues


can be found today in the higher
latitude tundra regions of North
America and Siberia, and in the higher
altitude mountains of the Alps and
Scandinavia.

Blockfields and sorted


patterned ground
Mountain top detritus is probably
the most widespread indicator of
former periglacial conditions in the
uplands. On some hills, it takes the
form of a blockfield that consists of an
extensive cover of boulders with little
or no fine sediment or soil (Photo 1).
The boulders are usually angular and
their seemingly chaotic arrangement
adds to the distinctive character and
atmosphere of the uplands.
and begins to move down slope. Just field, which extends westwards into a Photo 2:
The sharp outer edges of the A very prominent
as eroded materials are mainly carried network of polygonal patterns. On the
boulders were once the internal crack boulder lobe with a
into the lowlands by streams and northern spur, stone stripes and
lines along which frost action worked rim of large blocks.
rivers in the present warm phase, polygons merge into stone lobes,
to break up the initial rock mass. Photo: Peter
movement of sediments from higher which give the slope a marked stepped Wilson.
Fine-grained quartzite is highly
to lower ground in extremely cold appearance. Similar features have also
susceptible to splitting and wedging
conditions was largely by solifluction. been recorded in other upland areas
apart as water freezes in cracks and
A number of distinct regular and including the summits of the Sperrins,
expands. As can be seen on Muckish,
irregular patterns in upland rock the Corraun peninsula in Mayo and
this results in some spectacular
debris are also associated with frost the western flanks of the Wicklow
blockfields in the uplands. Stress tests
have shown that temperatures in the heaving and creep (Photo 3). The Mountains. Patterned ground is
range -4C and -15C are required for patterns (circles, polygons, nets and probably widespread throughout the
frost to split rock, giving a very clear stripes) comprise areas of coarse rock Irish uplands but has been concealed
Photo 3:
indication of the severity of the debris that are clearly separated by the extensive development of Patterned ground.
conditions that needed to prevail for (sorted) from adjacent fine debris. blanket bog. The snow-free
such features to develop. Circles and polygons tend to occur on It is still not clear how exactly the areas have been
flat surfaces and slopes with less than mechanics of frost action lead to elevated slightly by
On moderately steep hillsides,
frost-heave and
concentrations of boulders generally about a 5 gradient, and as steepness patterning of the ground. However,
consist of smaller
take the form of sheet-like features increases they elongate and eventually one popular explanation attributes stones than in the
that extend for tens if not hundreds of grade into stripe patterns. A wide patterns to convection and areas below the
metres across-slope and downslope. range of these features have developed buoyancy/sorting forces within the soil snow.
These boulder-strewn areas usually on Knocknadobar in Kerry. The and sediments caused by large Photo: Peter
summit comprises a shallow block- temperature and density variations Wilson.
have a long low step or riser at their
downslope margin. Risers may extend
across slope at a consistent elevation
but, where there are local changes in
the gradient, they tend to be more
irregular or crenellated, sometimes
forming impressive boulder lobes
(Photo 2).
As well as resulting from
gravitational effects, downslope
movement of boulders is also
achieved through the processes of
frost creep and gelifluction,
collectively referred to as solifluction.
Repeated freeze-thaw cycles induce
frost creep, as material is lifted
(heaved) when soil ice develops and
then resettles slightly farther downhill
when the ice melts. Movement by
gelifluction is a sliding process, when
surface layers thaw above a frozen
subsurface and the saturated upper
material effectively becomes unstuck

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 41


4geology

present on all the hills. The absence of


tors on Donard and Commedagh is
due to the fact that the granite there is
somewhat different to the granite on
Binnian and Bearnagh, where the tors
are spectacular and probably represent
the finest examples of tors anywhere.
Rock characteristics are
undoubtedly a major factor in tor
development, but it is also important
to appreciate the complexity of the
landscape story that these features
represent. They are residual landforms
reflecting many possible evolutionary
pathways. Periglaciation, in the
quarrying of the parent rock by frost
wedging and removal of weathered
material by solifluction, is just one
explanation. But even if their history is
vague, they are the last vestiges of
Photo 4: during seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. relatively little research attention and former slopes, plateaux and summits,
One of the as a consequence theories on their and as such convey vividly, like no
spectacular tors to Tors origin and evolution remain other features do, the powerful
be found on Slieve controversial within geomorphology. influence erosion and time have in
Solifluction processes also
Binnian. modifying upland landscapes.
contribute to the sculpting of tors. As They cannot be tied to one specific
Photo: Peter Wilson.
well as being summit features, these geological period and no single
impressive bedrock towers are located landform process can account for their Talus and protalus
Photo 5:
on spur ends, breaks of slope between present state. The tors on Croghan in ramparts
An extensive sheet plateau surfaces and valley sides Wicklow and possibly those on the One of the most significant periods
of rockfall talus. (Photo 4). Broadly speaking, tors exist Blackstairs are thought to have been in Irelands landscape history was at
Although talus is in specific places where the bedrock is formed during the Tertiary period (65- the end of the last glacial period, as
not as steep as much more resistant to weathering 2.5 ma), while the Mourne tors are the island moved from being largely
often thought, it is largely associated with periglacial
and erosion processes than the ice-bound to being ice-free. As the last
still awkward to
adjacent areas. conditions during the more recent glaciers retreated and eventually
ascend or descend.
Photo: Peter In Ireland, tors, like periglacial glacial phases. The Mourne tors are decayed, steep and potentially
Wilson. features in general, have received developed in granite but are not unstable rockwalls were exposed on

42 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


geology3

mountainsides. During the transition,


periglacial conditions prevailed and
the steep slopes, criss-crossed as they
were by joints and fractures lines,
were vulnerable to the freeze-thaw
process. The newly exposed faces
began to disintegrate as meltwater
froze in joints and fractures, wedging
the rock apart. Rockfall talus
accumulated on the slopes below the
crags as the blocks were prised off and
fell.
Often referred to as scree, talus
takes on a variety of forms, each
defining the vulnerability of the
exposed wall to rockfall activity.
Sheets of shattered rock extending
across the hillside indicate that the
entire rockface was equally susceptible
to the freeze-thaw process (Photo 5), appropriately as clocha sneachta or dramatic artes and cirques of Photo 6:
whereas narrow trails of boulders snow stones, a term used by sheep glaciated environments, and as a A trail of rockfall
indicate sites of localised collapse farmers in Connemara. consequence may be considered less boulders extends a
revealing specific points of weakness limited distance
Whether certain ridges at the foot of significant to our understanding of
(Photo 6). Great fans or cone-like downslope from
talus slopes are protalus ramparts or climate-related environmental change. this summit
accumulations of talus developed moraines has proved to be a However, documenting these outcrop.
where gullies funnelled rock Photo: Peter
contentious issue. Protalus ramparts landforms is important because they
fragments and, where there are many Wilson.
are usually identified on the basis of supplement the glacial record,
gullies, talus cones can coalesce
their proximity to the foot of the talus providing more detailed insights and,
laterally, making for highly unstable
slope. A true rampart must be within therefore, a deeper understanding of
terrain.
70m of the talus foot. At greater our complex landscape history. g
The long profile of a talus slope
distances, the thickness of the
tends to comprise a straight upper
snowbed is likely to have been such Bernie Lafferty is an independent
slope with a concave base. The
straight slope represents the angle of that it would have been transformed environmental systems specialist
to glacier ice and would have moved working in the northwest region. Photo 7:
repose or the gradient at which the
outwards and away from the slope, Peter Wilson is a lecturer in A protalus rampart
pile of angular rock fragments can (arrowed) below
stand without collapsing. creating a moraine ridge. Environmental Science at the
crag and talus.
Measurements have shown that the The periglacial features described in University of Ulster, Coleraine, and Photo: Peter
angle normally falls within the range this article are more subtle than the an MI member. Wilson.
of 30-40. Fall-sorting dictates that
boulder size increases downslope. The
larger fragments have greater
momentum and can travel a
considerable distance by bouncing or
rolling while the smaller fragments
tend to lodge nearer to the base of the
crag.
In some upland regions, vegetation-
covered ridges with a scatter of surface
boulders are present just downslope
and parallel to the base of talus
accumulations (Photo 7). These ridges,
known as protalus ramparts,
developed as a result of rockfall debris
from crags rolling, sliding or bouncing
across the surface of a former steeply-
inclined snowbed that was banked
against the hillside, and coming to rest
at its foot. Such snowbeds
accumulated during renewed pulses of
cold climate at sites that were
unsuited for glacier development. The
geologist G.H. Kinahan first described
and interpreted protalus ramparts in
Ireland in 1894. He referred to them

