portfolio

organised chaos

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 content

expose 9
concept 17
experiments 20
design concept 35
process 36
sketches 44
technical drawings 54
photoshoot 66

Vivien Jacqueline Adrian

ESMOD Berlin Internationale Kunsthochschule fr Mode

Projekt: FAILED IT!

Semester: 3. Semester, WS 16/ 17

Lecturer : Prof. Jana Patz , Stephanie Biedermann

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 expose
To what extent do structure and order define Chaos?

Is there a conclusive system to chaos or is everything unpredictable? Expect the unexpected. The Chaos Theory explores nonlinear

complex systems, that tend to be impossible to foresee or control. Made up of different principles such as; the butterfly effect, unpredictability,

order, mixing, feedback and fractal mathematics. Allowing the study of the complexity of nature. Humans are surrounded by chaos on a daily

basis, but does this chaos have a structure or an order?

Before considering the influence of fractal mathematics to define an order in chaos, it is important to understand how it works. A

fractal is an infinite complex pattern created through the equation f(x) = z2 + c1 using this equation an output of an endless repetition2

and self-similarity3 can be seen. Fractals are a form of natural selection and can be found in our lungs, kidneys, and blood vessels.

Understanding the structure and order of fractals allows scientists to further their research. For example, blood vessels are made up of fractals

and with this adeptness doctors have developed their tumour research. Knowing that blood travels through a nice tree-like structure for a

healthy person but if the tree-like structure is uneven, a tumour could be present. It can be seen from the above analysis that, fractals do

follow an exact order and structure which allows mathematicians and scientists to understand and learn more about chaos while finding

order in disorder.4 Nature is full of fractals; trees, rivers, coastlines, and while to the naked eye it may look like chaos there is a framework that

is followed to create this dynamic system of complex patterns.

Another significant factor in chaos are symmetrical elements that can be defined with mathematics, art and nature. In addition

to fractal mathematics following an equation that creates an elaborate chaotic pattern, symmetry in chaos mimics the idea as the result

continuously becomes more intricate the more iterations there are. On one hand chaos is regarded as being characterised by unpredictability

and complexity.5 However, with reference to symmetry in chaos, the chaos follows a method with order that repeated millions of times will

create images of chaotic dynamics.6 Evidently, through the studies of symmetry in chaos there is a distinct conclusion that there is no one

line of symmetry, allowing for the mathematical creation of chaos. This rule can be found in natural selection as well, for instance in flowers,

as every type of flower follows its own distinct line of symmetry.

Undoubtedly, both symmetry in chaos and fractal mathematics show an extensive structure and order to the chaos that is presented

in the final outcome. In the same way that both these elements follow an equation or rule that repeats on itself, generating complex systems

1 Hunting the Hidden Dimensions. WGBH Educational Foundation and The Catticus Corporation, 2011. DVD.
2 Hunting the Hidden Dimensions. WGBH Educational Foundation and The Catticus Corporation, 2011. DVD.
3 Hunting the Hidden Dimensions. WGBH Educational Foundation and The Catticus Corporation, 2011. DVD.
4 Hunting the Hidden Dimensions. WGBH Educational Foundation and The Catticus Corporation, 2011. DVD.
5 Field, Michael J., and Martin Golubitsky. Symmetry in Chaos: A Search for Pattern in Mathematics, Art and Nature. (Philadel-
phia: SIAM, 2009.) 10.
6 Field, Michael J., and Martin Golubitsky. Symmetry in Chaos: A Search for Pattern in Mathematics, Art and Nature. (Philadel-
phia: SIAM, 2009.) 13.

