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Training Report

CAWNPORE
WOOLLEN MILLS
(BRITISH INDIA CORPORATION LIMITED)

By: Shivam Verma


3rd year
undergraduate
IIT DELHI

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT--

I am thankful to Mr M.K. Verma (General Manager), Mr Raja Mitra


Manager (P & A) for giving me an opportunity to take up these
projects which shall be beneficial to myself as well as to the
organization and also for providing all the help and guidance
whenever required.

I am highly thankful to my project guide Mr P.K. Singh Sir for his


constant support and guidance. He has been source of motivation and
encouragement at time of difficulties, providing me all the necessary
help towards successful completion of this project.

I am highly grateful to Mr Arun choudhary, Mr N.B. Singh, for


positively examine my work and encouraging me to do better.

I am also thankful to Mr U.C. Pandey and Mr S.S. Awasthi Sir for his
constant encouragement and support till the end.

The last but not the least I am also thankful to all the staff members
with whom I interacted and learnt a lot in past two months.

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CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that SHIVAM VERMA 3rd year Textile


Technology, IIT Delhi, Entry number 2011TT10965, has
completed the projects on In-depth analysis of the
present condition of Cawnpore Woollen Mills
successfully under the guidance of Mr P.K. Singh Sir
which will remain as a bona fide statement.

Raja Mitra
Manager (P & A)
CAWNPORE WOOLLEN
MILLS

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PROJECT DETAILS

This projects is an attempt to analyse one of the


greatest pioneers in woollen industry that this country
has ever witnessed from the inside as well as outside,
meaning the inside analysis involves:
o Analysing the efficiency of machinery in the
combing department
o Analysing machine efficiency and utilization of
the worsted spinning department
o Analysing the financial condition of the
company by performing S.W.O.T. Analysis and
ratio analysis
And the outside analysis involves:
o What are the major events that has happened
to this company
o What is the view of the public in the present
time by doing a survey
o What are the steps taken by the government
for the benefit of this company

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CONTENTS

1. Introduction about the company-


2. Origin and growth-
3. Products of lal imli-
4. PROCESS CHART-
5. Introduction to the departments-
o French combing department
o Finishing department
o Woollen carding and spinning department
o Worsted spinning department
o Quality control department
o Sulzer weaving department
o Dye house
o Mixing house
6. COMBING DEPARTMENT-
7. WORSTED SPINNING DEPARTMENT-
8. WEAVING DEPARTMENT-
9. Organisational structure of the company-
10. S.W.O.T. Analysis-
11. Statement of financial position-
12. Ratio analysis-
13. Questionnaire based survey to determine
consumer perception of lal-imli products-
14. Mundhra scam-
15. Reasons for the sickness of the mill-
16. Steps taken by the government-
17. What could have been?
18. References

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Introduction about the company-

Lal Imli is an acclaimed industry in the area of woollen it has a wide


coverage over products.
It manufactures best quality worsted as well as pure woollens and their
blends. It products are suitings lohis blanket blazers shawls and many
more with attractive design and varieties.

Origin and growth-

In 1876, five residents of Kanpur namely, Mr George Allen, Mr W.E. Cooper


Bevan Petman, Dr Condon and Mr Gavin S. Jones erected a small mill for
the manufacture, chiefly of army blankets. The original plant appears to
have consisted of cards and mules, followed by handlooms in the weaving
and power driven finishing plant. This company which was known as The
Woolen Mills Cawnpore continued until 1882, after which it was
converted into a public company with limited liability under the new
Indian companies Act. The name of the new company was THE
CAWNPORE WOOLEN MILLS AND ARMY CLOTES
MANUFACTURING COMPANY LIMITED. a name which it continued till 1914,
when opportunity of a change in the capital structures of the company
was taken to alter the name to the Cawnpore Woollen Mills Co. Ltd.

During the years of the Limited companys existence the private company
of Messrs, Cooper, Allen & Co., under the guidance of Mr. William Cooper
and Mr. George Allen acted as managing Agents, but they resigned this
position at the end of 1888 and thereafter the company managed its own
affairs under a board of Directors. The turning point in the companys
fortunes was the appointment, as Manager in 1884, of Mr. A. Mac Robert
who afterwards became Sir Alexander Mac Robert, Bart, K.B.E, LL. D. who
continued to direct the affairs of the company until his death in 1922.

Throughout his management of the Cawnpore woolen mills there was a


period of continued expansion. To the original woolen plant was added a
worsted plant in the late 1880s also a felt making plant and to absorb the
excess worsted yarns which the plant was capable of producing a Hosiery
plant, and power Looms with a fully equipped finishing plant to follow
were gradually installed. The lines of development were thus laid down at
a very early date and expansion continued along these lines until the end
of the First World War.

Thereafter, a gradual change in plant became necessary to meet the


increased demand for finer quality goods which had sprung up all over
India and while limitations of space precluded any large extension of
building. It was possible to obtain greater efficiency by regrouping of the
plant and buildings which were then available.

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The company suffered a grave setback in 1310 when a serious fire broke
out which smouldered for several months. The damage was largely
confined to the godowns containing the companys manufactured goods
and the bulk of its stock of raw materials but fortunately the
manufacturing plant was with the excerptor of some handlooms largely
untouched. The loss therefore although severe did not greatly affect the
working of the Mills, which was soon in a position again to enter the
market.

During 1910 and 1911 a large rebuilding programmed had been taken in
hand and this was completed in 1912, and the buildings then erected
contain the bulk of the Manufacturing plant. In the tears 1914 -18, as
during the whole of the present war, the entire productive capacity of the
Mills was placed at the disposal of Government., and was utilized under
orders issued by the government of India.

In the year 1920. The British India Corporation was established and
registered as a limited company, managed by a board of Directors. The
corporation was formed with the specific object of combining and
amalgamating was under one board of directors, the following business
with effect from fist of January 1920).

Cawnpore Woolen Mills Company Lal Imli, Kanpur (Est. in 1876)


Cooper Alien and Company Limited Kanpur (Estd. in 1881)
North west ternary Company Limited Kanpur (Estd. in 1881)
New Egerton tannery Co. Ltd Dhariwal Punjab (Estd. in 1882)
Cawnpore cotton mills Co. Ltd, KAKOMI, Kanpur (Estd. in 1883)
Empire Engineering Co. Ltd Kanpur (Estd. in 1884)

The fortunes of the company, and along with it, its unit Lal-Imli continued
to score new heights under the British Regime. It was during the 2nd
world war that mills were worked to full capacity so as to fulfill the larger
demand of woolen cloth for the British Armed forces and this was probably
the period when Lal-Imli achieved peak performance in terms of
production and capacity utilization, but by the time the war was over, the
writing on the wall was clear that sooner or later the British would have to
leave India.

The then management thus lost interest in the progress and development
of the woollen units and all activities of expansion and updating of plant
and machinery received a setback. The Indian private management which
took over from the Britishers also did not take any effective measures
towards restoring the mills to their normal health, the fortunes of the units
thus continued to waver

In 1956 when Sir Haridas Mundra was the Chairman of the company a
scam involving the issue of duplicate share certificates took place which
snow- balled into a major national issue. The scam took such proportions
that it had effects on the government exchequer and the then finance

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minister Sri T.T. Krishnamachari had to resign, over the issue. As a result
of the Mundra scam, the Board of directors of BIC was dissolved and a
fresh Board of directors was constituted by the high court of Allahabad. Sri
H.S Chaturvedi Retd. Judge was appointed as Chairman of BIC, and the
Vice Chancellor of Banaras Hindu University became the Vice Chairman.

In 1961-62 the British India Corporation acquired M/a. Begg Sutherland


and Co. by purchasing shares of the company and thus took over the
entire control and management of the corporation. This corporation
owned six companies viz.

1. The Elgin Mills Company, Limited, Kanpur.


2. Cownpore Textile Limited, Kanpur
3. Saran Engineering Company, Limited,
4. Brush ware Limited, Kanpur
5. Kanpur Sugar Works, Kanpur.
6. Chamapran Sugar Works.

During the 1970 the downward slide of the company continued and the
mills started inching towards sickness, by the year 1980 the mills were
almost on the verge of closure. To avoid such a disastrous end to the
pioneers of the woollen industry, BIC was taken over by the
Govt. of India on 11th June 1981 by a special act of the parliament The
British India
Corporation Ltd. (Acquisition of shares) Act, 1981.The private shares of
the company was thus acquired by the Govt. of India, the Govt. took
corrective measures in the form of partial doses of modernization to pull
BIC out of doldrums, but the same proved ineffective.

