Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
16/400
DONT MISS
The views of 8598m Khangchendzonga, the worlds Fast Facts
third-highest mountain, are easily one of the West
Bengal Hills highlights. The classic viewpoints are from Population: 91.3 million
Tiger Hill or from the Singalila Trek, where the Hima- Area: 87,853 sq km
layan skyline stretches from Nepal to Bhutan. Darjeel- Capital: Kolkata
ing town also has great views, as does Deolo Hill in
Main language: Bengali
Kalimpong. The major potential spoiler is the weather.
The most reliable clear skies are at dawn during the Sleeping prices: $ below
post-monsoon months of October to December. 600, $$ 600 to 3000,
$$$ above 3000
Ri
Purnia
ve
Raiganj
wide Hooghly River
r
(p478) to uncover 31
Pandua
Hooghly Malda 0 100 km
Jamuna
BIHAR
brew and enjoy
the fantastic views
BANGLADESH
from the historic hill
River
station of Darjeeling
Godagari
(p487)
Lalgola
5 Watch dawn Nalhati
Moregram Ga
nge To Dhaka
break over the worlds s (78km)
third-highest peak Bhagirathi Riv
es ram
ay
Murshidabad River er
from Tiger Hill
pr g
sw
Ex ore
Berhampore
(p490)
M
Sainthia
6 Admire intricate Suri
scenes from the Shantiniketan/ Palashi
Hindu epics carved Asansol Bolpur
Katwa
on the medieval Hooghly
Ilambazar
terracotta temples of Durgapur
River
Nabadwip Krishnanagar
Bishnupur (p479)
Panagarh
7 Cruise the river Bankura
Shantipur
Ranaghat Jessore
channels of the Burdwan NH2
Bangoan
Sunderbans (p476) Bishnupur Benapole
Kalyani
through the worlds Bansberia
most extensive Arambagh Chandarnagor Bandel/Chinsurah
34
mangrove forest, Tarakeswar Mahesh
Serampore Barrackpore
to spot darting Basirhat
Howrah
kingfishers, spotted KOLKATA
deer and the elusive Kolaghat
NH6 (CALCUTTA)
Royal Bengal tiger Midnapore
Canning
NH41 Diamond Sonakhali
Grand Kharagpur Harbour Pakhirala
d
Trunk R Nandakumar Gosaba Sajnekhali
(Tamluk) Haldia
Jatar
Hardwood Point Daul
Sunderbans
Kakdwip Tiger Reserve
Namkhana
Contai
ODISHA Digha Sagar Bakkali
Island
Mandarmani Mouths of the Ganges
History Most land arrivals are by train: main lines run
Referred to as Vanga in the Mahabharata, south to Bhubaneswar and Chennai (Madras), 477
this region has a long history predating the and west to Gaya, Varanasi and Delhi. Other lines
Aryan invasions of India. It was part of the connect the state to Assam in the northeast and
Mauryan empire in the 3rd century BC before Jharkhand in the southwest. Numerous long-
distance buses also connect surrounding states.
being overrun by the Guptas. For three cen-
turies from around the 9th century AD, the Overcrowded share jeeps ply the winding
Buddhist Pala dynasty controlled a large area roads of the West Bengal hills. Try to avoid the
cramped back seats.
based in Bengal and including parts of Odisha
(Orissa), Bihar and modern Bangladesh.
Bengal was brought under Muslim con-
trol by Qutb-ud-din, first of the sultans of SOUTH OF KOLKATA
Delhi, at the end of the 12th century. Follow-
ing the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, Bengal
became an independent Islamic state. Sunderbans Tiger Reserve
The British East India Company estab-
Home to one of the largest concentrations of
lished a trading post in Kolkata (Calcutta)
tigers on the planet, this 2585 sq km reserve
in 1698, which quickly prospered. Sensing
(Indian/foreigner 15/150) is a network of chan-
rich pickings, Siraj-ud-daula, the nawab of
Bengal, came down from his capital at Mur- nels and semi-submerged mangroves that
shidabad and easily took Kolkata in 1756. forms the worlds largest river delta. Royal
SOUTHBENGAL
WEST
Robert Clive defeated him the following year Bengal tigers (ocially estimated to number
at the Battle of Plassey, helped by the treach- close to 300) lurk in the impenetrable depths
ery of Siraj-ud-daulas uncle, Mir Jafar, who of the mangrove forests, and also swim the
deltas innumerable channels. Although
OF KOLK
commanded the greater part of the nawabs
army. Jafar succeeded his nephew as nawab they do sometimes kill villagers working in
but his reward was short-lived; after the the Sunderbans, tigers are typically shy and
sightings are rare. Nevertheless, cruising
&ATA
Battle of Buxar in 1764 the British took full
the broad waterways through the worlds
DARJEELING
control of Bengal.
West Bengal was the cradle of the Indian biggest mangrove sanctuary (now a Unesco
TO U R S
Renaissance and national freedom move- World Heritage Site) and watching wildlife,
ment, and has long been considered the whether it be a spotted deer, 2m-long water
countrys cultural heartland. In 1947 Indian monitor or luminescent kingfisher, is a world
independence from Britain, and the sub- away from Kolkatas chaos.
TO
S
sequent partition of the country, saw the The best time to visit the reserve is be-
UU
tween October and March. Organised tours
NR
state of Bengal divided on religious grounds,
D SE R B A N S T I G E R R E S E R V E
causing the upheaval of millions of Bengalis. (see p477) are the best way to navigate this
tricky and harsh landscape, not least because
2 Activities all your permits, paperwork, guiding duties
TREKKING and logistical problems are taken care of. In
While pleasant walks along pine-scented fact, travelling alone is not recommended.
trails are possible in all of West Bengals At Sajnekhali, the ocial gateway into the
hill stations, the most popular place for a reserve, youll find the Mangrove Interpre-
multiday trek is Singalila Ridge (p498), near tation Centre (h8.30am-5pm) with a small
Darjeeling, where teahouse-style trekking is turtle and crocodile hatchery, a collection of
possible. Camping treks are possible else- pickled wildlife and a blackboard with the
where, including around Kalimpong. date of the last tiger-spotting chalked up.
RAFTING
White-water rafting trips should resume T Tours
soon on the mighty Teesta and Rangeet Tour prices vary widely. They typically include
Rivers, easily arranged and accessed from return transport from Kolkata, as well as all
Darjeeling (see p492). the fees, but do check what is and isnt in-
cluded. West Bengal Tourism (p469) orga-
8 Getting There & Around nises weekly boat cruises from September to
The vast majority who enter West Bengal arrive April, costing from 2300 per person for one
in Kolkata. Siliguris Bagdogra airport has ser- night and two half-days, including food and
vices to Bangkok, Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati, on-board accommodation. Trips that include
as well as daily helicopter flights to Gangtok. a worthwhile extra day start from 3100.
Backpackers WILDLIFE WATCHING held here, near the Kapil Muni Temple, hon-
478 (%9836177140; www.tourdesundarbans.com; ouring the legend. The best way to see the
11 Tottee Lane, Kolkata) An extremely pro- festival is the two-day, one-night boat tour
fessional and knowledgeable outfit that operated from Kolkata by West Bengal Tour-
conducts highly recommended tours of the ism (p469), with accommodation on board
jungles, including birdwatching and lo- (per person deck/berth 3950/6500). The
cal music sessions. All-inclusive prices are island hibernates for the rest of the year.
4000/4500 per person for one-/two-night
trips, give or take a few hundred depending
on the number of people in your group. Mandarmani
Sunderban Tiger Camp WILDLIFE WATCHING % 03220
(%9331092632; www.sunderbantigercamp.com; About 180km south of Kolkata, Mandar-
71 Ganesh Chandra Avenue, Kolkata; 1/2 nights per mani is a sleepy fishing village that sports a
person from 3250/4930; a) Provides expert heavenly beach stretching nearly 15km. It re-
guides and quality accommodation (on mains one of the more unpolluted beaches in
dry land). the country, and supports countless colonies
Help Tourism WILDLIFE WATCHING of sand bubbler crabs. The beaches see some
(%033-24550917; www.helptourism.com; 67A additional action at dawn, when fishing
Kali Temple Rd, Kalighat, Kolkata; 1/2 nights for 2 boats drop anchor and disgorge their catch-
people all-inclusive 22100/27600) Prices come es of marine goodies.
Sana Beach (%9007725066; www.thesana
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING N O R T H O F KO L K ATA
NORTHBENGAL
WEST
Bishnupur 3pm Mon-Fri), on the same road, has an ATM
% 03244 / POP 61,943
and changes foreign currency.
Known for its beautiful terracotta temples, Spread throughout the leafy university
grounds are eclectic statues, the celebrated
OF KOLK
Bishnupur flourished as the capital of the
Malla kings from the 16th to the early 19th Shantiniketan Murals and the Tagore
centuries. The architecture of these intriguing Prayer Hall. The museum and art gallery
(adult/student 5/3; h10.30am-1pm & 2-4.30pm
& ATA
temples (Indian/foreigner 10/250; hdawn-dusk)
Thu-Mon, 10.30am-1pm Tue) within the Utta-
DARJEELING
is a bold mix of Bengali, Islamic and Orissan
styles. Intricately detailed facades of numer- rayan complex (Tagores former home) are
S L E E P I N GB
ous temples play out scenes of the Hindu worth a peek if you are a Tagore aficionado.
epics, the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The Reproductions of his sketches and paintings
are sold here. The Subarnarekha bookshop
most striking structures include the Jor Ban-
near the post oce has plenty of Tagores
gla, Madan Mohan Temple, the multi-arched
S&LI SEEHEAT
titles (80 to 250) in English.
Ras Mancha and the elaborate Shyam Rai
Temple. You need to pay for your ticket at Ras
Mancha and show it at the other temples. Cy-
4 Sleeping & Eating N
P IUINNPGG
cle-rickshaw-wallahs oer tours (the best way Shantiniketan Tourist Lodge HOTEL $$
U&
farmers are sensitised to use them as an alternative to using genetically modified strains.
Visitors to the farm are assumed to be interested in the work and the local culture. Ac-
commodation is basic, with limited (solar) power, and all water needs to be pumped from
the well. The all-veg food is mostly grown on the farm.
A similar approach to nature and life is taken at Babli (%03463-271285; www.babli-farm
.tripod.com; per person from 650), a farm near Shantiniketan that busies itself with conser-
vation of forests, flora and fauna, while promoting rural empowerment. Those interested
in learning more can spend a quiet day on their sylvan campus and be treated like family.
Accommodation is in huts and cottages, and theres great veg food at the canteen.
Camellia has a pleasant country setting about paiguri, take the 9.40am Kanchenjunga Express
2km from the university, with leafy gardens 5657 (sleeper/3AC 187/496, eight hours).
and green lawns. Tasteful art and furniture Theres a train booking oce (Santiniketan
make the rooms especially comfortable; the Rd; h8am-noon, 12.30-2pm Thu-Tue) near the
suites have a fridge and bathtub. Pick-up post oce.
from the train station is available. The Jambuni bus stand is in Bolpur. Buses
go to Berhampore/Murshidabad (70, four
hours) and Bishnupur (70, four hours) but
oAlcha CAF $
direct buses can be hard to find: you may need
(Ratanpalli; mains 50-80; h7.30am-10am, noon- to change in Durgapur for Bishnupur and Suri for
2pm & 4-8pm) This lovely cafe on one edge of the Berhampore.
university campus is a melting pot for writers,
artists, poets, musicians and free-thinking
students nursing million-dollar ideas in their Nabadwip & Mayapur
fertile minds. Its got a cool shack-style seating % 03472 / POP 115,036
space that often doubles as an art gallery, and Nabadwip, 114km north of Kolkata, is an
theres a boutique adjoining the eatery that important Krishna pilgrimage centre, at-
sells a fantastic selection of jewellery, textiles tracting throngs of devotees, and is also
and handicrafts made by local artisans. Oh, an ancient centre of Sanskrit culture. The
and the parathas are sinful. last Hindu king of Bengal, Lakshman Sen,
moved his capital here from Gaur.
8 Getting There & Away Across the river from Nabadwip, Mayapur
Several trains ply between Bolpur station, 2km is a centre for the Iskcon (Hare Krishna)
south of the university, and Kolkata daily. The movement. Theres a large, colourful tem-
best is Shantiniketan Express (2nd class/chair ple and the basic but clean Iskcon Guest
70/232, 2 hours) departing at 10.10am from Houses (%245620; mghb@pamho.net; d/tr/q
Howrah and 1.10pm from Bolpur. For New Jal- from 300/350/450). Iskcon runs a private bus
to Kolkata (200, five hours) early on Friday, 8 Getting There & Around
Saturday and Sunday mornings, returning in The Bhagirathi Express (2nd class/chair 481
the evening; for details or to make a booking 69/264, four hours) departs Kolkatas Sealdah
call Iskcon Kolkata (%033-32488041). station at 6.25pm, and departs from Berham-
pore at 6.34am. Regular buses leave for Kolkata
(95, six hours) and Malda (70, four hours). To
Murshidabad & Shantiniketan/Bolpur (70, four hours) there
are occasional direct buses but you may need to
Berhampore change in Suri.
% 03482 / POP 36,894
Shared autorickshaws (20) whiz between
In Murshidabad, rural Bengali life and 18th- Murshidabad and Berhampore. Cycle-rickshaws/
century architecture meld on the verdant taxis oer guided half-day tours to see the
shores of the Bhagirathi River. When Siraj- spread-out sites for 200/500.
ud-daula was nawab of Bengal, Murshidabad
was his capital, and he was assassinated here
after the defeat at Plassey (now Palashi). Malda
The main draw here is the Hazarduari % 03512 / POP 161,448
(Indian/foreigner 5/100; h10am-4.30pm Sat- Malda, 340km north of Kolkata, is a conve-
Thu), a palace famous for its 1000 doors (real nient base for visiting the ruins of Bengals
and false), built here for the nawabs in 1837. former capitals in nearby Gaur and Pandua.
It houses an astonishing collection of an- Malda is also famed for its mangoes ripen-
tiquities from the 18th and 19th centuries.
NORTHBENGAL
WEST
ing in spring; even if its not mango season,
Other beautiful structures in the complex youll probably get mango pickle on the side
include the Nizamat Imambara, the clock with any food you order here.
tower, the Wasef Manzil, a former regal State Bank of India and ICICI ATMs are
OF KOLK
residence, and the elegant Madina Mosque. on the highway, near the turn-o to the bus
Murshid Quli Khan, who moved the station. i-Zone (per hr 20; h10am-7pm), be-
capital here in 1700, is buried beneath the hind the bus station on the way to Malda
& ATA
stairs at the impressive ruins of the Katra Museum, has fast internet connections.
DARJEELING
Mosque. Siraj-ud-daula was assassinated Hotel Kalinga (%283567; www.hotelkalinga
at the Nimak Haram Deori (Traitors Gate).
S L E E P I N GM
malda.net; NH34, Ram Krishna Pally; d without/
Within the Kathgola Gardens (admission with AC 500/1000; a) is a big place on the
7; h6.30am-5.30pm) is an interesting fam- highway, about halfway between the bus
ily mansion of a Jain trading family, dating and train stations. The AC rooms are fine,
S&LUEEREAT
back to 1873. but the cheaper ones are slightly grubby.
Berhampore is 15km south of Murshidabad The rooftop multicuisine restaurant (mains
SPHIIN
and acts as its bus and railway hub. 100) has good food and great views. INDGGA &
Malda Tourist Lodge (%220911; Rathbari
4 Sleeping & Eating More; d without/with AC 525/1050; a) is a state-
B AEDAT&I NBGE R H A M P O R E
Mohammed. The adjacent tomb of Fateh (%2514102; Hill Cart Rd; s/d without bathroom
Khan (1707) startlingly informs you that its 200/350, s/d/tr with bathroom 332/500/611)
occupant vomited blood and died on this Tucked away behind the more visible Hotel
spot. Remnants of colourful enamel cling to Conclave, this central lodge is the best budget
the Chamkan Mosque and the Gumti Gate option, with clean, quiet and high-ceilinged
nearby. rooms with TV and hot water bathrooms.