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 which look disorganized. However, knowing the rules behind these chaotic results from fractals and symmetry allows for an understanding of Each of these theoretical elements make an important contribution to our understanding of the chaos theory, usually described

the order and structure. In addition to structure and order defining both fractals and symmetry, it can also be interpreted in the order in chaos. as patterned and chaotic behaviour.13 Throughout, this study it can be found that there is a consistent bond between chaos and order,

Focusing on natural selection, chaos can be found in all living creatures. Every living organism follows their own base structure especially highlighted in fractal mathematics, that is based on simple rules with feedback produces chaos and order.14 Defining that while

but are deformed in various ways to adapt to their surroundings, forms are interconvertible by changing the angles and the scale of the chaos is created through the feedback loop, there is an order and structure in which the chaos appears. It can easily be disputed through the

coordinates.7 Although, the chaos in these forms may not seem as extreme as in fractal mathematics there a continuing form of displacement principle of unpredictability, where the outcome will never be the one you predicted because of the variables that would have affected the

through order. To illustrate this, a tree leaf is optimally sorted for photosynthesis; the leaf like wings of a butterfly help to camouflage it in initial condition.

leaves,8 the form of chaos follows the idea of distortion to serve natural selection. Even though this form of chaos does not create a complex As shown in this essay, structure and order do define chaos through the fundamentals of fractal mathematics, symmetry and order in

system, it shows that a small change in coordinates or in the angle will have a drastic result on the final outcome. This can often be seen in chaos. However, these fundamentals of the chaos theory are unable present a complete definition as the other principles of the theory such as;

different types of fish, while to the human eye it may look like another form or type of fish. It is created through order in chaos. the butterfly effect and unpredictability, will continue to dispute the claim that there is a coherent structure and order in chaos.

Having considered the different elements that demonstrate there is a structure and order in chaos, which can be defined through In conclusion, structure and order have a definite role in defining chaos but only to a certain extent as the chaos theory is made up

different principles, it is important to consider the butterfly effect. This principle of the chaos theory contradicts that there is a systematic order of various principles that influence chaos in many different ways. As described earlier on, the chaos theory analyses nonlinear events that can

that can define chaos. The butterfly effect follows the concept that small changes to an initial condition can have a large effect on another be affected by different variables that one might not even consider and that no event has the components of a perfect experiment. From this
condition. This can be understood as the power to cause a hurricane in China to a butterfly flapping its wings in New Mexico,9 one can never analysis, it can be seen that there is no conclusive definition of chaos but that there are various elements that influence the outcome of the

quite grasp the long-term effects or predict them. Demonstrating the unpredictability in chaos as one is unable to foresee what the change in chaos that surrounds us on a daily basis and natural selection.

the initial condition may effect.

Following this point, another principle regarding the chaos theory is unpredictability itself. As there will never be a perfect initial

condition, one is never able to completely predict the outcome. There will always be various errors or variables that are not considered, for this

reason it is impossible to determine the outcome of every event. In this manner, there is chaos in the world that you can never know enough

to be able to predict it, let alone control it.10 For this reason, it is evident that there is no defined order in chaos except for knowing the

principles that make up the theory. From the analysis above, both about the butterfly effect and unpredictability, it can be explored that there

is a definite contradiction to the defined order in chaos from fractal mathematics, symmetry in chaos as well as order in chaos.

Consequently, there is a growing awareness of the fact that the world in which we live is unpredictable, chaotic,11 with regard to
this statement it is further emphasized that chaos will continuously have unpredictable impacts on the world.

Nevertheless, it is crucial to understand that there are elements of chaos that one is able to predict and use to further medical and

scientific research such as fractals. In addition to this, symmetry and order in chaos continue to draw attention to the idea that there are rules

which define chaos and proven by the various living organisms such as; flowers, leaves and fish. With a combination of the different principles

