Apparel Merchandising

Apparel Merchandising
How to improve organization skills?

Garment Cost Sheet
How to estimate garment CM cost?
What are the main activities of an export house merchant?
How to review or study a reference garment sample?
Sampling stages in apparel manufacturing
The structure of the Apparel Industry
Preproduction inspection stages followed by buying houses
Top ten tips for being a customer focused merchandiser
Costing and Negotiation Skills for Merchandisers
Cost Breakdown of a Men's Woven Cotton Shirt sold in USA market
Why not to request your buyer, they may like the available option?
Woven Fabric consumption formula ?
How to calculate fabric consumption for knits garment?
How to calculate thread consumption?
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How to improve organization skills?
Organizational Skills
In our daily life, it seems time is too short to complete the given tasks. It does not matter what
position you are holding in the organization, if you are not organized at end of the day you will
find lot of tasks uncompleted. It is only you, who can change your current situation. You can
have better control of work, better productivity; you can do more and improve the quality of
your life. What is required is you have to sharp up your organization skills.
In simple, organization skills are about organizing a list of tasks, organizing the various
activity of the day in an effective way. These skills are involved prioritizing of tasks,
scheduling and executing. They constitute techniques to execute routine task in a better way.
More importantly they serve to reduce stress and improve focus. The skills are essential in
every walk of life. They help you to decide what to do, when to do and how to do. This
includes small choices like when to sleep and when to wake up, to major decision like the time
for a career shift.
Mastering in three skills:

Prioritizing: It is one of the most important elements of organizational skills. As you will have to do several
tasks in a day, list down all tasks and prioritize them according to the importance, volume and urgency of the
task. You have to prioritize the task so that you can give up less important tasks and allot the time and
resources for the important tasks. Prioritizing give you control on the workflow. It makes it easy to identify
mistakes, correct them, and alter the execution strategy if necessary, while keeping the damages to
minimum.
Scheduling: The next element of organizational skills scheduling, is about deciding on how you perform the
different tasks on your list. It helps you to figure out when to do what. You learn to distinguish between the
urgent and the important. It covers areas from preparing an action plan to facilitating its implementation. For
instance to be able finish a task on time, you may have first organize your desk and electronic data!
Execution: Once you are ready with an action plan, it is time to execution stage. At the execution stage,
organization skills are about management and ways to deal with adverse conditions. As you gain expertise at
them, you become more productive and successful.
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What is required?
It is natural for the individual to resist being organized. This demands commitment, persistence and
discipline. Here is how you can sharpen your organizational skills:
A common mistake you commit at this stage is focusing on the top (important) tasks on your mind. However
when you start implementing your action plan, you realized that you have missed out allotting time to
routine unavoidable task. Sometime even though you remember them, you ignore thinking that you can deal
with them during some free time through the day. Bu this is not practicable. Eventually your action plan
fails. So, when planning the schedule enter all the tasks into the list and then prioritize. Calculate the time
required for each task. Anticipate potential obstacle and keep ready a second plan. Pad some free time in
between tasks to cover slip in schedule.
Preserve your Time:

Do not procrastinate and waste your time. Resist getting complacent in the midway. Take expert advice to
learn to do a job in the most efficient way. Avoid keeping backlogs so that you can start the next day with
afresh mind.
Maintain a log to keep track of time spent on different activities. This can help you with figuring out the task
that are consuming more time than they are worth. With this information you can decide whether to pursue
the task in future or not. And if you should, you can explore more effective way of doing it.
Organizational skills are priceless skills that highlight the importance of time and help to use it effectively.
So, whether you want to be a successful professional, manager or entrepreneur, hone them to accelerate your
success.
A cost sheet makes the job of garment sample costing easier and faster. If you use a cost sheet there is a
less chance to miss any particular costing heads when you are in hurry. Many times it is needed to know how
we reach to the final FOB. A well designed cost sheet will help you trace all details of costing. Cost sheet
will also gives cost break up for future reference.
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Following one is a sample cost sheet. This sheet is filled with indicative numbers.
COST SHEET
Product Women T-Shirt Yarn dyed feeder stripes
Style no: XYZ Country USA
Viscose
Buyer: ABC Fabric jersey
GSM/width 150/34-31"
Amount
Particulars Details (INR)
Fabric Costing
Yarn Price as per supplier
list Per Kg 250.00
Knitting charges Per Kg 25.00
Greige Fabric Cost Per Kg 275.00
Average dyeing cost 20.00
Weight loss on dyed fabric: 9.00% 26.55
Fleece brushing /Peaching - -
Loss Due To Printing - -
Sub total 321.55
Interest on yarn
prices:/margin 10.00% 32.16
Dyed Fabric Cost: 353.71
Garment costing
Avg. Fabric Consumption
(gram) 210.00 74.28
CMTP Charges
Stitching: 20.00
Cutting: 2.50
Finishing: 6.00
Packaging: 4.50
Embellishment 2.50
Trims 4.00 39.50
Sub Total 113.78

Overhead cost 12.00% 13.65
Margin (after overhead) 20.00% 25.49
Ratio/Rejection 4.00% 5.10
Charges for On Board 1.00
Total price of a apparel 159.02
Fob prices: US$ Rate: 49.00 $ 3.25
Internal Price FOB $ 3.25
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Further details of Packing, Trims and Embellishment costing have been shown in the following table. The
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following checklist indicative one, you can add more on particulars according to your style requirement.
Trims
Particulars Consumption Rate Amount (INR)
M/label 1 1.00
W/care 1 0.50
Tag N/a 0.00
Thread 10 meter 2.00
Fusing N/a 0.00
Twill tape N/a 0.00
Mobilon tape 30 cm 0.50
Zipper N/a 0.00
Patch label N/a 0.00
Button N/a 0.00
Total 4.00
Packing materials
Tissue N/a 0.00
Board N/a 0.00
Hanger N/a 0.00
H/tag 1 1.50
Poly bag 1 1.50
Blister N/1 0.00
Carton 1/10 1.50
Other 0.00
Label logo 0.00
Total 4.50
Embellishment
Embroidery/appliqu N/a 0.00
Printing N/a 0.00
Rhin stud N/a 0.00
Lace N/a 0.00

Rib N/a 0.00
Collar N/a 0.00
Crochet lace N/a 0.00
Enzyme wash N/a 0.00

Dori 2.50
Total 2.50 5
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How to estimate garment CM cost?
In the clothing manufacturing, supplier gives final manufacturing cost to buyer

prior to order confirmation. For that factory prepares cost sheet estimating costs in
different cost heads. Cost heads like Fabric, Trims and Packing materials, Labor cost
and Overheads.
At costing stage, suppliers only get one sample of the garment and specification of
fabric and trims for the reference. For raw material cost suppliers directly take price
quote from fabric and trim suppliers. For labor cost it is very important to estimate
as near as it will be during actual production.
The scientific method for estimating CM (Cut and make) cost of a garment involve
two steps as
1. First determine SAM of the garment (refer garment SAM calculation) and
2. Then multiply garment SAM with labor cost per minute.
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How to calculate the minute cost of the operator?
Formula:
Minute Cost = (Monthly salary of the operators/Total minutes available in the
month)
Suppose,
Operator monthly salary is INR 5000.00
Total available capacity per month (in minute) = 26 working days*8
hours/day*60=12,480 minutes
So, per minute cost of the direct labor = 5000/12480 = 0.4006 INR
Formula for labor cost calculation per pieces

CM cost = SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labor
If Sewing SAM is 15 minutes then estimated garment make cost = 15*0.40=6

INR
And Cutting SAM is 2 minutes then estimated cutting cost = 2*0.40=0.8 INR
So, Total estimated CM cost of the garment = (6.00+0.80) = 6.8 INR

Following above formula easily one can estimate garment CM cost and use it for
the product costing
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What are the main activities of an export house
merchant?
1. Communication with buyers in terms of sample
development, approvals, order confirmation
2. Communication with internal departments and forwarding
required information to the respective departments
3. Procure order & Order confirmation
4. Product development, sample development and sample
approval
5. Development of bit loom, print strike off, embroidery strike
off etc
6. Style Costing
7. Calculating consumption of raw materials (Bill of material)
8. Price Quoting
9. Lab dip & Approval
10. Sourcing and purchasing of raw materials,
11. Approval of fabric, Trims and Accessories
12. Fabric Testing and garment testing done from testing labs
13. Factory Scheduling / Planning
14. Order Follow up: all steps of production & Quality
15. Follow up vendors for subcontracting jobs like printing,
hand embroidery and washing
16. Ensure on Time Delivery
17. Liaison with the customer during Design, Sourcing,
Production & Shipping
18. Conduct pre-production (PP) meeting with other
departments, handover production file and samples to the
production team.
19. Attend buyers meeting
20. Ensure Customer Satisfaction
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How to Review or Study Reference Garment
Sample?
In the garment export orders, most of the time buyer send reference sample to
the supplier with technical specifications and note on critical points. It is to help
suppler for preparing correct material requirement, understanding buyer quality
requirement and to make proper production planning.
Many times it has been observed that merchants or production people are in
hurry and forget to review the sample properly. As a result they face lot of
problems in sampling stage, production processes and meeting quality
requirement. To get right first time in raw material planning, garment construction,
style detailing, it is very important that supplier must do study of the sample prior
to start order processing. If sample is reviewed with detailed checklist, sample
rejection can be reduced in approval stage. Garment costing and production
preparation can be done more accurately.
Once sample is approved by buyer, before the start of production, sample must
be reviewed by industrial engineer, quality team and production team to avoid
silly mistakes. Following check list will be helpful in doing proper review of the
sample.
Check fabric details, accessories, styling and garment construction.
Check garment detailing for process requirements, like printing or

embroidery is needed or not. If needed is it before stitching or after stitching.
Think about cutting whether block cutting is needed or not.
Go through the specs sheets and compare/match it with the sample for
possible query on points of measurement. Note that buyers way of measuring
certain specs varies and you should be aware of their established standards.
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Wash care instruction
Identify and list down garment components or parts
List down main material, trims and accessories used
Specification of sewing threads (thickness and variation).
Turn down the garment and identify operation sequences, note if few
operation can be started simultaneously.
In operation sequence also note seam types, stitch classes and

accordingly think about machine type guides or attachments that would suitable
for the operation.
Note down operations that looks difficult in sewing and may need attention
for quality stitching.
Review the sewing allowances required or may be required by the various

sewing methods.
Identify finishing processes and note with specification.
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Sampling Stages in Apparel Manufacturing
Broadly garment samples are categorized as development samples and production samples. Samples that
is made in development stage are as following -
1. Proto Sample
2. FIT sample
3. Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample
4. Size set Sample
5. Pre-production Sample
In production stage factory need to submit few more samples that
includes
1. Top of Production Sample
2. Shipment Sample
Source: hellotrade.com
1. Proto Sample: these samples are proto type of new design created by designers. This is the first sample
in product development stage. Proto sample is made to communicate the design of a style or a line or to
present garment structure. In proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered.
2. FIT Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual measurement. Modification
on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. FIT is one of the most important factor to be
considered during sample development. FIT sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify
garment fit and fall.
3. Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesman
sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's feedback and according to customers response buyers
forecast demand of an particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and
accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer.
4. Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage
factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, and
XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.
5. Pre-production Sample: All the above samples are made in sampling department. Buyer wants pre-
production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what they are
going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line
tailors. PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) before
proceeding actual production.
6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the
middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not ask for
TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.
7. Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and packed
pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants
and buyer's merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer
do not get garment out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future reference.
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The structure of the Apparel Industry
The apparel industry supply chain starts from the farming of cotton in the cotton fields, manufacturing of
man-made fibers to selling clothes in retail store to the consumers. Broadly the skeleton of the apparel
supply chain consist of the following.
Level 1: Textiles & finding manufacturers (Mill Level)

Level 2: Apparel manufacturers, contractors, retail product development (Apparel Manufacturing Level)
Level 3: Manufacturer-owned retailers, outlets, catalog retailers, warehouse
Level 4: Consumers
Level 1: Mill Level - Textiles & finding manufacturers: Fabrics, zippers, threads, trims, and buttons.
A few apparel manufacturers are vertically integrated with textile production. some apparel manufactures
buy from vendors open stocks.
Level 2: Apparel manufacturing level

Apparel manufacturers: Marketing, merchandising, and production. Apparel production is categorized in
two types.
1) Perform manufacturing within own facilities and employees.