In Pandua (30km north of Malda) are the Hotel Sinclairs HOTEL $$$
vast ruins of the 14th-century Adina Masjid, (%2517674; www.sinclairshotels.com; o NH31;
once Indias largest mosque. Within a sec- d from 3800; asW) This comfortable three-
tion of arched and domed bays sits the tomb star hotel escapes the noise of Hill Cart Rd,
of Sikander Shah (r 136479), the builder of 1km north of the bus terminal. The rooms are
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
this mosque. About 2km away is the Ekla- spacious and theres an excellent restaurant-
khi Mausoleum, so called because it cost 1 cum-bar and the chance to dive into a cool,
lakh (100,000) to build. clean pool.
The monuments are spread throughout
Gaur and Pandua along some of the worst Cindrella Hotel HOTEL $$$
roads in India; its worth hiring a taxi from (%2544130; 3rd Mile, Sevoke Rd; www.cindrella-
Malda for half a day (1200). hotels.com; s/d incl breakfast from 3600/4000;
aWs) The top place in town oers com-
fortable rather than luxurious rooms, with
WEST BENGAL HILLS a bar, small gym and pool (closed Nov-Feb),
grassy lawns, and free wi-fi throughout. Its
3km northeast of the centre.
Hotel Himalayan Regency HOTEL $$
Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri (%6502955; Hill Cart Rd; s/d from 500/600,
% 0353 / POP 656,000 / ELEV 120M
with AC from 1200; a) Comfortable rooms
The crowded and noisy transport hub en- with big clean bathrooms. Thought has
compassing the twin towns of Siliguri and gone into the design and colour scheme,
New Jalpaiguri (NJP) is the jumping-o though apparently by someone suffering
point for Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Sikkim, from an extreme form of colour blindness.
the northeast states, eastern Nepal and Bhu-
tan. Theres little to see here: for most travel- Hotel Mount View HOTEL $
lers, Siliguri is an overnight transit point to (%2512919; Hill Cart Rd; d from 500) Under
cooler climes. renovation after a change of owner at the
Most of Siliguris hotels, restaurants and time of research, but worth a look; located
services are spread along Tenzing Norgay next to Khana Khazana restaurant.
Rd, better known as Hill Cart Rd. NJP Sta-
tion Rd leads southward to NJP station, 5 Eating
while branching northeastward o Hill Cart oKhana Khazana MULTICUISINE $
Rd are Siliguris other main streets, Sevoke (Hill Cart Rd; mains 60-120) The secluded out-
and Bidhan Rds, the latter hiding the citys door area here oers merciful relief from the
most interesting bazaars. chaos outside. The extensive menu ranges
from Chinese and South Indian specials to
4 Sleeping Mumbai street snacks, and includes plenty
Hotel Conclave HOTEL $$ of vegetarian options. Our mildly-spiced
(%2516144; www.hotelconclave.com; Hill Cart Rd; chicken mumtaz was so good we ordered it
s/d from 750/900; a) Unhelpful sta cant three times.
Sartaj INDIAN $$ flights to Delhi are direct, while others go via
(Hill Cart Rd; mains 70-140; a) A sophisticat- Guwahati. 483
ed and cool (literally the AC is heaven) Air India (%2511495; www.airindia.in; Hill Cart
bar-restaurant with a huge range: first-rate Rd; h10am-1pm & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Five
North Indian tandooris and curries, good weekly to Kolkata and Delhi, three to Guwahati.
Continental options and top-notch service. Go Air (%1800 222111; www.goair.in) Daily to
Delhi, three weekly to Guwahati.
8 Information Jet Airways (%2538001; www.jetairways.com;
Internet Access Hill Cart Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Daily to
iWay (Hill Cart Rd; per hr 40; h9am-9pm) A Kolkata and Delhi, four weekly to Guwahati.
tangerine dream, with bright-orange interior. Kingfisher Airlines (%1800 2093030; www
Its half-hidden behind a shop, 1km southeast .flykingfisher.com) Daily to Kolkata and Delhi,
of the bus terminal. three weekly to Guwahati.
Spice Jet (%1800 1803333; www.spicejet
Medical Services
.com) Daily to Kolkata (direct) and Delhi (some
Sadar Hospital (%2436526; Hospital Rd) direct, some via Guwahati/Kolkata).
Money Five-seater helicopters (2200, 30 minutes,
Bagdogra Airport has a money changer with 10kg luggage limit) travel daily from Bagdogra
decent rates but a fairly high commission. to Gangtok at 2.30pm in good weather. You need
Delhi Hotel (Hill Cart Rd; h9am-7pm) Currency to book by phone through Sikkim Tourism De-
and travellers cheques exchanged, opposite the velopment Corporation (% 03592-203960; see
bus station; 25 tax per transaction. p535) in Gangtok.
& DARJEELING
Sikkim Tourist Office (SNT Terminal, Hill Cart NBSTC buses include frequent buses to Malda
Rd; h10am-5pm) Issues permits for Sikkim on (120, 6 hours) and Madarihat (see p 484),
S 8
the spot. Bring copies of your passport, visa plus a daily service to Kolkata (266, 7pm).
and one passport-sized photo. Assam State Transportation Corporation runs a
West Bengal Tourist Office (%2511974; daily 4pm bus to Guwahati (353, 12 hours).
www.westbengaltourism.gov.in; Hill Cart Rd; For Patna (275, 12 hours, departs 6pm) try
h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Can book accommoda-
Gupta Travels, just outside the bus station.
8 I L I G U R I & N E W J A L PA I G U R I
S
tion for Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary, includ- Deluxe Volvo buses for Kolkata (900, 11 hours)
ing forestry lodges. Less helpful information leave around 7pm from this and many other
desks are at Bagdogra Airport and NJP train
agencies.
station.
Sikkim Nationalised Transport (SNT) buses to
Travel Agencies Gangtok (115-210, 4 hours) leave at 7.30am,
Private transport booking agencies line Hill 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm from the SNT
Cart Rd. terminal (Hill Cart Rd), 250m south of the bus
Help Tourism (% 2433683; www.helptourism terminal. The 11.30am departure is normally air-
.com, www.helptourism.net; 143 Hill Cart Rd; con (220). Arrange your permit in advance at
s) A recommended agency with a strong the Sikkim Tourist Oce next door (p 483).
environmental and community-development
focus, including voluntourism. It has links to Jeep
homestays and lodges around the hills, and A faster and more comfortable way of getting
its tour and trekking packages get rave around the hills is by share jeep. There are
reviews. a number of jeep stands lining Hill Cart Rd:
Tourist Service Agency (%2531959; tsaslg@ for Darjeeling (90, three hours), Kurseong
sanchar net.in; Pradhan Nagar Rd) Can book (50, 1 hours) or Mirik (60, 2 hours), look
Jaldaphara accommodation, including around opposite the bus terminal or outside
forest lodges. Its close to the Delhi Hotel. the Conclave Hotel; for Kalimpong (80, 2
hours) theres a stand on Sevoke Rd (take an
autoricksaw); and for Gangtok (140, four
8 Getting There & Away hours) jeeps leave from next to the SNT terminal
Air until around 2pm. Share and charter jeeps for all
Bagdogra Airport is 12km west of Siliguri. Check these destinations also leave straight from NJP
websites for fares, which vary widely. Some train station.
Chartering a jeep privately costs roughly 10 North East Express 2506 For Guwahati
484 times that of a shared ticket. An option for XL- (sleeper/3AC 228/569, eight hours, departs
sized Westerners is to pay for and occupy the 8.40am).
front three seats next to the driver. TOY TRAIN The diesel toy train climbs the
A prepaid taxi stand at Bagdogra Airport 88km from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling in eight
oers fixed fares to Darjeeling (1375-1475), long hours (2nd/1st class 42/247, departs
Mirik (880), Kakarbhitta (400) and even 9am). Its wise to make reservations two to three
Bhadrapur in Nepal (835), thus bypassing days in advance. Its also possible to board the
Siliguri completely. Its not dicult to find other train at Siliguri Jct station, which is just behind
people to share the cost. the Tenzing Norgay Bus Terminal on Hill Cart Rd.
The line was under repair in 2011 after a series of
Train landslides but should reopen soon.
Theres a train booking oce (%2537333; cnr If steam is your passion, catch the steam
Hospital & Bidhan Rds; h8-11am, 11.30am-2pm version to Darjeeling from Kurseong (p 487 ).
& 2.15-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) in Siliguri.
Darjeeling Mail 2344 The fastest of the 8 Getting Around
four daily services to Kolkata (sleeper/3AC From the bus terminal to NJP train station a
264/695, 10 hours, departs 8pm), via Malda. taxi/autorickshaw costs 200/90, while cycle-
Haldibari Koaa SF Express 2364 A better option rickshaws charge 50 for the 35-minute trip.
for Malda (2nd class/chair 108/343, 3 Taxis/autorickshaws between Bagdogra Airport
hours, departing 9.55am Wednesday, Friday and Siliguri cost 350/200.
and Saturday).
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
To/From Bangladesh
A number of private agencies in Siliguri, including Shyamoli (%9932628243; Hotel Central
Plaza complex, Hill Cart Rd) run a daily AC bus direct to Dhaka (800, 16 hours), departing
at 1.30pm. Youll need to complete border formalities at Chengrabandha.
Regular buses go from the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminal to Chengrabandha
(42) starting from 7.30am. The border post is open from 8am to 6pm daily. From near the
border post you can catch buses on to Rangpur, Bogra and Dhaka. Visas for Bangladesh
can be obtained in Kolkata and New Delhi (see p1176).
To/From Bhutan
Bhutan Transport Services run three daily buses from just outside the central bus ter-
minal to Phuentsholing (75, departs 7.15am, noon and 2pm), and there are many more
local buses to Jaigaon on the Indian side of the border, where you clear Indian immigra-
tion. Non-Indian nationals need visa clearance from a Bhutanese tour operator to enter
Bhutan. See www.tourism.gov.bt and Lonely Planets Bhutan for details.
To/From Nepal
For Nepal, local buses pass the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminal every 15 minutes
for the border town of Panitanki (20, one hour). Share jeeps to Kakarbhitta (70) are
readily available in Siliguri. The Indian border post in Panitanki is ocially open 24 hours
and the Nepali post in Kakarbhitta is open from 7am to 7pm. Onward from Kakarbhitta
there are numerous buses to Kathmandu (17 hours) and other destinations. Bhadrapur
Airport, 23km southwest of Kakarbhitta, has regular flights to Kathmandu (US$147) on
Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com), Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) or Agni Air (www.
agniair.com). Visas for Nepal can be obtained at the border (bring two passport photos),
in Kolkata or New Delhi (see p1177).
hmid-Sepmid-Jun) protects 114 sq km of rooms in wooden and concrete blocks or in
lush forests and grasslands along the Torsa new cottages. All meals are included in the 485
River and is a refuge for over 50 Indian one- room rates, so singles get a 25% discount.
horned rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis).
The best time to visit is mid-October to Hotel Relax HOTEL $
May, particularly March and April when wild (%262304; Madarihat; d 500) The Relax is the
elephants, deer and tigers (rarely seen) are at- best private option, opposite the Jaldhapara
tracted by new grass growth. Your best chance Tourist Lodge, but is still quite simple, with
of spotting a rhino is on an elephant ride (In- private bathrooms (hot water in buckets 10)
dian/foreigner 200/600 per hr; h5-8am), though and thundering road noise. Deluxe rooms
these lumbering safaris are often booked out were under construction at time of research.
by the tourist lodges. Even if you are staying Simple set meals are available for 50.
at Jaldaphara Tourist Lodge for a night you
are not guaranteed a ride, as full occupancy 8 Getting There & Away
is double that of their daily elephant quota. Jaldhapara is 124km east of Siliguri. Local
Jeep safaris (4/8 passengers 1860/2260, buses run every hour or so between Siliguri and
40% less for Indians) operate in the early Madarihat (66, four hours). There are also
morning and afternoon and stop at viewing daily mail trains (unreserved seat 38, three to
platforms, but again these can be hard to four hours), leaving Siliguri at 6am and 5.35pm,
arrange unless you are on a tour. returning from Madarihat at 7am and 1.30pm.
The West Bengal tourist oces in Kolkata From Madarihat to the park headquarters at
& DARJEELING
(%9735028733; easthimalayan3@yahoo.com) and Nestled near the Nepal border, halfway
Hotel Relax can often book accommodation between Siliguri and Darjeeling, the low-
S S L E E P I N GM
and elephant rides when no-one else can and profile hill station of Mirik is surrounded
is probably your best option for a DIY trip. by an undulating carpet of tea estates,
Budget travellers should bear in mind that orange orchards, cardamom plantations
an hour-long elephant ride is probably go- and forests of tall, dark Japanese cedars. It
S LI&R
ing to end up costing a minimum US$40 per has a quiet lakeside charm and relaxed vibe
E EI KP
person, after all costs are added in. that make it quite dierent from Darjeeling
Bring mosquito repellent. or Kalimpong. ATI NI N
G G& E AT I N G
panelled upstairs doubles with cute sloping toy trains of the Darjeeling Himalayan
ceilings. Some rooms have balconies and Railway.
views of Sumendu Lake; all have TV and Hill Cart Rd (Tenzing Norgay Rd) the noisy,
geyser. The pleasant garden restaurant shop-lined main thoroughfare from Siliguri
(mains 30 to 180) out back oers such exotic to Darjeeling and its remarkably close
fare as lasagne and sizzlers. shadow, the railway line, wind through town.
Hotel Jagjeet HOTEL $$
There are numerous good walks in the area,
(%2243231; www.jagjeethotel.com; d 1300-2400)
including one to Eagles Crag (2km return)
The best hotel in town has a wide variety of that aords splendid views down the Teesta
rooms. The super-deluxe options (1800) Valley and the steamy plains to the south.
come with balconies, while the luxury rooms Makaibari TEA ESTATE
(2400) are surprisingly sleek and stylish. (%2330181; Pankhabari Rd; www.makaibari.com;
The cheapest rooms are in the basement. hTue-Sat) Anyone interested in tea should
The restaurant-bar (mains 100 to 175) visit this organic and biodynamic tea estate.
is easily the best in town, serving really The factory is open to visitors and in be-
excellent thalis. Toothsome sweets, includ- tween the huge sorting and drying machines
ing barfi (fudge-like sweet), are sold at a and the fields of green bushes you may just
separate counter. run into the owner, local tea guru Rajah Ba-
nerjee. Mornings are the best time to see the
Lodge Ashirvad GUESTHOUSE $
production process.
(%2243272; s 200, d 350-450) A friendly,
The estate is 4km below Kurseong along
family-run budget hotel down a lane just o
Pankhabari Rd, and 1km below Cochrane
the main road. The rooms are simple with
Place. A taxi here costs 100 to 150, or
very thin, but clean, mattresses. Only the its a pleasant downhill walk (its much
priciest rooms have geysers; a bucket of hot steeper coming back so take a shared taxi
water costs 15. from Cochrane Place). En route, the lushly
Lohit Sagar Restaurant INDIAN $ overgrown old graveyard at St Andrews has
(mains 30-80; hbreakfast & lunch) Beside the poignant reminders of the tea-planter era.
taxi stand, and near the lake, is this pure-veg Makaibari also runs a homestay and vol-
cafeteria-type place catering to lakeside day unteer program (www.volmakaibari.org; see
trippers, with good snacks and South Indian p41) and oers courses for tea professionals.
favourites.
4 Sleeping & Eating
8 Information oCochrane Place BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
Ashirvard Lodge has an attached internet cafe (%2330703; www.imperialchai.com; 132 Pankhabari
(per hr 30). There are no money-changing Rd; s/d from 2250/2650; i) With 360-degree
views over tea plantations, distant Himalayan are dry, panoramas are clear and tempera-
peaks and the twinkling lights of Siliguri, tures are pleasant. Tourist attractions and 487
this quirky, charming boutique hotel is a other establishments often extend their
destination in its own right. The 31 rooms hours during these periods (specified as high
are individually decorated with divans and season in the following reviews), although
antiques and have either a view or a balcony. they are not set in stone so check ahead.