that form chaos it can be noted that chaos and pattern are built into natures most basic rules.12
7 Cramer, Friedrich. Chaos and Order: The Complex Structure of Living Systems. (Weinheim: VCH, 1993.) 4.
8 Cramer, Friedrich. Chaos and Order: The Complex Structure of Living Systems. (Weinheim: VCH, 1993.) 3.
9 What Is Chaos Theory? Fractal Foundation. The Fractal Foundation, n.d. Web. 12 Nov. 2016.
10 High Anxieties: The Mathematics of Chaos. BBC, 14 Oct. 2008. Web. Oct. 2016.
11 High Anxieties: The Mathematics of Chaos. BBC, 14 Oct. 2008. Web. Oct. 2016. 13 The Secret Life of Chaos. BBC, 14 Jan. 2010. Web. Oct. 2016.
12 The Secret Life of Chaos. BBC, 14 Jan. 2010. Web. Oct. 2016. 14 The Secret Life of Chaos. BBC, 14 Jan. 2010. Web. Oct. 2016.

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 Works Cited

Cramer, Friedrich. Chaos and Order: The Complex Structure of Living Systems. Weinheim: VCH, 1993. Print.

Field, Michael J., and Martin Golubitsky. Symmetry in Chaos: A Search for Pattern in Mathematics, Art and Nature. Philadelphia: SIAM, 2009.

Print.vHigh Anxieties: The Mathematics of Chaos. Dir. David Malone and Mark Tanner. Perf. James Lovelock and David Malone. High

Anxieties: The Mathematics of Chaos. BBC, 14 Oct. 2008. Web. Oct. 2016.

Hunting the Hidden Dimensions. Prod. Michael Schwarz and Bill Jersey. Perf. Ralph Abraham, Jhane Barnes and Loren Carpenter. WGBH

Educational Foundation and The Catticus Corporation, 2011. DVD.

The Secret Life of Chaos. Dir. Nic Stacey. Perf. Jim Al-Khalili. The Secret Life of Chaos. BBC, 14 Jan. 2010. Web. Oct. 2016.

What Is Chaos Theory? Fractal Foundation. The Fractal Foundation, n.d. Web. 12 Nov. 2016.

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 concept
Chaos. Usually viewed as a mistake. Something that went wrong or something disorganised. At times it can be foreseen but most of

the time its unpredictable.

What effect does chaos have in our live, do we perceive items differently when they are made up of a complex system.

The chaos theory is composed of various principles. The three main principles are; the butterfly effect, how small changes in initial

conditions can have drastic effects in the long haul; unpredictability, slight errors or unknown conditions can lead to substantial changes in

results; and fractal mathematics, the idea of a never ending pattern which is created by repeating a simple process forming a complex system.

The chaos theory allows one to make the invisible visible.

As the chaos theory follows an equation from fractal mathematics, the equation feeds on itself leading to a continuously cycle of

repetition. This results in self similarity and infinite complexity. Repetition can also be found in the symmetry in chaos; where images, lines,

or dots are repeated and reflected over different axis, numerous times. Resulting in the same conclusion as that of fractal mathematics, where

something simple becomes a complex chaotic structure. An interesting aspect of the theory is the order found in natural selection. Every group

of living organisms follows the same shape or form but with varied coordinates, changing the shape and functionality.

Following these points, chaos is usually built on the principles of form, symmetry, repetition, and reflection. While appearing

disorganised and chaotic, there is a structure creating the chaos.

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 What effect does reflection and repetition have on chaos? experiments

Creating chaos through an ordered system of reflecting and repeating images, these complex systems are visualized by

reiterating the initial image. Throughout this process the symmetry in chaos can also be seen, as all iterations are reflected over

different axis. The chaotic dynamic produces repeatable and observable patterns by following the arithmetic rule.

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 How can one translate the order in chaos into garments?

Creating transformations in both garments and patterns through the ideology of changing coordinates

and angles, the forms will start to differ but the basic pattern will always be evident. Even though the images start

to look disorganized and slightly chaotic, there is a systematic order behind these changes.