2) Contact some or all of the manufacturing functions to other firms. Contracting even categorized in 3
sub category. These are like -
i) Cut-make-trim (CMT) contactors: supply operators, machines, and thread and make garments.
ii) Full package program (FPP): source materials and develop patterns as well as make garments.
Greater financial responsibility. FPP might higher CMT contractors.
iii) Specialty contractors: provide services such as pattern grading, cutting, embroidering, belt making,
fabric pleating, or screen printing.
Level 3: Retail level

Retailing means selling clothing to the consumer. Apparel manufacturers may be forward vertically
integrated into the retail sector through owning their own stores.
Retailing format: there is seven different format of garment retailing as following,
Catalog retailers (Examples: Land's End, L.L. Beans).

Department store retailers (Examples: Dillards, Macys).
Internet retailers
Mass retailers: offer consumer goods in a discount with self service environment (Examples: Wal-
mart, Target, and J.C. Penney).
Specialty retailers: offer a large selection of a limited line of consumer goods with narrow target
customers (Examples: Victorias Secret, Nordstrom).
Ware house/wholesale clubs (Examples: Costco, Sams Club, BJs).
Retailer outlets: clearance centers of the previous seasons and years.
Retailers use multiple channels of distribution and channel integration.
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Example: Department store + Web sites+ Catalog distribution.

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Preproduction Inspection Stages Followed by Buying House
In the apparel export business a buying house works as middleman who collects orders from overseas
buyers and places those orders to export houses for manufacturing. To supply quality products to the
buyer consistently, buying house develops an internal quality and technical team. To assure about the
garment quality buying houses follow standard operating procedures. Here I have explained the quality
checking procedures in each stage of manufacturing processes from fabric development to shipment. Most
of the buying houses do inspection as following stages.
Fabric development stage: In the fabric

development stage fabric Lap dips are checked
and approved by quality personnel for dyed
fabrics. For yarn dyed fabric quality team check
bit looms for fabric design and yarn colors.
Strike offs are checked for print artwork, print
colors and embroidery works in the garment.
Then fabric quality is checked by quality
checkers for looks, hand feel. Like fabrics,
when trims are being developed by vendors
similar inspection and approval procedures are
followed.
Bulk fabric inspection: As soon as supplier (export houses) sourced bulk fabric, quality team gets informed
by factory merchant or their internal merchants. For the bulk fabric quality assurance personnel basically
checks fabric color whether it is matching with the approved sample or not. Secondly they check fabric
hand feel as per requirement. They also check fabric lots (in case there are multiple lots) for shade
variation. If they found shade variation, quality personnel inform the same to concern merchant in the
buying house. Merchants give approval for some of those lots. Merchants reject lots those are out of shade
and they write to supplier for not to use rejected lots. In the mean time supplier sent fabric sample to
testing labs for FPT or for specific tests. Until buying house merchant gives approval on bulk fabric, factory
will not proceed with bulk cutting.
Sampling Stages: Though merchants take care of sampling part, in most of the buying houses they prefer -
sample should be checked by technical or quality team before sending it to buyer. For FIT sample they
especially check and measure garment measurement according to the fit requirement. It is better to check
garment fit on dress form. For pre-production sample, quality team checks for all actual trims and
accessories. Also check whether fit comments are incorporated to the pre-production sample or not. For
size set samples, suppliers are asked to make one or two pieces in each size. (Size ranges as per order
sheet). Once size set is approved by quality team, factory get go ahead for bulk cutting.
Cutting Stages: In this stage quality team checks for patterns or cut component to ensure size set
comments on measures is corrected before bulk cutting.
Production Stages: Once bulk production is online, quality team do initial and mid-line inspection. Then
buying house asked for TOP (Top of Production) sample, which represents final packed pieces that includes
hang tags, garment folding, poly bag size and quality.
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Customer Focused Merchandising (CFM) Top Ten Tips for being a CFM
Merchandiser
In todays extremely competitive apparel industry, CFM customer focused merchandising is the single
most important factor that can differentiate you from others in the field, whichever side you may be on, be
it retailing or sourcing as in buying offices or in manufacturing. We cannot afford to be satisfied with just
being nice to customer anymore. We must aim to offer them an unforgettable experience. This requires
not just training, skills and knowledge, but creating an environment where people take pride in serving
others. Buyers/Customers are not just buying the product or service from you, they purchase how they
feel doing business with you. Its the memory they retain of how it was to work with you...and thats what
keeps them coming back to you again.
1. Be the Expert.
You must know your job thoroughly so that your customer can trust you. An understanding about fabrics,
fit/pattern issues, costing, lead times, etc is a must have for a CFM merchant. For example, if you get a
request from the buyer for making a certain complex garment at a very sharp price, you as a CFM merchant
should be able to act as a consultant to the buyer by giving them options of what modifications can be
made to make the garment fit in the target price, as well as warn them of any potential lead time or
production feasibility issues to allow the customer to make an informed decision right at the outset
of development stage.
2. Professionalism counts.
Professionalism in every job that they do is what makes a CFM merchant shine above the rest. Its a
reflection of who you are as a person and as a professional. Whether its a swatch card you make or
whether its a lab dip submit you prepare or whether its a cost sheet you send to buyer, in every job that
you do, you can make a tremendous difference to the experience the customer will go through, just by
being a thorough professional. I have witnessed a million frustrating moments which buyers face, when a
job is not professionally done. Trying to figure out a badly hand written tag, scratched /rewritten
information on swatch cards, incomplete information on submit cards etc are just a few examples. A
professionally done job is what makes the customer go wow!
3. Make it easy for the customer.

CFM merchants will ensure to make life easy for customer. Simple. Let me give you some examples. If you
are offering different fabric options to the customer, as a CFM, you will make sure to include complete
fabric details in terms of count, construction, weight, width, lead-time, price etc...And you will even go a
step further to give an estimated garment fob for each fabric option being offered. There! , you made life
easy for buyer, by anticipating and proactively addressing all their needs, without being asked to! Wow! I
am reminded of a situation I came across in my life as a merchant. A particular submit was rejected for
quality by buyer with almost panic sounding remarks, when it was intended for color approval! Now if you
were a CFM merchant, the situation would never have arisen, because you would have simply made sure
to write complete details on the submit including the purpose ONLY FOR COLOR APPROVAL, NOT FOR
QUALITY.
4. Speed to customer.
CFM merchants realize the importance of the need to respond quickly to the needs of the customers,
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especially critical in the fast paced dynamic world of fashion and apparel. You have to be able to get back
with your price quotes, sample turnarounds, approval submits and the like within the limited time
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available. In fact, the best is to be chasing the buyers instead of being chased by them.
5.Manage their deadlines.
A CFM merchant will go one step further in not only keeping track of deadlines for various activities that
they need to do, but also act as a consultant and advise the buyer of the deadlines that the buyers need to
keep for activities owned by them to ensure on time delivery of goods. For example if your order involves
an accessory which the buyer is going to develop directly with the trim supplier, as a CFM merchant, you
will remind the buyer of the timelines they have for developing this trim and the latest by which they
should approve the accessory with the trim supplier, so you get it in time for the order.
6. Communication! Communication! Communication!
One cannot stress enough about the essential communication skills which are a must have for CFM
merchandisers. You have to be comprehensive, precise and crystal clear in your communication with the
customer. Since majority of business communication happens via email today, some of the crucial things to
remember while composing emails are
Write self explanatory subject line
Use simple active sentences, instead of jalebi paragraphs
Write in points
Answer all questions and then anticipate any further questions that might come up and answer
those as well at one go.
Make specific date commitments, instead of asap, next week kind of open ended commitments,
and of course you keep them as well.
Consolidate all issues in one email instead of doing back and forth via several emails
Avoid using urgent and important for every email you write and use it sparingly for it to have
any meaning.
Be careful whom you put in to box and who in cc box instead of doing a blind reply all
When angry with a customer, by all means express it in email with all your might to get it out of
your system, BUT DO NOT SEND IT, instead keep it in your drafts folder. Redraft it an hour later with a cool
and rational mind.
Do not write in bold fonts. Its simply rude and loud.
Do not go overboard with inserts in your email with multiple colors! Stick to the two insert rule
and then draft a new email to avoid confusion.
Think before you press the send button! Because once thats done, you have no control over
where your written email might land up. So be careful.
Other than written communication skills, oral and non verbal communication is another important skill to
develop. You cannot go wrong with a thank you and an apology so use these magic words as often as
you can. Understand the subtle nuances of body language and the tone of voice while communicating.
Sometimes, its not what you say, but how you say it that matters.
A good thing to know with customers is you cannot win an argument with them. Do not even attempt it.
Instead approach the issues with an agreement frame of mind and look for win-win resolutions. Put your
point across, but before that make the customer know that you have understood their point of view. A
simple trick like, replacing the use of but with an and in your sentences can do the magic in terms of how
you can resolve conflicts faster. Try it.
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7. Do not forget the internal customers.
My dad taught me this early in life- clever is one who gets his work done. A CFM merchant will apply all
the skills that he uses with the external customer on the all important internal customers as well. These
are the people within your own organization across the departments, your own vendors etc. Building
rapport and good relationship with people around you, helps in getting your work done faster. In the cross
functional environment, you cannot survive without this skill. Appreciate good work done by others in
public, and criticize in private. Be clear in communicating your expectations and above all be transparent
and honest in your dealings.
8. Cosmic force of Habit.