Delicious meals and tea tastings are avail- Darjeeling sprawls over a west-facing
able, making it a good lunch stop if you have slope in a confusing web of interconnect-
your own transport. The hotel is wheelchair- ing roads and steep flights of steps. The two
friendly, can provide Bagdogra Airport and main squares are Chowrasta, near the top
NJP train station pick-up and oers guided of town, and Clubside junction, which are
village and tea estate walks, as well as linked by pedestrianised Nehru Rd (aka the
massage and beauty treatments. Mall), the main shopping street. Hill Cart Rd
(aka Tenzing Norgay Rd) runs the length of
Kurseong Tourist Lodge HOTEL $$
the bustling lower bazaar and is Darjeelings
(%2345608; Hill Cart Rd; d 1200-1500) This old- major vehicle thoroughfare.
fashioned, government-run lodge has inviting
wood-lined rooms that feature valley views. History
The toy train whistles past the popular cafe, This area belonged to the Buddhist chogyals
where you can snack on momos (Tibetan (kings) of Sikkim until 1780, when it was an-
dumplings), or you can enjoy a meal at its nexed by the invading Gurkhas from Nepal.
& DARJEELING
3 to four hours) and Mirik (80, 2 hours). and passed word to Kolkata (Calcutta) that
it would be a perfect site for a sanatorium;
S 8
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railways steam toy
train to Darjeeling (9D; 2nd/1st class 22/144, they were sure to have also mentioned its
three hours) leaves at 3pm, while the diesel ver- strategic military importance in the region.
sion (1D; originating at New Jalpaiguri) departs The chogyal of Sikkim (still grateful for
around 1.35pm. A diesel train (originating in Dar- the return of his kingdom) happily agreed
8 RJEELING
DA
jeeling) to Siliguri (2D; 2nd/1st class 44/247, to lease the uninhabited land to the East
four hours) departs at 12.05pm. India Company for the annual fee of 3000.
In 1835 the hill station of Darjeeling (Dorje
Ling) was born and the first tea bushes were
Darjeeling planted that same year.
% 0354 / POP 109,160 / ELEV 2135M Forest gradually made way for colonial
Spread in ribbons over a steep mountain houses and tea plantations, and by 1857 the
ridge, surrounded by emerald-green tea population of Darjeeling reached 10,000,
plantations and with a backdrop of jagged mainly because of a massive influx of
white Himalayan peaks floating over distant Gurkha labourers from Nepal.
clouds, the archetypal hill station of Darjeel- After Independence, the Gurkhas became
ing is rightly West Bengals premier attrac- the main political force in Darjeeling and
tion. When you arent gazing at Khangchen- friction with the state government led to
dzonga (8598m), you can explore colonial- calls for a separate state of Gorkhaland in the
era buildings, visit Buddhist monasteries 1980s. In 1986, violence and riots orchestrat-
and spot snow leopards and red pandas at ed by the Gurkha National Liberation Front
the nearby zoo. The steep narrow streets (GNLF) brought Darjeeling to a standstill,
bustle with an array of Himalayan faces leading to the Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Coun-
from Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal and Tibet and cil (DGHC) being given a large measure of
when energies start to flag a good, steaming autonomy from the state government.
Darjeeling brew is never far away. Calls for full secession have continued,
Most tourists visit after the monsoon and in 2007 the political party Gorkha
(October and November) and during spring Janmukti Morcha (GJM), headed by Bimal
(mid-March to the end of May) when skies Gurung, was formed out of the GNLF. It has
488 Darjeeling e
# 00 200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
To Happy Valley Tea Estate (1km); To Mayfair
To Observatory
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Hotel (200m) 1 Hill (100m)
Zoological Park & Himalayan
#
Hi
Mountaineering Institute; Jorethang
ll C
666 66
1 1
B is
i
art (Ten z i n
ra n
Jaw
ho
15
Sa
Er
#
a ha
ic Be
ta
njam
r Rd
in R
Bh anu Bhak
d
#
Wes
N 7
#
g
Bhanu
d
or 35
sR
ga y
t
Bhakta
666 66
L oc )
Da
hna Agharya
Rd
g er
CR
Statue
Rd
2
# 26
# To
#
Bhutia Busty 2
19 Gompa (1km)
# 31
Old Super #
#
#
Market Chowrasta
43
666
Complex
a Rd
Lloyd
Botanical 47 # 46
L am
Gardens 44
# #
29
HD
#
Baza
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
# 40
# 13
rgay Rd
3
# 22
#
3
r
a
Ca r t
Market Stalls
666 T e nzing No
37 #
Rd
17
# # 42
10
# 16
#
18
# 39
#
Rd
a 24
#
666
m 23
4 La 4
#
#
#
HD
Chowk
d
rket R o a Clubside 34 #
Ma Bazaar
#
33 #6
# 20
# 36
#
gh Rd 5
#
NB Sin 28 9
i r Hussain Rd
#
d
aR
Muncipality Offices
Rd
JP
Sh a r m 21 # & Clock Tower
rt
#
# #
Ca
5
Rd
# 5
# # 41
ll
30
La
Hi
Dr Zak
en
# # 27
TV Tower #
La d
# 45
4#
Rd
#
32 # 25 # #
12 # 11
Tenzing Norgay
#
38 #
#
h i Rd
14
Rd
aR
S inh d
#
nd
s
Da
Ga
SM
6 To Revolver (50m); 6
2 Dekeling Resort at
3
# Hawk's Nest (1km);
#
Train
# Japanese Peace 8 To Ghum
& DARJEELING
17 Glenary's ................................................ C3 41 Samsara Tours, Travels &
18 Hasty Tasty ............................................ C4 Treks ....................................................C5
S S I G H T S DA
19 Hot Pizza Place ...................................... C2 42 Sikkim Tourist Office .............................D3
20 Kunga's................................................... C4 43 Somewhere Over the Rainbow
Lunar Restaurant............................ (see 6) Treks & Tours ......................................C2
21 Park Restaurant..................................... C5
S I GRHJTESE L I N G
22 Shangri-La.............................................. D3 Transport
23 Sonam's Kitchen ................................... D4 44 Chowk Bazaar Bus & Jeep
Station..................................................B3
Drinking Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
Buzz................................................(see 17) (Toy Train) ................................... (see 2)
Caf Coffee Day............................(see 32) 45 Darjeeling Transport
Elgin ................................................. (see 7) Corporation .........................................B5
Glenary's ........................................(see 17) 46 Indian Airlines Office..............................D3
24 House of Tea .......................................... C4 47 Pineridge Travels ...................................D3
rise early and get to Tiger Hill (2590m), Organised sunrise trips (usually with a
11km south of Darjeeling, above Ghum. detour to Batastia Loop on the way back)
The sunrise over the Himalaya from here can be booked through a travel agency or
has become a major tourist attraction, with directly with jeep drivers at the Clubside taxi
convoys of jeeps leaving Darjeeling for Tiger stand. Its also possible to jump on a jeep
Hill every morning around 4.30am. At the going to Tiger Hill from along Gandhi or
summit, you can either pay 10 to stand in Laden La Rds between 4am and 4.30am, al-
the pavilion grounds, or buy a ticket for one lowing you to check whether skies are clear
of the heated lounges in the pavilion (20 to before you go. Return trips cost around 80
40). It can be a real bunfight, even outside per person or 600-800 for a vehicle.
of the high season, with crowds of hundreds One excellent idea is to take the jeep one
jostling for the best viewing spots. way to Tiger Hill (or back to Ghum) and
then spend the morning/day visiting the
490
KHANGCHENDZONGA VIEWS
The Himalayan skyline is a major attraction in Darjeeling. The skyline is dominated by
Khangchendzonga, Indias highest peak and the worlds third-highest mountain (until
1852 it was thought to be the worlds highest). The name Khangchendzonga is derived
from the Tibetan words for great five-peaked snow fortress. On either side of the main
massif are Kabru (7338m), Jannu (7710m) and Pandim (6691m), all serious peaks in
their own right.
Apart from popular dawn views from Tiger Hill, an early morning stroll around Bhanu
Bhakta Sarani, which runs from Chowrasta around the north side of Observatory Hill,
oers several stunning viewpoints.
monasteries of Ghum before wandering steeply downhill for five minutes from
back to Darjeeling. You can take either the Chowrasta Square, past a trinity of colourful
busy main road or the much quieter Tenzing Buddhist rock carvings. Climbing back up is
Norgay Rd, via Alu Bari, (1 hrs), which de- a 20-minute slog.
spite the lack of mountain views also makes Yiga Choling Gompa (Ghum; camera per
a nice cycling route. photo 10), the regions most famous monas-
tery, has wonderful old murals and is home to
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
& DARJEELING
(HMI; %2254087; www.hmi-darjeeling.com; admis- into the Tibetan community. See p496 for
sion incl zoo Indian/foreigner 40/100; h8.30am- details regarding Tibetan carpets.
S S I G H T S DA
4.30pm Fri-Wed) Tucked away within the The quickest way to reach the centre is to
grounds of the zoo, this prestigious moun- walk downhill from the north side of Bhanu
taineering institute was founded in 1954 and Bhakta Sarani; take the alley down beside
has provided training for some of Indias the Hotel Dolphin. The 20-minute walk re-
S I GRHJTESE L I N G
leading mountaineers. Within the complex quires a steep climb back. A chartered taxi
is the fascinating Everest Museum, with via North Point costs around 300 return.
Splash Out Accommodation doesnt get any more exclusive than top-end Glenburn
(www.glenburnteaestate.com; s/d 11,000/14,000), between Darjeeling and Kurseong, a
working tea estate/resort that boasts five sta for every guest. A stay at Glenburn is
rumoured to have given director Wes Anderson inspiration for his film The Darjeeling
Limited.
& DARJEELING
February, which include climbing, jungle Rd West; s/d full board from 7300/9400; i) This
survival and canoeing, for those aged
S C O U R S E SDA
quaint, rambling relic of the Raj on Observa-
between 18 and 30. There are also 28-day tory Hill oers Darjeelings most atmospheric
basic and advanced mountaineering courses digs. The charming superior room block was
(Indian/foreigner 4000/US$650), from once a boarding house for British tea plant-
March to May and September to December. ers, and the well-tended grounds are spa-
C O RUJRESEELSI N G
Some courses are women only. Foreigners cious with lots of pleasant seating areas. The
should apply directly to the centre at least comfortable rooms, fireplaces and hot water
three months in advance. bottles oer just the right measures of com-
fort and fustiness; a bit like staying at a rich
T Tours aunts house. Its a particularly great place to
During the high season the DGHC and spend Christmas. Keep your eyes peeled for
other travel agencies oer a variety of tours the Jan Morris poem in the tearoom.
around Darjeeling, usually including the
zoo, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Hotel Aliment HOTEL $
Park Restaurant INDIAN/THAI $$ (Nehru Rd; mains 30-80, thali 80) Theres noth-
(%2255270; 41 Laden La Rd; mains 70-140) The ing fancy at this vegetarian self-service can-
intimate Park is deservedly very popular for teen, but the open kitchen churns out good
its tasty North Indian curries and surpris- South Indian dosas and several types of veg
& DARJEELING
has massive windows and good views or-
high season) This elegant restaurant atop the der your tea, select a cake, grab your book
S D R I N K I N GDA
famous bakery and cafe receives mainly rave and sink into some wicker. Its a great place
reviews: of note are the Continental sizzlers, to grab breakfast.
Chinese dishes, tandoori specials and veg
gratin (good if youre o spicy food). Weve Caf Coffee Day CAFE
heard a few grumbles that its coasting on its (h8am-8pm; coee from 40) Its almost heresy
DRR
reputation, but most people love it. to drink espresso in Darjeeling but if the caf-
I NJKE IENLGI N G
feine calls you, this reliable chain has two
Hot Pizza Place ITALIAN $ locations, one at the Rink Mall, the other at
(HD Lama Rd; pizza 90-150) A cramped but Chowrastra, both with good coee.
sociable one-table pizza joint with excel-
lent pizza, pasta, paninis and salads. Come House of Tea TEAHOUSE
here also for breakfast, pancakes and good (Nehru Rd; tea 25-40; h9.15am-8pm) Sit and
coee, as well as that hard-to-find sausage fix. sip a range of brewed teas from several
Service is friendly but slow. local Goodricke estates before purchasing a
package of your favourite leaves.
Shangri-La INDIAN $$
(Nehru Rd; mains 75-180) This classy modern Sunset Lounge TEAHOUSE
bar-restaurant near the top of the Mall oers (20 Chowrastra Square; cup of tea 20-75; h9am-
an upmarket version of the usual Indian/ 8pm; W) This tearoom run by Nathmulls Tea
Chinese/Continental food mix in stylish oers aficionados a range of teas by the cup,
surrounds, with sleek wooden floors, clean with baked treats, fine valley views and wi-fi.
tablecloths and friendly service. There are
Bars
also a couple of stylish hotel rooms upstairs
The top-end hotels all have bars; the Winda-
(d 2750).
mere is the most atmospheric place to kick
Kungas TIBETAN $ back with an early evening G&T (200).
(51 Gandhi Rd; mains 60-90) Kungas is a cosy
Joeys Pub PUB
wood-panelled place run by a friendly Ti-
(SM Das Rd; beer 120; h11am-10pm) If your
betan family, strong on noodles and momos,
preferred beverage comes in a pint not a pot,
with excellent juice and fruit museli curd.
this long-standing pub near the post oce Oxford Book
496 is a great place to strike up conversations & Stationery Company BOOKS
with other travellers. It has sports on TV, (Chowrasta; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, daily high
cold beer and Hot Toddys in the winter. Its season) The best bookshop in Darjeeling,
generally very friendly, though lone women selling a good selection of novels and Hi-
have experienced some not entirely good- malayan-related titles. They mail worldwide.
natured teasing from sta.
Trek Mate CLOTHING
Buzz PUB
(sleeping bag 40 per day, plus 1500 deposit)
(Nehru Rd; h4pm-9.30pm; beer 130) An
American-style sports bar in the basement Clothing or gear can be hired from here,
at Glenarys. If you get peckish you can but the quality is pretty low.
order food from the upstairs restaurant. Rope CLOTHING
(NB Singh Rd) This is located just below
7 Shopping Clubside; stocks high quality imported
Nathmulls Tea Room TEA clothing and trek boots.
(www.nathmulltea.com; Laden La Rd; h9am-
7.30pm Mon-Sat, daily high season) Darjeeling
tea is some of the finest tea in the world
8 Information
Emergency
and Nathmulls is the best place to pick up
Police assistance booth (Chowrasta)
some, with over 50 varieties. Expect to pay
Sadar Police Station (%2254422; Market Rd)
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
& DARJEELING
Jeeps for Mirik (60, 2 hours) leave from the
in) Offers Goecha La treks, kayaking, paraglid- northern end about every 1 hours. A ticket
ing, motorbike trips and mountain bike rental oce inside the ground floor of the Old Super
S 8
(450 per day); ask about the cycle itinerary
Market Complex sells advance tickets for the
to Kurseong and back via Senchul Reservoir.
frequent jeeps to Kalimpong (80-90, 2
They also offer internet access, a laundromat,
cheap international calls and cash advances on hours), while two roadside stands sell advance
a credit card. Contact Gautam. tickets for Gangtok (130, four hours), departing
8 RJEELING
DA
between 7am and 3pm.
Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks (%2252874;
samsara1@sancharnet.in; 7 Laden La Rd) Help- At the northern end of the station, three to
ful and knowledgeable agency offering rafting four jeeps a day leave before noon for Jorethang
and trekking trips, and domestic Nepali bus (90, two hours) in Sikkim. You must already
and air tickets to Kathmandu. have a permit to enter Sikkim (see p 497 ) via
Somewhere Over the Rainbow Treks & Tours this route.