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 Continuing the translation of the deformed patterns through the change in coordinates and angles,

while also taking into consideration the symmetry in chaos and fractals where the patterns starts to feed on itself

and start to evolve throughout this process. As seen in the images on these pages and the following, the patterns

were deformed using a controlled system that resulted in three evolving patterns. While the patterns on paper look

drastically different, not much of this chaos can be seen in the final outcome.

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 How can one translate symmetry, order, repetition and reflection in chaos into silhouettes?

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 How can one translate symmetry, order, repetition and reflection in chaos into silhouettes?

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 design concept
What happens to garments when the chaos theory is applied? Through the process of abstracting a classical garment by; pulling,

tugging, reflecting, and repeating. The garment becomes a more complex and intriguing piece. There is a new depth to the silhouette through

the repetition and reflection of detail. As the method is continued on throughout the silhouettes, there is continuous growth in complexity and

detail of the garments. Following the ideology of the chaos theory, where the formula feeds on itself, so do the garments and form a complex

system.

Forming a fluidity in the garments through the morphing of the repetitions in the various layers. Visualising the idea of dissolving

the pieces into one another creating more chaos through the creation of a dynamic structure.

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 process
Can an organised system or method create an unpredictable/chaotic result?

- What happens if you distort something so much from the original image, does our brain still grasp the initial input?

- Can the person still see the process or do they just see a final image?

Does something have to be distorted completely to be seen as something chaotic?

- The abstraction does not have to be excessive to create something intriguing

- What effect does it have on the garment, if there is a focus on certain elements/details and exploring the different

possibilities

- Emphasis through fabric choice and layering

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 How does the change in angles of the stripes

effect the complexity of the garment?

The stripes are shifted by an angle of 10 degrees,

even though the shift is not that large with the continuous

shifting of stripes through the layers, and added depth is

brought to the garments. The complexity of the depth that

is created through the stripes add to the chaotic system of

the garments.

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 line up sketches

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 line up sketches

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 line up sketches

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 line up sketches

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 technical drawing outfit one

Cotton blend suit shirt with American button placket and finished with rooftop

vents accompanied by a straight cuff which is also represented in the hem.

Virgin wool knee length coat tailored with a notched lapel and

fully lined with silk satin. Seam manipulation visualising a second

lapel and collar.

Virgin wool, three/quarter length, wide legged trousers with an exaggerated

overlapping pleat in the front. Tailored with slant and pipe pockets.

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 technical drawing outfit two

Cotton blend suit shirt with American button placket and finished with rooftop

vents accompanied by a slight curve in the cuff which is also represented in the

hem.

Virgin wool knee length coat tailored with a notched lapel and

fully lined with silk satin. Added layers with a second lapel that

carries on to the hem of the coat. Layered illusion of a second coat

with emphasis on curved hem lines.

Virgin wool, three/quarter length, wide legged trousers with an exaggerated

overlapping pleat in the front. Added depth to the trousers through second layer

on pleat, extending the hem curve. Tailored with slant and pipe pockets.

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 technical drawing outfit three

Cotton blend suit shirt with American button placket and finished with rooftop

vents accompanied by a dramatic curve in the cuff which is also represented in

the hem.

Virgin wool knee length coat tailored with a notched lapel and fully

lined with silk satin. Added layers with a second lapel that carries on to

the hem of the coat, with a third lapel growing out of this seam. Lay-

ered illusion of a second coat with emphasis on curved hem lines, build

on by a section of a third coat, increasing the layers and depth.

Virgin wool, three/quarter length, wide legged trousers with an exaggerated

overlapping pleat in the front. Added depth to the trousers through second layer

on pleat and on the underlying layer, extending the hem curve. Tailored with

slant and pipe pockets.

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 organised chaos

photographer Elena Breuer

photographer assistant Nicole Doberstein
hair and make up Sabina Pinsone
model Sebastian Godde

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Vivien Adrian

mobile +49 176 8070 2713 (Germany)

+852 9260 4281 (Hong Kong)
email vivienadrian95@gmail.com
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