Habit is a powerful force to break. A CFM merchant knows to use this force. By the sheer delight that they
are to work with, they soon get their customers habituated to working with them. Once the customer is
spoilt by your high level of service, it will be difficult for them to break that habit and switch to another
supplier.
9. Build trust based relationships.

Anybody wants to do business with a person or organization they can trust. You must develop trust based
relationships and win your buyers confidence. Reliability in keeping your commitments goes a long way in
building your credibility. Sharing information in a transparent manner builds trust. Once you create a
reputation for yourself, it goes along with you wherever you might be. People might change organizations
and move on in life, but they will remember the credibility and trust you built with them in your past
dealings.
10. Take pride in making a difference.
Nothing is more satisfying to a CFM merchant than a happy customer. They take pride in making a
difference to other peoples lives. Go ahead and make the day of your customers by doing that extra bit in
everything you do. They will love you more and you will love yourself more too!
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Costing and Negotiation Skills for Merchandisers
Its that time of the year again. The beginning of a new season, proto sampling deadlines, endless
coordination with fabric suppliers and garment vendors to stick to the dates to make sure the samples
reach in time for the oh so important meeting, and above all costing, costing costing. If you are a
merchandiser in the apparel arena, you can relate to the above.
A period of crazily hectic activity, and pressures mounting from all sides...buyers, suppliers, bosses...But
there is some excitement in all this mayhem. The thrill of working on new styles, designs, fabrics... the
excitement and anticipation of booking new orders... the fun in negotiation and haggling for best
prices...Ask any merchant on what they like most about their jobs. And they will tell you its these aspects
which give them an adrenalin rush in their jobs... Otherwise life would be pretty mundane...
Given the crazy workload that hits a merchant at this time, it is little wonder that some details, often with
important implications, get overlooked. If you had more than 100-150 cost sheets to populate, prepare and
quote prices on, being a suppliers merchant... to err in some costings would be human indeed. But wait a
minute... lets just understand the implications before brushing it aside as a simple as that scenario. I came
across a cost sheet in my career as a merchant, where instead of typing $ 0.59 for a certain leather patch in
the garment, the supplier merchant had typed $ 0.059. Price was sealed and order was confirmed for
25,000 pieces for a pant. Its only later that I noticed this error. Now imagine the amount of money left on
the table ... $ 13,275! Wow, I could do the Europe holiday that I often dream of in that kind of money!! Its
just criminal to me, irrespective of which side you are on, supplier or buyer, to leave that kind of money
lost in human errors, and there are countless such instances which remain unnoticed... lost forever.
The key to eliminate or at least reduce these kinds of errors during costings is to become a marwari. Now
that you have become a marwari, who is quoting price for your own business, every cent will count to you!
Now costing will take a totally different dimension, and there is no room for any errors... its your money at
stake!
Micro Detailing is crucial in preparing cost sheets. At times all the items are not listed on the bill of material
provided by the buyer, but you are going to need them eventually in making the garments. Examples are
packing trims, interlinings, buttons, threads etc. So its important to not only include the items on the BOM
of a tech pack, but also include all the items that will go on the garment.
Protect your cost sheet in every way. You dont want to base your final price on a fabric consumption only
to find out during production that you ended up ordering more fabric than was estimated at costing stage.
Its your money being lost.
Fabric is the biggest component of any garment costing. Make sure you take accurate yields based on ratio
markers, make sure you take formal commitments from fabric suppliers while taking price quotes,
regarding finished width of fabric, shrinkage, defect percentages etc. This is important because later on it
will be possible for you to hold them accountable to cover for your losses, in case the
fabric shrinkage exceeded the expectations and you ended up ordering extra fabric, or if more than
expected fabric got wasted due to defects etc. So often due to time constraints, merchants end up taking
fabric price quotes on phone, rather than through a proper professional quotation sheet from fabric
supplier. Now if you were a Marwari running your own business, you will not do that, and will take care to
have a proper record in place for all raw material prices, before quoting the final price for the garment to
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the buyers.
Knowing your competition is the secret for becoming an astute negotiator. All businessmen make it their
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business to know the competitors they are dealing with. This knowledge gives you that extra edge while
quoting the prices to the buyers. Are you competing with suppliers within your own geographical location,
or are there players from other parts of the globe vying for the same orders? What is your competitive
edge Vis a Vis competition and vice versa. Especially when speed to market is so crucial in a tough business
environment, buyers do not have much time to haggle back and forth and bring down the prices to
acceptable levels. You need to quote the right price in one shot, and you have to be accurate. If you over
quote, you run the risk of losing the business to another supplier, and if you under quote, you lose money.
An understanding of the buyer margins can help you to hit the buyer targets more accurately in one go.
More often than not, you may end up getting a higher price than you aimed for in the first place, and still
make customer happy by meeting their targeted margin goals. What level of market your customer
operates in e.g. luxury segment, middle segment or mass market? What profit margins do they need to
make to run profitable business at their end? This keen business sense is similar to astute shop keepers in
flea markets who quote the price by looking at the customer and estimating his ability to pay and purchase.
You would have seen many sari shop owners, who will willingly open and show as many sarees to a
customer whom they think will make the purchase and are reluctant to open even a few when they feel
the customer is not going to make the purchase. This simply comes from knowing the customers well. Last
but not the least; great negotiation power belongs to a person who can think win win. Armed with the
knowledge above and even after being as accurate and detailed as possible, if your price quote is still not
satisfactory enough from buyer target price, by all means make an alternate proposal to buyer. Give
options with suggestions to may be delete a trim or change the fabric source or whatever it may be... but
give alternative suggestions to meet and service the customer requirement in way which is win win for
both parties. Like Marlin Brando in Godfather when he says I will make him an offer he cant refuse.
Cost Breakdown of a Mens Woven Cotton Shirt sold in USA Market
Do you know the actual manufacturing cost of the cotton shirt you are wearing? What the other costs
added to the retail price? How much mark-up is added by retailers? The following cost breakdown chart
gives answers all of your questions.
Cost Heads Amount

($)
Fabric 3.00
CMT (Cut-Make-Trim) 2.00
Quota Category 1.80
FOB Price (for Complete garment) 6.80
Duty (19.8%) 1.34

Freight 0.30
Clearance and inland transport 0.14
LPD (Landed Duty Paid) 8.58
Private Label importer price Mark-up 3.68

Wholesale Price 12.26
Retail price mark-up 18.39

Retail Price 30.65
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Why not to request your buyer, they may like your option?
I am sharing my first experience of handling a small domestic
order. That time I just joined in a newly established export
house. So, it was also the first order for the company. Still I can
remember the name of my first customer. The order was
from Molife. They ordered for pink colored Polo shirt for their
brand promotion. Order was for only 50 pieces and pique fabric
to be used with flat knitted collar.
As usual, my first task was to find a supplier for the knits fabric and requesting for lap dip. MD sir of our
company gave me the contact details of a Ludhiana based supplier and instructed me that for this small
quantity we could source fabric from that supplier. I started processing and got lap dip with three options
of pink shades after three days. But no shades were matching with the sample given by the customer. I was
thinking to call supplier and ask for more lap dips because I did not want to send wrong lap dips to the
buyers.
I met MD sir to inform him that lap dips were not matching. So first thing, I am not sending to buyer for
approval. Secondly, I am going ask fabric supplier why they did not match lap dips with sample.
Yes, you are right. But why are you not sending one of this (best one) lap dip to buyer and tell them that
you have reordered for lap dips but if they like this shade (slightly varied from the sample) then you will go
ahead with ordering the fabric, MD sir told to me. The fact was that Polo shirts order was for their internal
use and slight tone variation does not matter at all.
I thought, lets try. When our MD sir was giving me this suggestion to do it then why not to try? It worked.
After a day I got approval of the lap dip. And go ahead with the bulk order. After a week, I shipped my first
order.
Learning: Why not to request buyer, they may like your option?
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MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES
Job List Of a Merchandiser
INQUIRIES:
1. On receiving an inquiry(s) the merchandiser must prepare a checklist and immediately forward all
information to 3 factories from the approved factory list for pricing.
2. The merchandiser must make sure that the factory specializes in the item being priced and has worked
with the client before.
2a. Selection of supplier should be based on their previous performance, efficiency, delivery, etc.
3. If it is a new client then the merchandiser must discuss the inquiry(s) with the dept. head before sending
out the inquiry(s).
3a. In case of a new factory, a factory evaluation should be conducted as per the set standards. Only
Synergies Sourcing approved factories can be used for pricing, sampling, etc.
QUOTING PRICES:
1. Prices must be sent within 1-2 days of receiving the inquiry.

2. All enquires must be entered in to the new development sheet.
3. Based on the lowest price the merchandiser must order proto sample. Min. 2 pieces must be ordered.
One sample for the customer and one office sample.
4. Before quoting any prices to the customer. The merchandiser should get all prices approved by the Head
of Merchandising or Managing Director.
5. If renegotiation is required then involve the dept. head, Head of Merchandising and Managing Director
so that the best prices are finalized with the factories.
6. Final quoted price must be updated on the new development sheet.
PROTO SAMPLES:
1. Upon receipt of buyers specification, a thorough check should be conducted for precision. Obtain
explanation from customer for anything considered vague.
2. Forward the specification sheets/Pattern to the selected supplier with all the explanation of
specifications & technicalities on as & when received basis & update records.
3. Ensure timely availability of fabric.
4. Follow-up with the supplier to provide the sample latest within 2 days for local accessories & fabrics,
in case of imported items maximum 12 days.
5. Upon receipt of the sample from the supplier thoroughly check the styling, measurement (if any),
stitching, quality of the fabric, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard, finishing of the sample &
accessories if any & ensure compliance of the samples as per customers specifications.
6. The departmental head will give final approval.
7. At least 3 pieces of each sample should be developed. One for merchandisers, one for the customer
& one for the suppliers for future references.
8. Prepare Proto Sample Checking Sheet & attach with the checklist (Format Attached).
9. Put duly filled sample card on the sample, format enclosed.
20
10. Forward the samples as & when received basis & advice customer accordingly with all the details of
dispatch.
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11. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments.

12. Once approved, advice supplier as well as Head of Quality Control.
13. Update Order Checklist, format enclosed.
14. Update the excel sheet accordingly, format enclosed.
ORDER PLACEMENT:
1. Once an order is placed the merchandise manager should fill out a PO checklist.
2. All missing information with regards to the PO will be forwarded to the customer within 1 day of
receiving the PO.
3. A complete PO package must be prepared and sent to the factory within 24 hours of receipt of order
from customer with a copy of P.O. to Commercial Department.
4. Prepare a projected production plan & forward the same to the Head of Quality Control & to the
related supplier. The schedule should comprise of expected dates for fabric Quality Check, ILC, IPC, MPC &
FRI.
5. Prepare a projected sample plan & forward the same to the related supplier with a copy to the Head
of department.
. PO PACKAGE FOR FACTORY:
A new PO package for the factory must include the following:
(i) Original PO sheet.