(% 9832025739; kanadhi@yahoo.com; HD To New Jalpaiguri or Bagdogra, get a connec-
Lama Rd; h8am-6pm, later in high season) tion in Siliguri, or charter a jeep or taxi from
Organises off-the-beaten track walks around Darjeeling.
Darjeeling, as well as rafting, rock climbing, Darjeeling Transport Corporation (Laden
cycling and trekking in Sikkim (including inter- La Rd) oers charter jeeps to Gangtok (1400),
esting routes from Uttarey). Treks start from Kalimpong (1200) and Siliguri/Bagdogra
US$40 per day. Airport (1200).
Sikkim Travel Permit Train
Sikkim Tourist Office (% 9832438118; Nehru The nearest major train station is at New Jalpai-
Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) For an on-the- guri (NJP), near Siliguri. Tickets can be bought
spot Sikkim permit bring a photocopy of your for major services out of NJP at the Darjeeling
passport and Indian visa, plus one photo. Its train station (h8am-2pm). Fares are to Ghum
opposite Glenarys. (2nd/1st class 21/96, 50 minutes), Kurseong
(27/144, three hours), Siliguri Junction
Dangers & Annoyances (38/217, 6 hours) and NJP (2nd/1st class
Strikes in support of the GJMs call for a sepa- 42/247, seven hours). For sightseeing services
rate Indian state of Gurkhaland have become see p 484.
498 DARJEELING HIMALAYAN RAILWAY
*At the time of research the 2D service was suspended due to landslides, but should have
resumed by time of publication.
& DARJEELING
Nepal border and the trail actually enters Kalimpong once belonged to the chogyals
Nepal in several places. of Sikkim, but it fell into the hands of the
S SIGHTS K
Reliable trekking agencies include the Bhutanese in the 18th century and later
following: passed to the British, before becoming part
Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Tourist of India at Independence. Scottish mission-
Reception Centre (p497) Charges about aries, particularly the Jesuits, made great
eorts to win over the local Buddhists in
S IAGLHI M
2000 per day (all-inclusive) for Singalila
Ridge, or can just organise guides/porters. the late 19th century and Dr Grahams
famous orphanage and school is still running
today. T SP O N G
The Gorkhaland movement is active in
SINGALILA RIDGE TREK
Kalimpong. The Gurkha leader CK Pradhan
was assassinated here in October 2002, and
DISTANCE is commemorated by a small shrine on the
DAY ROUTE (KM)
spot where he was gunned down.
1 Mane Bhanjhang 14 Kalimpong is centred on its chaotic Motor
(2130m) to Ton- Stand. Nearby are restaurants, cheap hotels
glu (3070m)/Tumling and shops; most sights and quality accom-
(2980m) via Meghma modation are a kilometre or two from town,
Gompa accessed via DB Giri and Rinkingpong Rds.
2 Tonglu to Sandakphu 17
(3636m) via Kalipokhri 1 Sights
& Garibas Durpin Gompa MONASTERY
6
To Himalayan Handmade To Deki Lodge
Paper Industry (1km); Dr Graham's (500m); Thongsa
66 6
6666
House (3km); Deolo Hill (9km) Gompa (800m);
n Rd
17
#
MacFarlane
# Lava (32km)
adha
d
Rd
1 Church 1
tri R
B Giri
1
Pr
19
Min
20 #
#
#
KD
14
RC
18 # 24
#
D
2 #
ung
Rd
# Gur
66 6
Dambar DS
# 13
#Chowk# 21
15 #
Rd
Motor Stand
# li
# 22
# 23 R el
25 aR
d
2 2
#
dar
12
Bagh
den Rd
Sports
# 10 Ground
#
DB Giri Rd
Ong
See Enlargement
16
##
Dal
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
Bahadhur
3 3
#
Statue
e #6
# #0 100 m
Mile
ixit Rd
0
!
7
#
Rd
9th
Rd
R i n kingpong
HC D
To Darjeeling (54km); rt
a
3
#
rC
Gangtok (72km)
4 4
pe
11
p
#
U
#
- #8
Ea st Ma in Rd
To St Teresa's
Church (1km)
5 5
#
4
d Rd
R g
art on
er C
p
Up p
ing
nk
Ri
d
Eas t Main Rd
BL Dixit R
Relli River
6 9 6
#
#5
To Gurudongma Tours
& Travels (1.7km); To Santi Kunj
(photography is permitted), and interesting about 300m below the gompa looks out south
3-D mandalas (visual meditational aids) on over the Relli and Teesta Rivers.
the 2nd floor. The monastery is located about
5km south of the town centre, and is best Tharpa Choling Gompa MONASTERY
reached by taxi (80 return). A viewpoint Built in 1922, this Gelugpa-school Tibetan
monastery, o KD Pradhan Rd, contains stat-
Kalimpong 501
Sights 16 King Thai .................................................A3
1 CK Pradhan Shrine.................................B1
2 Himalayan Eagle .....................................A1 Shopping
3 Lepcha Heritage Museum..................... D4 17 Haat Bazaar ............................................ D1
Nurseryman's Haven...................... (see 8) 18 Kashi Nath & Sons ................................. A1
4 Pineview Nursery................................... A5 19 Lark's Provisions .................................... B1
Sleeping Information
5 Cloud 9 ................................................... B6 20 Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council
6 Elgin Silver Oaks .................................... C3 Tourist Reception Centre ................... A1
7 Himalayan Hotel .................................... B4 Helpdesk ........................................(see 10)
8 Holumba Haven ..................................... A4 Studio Foto Max ............................(see 16)
9 Kalimpong Park Hotel ........................... B6
10 Sherpa Lodge......................................... A2 Transport
11 Sood's Garden Retreat.......................... A4 21 Himalayan Travellers.............................A2
22 Kalimpong Mainline Taxi
Eating Driver's Welfare
12 3C's......................................................... A2 Association ..........................................A2
13 China Garden Restaurant ..................... B2 23 Kalimpong Motor Transport .................B2
ues of the past, present and future Buddhas. Deolo Hill VIEWPOINT
A garuda protects each Buddha from above, (admission 50; 9km from Kalimpong) On a clear
& DARJEELING
his mouth devouring hatred and anger day the sunrise views of Khangchendzonga
(in the form of a snake). Its a 30-minute from this hilltop park are superb. After
S SIGHTS K
walk (uphill) from town, past the top of savouring the views you can have breakfast
Tripai Rd. at the attached Tourist Lodge (breakfast 70-
140; hfrom 8am) and then walk back to Ka-
Thongsa Gompa MONASTERY
limpong via Dr Grahams. A taxi here costs
Near the top of RC Mintri Rd, past JP Lodge, around 250. If its cloudy, stay in bed.
S IAGLHI M
is this Nyingmapa-school monastery, also
known as the Bhutanese Monastery. The Himalayan Handmade
gompa was founded in 1692, but the present Paper Industry HANDICRAFTS T SP O N G
building, surrounded by 219 small prayer (KD Pradhan Rd; %255418; www.rupeshpradhan.
wheels, was built in the 19th century after com; h9am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) Visitors are wel-
the Gurkhas rampaged across Sikkim. come to drop into this small workshop to see
the traditional papermaking process, from
Dr Grahams Home HISTORIC BUILDING
pulping of the local argayli bush to pressing
This working orphanage and school was and drying. The resulting insect-resistant
built in 1900 by Dr JA Graham, a Scottish paper is used by monasteries to block print
missionary, to educate the children of tea scriptures. Morning is the best time to visit.
estate workers, and now has more than 1300
students. Theres a small museum (admission Nurseries NURSERIES
free h9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) that commemo- Kalimpong is a major flower exporter and pro-
rates the founder and his wife, Katherine. duces about 80% of Indias gladioli as well as
The 1925 chapel above the school seems many orchid varieties. Visit Nurserymans
lifted straight out of a Scotland parish, with Haven (%256936; 9th Mile) at Holumba
its grey slate, spire and fine stained-glass Haven (see p502) to have a look at orchids;
windows. The gate is 4km up the steep KD Santi Kunj (BL Dixit Rd; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-
Pradhan Rd. Many people charter a taxi to 4pm Sun-Fri) to see anthuriums and the bird
get here (100) and then walk back to town of paradise flower (bulbs are also sold here);
via Tharpa Choling Gompa. and Pineview Nursery (%255843; www.pine
viewcactus.com; Atisha Rd; admission 10; 8am-
502
5pm, Sun closed winter) to gaze at its eminently 4 Sleeping
photographable cactus collection. The hotels closest to the Motor Stand are
Lepcha Heritage Museum MUSEUM mainly grotty and overpriced; its well worth
(%9800033650; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) There walking a few extra steps for a significant in-
are plans to move this collection of Lepcha crease in quality. High-season rates (October
treasures to a more formal location, but to early December and mid-March to early
until then the experience is best likened June) are given here.
to rummaging through the attic of your
grandfathers house, if he were a Lepcha oHolumba Haven BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
tribal elder. A guide will explain Lepcha (%256936; www.holumba.com; 9th Mile; r 700-
creation myths, while pointing out the reli- 1800, cottage from 4500) Described by its wel-
gious texts, sacred porcupine quill hat and coming owners as more of a homestay than
several old pangolin skins. Its a 10-minute a hotel, this family-run guesthouse is situ-
walk below the sports ground, just past the ated in a splendid orchid nursery just 1km
Kamudini Homes School. Calling ahead is below town. The spotless, comfy rooms are
advised. arranged in homey cottages spread around
the lush garden, and spring water is piped
St Teresas Church CHURCH directly into the rooms. Good home-style
A fascinating missionary church built in meals (300, preorder) are available in the
1929 by Swiss Jesuits, St Teresa was con- sociable dining room. Owner Norden is a
structed to incorporate designs from a
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
than anything near the Motor Stand. (%257456; o DB Giri Rd; mains 40-120, beer
120) Gompus is famous for its massive
Sherpa Lodge HOTEL $ momos (pork, chicken and veg), which have
(%8972029913; s 200, d 300-400) This decent been drawing locals and travellers alike for
budget place is slap bang in the centre of ages. Its a good place for a cold beer. Its
town, oering bright, clean rooms and buck- found within the hotel of the same name.
ets of hot water for the attached bathrooms.
The rooftop terrace has great potential. Ask China Garden Restaurant CHINESE $
tain views and theres a good restaurant (DB Giri Rd; mains 50-140) Upstairs, across the
with a pleasant sitting area for tea or a beer. road from the DGHC, this place has a wide
The eager-to-help owners can organise all range of almost uniformly good food including
& DARJEELING
kinds of tours and trips. some hard-to-find dishes that you might have
been craving, like miso soup and bacon sand-
Elgin Silver Oaks
S E AT I N G K
HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ wiches and a good Gorkhali set meal, featur-
(%255296; www.elginhotels.com; Rinkingpong Rd; ing Nepali-style gundruk (fermented greens).
s/d incl full board 5600/5900) This centrally
located Raj-era homestead has been reno- 3Cs BAKERY $
vated into a modern and very comfortable (DB Giri Rd; cakes & snacks 10-30; h8.30am-
E AT
Elgin hotel. The rooms are plushly furnished 7.15pm) If you need a quick break, this popu-
A LI N
and oer grand views down the valley (ask lar bakery and fast food restaurant oers a
for a garden-view room). The tari includes variety of pastries and cakes, both sweet and MGP O N G
all meals in the excellent restaurant and the savoury, with seating in the back.
sociable bar packs bags of atmosphere.
7 Shopping
Cloud 9 HOTEL $$ Larks Provisions FOOD & DRINK $
(%259554; cloud9kpg@yahoo.com; Rinkingpong (DB Giri Rd) The best place to pick up Ka-
Rd; d 1100-1500) Theres no chance of a tour- limpong cheese (240 per kg), produced in
group invasion in this friendly place, since Kalimpong since the Jesuits established a
there are just three wood-panelled rooms, dairy here in the 19th century, and locally
plus a cosy TV lounge and a good restau- made Kalimpong lollipops (25). Also sells
rant, serving interesting Bhutanese and Sik- groceries and yummy homemade pickles.
kimese dishes (try the kewa tachi potato
and cheese). Guitars in the lounge attest to Haat Bazaar MARKET
the owners love of late-night Beatles covers. (btwn Relli & RC Mintri Rds) On Wednesday
and Saturday this normally quiet bazaar
5 Eating roars to life.
oKing Thai CHINESE $$ Kashi Nath & Sons BOOKS
(3rd fl supermarket, DB Giri Rd; mains 50-110; (DB Giri Rd; h10am-6.30pm) This, and the
h11am-9.30pm) A multicultural hang-out shop next door, has a decent range of
with a Thai name, Chinese food, Bob Mar- books on Buddhism, Nepal and Tibet, plus
ley posters and British soccer banners for some novels.
504 DIY EXPLORING AROUND KALIMPONG
Theres plenty of scope for some exploring in the hills and villages around Kalimpong.
The picturesque drive east from Kalimpong passes through mist and moss-laden, old-
growth forests and makes for nice hiking. For more information on the region see the
Helpdesk in Kalimpong (p503) or Norden at Holumba Haven (p502).
About 32km east of Kalimpong, Lava (2353m) is a small village popular with Bengali
tourists, with a Kagyupa gompa and a bustling Tuesday market. En route, a short detour
6km from Algarh, you can make the short hike to the faint 17th-century ruins of Damsang
Dzong, a former fortress of the chogyals of Sikkim.
Adjoining Lava town is Neora Valley National Park (admission 150), featuring lush
forests home to red panda and clouded leopard. There are some fine day hikes or you
can make the four-day camping trek to Rochela (3155m), at the high junction of West
Bengal, Sikkim and Bhutan.
Theres plenty of accommodation in Lava. The cottages of the Lava Forest Lodge
(www.wbfdc.com; d 600-1200) just above town is the nicest option but can be hard to
book; try through WBTDC in Siliguri or Holumba Haven in Kalimpong. The government-
run Tourist Cottage (%9932270767; d 750) is another decent choice.
About 26km further east of Lava is Kaffer (1555m), also known as Lolaygaon, from
where there are views of the summit of Khangchendzonga. Daffey Munal Tourist
WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S
Lodge (%03552-277218; dm 150, d/tr 750/1000) is a rambling old DGHC place with
huge, clean rooms, hot water and fireplaces.
To get further afield, Gurudongma Tours & Travels (%255204; www.gurudongma
.com, www.awakeandshine.org; Hilltop, Rinkingpong Rd, Kalimpong; s/d full board from
3800/4500) runs the cosy Farm House at Samthar. There are fine views of the Bhuta-
nese Himalaya and some fascinating conversations when the owner, the General, is in
residence. They will arrange transport from Kalimpong.
Other adventure companies in the region include Silk Route Experience (www
.thesilkrouteexperience.com) based around its Silk Route Retreat in Pedong, 22km from
Kalimpong.
Several jeeps daily link Kalimpong with both Lava and Kaer.
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
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Sikkim
Why Go?
East Sikkim . . . . . . . . .530 If youre suering from too much heat, dust or crowds,
Gangtok . . . . . . . . . . . 530 then the tiny, former Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim is the
perfect antidote. Fresh mountain air sweeps the lush green
North Sikkim . . . . . . . . 538
state; theres room to move but the people are among Indias
Gangtok to Singhik. . 538 friendliest, with a charming manner thats unobtrusive and
South Sikkim . . . . . . .540 slightly shy.
Namchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 Plunging mountain valleys are lushly forested, inter-
spersed with rice terraces and flowering rhododendrons.
Jorethang (Naya
Bazaar). . . . . . . . . . . . .541 Tibetan-style Buddhist monasteries (gompas) add splashes
of white, gold and vermilion to the green ridges and are ap-
West Sikkim . . . . . . . . 541 proached through avenues of fluttering prayer flags.
Ravangla (Rabongla) 541 Sikkims big-ticket item is the majesty of Khangchend-
Geyzing, Tikjuk & zonga (Kanchenjunga; 8598m), the worlds third-highest
Legship. . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 mountain, straddling the border between Sikkim and Ne-
Pelling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 pal. Khangchendzongas guardian spirit is worshipped in a
The Monastery Loop 545 series of spectacular autumn festivals and its magnificent
white peaks and ridges create the backdrop to a dozen won-
derful walks and viewpoints.