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 43


4mountain rescue

LOST AND FOUND


Dr Katya Hanson of New Jersey
Search and Rescue explains how
adults and children can be taught to
keep themselves safe in the outdoors.

Katya Hanson he man and a teenage girl sat quietly on the rocks reflected in this article. (All three
demonstrates
how to survive by
using a garbage
bag if you get
lost in the
mountains. She
T in a cool light rain. We noticed them particularly
because we had encountered almost no one else
that day. As we came closer to the pair, we were
surprised for another reason they did not respond much to
organisations have now produced
videos.)
I prepared a presentation4 to meet
our primary need to inform children,
and the adults who cared for and
was addressing our greetings. worked with them, how to keep
the IMRA themselves safer in the outdoors. It
conference in was flexible enough to allow
Tramore in additional material to be included for
Our group had been having fun opportunity to do more was too good
January.
backpacking for several days in the to miss. In 2006, I began to lead our specific situations, such as for a class
Photo: Tom
Pfeiffer. White Mountains of New Hampshire. efforts in preventative search and heading out on a weekend of
One day we helped each other climb rescue (PSAR). We wanted to help camping, and it appealed to a wide
up a long waterfall. One of the nights children and adults understand what range of ages. I could keep forty four-
we set up camp in a driving rain. We they could do to avoid getting lost, year-olds, a dozen teenagers or two
came prepared to be wet (although we and how to care for themselves and dozen adult leaders engaged for an
enjoyed the dry times more), but help us to find them sooner, if they hour or more.
What began as public service talks
these two were in trouble. They were became lost.
ended up providing valuable links
soaked and wearing only cotton With a little research, I found many
with communities that NJSAR serves.
clothes. We soon discovered that they sources of information for these PSAR
People who had been unaware of
were out of food and water and that talks. In the USA, the Hug-A-Tree
trained volunteer searchers learned we
they were lost! On their way up programme1 had been developed and
were a free and readily available
Mount Washington, this father and had become well known after a tragic
resource for their local law
daughter had become separated from incident. A boy, Jimmy Beveridge, enforcement to call on. Children told
their friends and missed their way. died on Californias Palomar Mountain other children and adults about our
If only they had each carried a despite many people searching for presentations. As word spread, we
garbage bag and a whistle with them. him. The Association of National Park received more and more requests for
A garbage bag? you ask. Rangers produced an award-winning these presentations. People from the
In 2004, I began as a volunteer video called Lost but Found.2 In community volunteered to help our
searcher with New Jersey Search and Canada, the Search and Rescue organisation. Some joined NJSAR,
Rescue (NJSAR). At the time, the talks Society of British Columbia (SARBC) others gave their time to be search
that the NJSAR members gave on developed a programme called Lost subjects for our exercises and many
request to groups were mostly about in the Woods. A wealth of material is made monetary contributions.
what we did as searchers. The available from their site3 and it will be One of my favourite people-

44 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


mountain rescue3

connection stories started with a Although the voices might sound


successful search. We were at our loud, the searchers are not angry. They
monthly NJSAR meeting/indoor yell or blow whistles so you can hear
training session when a call came for a them even from far away. You can
search in Norvin Green State Forest. A answer by yelling back or, even better,
mother and daughter had not by blowing your whistle.
returned from a day hike. This had Dogs often help in searches, too.
been discovered that night when the Usually they wear uniforms but not
two failed to return home when always. After finding someone who
expected. By early the next morning, has been lost, the dog might leave to
team members had found them and bring the handler along. This is
led them out of the woods. Although another opportunity to emphasise the
the two had not brought extra importance of staying in one place. If
clothing (or garbage bags) to keep you move, the dog will have to look
themselves warm and dry, they did for you again. Often groups request us
many things right. Once the mother to bring a search dog for them to
realized she was lost, she stopped. She meet. We do whenever we can, but we
collected dry leaves, grass and small wait until near the end to bring in the
branches to cushion where they sat, dog and explain how air-scent dogs
trapping air to retain heat. They work the dog always steals the
stayed together, hugging their dog, show! survival, you will be better off while Katya Hanson with
who had an injured paw. The mother I tell children to do everything they you wait. Donal McNamara
told her daughter to stay next to her can to stay safe: stay with parents or When someone is lost, we (Search & Tracking
even if she no longer answered when the group, stay within boundaries set encourage their companions to report Development
her daughter spoke she was afraid of by a parent or teacher, pay attention to Officer with IMRA
it to law enforcement immediately.
and member of the
becoming hypothermic. landmarks around them, and prevent They should describe what happened South Eastern
Days later I was contacted by the the need for a search. It is no fun to be and the person or persons who are Mountain Rescue
mother who wanted to have all her lost. Playing the short Lost but Found lost their clothing, gear, experience Association) at the
daughters schoolmates and parents video now is very effective. and condition. They should also note IMRA conference
learn what to do if they became lost. Almost everyone gets lost at one when and where the missing person(s) in Tramore in
She arranged for PSAR talks to the time or another. All it takes is a January.
was last seen. If they flag the position
entire elementary school and to the momentary lapse of attention. Photo: Patrick
and note it on a map, they will be able OSullivan.
Parent Teacher Association, a total of Unprepared adults and older children to return to the same place later, if
several hundred children and adults. can find it difficult to recognise or necessary. Any delay makes a big
What did I tell them? Primarily, to admit that they are in trouble when difference to the size of the area that
carry a garbage bag and a whistle with they get lost. Once they do, panic is must be searched. The area grows
them every time they go out in the the likely first reaction. If you let rapidly as time passes. For someone Katya Hanson
woods and to stay in one place, if they someone know where you are going traveling at 2mph, the area to be demonstrates how
get lost. Of course, there is a lot more and when you should return, people searched grows from 0.8 square miles children can build
to be said than that. will begin looking for you sooner and a nest to help
in 15 minutes, to 12.6 square miles in
them survive if
To encourage adults and children to will start looking in the right one hour, to 50.3 square miles in two they get lost in the
get out and enjoy the out-of-doors, I direction. If you also carry a survival hours, and to 201.1 square miles in mountains.
preface each presentation with a fun kit and remember the rules for four hours. Unfortunately, searchers Photo: Tom Pfeifer.
display and game about interesting
things one can see in the woods.
Because the talk is about what can go
wrong, I emphasise up front that
usually all goes well, especially if you
are prepared. (That garbage bag can
be used to haul any trash you find out
of the woods. I like everything I carry
when hiking to have multiple uses.)
An additional way to connect early
in the presentation with children is to
explain that they can talk to searchers,
if they become lost. I relate this to
their being allowed to talk to police
and fire fighters when they need help.
Fire fighters and police often
participate in searches, too. Their
uniforms are familiar to children.
Other searchers might wear many
different uniforms or regular hiking
clothes. A lost child should respond to
people who call his or her name.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 45


