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1. Stitch Classes
2. Stitches per inches (SPI)
3. Thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
4. Thread tension
5. Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)
Step 1: To calculate thread ratio, you need sewing machine, fabric and
sewing thread that will be used for bulk production. For fabric and thread
you can take similar thickness and same thread count in case actual is not
available.
Step 2: Sew a seam of 12 cms long and take 10 cms seam out of it by
trimming 1 cm from both edges.
Step 3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam.
Remove crimp from the unraveled thread and measure its length in cm.
Generally it will be higher than the seam length. Now find the multiplying
factor by dividing thread length with seam length. Assume unravelled
needle thread length is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying factor is
12.5/10 or 1.25.
Using this method you can find out any types of machines thread
consumption factors.
For quick reference you can follow the following thread consumption
ratios. Source: Coats thread consumption guide.
If you want to refer ready made thread consumption factors then go to the
following links. Coats thread consumption bulletin or American & Efird
Inc., thread consumption.
How to measure fabric consumption of garments?
Like other business, garment factory is set for profit generation. Profit can be
improved by saving from each cost factors of garment making. Fabric is most
important constitute of garment and it represent around 60-70% of total product
manufacturing cost. Fabric cost of a product depends how much fabric is consumed
to make the garment including cut wastes and end bits. So fabric consumption must
to be calculated accurately.
Most of the Indian apparel factories fabric consumption is made by pattern masters.
Rest of the employees do not bother how it is done. If you have product technical
sheet then you can calculate the exact fabric consumption of a garment. Average
fabric consumption also depends on nature of the fabric, like tubular or open width
fabric. Whether fabric is solid coloured, check or stripe or any specific design repeat
required. In following one example has been shown with formula for better
clarification about the calculation.
Basic formula:
To estimate fabric consumption for a knitted top use following formula.
Where,
C= Chest +allowance
L= length of the body measure + allowance
SL= Sleeve length +Allowance
B=Biceps +allowance
GSM = fabric weight in grams per square meter
Example: Product - knitted top. Garments components are front, back and sleeves.
Note: The above formula will give you only weight of fabric that is consumed by a
garment. In the above formula, I did not included fabric loss due to fabric width,
marker loss and fabric wastage (such as end loss, end bits, defects). When you
purchase fabric you have to consider all of these parameter.
Fabric utilization:
It means how much fabric is being utilized in cutting for garment patterns out of total
fabric laid for cutting. Generally, fabric constitutes 60% to 70% of the total garment
cost. So, through effective fabric utilization factory can save lot of money from fabric.
Step 1: Measure the lay length (A) or marker length that should be used in bulk
cutting. Suppose fabric width is 1.2 meters. Collect the information of fabric GSM
(Grams per square meter).
Fabric Weight = Fabric width X Lay Length X GSM X No. of plies (You can also
calculate taking multiple lays) or 1.2A*GSM * no. of plies
Step 3: Cut the patterns and collect all waste fabric and weigh waste (C). Normally
includes ends losses, cut waste.
Step 5: Fabric utilization% = Weight of cut panels (D)/Total weight of the lay
(B)*100%
For the accuracy you can do this exercise with multiple lays and take average of
them.
Inseam = 34 inch,
Thai= 13 inch,
Back rise (Under West Band) =15 Inch
Waist band width =1.5 inch,
Back pocket length = 7 inch,
Back pocket Width = 6.5 inch
Belt Loop length =1.5 inch,
Belt Loop Width = 1/2 inch
Pocket Bag Length = 7.5 inch
Pocket Bag Width = 6.5 inch
Calculation: - In Here
Total Bottom Length = Inseam + Back rise + Wbw + Sewing allowance.( Wbw =West
band width )
= Result + 5 % Wastage
= Yds / Doz
Main Fabric Consumption :- (55 Inch X 15 Inch) X 4 Pcs /57 inch X 36 Inch +
Wastage 5% X 12 Pcs
= 0.56 Yds / Dz
For Pocketing Fabric :- Length =7 .5 inch X 2 Ply +1 inch (SA )=( 15+1) inch = 16
inch