When to Go
Best Places to Gangtok
Stay C/F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
40/104 32/800
Camping on the Goecha
La trek (p548) 24/600
20/68
Elgin Mount Pandim
16/400
(p544)
0/32
Mt Narsing Resort (p542) 8/200
-20/-4 0
Best Monasteries J F M A M J J A S O N D
Gurudongmar
a
CHINA Lake
ay
Kora Kang Pauhunri
TIBET (6601m)
al
Tsopta (7125m)
im Valley Kangchengyao
H
SIKKIM
Tsopta (6889m)
Si k kim Thanggu
Yume
Yumt hang
Gora-La
Samdong Yumthang
Valley
Yumthang CHINA
Green Zemu TIBET
Ri
Glacier
ve
Lake
r
Nepal Peak Phimkaru-La
Te
(6910m) Lachen
Siniolchu
es
Khangchendzonga Lachung
ta
(5780m)
National Park
Ri
NEPAL
Chumbi
ve
r
Khangchendzonga
(8598m) Khangchendzonga Tolung Mt Katao
Kabru Lookout (2488m) Chumbi
Chungthang
(7338m) Goecha La Valley
Pandim Linzey
Jemathang (6691m)
Chaunrikhiang Thangsing Singhik
Teesta River
Yuksom
Yuksom Lingdum Tsomgo
Khecheopalri
t
Pelling Rumtek
Tikjuk R
Ran
Dentam Singtam
Singalila La Rinchenpong
ng
Pa
Manglai
Singali
Rangpo BHUTAN
Samdruptse
Soreng Solophuk Namchi
Jorethang Melli Kalimpong
Sombare (Naya Bazaar) Melli Bazaar
Teesta Bazaar
To Darjeeling To Siliguri
WEST BENGAL
(20km) (45km)
Sikkim Highlights
1 Wonder at the spectacular Gompa (p545), then help out 6 Stare open-mouthed
scenery of the Sikkim the local schoolkids by eating at one of Sikkims gigantic
Himalaya on a 4WD trip to the banana cake religious statues, in Namchi
Yumthang Valley (p539) 4 Wander among the (p540) or Ravangla (p542)
2 Be enthralled by a colourful prayer flags, mantras and 7 Overnight at peaceful
chaam (masked monk dance) ancient chortens (stupas) of Khecheopalri Lake (p545)
at Rumtek gompa (p536) Tashiding Gompa (p548) before hiking up to a nearby
3 Take in dawn Khangchen- 5 Hike the scenic hillside meditation cave
dzonga views in Pelling trail (p547) from Yuksom to
(p543), visit Pemayangtse Tashiding
History Tour agencies are striving to open new
Lepchas, the original Sikkimese people, mi- trekking areas, notably the fabulous route 529
grated here from Assam or Myanmar (Bur- across Zemu Glacier to Green Lake in
ma) in the 13th century, followed by Bhutias Khangchendzonga National Park. However,
(people of Tibetan origin) who fled from reli- permits remain very expensive and take
gious strife in Tibet during the 15th century. months to arrange from Delhi, while tempt-
The Nyingmapa form of Vajrayana (Tibetan) ing routes close to the Tibetan border re-
Buddhism arrived with three refugee Ti- main o-limits.
SIKKIM
betan lamas who encountered each other at
the site of modern-day Yuksom. Here in 1641 8 Permits
they crowned Phuntsog Namgyal as first STANDARD PERMITS Foreigners require an
chogyal (king) of Sikkim. The capital later Inner Line Permit to enter Sikkim (Indians dont).
These are free and a mere formality, although to
moved to Rabdentse (near Pelling), then to
apply youll need photos and passport photocop-
Tumlong (Phodong) before finally settling in ies. Permits are most easily obtainable at Dar-
Gangtok following a Nepali invasion. jeeling or the Rangpo border post on arrival but
At their most powerful the chogyals rule can also be obtained at Indian embassies abroad
encompassed eastern Nepal, upper Bengal when getting your visa and the following places:
and Darjeeling. However, much territory Foreigners Regional Registration Offices
was later lost during wars with Bhutan and (FRRO) Delhi (Map p78; % 011-26195530;
Nepal, and throughout the 19th century frrodelhi@hotmail.com; Level 2, East Block 8,
large numbers of Hindu Nepali migrants ar- Sector 1, Rama Krishna (RK) Puram; h9.30am-
rived, eventually coming to form a majority 5.30pm Mon-Fri); Kolkata (Map p 450;
of Sikkims population. % 22837034; 237 AJC Bose Rd; h11am-5pm
In 1835 the British bribed Sikkims chogyal Mon-Fri); Mumbai (Map p730; %22620446;
to cede Darjeeling to the East India Compa- Annexe Bldg No 2, CID, Badaruddin Tyabji Rd,
ny. Tibet, which regarded Sikkim as a vassal near Special Branch) Or other major branches.
state, raised strong objections. In 1849, amid Sikkim House Delhi (%11-26883026; 12-14
rising tensions, the British annexed the en- Panchsheel Marg, Chankyapuri, Delhi); Kolkata
(Map p 450; %22817905; 4/1 Middleton St;
tire area between the present Sikkim border
h10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat)
and the Ganges plains, repulsing a counter-
Sikkim Tourist Office Darjeeling
invasion by Tibet in 1886. In 190304, Brit-
(% 9832438118; Nehru Rd; h10am-4pm
ains ultimate imperial adventurer Francis Mon-Sat); Siliguri, West Bengal (SNT Terminal,
Younghusband twice trekked up to the Sik- Hill Cart Rd; h10am-5pm) For an on-the-spot
kimTibet border. There, with a small con- Sikkim permit bring a photocopy of your pass-
tingent of soldiers, he set about inciting a fra- port and Indian visa, plus one photo.
cas that would justify an invasion of Tibet. EXTENSIONS Permits are generally valid for
Sikkims last chogyal ruled from 1963 to 30 days (sometimes 15 days from embassies
1975, when the Indian government deposed abroad). One or two days before expiry they can
him after a revolt by Sikkims Nepali popula- be extended for a further 30 days, giving a maxi-
tion. China didnt recognise Indias claim to mum of 60 days. For the extension try these:
Sikkim until 2005 so prior to this, to bolster Gangtok Foreigners Registration Oce (p535)
pro-Delhi sentiment, the Indian govern- Tikjuk District Administration Centre,
ment made Sikkim a tax-free zone, pouring Superintendent of Police, (p543), 5km below
crores (tens of millions) of rupees into road- Pelling.
building, electricity, water supplies and local
industry. As a result Sikkim is surprisingly
auent by Himalayan standards.
BLOODY LEECHES
2 Activities
Sikkim oers considerable trekking poten- Sikkim is generally a very safe place;
tial. Day hikes between villages follow centu- the only annoyance is the famous little
ries-old footpaths and normally dont require leeches. They arent dangerous, just a
permits: the most popular option is between nuisance, primarily during the summer
Yuksom and Tashiding. For multiday treks monsoon (June to September). Theyre
that head into the high Himalaya, notably to ubiquitous in damp grass so stick to
Goecha La at the base of Khangchendzonga dry, wide paths.
(p548), you need to book through a trekking
agency to arrange permits and guides.
530
Once you leave Sikkim, you must wait three
months before applying for another permit.
1 Sights
Namgyal Institute of Tibetology &
PERMIT VALIDITY The standard permit is valid
Around MUSEUM, VIEWPOINT
for visits to the following areas:
(%281642; www.tibetology.net; Deorali; admis-
Gangtok, Rumtek and Lingdum
sion 10; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat
South Sikkim of month) Housed in traditionally styled
anywhere on the GangtokSinghik road Tibetan architecture, this unique institute
was established in 1958 to promote research
SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M
most of West Sikkim to which paved roads into Vajrayana Buddhism and Tibetan cul-
extend. ture. The museum hall displays Buddhist
SPECIAL PERMITS High-altitude treks, includ- manuscripts, icons, thangkas (Tibetan reli-
ing the main Goecha La and Singalila Ridge gious paintings) and Tantric ritual objects,
routes, require trekking permits valid for up to such as a thpa (bowl made from a human
15 days and organised by trekking agents. skull) and kangling (human thighbone
For travel beyond Singhik up the Lachung trumpet). There are plenty of useful explan-
and Lachen valleys foreigners need additional atory captions.
restricted area permits from the tourism
Further along the same road is the Do-
department and police and, even with these,
cannot go further than the Tsopta valley or Yume Drul Chorten, a large white Tibetan pagoda
Samdong (Zero Point). Indian citizens need a surrounded by dormitories for novice monks.
police permit to travel north of Singhik, but can The institute sits in a park and is con-
travel further up the Thangu valley to Gurudong- veniently close to the lower station of Da-
mar Lake. movar Ropeway (per person adult/child return
Foreigners also need a restricted area permit 60/35; h9.30am-4.30pm), a cable car run-
to visit Tsomgo (Changu) Lake. Indians only (no ning from Secretariat ridge. The views are
foreigners) are permitted to travel east past stupendous, if you can bear to look down.
Tsomgo Lake to the Tibetan border at Nathu La.
Restricted area permits are issued locally Ridge PARK
through approved tour agencies and you will With views east and west, its very pleasant
have to join a tour to get one. Youll need a mini- to stroll through shady parks and gardens
mum group of two, a passport photo, and copies on the citys central ridge. Its focal point
of your existing permit, visa and passport details the Raj Bhawan (the former Royal Palace)
page. Permits take 24 hours to arrange and last is closed to visitors, though the impressive
for a maximum of five days. Tsuglhakhang temple is often open early in
the morning (and during major festivals) to
pilgrims and curious tourists.
EAST SIKKIM During the spring bloom (March and
April) its worth peeping inside the Flower
Exhibition Centre (admission 10; h9am-
5pm), a modestly sized greenhouse full of
Gangtok exotic orchids, anthuriums and lilium.
% 03592 / POP 31,100 / ELEV 1400-1700M
Sikkims capital is mostly a functional sprawl Enchey Gompa MONASTERY
of multistorey concrete boxes. But, true to its (h4am-4pm Mon-Sat, 4am-1pm Sun) Approached
name (meaning hill top), these are steeply through gently rustling conifers high above
tiered along a precipitous mountain ridge. Gangtok, this monastery dating back to 1909
When clouds clear, typically at dawn, views is Gangtoks most attractive, with some de-
are inspiring with Khangchendzonga soar- cent murals and statues of Tantric deities.
ing above the western horizon. While Gang- The monastery founder was famous for his
toks manmade attractions are minor, its levitational skills. It comes alive for the co-
a reasonable place to spend a day or two lourful Detor Chaam masked dances in
organising a trek or trips to the north. December/January (28th and 29th day of the
Gangtoks crooked spine is the Rangpo 11th Tibetan lunar month).
Mangan road, National Hwy 31A, cryptically
referred to as 31ANHWay. The tourist oce, Ganesh Tok & Around VIEWPOINTS
banks and many shops line the central pe- From Enchey Gompa the main road swings
destrianised Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Marg. northeast around the obvious telecommuni-
cations tower to a collection of prayer flags,
where a footpath scrambles up in around
15 minutes to Ganesh Tok viewpoint. Fes- up to five passengers (four for Khangchend-
tooned in colourful prayer flags, Ganesh Tok zonga ridge): buzz over Gangtok (7590, 15 531
oers superb city views and its minicafe minutes); circuit of West Sikkim (66,000, 55
serves hot teas. minutes); circuit of North Sikkim (78,500, 65
Hanuman Tok, another impressive view- minutes); Khangchendzonga ridge (90,000,
point, sits on a hilltop around 4km drive 75 minutes). Book at least three days ahead.
beyond Ganesh Tok, though there are short- Blue Sky Treks & Travels TREKKING
cuts for walkers. (%205113; www.himalayantourismonline.com;
SIKKIM
E AST SIKKIM
Gangtoks best view of Khangchendzonga Tourism Bldg, MG Marg) Trekking and tours.
can be found from the Tashi viewpoint,
Ecotourism & Conservation
4km northwest of town, beside the main
Society of Sikkim HOMESTAYS
route to Phodong.
TO
G
(ECOSS; %232798; www.sikkimhomestay.com;
AU
Tadong/Daragaon) Can arrange homestays
N RGTO
Himalayan Zoological Park ZOO
(%223191; admission 50, video 500; h9am-4pm) (600 to 1500 per person) in Dzongu
STOKU R S
Across the road from Ganesh Tok viewpoint, (permits required), Pastanga and Yuksom
a lane leads into the zoo. Red pandas, Hima- villages.
layan bears and snow leopards roam around Galaxy Tours & Treks TREKKING
in extensive wooded enclosures so large that (%201290; www.tourhimalayas.com; Metro Point)
youll value a car to shuttle between them. Tours to North Sikkim and runs several
hotels in the Lachung Valley.
T Tours Hub Outdoor OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Classic early morning three-point tours show (%9434203848; www.gosikkim; Tibet Rd) Offers
you Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok and Tashi mountain biking, trekking and even can-
viewpoints (500). Almost any travel agent, yoning, with a decent outdoor gear shop.
hotel or taxi driver oers variants, includ-
ing a five-point tour adding Enchey Gompa Modern Treks & Tours TREKKING
Palijor To Hidden
Stadium Forest (2km); 33
# Gompa (1km)
PS
Lingdum Gompa To Rachna Bookshop
)
Rd
31A
(17km) (300m); Handicrafts &
1 # 10
Handlooms Emporium 1
way
(600m); Tashi Viewpoint
ig h
35 (5km); Ganesh Tok (10km)
#
lH
66
6
SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M
na
tio
Na
White
(
ay
Memorial #
HW
# 12
# Hall
AN
31
1
#
2 #7
#5
2
66
6
To Ganesh Tok
13 and Himalayan
#
Zoological Park
# 30
(3km); Hanuman
Tok (7km); Tsomgo
#8
4
Rd
Lake (36km)
#
9 #
Tib e t
66
# 15
th
Church Rd #
29
idge
u Pa
#
3 3
# # 16
14
The R
Bhan
3 18
6 #
#
#
34
# #
#
# 23 25
# 21
#
.