The company continued to incur losses especially because the modalities


of nationalization did not address the issue of old liabilities which
continued to exist. Even the loans taken by the private management prior
to nationalization continued to get compounded resulting in massive
accrual of liabilities. The rate at which such liabilities continued to grow
was definitely much higher than the companys activities.

As the company continued to incur losses, it was referred to the Board for
industrial and financial reconstruction (BIFR) on 31st March, 1991 under
the provisions of S.I.C.A the BIFR declared the company sick.

Products of lal imli-


Various products manufactured in Lal Imli are:

Lohis
Shawls
Blankets
Suitings
Trouserings
Blazer Cloth

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Tweed
Uniform Cloth

A Brief description of these are enumerated as follows:-


LOHIS:
Toosh (White)
Lohi No. 60 (Grey)
SHAWL:
Pashmina-pure wool, plain and of solid colour
BLANKETS:
Premier-reversible
Meghdoot-blend of wool and viscose
SUITINGS:
Pure wool and poly wool (PW)
Tweeds (PWV)
TROUSERINGS:
MW-221 (pure wool, worsted hosiery)
TS-3349 (blended)
UNIFORM CLOTH:
Angola Shirting (AD 3270)
Surge battle race coats
Bharathea

PROCESS CHART
1) Merino greasy wool
2) Scouring
3) Drying
4) Carding
5) First
6) combing(Purchased) [purchase top from other factories like
bhilwara, ashik ali wool mill Ahmedabad etc. nowadays]
7) Dye ring
8) Drying
9) Shade Matching
10) Gilling
11) Combing
12) gilling
13) Roving
14) Ring frame
15) Autoconer
16) Parallel Winding
17) Twisting
18) Ready Yarn
19) Yarn Stores
20) Weaving
21) Fabric(Grey)
22) Roll
23) Godown
24) Scouring

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25) Vanishing
26) Parching
27) Ware House
28) Packing
29) Delivery (to the parties, merchant, defense. Railway, police.)

Introduction to the departments

French combing department-


French combing is an example of linear combing. The process of
combing is accompanied by gilling- a process of evening out carded
or combed top making it suitable for spinning
French combed wool is the wool having a staple length intermediate
between that of clothing and combing wool.
If the required fabric Is top dyed then the 1 st combed top is send to
dyeing department, shade matching, dyed polyester/wool top is
dried. The dyed wool tops (polyester/viscose) are kept in the lots if
required blend and shade.
Reconbing- polyester/wool/viscose top received from shade matching is
subjected to recombing process which comprises of-
A) Gilling the main objective of gilling is mixing / homogenisation and
parallelisation and attenuation of the sliver.
Strong gill box
Old gill box
NSC gill box
Textima gill box
NSC gill box
B) Combing- the material is again passed on combers to remove short
fibres generated during dyeing. Antistatic agent is also added about 0.6to
0.7%.
C) Gilling- combed sliver is once again subjected to gilling procedure to
finally get the recombed top of required weight/metre
NSC gill box
Textima gill box
NSC gill box

Finishing department-

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In milling process there is a slight shrinkage both warp way as well as weft
way. In this process the width of the cloth has to be controlled as per the
requirements.
After the process of milling a light scouring is again given to the piece at
pH of 5.5 to 6.5 and piece dried in the tenter machine. After drying
woollen pieces example- blankets are raised before sending them on to
the finishing department, worsted 100%wool piece are sent directly to the
dry finishing department
Every wool piece where percentage of terylene is 30% or over are heat set
then singed using petrol flame of approximate 2 to3.5 cm length fibre with
the piece moving at the speed at 60 meter per minute approximate both
the size of the cloth are singed after singing the light wash is given after
which it is fried and autotentered where sometime a chemical finish may
also be applied after which the piece is send forward to the dry finishing
department
In the dry finishing department the cloth passes through various stages of
process depending in the type of cloth weather woollen or worsted or
100% wool or blended with other synthetic fibres
The process generally used in this departments
1) Picking
2) Brushing
3) Cropping
4) Blowing
5) Rotary press
6) Kier decasting finish
7) Kier decasting finish
8) Hydraulic press
9) Perching
10) Measuring
After going through the required process the pieces are finally sent to
the warehouse ready to be packed in the packing department and then
despatched to the merchants and other parties
Machines
Milling- 2machines
Scouring- 3 machines
Raising- 2 machines (automatic and semi-automatic)
Automatic- takado iron work Ltd. wakayama 1963
Semi-automatic- tomlinsons patent N0433409 tomlinsons (RD
chadale) Ltd. England
Tenter- 2 machines
1) Automatic

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2) E Gordon whitely patente & maker marley leeds England
Woollen carding and spinning department-
Wool is a type of material fibre also called protein fibre.
Australia is the worlds largest producer of the imported fine wool
followed by Africa.
Australia produces good quality, but Russia also produces wool in
great quality but the best wool is of Australian sheep called merino
wool. This wool is very soft. Mainly there are 3 types of wool.
i. Sheared wool- it is obtained generally twice a year
ii. Pulled wool- it is obtained by pulling the fibres from the slam of dead
sheep
iii. Tanned wool- it is obtained from skin, is subject to processing which
causes the fibre to resist dyeing. The tanned wool is therefore
inferior to even pulled wool.
In a woollen system of spinning a combination of short and long fibres is
run together on blended machine carding and ring frames to spin the yarn
of required count.
Some important products manufactured on woollen system
Blazer BC 95
Premier blanket
Meghdoot
Lama
Sathi
Cg379
Barrack
Process chart for BC 95 blazer for 64s clothing
For 64s clothing
Direct blending- oiled blending 6% unipro(wool batching oil) in the
ratio of 1:6 with water
Opening of wool fibres
Carding-separation and parallelisation of fibres, removal of external
impurities in wool fibres, then required TPI and count is given to the
carded sliver to go to the ring frame
Ring framefinal yarn is produced here
Winding is done to form packasges
Hard waste blending is done that is waste from different sources is
collected and subjected to garneting
Hard waste- waste generated from spun yarn and onwards.

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Soft waste- worsted and woollen waste generated during combing,
carding is subjected to willow machine for rag tearing
Garneting- a technique for opening up hard and soft waste textile products
with aa view to recycling them
The following blend of different waste is subjected to blending
30%willowed card waste
30% worsted hard waste
10% woollen hard waste
20% woollen & worsted rag
10% nylon
In woollen system department there are 3 opening machines, 6 carding
machines and 16 ring frames for producing woollen yarns.

Worsted spinning department-


In a worsted system a fine fibre of required count is manufactured using
combed yarn, at present important sorts produced on this system are lohi
No.60, gold mine, pure wool suiting, pure wool worsted (MW221) suiting,
viscose wool uniform cloth, serge battle dress(CG 233) and many others.
The following process sequence is followed for manufacturing a worsted
fabric.
Greasy wool-> scouring-> drying-> carding-> 1 st combing-> dyeing->
Drying-> shade matching-> gilling-> combing-> gilling-> roving frame->
ring frame-> yarn package.
Worsted spinning-
Recombed top is subjected to following procedures->
Drawing/gilling- at this stage fibre uniformly is further improved and
further parallelisation of fibres is achieved for this the material is passed
through a set of gill boxes/drawing machines
Gill box No. 1- antistatic spray is used, speed is around 100-120 m/min
Gill box No.2- autoleveler is installed to give more uniform feed and better
and uniform gilling but not at gill box No.1 because that will hamper
productivity.
Gill box No. 3 and gill box No.4 are on chain which is good for only pure
wool and they are intersecting as well.
The different stages provide uniformity to the sliver.
Attenuation /drafting is provided to reduce the sliver weight as per count
requirement.

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Roving frame-
Basic objective of roving is to provide draft to the sliver, this is to minimise
higher drafting at spinning stage small amount of twist is also provided to
give the additional strength to the roving. At this stage roving is converted
into the yarn of required TPI and count.
1. Creel
2. Drafting zone
a. Top roller
b. Bottom roller
c. Middle roller
d. Apron
e. Spacer
3. Spindle
4. Ring
5. Traveller
6. Separator
7. Drum pulley
8. Spindle break
9. Rockey pulley
10. Spindle tape
11. Particulars of ring frame-
12. Model no.- Mei super spinner, spindle-436
13. Spindle speed-6500rpm
14. Roller combination- 3 over 3
15. Middle to back- 85 mm
16. Diameter of roller- front roller 45mm middle roller 30 mm back
roller 35 mm
17. Lift-10 inches
18. Ring dia.- 2 inches
19. Roller load(pressure)- front 35 kgs middle 12kgs back 20 kgs
20. Relative humidity- 65%
21. Autoconer/winding

Quality control department-


Quality control is the "Barometer" of the industry or in other words it is
"Eyes of the mill". It keeps check on quality from raw material to the
finished product. Quality control can be broadly classified into the
following stages:-

Top Stage

Slubs: The slubs are examined very carefully and only 1 slub is allowed in
wool viscose or polyester of yard length.