(ii) Spec. Sketch and workman sheet.
(iii) Color print artwork, lab dip, original fabric swatch and original trim card.
(iv) Original sample (If available)
6. Within 1 day of receipt of a new order the merchandise manager must call for a pre-production
internal meeting. The following people must attend this meeting:
(a) Head of Operation.
(b) Merchandise Manager.
(c) Acct. Related Merchandiser.
(d) Head of QA Dept.
(e) QA Personal.
(f) Internal QA Personal.
7. At the meeting the merchandiser will issue all information with regards to the order. This information
includes:
(v) PO sheet copy.
(vi) Spec sheet with all related information.
(vii) Lab dip card, print artwork, trims card, etc.
(viii) Original fabric swatch (If available)
(ix) Proto sample.
LAB DIP / PRINT STRIKE OFF:
1. Follow up with our customer for lab dips if necessary.

2. Upon receipt of the lab dips from the customer, immediately send a replica to the supplier.
3. Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of lab dips latest within 5 days.
4. Obtain maximum numbers of lab dips from the suppliers minimum 3 per color.
5. Upon receipt of lab dips from the supplier, match lab dips against customer specifications via visual
test or if required by the customer via lab test.
6. Receive Lab Dips Format Sheet from our Lab & attach with the checklist, format attached.
7. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers.
8. Forward the lab dips to the customer along with the lab test report on as & when received basis.
21
Make sure the buyer receives the lab dibs as per their requirement.
Page
10. On approval inform supplier.

SIZE SET SAMPLES:
1. Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of Size Set options with actual fabric, maximum 4 days
for local fabric & maximum 12 days for imported fabric.
2. Obtain 2 sets of samples of all sizes from the supplier. One for merchandisers & one for the
customer.
3. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against customer specifications & comments.
4. Thoroughly check the styling, measurement (if any), stitching, quality of the fabric, fabric
construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard, finishing of the sample & accessories if any.
5. Prepare size set format sheet & attach with the checklist, format attached.
7. Forward the size set options to the customers on as & when received basis.
8. Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their precise requirement.
9. Forward one or two pieces to the Head of Quality Control.
11. Upon receipt of approval advise supplier & Quality Control Head.
14. Obtain actual production schedule from the supplier. Make sure the schedule is in accordance with
the shipment date.
SAMPLE ACCESSORIES:
1. Follow up with the customer for sample accessories, if required.

2. Upon receipt of buyers accessories, a thorough check should be conducted for precision. Obtain
explanation from customer for anything considered vague.
3. Upon receipt of the accessories from the customer, forward the same to the supplier on as & when
received basis.
4. Factories will be responsible for the selection of accessories supplier. We should forward no such
recommendations to the factories.
5. Follow-up with the supplier and quality control for prompt delivery of accessories for local max 4 days
for imported max 12 days.
6. Obtain 4 sets of samples of all accessories with at least 3 different options from the supplier. One for
merchandisers, one for the customer, one for the quality control, & one for the suppliers for future references.
7. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against customer specifications.
8. Thoroughly check with the original/instructions received from the buyer, artwork, color, quality, sewing
allowance, bar code, price tags etc.
9. Prepare accessories format sheet, format attached.
11. Prepare at least 2 synergies trim/accessories cards. One for buyer & one for merchandiser.
12. Forward the accessories to the customers on as & when received basis.
15. After approval advise the supplier accordingly.
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PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES:
1. Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of pre-production sample maximum 2 days.
2. Obtain 4 sets of pre-production samples from the supplier. One for merchandisers, one for the
customer, one for the quality control, & one for the suppliers for future references.
3. Pre production sample in all size sets should be available to the merchandisers at least 5 days before
the start of actual production.
4. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against customer specifications.
5. Thoroughly check the styling, measurement, stitching, quality of the fabric, fabric construction/GSM,
hand feel, washing standard, finishing of the sample & accessories.
6. Prepare PP sample format sheet, format attached.
8. Forward the pre-production sample to the customers on as & when received basis.
11. Once approved advised the supplier.
DYE LOTS:
1. Follow-up with the supplier and quality control for the delivery of dye lot.
2. Dye Lot should be available (6 X 6, for every roll) to the merchandisers at least 5 days before the
start of actual production.
3. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier forward the same to lab for lab test & match these against
customer specifications.
4. Thoroughly see the color standard, color fastness, shrinkage, GSM/construction, hang feel, fabric
quality, knitting tension, Lycra etc.
5. Receive Dye Lot sample format sheet from lab, format attached.
BULK ACCESSORIES:
1. Follow-up with the supplier for the delivery of bulk accessories.

2. These accessories should be available to the merchandisers at least 5 days before the start of actual
production.
3. Upon receipt match these against customer specifications.
4. Thoroughly check the accessories color & quality of trim against buyers comments.
5. Prepare Bulk Accessories format sheet, format attached.
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PRODUCTION:
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1. Once sampling is completed Head of concern Merchandiser forwards the order file to the Head of
Quality Control along with the approved sample & a copy of projected production schedule. Make sure the file
is forwarded at least 5 days before start of actual production.
2. A meeting should be conducted between the Head of Merchandising Department, Concern
Merchandiser, Head of Quality Control & Quality Control Officer (Production) discussing all the details of
order.
3. Obtain an instruction sheet covering all the required information from the quality control officer &
approve.
4. Make sure any new comments are added into the instruction sheet.
5. Regular follow up should be made with the suppliers & Quality Control regarding the status of
production.
6. Make sure the Quality Control Department conduct all the required inspections i.e. Fabric Quality
Testing, ILC, IPC, MPC & FRI for every order. For large volumes make certain, there are more than 1 MPC
being conducted by the quality control.
7. Obtain daily production status from Quality Control & forward the same to IT for updating the Web
Site latest by 11:00 every morning.
8. Obtain reports of all the inspection conducted i.e. Fabric Quality Testing, ILC, IPC, MPC & FRI for
every order from quality control & keep a copy for record.
9. Visit the supplier at least during one inspection.
10. Make sure that FRI is conducted at least 2 days before the shipment date.
11. Once FRI is OK, inform buyer.
SHIPMENT / SALESMAN SAMPLES:
1. Inform Head of Quality Control for Shipment Sample.

2. Obtain 2 sets of shipment samples from the Quality Control Department of all sizes covering all colors
or as specified by the Customer. One or two pieces to be provided to concerned Merchandiser & all remaining
to Manager Administration. In case where buyer requires shipment samples receive one complete set from
Quality Control.
3. Shipment samples should be available to the merchandisers the next day of FRI.
4. Upon receipt of samples, conduct a thorough check & match these against customer specifications.
5. Thoroughly check the getup, styling, stitching, fabric quality, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel,
washing standard, finishing, & accessories.
6. Prepare Shipment sample format sheet.
7. Head of department will give the final approval.
8. Merchandiser's are required to give in writing to QC Head with a copy to Head of Operations & their
departmental head the name of our customers to whom we normally sent shipment sample.
9. If required, forward the shipment sample to the customers on as & when received basis.
11. Forward one set of shipment samples to administration department.
12. Keep remaining samples in the department for future use & maintain a register.
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DELIVERY & COMMERCIAL DEPT.

1. Regular follow-up is essential to:
a. Ensure goods are handed over to the forwarder.
b. Ensure the forwarder books space/flight for timely delivery of goods.
c. Ensure staffing of goods is conducted.
d. Ensure the date of departure is as per the booking.
2. Obtain vessel/flight details from commercial department & advise buyer.
3. Receive acknowledgement of goods from buyer.
DOCUMENTATION:
1. Conduct regular follow up with commercial department & supplier for the timely delivery of all the
below mentioned documents to the buyer.
(a) Packing List
(b) Commercial Invoice
(c) GSP
(d) Country of Origin Certificate
(e) Annexure III for Mexico Shipment (must be obtained 1 month prior shipment)
(f) Country of Origin Certificate attested from Argentinean Embassy in India for Argentina shipment (must be obtained 1
month prior shipment)
(g) Bill of Lading/Master Airway Bill is sent from suppliers bank to buyers bank only.
(h) Inspection Certificate
2. All these documents are required to be sent to the buyer first via email or fax & then original via
courier.
3. Receive acknowledgement of documents from buyer.
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Apparel Merchandising
Woven fabric consumption formula.
Before calculate the woven fabric consumption, you must need the followings information as
mentioned below:
1) Measurement chart with technical spec.
2) Style Description.
3) Fabric Description.
4) Fabrics width/weight.
5) Washing shrinkage if any.
This formula is as under:
Formula = Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit
Here,
Length = length of the specific parts + allowance
Width = width of the specific parts + allowance
Fab width = Fabric width ( after considering the shrinkage allowance).
Say, fabric width is 45" & the shrinkage allowance is 1", then the Fabric width will
Be (45"-1") = 44" in the formula.
Fab unit = Fabric calculation unit, here it will be 36 because
we are going to calculate the consumption in Yards.
Now we will calculate the consumption of a Shirt (front part)
Center front length = 32"+1" (Sewing allowance) = 33"
Width (Chest) = 24" + 1" (Sewing allowance) + 3"
Pleat.W (1.5X2) = 28"
= Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit

= 33" X 28" / 44" X 36"
= 924" / 1584"
= 0.5833333
= 0.59 Yards. (for front part)

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Short cut formula for quick consumption
At first pls note the below point:
Body length = Body length + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing
allowance to be added)
Body width = Chest width + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing
Sleeve Length = Sleeve length + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing
Suppose:
Body length = 32" + 1" (Seam Allowance ) = 33"
Sleeve length = 23" + 2.5" (Cuff width)

+ 1.5" (Seam Allowance) = 27"
1/2 Chest Width = 24" + 1" (S.A) + 3" Pleat width

= 28"
Formula: = {1/2 Chest X (CB length + Sleeve length)}X 2 / 36 / Fabric width + wastes %
= {28" X (33+27)} X 2 / 36 / 44 + 5%
= (28X60) X 2 / 36 / 44 + 5%
= 2.22 YDS / PC
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Knit fabric consumption formula.prchandising, Learn Fion
desi.
Consumption of knit garments pls follow the below instruction.
Here we will consider the size: "L" for calculate the consumption
i. Body length of the garments in cm. Say it is - 73 cm
ii. Sleeve length of the garments in cm. Say it is - 19.5 cm
iii. Approximate sewing allowance at body hem, shoulder joint, sleeve hem &
armhole joint (in cm). Say it is - 10 cm
iv. Chest width (1/2) in cm. Say it is - 52 cm
v. Approximate sewing allowance at both side seam (in cm). Say it is - 4 cm
vi. Fabric GSM (finish). Say it is - 160 gsm
vii. Approximate fabric wastage in various stage. Say it is - 10%
Rules:
{(B/length + S/length + Sewing Allowance) X (1/2 Chest
+ Sewing Allowance)}X 2 X GSM X 12 / 10000000 + Wastage
= {(73 + 19.5 + 10) X (52 + 4)} X 2 X 160 X 12 / 10000000 + 10%
= (102.5 X 56) X 2 X 160 X 12 / 10000000 + 10%
= 5740 X 2 X 160 X 12 /10000000 +10%
= 22041600 / 10000000 + 10%
= 2.20416 + 10 %
= 2.424576
= 2.43 kg per dozen. (Consumption)