#
666
66
20 # # Gate
#
-
17
#
11 #
Path
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19
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666
Raj
22
# Bhawan
#
32
c c ess)
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way 31A za
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)
l Ba
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(National Hig
A
Ma
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#
31 26
i (MG)
666
5 5
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28 # #
oa
Kazi Rd
Mahatma Gandh
27
# 2
Pr ivate
24
#
#
31 A N H Way
Gate
#
66
666
6 To Damovar Ropeway Lower Station 6
(1km); Namgyal Institute of Tibetology Upper Damovar
(1.5km); Deorali Jeep Stand (1.5km); Ropeway Station
Damovar
Hotel Tashi Tagey (3km); ECOSS (3km);
#
SIKKIM
E AST SIKKIM
4 Galaxy Tours & Treks ............................ B3
5 Hub Outdoor .......................................... C2 Entertainment
Modern Treks & Tours ................. (see 15) 25 Caf Live and Loud.................................C3
S LAENEGTO
G
6 Namgyal Treks & Tours ........................ C3
7 Potala Tours & Treks............................. C2 Shopping
PSI NL K
8 Sikkim Tours & Travels ......................... A3 26 Golden Tips.............................................B5
27 Khangchendzonga Market ....................A5
E
GE P I N G
Sleeping
9 Chumbi Residency ................................ C3 Information
10 Hotel Nor-Khill ........................................B1 28 Foreigners' Registration
11 Hotel Pandim ......................................... C4 Office ....................................................B5
12 Hotel Sonam Delek................................ C2 29 Sikkim Tourist Information
13 Kanchen Residency............................... C2 Centre ..................................................B3
14 Mintokling Guest House........................ C3 30 STNM Hospital .......................................C2
15 Modern Central Lodge .......................... B3
16 New Modern Central Lodge.................. C3 Transport
31 Lal Bazzar Taxi Stand ............................A5
Eating Railway Booking Counter ............ (see 33)
17 Bakers Cafe............................................ B4 32 Shared Taxis to Tadong.........................B5
18 Gangtalk ................................................. B3 Sikkim Tourism Development
19 Golden Pagoda ...................................... B4 Corporation ............................... (see 29)
20 Parivar Restaurant ................................ B4 33 SNT Bus Station..................................... C1
21 Roll House .............................................. B3 34 Southwest Jeep Stand...........................B3
Tangerine ........................................ (see 9) 35 Taxi Stand............................................... C1
like family home of a dozen rooms is a real super-friendly place, 3km below Gangtok.
oasis, featuring Sikkimese fabrics, timber Theres a wide range of spotless rooms, great
ceilings and prayer flags in the garden. The views from the rooftop bonsai garden and
restaurant serves seasonal Sikkimese speciali- the Tibetan food is some of the best youll
ties like nettle soup and fried fiddlehead fern. ever taste (ask Nyima to make her excellent
cottage cheese with tomato and basil). The
Hotel Pandim HOTEL $
main drawback is the heavy road noise, so
(%9832080172; www.hotelpandim.com; Secre-
get a room at the back. The location appears
tariat; s/d/tr from 500/650/950, deluxe s/d from
inconvenient but frequent shared taxis (15)
950/1250; W) Right on the top of the ridge,
shuttle between the hotel and Gangtok.
this well-run guesthouse is perhaps the best
at the upper end of the budget options. Top- Hotel Nor-Khill HERITAGE HOTEL $$$
floor deluxe rooms have the best views but (%205637; www.elginhotels.com; PS Rd; s/d incl full
the cheaper basement rooms are also clean board 6900/7200; W) Oozing 1930s elegance,
and good value with TV and a small balcony. this sumptuous house of jewels was original-
The top-floor restaurant is particularly nice, ly the King of Sikkims royal guesthouse. His-
with great views, a fine terrace and tradi- torical photos, antique furniture and Tibetan
tional meals if ordered in advance. Barking carpets line the hallways and lobby, giving the
dogs can be a problem at night. latter a Victorian feel. The spaciously luxuri-
ous rooms attract film stars and Dalai Lamas.
Hotel Tashi Tagey HOTEL $$
(%231631; www.tashitagey.com; 31ANHWay, Ta- New Modern Central Lodge HOTEL $
dong; d 850-1650; i) For Tibetan hospital- (%201361; Tibet Rd; dm 100, d 300-400, s without
ity at its best its worth seeking out this bathroom 150) A backpackers favourite for so
long that people still come here despite some- Golden Pagoda INDIAN $
534 what dreary rooms (front-facing rooms are (MG Marg; mains 50-105) The rooftop of the
easily the best). With plenty of cheap options hotel of the same name doesnt look like the
and a friendly ground-floor restaurant and location of some of the best Indian food in
budget tour agency, it will probably remain a town but the views, service and food are all
shoestring standby. Most rooms have a toilet top-notch. Specialties include the Lucknow
but only a few have hot-water showers. chaat (savoury snacks), Rajasthani and
Gujarati thalis, and superb mixed raita (fla-
Modern Central Lodge GUESTHOUSE $
SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M
voured yoghurt).
(%221081; info@modern-hospitality.com; 31AN-
HWay; d 500-700, tr 600) More rupees buy you Gangtalk CONTINENTAL $$
a slightly larger room right on the main junc- (MG Marg; mains 140-270, set lunch 149-199)
tion by MG Marg. Theres good home-cooked Fresh and modern is the vibe here, with a
food on the roof garden if you book ahead. collection of retro album covers on the walls
and a wide range of comfort food from burgers
Hotel Sonam Delek HOTEL $$
to bangers and mash. Its also probably the
(%202566; www.hotelsonamdelek.com; Tibet Rd; only place youll ever see fish momos on the
d 1000-3000) This is a longstanding favou- menu. Grab a seat on the fine terrace over-
rite oering good service, reliable food and a looking interesting MG Marg.
great back terrace with views over the valley.
The best-value super-deluxe rooms (2000) Tangerine SIKKIMESE $$
come with soft mattresses and decent views. (Ground fl, Chumbi Residency, Tibet Rd; mains 130-
Bigger suite rooms (3000) have better views 180) Descend five floors for sublime cuisine,
and balconies, but the standard rooms are a tasty Western snacks or cocktails in the
very noticeable step down in the basement. brilliant Japanese-style floor-cushioned bar
area. Try the stued-tomato curry or sample
Chumbi Residency HOTEL $$$
Sikkimese specialities like sochhya (nettle
(%206618; www.thechumbiresidency.com; Tibet stew). The stylishly relaxed decor adds a real
Rd; s/d incl breakfast from 2600/3400; W) This splash of glam.
central three-star hotel has comfortable but
Parivar Restaurant SOUTH INDIAN $
smallish rooms with fresh white walls, good
(MG Marg; dishes 60-110) Eat here for good-
furniture and tea-and-coee-making equip-
value South Indian vegetarian food; try
ment. Theres little dierence between the
the various masala dosas for breakfast,
two grades of rooms but make sure you get
the choley paneer (chickpeas with cottage
a view. The cool basement Tangerine bar-
cheese) or the all-inclusive mini/full thali
restaurant is recommended.
for 90/150.
Kanchen Residency HOTEL $$
(%9732072614; kanchenresidency@in- Bakers Cafe BAKERY $
diatimes.com; Tibet Rd; d back/side/front (MG Marg; pastries from 12, mains 75-150;
h8am-8pm) The perfect breakfast escape,
600/900/1000) Above the dismal (unre-
lated) Hotel Prince, this airy discovery is this cosy Western-style cafe has strong
spacious, light and well run. Upper front coffee (40), croissants, tempting cakes,
rooms have good views. paninis and pizzas, though the service can
be glacial.
5 Eating Roll House SNACK BAR $
Most budget hotels have cheap cafe-res- (MG Marg; rolls 15-30; h8am-8pm) In an alley
taurants serving standard Chinese/Tibetan just off MG Marg this hole-in-the-wall
dishes, basic Indian meals and Western serves delicious Kolkata-style kati rolls, a
breakfasts. kind of Indian enchilada.
SIKKIM
E AST SIKKIM
(www.thriceasmuch.com; Tibet Rd; h11am-11pm) Axis Bank (MG Marg; h9.30am-3.30pm Mon-
Big windows overlooking MG Marg add Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat) Changes cash and
to the cool of this modern bar-restaurant, travellers cheques and has an ATM. Stock up
with rupees in Gangtok: exchange is virtually
SH
G
even if the blue-and-red walkway lights do
AO
impossible elsewhere in Sikkim.
NP
feel a bit like the entrance to a Disney ride.
GTO
Cyber Cafe (MG Marg; per hr 30; h9am-
PSIHNKOGP P I N G
The bar food stretches to pizza and steaks
(mains 60 to 220). If youre lucky therell 9pm) Internet access; the entrance is opposite
Roll House.
be a game on the big-screen TV, if youre
unlucky the karaoke will kick in. Foreigners Registration Office (Kazi Rd;
h10am-4pm, 10am-noon public hols) In the
lane beside Indian Overseas Bank, for permit
7 Shopping extensions.
Several souvenir shops on MG Marg and PS Main post office (PS Rd, Gangtok; h9am-5pm
Rd sell Tibetan and Sikkimese handicrafts like Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun for stamps)
wooden tongba (Himalayan millet beer) pots, Police station (%202033; 31ANHWay)
prayer flags and Nepali-style kukri knives. STNM hospital (%222059; 31ANHWay)
Sikkims tax-free status means that booze
Sikkim Tourist Information Centre (%toll
is big business. A few local liquors are avail- free 204408; www.sikkimtourism.travel; MG
able in novelty souvenir containers. Opening Marg; h8am-8pm) Offers general advice. Open
a 1L monk-shaped bottle of Old Monk Rum 10am to 4pm outside peak seasons. For spe-
(220) means screwing o the monks head! cific queries regarding trekking and permit-area
Fireball brandy comes in a bowling-ball- travel, deal with a travel agent.
style red sphere.
Khangchendzonga Market FOOD & DRINK
8 Getting There & Away
This covered market is interesting for its Air
range of traditional Himalayan produce, The nearest airport to Sikkim is Bagdogra
including churpi (dried cheese on a string), (p 483), 124km from Gangtok, near Siliguri in
cow skin snacks, Tibetan tsampa (ground West Bengal, which has flights to Kolkata, Delhi
and Guwahati.
roasted barley), dried phing noodles and cir-
Helicopters shuttle from Gangtok to Bagdogra
cular yeast patties used for brewing chhang
(2200, 35 minutes), departing at 11am and re-
(millet beer). turning at 2.30pm, but services are cancelled in
adverse weather. Theres a strict maximum 10kg
Handicrafts & Handloom
baggage allowance. Sikkim Tourism Develop-
Emporium HANDICRAFTS
ment Corporation (%203960; MG Marg) sells
(Zero Point; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, daily Jul-Mar) the tickets for this and scenic flights.
This government initiative teaches tradi- Fixed-price Maruti vans/sumos (jeeps) go
tional crafts to local students and markets directly to Bagdogra (1500/1700, 4 hours).
their products including toy red pandas, Youll get the best rates from returning vehicles,
1m by 2m hand-woven carpets (5500), so look for West Bengal (WB) number plates.
Tibetan furniture, handmade paper and Sikkims first airport is planned at Pakyong,
traditional Sikkimese-style dresses (1000 35km from Gangtok, with a tentative completion
to 1600). date of 2012.
(150, three hours) and Siliguri (140, four village, containing religious buildings,
hours), some continuing to New Jalpaiguri train schools and several small lodge-hotels. To
station. There are daily jeeps to Kakarbhitta enter, foreigners must show both passport
(180, four hours, 6.30am) on the Nepalese and Sikkim permit. Unusually for a monast-
border and Jaigaon (250, four hours, 8am) on ery, this place is guarded by armed police,
the Bhutanese border. Buses to Siliguri (100) as there have been violent altercations, and
also run from here. Purchase tickets in advance.
even an invasion, by monks who dispute the
The stand is hidden in the alleys below the lower
ropeway station. Karmapas accession.
The main monastery building (admission
West Sikkim vehicles depart from Southwest
jeep stand (Church Rd) for Geyzing (140, 4 10; h6am-6pm) was constructed between
hours, four daily), Ravangla (90, three hours, 1961 and 1966 to replace Tsurphu Monastery
four daily), Namchi (110, three hours, every half- in Tibet, which had been partially destroyed
hour) and Jorethang (110, three hours, hourly). during Chinas Cultural Revolution (theres a
Jeeps for Yuksom, Tashiding and Pelling (150 to mural of the original monastery beside the
180, five hours) depart around 7am and possibly metal detector). The giant throne within
again around 12.30pm. For independent travel, awaits the crowning of Kagyus current spir-
small groups can charter a vehicle. itual leader, the (disputed) 17th Karmapa.
Train
Exit to the side and take the rear stairs
past a snack shop (good tea and momos)
The nearest major train station is over 120km
up to the Golden Stupa (h6-11.45am & noon-
away at New Jalpaiguri (NJP). Theres a comput-
5pm). The smallish room holds the ashes of
erised railway booking counter (h8am-2pm
Mon-Sat, 8am-11am Sun & public hols) at the the important 16th Karmapa in an amber,
SNT bus station. coral and turquoise-studded reliquary to
which pilgrims pay their deepest respects. If
8 Getting Around locked, someone from the colourful Karma
Shri Nalanda Institute of Buddhist Studies
Theres a taxi stand in Lal Bazaar opposite the opposite can usually open it for you.
Denzong Cinema, and another in PS Rd just
Rumtek holds impressive masked chaam
north of the post oce. Shared taxis to Tadong
(15, every 10 minutes) depart from just under dances during the annual Drupchen (group
the pedestrian bridge on the National Hwy. meditation) in May/June, and two days be-
fore Losar (Tibetan New Year) when you
might also catch traditional lhamo (Tibetan
Around Gangtok opera) performances.
Rumtek and Lingdum gompas make for a Old Rumtek Gompa MONASTERY
great day trip from Gangtok. Viewing the About 1.5km beyond the gompa towards
temples takes less than an hour each, but Sang, a long avenue of white prayer flags
the winding country lanes that link them is and flowers leads photogenically down to
a big part of the attraction, curving through the powder-blue Old Rumtek Gompa. De-
mossy forests high above river valleys and spite the name, the main prayer hall has
artistically terraced rice slopes. been thoroughly renovated. The interior is
a riotous festival of colour and the lonely
RUMTEK location is idyllic with some wonderful west-
% 03592 / ELEV 1690M
facing views. Two days before Losoong (Sik-
Facing Gangtok distantly across a vast green
kimese New Year), Old Rumtek holds the
valley, Rumtek village is entirely dominated
celebrated Kagyed Chaam dance.
by its extensive gompa complex. Spiritually
the monastery is hugely significant as the Lingdum Gompa MONASTERY
home in exile of Buddhisms Kagyu (Black (www.zurmangkagyud.org) Only completed in
Hat) sect. Visually it is not Sikkims most 1998, peaceful Lingdum Gompa is visually
THE KARMAPA CONTROVERSY 537
The Black Hat sect is so named because of the priceless ruby-topped headgear used to
crown the Karmapa (spiritual leader) during key ceremonies. Being woven from the hair
of dakinis (angels), the hat must be kept locked in a box to prevent it from flying back to
the heavens. Or at least thats the ocial line. Nobody has actually seen the hat since
1993, after the death of the 16th Karmapa.
Since then the Kagyu school has been embroiled in a bitter controversy between two
SIKKIM
E AST SIKKIM
rival candidates. The main candidate, Ogyen Trinley Dorje (www.kagyuoce.org), fled
Tibet in 2000 but currently remains based at Dharamsala: Indian authorities are believed
to have prevented him from ocially taking up his Rumtek seat for fear of upsetting Chi-
8 O WA R8D S T I B E T
T
nese government sensibilities. The rival candidate, Thaye Dorje (www.karmapa.org), lives
in nearby Kalimpong in West Bengal. Supporters of the two are locked in a legal dispute
over who can control Rumtek. To learn more about the controversy, read The Dance of 17
Lives by Mick Brown.
Only when the dispute is resolved and the 17th Karmapa is finally crowned will anyone
dare to unlock the box and check whether the sacred black hat is actually still there.
more exciting than Rumtek. Its structure 8 Getting There & Away
grows out of the forest in grand layers, Rumtek is 26km (1 hours) from Gangtok by a
with pleasant side gardens and a photoge- winding but scenic road. Lingdum Gompa is a
nic chorten. The extensively muralled main 2km walk from Ranga or Ranka village, reached
prayer hall enshrines huge statues of Sakya- by rough backlanes from Gangtok. Shared jeeps
muni (historic) Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and run to Rumtek (30) every hour or so, with the
the 16th Karmapa. Sonorous chanting at the last jeep returning to Gangtok between 2pm and
7.30am and 3.30pm puja (prayers/oerings) 3pm. A return taxi costs around 600. Linking
the two sites requires private transport (1000
adds to the magical atmosphere. Theres a
to 1200).
nice outdoor cafe by the entrance and an
interesting souvenir shop selling Buddhist
accessories and Tibetan cloth.
Towards Tibet
4 Sleeping & Eating TSOMGO (CHANGU, TSANGU) LAKE
Sungay Guesthouse HOTEL $ ELEV 3780M
(%252221; r 250-600) The friendly Tibetan Pronounced Changu, this scenic high-altitude
management make this a great alternative lake about three hours drive from Gangtok is
to rushing back to Gangtok. Rooms are a popular excursion for Indian visitors, but re-
comfortable and good value, with hot-water stricted area permits are required for foreign
bathrooms, and many come with balconies. visitors. To get one, sign up for a tour by 2pm
Its just inside Rumteks main entrance gate. and most Gangtok agents can get the permit
for next-day departure (two photos required).
Bamboo Retreat ECO RESORT $$
A budget tour will cost around 2600 to
(%252516; www.bambooretreat.in; Sajong; s/d incl 3500 per vehicle or 500 per person if you
breakfast & dinner from 3300/3900; W) This can get a group together.