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Neps: Material sd. be carefully analysed for neps in 1 yearn length of
material. The maximum of neps are allowed are:-
Wool - 5
Viscose - 7
Polyester - 31

Pin-points
These are very minute so care should be taken while examining it.
Permissive numbers in 1 yard are
Wool - 30
Viscose - 10
Polyester - 10

Entanglements
These are also checked by visually examining & its permissive number is 3
for wool, viscose as well as polyester in 1 yard of length.

Sliver weightt:
It is done simply by measuring 1 yard of sliver & weighting it.

Moisture Contents & Regain


Previously moisture analyser was used in Lal Imli but now a days it is done
by putting the sample in oven and taking its wt. immediately before &
putting it in oven. Moisture content can be calculated from the following
formula:
Moisture Content M = (wt. of water/total wt. of the material) x 100
Moisture regain R = (wt. of water/oven dry wt. of the material) x 100

Composition
It is mainly done for the doing of blend. It can be understood from the
following chart:-
Sample (2-4 gm)
Wool
2.5% HaoH, boiling for 15 mts.
NYLON
HCOOH formic acid at room temperature
VISCOSE
59% H2 SO4
COTTON
70% H2 SO4
POLYSTER
Phenol (Heating)

Fastness test
It is of 3 types.

a) Washing Fastness:
0.5% soap solution (non-ionic detergents for wool) is prepared and heated
at 50- 55C, the sample is then kept in this solution for 45 minutes. Its

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equipment is called as "Wash-Wheel". Another detergent and lissapol-100
x (liquid) and sodium oblate (powder form). After that sample is compared
with the previous sample and following things are noted:-
(i) Change in solution
(ii) Change in yarn
(iii) Change in wool
(iv) Change in colour
& appropriate rating is given to it.

b) Water Fastness: The sample is kept in distilled water for 4 hours after
that it is taken out dried and change in sample is noted.

c) Light Fastness: In testing of light fastness sample is half covered and


half open and kept under sunlight for one week after that it is compared
with grey scale and appropriate rating is given.

Fibre Fineness
1. Lana meter: It is somewhat like a microscope. The Fibres are placed
between two slides and put under this instrument, number of Fibres is
counted 400 times and then average is calculated.

2. Airflow Method: 1 gram of wool is kept in porous cylinder and


switched on. The rise in pressure is noted with respect to liquid (Hg).
Reading of rise of liquid is compared with graph & then its quality is
determined by measuring the fineness.

Yarn Stage:

A) Count: It is determined in woollen specially by quadrant balance in


which yarn sample is taken and hanged into hook and then reading of
pointer is noted down which denotes the count of the yearn. Formula =
(Length (m) x 453.6)/(weight (gm) x 560)

B) TOI: It is tested by tension type twist tester. It is threaded by the yarn.


Dial is set to zero reading. Then reading of dial is taken. When it gets
untwisted which may be checked by inserting a needle in the yarn. The
reading denotes the TPI of that yarn.

C) Breaking Strength & Elongation: It is tested by breaking strength


tester machine. In it the yarn is clamped and machine is started. Vertical
scale reading given elongation which is noted down. Quadrant scale is
used to measure the breaking strength.

D) Composition: The test for this is carried in the same way as in tops.

Fabric Stage:
A) Abrasion testing machine
B) Breaking strength testing machine

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1. Horizontal
2. Vertical
C) Composition
D) Pilling tester machine

A. Abrasion Testing Machine: The sample cloth is fabricated on the


upper and lower clamp. 3000 to 4000 revolutions is given and after that
condition of the sample is noted.

B. Breaking Strength Testing Machine: Two types of B.S. testing


machine are used. Vertical B.S.testing machine is used mainly for suiting
fabrics. The sample fabric of 15 cm width is taken. While horizontal B. S.
testing machine is used for testing of army clothes and samples should be
of 20 cm

C. Composition: It is also done in the same way as in tops.

D. Pilling tester machine: It is used for testing of balls on surface of


fabric. The machine has rough surface. The sample is kept in it and
particular amount of revolution is given and number of balls is noted

Sulzer weaving department-


Weaving is the process of interlacement of warp and weft threads which
are perpendicular to each other. Weaving is done on a machine called as
loom. Three types of looms are used in Lal Imli.

(i) Handloom
(ii) Power loom
(iii) Sulzer

Handlooms are operated manually by workers (weavers), Power loom are


driven by power while sulzer is a projectile loom i.e., a projectile is used to
insert the weft. Sulzer is automatic high speed loom. Every loom has three
basic operations:

(i) Shedding
(ii) Picking and
(iii) Beating

Weave designs has an important role in enhancing the attractiveness of


the fabric. Some basic weaves are:-

(i) Plain weave.


Repeat = 4
Interlacement= 4
Float = R/I = 4/4 = 1

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(ii) 2/2 it will weaver:
R=4
I=2
F = R/2 = 4/2 = 2

(iii) 2/1 it will weave:


R=3
I=2
F = R/I = 3/2 = 1.5

(iv) Basket weave:


R=4
I=2
F = R/I = 4/2 = 2

(v) Sateen Weave:


R=5
I=2
F = R/I =5/2 = 2.5

Cloth Setting: D x F/ F + I
D = Diameter
F = Float
There are 18 sulzer projectile looms in lal-imli out of which 12 are on
dobby and 6 are on tappet system.
Dye house-
Here dyeing of tops and fabrics of various materials are done.

(i) Long close machine: used for dyeing of wool tops.


(ii) High temperature high pressure machine: used for dyeing of polyester
fabrics.
(iii) Winch machine: for fabric dyeing.
(iv) Jigger machine: For dyeing of polyester-viscose blends.
(v) Beam dyeing machine: It is used for dyeing of fabric in the form of
beam in a closed vessel.
(vi) Peg machine: It is used for dyeing of loose and short Fibres.
(vii) Hydro machine: used for extraction of water.
(viii) Radiation Dryer machine is used for drying of dyed materials.
Mixing house-
In this department blending and mixing is done. It is done exclusively for
woollens. Two plants known as teaser machine are used for feeding in to
the hopper and collected at last. A wool batching oil known as unipro-38
used to prevent dryness and breakage of fires. The main object of this is
to mix the different waste thoroughly and uniformly.
Various raw material coming to lal-iimli are-

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1. Wool
a. Worsted(64s and 56s quality)
b. Woollen
2. Polyester
3. Viscose
4. Nylon

COMBING DEPARTMENT-
Objects of Comber:
1. To remove the short fibres below a pre-selected length so that the
spinner enable to produce finer or better quality of yarn that cannot be
possible in carding state.
2. Elimination of remaining impurities.
3. Elimination of large proportion (not all) of the neps in the fibre.
4. Formation of sliver having maximum possible evenness.
5. To straighten the fibres.
Contribution of Comber to Yarn Quality:
1. To improve the uniformity and strength
2. Improve the spinning value of fibre.
3. Reduce the neps in the yarn.
4. Improve smoothness and luster of yarn.
5. Produce much clear yarn.
6. Improve the efficiency of the next process.
7. Reduce the hairiness of the yarn.
8. Improve better twist distribution in the yarn.
The French combing process involves 5 passages gilling process, combing
process, prefinishing process and finishing process
The comber mainly straightens out the leading hooks. Thats why leading
hook must be presented to the comber. Reversal of the hook occurs at
each processing stage between the card and gilling/drawing and comber.
Therefore, definite number of machine passages is required in intervening
stages. In the case of cotton fibres percentage of leading hooks is more so
an even number of passages is required, but in the case of wool the
percentage of trailing hooks is more so odd passages is required that is
why there are 5 gilling passages.