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Calculate the CM of a Garments.
COST OF MAKING (CM)
= {(Monthly total expenditure of the following factory / 26) / (Qty of running

Machine of your factory of the following month) X (Number of machine to complete
the layout)} / [{(Production capacity per hr from the existing layout,excluding alter
& reject) X 8}] X 12 / (Dollar conversion rate)
= [{(50,00,000 / 26) / ( 100 ) X (25)} / {(200) X 8}] X 12 / 74
= [{192307.7 / (100) X (25) } / 1600] X 12 / 74
= (48,076.9 / 1600) X 12 / 74
= 30.048 X 12 / 74
= 360.58 / 74
= $4.873 / dozen (this is the making cost (12 pcs) of the following items)
However, normally at present (after starting the new salary scale)

in Bangladesh we calculate the CM of any item consider the overhead sewing
machine cost 1200 tk to 1400 tk/day that means $16.216 to $18.92/per day.
Above is for a non-compliance factory. For the a compliance factory the per day
machine cost will be 1800 tk to 2100 tk ( $24.32 to $28.37)
SO, if the an items produce 1600 pcs per day using 25 machines then the CM will be
= Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity X 12 / $74
= 1400 X 25 / 1600 X 12 / 74
= $3.547/DOZ
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Sewing Thread Consumption per Body
Sewing thread consumption is very important for the garments costing. For quick costing we
use our previous idea to calculate the sewing thread cost. Please find below an approximate
sewing thread consumption list for some common item. This list is based on minimum
wastage. So, at first please check your percent of wastage & and try to control it.
Consumption of sewing
Item thread / body
Basic T-shirt 125 mtr

Basic Polo shirt 180 mtr
Basic L/slv Woven Shirt 150 mtr
Basic S/slv Woven Shirt 125 mtr
Classic L/slv Woven Shirt 175 mtr
Classic S/slv Woven Shirt 150 mtr
Basic shorts 350 mtr
Classic Shorts 450 mtr
Basic L/pants 350 mtr
Classic L/pants 450 mtr
Basic Nylon Jogging Suit 500 mtr
Basic Short all 350 mtr
Classic Short all 400 mtr
Basic Overall 400 mtr
Classic Overall 500 mtr
Padded Coverall 450 mtr
Basic Romper 350 mtr
Classic Romper 450 mtr
Night Dress 200 mtr
Pajama Set 450 mtr
Skirt 300 mtr
Panty 50 mtr
Brief 50 mtr
Brassier 100 mtr
30
Corp set 150 mtr

Page
Tank Top 50 mtr

Denim 5 Pocket Pants 400 mtr
Basic Nylon Padded Jacket 350 mtr
Classic Nylon Padded Jacket 500 mtr
Denim Jacket 450 mtr
Twill Jacket 450 mtr
Basic Nylon Wind Breaker 300 mtr
CALCULATION OF GSM Learn Fashion design.

GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important parameter
for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in
weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most
knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100
square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut
by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.
There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric
First formula is as under:
Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex

GSM = ---------------------------------------------------------------------- &
1000 X 1000
WPI X CPI X SL(mm)

GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155
Count(Ne)
Another formula is the following:
Ks x Tex
GSM = ---------------------
Stitch length (mm)
Where,
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is
calculated and estimated as below:
GSM x Stitch length

Ks = -----------------------------
Tex
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Calculate the Price of a Carton.
How to calculate the price of a carton. The following 04 (four)

information are as listed below:
i. Carton length in cm of your expected carton.
ii. Carton width in cm of your expected carton.
iii. Carton height in cm of your expected carton.
iv. Rate of per square meter liner in US$.
Otherwise you may follow the below rules.
Say,
The length of carton is = 60
The width of carton is = 40
The height of carton is = 30
Price for 7 ply liner rate = $0.80/ Sqm (square meter)
Carton cost calculation rule
= [{(Length + width + allowance) X (Width + Height + 4)} X 2] / 10000 X Per square liner rate
= [{(60 + 40 + 6) X (40 + 30 + 4)} X 2] / 10000 X $0.80
= [{(106) X (74)} X 2] / 10000 X $0.80
= {(7844 X 2)} / 10000 X $0.80
= 15688 / 10000 X $0.80
= 1.5688 X $0.80
= $1.25504 / pc (Per carton rate)

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Machine Wise Sewing Thread Consumption PER
Inch
From this post you will get information regarding the sewing thread consumption depending on
type of Machine :
Machine Name Classification Require thread/inch

Plain Machine, 1 Needle, 2.5"
Plain Machine 2 Needle 5"
Over lock 3 Thread 13.25"
Flat lock 3 Thread 16.75"
Flat lock 5 Thread 22.25"
Bar tack stitching 7" Generally P/Operation
Button hole stitching 7" Generally Per Hole
Button Attaching (2 hole) 3" Per button

Feed of the ARM 7" For one needle
Kanchai Stitching 7" For one needle
Back Tape Stitching 7" For one needle
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Price Break Down For Polo Shirt
Description : 100% cotton pique polo shirt with two button at front placket w/o any pocket.
Suppose :
i) The body fabric consumption is 4.05 kg / dozen
So, total yarn consumption will be = 4.05 + 9%
= 4.05 + 0.3645
= 4.41 kg / dozen
ii) The current yarn price is $4.00/kg
iii) The current Pique knitting cost is $0.20/kg (Knitted by
circular knit S/J M/c)
iv) Average color dyeing cost is $1.21 / kg
v) Normally Collar & cuff consumption is 60 gram/body
(1 pc collar & 2 pcs cuff)
So,
for 12 pcs it will be - 0.06 X 12 + 9% = 0.78 kg / dozen
vi) Collar & cuff Knitting cost is $0.05 (knitted by flat

knitting m/c)
---------------------------------------------------------------
Now start costing
1st step
Body fabric cost calculation:
Yarn price / kg = $4.00

Knitting cost /kg = $0.20
Dyeing cost / kg = $1.21
_____________________
Finished fabric cost = $5.41
2nd Step
Collar & cuff cost calculation:
Yarn cost/Doz = 0.78 X $4.00 = $3.12

Knitting cost/Doz = $0.05 X 12 = $0.60
Dyeing cost = 0.78 X $1.21 = $0.94
___________________________________
Collar & Cuff cost / Doz = $4.66
3rd Step
Total production cost:
Body fabric cost ( 4.41 kg X $5.41) = $23.86 / Doz
Collar & Cuff cost = $4.66 / Doz
CM = $6.00 / Doz
Accessories Cost = $3.00 / Doz
__________________________________________
Total production cost: = $37.52 / doz
Final Step
Fob pricing of per piece polo shirt:

Total production cost : = $37.52 / doz
Commercial cost will be (3%) = $0.95 / doz (Except CM)
Profit will (20% of CM) = $1.20 / doz
_________________________________________
Total FOB price (doz) = $39.67 / doz
Fob price per piece will be = $3.3058 / pc
34
Final quoted price for buyer = $3.35 / pc (FOB)

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Price list for Print & Embroidary on Denim Fabric cut panel.
BUYER:CARRE FOUR
GARMENTS:FASHION FLASH
REVISED PRICE FOR GIRLS DEPARTMENT
SL ORDER PRICE/DOZ
STYLE DESCRIPTION TOTAL
NO NO PRINT EMB.
01 color rubber & 02 color
DJG-13 US $ 2.50 US $ 1.25
1 1506438 emb. US $ 4.90
DJG-13 b 01 color emb. US $ 1.15
01 color,01 color hi-density
DJG-14 US $ 3.50 US $ 1.25
& 01 color emb
02 color emb. With poplin
DJB-14 b US $ 1.50
2 1506439 patches US $ 11.40
DJB-14 c 01 color Emb. US $ 1.15
02 color Emb. & 0 01 color
DJB-14 d US $ 2.50 US $ 1.50
rubber print
01 color rubber,01 color hi-
DJG-17 US $ 3.50 US $ 1.25
density&01 color emb
04 color emb with poplin
DJG-17 b US $ 4.50
patches
3 1506440 US $ 13.50
DJG-17 c US $ 1.50
patches
DJG-17 d 02 color emb. US $ 1.50
DJG-17 e 01 color Emb. US $ 1.25
04 color emb with poplin
DJG-15 US $ 4.50
patches
DJG-15 b 01 color Emb. US $ 1.25
4 1506441 US $ 11.00
DJG-15 c 02 color emb. US $ 1.50
DJG-15 d 01 color Emb. US $ 1.25
DJG-15 e 01 color rubber print. US $ 2.50
DOJG-T 02 color Emb. US $ 1.50
5 1506442 DOJG-M US $ 1.50 US $ 5.50
patches
DJG-16 01 color rubber print. US $ 2.50
DOJG-U 01 color Emb. US $ 1.25
6 1506443 US $ 2.50
DJG-18 01 color Emb. US $ 1.25
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Price list for Embroidary on complete Sweater
FAC : BADRUNNESA SWEATER LTD BUYER: C&A (DISNEY)
SLN STYLE PART DESCRIPTION STITCH PRICE ($)
1 MBW-122-ED-09 2 3 applique embo 20000 $ 6.00/dz
2 HKW-123-LICP-007 1 1 applique n lurex embo 12200 $ 3.25/dz
3 HKW-122-LICT-013 2 2 applique embo 26700 $ 7.25/dz
4 MPBW-122-CJ-27 3 3 applique embo 12700 $ 4.45/dz
5 HKW-122-LICT-010 1 Solid stitching 19500 $ 4.90/dz
6 HKW-122-LICT-014 1 1 applique n lurex embo 14200 $ 4.30/dz
7 HKW-122-LICK-012 2 1 applique n lurex embo 20000 $ 5.90/dz
8 MPS-122-CJ-15 1 Solid stitching 8600 $ 2.15/dz
9 IAM-122-LH-08 1 Solid stitching 25000 $ 5.50/dz
10 SBW-122-LH-07 1 Solid stitching 26200 $ 5.80/dz
11 HKW-122-LICT-011 1 Lurex embo 11500 $ 2.90/dz
12 BOW-122-ED-05 1 1 applique embo 14500 $ 3.50/dz
13 HKW-122-LICT-017 1 1 applique embo 17500 $ 5.25/dz
14 MPW-121-CJ-20 1 1 applique badge 11500 $ 2.75/dz
15 DOW-122-LH-06 1 Solid stitching 49200 $ 9.80/dz
16 MPBW-122-CJ-24 2 3 applique embo 7500 $ 2.90/dz
17 CAW-122-ED-26A 3 1 applique embo 45000 $ 9.50/dz
18 MGW-122-OS-10 2 1 applique embo 45580 $ 9.50/dz
19 MM-122-OS-04 2 Lurex embo 25500 $ 6.50/dz
20 MBW-122-ED-10 1 3 applique embo 25800 $ 7.75/dz
21 MGW-122-OS-15 1 Lurex embo 38500 $ 7.75/dz
24 MGW-122-OS-11 2 Solid stitching 27200 $ 5.75/dz
25 PPW-122-LH04 1 Solid stitching 35000 $ 7.25/dz
27 CAW-122-ED-30B 2 4 applique embo 54700 $ 14.50/dz
36
Page
Sample development Status with color
standard (Aplique & Thread).
Badrunnesa Sweater Ltd.
Buyer : C&A
COLOR STANDARD
SL STYL C. PRINT/EMB EMBO- EMBO- REMARK
FELT EMBO-2
N E W O 1 3 S
Mood
A T-9595 T-417 T-9595
Indigo
carribea
B Much T-5391 T-5391
FK- n sea
1 Embo
192 Horizon N-063- N-063-
C T-1719
Blue 72 72
Rhubar Rhubar
D Eclipse T-9595
b b
Mood
A T-417
Indigo
FK- B Much T-5391
2 Print + Embo Print : White
193 C Seaport T-7491
Rhubar
D Eclipse
b
Steel N-063-
A T-1719 T-417
Grey 72
Carribea
B Much T-1719 T-5391
FK- n Sea
3 Embo
194 Steel N-063-
C T-1719 T-7491
Grey 72
Steel Rhubar
D Eclipse T-1719
Grey b
FK- A Col-1: Eclipse Col-2 :Steel Gray
4 Print
195 B Col-1: Rhubarb Col-2 :Eclipse
Mood
A T-1719 T-417 Khaki
Indigo
FK- B Much T-1719 T-5391 T-7491
5 Embo
196 Dark
C Seaport T-1719 T-7491
shado
D Eclipse T-1719 T-417 T-3979 37
Page
Trims
The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims.On the other hand
materials are directly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like:
Threads, buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc.(Interlining is used as
shape forming / preserving materials.)
Accessories
The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than
fabricsand trims, are called Accessories.
List of Trims and Accessories