4mountain rescue

What should be in 5. Put out something bright and use


sticks and stones to show where you
the kit? are.
1. A big orange, red, white, or yellow 6. Look bigger for searchers. Flap
plastic bag is best, or use an your big plastic bag or make a snow
inexpensive and readily available angel on the ground when you hear a
contractor clean-up bag. Although plane or helicopter fly overhead.
most are black and not easy to see, 7. Make a nest to lie down. Use leaves
there are ways, mentioned below, to and branches to trap air around you.
make your location more visible. A 8. Eat only what you brought with
contractor bag holds 42 gallons and is you. You will not starve soon and
thick enough to keep a child from many things you might try to eat can
suffocating by inhaling it. Rocks and make you sick.
branches will not tear it easily. You can 9. Stay away from large rivers or lakes.
also bring an extra bag for a friend, to You might fall in and get wet or
step into to cover your lower body, or drown. Get the water you need to
to stuff with leaves and make into a drink from small streams or bodies of
cushion or cover. A bag can also be water.
draped across a bush or branches to
provide shade, or it can be used to If you use the kit and follow the rules,
Katya are often not called until many hours make a water still. you should be found safe and sound.
demonstrates after the person has gone missing. 2. A whistle should be in the kit also.
how to prepare a Some things can be done in Plastic is best, but any whistle is better PSAR can involve more than
tinfoil cast of a advance to help if a person becomes
shoe footprint, to
than none and it should be louder presentations to help keep people
lost. Footprints can be made using than your yelling.
help in locating a from getting lost or injured, if lost.
lost person. heavy duty aluminum foil on a fleece 3. You need to be able to signal where SAR teams can publicise the risk of
Obviously, you blanket before heading out. This can you are, even if you are asleep. dependence on cell phones and GPS
need to make be a fun activity for children and the However, you should not hang out on
your cast before
systems. Technology can fail at the
foil is reusable. The impression in the a branch or rock anything you can use
you go and worst times. Batteries run out and
foil of the soles of a lost persons shoes to keep warm. Instead hang paper
get lost. signal coverage or the device itself
or boots will help searchers with their (some might be in your pocket), keys,
Photo: Tom may be lost or not function properly.
Pfeiffer.
tracking. When you have a choice, or jewellery nearby to attract Even with these devices, you must
choose to wear a jacket with a hood attention. You can also point to where know how to, and be prepared to,
and pockets in a bright color like you are with an arrow as big as a survive until you are found and
yellow, orange, hot pink or light blue classroom made by lining up branches evacuated, if that is necessary. Both
for yourself or a child. It will help you and rocks or stacking snow. the search and the rescue can take a
keep warm and will also make you 4. A reflector is another way to signal. long time.
more visible to searchers. You can also You can make one from any foil, even So, what happened with the father
take a photo of each person showing the wrapping on a snack you brought and daughter on Mount Washington?
what they are wearing. It surprises me with you. A watch, glasses, or a cell We took out two garbage bags, poked
how often clothing and colours are phone might be made to reflect
Katya holes and stretched them to fit the
remembered wrong. sunlight or a flashlight toward people
demonstrates the face and hands of each person, and
snow-eagle
If you keep your survival kit small, you see, especially those in a plane or then we helped them get covered.
technique. it can be carried easily in a pocket. helicopter. After they drank plenty of water and
Photo: Tom Too large or heavy and it probably 5. Bring food and water. They are the enjoyed a few snacks, we led them
Pfeiffer. wont be carried. fuel your body needs to generate safely down the mountain. It was
warmth. another happy ending. g
6. Keep the items in a small plastic
bag that you can use to scoop water if Dr KW.Katya Hanson works for the
needed. New Jersey Search and Rescue
Association. She has a PhD in
What are the survival Operations Research.
rules?
1. Stay together, if you are with PSAR
To inquire about starting a local
programme in Ireland, contact
another person or a pet. Keep each
Donal McNamara at
other company and hug to keep
PSARIreland@gmail.com.
warm.
2. Stay in one place; do not wander.
You might get more lost or hurt. References
3. Take care of yourself by keeping 1. Information at
www.nasar.org/nasar/presenter_support.php.
warm and dry. Cover your head and
2. Available at www.anpr.org/lost.htm.
put something insulating between
3. See http://sarbc.org/sarbc/litw.html.
yourself and the ground.
4. Overviewed briefly at
4. Find a cosy waiting place not a
www.njsar.org/education.html.
hiding place.

46 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


4training

TrainingLog
Training news round-up presented by Training Administrator Kate Hebblethwaite

Training opportunities in 2010


Ensuring that suitable mountain training opportunities are accessible by Meets
all of our members is one of Mountaineering Irelands core strategies. Mountaineering Ireland meets are an
The departure of the previous Training Officer in 2009 did slow the opportunity to make contact with fellow
progress being made, but the recent appointment of Alun Richardson as members and develop skills through
Mountaineering Irelands new Training Officer will allow the organisation getting out in the mountains
to develop a full programme of formal and informal mountain training independently or on one of the climbing
opportunities in 2010. or walking courses that are organised.
The 2010 Mountaineering Ireland
Summer Alpine Meet will be taking place
in Ailefroide in the Dauphin Alps (France)
from 3-18 July (see page 50 for details).
An information evening on this Summer
Meet will take place on 7th April at the
Great Outdoors Store (Chatham St,
Dublin 2) from 7:30pm. Further details
and a booking form for the 2010 Summer
Meet can be found on the Mountaineering
Ireland website. Deadline for bookings is
30th April.

Photo: Mountaineering Ireland.

Coaching Ireland
Training Officers (VTOs) to come together Through its representative Dave
Contact us with Mountaineering Ireland and Gaughran, Mountaineering Ireland is
experienced instructors to discuss their engaged with the Coaching Ireland
The key role of the Mountaineering clubs training needs and work toward Facilitated Adventure Sports
Ireland Training Office is to implement the designing an effective training support Qualification framework. This framework
2007 training policy. It is also there to structure for their club members. The has a number of strands, the two most
listen to feedback from members. If you workshops will recap personal skills and important being:
have any comments or feedback or have progress toward coaching others and
an idea but are not sure how to get it off
how to organise club training events. It is The development of generic instructor
the ground, contact the Training Officer or
the Training Office and we will do our best not the aim of these sessions to teach competencies;
to help you. basic skills but to demonstrate how to The training of instructors and tutors
pass the skills on to others. Participants (those who train the instructors).
should therefore have some prior
Training for clubs knowledge and experience to Mountain At present, MIAs and MICs are included
Mountaineering Ireland currently has over Skills training standard. (See the Training in the instructor framework, but the
130 clubs with over 8,000 members. The & Safety pages of www.mountaineering.ie addition of IML holders and ML is also
provision of training for all club members for information on the Mountain Skills being examined. This will require tutor
is important because it helps ensure that scheme.) training and assessment, either by
they can safely enjoy their days in the Anyone interested in acting as their sending tutors (BOS Leadership award
mountains. To improve the informal clubs VTO should get in touch with their providers) to Coaching Ireland to be
training of mountaineering skills in clubs clubs chairperson or secretary and have trained in how to train, and then
there are two weekend Volunteer their name put forward to Mountaineering assessed, or by developing our own tutor
Training Officer Courses planned for Ireland. Further information, including trainers and assessors in conjunction with
2010, on 8-9 May and 13-14 November. costs, locations and booking forms, will Coaching Ireland. The actual track we
These workshops are a great be available on www.mountaineering.ie take will be discussed at the next BOS
opportunity for club-nominated Volunteer over the coming weeks. meeting.