1st passage gilling machine:


Name of the machine- strong gill
Input feed load- 12 ends X 20 gm/m = 240 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Output sliver weight- 40 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric)
36gm/m (for 56s drab mxture)

19 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Pitch of faller screw- 19 mm
Delivery speed- 40 m/min for both the fabrics
Faller drop- 350 per min
Faller pins- 10-1-3/4
2nd passage gilling machine:
Name of the machine- old gill
Input feed load- 5 ends X 40 gm/m = 200 gm/m
Actual draft- 6.7
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric)
33gm/m (for 56s drab mixture)
No. of faller screw- 42
Pitch of faller screw- 15 mm
Delivery speed- 64 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 72 m/min
(for 56s drab mixture)
Faller drop- 800 per min
Faller pins- 15-1-5/8
3rd passage gilling machine:
2 single coiler machines
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5
Input feed load- 6 ends X 30 gm/m = 180 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Draft range- 5.2 to 15
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric)
32gm/m(for 56s drab mixture)
Maximum speed- 300 m/min
Ratch- 35-45 mm
Pressure over top
Front roller- 250-300 kg/cm2
No. of faller screw- 72
Pitch of faller screw- 9 mm
Delivery speed- 103 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 103m/min
(for 56s drab mixture)
Faller drop- 1900 per min

20 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Faller pins- 16-1 (round) X 3.5 pins/cm
4th gilling passage:
Name of the machine- textima gill
Input feed load- 6 ends X 30 gm/m = 180 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Draft range- 3.6 to 11.75
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric)
32gm/m(for 56s drab mixture)
Maximum speed- 250 m/min
Ratch- 35-45 mm
No. of faller screw- 72
Delivery speed- 110 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 100-110
m/min (for 56s drab mixture)
Faller pins- 16-1(round) X 3.5 pins/cm
5th gilling passage:
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5 (bicoiler)
Input feed load- 6 ends X 30 gm/m = 180 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m {15 X 2} (for 64T40 barathea
fabric) 30gm/m(for 56s drab mixture)
Pitch of faller screw- 9 mm
Delivery speed- 103 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 103m/min
(for 56s drab mixture)
Faller pins- 15 X 21 X 1 (flat), 5 pins/cm

Combing machine:
12 combing machines
Name of the machine- NSC combs PB-28LC
Input feed load- 18 ends X 15 gm/m = 270 gm/m
Output sliver weight- 18 gm/m
Actual draft- 15
Nip distance- 28-30 mm
Pin density of the top comb- 28 pins/cm

21 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Pin density of circular comb- 6-32 pins/cm
Distance between circular
Brush and circular can- 2 mm
Setting between circular
Brush and doffer- 0.2 mm
Setting between upper
Nipper jaw and circular
Comb- 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 & 1 mm
Setting of lower nipper- proper
Setting between doffing
Knife and doffer- 0.2 mm
Setting between feed combs
And its fulcrum- 0.5 mm
Ratchet used- 18
Nip length- 5.4 mm for 64T40 barathea and 5.8 mm for 56s
drab mixture
Position feed grid- 4mm play between feed comb and upper
nipper jaw

Basic operations that the comber does are-


1. Lap feeding by feed roller
2. Lap nipping by the nipper
3. Combing by the cylinder
4. Nipper opening and forwarding
5. Detaching roller backward movement
6. Piecing
7. Combing by the top comb
8. Detaching roller forward movement
9. Starting a new cycle
10. Cleaning of cylinder comb

Prefinisher gilling passage:


Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5
Input feed load- 144 gm/m (8 ends X 18)
Draft- 8
Output sliver weight- 18 gm/m for both the fabrics

22 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Pins used- 15 X 21 X 1 (flat pins)
Pin density- 5 pins/cm
Rest parameters are same as in NSC GN-5 in precombing
Delivery rate- 137 m/min for both the fabrics
Finisher gilling passage:
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5
Input feed load- 8 ends X 18 gm/m = 144 gm/m
Actual draft- 8
Draft range- 5.2 to 15
Output sliver weight- 18 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric)
18gm/m (for 56s drab mxture)
Maximum speed- 300 m/min
Ratch- 35-45 mm
Pressure over top
Front roller- 250-300 kg/cm2
No. of faller screw- 72
Pitch of faller screw- 9 mm
Delivery speed- 137 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 136m/min
(for 56s drab mxture)
Faller drop- 1900 per min
Faller pins- 16 X 22 X 1 (flat) X 6 pins/cm

From 1st passage to finishing-

Number of faller have increased so that sufficient amount of


straightening at each stage
Fallers drop per minute has increased so that intensity of opening
increases
Delivery rate has increased means better gilling att each stage

The undesirable bending of the fibre ends produces fibre hook. It is the
disadvantages of web formation at the card. Hook fibres effectively
convert longer fibre to short fibres and these cannot be permitted in the
yarn. They must therefore be removed before yarn formation. This can be
done either by drafting at draw frame or combing at comber.

Basic faults-

23 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
a) Cutting across: Thick and thin places across the width of th web.
Causes:
The fault originates in the laps owing to the use of incorrect setting,
excessive draft at the lap former.
Incorrect timing of the detaching roller.
Top comb setting too deeply.
b) Curling: The term is applied when a group of fibres curls as they leave
detaching roller.
Causes:
Faulty detaching roller covering.
Dirt in the top detaching rollers.
Excessive brush speed.
Bent needle of cylinder and top comb.
c) Detaching roller lapping:
Causes:
Incorrect atmospheric condition.
Oil on rollers
Sticky matter or dirt on rollers
Worn out roller coating.
Bad top cleaners.
d) Irregular sliver:
Causes:
Excessive tension on calendar roller.
Improper roller setting.
Faulty adjustment of suction unit.
Eccentricity of roller.

output output theoretical actual Efficien


delivery delivery production production
rate speed rate (Kg/shift) rate
(gm/m) (m/min) (Kg/shift)
1st gilling 40, 36 40, 40 768, 691.2 499.28, 65.01, 5
passage 387.21
2nd gilling 30, 33 64, 72 921.6, 1140.48 654.3, 729.9 71, 64
passage
3rd gilling 30, 32 103, 103 1483.2, 1582.08 1008, 1028 67.9, 64
passage
4th gilling 30, 32 110, 105 1584, 1612.8 1124, 1080 70.95, 6
passage
5th gilling 30, 30 103, 103 1483.2, 1483.2 1067, 904 71.9, 60
passage
combing 270, 270 0.891, 0.957 115.47, 124.02 81, 88 70.1, 70
process
prefinishing 18, 18 137, 137 1183.68, 1183.68 816.73, 840 69, 71
stage
finishing 18, 18 137, 136 1183.68, 1175.04 852, 810.7 72, 69
stage

24 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Efficiency data for French combing process

*NOTE- in this table a,b denotes figure for fabric 64s barathea, 56s drab
mixture

Check list for gill boxes and combs in each shift


Production-
Setting of machine reading counter
Checking of number of doubling
Quality-
Checking of input and output sliver weight
Check fallers position and pin condition
Check suction bag if it is clean
Check ratch of the gill box
Check whether draft is proper
Check whether creel stop motion is working
Check whether delivery sliver stop motion working
Check condition and position of pressure over top rubber roller
Position of sliver guide (front and back)
Checking of batching oil or antistatic agent treatment

General-
Check whether housekeeping is proper or not
Check if any broken part or missing part found
Ensure cleanliness of cans if there is any sliver waste at the bottom
Check whether delivery rate is at desired level
Check if proper intensity of light over machine Is available or not
Check whether suction is proper, chamber of back noil is clean
Check condition of top combs, circular combs

WORSTED SOPINNING DEPARTMENT-


Approximately 4-5 years back when lal-imli was running in its full swing
many products were spun in the worsted spinning department, these are-

25 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
QUALITY/SORT count in productio
Nm n (Kg)
Royal touch MW- 2/50 78
6107
All wool toosh 2/50 102
lohi 4299
All wool 2/50 79
pashmina
all wool loho 2/45 147
No.60
all wool 2/45 117
kashmiri
all wool tweed 2/27 138
serge battle 2/18 286
dress
terry wool 2/54 142
suiting 6099
terrry wool 2/54 64
suiting 6040
polywool 2/36 97
bharaathea
wool viscose 2/38 89
trosg
angola suiting 2/38 96

For gill box No.1 we assume the percentage wastage from this gill box to
the final product would be around 7%
Also percentage efficiency calculated for this gill box came out to be 65%,
using this data we can calculate the percentage machine utilization
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT NUMBER OF
FROM GILL BOX NO.1 HEADS REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH 83.6 0.107
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 109.7 0.141
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 84.9 0.108
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 158.6 0.203
NO.60
ALL WOOL 125.8 0.161
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 148.4 0.19
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 307.5 0.394
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 152.7 0.163
SUITING 6099