SL Trims Accessories
1 Labels Poly bag
2 Buttons Elastic bag
3 Zippers Mini Poly bag
4 Padding Master Carton
5 Interlining Inner Carton
6 Down Size Clip
7 Elastic P.P.Band
8 Thread Tag Pin
9 Twill Tape Brass Pin
10 Stopper Collar Stand
11 String/Draw Cord Safety Pin
12 Piping Cord Gum Tape
13 Emblem Arrow Sticker
14 Logo Print Scotch Tape
15 Swivel Hook Barcode
16 Eyelet/ Grommet Defect Indicator
17 Collar Stay Tissue Paper
18 Cord Bell Back Board
19 Buckle Neck Board
20 Rivet Butterfly
21 Weaving Belt Numbering Stickers
22 Hook and Eye Hanger
23 Velcro Tape Size Stickers
24 Seam Sealing tape Carton Pad
25 Shoulder pad Both Side Tape
26 Cable( steel ware) Plastic Staple
27 Adjuster Iron Seal
28 Recco Clip
29 Elastic Threads Ball chain
38
30 Shoulder Tape Size Tag

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31 - Carton Sticker
32 - Safety Sticker
33 - Plastic Clip
Finishing Accessories
Finishing Accessories
1. Main Label: .15 - .30 USD/ Dzn

2. Size Label: .05 - .08
3. Wash care label:.05 - .10
4. Polybag: .30 - .35
5. Carton: .10 - .15
6. Sewing Thread: .25 -.40
7. Gum Tape: .10 - .15
8. Flag Label
Print:
1. Pigmant
2. Rubber
3. Plastic Salt
4. High Density
5. Suger Print
6. Gel Print
7. Glitter Print
8. Discharge Print
9. Reactive Print
Per 12000 Stitch = .25-.28 USD (Normal)= .30 - .35 USD (Appliqu)
Embroidery thread consumption Meter/ Body= Emb. stitch X .006
Price of Emb. Thread= 1.30 USD/ Cone Normal
Thread contain = 3000 meter/ cone or 2000 meter / cone
Wash:
1. Normal: 1.50 USD/DZN

2. Enzyme: 2.5 USD/DZN
3. Pigment: 3 USD/kg
4. Acid wash: 3 USD/kg
5. Silicon Wash: 1.50 USD/DZN
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How do calculate button ligne from mm
How do calculate button ligne from mm (milimetre)
If Button length (dia) is 12.7 mm then Button ligne will be ?
Rule:
Button dia (in mm) / 0.635 = button ligne
12.7 mm / 0.635 = 20 L (L = ligne )
Result = 20 L
Chart of button ligne (mm to ligne)
INCOTERMS
INCOTERMS
International Commercial Terms
Please find the SUMMERY at first (you will get the details at below)
Group Term Stands for
E EXW Ex Works
F FCA Free Carrier
FAS Free Alongside Ship
FOB Free On Board
C CFR Cost and Freight
CIF Cost. Insurance and Freight
CPT Carriage Paid To
CIP Carriage and Insurance Paid To
D DAF Delivered At Frontier
DES Delivered Ex Ship
DEQ Delivered Ex Quay
DDU Delivered Duty Unpaid
DDP Delivered Duty Paid
The INCOTERMS (International Commercial Terms) is a universally recognized set of definitions

of international trade terms, such as FOB, CFR and CIF, developed by the International Chamber
of Commerce (ICC) in Paris, France.
It defines the trade contract responsibilities and liabilities between buyer and seller. It is
invaluable and a cost-saving tool. The exporter and the importer need not undergo a lengthy
negotiation about the conditions of each transaction. Once they have agreed on a commercial
term like FOB, they can sell and buy at FOB without discussing who will be responsible for the
freight, cargo insurance, and other costs and risks.
40

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E EXW Ex Works
EXW {+ the named place}
Ex Works
Ex means from & Works means factory, mill or warehouse, which is the sellers premise.
EXW applies to goods available only at the seller's premises. Buyer is responsible for loading the
goods on truck or container at the seller's premises, and for the subsequent costs and risks.
In the quotation, indicate the named place (seller's premises) after the acronym EXW, for
example EXW Gazipur or EXW Naraynganj.

F FCA Free Carrier
FAS Free Alongside Ship
FOB Free On Board
FCA {+ the named point of departure}
Free Carrier
The delivery of goods on truck, rail car or container at the specified point (depot) of departure, which
is usually the seller's premises, or a named railroad station or a named cargo terminal or into the
custody of the carrier, at seller's expense. The point (depot) at origin may or may not be a customs
clearance center. Buyer is responsible for the main carriage/freight, cargo insurance and other costs
and risks.
In the air shipment, technically speaking, goods placed in the custody of an air carrier is considered
as delivery on board the plane. In practice, many importers and exporters still use the term FOB in
the air shipment.
The term FCA is also used in the RO/RO (roll on/roll off) services.
In the export quotation, indicate the point of departure (loading) after the acronym FCA, for
example FCA Hong Kong and FCA Seattle.
Some manufacturers may use the former terms FOT (Free On Truck) and FOR (Free On Rail) in
selling to export-traders.
FAS {+ the named port of origin}

Free Alongside Ship
Goods are placed in the dock shed or at the side of the ship, on the dock or lighter, within reach of its
loading equipment so that they can be loaded aboard the ship, at seller's expense. Buyer is
responsible for the loading fee, main carriage/freight, cargo insurance, and other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the port of origin (loading) after the acronym FAS, for example FAS
New York and FAS Bremen.
The FAS term is popular in the break-bulk shipments and with the importing countries using their own
vessels.
FOB {+ the named port of origin}

Free On Board
The delivery of goods on board the vessel at the named port of origin (loading), at seller's expense.
Buyer is responsible for the main carriage/freight, cargo insurance and other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the port of origin (loading) after the acronym FOB, for example FOB
Vancouver and FOB Shanghai.
Under the rules of the INCOTERMS 1990, the term FOB is used for ocean freight only. However, in
practice, many importers and exporters still use the term FOB in the air freight.
In North America, the term FOB has other applications. Many buyers and sellers in Canada and the
41
U.S.A. dealing on the open account and consignment basis are accustomed to using the shipping
terms FOB Origin and FOB Destination.
Page
FOB Origin means the buyer is responsible for the freight and other costs and risks. FOB
Destination means the seller is responsible for the freight and other costs and risks until the goods
are delivered to the buyer's premises, which may include the import customs clearance and payment
of import customs duties and taxes at the buyer's country, depending on the agreement between the
buyer and seller.
In international trade, avoid using the shipping terms FOB Origin and FOB Destination, which are not
part of the INCOTERMS (International Commercial Terms).

C CFR Cost and Freight
CIF Cost. Insurance and Freight
CPT Carriage Paid To
CIP Carriage and Insurance Paid To
CFR {+ the named port of destination}
Cost and Freight

The delivery of goods to the named port of destination (discharge) at the seller's expense. Buyer is
responsible for the cargo insurance and other costs and risks. The term CFR was formerly written
as C&F. Many importers and exporters worldwide still use the term C&F.
In the export quotation, indicate the port of destination (discharge) after the acronym CFR, for
example CFR Karachi and CFR Alexandria.
Under the rules of the INCOTERMS 1990, the term Cost and Freight is used for ocean freight only.
However, in practice, the term Cost and Freight (C&F) is still commonly used in the air freight.
CIF {+ the named port of destination}
Cost, Insurance and Freight

The cargo insurance and delivery of goods to the named port of destination (discharge) at the seller's
expense. Buyer is responsible for the import customs clearance and other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the port of destination (discharge) after the acronym CIF, for
example CIF Pusan and CIF Singapore.
Under the rules of the INCOTERMS 1990, the term CIF is used for ocean freight only. However, in
practice, many importers and exporters still use the term CIFin the air freight.
CPT {+ the named place of destination}
Carriage Paid To
The delivery of goods to the named place of destination (discharge) at seller's expense. Buyer
assumes the cargo insurance, import customs clearance, payment of customs duties and taxes, and
other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the place of destination (discharge) after the acronym CPT, for
example CPT Los Angeles and CPT Osaka.
CIP {+ the named place of destination}
Carriage and Insurance Paid To

The delivery of goods and the cargo insurance to the named place of destination (discharge) at
seller's expense. Buyer assumes the import customs clearance, payment of customs duties and taxes,
and other costs and risks.
42
In the export quotation, indicate the place of destination (discharge) after the acronym CIP, for
Page
example CIP Paris and CIP Athens.