48 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010


training3

Photo: Mountaineering Ireland.

BOS/MLTNI
Mountaineering Ireland is an all-Ireland organisation, but formal
NGB awards are administered by the Mountain Leader
Training Northern Ireland (MLTNI) in the north and Bord
Oiliint Slibhe (BOS) in the south. Both boards are supported
by their associated Sports Councils.
In 2008, Mountaineering Ireland commissioned an independent
consultancy firm to report on the best way forward for BOS. It
presented a clear breakdown of the current standing and optional
future pathways for mountain training in Ireland. Mountaineering
Ireland set up a working group under an independent chairperson
to work jointly with MLTNI. The working party should be able to
report on progress made very soon.

Bord Oiliint Slibhe (BOS) courses


The dates for assessments, refresher courses and Continuing
Professional Development (CPD) have now been arranged:
Congratulations
MPA assessment: on demand
WGL assessment: 8-10 October, location TBA (other dates
New providers and award holders
can be arranged for six or more people)
BOS would like to welcome the following new providers of
ML assessment: 8-10 October, Donegal (other dates can
Mountain Skills Training:
be arranged for six or more people).

Diarmuid Crowley MST Willie Whelan MST


Assessment is not the end of the road for learning and BOS
recognises the importance of continued support for trainees and
For anyone interested in becoming a provider of BOS awards
award holders alike. A variety of refresher workshops have
there is a Train the Trainers workshop on 29-30 May. This event
therefore been arranged to provide an opportunity for those
is organised by Mountaineering Ireland to promote further
about to undertake assessment or for those who have passed
progression through mountain training and to facilitate
their assessment and wish to refresh their knowledge and skills.
candidates seeking first-time BOS-provider approval. It is open
Look at the website for booking forms and further details on
to all current members of Mountaineering Ireland who have held
location for the following events:
their Mountain Leader for a minimum of one year. This required
minimum period of one year should clearly demonstrate the
MPA refresher: date TBA
candidates continued development as a qualified ML, working
SPA refresher: 17 April and 30 October
with a variety of different types of groups on a range of upland
ML and WGL refresher: 25-26 September.
regions.

Continuing professional development


The BOS Provider Agreement states that approved providers
New award holders
BOS would like to congratule the following newly-awarded MLA
must attend one full CPD workshop in any single three-year
and SPA holders:
agreement period. The following events are currently being
organised and are designed to maintain, improve and broaden
SPA Assessment ML Assessment
the knowledge and personal performance of providers. Once
Jonathan Smith Charles OByrne
again, keep an eye on the website for booking forms and further
Neil McAloon Adrian Hendroff
details on location for these events:
Charlotte Perkins John OSullivan
Derek Aherne Niamh Burke
SPA workshop: 20 September
Magdalena Ziola Mark Leonard
Mountain Skills workshop: 15-16 October
Maeve Lynskey
MLA/WGL workshop: 21-22 September
Sean Murphy
Train the Trainers workshop: 29-30 May

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 49


4summer meet

Summer Alpine Meet


Ailefroide, Dauphin Alps, France, 3-18 July 2010

he 2010 Summer Alpine Alpine Courses

T Meet will be held in


Ailefroide, Dauphin Alps,
France, from 3-18 July.

Nestling at the foot of Mont Pelvoux, this


1-day introduction to rock climbing
4 July, 5 July, 11 July, 12 July
Minimum 1:2, maximum 1:6 ratio. 100

1-day improvers rock climbing


beautiful village is located in the second
6 July, 7 July, 13 July, 14 July
largest French mountaineering area after
Minimum 1:2, maximum 1:6 ratio. 100
Chamonix. The Dauphin Alps are one of
Frances foremost areas for mountain
1-day multi-pitch rock climbing
activities, with three of Frances highest
8 July, 9 July, 15 July, 16 July
mountains outside of the Mont Blanc massif
1:2 ratio. 200
and many other fabulous peaks and glaciers.
With spectacular high walking passes, more
Half-day Workshops
Glacier crossing & crevasse rescue Climbing for the over 50s
than 100 peaks over 3000m and steep rock
(morning sessions): 4 July & 11 July (3 days with UIAGM guide)
walls, walkers and mountaineers have been
Minimum 1:4, maximum 1:10 ratio. 30 4-7 July & 11-14 July
attracted to this region for more than a
1:4 ratio. 300
century.
The meet is intended for everyone Multi-pitch climbing techniques
(morning sessions): 5 July & 12 July Introduction to Alpine mountaineering*
walkers, rock climbers and mountaineers of
Minimum 1:4, maximum 1:10 ratio. 30 (5 days with UIAGM guide)
all ages and abilities. It is a wonderful
3-9 July & 10-16 July
opportunity to meet like-minded people and
Simple rescues for rockclimbing level 1:4 ratio. 3 people: 700. 4 people: 650.
go walking, bouldering or climbing on snow-
covered and rocky alpine peaks. The main 1 (morning sessions): 6 July & 13 July
Minimum 1:4, maximum 1:10 ratio. 30 Intermediate Alpine mountaineering*
emphasis is to have fun, make contact with
(5 days with UIAGM guide)
fellow members, and develop skills through
Simple rescues for rockclimbing level 3-9 July & 10-16 July
getting out in the mountains independently or
2 (afternoon sessions): 6 July & 13 July 1:2 ratio. 800
on one of the Moun-taineering Ireland
climbing or walking courses. Minimum 1:4, maximum 1:10 ratio. 30
Advanced Alpine mountaineering*
The courses are designed to introduce you
Movement skills for rockclimbing level 1 (5 days with UIAGM guide)
to the skills required for walking and climbing
(morning sessions): 7 July & 14 July 3-9 July & 10-16 July
but with the long-term aim of enabling you to
Minimum 1:4, maximum 1:10 ratio. 30 1:2 ratio. 900
walk and climb independently in alpine areas.
There are also courses for people who want * These courses will be five days in duration,
to refresh or upgrade the skills learnt on Movement skills for rockclimbing level 2 commencing at 6:00pm on Saturday 3 or
previous meets. A natural progression is for (afternoon sessions): 7 July & 14 July Saturday 10 July, and run over a six-day period
people to participate in a course in the first Minimum 1:4, maximum 1:10 ratio. 30 with one rest day. The rest day will be agreed at
the time on the basis of weather conditions.
few years and then return to the meet as an
This course will be three days in duration,
independent walker/climber.
The IFMGA Mountain Guides and IML
Walking/climbing commencing at 6:00pm on Sunday 4 or Sunday
11 July, and run over a three-day period.
Walking Leaders are at the meet not only to Courses
run formal training courses but also to give Walking tour*
advice and share information with everyone (5 days with International Mountain
on mountain conditions and recommended Leader): 3-9 July & 10-16 July
routes in the area. 1:6 ratio. 500 Further information
Further details and a booking form can be Alpine Adventure Walking*
found on the Mountaineering Ireland website. For further information, course outlines,
(5 days with UIAGM guide): gear lists and a booking form, please visit
The deadline for bookings is 30th April, so do 3-9 July & 10-16 July
book early to avoid disappointment. the 2010 Summer Meet page at
1:6 or 2:8 ratio. Up to 3 people: 600. www.mountaineering.ie.
4 people: 550. 6 people: 500.

Photos: Mountaineering Ireland.

50 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010


4books

Books
Literary Editor Joss Lynam presents reviews of some recent publications.