26 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
TERRRY WOOL 69 0.074
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 104.3 0.133
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 95.7 0.102
TROSG
ANGOLA 103.2 0.132
SUITING
Total number of heads= 2.20
Number of heads available= 3
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X
100 = 2.20/3 X 100
Utilization = 73.5%

Similarly for the second gill box


Machine efficiency calculated is = 68%
Wastage percentage is = 7%
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT NUMBER OF
FROM GILL BOX NO.2 HEADS REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH 83.6 0.116
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 109.7 0.152
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 84.9 0.118
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 158.6 0.22
NO.60
ALL WOOL 125.8 0.175
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 148.4 0.206
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 307.5 0.428
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 152.7 0.212
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 69 0.096
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 104.3 0.145
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 95.7 0.133
TROSG
ANGOLA 103.2 0.143
SUITING
Total number of heads= 2.144
Number of heads available= 3

27 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X
100 = 2.144/3 X 100
Utilization = 71.4%

For the 3rd gilling passage


Calculated machine efficiency = 70.5 %
Wastage percentage = 7 %
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT NUMBER OF
FROM GILL BOX NO.3 HEADS REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH 83.6 0.105
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 109.7 0.136
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 84.9 0.105
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 158.6 0.196
NO.60
ALL WOOL 125.8 0.156
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 148.4 0.184
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 307.5 0.381
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 152.7 0.189
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 69 0.085
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 104.3 0.129
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 95.7 0.118
TROSG
ANGOLA 103.2 0.128
SUITING
Total number of heads= 1.909
Number of heads available= 3 (2
heads per machine)
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X
100 = 1.909/3 X 100
Utilization = 63.6 %

For the 4th gilling passage


Calculated machine efficiency = 69 %
Wastage percentage = 7 %

28 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT NUMBER OF
FROM GILL BOX NO.4 HEADS REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH 83.6 0.087
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 109.7 0.115
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 84.9 0.089
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 158.6 0.166
NO.60
ALL WOOL 125.8 0.132
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 148.4 0.155
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 307.5 0.322
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 152.7 0.16
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 69 0.072
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 104.3 0.109
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 95.7 0.1
TROSG
ANGOLA 103.2 0.108
SUITING
Total number of heads= 1.615
Number of heads available= 3 (4
heads per machine)
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X
100 = 1.615 /3 X 100
Utilization = 53.8 %

Machine utilization for roving frame machine-


Percentage wastage from roving to final product = 5%
Speed of roving is = 800 rpm

QUALITY/SORT REQUIRE T.P.M. ROVI EFFICIE ACTUAL NUMB


D REQUIR NG NCY % PRODUC ER OF
OUTPUT ED FOR WEIG TION HEADS
FROM ROVING HT REQUI
ROVING GM/M RED

29 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
FRAME
ROYAL TOUCH 82.2 34.55 0.4 65 2.89 28.44
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 107.4 34.55 0.4 67 2.97 36.16
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 83.2 34.55 0.4 66 2.93 28.39
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL 154.8 34.29 0.5 65 3.63 42.64
LOHO NO.60
ALL WOOL 123.2 34.29 0.5 64 3.58 34.41
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 145.4 21.58 0.8 66 9.39 15.48
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 301.2 19.3 1 68 13.52 22.27
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 260.1 34.55 0.4 62 2.75 94.58
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 67.4 34.55 0.4 63 2.8 24.07
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 102.2 26 0.6 62 5.49 18.61
BHARAATHEA
WOOL 93.8 26 0.6 65 5.76 16.28
VISCOSE
TROSG
ANGOLA 101.1 26 0.6 67 5.93 17.04
SUITING

Total number of heads = 378.37


Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles available =
128
Machine utilisation = (387.37/3)/128 = 126.123/128 = 0.9853
Percentage machine utilisation = 98.53 %
Machine utilisation for ring spinning-
Percentage wastage from ring spun yarn to final product = 2%
Spindle speed of ring frame is 7000 rpm
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED T.P.M. YARN EFFICIE ACTUAL NUMB
OUTPUT REQUIRED WEIGHT NCY % PRODUCT HEAD
FROM RING FOR RING GM/M ION REQU
FRAME
ROYAL TOUCH 79.6 727.55 0.02 80 0.074
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 104 650.39 0.02 82 0.084

30 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 80.6 650.39 0.02 80 0.082
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 150 629.13 0.022 77 0.09
NO.60
ALL WOOL 119.3 629.13 0.022 83 0.097
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 140.8 440.15 0.037 82 0.231
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 291.7 453.14 0.055 75 0.305
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 144.8 729.52 0.018 77 0.063
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 65.4 729.52 0.018 79 0.065
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 98.9 572.83 0.027 83 0.131
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 90.8 570.86 0.026 84 0.128
TROSG
ANGOLA 97.9 570.86 0.026 81 0.123
SUITING
Total number of heads =
13323.5
Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles
available = 14400
Machine utilisation = 13323.5/14400 = 0.925
Percentage machine utilisation = 92.5 %

Machine utilisation for autowinding-


Percentage wastage from yarn produced by this machine to final product
=1%
Drum speed is = 800 m/min
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRE YARN EFFICIE ACTUAL NUMBER OF
D WEIGH NCY % PRODUCT HEADS REQUIRED
OUTPUT T ION
FROM GM/M

31 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
RING
FRAME
ROYAL TOUCH 78.8 0.02 45 3.45 22.884
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 103 0.02 46 3.53 29.17
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 79.8 0.02 47 3.6 22.16
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 148.5 0.022 43 3.63 40.9
NO.60
ALL WOOL 118.1 0.022 42 3.54 33.36
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 139.4 0.037 40 5.68 24.54
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 288.8 0.055 46 9.71 29.74
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 143.4 0.018 47 3.24 44.25
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 64.6 0.018 43 2.97 21.75
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 98.9 0.027 45 4.66 21.22
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 89.9 0.026 42 4.19 21.45
TROSG
ANGOLA 96.9 0.026 46 4.59 21.11
SUITING

Total number of heads = 332.53


Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles
available = 450
Machine utilisation = 332.53/450 = 0.738
Percentage machine utilisation = 73.8 %

Machine utilisation for textool doubling machine-


Percentage wastage from yarn produced from this stage to the final yarn
= 0.5 %
Drum speed = 400 m/min

QUALITY/SORT REQUIRE YARN EFFICIE ACTUAL NUMBER


D WEIGHT NCY % PRODUCT OF
OUTPUT GM/M ION HEADS

32 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
FROM REQUIRE
RING D
FRAME
ROYAL TOUCH 78.4 0.04 70 5.37 14.59
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 102.5 0.04 72 5.52 18.56
TOOSH LOHI
4299
ALL WOOL 79.4 0.04 73 5.6 14.17
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL 147.7 0.044 75 6.336 23.31
LOHO NO.60
ALL WOOL 117.6 0.044 68 5.74 20.48
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 138.7 0.074 69 9.8 14.15
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 287.4 0.11 65 13.72 20.94
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 142.7 0.036 66 4.56 31.29
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 64.3 0.036 73 5.04 12.75
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 97.5 0.054 70 7.25 13.44
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 89.4 0.052 71 7.08 12.62
TROSG
ANGOLA 96.5 0.052 70 7.68 12.56
SUITING

Total number of heads = 208.86


Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles
available = 360
Machine utilisation = 208.86/360 = 0.5801
Percentage machine utilisation = 58.01 %
Machine utilisation for TFO machine-
Since this is the final product therefore there is assumed to be no wastage
Spindle speed is = 13000 rpm
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRE T.P.M. YARN EFFICIE ACTUAL NUMBER OF
D REQUIR WEIG NCY % PRODUCT HEADS
OUTPUT ED FOR HT ION REQUIRED
FROM RING GM/M
RING
FRAME
ROYAL TOUCH 78 727.55 0.04 80 0.274 284.67
MW-6107
ALL WOOL 102 650.39 0.04 81 0.31 329.03
TOOSH LOHI