Swiss-run rural resort just below Rumtek is At the lakeside, food stalls sell hot chai,
a destination in its own right. Theres plenty chow mein and momos, while short yak
to keep you busy, with mountain bikes for rides potter along the shore. If you can mus-
hire and guided hikes, or just relax with a ter the pu, the main attraction is clamber-
herbal bath and massage. The 12 colourful ing up a nearby hilltop for inspiring views.
rooms are all uniquely decorated. Culinary
highlights include an authentic Italian pizza NATHU LA
oven and Sikkimese food grown in the or- Indian citizens are permitted to continue
ganic garden. 18km along the spectacular road from
Sangay Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ Tsomgo Lake to the 4130m Nathu La
(%252238; d 350, s/d without bathroom (Listening Ears Pass), whose border opened
150/250,) A simple but decent budget with much fanfare in 2006 but to local
option just below Rumtek. trac only.
A few kilometres southeast of Nathu La,
538 Jelep La was the pass used by Francis Youn- NORTH SIKKIM TOUR
ghusband in the British Great Game-era TIPS
attack on Tibet (1903-04). Until 1962 Jelep
La was the main trade route between Ka- A group size of four or five people is
limpong and Lhasa, but it shows no signs of ideal for sharing costs while not overfill-
reopening. ing the jeep.
To find jeep-share partners, try ask-
SIKKIM N O R T H S I K K I M
SIKKIM
NORTH SIKKIM
sort under construction at time of writing.
Beyond Singhik YUMTHANG VALLEY
8 E YO N D8S I N G H I K
B
With relevant permits and an organised tour The main reason to come to Lachung is
you can continue north beyond Singhik. At to continue 23km further north to admire
Chungthang, the next settlement, the road the majestic Yumthang Valley, which starts
branches up the Lachung Chu and Lachen some 10km after leaving Lachung. This
Chu valleys. If you only have time to visit point is also the entry to the Singba Rhodo-
one valley, the Lachung Chu has the most dendron Sanctuary, whose network of hik-
impressive scenery. ing trails oers a welcome chance to get out
Accommodation is available in Lachung of the jeep. From March to early May a host
and Lachen, with some basic options in of primulas, 24 species of rhododendrons
Thanggu. We have listed a few favourites but and other flora bursts into flower to carpet
your tour agency will normally preselect for the valley floor.
you. Cheaper hotels tend to have a mixed At the Km23 point there are a number of
bag of rooms with prices the same whether snack shacks that open up in the high sea-
or not the room has geyser, shower, heating, son. Dont bother with the hot springs, a
window or balcony. Try to see a few dierent grimy, 2-sq-metre pool in a rubbish-ringed
rooms even if you cant choose your hotel. hut on the other side of the river. As the val-
LACHUNG
ley widens and flattens, the scenery becomes
% 3592 / ELEV 2630M 100% Himalayan, with jagged peaks, lush
Soaring rock-pinnacled valley walls embroi- pasturage and bridges draped with colour-
dered with long ribbons of waterfall sur- ful prayer flags.
round the scattered village of Lachung. To From Yumthang you can continue up
appreciate the full drama of its setting, take switchbacks for 14km onto the snowy pla-
the metal cantilever bridge across the wild teau of Yume Samdong (Zero Point) at a
Yumthang River to the Sanchok side then head-pounding 4640m, where a candelabra
climb 1.5km along the Katao road for great of jagged peaks rises towards Tibet. This is
views from the Lachung (Sarchok) Gompa as far as you can go. The road starts to get
(established 1880). The gompas refined mur- blocked by snow from mid-October.
als include one section of original paintings
LACHEN
(inner left wall as you enter) and its twin POP 2000 / ELEV 2700M
giant prayer wheels chime periodically. The traditional mountain village of Lachen
Over a dozen hotels are dotted around is changing fast with the construction of
Lachung. Many outwardly modern places concrete tourist hotels. Nonetheless, alley-
maintain traditional Tibetan-style wood-fire ways remain sprinkled with old wooden
kitchens that are a cosy place to linger over homes on sturdy stone bases and decorated
a butter tea or a tongba of chhang. Some of with colourful Tibetan-style window frames.
the better places: Logs are stacked everywhere for winter fuel.
Modern Residency (Taagsing Retreat; Lachen (Nyudrup Choeling) Gompa is
%214888; www.modernresidency.com; Singring about 15 minutes walk above the town and
village; d 2500) Rooms are comfortable and is most likely to be open early morning or
well decorated, though walk-in prices are late afternoon. At the beginning of town, be-
steep. Even if you dont stay, the gompa- side a giant cypress tree, is a huge mounted
style building 3km south of Lachung is prayer wheel and a spooky collection of geo-
worth visiting for its upper-floor mini- metric threads designed to trap evil spirits.
museum, library and bar. Staying here Lachen is the trailhead for eight-day ex-
is one advantage of booking a tour with peditionary treks to Green Lake (5050m)
Modern Treks & Tours in Gangtok. along the yeti-infested Zemu Glacier
towards Khangchendzongas northeast face. the other Buddhist, that face each other
540 These require long advance planning and across the town from opposite hillsides.
very expensive permits. There are several internet cafes in the
Most groups stay in either the Shangrila central pedestrianised plaza, along with an
Residency, Bayul Inn or Twin Peak Lodge, Axis Bank, two ancient bodhi and pipal trees
with rooms from around 500 to 800. A step and, oddly, a piranha aquarium.
up is the Lachen View Point (%9434867312;
r 1500-4000). Best of the bunch is the luxu- 1 Sights
SIKKIM S O U T H S I K K I M
SIKKIM
WEST SIKKIM
4000) This friendly family-run guesthouse is Jeep services are expected to move to a
an excellent option. All the rooms are spot- large new transport complex on the east
less and fresh, and most come with a balcony end of town. Until then, shared jeeps leave
and great views. The family grows its own regularly from next to the tourist oce
JSO
L EREEPTIS
organic vegetables and oers bird-watching for Darjeeling (100, two hours). Jeeps for
walks in 2.4 hectares of private jungle. Its Gangtok (110, four hours), Geyzing (60,
4km from town on the road to Solophuk.
HNLAGENE&
two hours), Namchi (40, one hour) and
Siliguri (100, three hours) leave from a
oSeven Hills Resort
GP EI(NN
RESORT $$ chaotic stand 100m east. For Nepal theres a
(%9647783038; www.sevenhillsresort.com; Phali- 7am jeep to Kakarbhitta (150, four hours).
AT
GAYA
dara; d 2800-3200) If its peace and quiet you Buy tickets before boarding.
I&
N GEBAT
want, head to this relaxing resort on a remote Jeeps for Tashiding (70, two hours) and
ridge, 7km northeast of Namchi. A dozen rustic
A ZI N
Yuksom (100, three hours) leave from a
but comfortable cottages with private balco- third stand just to the west of this one.
AGA R)
nies are dotted around gardens of passion- Less frequent and slower buses run
fruit, bamboo and orchids, and the views from the SNT bus station to Gangtok (85,
are superb. Warm up on cold evenings with 12.30pm), Namchi (24, noon), Pelling (50,
a glass of house-made rhododendron brandy. 2.30pm), Ravangla (45, noon) and Siliguri
Hotel Samdruptse HOTEL $$ (83, 9.30am)
(%264806; Jorethang Rd; d 600-1000) The
higher the room rate the better the
Khangchendzonga views from this decent WEST SIKKIM
but slightly scruy concrete place. The hotel
is 300m west of the centre, along the road Sikkims greatest tourist draw is simply star-
to Jorethang, and includes Namchis most ing at Khangchendzongas white-peaked
pleasant restaurant (mains 50 to 130). magnificence from Pelling ridge. Most visit-
ors then add excursions to nearby water-
Hotel Zimkhang HOTEL $
falls and monasteries, plus perhaps a spot
(%263625; s/d 300/450) An acceptable bud-
of walking. Some lovely hikes start from
get option in the main pedestrian plaza.
the charming village of Yuksom, which is
also the trailhead for multiday group treks
8 Getting There & Around to Dzongri and Goecha La (group trekking
Share jeeps leave frequently when full to Jor- permits required).
ethang (30, one hour) from near the Hotel
Samdruptse; to Ravangla (40, one hour) and
Gangtok (110, 3 hours) from the northwest
junction; and to Siliguri (120, three hours) from
Ravangla (Rabongla)
% 03595 / ELEV 2010M
a stand at the southern end of the pedestrian
mall. Services dry up around 3pm. Rapidly expanding Ravangla (Rabong) is
Buses leave from the ground floor of the huge spectacularly perched overlooking a wide
new transport complex on the east of town. There sweep of western Sikkim, the gompas of Old
are one or two departures each morning to Joreth- Ralang, Tashiding, Pemayangtse and Sanga-
ang (20), Ravangla (25) and Gangtok (80). choeling all distantly visible against a horizon
thats sawtoothed with snow-capped peaks.
The town has little aesthetic distinction,
Jorethang (Naya Bazaar) but is useful as a hub to visit the interest-
% 03595 / ELEV 520M ing surrounding sights. Joining the main
This bustling but charmless transport hub highway is Main Bazaar, a concentration of
between West Sikkim, Namchi and Darjeel- shops, cheap hotels, the jeep stand and the
ing/Siliguri is just a place to change jeeps. Cyber Cafe (per hr 30; h8.15am-7pm).
1 Sights Geyzing. Jeeps to Namchi (45, one hour) and
542 Mane Choekhorling Gompa MONASTERY Legship (40) leave from near Hotel 10-Zing.
Steps lead up from the end of Main Bazaar The SNT bus booking oce is part of Hotel
to this handsome new stone-and-wood 10-Zing. Buses run to Namchi (26, one hour,
gompa. The festival ground here is the site 9am and 1pm) and Siliguri (130 to 140, five
hours, 6.30am).
of the annual Pang Lhabsol festival (www
.panglhabsol.blogspot.com), held each August
in honour of Kanchendzonga. Chaam danc-
Around Ravangla
SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M
T Tours
Geyzing, Tikjuk & Legship Most hotels and travel agencies oer one-
% 03595 day tours. Popular options visit Yuksom
The following three towns have little to of- via Khecheopalri Lake and three waterfalls
fer a visitor apart from a permit extension (2000 to 2500 per jeepload) or combine
SIKKIM
WEST SIKKIM
at Tikjuk and transport changes at Geyzing. Khecheopalri Lake, Pemayangtse Gompa
Geyzing is West Sikkims capital, but for per- and Rabdentse (1800 to 2000).
mit extensions you need Tikjuk, half way to Hotel Garuda (%258319; Upper Pelling; tours
Pelling. per day per jeep 1800) Half-day tours to Khe-
TO
G EU
Tikjuk is the District Administrative Cen- cheopalri Lake cost 1200; to Pemayangtse
Y ZRISNTO
tre for West Sikkim. Permits can be extend- and Rabdentse costs an extra 600.
ed at the Superintendent of Police office
G ,UTRISK J U K & L EG S H I P
Hotel Kabur (%258504; deepesh83@yahoo.
(Side wing, 3rd fl; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd
co.in; Upper Pelling; day tours 2000) Local
Sat of month).
tours and more; ask about the treks
Apart from its vaguely interesting Sunday
from Ribdi.
market, Geyzing is most useful as West Sik-
kims transport hub. Frequent shared jeeps
go to Jorethang (60, 1 hours), Legship 4 Sleeping
(25, 30 minutes), Pelling (25, 20 minutes), Most of Pellings hotels cater primarily to
Tashiding (60, 1 hours) and Yuksom (70, midrange domestic tourists. Rates typically
2 hours). Several serve Gangtok (140, sev- drop 30% in low season and are highly nego-
en to nine hours, 7am to 12.30pm), Ravangla tiable during low occupancy.
(68, one hour, 9am and 11.45am) and Sili- Hotel Garuda HOTEL $
guri (150, four hours, 7am and 12.30pm). (%258319; Upper Pelling; dm 100, r 250-600, de-
When no other transport is available, es- luxe 900-1100; i) A well-run backpacker fa-
pecially to or from Tashiding, try connecting vourite, with clean, spacious rooms, all with
at Legship. Should you get stranded, Hotel hot shower and TV, good Khangchendzonga
Trishna (%250887; d/tr 200/300) is simple, views and a good-value restaurant ideal for
with private bathrooms, bucket hot water hooking up with other travellers. The owner
and a rooftop terrace. is very knowledgable about the region and
Just 5km south of Legship, across the riv- oers guests a handy schematic guide map.
er, the Phursangchu hot springs and Guru
Rinpoche cave are worth a quick stop if you Hotel Kabur HOTEL $
have your own transport. (%258504; deepesh83@yahoo.co.in; Upper Pelling;
r 150-600) Entry is via the top floor, which is
a delightful restaurant backed by a verandah
Pelling that looks out onto the mountains. Rooms
% 03595 / ELEV 2085M have towels, soap, toilet paper and heaters in
Pellings raison dtre is its stride-stopping winter all usually absent in rooms of this
view of Khangchendzonga at dawn. Its not price, though rooms without a view can be
so much a town as a 2km string of tourist ho- dark and cold. If you need to know some-
tels, but dont be put o. The view is worth it. thing, do something or go somewhere, the
Despite hordes of visitors, locals remain sur- owners Deepen and his identical twin Deep-
prisingly unjaded, and the best budget hotels esh are the people to ask (even if youre never
are great for meeting fellow travellers. The quite sure which one youre talking to!).
helipad to the west of the centre gives mag-
Norbu Ghang Resort HERITAGE HOTEL $$$
nificent panoramic views, especially at dawn.
(%258272; www.norbughangresort.com; Upper
Pelling is nominally divided into Upper,
Pelling; s/d from 2800/3000; aW) A spread of
Middle and Lower areas, though these eec-
pretty cottages (some private, some duplexes)
tively merge. A focal point of Upper Pelling
dots the hillside of this resort. Most have fine
is a small roundabout where the main road
views, so you can savour the dawn views from
from Geyzing turns 180 degrees in front of
the toasty-warm comfort of your own bed.
Hotel Garuda. At the same point, minor
An afternoon beer on the lawn is another
544 Pelling e
# 00 200 m
0.1 miles Pelling
A B
To Yuksom Activities, Courses & Tours
(36km) 1 Hotel Garuda........................................B2
#4
2 Hotel Kabur ..........................................B2
1 #8
1
# 13
Sleeping
3 Hotel Parodzong..................................A2
SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M
Transport
highlight. A second Norbu Ghang resort and
11 Father Tours ........................................B2
spa is under construction behind this one.
12 Shared Jeeps to Geyzing ....................B2
Elgin Mount Pandim HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ 13 SNT Counter (Hotel Pelling)............... A1
(%250756; www.elginhotels.com; s/d incl full board
5600/5900; ai) Pellings most historic hotel
is a five-minute stroll from Pemayangtse gom- Melting Point MULTICUISINE $
pa, with arguably the best mountain views in (Middle Pelling; mains 60-110) Its a short stroll
all of Sikkim. The fairy godmother of renova- downhill to this friendly restaurant, which
tion has been generous with the parlour-room oers cosy indoor seating or excellent ter-
wicker and antiques and the Aussie-Tibetan race views. The wide menu ranges from
managers add a personal warmth to the el- baked potatoes to Sikkimese fixed meals
egant charm. Request a mountain-view room. (350; ordered in advance). Theres 20% dis-
count between 5pm and 7pm.
Hotel Sonamchen HOTEL $$
(%258346; sonamchen07@yahoo.com; s/d from 8 Information
1000/1200) The rooms here cant deliver
Paylink Cyber Zone (per hr 50; h8am-7pm)
on the expectations created by the ornately
Just below Hotel Kabur.
decorated lobby but most do have superb
SBI ATM Opposite the Hotel Garuda.