Lies and treachery!


in 2004, did a lot to support Bonattis story and helped to vindicate
Mick Murphy him in the end.
Having followed in their footsteps and reached 8000m on K2, I
K2: Lies and Treachery
have incredible respect for anyone who has climbed at that altitude on
By Robert Marshall
K2. It is a steep and intimidating mountain that every day challenges
Carreg, 232pp
you with hard technical climbing at high altitude. It is inevitable that
Stg 20.00
there would be some conflict among the climbers, given their egos
ISBN 978-0-9538631-7-4
and the incredibly tough environment they were operating in.
Decisions were made under huge stress with fatigue and low oxygen
This book, with Walter
levels as additional factors. The decisions made were the best
Bonattis account of the
possible at the time. It is easy after the event to question some of the
events leading to the Italian
choices made, but we will never know all the factors that governed
first ascent of K2 in 1954,
these high mountain decisions.
should have been a long-
As a book that sets the story straight, K2: Lies and Treachery
awaited treat for readers of
works, but on almost every other level it doesnt. Poorly written and
mountaineering literature.
edited, it fails to illuminate in any way one of the most fascinating
Unfortunately, it is not. The
mountaineering stories of the 20th century.
author, Robert Marshall, is an
Australian surgeon who has
long been fascinated by the
career of Walter Bonatti. He
has previously presented lectures on the K2 affair of 1954 as well as
editing a translation of Bonattis autobiography, Mountains of my Life.
Hence he is no stranger to the story or to the process of telling it.
However, his familiarity with the story doesnt translate into a fluent,
engaging account of the lies and treachery that besmirched the
Italian success of 1954. In fact, the reader needs a considerable
amount of endurance to make it all the way to the end of the book.
The book is a vindication of Bonattis version of the events that took
place on K2 in 1954, a version which is now accepted as true. The
Italian success in that year, following the American failure in the
previous year, did a lot to boost Italian national pride. The two
summiteers, Compagnoni and Lacedelli, became national heroes,
especially as they reported reaching the summit after running out of
oxygen. They later accused Bonatti of betraying them by using some
of their oxygen during his night in the open and compromising their
summit attempt as a result. They totally refuted Bonattis claim that he
and the high-altitude porter Mahdi had been abandoned by them and
had been forced to bivouac at 8100m while they were in a tent just
above. Bonatti, despite winning a libel case in 1966, was never truly
vindicated until the Italian Alpine Club published a revised official
account of the story in 2007.
The story has all the ingredients of a classic mountaineering
adventure: outstanding mountaineers, calculated risks, survival
against the odds and, finally, success. Internal strife within the team,
clashing egos and jealousies should only have made it more
convincing. Disappointingly, the reader gets no real feel for this story in
Marshalls book. The story of Bonattis vindication is relayed in such a
laboured way that the reader derives little pleasure from it. Chapter 3
in particular, which painstakingly recounts the libel suit, reads like a
court report. Also, the reprinting of letters in their entirety makes for
tedious reading in parts.
Compagnoni went to his death disputing Bonattis account, but
Lacedellis honest account, published finally in The Price of Conquest
Walter Bonatti after he had climbed the Dru Pillar.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 51


4books

To the Mountains of the Moon


the nearest european was 50 miles away we wouldnt have had much
Joss Lynam of a social life if we hadnt. Sean and Nuala were pitchforked into a
situation where most whites belonged to the Whites Only Club and
Snow on the Equator:
hardly entertained browns (Indians), let alone blacks (Africans). To
An African Memoir
their credit, the Rotherys didnt join the Club and often crossed the
By Sean Rothery
divide.
Ashfield Press, 239pp
Sean had some interesting architectural work, which he describes,
27drawings, 2 maps
including knocking down some columns in which the steel reinforcing
13.99
had been omitted, but most of the book is about their travels. They
ISBN: 978-1-901658-77-4
had a Fiat 500, not the most suitable transport for Ugandas dirt
roads, but they made do. They joined the Uganda Mountain Club but
Four years earlier than Nora
found the majority of members were there for social reasons, though
and myself, Sean and his wife,
there was an African member who was the best climber!
Nuala, decided they wanted to
After Nuala became pregnant and they had a baby to consider,
travel to somewhere they could
Sean went solo to Karamoja, where he nearly died of thirst, and made
climb. Less ambitious than us,
a more productive trip to the Mountains of the Moon with a climber
they picked Uganda for its
and another who turned out to be a non-climber. Nevertheless, they
proximity to the Mountains of
climbed three of the highest peaks. The death of a second baby from
the Moon. We had picked India
a heart condition, homesickness, the murder of their best friend by a
for the Himalaya, but it was
drunken Ugandan and an overheard conversation that Seans job was
less of a culture shock
uncertain combined to persuade them to return to Ireland.
because I had been in India before, while they faced the shock of a
The book provides a very interesting and well-written picture of pre-
country where the white man was still king.
independence Uganda and its people, very well illustrated with Seans
There were still remnants of discrimination in India; our first bearer
own drawings.
(cook/house servant) left us because we entertained Indians; since

Steve House wins 2009 Boardman Tasker Prize


Steve Houses or co-authors of an original work which has Perrin (2005).
book Beyond the made an outstanding contribution to There were thirty-one entries from the
Mountain has mountain literature. UK, Canada and the US for the 2009
won the 2009 Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker were Boardman Tasker Prize. They included five
Boardman last seen on Mount everest in May 1982, novels as well as works of climbing history,
Tasker Prize, it when they were attempting to traverse The biography, mountain rescue, Himalayan
was Pinnacles at around 8250 metres on the mapping and a celebration of snow.
announced in unclimbed North east Ridge. Their deaths The judges for the 2009 competition
November at marked the end of a remarkable era in were Phil Bartlett (Chair), Kym Martindale
the 2009 British mountaineering. The two climbers and Ian Smith. They shortlisted: Cairngorm
Kendal left two legacies. One was the great John by John Allen, an account of the
Mountain Festival. endeavour they demonstrated in their authors experiences of mountain rescue in
There is one book in particular here climbs on some of the worlds highest the Cairngorms; Hooker & Brown by Jerry
which we all felt, as soon as we finished it, peaks with their bold, lightweight innovative Auld, a mountaineering novel; The Longest
we would want to read again, Judge attempts on mountains which included Climb by Dominic Faulkner, an account of
Chairman Phil Bartlett said of Houses book Dunagiri, Changabang, Kongur, everest travelling by bicycle from the lowest point
in his prize announcement speech. It is a and Kangchenjunga. The second and more on earth, the Dead Sea, to the summit of
book we feel privileged to have read, and lasting achievement was the books they everest; Beyond the Mountain by Steve
proud to have been asked to judge. wrote. Their literary legacy lives on through House, the climbing autobiography to date
Beyond the Mountain also won Best the Boardman Tasker Prize for mountain of one of the worlds leading exponents of
Book in the Mountain Literature category at literature, which was established in their alpine-style climbing in greater ranges;
the 2009 Banff Mountain Book Festival. memory by family and friends in 1983. Deep Powder and Steep Rock by Chic
The Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust Previous winners have included Scott, the biography of rags-to-riches
was established to promote literature by Psychovertical by Andy Kirkpatrick (2008), Austrian Hans Gmoser who invented the
providing an annual award to authors of The Wild Places by Robert Macfarlane sport of heli-skiing in the Canadian
literary works, the central theme of which (2007), An Afterclap Of Fate: Mallory on Rockies; and Revelations by Jerry Moffatt,
concerned mountains. The prize of 3,000 Everest by Charles Lind (2006), and an account of a seminal period in British
commemorates the lives of Pete Boardman Learning to Breathe by Andy Cave and The rock climbing by one of the key
and Joe Tasker and is given to the author Villain: the Life of Don Whillans by Jim protagonists.