33 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
4299
ALL WOOL 79 650.39 0.04 82 0.314 251.59
PASHMINA
ALL WOOL LOHO 147 629.13 0.044 85 0.37 397.3
NO.60
ALL WOOL 117 629.13 0.044 76 0.331 353.47
KASHMIRI
ALL WOOL 138 440.15 0.074 83 0.87 158.62
TWEED
SERGE BATTLE 286 453.14 0.11 82 1.24 230.64
DRESS
TERRY WOOL 142 729.52 0.036 81 0.249 570.28
SUITING 6099
TERRRY WOOL 64 729.52 0.036 77 0.237 270.04
SUITING 6040
POLYWOOL 97 572.83 0.054 78 0.458 211.79
BHARAATHEA
WOOL VISCOSE 89 570.86 0.052 74 0.42 211.9
TROSG
ANGOLA 96 570.86 Jan-00 76 0.431 222.73
SUITING

Total number of heads =


3492.06 Number of shifts = 3
Number of
spindles available = 5047
Machine utilisation = 3492.06/5047 = 0.6919
Percentage machine utilisation = 69.19 %

The overall utilization of the spinning department can be found out by


multiplying number of machines with its utilization and then adding all
these terms and then divide it by total machines in the department, that
is-
Total utilization = [73.5 X 1 + 71.4 X 1 + 63.6 X 1 + 53.8 X 1 + 98.53 X 3
+ 92.5 X 12 + 73.8 X 4 + 58.01 X 1 + 69.19 X 12] / 36 = 79.20
TOTAL YTILIZATION = 79.20 %

WEAVING DEPARTMENT-

When yarn packages arrive in weaving department it is first checked that


the quality of yarn packages is good and fulfils the requirements, it is then
send for

34 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Sectioning
Warping
Healding in the heald eyes for selvedge, main body and the
monogram (according to the design to be produced)
Load the beam on the loom
Beam gatting
1st pick inserted
Machine cleaning, maintenance, oiling, greasing
Check machine if heald frame is in jack, reed is tight
Small amount is produced
Patron checking- to check in every heald if the pattern is correct or
not
To check PPI, EPI, plan checking
To produce the fabric

Insertion cycle of the projectile machine-


a) The projectile is put in launching position, the weft is hold at its end by
the weft carrier and is controlled by the weft tensioner, by the weft brake
and by the eyelet situated in proximity of the feeding bobbin.

b) The weft carrier gets open after the projectile clamp has got hold of the
end of the weft thread.

c) The projectile is launched and crosses the shed dragging with itself the
weft, while the weft tensioner and the weft brake operate in a way as to
minimize the stress on the yarn (the critical phases are particularly the
initial acceleration phase and the final stop phase in the collector box).

d) The projectile on the one hand and the weft carrier on the other take up
the right position to build up the selvedge, while the tensioner arm opens
to adjust the weft tension.

e) The weft carrier closes while the selvedge clamps get hold of the weft
thread on both sides and the projectile clamp is opened to release the
weft end.

f) The thread is cut by the scissors on the launching side, while the
projectile is placed in the transport chain. Loading of the torsion bar:
a) Torsion bar in rest, knee-joint lever in articulate position.
b) Loading phase.

35 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
c) Torsion bar in tension and knee joint lever in stable position,
before the launching
control by roller.
g) The weft is beaten by the reed, while the weft carrier moves back to its
initial position and the weft tensioner opens further to recover the thread
piece and to keep it under tension. The projectile is brought back to the
launching zone.

h) The selvedge needles insert the weft ends into the subsequent shed
(tuck-in selvedge), while a new projectile is placed in launching position.

Parts of picking mechanism in sulzer projectile loom-


1. Torsion bar: it has splinted ends as seen in the fig one end is secured
firmly at the clamping flange with provision for adjusting twisting angle.
The twisting length of the torsion is 721 mm. Its diameter is 17 mm.
Larger the diameter higher the initial projectile speed. The angular
twisting of torsion bar at commencement of picking is 28-30O.
2. Picking shaft: The free end of the torsion bar is linked with the picking
shaft through spines.

3. Picking lever: The picking lever is clamped on the picking shaft.


4. Picking shoe: The picking lever carries the picking shoe at its top end.
5. Picking shaft lever: It is a rigid part of the picking shaft.
6. Toggle plates: The toggle plates carry a roller and connected to the
picking shaft lever through a link. They are covered at the bottom.
7. Picking cam: It is mounted on a shaft and rotated by bevel wheels once
every pick. It rotates in the clockwise direction. It carries a roller after the
nose part.
8. Oil break: The shock of the picking is taken by the oil break.

Light signals-
Blue light blinking- warp thread breakage.
Yellow light blinking- weft thread breakage, shut down via switch-off
button 6.
Yellow and red light blinking- shut down via emergency switch 8.
Yellow light- specified length of fabric attained.
Red light blinking- mechanical fault (annunciator for foreman).

36 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Red light blinks when machine is in operation- electronic projectile
detector or weft detector shut off

Machine does not start up-


This is probably because of the following reasons-

Signal lamps do not light up- Main switch 4 switched off. Attention:
make sure that service personnel is not working on the machine
All three signal lamps blinking-
Red and yellow signal lamps blinking-
Red signal lamp blinking-Shed levelling device in working position,
turn hand wheel until stop motion engages level shaft or hand wheel
of pick finding device in working position.
Mechanical or electronic fault

Changing the speed of the machine-


Each v belt is provided with seven spacing discs having a thickness of 1
mm and two spacing discs with a thickness of 0.5 mm.
The speed can be increased (or reduced in reverse order) by removing
spacing discs from the v belt guide and inserting them on the rear side of
the end discs.
The number and thickness of the spacing discs are to be the same in each
of the four v belt guides likewise the number and thickness are to be the
same on the rear of the end discs.
The difference in speed resulting from the displacement of a spacing disc.

37 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Production data for few years in weaving department-

YEAR Production of Value of Utilization of the


cloth in meters produced cloth machinery %
in INR
2005-06 465000 114567000 27.11
2006-07 249000 47207000 27.10
2007-08 52000 9700000 13.72
2008-09 24000 4280000 4.99
2009-10 42000 8800000 4.06
2010-11 6000 869000 1.01
2011-12 17000 4051000 1.85
2012-13 20000 6400000 1.65
2013-14 21000 6700000 1.70

As it is clear that the production in this department has been declining


drastically mainly because of absence of raw material due to less demand
in the market, but still the machinery present in this department is in the
working condition.

THE BRITISH INDIA CORPORATION was registered as a Limited


Company on the 24th February, 1920. It was founded by the late Sir
Alexander Mac Robert. The corporation was formed with the specific

38 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
object of combining and amalgamating, under one Board of Directors, the
following business with effect from the 1 st of January, 1920. CAWNPORE
WOOLLEN MILLS CO. manufacturers of the well-known "LALIMLI" brand of
all- wool, pure wool materials - Kanpur (Established in 1876).
COOPER ALLEN & CO. Ltd. proprietors of the largest Army Boot and
Equipment Factory in the world Kanpur (Established in 1881)
NORTH West Tannery Co. Ltd., Proprietors of the largest and the
most up-to date Tannery in the East Kanpur (Established in 1881).
NEW EGERTON WOOLLEN MILLS CO. Ltd., Sole manufacturers of the
celebrated "DHARIWAL" long life wool wear Dhariwal, Punjab.
(Established in 1882).
CAWNPORE COTTON MILLS CO. Ltd., Sole manufacturers of the
unsurpassed "KAKOMI" Cotton Yarns and Fabrics Kanpur (Established in
1882).
Empire Engineering Co. Ltd., Civil, Mechanical, Motor and
Constructional Engineers, Contractors and Builders Kanpur (Established
in 1894).
Over the years four of the above companies have shut down their
businesses and are no longer in existence. Only two of the business units
are in existence and are running as on date viz., Cawnpore Woollen Mills
Branch, Kanpur, and New Egerton Woollen Mills Branch, Dhariwal, Punjab.
The Company changed hands from British interests to the Indian business
families of MUNDRAS and then BAJORIAS between 1955 and 1962
In February 1963 the management of BIC got vested with an elected
Board with the approval of Central Government as well as UTI, LIC and
Banks.
In June, 1981, BIC became a Government Company through an
Ordinance promulgated by the Government of India.
It is a Public Sector undertaking, under the control of Ministry of Textiles,
Government of India, and is the only P.S.U. manufacturing Woollen Textiles
in the country.
On the basis of its financial position, the company was referred to the
Board for Industrial and Financial Reconstruction (BIFR) on 31st March,
1991.
Rehabilitation Scheme of B.I.C. was approved by BIFR in Feb. 2008. As
per direction of cabinet the M.D.R.S. was reassessed by I.F.C.I. & W.R.A.
and forwarded to BRPSE for its approval. The scheme was approved by
BRPSE on 28th July, 2010. It is expected that the cabinet approval and
other formalities will be completed shortly and thereafter production
activities shall resume in full swing.