D DAF Delivered At Frontier
DES Delivered Ex Ship
DEQ Delivered Ex Quay
DDU Delivered Duty Unpaid
DDP Delivered Duty Paid
DAF {+ the named point at frontier}
Delivered At Frontier
The delivery of goods to the specified point at the frontier at seller's expense. Buyer is responsible for
the import customs clearance, payment of customs duties and taxes, and other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the point at frontier (discharge) after the acronym DAF, for
example DAF Buffalo and DAF Welland.
DES {+ the named port of destination}

Delivered Ex Ship
The delivery of goods on board the vessel at the named port of destination (discharge), at seller's
expense. Buyer assumes the unloading fee, import customs clearance, payment of customs duties
and taxes, cargo insurance, and other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the port of destination (discharge) after the acronym DES, for
example DES Helsinki and DES Stockholm.
DEQ {+ the named port of destination}
Delivered Ex Quay
The delivery of goods to the quay (the port) at destination at seller's expense. Seller is responsible for
the import customs clearance and payment of customs duties and taxes at the buyer's end. Buyer
assumes the cargo insurance and other costs and risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the port of destination (discharge) after the acronym DEQ, for
example DEQ Libreville and DEQ Maputo.
DDU {+ the named point of destination}

Delivered Duty Unpaid
The delivery of goods and the cargo insurance to the final point at destination, which is often the
project site or buyer's premises, at seller's expense. Buyer assumes the import customs clearance and
payment of customs duties and taxes. The seller may opt not to insure the goods at his/her own
risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the point of destination (discharge) after the acronym DDU, for
example DDU La Paz and DDU Ndjamena.
DDP {+ the named point of destination}
Delivered Duty Paid

The seller is responsible for most of the expenses, which include the cargo insurance, import customs
clearance, and payment of customs duties and taxes at the buyer's end, and the delivery of goods to
the final point at destination, which is often the project site or buyer's premises. The seller may opt
not to insure the goods at his/her own risks.
In the export quotation, indicate the point of destination (discharge) after the acronym DDP, for
example DDP Bujumbura and DDP Mbabane.
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Price list of sweater yarn.
Pls find below a price list (18.08.11) of sweater yarn (dyed).
These are the current prices when I am posting this.
Its may vary or changed with the time. It is not constant.
Its may also vary depending on factories.
I have collected it from a large sweater yarn dyeing factory.
S/L Yarn Count Description of Yarn Unit Price/lbs Remarks
ACRYLIC GROUP
1. 2/32 SMM/ 100% Acrylic High Bulky $2.30 ( 3,5,7 GG)

2. 2/36 SMM 100% Acrylic High Bulky $2.35 (Upto 10 GG)
3. 1/36 SMM 100% Acrylic High Bulky $2.50 (Upto 12 GG)
4. 2/27 NM 100% Acrylic Cotton Like (Full Dull) $2.85 (3,5,7 GG)
5. 2/28 SMM 100% Acrylic Cashmere Like (Piece Dye) $2.70 (3, 5 GG)
6. 2/32 SMM 100% Acrylic Cashmere Like $2.70 (3,5,7 GG)
7. 2/36 SMM 100% Acrylic Cashmere Like $2.80 (Upto 12 GG)
8. 1/9 NM 100% Acrylic Smiling (Dull) $2.60 (3,5,7 GG)
9. 2/32 SMM 100% Acrylic Melange $2.50 (3,5,7 GG)
10. 2/32 SMM 100% Acrylic Wool Like $2.45 (3,5,7 GG)
11. 2/40 SMM 100% Bright Acrylic $2.80 (10-12 GG)
12. 2/52 SMM 100% Bright Acrylic $2.90 (10-12 GG)
ACRYLIC/WOOL GROUP
13. 2/32 SMM 70% Acrylic 30% Wool (Double Dyed) $3.05 (3,5,7 GG)
14. 2/32 SMM 70% Acrylic 30% Wool (Single Dyed) $3.05 (3,5,7 GG)
COTTON GROUP
19. 2/20 NE 50% Acrylic 50% Cotton $3.15 (3,5,7 GG)
20. 2/30 NE 50% Acrylic 50% Cotton (Combed) $3.50 (Upto 12 GG)
21. 2/20 NE 100% Cotton (Carded) $2.50 (3,5,7 GG)
22. 2/32 NE 100% Cotton (Combed) $2.95 (Upto 12 GG)
OTHER FANCY
23. 1/5.5 100% Acrylic Tamu $2.50 (3,5,7 GG)
24. 1/5.5 100% Acrylic Brushed $2.50 (3,5,7 GG)
25. 1/5.5 100% Acrylic Mohair Like $2.50 (3,5,7 GG)
26. 1/5.5 100% Acrylic Tamu Melange $2.65 (3,5,7 GG)
27. 1/16 NM 64% Viscose 36% Nylon $3.00 (10,12 GG)
28. 2/30 100% Viscose $3.10 (10,12 GG)
29. 1/16 NM 70% Acrylic 30% Nylon $3.40 (10,12 GG)
30. 1/3.5 NM Acrylic Chenille $2.85 (5 GG)
31. 1/2.2 NM Acrylic Chenille $2.60 (3 GG)
32. 1/3.5 NM Cotton Chenille $3.65 (5 GG)
33. 2/16 NE (1 Ply) 40% Acrylic 60% Cotton (Bulky) $3.65 (3,5,7 GG)
34. 2/16 * (4 Ply) 40% Acrylic 60% Cotton (Roving) $3.65 (3,5 GG)
44
35. 2/16 * (2 Ply) 40% Acrylic 60% Cotton (Roving) $3.65 (3,5,7 GG)
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Cost & Consumption calculation of
Sweater
Cost & Consumption calculation of Sweater
From this example we will learn how calculate the price of sweater
Style: Cable leader Jumper, 100% Acrylic, 3 GG
Say, Weight of yarn = 12.00 LBS/Doz
Wastage of yarn = 10%
Yarn price = $2.50/lbs
Accessories Cost = $4.00/doz
CM = $36.00/doz
Costing
Rules = {(Sweater garments weight(doz) + Wastage) X Yarn price(per lbs)} + Accessories cost
(per doz) + CM (per doz)
= (12.00 + 10%) X $2.50 + $4.00 + $36.00
= (13.2 X $2.50) + $4.00 + $36.00
= $33.00 + $4.00 + $36.00
= $73.00/doz (without any commercial cost)
= $6.0833 / pc
Sweater Knitting Stitch Classification

1) Jersey Stitch
2) Reverse Stitch
3) Drop Stitch
4) Milanese Stitch
5) Half Cardigan Stitch
6) Full Cardigan Stitch
7) Sucker Stitch
8) Mystics Reverse Stitch
9) Mizu Stitch etc.

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Sweater Knitting Designs Classification
1) Cable Design
i) Fancy Cable Design
ii) Normal Cable Design
iii) 2 pins, 3 pins, 4 pins & 5 pins cable design.
2) Diamond Design
i) Fancy diamond design
ii) Normal diamond design
iii) 1.2 pins, 1.1 pins & 3.3 pins diamond design
3) Ottoman Design : Troupe Design
i) Coarse
ii) Thin
iii) Medium
Sweater GAUGE calculation system

i) 1.5 gauge contains : from 9 to 13 plies
ii) 3 gauge contains : from 6 to 8 plies
iii) 5 gauge contains : from 3 to 5 plies
iv) 7 gauge contains : from 2 to 3 plies
v) 10 gauge contains : from 1 to 2 plies
vi) 12 gauge contains : only 1 plies
List of Require Machineries for Sweater Factory

1) Winding Machine
2) Knitting Machine
3) Linking Machine
4) Washing Machine
5) Hydro extractor Machine
6) Dryer Machine
7) Boiler Machine
8) Steam Iron
9) Over lock Machine
10) Label Sewing Machine

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How do calculate Applique consumption for knit
garments.
Calculating of Appliqu for knit garments.
Say, Applique length = 25 cm
Applique width = 15 cm
Fabric Gsm = 160
Rules:
Length X Width X GSM X 12 / 10000000 + Wastage
= 25 X 15 X 160 X 12 / 10000000 + 25%
= 0.09 kg per dozen (consumption of the applique)
Calculate weight of fabric

Calculate weight of fabric from the given data.
Grammage 300 GSM
Width of fabric 35 inches (in tubular form)
Length of fabric 20 meters
First we will calculate area of the fabric
Area of fabric = Fabric length * fabric width
= 20 * 35*2 (since fabric is in tubular)
39.37 (one meter is equal to 39.37 inches)
= 35.6 meter square
Weight of one meter square is = 300 (GSM)
And weight of 35.6 meter square = 300*35.6
Ans. = 10680 grams or 10.680 Kgs
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Some common Garment Defects.
Please find below some common Garments Defects which we generally
found during production.
Sewing Defects
Open seams,
Wrong stitching techniques,
Non- matching threads,
Missing stitches,
Improper creasing of the garment,
Erroneous thread tension and raw edges.
Color Defects
Variation of color between the sample and the final garment,
Wrong color combinations and mismatching dyes should always be avoided.
Sizing Defects
Wrong gradation of sizes,

Difference in measurement of various parts of a garment like sleeves of XL size for body
of L size garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.
Others Defects
Broken buttons or defective buttons, Broken snaps,
Broken stitches, Different shades within the same garment,
Dropped stitches, Exposed notches and raw edges,
Fabric defects, Fabric holes,
Faulty zippers, Loose or hanging sewing threads,
Misaligned buttons and holes, Missing buttons,
Needle cuts or chews, Pulled yarn or loose yarn,
Stains, Unfinished buttonhole,
Short zippers,
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MATERIALS (FABRICS)
DEFECTS MAJOR MINOR