52 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


books3

Climbing the Ben


handholds.
Declan Craig The book starts off with the 18th century, covering early travels in
Ben Nevis: Britains and around the Ben, moving on to the first climbers of the mountain
Highest Mountain and then giving an interesting history of the Ben Observatory. The
By Ken Crocket & Simon links between the Scottish Mountaineering Club, the development of
Richards other clubs and the CIC Hut are well covered as integral to the
Scottish Mountaineering Trust, development of climbing on the mountain. There is also an interesting
416pp chapter on the famous distillery in Fort William and of the foot-races
Very numerous colour & B&W from there to the summit. The climbing history of the Ben, of the
photos routes and the climbers is then dealt with in a blow-by-blow account
27.50 p&p incl. ISBN: 978-1- right up to the latest achievements in 2008. This is interesting stuff as
907233-10-4 the development of climbing techniques and equipment, particularly in
winter, is played out on the faces and in the gullies of the mountain.
I was pleased to have the Over the years I have enjoyed much of the literature that Scottish
opportunity to review this book winter climbing has given rise to, in particular the writings of WH
as I had been looking forward Murray, Tom Patey, Robin Smith and John Cunningham. To fully enjoy
to its publication and indeed this new history of climbing on Ben Nevis it is useful to have already
had it on my Christmas list. done some similar reading. This volume will then place your previous
Like many, my first experiences of winter mountaineering and climbing reading in its proper historical context. Should your background
were in Scotland. On these trips I made several forays to the North reading be lacking, the writings referenced at the end of each chapter
face of the Ben and had my first winter adventures there. Familiarity are always worth investigating. The scope of this volume is so
with the Ben and some of the routes whose history is covered makes extensive it can sometimes only give the briefest of details of some
this book humbling reading, especially when the hard-fought summits notable ascents, but it will certainly inspire further enquiry.
gained with modern clothing and equipment are weighed against the I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book and I highly recommend it to
history of the first ascents, where climbers were attired in woollen anyone with an interest in climbing but in particular to those whose
garments, used tricouni boots and had to hand-cut steps and first love is the Scottish winter experience.

An utter joy of a book


Then to biographies: Andy Caves Learning to Breathe (2005), a
John Ignatius Murray young mans escape from gloomy coalmines to the mountains, is
Mountain Words favourably noticed. Also Mick Fowlers Vertical Pleasure: The Secret
British Hill and Crag Life of a Taxman (1995), an Inland Revenue official with a string of
Literature: Into the ascents on the greater ranges with no sponsorship and during annual
21st Century leave. Two biographies by Jim Perrin are particularly good Menlove
By Chris Harle & Graham (1985), on Menlove edwards, and The Villain (2005) on Don Whillans
Wilson what a contrast!
Millrace, 184pp Smoke and Mirrors reviews mountain fiction. elizabeth Coxheads
Four b&w plates One Green Bottle (1951) leads a small queue until John Harrisons
14.95 Climbers (1989) which follows a group of unemployed climbers
ISBN: 978-1-902173-28-3 through the grim Thatcher years. Finally, why less than 5% of
mountain writers are women.
This is the first overview of Lists by Chris Harle cover:
mountain writing since Jill 1. Bibliography 1983-2003. 258 titles, each with a synopsis.
Neates Mountaineering 2. Boardman Tasker Prize. Winners and shortlisted books (114
Literature (1986). It includes titles). Good to see that Lorna Siggins Everest Calling (1995) was
books of British shortlisted, and even better that Dermot Somers Rising of the Moon
climbing/hillwalking interest (1997) was a winner.
and excludes guidebooks 3. Top 50 Recommended books published before 1983. No 39 is
and expedition books. Climbing in the British Isles (Vol 2: Wales and Ireland) by our own HC
Graham Wilson, author of A Rope of Climbers (2006) and well Hart of Harts Walk fame.
familiar with mountaineering literature, covers in five essays such 4. Book Search by category with cross-references to titles in lists 1
topics as the origins of mountain writing this sport is by far the most and 3 above.
literary. What an utter joy of a book, to be read and re-read and then used
He takes a hard look at hillwalking. He considers much of to chase down all those books that youve just got to read. An
Wainwrights guidebooks belong to the province of Do It Yourself absolute must for all who appreciate the very best of mountain
Manuals Hello! But later he recants. writing.

www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 53


4books

Eilen a Cheo the Misty Isle


He conveys the huge physical diversity of the Isle of Skye and
Eileen Murphy advertises the fact there is more to Skye than the Black and Red
Cuillin Mountains for which the island is most renowned. Its nice to
The Isle of Skye: Over 80
see the Trotternish Ridge in the north of the island, including the
Walks and Scrambles
amazing rock pinnacles of The Quirang, The Storr, The Needle and
By Terry Marsh
Church Rock, getting a look in. The spectacular, clearly marked
Cicerone, 285pp
coastal walk to Idrigill Point in Duirnish must also be mentioned,
79 colour & 102 b/w photos
where you will be rewarded with views of the finest sea stacks in Skye
12.95
the majestic steeped in legend MacLeods Maidens.
ISBN 978-1-85284-560-5
Inevitably I was drawn to his section on the Cuillin, which he
described as a law unto themselves. He conveys the drama of these
When I was asked to review Terry
mountains that rise 3000 feet out of the sea and that are often
Marshs walking guidebook to
referred to as The British Alps, when he uses HV Mortons
Skye with the subtitle Over 80
description: Imagine Wagners Ride of the Valkyries frozen in stone
walks and scrambles, my first
and hung up like a colossal screen against the sky. He advises non-
thoughts were God... a difficult
scrambling walkers to be cautious before venturing into the Cuillin,
assignment for both of us! I also
and his descriptions of the many classic walks therein are clearly laid
thought that it would not be easy
out. His walks include all the major circuits from either Sligachan or
to write a guide for such a diverse
Glenbrittle to the ridge summits like Am Baisteir and the classic Sgurr
range of walkers from novice to
nan Gillean, Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh and Sgurr Dearg and
experienced scramblers. However, Terry Marsh seems to have
the infamous Inaccessible Pinnacle. Where walks veer into serious
managed just that with a range of walks from the 4km stroll along a
scrambling territory, where scrambling on all fours is a must, the
coral beach to demanding 22km days in the high Cuillin Mountains.
colour of the text changes to red beware if you are colour blind and
each walk is described in a very helpful standardised format with the
a walker who is not totally sure of his/her scrambling abilities! He
1:50,000 Landranger map of the route, grid references of the
sensibly advises those who are up for the challenge of walking along
start/finish points as all walks are circuits, distances given in
the exposed ridge with its towering spires, sharp splinters and deep
miles/kilometres, and ascents in feet/metres. With such clarity, it is
gashes, but who do not possess the relevant level of scrambling or
easy to find a walk to suit any level.
rock climbing experience, to enlist the services of a guide. Or
Marshs introduction reflects his great attachment to eilen a
alternatively I would suggest venturing into and exploring the lonely
Cheo, the Misty Isle. Apart from the usual information on safety,
corries of Coire Lagan, Coir a Ghrunnda, Coire na Creiche and Coire
access, maps and paths, I liked his references on flora/fauna, Scots
a Ghreadaidh to get a feel for the immensity of the place. These small
Gaelic folklore and nomenclature, not to mention his section on
ventures are guaranteed to inspire and enthuse the average walker to
History and Geology. He wisely acknowledges that understanding the
upskill before coming back again to take on the bigger challenges
tragedy of the Land Clearances in the mid 19th century and the
higher up on the ridge.
volcanic origin of the gabbro rock for which the Black Cuillin are so
This is a powerful, informative and a must have guidebook, if you
famous is part and parcel of the whole walking in Skye experience.
are planning a trip over the sea to Skye.