39 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Organisational structure of the company-

Administrative and technical setup


P.K. SHARMA General Manager
FINANCE
R.C. Sharma Dy. Manager (F&A)
ADMINISTRATION
Raja Mitra Manager (P&A)
S.K. Upadhaya Manager (L&S)
TECHNICAL
N.B.Singh Worsted Superintendent
A.K.Gupta Weaving Superintendent.
S.K. Mishra Woollen Superintendent
Manish Shukla Dyeing Master
SALES
S.N. Verma Manager Sales
Address: 11/6, Parvati Bangla Road, Post Box No. 77, Kanpur 208 001
(U.P.) India
Phone: 0512-2530212, 2530213, 2530214
Fax: 0512-2530201
E-mail: bicltdsps@yahoo.co.in

B.I.C. Limited was declared as sick company in 1992, and was referred to
Board for Industrial & Financial Reconstruction (BIFR). The Government
proposed a Rehabilitation Scheme for the company in 2000 and BIFR
approved the revival of the two Woollen Mills Cawnpore Woollen Mills
Branch (Lal Imli) & NEWM Branch, Dhariwal, Punjab. The cost of the BIFR
approved rehabilitation scheme was Rs. 210.51 crores. The Government
has released Rs. 86.00 crores as envisaged in the scheme to BIC Ltd., The
said Rehabilitation Scheme could not be implemented within the
stipulated time frame mainly due to non-cooperation of UP Govt. in
granting necessary permission for converting leasehold land into freehold

40 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
at free of charge or with minimum charges, because the main source to
finance the scheme was to be generated through the sale of surplus
assets. The BIFR reviewed the matter on November 29, 2005 and issued
direction that the company and operating agency i.e. IDBI should prepare
a modified Draft Rehabilitation Scheme and submit the same for
consideration of BIFR. Accordingly, the draft modified rehabilitation
scheme was submitted to BIFR. The BIFR considered the scheme in its
hearing dated 14.2.2007. Minutes of the meeting are awaited.
Mission-
To cater the demands of woollen and worsted goods to Indian Defence
Forces, Para-military Forces, Government Bodies and Indian Citizens with
quality and on market compatible price.
Objective of the company-
To contribute at our best in fulfilling the big demand of Woollen and
Worsted goods of Defence and Para-military Forces, Government Bodies
and our Civilians vis-a-vis Private Sector.

Being a Public Sector unit to act as a factor for the Government to


rein in the Private Sector lest it should exploit the monopoly in the
market.
To create the marketing opportunities in the virgin areas of the
market.
To create a suitable environment and facility for proper R&D work to
propel the prospects of our products in the market.
To enable us as a Brand Ambassador of the Government regarding
Woollen goods in the market since we have the oldest legacy of
woollen products in the nation.
To discharge the social responsibilities of an organization with due
direction of the Government.

S.W.O.T. Analysis-
Strength-
Lal-imli is an established company since 1876 (138 years)
The company is recognised globally
It produces high standard quality woollen products
Lal Imli employees are highly experienced persons Lal Imli
employees are highly experienced people.
Weakness-
Financial problems
Employees are not trained in a modern way
Internal conflicts (agency costs involved)

41 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
No focus on sales promotion and advertising
Opportunity-
Central government provide time to time financial support
Government give managerial support
Already a well-recognised and established brand all over the world
Can create demands in restrictions of its capabilities by innovations,
great demand can provide finance to initiate greater supply
Threats-
Very difficult to compete with modern rival companies who have
already captured the market
Modernisation of technology or a technological revolution before the
company gets a chance to revive its full capacity
High cost of production of lal-imli products and lower profit margins
before the renovation of the company

Statement of financial position-


The statement of financial position summarises the companys financial
position. It must be remembered that the statement of financial position
(the balance sheet) is a snapshot of events at one point in time.
Effectively, the statement consists of two lists:
1. A list of everything owned by the business
2. A list of the various sources of finance used to fund these acquisitions.
Everything of value which is owned by a business is called an asset.
Finance can be provided by the owners of the business (equity) or by
third parties (liabilities).
Assets = Equity + Liabilities
Non-current assets + Net current assets = Equity + Long-term
liabilities. Where:
Net current assets = Current assets - Current liabilities.

Ratio analysis-
Current ratio-
This ratio is used to assess whether the company will be able to pay its
bills over the next few months. It provides a comparison of an estimate of
the amount of money due to be received in the short term with an
estimate of the amount of money to be paid.
Current asset = current assets / current liabilities

42 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
The current ratio for the company is = 45233194 / 138327902 = 0.326
The current ratio of the company is very low which shows that its liquidity
in short term is very poor and it will be very difficult for the company to
fulfil its current liabilities from its current assets.
Debtors turnover ratio-
This is a measure of the average length of time taken for debtors (trade
receivables) to settle their balance.
Debtors turnover period = (trade receivables (debtors)/sales) X 365
DTR of the company is = 546098 / 7562537 = 0.072
This ratio being so small shows that a very small fraction of the sales
volume is used to give debts which shows that the company is unable to
trust on its customers, but also since the company is in a sick kind of
situation it is not expected from it that it will give any of its small sales in
debt to its customers.
Interest coverage ratio-
Interest cover on an issue of loan capital is defined to be the profit on
ordinary activities before interest and taxation divided by the annual
interest payments due on that issue of the loan capital and on all prior
ranking loan capital.
ICR = the profit on ordinary activities before interest and taxation/ annual
interest payments
The ICR of the company is = -347047507 / 128222543 = -1.706
Asset cover ratio-
Asset cover on an issue of loan capital is defined to be total assets less
current liabilities less intangible assets all divided by the loan capital plus
prior ranking debt.
Asset cover = total assets less current liabilities less intangible assets /
loan capital plus prior ranking debt
The asset cover of the company is = 112791784 / 13832702 = 8.15
The asset cover of the company is decent and it depicts that it will be able
cover its liabilities in case of liquidation by selling its non-current assets.
ROCE-
Return on capital employed is the most important profitability ratio
indeed it is often referred to as the primary ratio or return on
investment. It measures the relationship between the amount invested in
the business and the returns generated for those investors.

43 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
The calculation of return on capital employed is complicated by the fact
that capital employed can be measured in a number of different ways. It is
vitally important that the figure for return is calculated in a consistent
manner with that for capital employed.
ROCE = net profit before tax / total assets current liabilities
ROCE for the company is = -347047507 / 25536118 = -13.59
As the profit for the company is negative it is quite clear that return on
capital employed would be negative.
Profit margin-
Profit margin = net profit before tax and interest / revenue (turnover)

The profit margin for the company is = -347047507 / 8876843 = -39.09

The profit margin is also negative but its magnitude is great because the
company has faced a lot of loss for selling its products but still the
company is able to sell and produce because of the funding provided by
the government of India as its a subsidiary of government.

Looking by a few ratios we can see that the company is sick but the
company is still able to produce and manufacture some of its great
products. However small there is still a chance of revival of the company if
some rightful measures are taken.

Questionnaire based survey to determine consumer


perception of lal-imli products-
Statement of problem-
After an employee has been selected for a job, has been trained to do it
and has worked on it for a period of time, his performance should be
evaluated. Performance evaluation or appraisal is the process of deciding
how employees do their jobs performance here refers to the degree of
accomplishment of the tasks that make up an individual is fulfilling the job
requirements. Performance appraisal system is not only used in private
sector but all the private sector are still using it. There are different
methods of appraisal these can be the traditional & modern methods. The
company (Lal Imli) is following the traditional methods of appraisal (self-
appraisal/assessment * ACR) which is not up to the mark.
Sample Area-
The sample taken for this research was limited to customers and retailers
in Kanpur city only.
Sampling technique-

44 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
In my summer training I used simple random sampling for my survey and
my report for accuracy in analysis of data.
Sample size-
For this project I have used the questionnaire method. The questionnaire
contains 10 questions which was distributed to 100 Respondents.
Source of data-
The data collected includes
1. Primary data
a. Information through questionnaire
b. Direct personal interview
2. Secondary data
a. Company records
b. Internet
c. Direct contact with the employees
d. Personal observation

The company Lal Imli is following the traditional methods of PA since 1876
when the company was established. In this method a personal file of each
and every individual was maintained by personal department which
evaluate there past performance of employees on the basis of these
details employees promotional and compensational decision was taken by
the personal department. The oral appraisal system was also popular in
the company. In 2010 ACR and say appraisal system assessment were in
force by the company.