Khangchendzonga views, with rates de-
creasing in price as you descend the floors. Tourist office (% 9434630876; h9am-5pm)
The standard rooms with balcony oer the
best value. 8 Getting There & Away
Pelling has over 80 hotels. Other options: SNT buses run to Siliguri (135, four hours, 7am)
Touristo Hotel HOTEL $$ via Jorethang (40, 2 hours); book at the SNT
(%258206; Lower Pelling; d 500-1000) Only counter (Hotel Pelling) in Lower Pelling from
the best rooms have good Khangchend- where the buses depart.
zonga views. Father Tours (%258219; Upper Pelling) runs
shared jeeps at 7am for Gangtok (200, five
Hotel Rabdentse Residency HOTEL $$ hours) and Siliguri (200, 4 hours).
(%258612; www.saikripa.in; Lower Pelling; d If nothing is available ex-Pelling, change in
from 850-1050, ste 1800-3300) Downstairs Geyzing. Shared jeeps to Geyzing (25, 20 min-
behind the Touristo, with some views and utes) leave frequently from near the Hotel Ga-
a good restaurant. ruda, passing close to Pemayangtse, Rabdentse
and Tikjuk district administrative centre.
5 Eating & Drinking For Khecheopalri Lake (60) or Yuksom (60)
Pellings best dining is in the hotels. The jeeps start from Geyzing, passing through Pelling
Norbu Ghang, Garuda, Kabur and Rabden- between noon and 1pm. The Kabur and Garuda
tse Residency are the best bets.
hotels can book seats for you, or simply join a Rock), supposedly the scene of an epic Ra-
day-trip tour and throw away the return ticket. mayana battle between Rama and 10-head- 545
ed demon king Ravana. Arrange a guide
(300 to 400) from the Kabur or Garuda
Around Pelling hotels.
PEMAYANGTSE GOMPA
Literally translated as Perfect Sublime Lo-
tus, the 1705 Pemayangtse gompa (Indian/ The Monastery Loop
SIKKIM
WEST SIKKIM
foreigner 10/20; h7am-5pm) is one of Sik- Day-long and overnight jeep tours from Pel-
kims oldest and most significant Nying- ling take in the major sights here, or you
mapa gompas. Magnificently set on a hilltop can do a great adventurous three-day trip
8 R O U N8D P E L L I N G
A
(2100m) overlooking the Rabdentse ruins, from Pelling to Tashiding via Khecheopalri
the atmospheric compound is ringed by Lake, using a combination of jeeps and hik-
gardens and traditional cottages used by the ing. Alternatively, consider catching a ride
resident monks. The ground floor features to wonderful Yuksom via Khecheopalri Lake
a central Buddha, while upstairs fierce-look- using tour jeeps and hiking from there to
ing statues depict all eight reincarnations Tashiding.
of Padmasambhava. On the top floor is an
astounding seven-tiered model represent- PELLING TO YUKSOM
ing Padmasambhavas heavenly abode of Tourist jeeps stop at several relatively
Zangtok Pelri, handmade over five laborious lacklustre time-filler sites. Rimbi and
years by a single dedicated lama. Khangchendzonga Falls are best after
During February/March impressive rains while Phamrong Falls are impressive
chaam dances celebrating Losar culminate any time. Although its several kilometres up
with the unfurling of a huge gyoku (giant a dead-end spur road, virtually all Yuksom-
embroidered thangka) and the zapping of bound tours visit Khecheopalri, dropping
evil demons with a great fireball. you for about half an hour at a car park five
Pemayangtse is 1.5km from Upper Pel- minutes walk from the little lake.
ling, along the road to Geyzing, and is eas- Pronounced catch-a-perry, the holy
ily combined with a visit to Rabdentse. The Khecheopalri Lake (1950m) is highly re-
signposted turn-o is near an obvious stupa. vered by both Sikkimese Buddhists and
RABDENTSE Lepcha animists who believe that birds as-
The royal capital of Sikkim from 1670 to siduously remove any leaves from its sur-
1814, the now-ruined Rabdentse (admission face. During Khecheopalri Mela (March/
free; hdawn-dusk) consists of chunky wall- April), butter lamps are floated out across
stubs with a few inset inscription stones. the lake. Prayer wheels line the lakes jetty,
These would look fairly unremarkable were which is backed by fluttering prayer flags
they not situated on such an utterly fabulous and Tibetan inscriptions, but the setting,
viewpoint ridge. The entrance to the site is ringed with forested hills, is serene rather
around 3km from Upper Pelling, along the than dramatic. The best way to appreciate
road to Geyzing. The ruins are a 10-minute the site is to stay overnight and visit once
walk from the sites yellow gateway. As the the tourists have left.
sign says, Do not get tired. Great excitement Around the car park is a Buddhist nun-
is awaiting! nery, a couple of shops and the simple
SANGACHOELING GOMPA
The second-oldest gompa in all of Sikkim,
charming Sangachoeling has some beauti-
ful murals and a peaceful ridgetop setting. If you are headed to or from Pema-
Its a steep 2km walk from Pelling starting yangtse Monastery, pop into the Lotus
along the dirt track that veers left where the Bakery (cake 25-30; h8am-5pm), 15
asphalted road rises to Pellings new helipad. minutes walk above Pelling, for a re-
A huge statue of Chenresig, the Buddhist Bo- storative slice of carrot or banana cake.
dhissatva of Compassion, is currently under All money raised goes to the nearby
construction just behind the monastery Denjong Pema Choling Academy.
A jungle trek continues 10km beyond
Sangachoeling to Rani Dhunga (Queens
Jigme Restaurant serving tea and chow the throne is a spooky footprint fused into
546 mein. From the car park a path to the left the stone, believed to be that of one of the
leads uphill for 20 minutes to Khecheopalri crowning lamas: you can see a distinct im-
Gompa and stupa, high above the lake. A pression of sole and toes.
hiking trail from here leads up for a couple Walking up to Norbugang Park past Hotel
of hours to the Duphuk meditation cave and Tashi Gang youll pass the murky prayer-flag-
viewpoint, where the outline of the lake be- lined Kathok Lake, from which anointing
low looks like a footprint. There are other waters were taken for the original coronation.
SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M
lama is Palas Guest House (%9832471253; When Yuksom was Sikkims capital, a royal
per person incl 3 meals 300), with more rooms palace complex known as Tashi Tenka sat
available at next-door Sonams nicer an- on a ridge to the south with superb almost
nexe. The wooden rooms are simple, but 360-degree views. Today barely a stone re-
its a great opportunity to slow things down mains but the views are still superb. To find
a bit, do some hiking and even learn some the site head south out of town and take the
meditation. small uphill path marked by two weathered
Deepen Pradhan also operates a good stupas near the school football pitch. The
homestay (%9735945598; per person incl one site is 10 minutes walk away through the
meal 450), five minutes walk away; for de- charming village of Gupha Dara.
tails ask at the Kabur Hotel in Pelling. Dubdi Gompa MONASTERY
Shared jeeps to Geyzing (70, two hours) High on the ridge above Yuksom, Dubdi
leave the parking lot at 6am, travelling via (Hermits Cell) Gompa is set in beautifully
Pelling. tended gardens behind three coarsely hewn
A hiking trail to Yuksom (9km, three to stupas. Established in 1701, it is said to be
five hours) leaves the road about 400m be- Sikkims oldest monastery, though the cur-
fore the car park and descends steeply in rent chapel looks much newer. Start the
90 minutes to the main road (take the right steep 40-minute climb from upper Yuksoms
branch after crossing the Runom Khola primary health centre; the clear path rises
river), emerging near the Khangchendzonga through thickets of trumpet lilies and some
Falls. After the road suspension bridge, fol- lovely mature forest.
low the concrete steps uphill to meet the
Yuksom road, about 2km below Yuksom Kathok Wodsallin Gompa MONASTERY
village. Alternatively hitch a ride (30) once Yuksom has two photogenic new gompas.
you get to the road. Kathok Wodsallin Gompa, near Hotel Tashi
Gang, has an impressively stern statue of
YUKSOM Guru Padmasambhava surrounded by a col-
% 03595 / ELEV 1780M
lection of yogis, gurus and lamas in glass-
Loveable little Yuksom is historic, charming
fronted compartments. The entry is up a
and unspoilt. Domestic tourists avoid it as
path opposite the Tashigang Hotel.
it lacks the mountain views and it hasnt
become a travellers ghetto like Hampi or Ngadhak Changchub
Manali. The town is the main trailhead for Choling Gompa MONASTERY
the treks towards Mt Khangchendzonga. This other new and similarly colourful
gompa is accessed through an ornate gate-
1 Sights way opposite Hotel Yangri Gang. The main
Norbugang Park SACRED SITE
statue is of an 11-headed Chenresig, the Bod-
Yuksom means meeting place of the three hissatva of Compassion.
lamas, referring to the trio of Tibetan holy
men who crowned the first chogyal of Sik- 2Activities
kim here in 1641. The charming site is now Several trekking agencies in Yuksom can
Norbugang Park, which contains a small organise a Khangchendzonga trek given a
temple, huge mani khorlo (prayer wheel), couple of days warning. Prices start around
chorten (stupa) and the supposedly original US$40 per person per day assuming a group
Coronation Throne (Norbugang). Standing of four. The best:
beneath a vast cryptomeria pine, it looks Alpine Exodus Tours & Travel TREKKING
something like an ancient Olympic podium (%9735087508; nawang.bhutia@gmail.com; Hotel
made of whitewashed stone. Just in front of Yangri Gang)
Desire Earth Treks & Expeditions TREKKING turning trekkers in need of a hot shower and
(%9733052919; www.trekinsikkim.com) Next to a splash of decadence. 547
Hotel Pemathang
Hotel Yangri Gang HOTEL $
Mountain Tours and Treks TREKKING
(%241217; d 500-800, without bathroom 300;
(%9641352656; www.sherpatreks.in) i) The basement rooms are functional
4 Sleeping & Eating concrete cubes, but the upstairs options are
airy with clean wooden floors, wooden half-
Foreign trekking groups often book out the
panelling and good hot showers. Its a good
SIKKIM
WEST SIKKIM
Tashi Gang and Yuksom Residency hotels so
upper budget option favoured by trekkers.
its wise to make reservations for these plac-
es. Khangchendzonga Conservation Commit- 5 Eating
tee (p547) arranges homestays (per person full Gupta Restaurant
8HE MO
T
MULTICUISINE $
board 500-700), oering travellers the chance (mains 35-90; h5am-9pm) Beers, curries, piz-
to connect with locals, eat local food and za, breakfasts and almost anything else you
8 N A S T E R Y LO O P
even share in chores like milking the cows. could dream up (including quesadillas!) are
Hotel Demazong HOTEL $
available in this popular backpacker cafe.
(%9775473687; dm 80-100, r 500, without bath-
Sit outside at the sociable thatched cabana
room 200) The concrete exterior isnt exactly
or keep warm in the cosy interior. The next-
charming but the rooms here are spacious, door Yak Restaurant is similar but has a
clean and decent value, making this the smaller menu.
most popular budget option. 8Information
For guided groups with permits, Yuksom is The return is by essentially the same route.
the starting point of Sikkims classic seven- Alternatively at Dzongri you could cut south
to 10-day trek to Goecha La, a 4940m pass for about a week following the Singalila
with quite fabulous views of Khangchend- Ridge along the NepalSikkim border to
zonga. emerge at Uttarey, from where public trans-
Trek costs start at US$40 to US$60 per port runs to Jorethang.
person per day (assuming a group of four), There are government-run trekkers
including food, guides, porters and yaks. You huts at Baktim, Tsokha, Dzongri, Kokchu-
have to arrange your trek through a trekking rong and Thangsing, but most have neither
agency, who will sort out the permits. Paper- furniture nor mattresses and huts some-
work must be done in Gangtok but, given times get booked out with noisy student
two or three days, agents in Pelling or Yuk- groups during high season. Its far better to
som can organise things by sending a fixer bring all camping equipment and food.
to the capital for you.
TASHIDING
Dont underestimate the rigours of the ELEV 1490M
trek. Dont hike too high too quickly: altitude Little Tashiding is just a single, sloping mar-
sickness often strikes those who are fittest ket street forking north o the Yuksom
and fastest. Starting early makes sense, as Legship road, but its south-facing views are
rain is common in the afternoons, spoiling wide and impressive.
views and making trail sections annoyingly Walking 400m south from the junction
muddy. Check all your equipment before set- towards Legship takes you down past a
ting o, making sure there are enough good- series of mani walls with bright painted
quality sleeping bags to go around. Bring a mantras to a colourful gateway. A 2.5km
torch (flashlight). For full details of the trek
see Lonely Planets Trekking in the Indian
Himalaya.
KHANGCHENDZONGA TREK
March to May is an ideal time to trek.
SCHEDULE
By the end of May the monsoon rains have
started to arrive. Clearest skies are from
October to December, when snow starts to STAGE ROUTE DURATION
block the trails. 1 Yuksom to Tsokha, 6-7 hr
The route initially follows the Rathong via Baktim
Valley through unspoilt forests then ascends 2 Optional acclimati- 1 day
steeply to Baktim (Bakhim; 2750m) and the sation day at Tsokha
rustic Tibetan village of Tsokha (3050m), 3 Tsokha to Dzongri 4-5 hr
established in 1969 by Tibetan refugees and
the last village on the trail, where spending 4 Acclimatisation day 1 day
two nights helps with acclimatisation. at Dzongri, or con-
The next stage climbs to pleasant mead- tinue to Kokchurong
ows around Dzongri (4020m). Consider an- 5 Dzongri (or Kokchu- 6-7 hr
other acclimatisation day here spent stroll- rong) to Lamuni, via
ing up to Dzongri La (4550m, four-hour Thangsing
round-trip) for fabulous views of Mt Pandim 6 Lamuni to Goecha 8-9 hr
(6691m). La, then down to
From Dzongri, the trail drops steeply Thangsing
to Kokchurong then follows the river to 7 Thangsing to 6-7 hr
Thangsing (3930m). Trekkers have rec- Tsokha
ommended spending an extra day here
to visit the beautiful lake at Lampokhari, 8 Tsokha to Yuksom 5-6 hr
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
uphill driveable track (and much shorter mani padme hum; at the back of the com-
footpath) leads to a car park from where pound is the engravers lean-to. 549
a footpath leads up between an avenue of In January or February, the monastery
prayer flags to the atmospheric Nyingmapa- celebrates the Bumchu festival during
school Tashiding Gompa, about 30 minutes which lamas gingerly open a sacred pot.
walk away. Then, judging from the level of holy water
Founded in 1641 by one of the three Yuk- within, they make all-important predictions
som lamas (see p546), the monasterys five about the coming year.
SIKKIM
WEST SIKKIM
colourful religious buildings are strung out The central wooden Mt Siniolchu Guest
between more functional monks quarters. House (%243211; r without bathroom 200) is a
Notice the giant-sized prayer wheel with basic but friendly budget option. Concrete
Tibetan script picked out in gilt. Beautifully New Tashiding Lodge (%243249; tr without
8HE MO
T
proportioned, the four-storey main prayer bathroom 300-350), 300m south of the mar-
hall has a delicate filigree topknot, with ket, has fine views from Rooms 3, 4 and 5 and
8 N A S T E R Y LO O P
wonderful views across the semi-wild flower even better ones from the shared bathroom.
garden towards Ravangla. The Dalai Lama Yatri Niwas (%9832623654; kabirbista@
chose the magical spot for a two-day medita- yahoo.com; s/d 1000/1200) is an excellent mid-
tion retreat in 2010. range place down at the base of town by the
Beyond the last monastic building, an un- turn-o to the monastery, oering spacious
usual compound contains dozens of white rooms, lovely gardens and a good restaurant.
chortens, including the Thongwa Rangdol, Shared jeeps to Gangtok (130, four
said to wash away the sins of anyone who hours), Jorethang (70, two hours) and
gazes upon it. Smaller but more visually Geyzing (60, 1 hours) leave from the
exciting is the golden Kench Chorgi Lorde main junction between 6.30am and 8am.
stupa. Propped up all around are engraved A few jeeps to Yuksom pass through during
stones bearing the Buddhist mantra om early afternoon.
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
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to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
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