One of the highest points on Earth that a walker can climb


to travel, training required, altitude sickness and other health issues.
Aileen Moloney Practical tips are given on gear and packing. The book also describes
the five distinct habitats that exist on the mountain together with
Kilimanjaro: Summit of Africa
information on the wildlife, geology and history of Kilimanjaro.
By Jacquetta Megarry
Choice of ascent route is key to anyones success or failure on
Rucksack Readers, 98pp
Kilimanjaro. This book provides detailed descriptions of four routes:
90 colour photos, numerous maps and
Machame, Lemosho, Marangu and Rongai. These routes are
diagrams
generally the most popular choices and the author has ascended by
9.99 ISBN: 978-1-898481-52-2
all four. A day-by-day itinerary is provided for each route, with details
given on estimated time to next camp, altitude gained, the terrain to
Kilimanjaro is the highest freestanding
be covered and descriptions of the route for the day, which is very
mountain in the world, the least
useful in preparing the trekker both mentally and physically for a
technical of the Seven Summits and, at
successful summit. The book also provides details on ascending
5895 metres above sea level, it is one
nearby Mount Meru, which is recommended for acclimatisation
of the highest points on earth that can
purposes.
be reached by a walker. Although access onto the mountain is not
Weighing only 112 grammes, printed on waterproof paper and
permitted without a licensed guide, a trip to this high-altitude peak is
spiral-bound to open flat, this pocket guide is definitely worth the
not to be underestimated.
precious space in your rucksack. Colourful, concise and
This pocket guidebook covers all aspects of a trip to Kilimanjaro.
comprehensive, it provides invaluable information vital for a successful
Comprehensive advice is given on planning and preparation for the
ascent of the highest peak in Africa.
trip. This includes everything from choosing your guide, the best time
54 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie
books3

A gap in the market


been active at a very high standard for virtually all of that time, with
Michael Stoker hundreds of first ascents and hard repeats to his name and, as a
result, he knows the Scottish crags intimately. However, just in case
Scottish Rock (2 vols): The
this wasnt enough to qualify him as a guidebook author, he has also
best mountain, crag, sea
spent the last dozen or so years specifically researching these
cliff & sport climbing in
guides by visiting and climbing on virtually every crag in them an
Scotland
impressive feat, considering there are around 4,500 routes included.
By Gary Latter
Gary has spotted a gap in the market for visitors who will usually
Pesda Press
need to follow the good (read: less bad) weather but are reluctant to
476pp (Vol 1); 474pp (Vol 2)
invest in the full range of SMC guides. A selected climbs approach
Very numerous colour photos,
makes a lot of sense, as does including sport crags for those wishing
photo topos, maps
to mix it up a little. Dividing the area into two volumes (south and north
Stg23.00 per volume
of the Great Glen, respectively) also leaves enough room to include
V1: ISBN 978-1-906095-06-2
enough routes per crag for at the very least a long day (often much
V2: ISBN 978-1-906095-07-9
more). To my mind the guides also excel when it comes to layout.
There are a very large number of inspiring action shots, unusually
If youve followed the Scottish rock
clear photo topos and helpful approach maps which make the whole
climbing scene at all over the past
package appealing and easy to use. Definitely money well spent.
20 years, youll be familiar with the name of Gary Latter. Gary has

Not a trail as such, but an idea


Robin Merrick guide. I was not disappointed.
The introduction is comprehensive, with general information which is
Pyrenean Haute Route: a must for any walker, but for both visitor and armchair aspirant, the
High-level Trail through the introduction to each of the five sections into which the route is divided is
Pyrenees (2nd edition) an added bonus.
By Tom Joosten The descriptions of each days walking are so detailed they almost
Cicerone, 317pp take you there and the short highlighted summaries leave no doubt of
Numerous colour photos and maps what is ahead. The maps for each day, which are not stinted in size,
16.00 sometimes taking up two pages, are superb and can be easily related
ISBN 978-1-852845551 to the relevant maps, which are listed.
By necessity, each days walk is numbered but, as the route is
The format of this guide is similar to divided into five sections, this is a versatile guide which enables the
that of The GR 10 Trail, but is much visitor to plan a week or two-week trip. In addition to the Haute Route
more detailed, which is demanded by as described, there are variants for bad weather or to avoid difficult
the nature of the terrain. The author, sections, or indeed camping, and, if you can linger, ten classic summits
Tom Joosten, had spent over 1,250 which can be undertaken with a minimum of equipment. However,
days in the Pyrenees up to date of publication and it shows. As he says many portions of the route are isolated, and access or escape routes to
in his introduction, the Haute Route is not a trail as such, but an idea, villages served by public transport are not all identified, so some
and that is very evident throughout the guide. additional research may be required.
At the time of my only visit to the High Pyrenees, the map to the All in all, along with useful appendices, this is a practical guide to
south of the border with France was blank, and sometimes that to the beautiful and often isolated areas which, with its lovely photographs
north was not much better, so I was looking forward to dipping into this and descriptions, makes it a gem of a book.

An impressive and attractive textbook


This book is aimed more at experienced climbers and instructors than
Calvin Torrans beginners. It covers all relevant climbing wall awards CWA, CWA
Indoor Climbing and Dry Tooling: Leading and NICAS and includes useful notes on the pros and cons
Technical Skills for Climbing for of the various approaches to instruction and training. For the regular
Novices, Experts and Instructors climber there is good advice on movement, warming-up and dry-
By Pete Hill tooling, in fact on anything that can be done on a climbing wall.
Cicerone, 187pp It is an impressive piece of work from Pete Hill and, like his previous
Very many colour plates & numerous small book on mountaineering and rockclimbing, it is very well illustrated
colour pics with colour photographs, ticklists and top tips sections.
12.95 ISBN: 978-1-85284-584-1

Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 55


4books

48-odd high points


measured at 170.35, 170.86 and 170.77m, which is much funnier in
Simon Stewart fact than the books rather odd irrelevant fact sections.
Categorisation difficulties abound in the creation of such lists. Halti
Europes High Points:
(highest point of Finland) is like some Irish county high points that are
Reaching the Summit of
simply the highest place on a mountain that actually summits in
Every Country in Europe
another territory. Then there are overseas territories, disputed
By Carl McKeating & Rachel Crolla
boundaries and even disputed countries such as South Ossetia.
Cicerone 2009, 256pp
Thank current circumstances that it is even possible politically to visit
Many pictures and maps
all these places, hopefully!
14.95
Read it for fun and perhaps to fire the imagination for a lifelong
ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 577 3
journey. Nevertheless be aware of the characteristics of such a list. As
nationally celebrated features, these places arent wilderness. As a
This book sets out to describe the
very diverse list, including ascents with five categories of difficulty from
48-odd high points of the
Denmark level to mountaineering on Mont Blanc, you will not have a
countries of europe. It is an
consistent challenge, if thats what you want. Supplement with
entertaining read with vivid
internet lists (e.g. google for europeaklist) with different qualities.
descriptions of the backgrounds
Suggestions? Could relate more to modernity in GPS support, 3D
and ascents of each high point.
visualisation, further reading list on websites and directions expressed
See, for example, the half-
in degrees instead of elizabethan mariner compass points.
humorous discussion of three rival national high points for Denmark
Notwithstanding, its an interesting and inspiring book.

How to make the experience safe and enjoyable


Naomi Sturdy book could prove a useful asset to a book collection or even in your
rucksack to be browsed through selectively.
Top Tips for The tips themselves cover every aspect of climbing teaching, from
Climbing Coaches getting to know your group, how each individual learns, safety issues,
By Paul Smith multi-pitch considerations to issues of environmental care and more.
Pesda Press, 70pp It could be useful not only to a full-time climbing coach but to
No illustrations anyone involved in climbing who may take out beginners once in a
4.95 ISBN 978-1- while. The author gives you ideas on how to make the experience
906095-20-8 safer and, more importantly, enjoyable for everyone involved, e.g.
Enjoy yourself, as the group will know if you are not.
This book, written by UK Overall, the book promotes, in a very practical way, how one can
climber and coach Paul become a better coach/teacher/leader. It is a book that anyone
Smith, is a collection of involved in climbing can gain from and offers tips on issues that can
tips for anyone teaching or coaching climbing. There are over 300 tips sometimes be forgotten. An expert is someone who has made and
in no specific order. The author aimed to create a book as a useful survived more mistakes than most. Get out and make your own.
tool, to be read now and again, with tips to be used as required.
Using this style and given the size of the book (smaller than A5), this

Will be treasured by locals and visitors


pull-out map. The colour coding carries through
Jean Boydell the walk headings, the sides of the relevant
pages and the maps.
Drimoleague Heritage Walkways Sl Dhchais Dhrim D
The starting point, pull-out map reference,
Liag: A Guide to the Sheeps Head Way Eastern Routes
duration, distance, difficulty, direction and a
Drimoleague Heritage Walkways Committee 2009, 120pp
map are given for each walk. Detailed
Many colour photos, 9 b/w photos, 11 sketches
descriptions are liberally sprinkled with
7.95 ISBN 978-0-9563184-0-4
photographs, information on background,
history, heritage (including memorials to
This 210mm x 100mm-sized book covers the thirteen walks which
previous residents) and information on flora and fauna.
form the eastern Routes of the Sheeps Head Way between
There is no indication of the type of markers used and I found the
Drimoleague and Kealkill and out to Gougane Barra, in Co Cork.
maps confusing. even so, this guide is a credit to the Committee, a
There is a colour-coded index, information on Drimoleague, walks
tribute to the developers and will be treasured by both locals and
descriptions, a page on useful information, colourful advertising and a
visitors.

56 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


Competition Winners
Winners of the Christmas Climbing Quiz (IML 92, page 57):
1st prize: Eoin Kennedy
2nd prize: Naomi Sturdy
3rd prize: Julie Winfield

Winners of the Christmas Ridges Competition (IML 92, page 28):


Sean Freeman (Fermoy, Co Cork)
Tina Ennis (Ballycullen, Dublin 24)
Siobhan Lehane (Cork)
Lorraine Flanagan (Mullingar, Co Westmeath)
Paul Murphy ( Carron, Co Clare)

Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the


book service previously operated by Joss Lynam.
We can supply you with guidebooks and maps to
almost any part of the world. For the walker,
there is a large collection of Cicerone guides
and books, or the wider selection of books
and guides distributed by Cordee which also
includes many climbing guides. Books
reviewed in the Irish Mountain Log can
usually be purchased through Joss
Books with a members discount. To
place an order, ring the
Mountaineering Ireland office on (01)
6251115 or email
info@mountaineering.ie.

www.mountaineering.ie
4the last word

In the last two years, the Irish Mountaineeering Club has lost two longstanding members: Luke Brady and Peter
Flanagan. Mountaineering Ireland offers its sincere condolences to their families and friends.

Luke Brady
Always a safe pair of hands
Regular climbers in Dalkey Quarry will in South America, Nepal and the Alpine
have been saddened by the death of Luke ranges. endurance was his great strength:
Brady in November 2009. Luke, a member winter snow camps in Lug na Coille, the
of the Irish Mountaineering Club, was a Maam Turks walk, a solo ascent of Mont
well-known figure in the quarry, Blanc these were grist to his mill.
conspicuous by his characteristic walk and Outside of mountaineering, Luke had
brightly coloured anoraks. He had been many interests. He was a regular attendee
climbing since the late 1960s. at Comhaltas Ceoltir ireann in
Luke had a sturdy build, an open face Monkstown, many members of which
and a friendly manner. He was immensely came to his funeral. He completed many Luke qualified as an engineer in UCD
strong, though he liked the challenge of bird surveys for BirdWatch Ireland. He was and entered the Office of Public Works,
climbs that demanded fine balance and a long-time commissioned officer in the where he spent all of his working life.
steadiness. Over the years, Luke FCA. He sailed on the Asgard. He was His engaging, mildly eccentric presence
introduced many beginners to rock also an enthusiastic member of the will be remembered with affection and
climbing. He was meticulously safe in his Newman Society and of the Local History sadly missed in many quarters.
climbing practice, always ensuring Society. N bheidh a leithad ann ars.
patiently that belays were foolproof. In In recent years he became very involved
recent years, he climbed less but remained in his local parish church, where his Bill Hannon
generous with advice and guidance. voluntary help was much appreciated. He
His mountaineering interests extended was happiest when he was being of Luke Brady, born August 4th, 1934, died
beyond the Wicklow Hills. He had climbed service. November 16th, 2009.

Peter Flanagan
Leading figure in Irish hillwalking
Peter Flanagan, or Scouser as he was the walk. We still finished in a reasonable
affectionately known, came to Ireland from time!
Liverpool as a young quantity surveyor at On Peggys graduation in 74 they
the end of the 1960s. He had been active moved to Liverpool as she was an intern in
in climbing and walking in the UK earlier Walton Hospital there. However, Peter kept
and, on arrival in Galway, soon became up his connections with the IMC and met
involved with the UCG Mountaineering us for outings in the Lakes, in particular.
Club. They had an active programme of Later in the 70s, the family moved back
walking and climbing, and there he met his to Ireland and eventually settled in 1990s on Peters outings were confined to
wife-to-be, Peggy, and friend, Cecil Ballymore eustace. While Peter continued walks in Wicklow, up to his sudden and
OGorman (now with Club Cualann in to hillwalk in Wicklow in particular, a busy untimely death in September 2008 at
Dublin). career, a young family and, from the mid- home in Ballymore. He was frequently
Around 1970, Peter moved to Dublin 1980s, his wifes illness, limited his accompanied on these walks by his sons
where he joined the Irish Mountaineering climbing and travel abroad. However, he and by old friends such as myself and
Club (IMC), again becoming an active still managed a trekking trip with Peggy in Benny Kinsella, John Burke and Robin and
member, attending meets in Ireland, the the early 80s and, with me, a mixed Sheila Merrick.
Lake District and the Alps (Zermatt in 71 climbing trip in 92 both to the Swiss Peter is survived by his wife Peggy, and
and Dauphin in 74). He was also friendly Oberland. He also sailed on Blessington by his sons S and Oisn, along with his
with and climbed with members of the Lake and made a number of sailing trips to brothers and their families in england.
active Spilikin Club. A particular memory I the Mediterranean. Benny Kinsella and I May he rest in peace.
have of this period is of doing the were with him on a memorable two-week
Maumturks Walk on a bright summers day sail from Toulon to Dubrovnik in 84 which Paul Donnelly
in 1974 with Peter and Peggy (then visited Corsica, Capri, Bari and, of course, Irish Mountaineering Club
months pregnant with S and wearing a Dubrovnik.
swimsuit) during which we met Joss His wifes increasing illness and his own Peter Flanagan, born January 1st, 1948,
Lynam and Betty Healy on a top well into career pressures meant that from the mid- died September 13th, 2008.

58 Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 www.mountaineering.ie


www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Spring 2010 59

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