Questionnaire-

Q-1.Do you want change in Lal Imlis product?


A.)Dont know B.) No change C.)Small change D.)Big change
Series 1
35
30
25

10

Q-2.Which quality do you like Lal Imlis product?

45 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
A.)Quality B.)Colour C.)Designs D.)Price
Series 1

50

25

15
10

qua lity colo ur des ign pr ice

Q-3. In which quality Lal Imlis products differ from other similar
product
Manufacturing companies (that you like)?
A.)Quality B.)Colour C.)Designs D.)Price
Series 1
38
32

23

qu a lity colo ur des ign pr ice

Q-4.In your opinion advertisement is necessary for Lal Imlis


product?
A.)Yes B.)No
Series 1
95

ye s no

Q-5.What is the main reason of struggling the Lal Imlis product in


the market?
A.)Old fashion B) New competition C) High price D) dont know

46 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Column1
46
39

11
4

Q-6.What is your personal feeling about Lal Imlis product?


A.)Very good B) Good C.) Simple D) Bad
Series 1

50
45

ve r y g o o d good s im ple ba
0d

Q-7.Which soap you prefer for the washing of Lal Imlis product?
A.)Rin B.)SurfExel C.)Tide D.)Others
Series 1
38

26
24

12

rin s u r f exc e l tide o the r s

Q-8.Which product of Lal Imli do you like most?


A.)Shawls B) Trousering C) Suiting D) Others

47 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Series 1
Series 1
28 27 28

17

s hawls tro u s e r i n g s u i ti n g o the r s

Q-9.Are you satisfied with the position of the Lal Imli?


A.)Yes B.)No
Series 1

68

32

ye s no

Q-10.Do you want to visit Lal Imli?


A.)Yes B.) No

Series 1
93

ye s no

Data interpretation-

48 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
People are unaware about the condition of lal-imli but still
recognises it as a brand.
In general young people are unaware about the company.
Almost all types of products are equally liked by the public.
People have faith in the quality and durability of products provided
by lal-imli.
Most of the people think that products of lal-imli are old fashioned
and is constantly lagging behind its competitors in the market.
There is a huge requirement felt by almost everyone in the sample,
for lal-imli to advertise its products for increasing its sales volume.
BIC still has reputation within its customer base.

Limitations of the study-

Sample size is in a way biased because it is restricted to people


living in Kanpur city
Sample size is small
Only bounded questions are used for this survey which includes only
objective questions
Inaccuracy in collection of data because of one person working
People sometimes give wrong choices, therefore it very difficult to
know what they really want

Mundhra scam-
In 1956 when SRI HARIDAS MUNDRA was the chairman of the company
a scam involving the issue of duplicate share certificates took place which
snow-balled into a major national issue.
Haridas Mundhra was a Calcutta-based industrialist and stock
speculator who was found guilty and imprisoned in the first big financial
scandal of free India in the 1950s. The Mundhra scandal exposed the rifts
between the then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and his son-in-
law Feroze Gandhi, the scam took such proportions that it had effects on
the government exchequer and also led to the resignation of India's
then finance Minister T. T. Krishnamachari.
In 1957, Mundhra got the government-owned Life Insurance
Corporation (LIC) which was influenced by Finance Minister T. T.
Krishnamachari to invest Rs. 1.24 crores in the shares of six troubled
companies belonging to Mundhra: Richardson Cruddas, Jessops &

49 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
Company, Smith Stanistreet, Osler Lamps, Agnelo Brothers and British
India Corporation with no real standing in order to boost the prices of
those companies in the stock market. The investment was done under
governmental pressure and bypassed the LICs investment committee,
which was informed of this decision only after the deal had gone through.
In the event, LIC lost most of the money.

Standing from the treasury benches, Feroze Gandhi asked the government
whether the newly formed Life Insurance Corporation had used premiums
from 5.5 million life-insurance policyholders to buy up shares at above-
market prices in the companies controlled by a notorious stock speculator
named Haridas Mundhra.

Thus the prime minister was confronted by his own son-in-law. The fierce
Finance minister, himself a noted industrialist, initially snapped "That is
not the fact, but had to admit later that this in fact was the case.

Several leading stockbrokers who were on the LIC Investment Committee


testified that the investment could not have been made for the purpose of
propping up the market, as was claimed by the Finance Ministry, and that
had the LIC consulted the Investment Committee, they would have
pointed out Mundhra's forged shares episode from 1956.
The committee passed strictures against finance minister for "lying". The
Finance Minister T. T. Krishnamachari, in his testimony tried to distance
himself from the LIC decision, implying that it may have been taken by the
Finance Secretary, but the Minister is constitutionally responsible for the
action taken by his secretary and he disown his actions. Eventually,
Krishanamachari had to resign. And Haridas Mundhra was jailed for 22
months.
As a result of the Mundra Scam, the Board of Directors of BIC was
dissolved and a fresh Board of Directors was constituted by the High Court
of Allahabad. Sri H.S. Chaturvedi Retired. Judge was appointed as
Chairman of BIC, and the Vice Chancellor of Banaras Hindu University
became the Vice Chairman.
During the 1970s the downward slide of the company continued and the
mills started inching towards sickness. By the year 1980 the mills were
almost on the verge of closure. To avoid such a disastrous end to the
pioneers of the Woollen Industry, BIC was taken over by the Govt. of India
on 11th June, 1981 by a special act of the Parliament "The British India
Corporation Ltd. (Acquisition of Shares) Act, 1981."
The private shares of the company was thus acquired by the Government
of India, The Govt. took corrective measures in the form of partial doses of
modernization to pull BIC out of doldrums, but the same proved
ineffective.
As the company continued to incur losses, it was referred to the Board for
Industrial and Financial Reconstruction (BIFR) on 31st March, 1991 under

50 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
the provisions of S.I.C.A. The BIFR declared the company sick. Since then,
it has been incurring huge losses because of obsolete machinery, surplus
staff and shortage of working capital.

Reasons for the sickness of the mill-


Outdated machinery- Low output because of outdated machinery
Lack of modernization- no computers in the offices except at some
places where they were not used.
Low motivation of the staff
Trade union troubles- Company was not able to pay off the salaries
of labours. Lot of strikes happened because of non-payment of
salaries. As a result labour union was formed to resolve the issues.
Though labour union arouse the whole problem in spite of solving
them. Labour union started demanding lot of facilities and
incentives for labour which the firm was not able to afford.
Corruption
Lack of HR policies
Old liabilities- The Company continued to incur losses especially
because the modalities of nationalization did not address the issue
of old liabilities which continued to exist. Even the loans taken by
the private management prior to nationalization continued to get
compounded resulting in massive accrual of liabilities. The rate at
which such liabilities continued to grow was definitely much higher
than the company's activities.
No young people working in the mill
Less knowledge by the staff about the processes involved in the mill
No telephonic connection between the departments

Steps taken by the government-


The latest revival package approved by the central government included a
grant of Rs 17 crore for introduction of a voluntary retirement scheme for
surplus workforce of the company, and a bridge loan of Rs 11.5 crore for
payment of interest liability to the State Bank of India.

All hopes are pinned on the vast land bank BIC is sitting on in Kanpur and
Dhariwal. The government wants to sell the surplus land to raise funds to
be pumped back into the sick unit.

However, land can't be sold straightaway because it had been leased out
by the Uttar Pradesh government to the company.
Sickness is synonymous with government owned textiles mills in the
country.

Apart from British India Corporation's Lal Imli, which manages to barely

51 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
keep up five per cent production, the eight other textile mills have all
closed. The closure of the mills rendered tens of thousands unemployed
and contributed to the rising crime rate.

What could have been-?


We should not have continued to strike after independence, we did it to
the British but we should have not continued that after independence, the
better option would have been, we should have worked extra and asked
for our desired benefits, it happens in the foreign countries but here it did
not happen like this.
This policy of strike by the unions hurt the mill worst. When government
had decided that it will pay sitting wages, workers should have protested.
They thought that they will receive payments without any work and lost
their jobs instead.

52 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s
REFERENCES

o Data from internal sources of the company


o Google
o www.lal-imli.com
o Wikipedia

THANK YOU

53 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

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