Any holes, obvious weakness or flaw that could develop into a Yes
hole.
Any cuts, tears or surface repairs made during production, Yes

packaging or transit.
Any pulled threads or snags between buttons or button holes, Yes

seams or visible part.
Any Slub 1cm or more in length or 2 threads wide in any Yes

conspicuous or focal points of garments.
Other hidden or obscure areas. Yes
Any Slub 1cm or below. Yes
Any barre fabric, dye spots, misprints, smudges or faulty

registration of prints that are obviously noticeable Yes
Any miss-matching or stripes, checks, plaids, on fronts, backs

or seams. (Not agreed on sealed sample). Yes
Any bowing of the fabric. If it seriously affects the

appearance or performance of the garment.
a. 1.2cm or more Yes
b. Less than 1cm Yes
Any shading of parts within the garment. Shade variations
within or between garments. (Not agreed on sealed sample). Yes
Any pilling or surface fuzzing of fabrics. Yes
Any yellowing of fabric trims and shoulder pads due to
nitrogen dioxide and packaging. Yes
Any high immature cotton or foreign fiber content. Yes
Any monofilament sowing yarns. Yes
Any variation on in handle or finish (Not agreed on sealed

sample).
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Sewing section problems
Problems Probable Remedies
1. Power problem - 65% last month. 1. To ensure Power supply properly.
2. Fabric does not deliver from cutting 2. Duties and responsibilities should be
section timely - 30% last month. increased in cutting section. If problem in
technical side should be removed.
3. Work study does not implementation 3. Officer, supervisors and worker should
properly. *Workers/Supervisors are not be worked together.
habituated. *Workers/Supervisors are not
allowed due to have ego problem.
4. Workers are not conscious about their 4. Officer, supervisors and worker should
target. motivate them.
5. Sometime sewing m/c has not proper gas 5. Factory has to concern the government
power, for that cutting knife does not work. about gad problem.
6. Working overtime is also effect on 6. Overtime schedule and payment should

productivity. give in proper time.
7. Slightly gap the relation between 7. Officer, supervisors and worker should
Workers/Supervisors/Line Chief and work be worked together.
study officer.
8. Improper line balancing method study, 8. Proper way of line balancing should be
and time study. applied
9. Less flexibility of work for workers. 9. Increase the basic flexibility to work for
workers.
10.Style change due to urgent shipment 10. Working target and plan should be
completed 2 days ago for shipment.
11.Man Power shortage at Neck binding 11. Man Power should be arrange for neck
building.
12.New Layout running 12. To train-up workers to work properly.
13.Item close 13. Item should be invented.
14.20% of oil and quality problem 14. Oil should check properly
15. Both sleeve measurement uneven due 15. After cutting it must be checked.
to cutting mistake.
16. Workers mental and Physical problem. 16. Motivational training must be arranged
per week.
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EMBROIDARY DESIGN DIAGRAM
I was looking for a quick little project to embroider last weekend so I designed this
pincushion using lots of little sparkly things from my oddments box. I think it would make a
nice little Christmas gift for any sewing friends.
Measurements This pincushion measures 10 x 10cm.
Materials Scrap of off-white wool blanketing, the kind used for heirloom ribbon
embroidery. I found a piece 28 X 23cm to be just big enough to fit in my embroidery hoop.
8 x 8mm mother of pearl shirt buttons.
8 x 10mm mother of pearl shirt buttons.
32 metallic copper seed beads with holes large enough to accommodate 4 strands of ordinary
sewing cotton.
4 clear ruby red seed beads of the same size.
8 x 5mm silver cup sequins.
6 strand embroidery thread in the following colours:
pale dusty pink
medium dusty pink
rub red (to match the seed beads)
caramel brown
light dusty green (not pale)
medium dusty green
bottle green
Ordinary sewing thread to match the medium shade of pink
Sewing thread to match your fabric
51
40 - 50 sewing pins with tops in your choice of colour to match the pincushion.
Handful of soft filling.
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Appropriate embroidery and sewing needles.

Tissue paper for tracing.
Ruler.
Set square
Compass
3cm high initial, either hand drawn or from your favourite transfer or computer font.
Method
1: Trace a 10 x 10cm square onto your tissue paper. Join the diagonals to find the centre and
draw a circle with a 4cm diameter in the centre.
2: Place the tissue over your fabric and baste over the outlines of the square and circle in a
contrasting thread. Make sure you have the grain running parallel to the sides of the square.
3: Embroider the front of the pincushion as follows, using 6 strands of thread throughout
(except where stated otherwise):
KEY
Button,
sequin, red
bead.
Lazy
Daisy st.
8mm shirt
button.
French
Knot.
Running
Stitch
couched
with three
evenly
spaced
stitches.
Button,
sequin,
metallic
copper
beads.
52
Page
a) Embroider your monogram in the centre of the circle with the caramel thread using stitches
and thread thickness appropriate to your choice of letter.
b) Embroider the circle with french knots using the lightest shade of green.
c) Embroider the four lazy daisy stitches attached to the circle using the medium shade of
green.
d) Following the embroidery diagram, sew on the eight 8mm shirt buttons with the medium
shade of pink embroidery thread.
e) Using 2 strands of the the matching pink sewing thread sew on the four large buttons
between the small buttons as follows:
Sew through the button twice
Bring the thread back to the front of the button,
through a sequin,
over the edge of the sequin and through the same button-hole again.
Repeat for the other side of the sequin, using the other button-hole
Bring the thread back to the front of the button and through the sequin,
through 8 metallic copper seed beads,
back through the first bead you threaded,
back through the sequin and the other hole in the button
Make 2 small stitches on the back of the fabric so as not to pull the thread too tight
Bring the thread to the front as before, through both the hole in the button and sequin,
Wrap the thread just below the first bead two or three times to make the beads able to lie flat.
Take the thread back through the sequin and the other button-hole and fasten off at the back
of your work.
Still sane? My brain hurts...
f) Embroider the three French knots near each corner with the pale pink thread.
g) Embroider the lazy daisy sts in each corner, and the couched threads on each side of the
square with the bottle green thread.
h) Finally sew on the remaining buttons with two strands of the red embroidery thread in each
corner, so as to form a little "flower", as follows:
Bring the thread through the button,
sequin,
bead,
Back through the sequin,
through the button and fasten off at the back.
4: Cut out the square, leaving a 1cm seam allowance all round. Cut another square to match,
making sure you have the grain of the fabric running parallel to the sides of the square.
5: With right sides facing, sew the squares together, remembering to leave a hole large
enough to turn the pincushion out the right way. Trim corners and turn cushion out the right
way.
6: Fill firmly with stuffing (or stuff firmly with filling...) and sew the opening closed with an
invisible stitch.
7: Now take all those lovely coloured pins and stick them in the cushion along the seams,
making sure you have the same number on all sides and that they are evenly spaced.
8: Finished!
53
Page
Limitations of the Report
Since our study is based on both primary and secondary data,
there is a possibility of getting fake information. If the surveyed
personnel provide us with any fabricated information about their
opinion of their organization, then the report findings may be
erroneous. Above all, this study is weak in some points.
The notable ones are as under:
The survey was conducted in a very short time so we were not

able to collect more information.
The questionnaire contains some questions that, if answered

properly, might damage the companys image. In this type of
questions, the respondents might provide socially acceptable
answers. This risk was unavoidable.
Another limitation of this study is the persons private

information were not disclosing some, data and information for
obvious reasons, which could be very much useful.
Lack of experience in this field.
54
Page
BIBLOGRAPHY:
1. James B. Dilworth, Product on and Operation Management, Fifth
Edition, 1993.
2. Hamid Noori, and Russell Radford, Production And Operation
Management, International Edition, 1995.
3. Schroeder Roger (3., Operations Management -Decision Making in
the Operation Function, 4 edition, 305-315, ISBN 0-07-112842-5
4. Hand Books for Training Program on Garments Production
Management, Conducted by WE Dept. of BUET.
5. Richard B. Chase, and Nicholas J. Aquiline, Production &
Operations Management 6 edition. 6 edition, 454-466, ISBN 0-256-128
6. Hicks, P.E., and Cowan, T.E., CRAFT-M for Layout Arrangement,
Industrial Engineering, 8, 30-35, 1976.
7. Rosenblatt, M. J., The Dynamics of Plant Layout, Management
Science, 32, 76-
86, 1986.
8. Montreuil, B. and Venkatadri, U., Strategic Interpolative Design of
Dynamic Manufacturing.
9. Bal Krishnan, I., and Cheng, C.H., Dynamic Layout Algorithms: A
State of the Art Survey, Omega, 26, 4, 507-521, 1998.
10. Multiple Period Layout Planning for Manufacturing Systems,
European Journal of Operational Research, 63, 287-303, 1992.
11. Palekar, U.S., Batta, R., Bosch, R.M., and Elhence, S., Modeling
Uncertainties in Plant Layout Problems, European Journal of
Operational Research, 63, 347-359, 1992.
12. Drolet, J. R., Scheduling Virtual Cellular Manufacturing Systems,
Ph.D. Thesis, School of Industrial Engineering, Purdue University, West
Lafayette, Indiana, 1989.
13. Kochhar, J.S. and S.S. Heragu, Facility Layout Design in a
Changing Environment, International Journal of Production Research,
37, 2429-2446, 1999.
14. www.googIe.com
15. www.future-fab.com
55
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Apparel Merchandising

How to improve organization skills?

Mastering in three skills:

Preserve your Time:

Sub Total 113.78

Lace N/a 0.00

Enzyme wash N/a 0.00

In the clothing manufacturing, supplier gives final manufacturing cost to buyer

Formula for labor cost calculation per pieces

If Sewing SAM is 15 minutes then estimated garment make cost = 15*0.40=6

So, Total estimated CM cost of the garment = (6.00+0.80) = 6.8 INR

Check garment detailing for process requirements, like printing or

Identify and list down garment components or parts

List down main material, trims and accessories used

Specification of sewing threads (thickness and variation).

In operation sequence also note seam types, stitch classes and

Review the sewing allowances required or may be required by the various

Identify finishing processes and note with specification.

Level 1: Textiles & finding manufacturers (Mill Level)

Level 2: Apparel manufacturing level

1) Perform manufacturing within own facilities and employees.

Level 3: Retail level

Catalog retailers (Examples: Land's End, L.L. Beans).

Example: Department store + Web sites+ Catalog distribution.

Fabric development stage: In the fabric

3. Make it easy for the customer.

6. Communication! Communication! Communication!

8. Cosmic force of Habit.

9. Build trust based relationships.

10. Take pride in making a difference.

Cost Breakdown of a Mens Woven Cotton Shirt sold in USA Market

Cost Heads Amount

Duty (19.8%) 1.34

Private Label importer price Mark-up 3.68

Retail price mark-up 18.39

Job List Of a Merchandiser

1. Prices must be sent within 1-2 days of receiving the inquiry.

11. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments.

A new PO package for the factory must include the following:

(i) Original PO sheet.

LAB DIP / PRINT STRIKE OFF:

1. Follow up with our customer for lab dips if necessary.

10. On approval inform supplier.

SIZE SET SAMPLES:

1. Follow up with the customer for sample accessories, if required.

17. Update the excel sheet accordingly, format enclosed.

13. Update the excel sheet accordingly, format enclosed.

1. Follow-up with the supplier for the delivery of bulk accessories.

SHIPMENT / SALESMAN SAMPLES:

1. Inform Head of Quality Control for Shipment Sample.

DELIVERY & COMMERCIAL DEPT.

Length = length of the specific parts + allowance

Width = width of the specific parts + allowance

Fab width = Fabric width ( after considering the shrinkage allowance).

Be (45"-1") = 44" in the formula.

Fab unit = Fabric calculation unit, here it will be 36 because

we are going to calculate the consumption in Yards.

Now we will calculate the consumption of a Shirt (front part)

Center front length = 32"+1" (Sewing allowance) = 33"

Width (Chest) = 24" + 1" (Sewing allowance) + 3"

Pleat.W (1.5X2) = 28"

= Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit

= 0.59 Yards. (for front part)

At first pls note the below point: