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Scottish Highlands
Into the countryside of
Macbeth and Nessie Stonehenge
to the Globe
Our obsession with
round buildings
The town shaped by
Norman Conquest
Maritime heritage
Liverpools legacy
Cavalier spirit
English Civil War in Newark

Somerset Levels
Wonderful wildlife, myths 4.50

and a famous music festival

PLUS Top five British beaches; Amy Johnson, heroine of the skies; tennis at Eastbourne
the code
on our website
to receive
10% discountle
best availab
room rates

Style History Elegance Sophistication

Exuding modern luxury with a historic twist, the Courthouse Hotel London is one of the most unique 5-star hotels In London.
Once a famous magistrates court, the hotel seamlessly blends quirky original fixtures with contemporary design features
throughout 116 rooms and suites. Experience the vibrant Soho Sky Terrace or VIP prison cells in The Bar, dine at the
Michelin-recommended Silk restaurant in the former no.1 courtroom or the colourful Carnaby brasserie and unwind in style
with a private screening in the 94-seat cinema or an exotic spa treatment at Sanook Spa.

19-21 Great Marlborough St., London W1F 7HL I Tel: +44 (0) 20 7297 5555 I Fax: +44 (0) 20 7297 5566
J U N E / J U LY 2 015





24 60

Stephen Moss visits this rolling
landscape of diverse beauty CUNARD LINE ANNIVERSARY As the tennis season begins, why
David Atkinson visits Liverpool to explore its not take in the action from a
courtside spot at Devonshire Park

maritime history and mark the 175th anniversary
of Cunards transatlantic liners Lawn Tennis Club. Plus, enter our

competition to win a three-night
break in Eastbourne with Centre
BARBOUR Court tickets to the tennis
Discover enduring designs as we

take a closer look at the history of
this celebrated clothing brand

Nottinghamshires newest visitor
Sheena Harvey uncovers tales of
Norman Conquest, an
CIRCULAR BUILDINGS attraction, the National Civil War imposing fortress and scenes
Nik Rawlinson admires Englands painted by JMW Turner around
round buildings from Stonehenge Centre, defines the events of this the ancient Yorkshire market
to Shakespeares Globe historic English conflict town of Richmond JUNE/JULY 2015 | 3

J U N E / J U LY 2 015

Contentss WIN

Windsor Castles Waterloo
exhibition, top beaches to laze
upon and Sir Edward Heaths Try and spot Nessie from Urquhart
former home, Arundells Castle on the edge of Loch Ness

The latest books and
DVDs on Britain

Home to countless castles, the
Cairngorms National Park and THE INTERN
a malt whisky trail, why not? Helen Ochyra joins viticulturist
Jac Evans at Llaethliw

vineyard in West Wales,
where award-winning wines
are produced and enjoyed
Our selection of things to see
and do, from Loch Ness to
Culloden Battlefield

87 Remembering the bravery
of pioneering aviator Amy
Johnson CBE, the first woman
tto complete a solo flight from
Win a luxury two-night break Britain to Australia
for two at The Grant Arms

Hotel in the Highlands







It is difcult to pin down why Lundy

Island has such an effect on people...
It is true that Lundy is different from any other island and that it is in a wonderful part of the
country, situated off the coast of North Devon.
Why not take a short break and stay in one of Lundys lovingly restored buildings.
These offer visitors an extraordinary range in which to stay, from a thirteenth century castle, a late
Georgian gentlemans residence, Lighthouse, Admiralty Lookout and Fishermans Chalet. In all twenty
three individual properties are available. Summer is a gorgeous time to visit the island of Lundy.
We have now made it easier to do so by having shorter summer breaks, as well as weekly stays.
The Voyage to Lundy Is on the Islands own passenger and supply vessel,
MS Oldenburg, carrying both day and staying visitors from Bideford or Ilfracombe.
MS Oldenburg is a handsome and graceful vessel, fast and comfortable.
The ship sails three times a week during the summer season.

For further information & bookings

Tel: 01271 863636 or visit
Editors Note

Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham,

Gloucestershire GL50 1BB
Tel: 01242 264 754

Editor Sheena Harvey
Deputy Editor Vicky Sartain
Staff Writer Angharad Moran
Art Editor Jeremy Bird
Account Manager Daniel Martin that make up Great Britain has been defined by
Tel: 01242 264 781;
Account Manager Amy Stokes
struggles for supremacy between internal political
Tel: 01242 264 785; factions, from the clans of Scotland to the gentry
Managing Director Paul Dobson
of the English counties. These wars have left their
Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross legacy across the land in the form of
Commercial Director Vicki Gavin
Publisher Simon Temlett evocative battlefields and castles that
Digital Marketing Manager James Dobson
Circulation Manager William Delmont have nothing to do with defending our
ONLINE people from invading outsiders.
Digital Product Manager Oliver Morley-Norris
Digital Marketing Co-ordinator Andreea Dragoi In this issue we visit the sites of some
Digital Executive Scarlett Lill
Digital Marketing Executive Jennifer Cruickshank
of these major conflicts. Representing
PRINTING the 11th-century disputes between the
William Gibbons Ltd
supporters of the new Norman regime
UK Discover Britain, CDS Global, Sovereign Park, Market and those of the old Anglo-Saxon
Harborough LE16 9EF
Tel: 0844 848 8053, Fax: 01858 434 958
nobility, there is Richmond Castle (see page 66).
Subscription rates: Subscribe for one year for 33 The struggle between the Royalists and the
(6 issues) or for two years (12 issues) for 66
Cavaliers in the English Civil War is epitomised by
4.50. Tel: 020 7349 3700 Charles Is stronghold of Newark, Nottinghamshire,
The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House,
with its mighty castle. This was ordered to be
2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ destroyed by Oliver Cromwell but still has walls
Tel: 020 7349 3700, Fax: 020 7349 3701
Email: standing today. A new museum has now opened to
Printed in England ISSN 0950-5245
commemorate those times (turn to page 34).
News distribution: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London
EC1A 9PT. Tel: 020 7429 4000 The Somerset Levels, that famous haven of
The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2015. All rights
wildlife and location of the mystical Glastonbury
reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must
not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The Tor, also hosted the last pitched battle on English
information in Discover Britain has been published in good
faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. soil, between the armies of the Catholic King James
However, where appropriate, you are advised to check prices,
opening times and dates, etc, before making final arrangements. II and his Protestant illegitimate nephew, the Duke
All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage
caused by reliance on the information within this publication is of Monmouth (see page 24).
hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by the contributors of
Discover Britain are not necessarily those of the publisher.
Further forward in time and much further north
we visit the Highlands around Inverness for the site
of the very last battle to be fought on British soil
between the exhausted Jacobite forces of Bonnie
Prince Charlie and the much fresher troops of the
English Duke of Cumberland in 1746 (see page 85).

On the cover:
Dundon Hill, Compton SHEENA HARVEY Editor
Dundon on the

Somerset Levels, seen

from Gilling Down.
Photo by Stephen
Spraggon/Alamy JUNE/JULY 2015 | 7


Your words
Let us know your thoughts on the magazine. The writer of each letter published receives a prize

Although Ive
been hugely
enjoying the
BBCs new series
of Poldark, I had
no idea one of
the main filming
locations can
be found in the
county where I
live until I read
an article on
your website!
I was amazed to read about Fair Isle (The Fairest Isle It was lovely to read about the
as Poldarks history of the Landmark Trust
of All, April/May 2015) and the small community Trenwith, www. and the interesting collection of
of people living there. The images in your magazine discoverbritain buildings it cares for (Landmark
made it look like an island paradise but Im not sure Its a Occasion, April/May 2015). My
I could live such a cut-off lifestyle, nor would I have shame the house husband and I have already
isnt open to stayed in a couple of the
the skills that the islanders seem to have in turning
visitors all year Landmark Trusts holiday lets
their hand to whatever task faces them! They must round, but I will and we will hopefully be adding
be commended for their community spirit, but be making a trip to that list before too long
Im sure the beauty of the island outweighs the there soon. with a stay at one of its smaller
difficulties of living in such a place. JANET HARDING, properties in Wales.
even more places with a huge
amount of history behind them
VITAL STATISTICS are about to be saved by the
You reported that the Duke and Trust, as we might otherwise lose
Duchess of Cambridge have spent these charming sites to more
an estimated 1.5m putting their modern developments.
stamp on their new home (A Royal MRS D JENKINS, POOLE
Address, February/March 2015). The

UK Department for Communities and

Local Government reported 13,900 HEROIC PRESUMPTION
statutorily homeless households I enjoyed the new page at the
1 July 30 September 2014. back of your magazine about
Something is wrong with priorities! great British adventurers
DR S SCHOEMAN, NEW JERSEY, USA (Dr Livingstone, I presume,
April/May 2015). I presume (hope)
From the editor: Email us with your thoughts at you will be covering more heroic
Follow us on Facebook at and Twitter at figures in future issues.

Email: Get in touch at:

Write: Please write to Letters to the Editor, Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
We welcome your letters, but reserve the right to edit them. Please include a daytime telephone number and, if emailing, a postal address (this will not be published).

8 | JUNE/JULY 2015

The latest news, tours, discoveries and places to visit


Rare devotional panel
now on display at
Museum of London
Archaeologists from MOLA
(Museum of London
Archaeology) have discovered a
medieval panel in remarkable
condition by the River Thames.
The Thomas, Earl of Lancaster
panel depicts the capture, trial
and execution of this political
rebel turned martyr, who tried
to force Edward II to reform his
government. After Thomass
execution in 1322 miracles
began to take place around
his tomb.
GRAND PLANS The panel, cast in metal and
approx 130mm x 90mm, is a
New Alexandra Park and Palace redevelopment project will focus on fascinating piece of political
propaganda and religious art.
areas of the historic palace that have been derelict for over 30 years Sophie Jackson, MOLA
archaeologist, says: Its thanks
The Victorian theatre and BBC Studios at Alexandra Palace are just two to the wet ground of the
of the areas that will be regenerated with the help of new funding. Thames waterfront that this
The BBC studios were the birthplace of high-definition television beautiful metal object survived
in such remarkable condition. It
broadcasts in 1936 and will now be turned into an interactive attraction reveals a great deal about the
where visitors can learn more about the art of making TV programmes. political climate of the day.
The Palaces Victorian hidden theatre dates back to 1875 and is set to The panel is now on display at
the Museum of London until 28
play host to theatrical performances and cinema screenings once the new September 2015.
project is completed in 2018.


Golden opportunity
A new 7.7m visitor centre will include the creation of an
interactive museum experience that will explore The Royal
Mints prestigious history. Visitors will also be able to take a
unique tour of the facility, the first time the site has ever
officially opened its doors to the public in its 1,100-year history.
Among highlights of the purpose-built centre will be the
chance to strike your own coin. The project is due to be
completed in spring 2016. JUNE/JULY 2015 | 11


In brief
War paint
A collection of humorous cartoons by
William Heath Robinson has been saved
for the nation, including many of his most
well-known First and Second World War
drawings and paintings. One of the
leading illustrators of his day, Heath
Robinson was famous for his drawings of
complicated contraptions. During both
World Wars his ironic and bizarre
depictions of conflict and gentle satire of
public figures were extremely popular.
The William Heath Robinson Trust has
been able to acquire 410 drawings and
paintings, due to go on public display in
Greater London from April 2016.

Writing history
The desk on which Great Expectations, Our
New 17m restoration project will see County Durhams Mutual Friend and The Mystery of Edwin
impressive Auckland Castle restored to its former glory Drood were written is now on show at the
former London home of Charles Dickens.
A two-storey extension, remodelling of the 16th-century The desk was passed through the Dickens
Scotland Wing and an immersive new museum experience will family after the authors death, before
being auctioned for the Great Ormond
be introduced as part of the work to be carried out at Auckland
Street Charitable Trust. The desk now takes
Castle, the 800-year-old former palace of the Prince Bishops pride of place at the Charles Dickens
of Durham. The new extension will be designed by Niall Museum.
McLaughlin Architects and will reflect the castles religious
background, echoing wooden Anglo Saxon churches of the 6th Take to the water
and 7th centuries. Meanwhile, the new museum will look at A kickstarter campaign has been launched
to try and raise funds for the Thames Baths
mans relationship with belief across the British Isles. Planning project. If successful, the project will
consent has also been granted for a new welcome building that section off a small part of the River
will offer panoramic views across the surrounding area. Thames in London to create a new natural
lido where the public will be able to swim
The renovation project forms part of a wider heritage-led
safely. To donate towards the scheme, visit
social regeneration initiative for the North East.


Timeless classic
Queens House in Greenwich to undergo
refurbishment in time for 400th anniversary
Queens House in Greenwich will be closing to the
public on 27 July 2015 in order to undergo
refurbishment and is due to reopen on 4 July 2016 in
time to mark its 400th anniversary.
Designed by Inigo Jones in 1616 for Anne of
Denmark, wife of James I, the Queens House was the
first classical building in the country. Following the
refurbishment, visitors will be able to see Orazio
Gentileschis Joseph and Potiphars Wife painting (left)
displayed in the building for the first time since 1650.

12 | JUNE/JULY 2015



success Turn
National Trust for Scotland
acquires first new
back time
property in seven years The National Trusts Upton
House in Warwickshire turns
The 14th-century Alloa Tower
in Clackmannanshire is the
back the clock to 1939 when
latest property to be acquired the Bearsted family moved
by The National Trust for out and their merchant bank
Scotland. The Tower is the moved in
ancestral home of the Erskine
During 2015-16 12 rooms within
family, the Earls of Mar and Upton House will recreate a
Kellie. It is the largest, oldest compelling picture of what life was
keep in Scotland and was like at the property during the
originally built to guard the Second World War, when, driven by
nearby ferry crossing on the the need to protect staff and assets
River Forth. from the London air raids, the
family-owned bank took over the
elegant mansion.
GALLERY The move was at the forefront of
Government planning before war was

even announced, with the Chancellor
of the Exchequer demanding the
banking sector be resilient enough to
York Art Gallery is to be transformed to include more exhibition withstand threats to London from
expected air raids.
space and will house major touring displays for the first time Visitors to Upton House and
Gardens are transported back to
New commissions, Old Masters and more than 2,000 ceramic
wartime Britain and can discover
works will feature in York Art Gallerys new displays of where bank staff slept in shared
designated collections when it reopens on 1 August 2015. dormitories; where armed
servicemen guarded prisoners of war
Two new spaces on the first floor will become the Centre of
working in the grounds, and where
Ceramic Art, which will be home to the largest collection of the typing pool staff worked
British studio ceramics in the world. The new centre will include surrounded by some of the nations
most treasured works of art in the
a 17-metre-long Wall of Pots, which will be displayed by colour
long gallery.
to create a rainbow effect, as It is the first time this episode
well as a major new commission in the propertys history has been
fully relayed to visitors. Rachel
by renowned ceramist Clare
OConnor-Boyd, Upton House
Twomey. Collections Manager, comments:
The development will also This is a fascinating story and a
significant part of the history of
include an artists garden created
Upton House. The story and the
at the rear of the gallery in a impact on the lives of those involved
space previously closed to the deserves to be told.
public, linking to the existing upton-house

York Museum Gardens.

Jennifer Alexander, curator
of art, says: For the opening
displays we wanted to show off
the strength of our permanent
collections, while combining
this with significant loans and
thought-provoking commissions. JUNE/JULY 2015 | 13


A Victorian sea fort has been inventively transformed
into a luxury hotel off the coast of Portsmouth
No Mans Fort was one of four forts built to defend the south
coast from French invaders and it has now been converted into
a 22-bedroom hotel in a multi-million pound project. The fort
joins the smaller Spitbank Fort which was refurbished as a hotel
in 2012 and holds eight bedrooms.
Facilities at No Mans include a spa, shops, restaurants, sea golf
and rooftop hot tubs. Guests can also enjoy wine tasting, sea
kayaking and kite surfing among other activities during their
stay on this secluded off-shore escape.


Bones of
Museum of London research
examines the historic effects of
industrialisation on Londoners
A ground-breaking research project by the
Museum of London hopes to uncover new
clues about the nature of disease and how it
has affected people as Britain has moved
into the age of industrialisation.
The museum will use the latest clinical

techniques, including digital X-Ray
scanning, to get a better understanding of
what the bones in its collection tell us and to
assess their change over time.


Access all areas

Some of Scotlands most precious and unusual
objects and the stories behind them can now
be accessed at the click of a button.
From the Honours of Scotland (royal regalia) to a 15th-century
nit comb given as a love token (left), around 400 objects can be
viewed in Historic Scotlands new online gallery.
Over 35,000 objects housed in more than 160 properties in
Scotland are in the safekeeping of Historic Scotland. This is
the first time many of the objects can be viewed outside of
their host properties. The new digital archive contains hidden
gems from Innerpeffray Chapel near Auchterarder, Arbroath
Abbey and Edinburgh Castle among others and can be viewed
from a computer or smart phone. The gallery also provides an
opportunity to view items not currently on public display.

14 | JUNE/JULY 2015


Win a nights stay for two people at Manchesters stylish

new five-star Hotel Gotham, home to all things Gothic and glamorous

rolific architect Edwin Lutyens designed the striking bank BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Hotel Gotham
building, which now houses Hotel Gotham, in 1928, during competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road,
a boom-time when Manchester was at the forefront of Cheltenham GL50 1BB.
industry. Creating the Modern Classical masterpiece ONLINE: Visit and click on Competitions &
illustrated the prominence and success of a city on the up, realised Offers to enter the competition online.
in a towering edifice of Portland stone and arched windows. It was
the talk of the town when it opened in 1935, and even today, TERMS & CONDITIONS: Entry closing date 31 August 2015. Prize must be claimed and
used by 31 January 2016. Subject to availability. No cash alternative. Any additional costs to
remains one of the regions most impressive buildings. be paid by winner. Non-transferable. Employees (and relatives) of The Chelsea Magazine
Painstakingly restored, Hotel Gotham has been transformed from Company are not eligible to enter. Winners names may be published. By entering this
competition you agree and acknowledge that The Chelsea Magazine Company is permitted
its formal past into a handsome, five-star, 60-room hotel at its to receive your registration data.
central 100 King Street address. Owners, Bespoke Hotels, have set 
the bar high with the aim of making this fun, witty destination the
sexiest hotel in Europe. With lavish interiors evoking film noir
intrigue, rooms are suitably decorated in muted colours with Art HOW TO ENTER
Deco-inspired features, complete with staff nattily dressed in Which style of architecture is the Hotel Gotham building? 
uniforms inspired by the 1930s. A Tudor B Art Deco C Jacobean
Guests can dine in the top-floor restaurant, lounge in the private
bar, or step outside onto the terraces for drinks and to survey the NAME .................................................................................................................
citys skyline, an even more special experience after dark. ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
Find out more at

................................................................... POST CODE ....................................

THE PRIZE EMAIL .................................................................................................................
A nights B&B for two people at Hotel Gotham, in a classic double
or twin, including set menu three-course dinner and bottle of wine. I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information
The latest books and DVDs celebrating Britains history
Recharge the batteries on a
thrilling outdoor adventure
Stephen Neale, Bloomsbury,
Hardback, 14.99
Tent pole and
Marc Morris, Hutchinson, Hardback, 20 in the wilds is an
Marking the 800th anniversary of Magna experience not
Carta, this book follows the rise of King to be missed, as
John to gain ultimate power. Discover detailed by Neale.
He pinpoints 100 areas where it is
the truth about the taxes he imposed, his still possible to enjoy a restorative,
loss of lands in France, and alleged tales law-abiding nights sleep, each
of tyranny that led to his subjects turning linked by a walking trail. Neale acts
against him and forcing him to sign as a signpost, leaving people to
the great charter citing that everybody, find their own perfect pitch.
including the king, was subject to the law.
PITCH UP, EAT LOCAL THE GOLDEN AGE OF Phoebe Smith, Summersdale,
Ali Ray, AA, Paperback, 16.99 RAILWAY POSTERS Paperback, 8.99
If you think Introduced by Michael Palin, Batsford, Follow the
camping Hardback, 12.99 hair-raising
means Enjoy a dose adventures of the
snacking on of nostalgia author, whose
sandwiches for the heyday problems begin
and crisps, of rail travel in the opening
think again. in Britain. A pages with a
Camping combination of near-death
devotee Ali clever marketing experience in an icy Scottish river.
Ray shows and talented Things do improve! Discover
how to rustle up restaurant-style meals artists produced the benefits, psychological and
such as pan-fried sea bass, Thai beef a glossy vision physical, of extreme camping.
salad and paella, on a gastronomic of holidays in the UK: of blue-sky
tour. Dishes are chosen for the quality destinations, golden beaches and
of local ingredients, and useful pages packed lidos. More than 80 vintage
highlight Camping and Caravanning posters from the 1930s, 40s and 50s
Margaret Dickinson, Wild Things
Club sites plus local farm shops. are illustrated, documenting a lost era.
Publishing, Paperback, 14.99
Compiled by
the Kenwood
DVD Ladies Pond
WOLF HALL a group that
25 promotes
The BBCs adaptation of Hilary Mantels swimming in
award-winning historical novel brings to life the lakes on Hampstead Heath,
the characters of the Tudor court in a quiet, this guide reveals the members
yet powerful, six-part series. With a spotlight favourite lesser-known ponds,
on Henry VIIIs chief minister, Thomas pools and beaches of southern
Cromwell, the story details his rise from and eastern England, all easily
humble beginnings to become the kings accessible by train from London.
right-hand man.

16 | JUNE/JULY 2015



Until 31 August
Tracing the history of drawing in Britain, over
100 works by some of the UKs finest artists
will be on show in Great British Drawings,
ranging from the 16th century to post-war
experimentation with modernism.
Ashmolean, Oxford
Tel: 01865 278 000;

Until 2 August
Spanning four decades of work, Benedict
Rubbra: Eye to Image follows the Devon-based

artists search for a harmonious relationship

between form, colour and light. The works
originate from 3D forms constructed from
paper, card, wire and wood which then have
vibrant shapes of light projected onto them,
creating unexpected spaces and colours, tones
and shadows. Changed lighting transforms the
objects appearance allowing the creation of
further art from a single form.
Royal Albert Memorial Museum, Exeter
Tel: 01392 265 858;

Until 3 January 2016 REEFS
Bursting at the seams with gowns Until 13 September
designed by the likes of Christian Dior, A vibrant underwater world is revealed in
this exhibition resembles the walk-in Coral Reefs: Secret Cities of the Sea, with
wardrobe of every girls dreams. Great over 200 specimens displayed, from tiny
Names of Fashion charts the use of sponge crabs to giant Turbinaria coral. Look
fabric from the 20th century to today. out for specimens originally collected by
Charles Darwin on the HMS Beagle.
Fashion Museum, Bath
Tel: 01225 477 789; www. Natural History Museum, London Tel: 020 7942 5000; JUNE/JULY 2015 | 17



27 June 13 September
CENTRAL Beginning with John Ruskin and William Morris,
The Arts and Crafts House: Then and Now explores
the inspiration behind the movements domestic
creativity to craft the perfect home. Celebrated
figures, such as Edwin Lutyens and Gertrude Jekyll,
feature alongside todays leading designers.
Compton Verney, Warwickshire
Tel: 01926 645 500;

27 June 27 September
A range of rare items linked to Lincolnshires
history go on display to celebrate Magna Cartas
800th anniversary as part of Lincolnshires Great
Exhibition. The exhibition draws from private,
national and international collections to tell the story
of the county with the help of principle sponsor The
David Ross Foundation.
The Collection, Lincoln
Tel: 01522 782 040;

Until 26 July
View major works by Francis Bacon
alongside old and modern masters,
including Rembrandt, Titian, Picasso,
Michelangelo and Van Gogh. Francis

Bacon and the Masters reveals Bacons

obsession with the art of the past, such as
ancient Greek and Roman works.

FLYING LEGENDS Salisbury Centre for Visual Arts, Norfolk

Tel: 01603 593 199;
11-12 July
Enjoy world-class, choreographed
displays featuring unique aircraft types rarely seen
together in the UK skies or anywhere else. Flying
Legends Air Show culminates in the finale Balbo
formation with all the WWII fighters taking to the sky.
IWM Duxford, Cambridge
Tel: 01223 835 000;

18 | JUNE/JULY 2015

22-26 July
With three zones dedicated to gardens and plants
that reflect the themes Grow, Inspire and Feast, this
years RHS Flower Show Tatton Park has plenty to
offer. Whether youre interested in growing your own NORTH
fruit and vegetables, getting tips from RHS specialists,
or creating spectacular floral displays, a wealth of
expertise and inspiration can be found throughout this
annual Cheshire show.
Tatton Park, Cheshire
Tel: 01625 374 400;
Until 6 September
Venice-based sibling artists Laura de Santillana
and Alessandro Diaz de Santillana are
descendants of the Venini glassware dynasty,
established in Murano in 1921. See their
sculptural forms in glass in their first UK show.
Yorkshire Sculpture Park, Wakefield
Tel: 01924 832 631;

Until 6 September
The huge stone statues of Rapa
Nui (Easter Island) are some
of the worlds most widely
recognised archaeological objects.
Making Monuments on Rapa PICTURING
Nui: The Statues from Easter VENICE

Island looks at how the statues Until 27 September

were made, the role they played
With the works of Turner, Sickert, Brangwyn
in the lives of the islanders, and more on show, Picturing Venice
how they were quarried and celebrates the popularity of this historic
transported, and what they mean. Italian city as well as the developments
Exhibition visitors can also view of European art between the 17th and
Moai Hava, a statue collected 20th centuries. View the citys remarkable
from Rapa Nui in 1868. architecture through the eyes of the masters.
Manchester Museum, University of Lady Lever Art Gallery, Liverpool
Manchester. Tel: 0161 275 2648; Tel: 0151 478 4136; JUNE/JULY 2015 | 19


6-12 July
More than just a renowned choral music festival,
Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod is a
celebration of music, dance, costume and culture
from nations around the world. Evening concerts
range from performances by Burt Bacharach and
SCOTLAND Gareth Malones Voices choir to the sounds of
South America along with music from screen and stage.
& WALES Llangollen, Denbighshire
Tel: 01978 862 001;

Until 30 August
This small exhibition takes a look at the giants
of the Japanese ceramic industry. In 1890 the
Japanese government instigated the Imperial
Household Artists system to recognise and
support mature artists who had achieved a level
of success within their respective crafts. Masters
of Japanese Porcelain highlights the ceramics
works of such artists formed over half a century.
National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh
Tel: 0300 123 6789;

20-21 June
Get swept up in the excitement of this
medieval Joust! event with galloping horses,
parades, stunts and fierce competition. Cheer
for your favourite knight in shining armour
as The Knights of Royal England put on a
spectacular display amid a merry mix of
fanfares and frivolity!
Cardiff Castle, Wales
Tel: 029 2087 8100;


25 July
Barrel rolls and loop the loops will be in abundance
as aircraft from all eras take to the skies along with
the RAFs Red Arrows who will be wowing the
crowds with their daring aerobatic flight displays.
View the RAFs supersonic Typhoon, a powerful
combat aircraft that can fly at twice the speed of
sound, and other iconic heritage aircraft at Scotlands
National Airshow.
National Museum of Flight, East Lothian
Tel: 0300 123 6789;

20 | JUNE/JULY 2015



13 JUNE 31 JANUARY 2016


Follow 2,000 years of footwear to see the man wearing those shoes
fashion at the V&As latest exhibition. playing golf as they are heavily studded
From ancient Egyptian sandals to the with crystals, glass beads and studs, so
colourful and sometimes wacky men like their fancy footwear as well.
creations of contemporary designers, You see it from the beginning of
including Sophia Webster, Christian time, shoes have status indications
Dior and Dolce and Gabbana, discover and men have been the power
the social significance of shoes across players since historical times.
different cultures throughout history.
Q What is the earliest shoe on display?
Q Why shoes? The earliest shoe is a sandal from the
We seem to be quite obsessed about late Pharaonic period, Egypt. Its the
shoes, theres always something in earliest flip flop really, with near pure
the papers and the media and I got gold leaf decoration.
intrigued thinking about why we are
obsessed with them. Going through Q Do you have a favourite pair? that the idea of
the V&A collection I realised that this At the moment its a pair of Indian wanting to stand
is not something new. Its always been platform sandals, called Padukas, in out or having the best, most
there in nearly all cultures all over the pure silver with gold toe knobs. They fashionable or most extreme shoe
world. Shoes have a very important are quite high and were used by the designs has always been there across
significance in the social hierarchy, in bride at the wedding ceremony to raise different cultures. The more decorative
how you express yourself and how they her above the crowd so everybody can or opulent they are, the better! From
identify the wearers position in society. see her beauty and luxurious clothing. ancient Egypt to 3D printed shoes and
Its a long-standing obsession thats They also have little bells on them, so flat pack shoes that you can assemble at
been going on for centuries. the crowd would hear her if she got lost! home, it seems to be a shoe is a shoe, it
doesnt change through history. If you
Q Where do the shoes on display Q Are there any enduring designs? look at the corset, we dont wear those
come from? Different periods have different any more, but we still insist on wearing

The exhibition features around 270 fashionable styles, but it seems to be restricting or impractical shoes, which
pairs of shoes, both mens and womens, is really interesting. I cant see a change
spanning 2,000 years of shoe history there at all.
across the world; from Japan, China
and the Middle East to Europe and Q What can we learn from shoes?
native American. Many of the shoes Shoes are surprisingly complex its an
have never been on display. In interesting social history behind them.
addition we have generous loans from Theyre not just frivolous girls dreams;
private collections around the world. they have a very complex history and
we seem to have a complex relationship
Q How do the mens shoes compare with them. They link the human drive
to the womens? to elevate themselves and stand out
Some of the mens shoes are much in a crowd across different cultures.
more spectacular than the womens
shoes. For example, we have a pair V&A, Cromwell Road, London
of Prada mens golf shoes. They are SW7 2RL; Tel: 020 7942 2000;
called golf shoes, but I would love JUNE/JULY 2015 | 21

the loveliest square mile in Lakeland Alfred Wainwright MBE (1907-1991)
The Borrowdale Gates Hotel, a privately
owned 4 star hotel considered a hidden
gem in the Borrowdale Valley.

Stunning Borrowdale Valley views to be

seen from the beautiful contemporary
bedrooms and gorgeous terrace.

Surrounded by rst class fell walking

country and close to the many attractions
of Keswick, Borrowgale Gates Hotel
is the ideal get away.



Grange-in-Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5UQ I 01768 777204 I
The Intern

A good vintage
HELEN OCHYRA is on a mission to find Britains best job. This time she
heads to a vineyard in Wales to help tend the next generation of saplings

laethliw vineyard won an
award with their very first
crop. The white won a
bronze award with the UK
Vineyards Association, viticulturist Jac
Evans tells me. That was amazing.
Amazing indeed. Just seven years
ago this vineyard in West Wales was a
grassy field the Evans family rented to
a local farmer. Today it is planted with
some 5,000 vines, joining a growing
number of vineyards around England
and Wales to produce quality wines.
Theres always something to
do, says Jac with a smile. We do
everything ourselves. We planted the
vines, we prune them, we pick the
grapes and cut the grass.
When Jac says we, he means not
only the family but also the local
community. People turned up in droves
last harvest season to help pick the
It is spellbinding to think this seemingly
grapes, he tells me. Everyone worked barren cane will become a ourishing vine
really hard, but it was fun. We all had a
nice supper together afterwards with more hacking back than I would have
a glass of wine, of course. imagined. In fact, we end up with what
I am promised that my day will Above: Seven acres appears to be little more than a stump.

end with a glass of wine too. And so I of prime Welsh It is spellbinding to think this seemingly
happily head out with Jac to help prune barren cane will in just a few months
Below: Helen assists
the vines. There are seven acres of them Jac Evans with become a flourishing vine.
and getting them into pre-growing- pruning and training Harvesting takes place in autumn,
season shape turns out to involve far the young vines but the exact timing is down to the
vines, or more specifically the sugar
level in their grapes.
So, can Wales really produce a FAST FACTS
quality wine? Back in the farmhouse, Open: Llaethliw
we taste Llaethliws range. The Solaris winery tours will
is a dry and gently perfumed white begin this year.
that would match up to lobster; the Stay: The
Rondo a full-bodied red I can imagine Harbourmaster
pairing with steak. But the ros is the (www.harbour-
real surprise; not at all too sweet, it is in
delicious, and my personal favourite. Aberaeron has
So, can I buy some? We sold out before rooms from 110
Christmas last year, says Jac, this B&B.
year we hope to produce more. Id love Contact: 01545
to be able to produce 100,000 bottles a 571 879; www.
year. Thats the plan. Q JUNE/JULY 2015 | 23

Land of the
summer people
The Somerset Levels are a unique area of
vast plains ringed by hills and dotted with
ancient settlements, rich in human history
and a haven for native wildlife

24 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Wonderful views
can be enjoyed from
Glastonbury Tor JUNE/JULY 2015 | 25

Somerset Levels

T he Somerset Levels are a land steeped

in history, myth and legend. This is
where King Alfred burned the cakes,
King Arthur is supposed to be buried, and
where near the village of Westonzoyland
on 6 July 1685 the last pitched battle
was fought on English soil, between the
supporters of the Duke of Monmouth and
troops loyal to King James II.
The Levels are also steeped in water and have been in the
news more recently for a very different reason: as the site of
some of the worst flooding to hit southwest Britain for years,
during the winter of 2013-14.
Yet this low-lying land is, as the name suggests,
regularly flooded indeed the very name
Somerset means land of the summer people.
This refers to the ancient custom of bringing
inundation give the area a unique
landscape. There are big skies, sunlight
reflected off water and pollarded
willows standing like sentries along
the edges of the fields. These fields are
bordered by rhynes, a local word for
drainage ditches dug over centuries to
take the water off the land, and droves:
Above: Dawn on
Glastonbury Tor, seen
from the River Brue.
Below: Local staple,
Cheddar cheese.
Opposite: Cheddar
Gorge on the edge of
the Mendip Hills

long, wide paths constructed centuries ago to allow farmers

to take their animals to market across this soggy, boggy land.
For decades, this area was dug to obtain the peat hidden
just below the surface. This left ugly scars across the
landscape, which soon filled with water. In the past 20
years or so these have been transformed into huge
nature reserves; and now the Somerset Levels
are rapidly becoming one of the best places
in Britain to see a really special range of
livestock down from the hills in spring and wetland wildlife.
summer to graze on the fertile marshland, The Levels are surrounded by some
following the previous winters floods. of the best-known tourist attractions in
The geography of the Levels a flat flood Britain. To the north there is Cheddar
plain surrounded by hills and this annual Gorge, a fabulous rock formation set in the

26 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Slug JUNE/JULY 2015 | 27

Somerset Levels

Mendip Hills, home to the celebrated Above: The lush

Cheddar cheese. To the south, bisecting green landscape of
the Somerset Levels.
the northern and southern Levels, Right: Glastonbury
lie the Polden Hills. To the east is the Festival revellers
cathedral city of Wells and the town
of Glastonbury, famous for its abbey, tor and bi-annual
music festival. And to the west, a little further afield, are the
Quantock Hills, Exmoor and the surprisingly less-frequented
Somerset coast.
You can visit the Somerset Levels for just a day and still
get some sense of what makes this little corner of the West
Country so special. But a long weekend, or better still a the Dissolution of the Monasteries in Henry VIIIs turbulent
whole week, will let you really get to know this unique part reign. The tor has been a place of pilgrimage for both
of Britain and discover all its many delights, from history to religious and pagan visitors for far longer than this; and
natural history. they still come today.
From the top, on a clear day, you can see over three
Aiming high counties: Dorset and Wiltshire, as well as Somerset. To the
The best way to get a perspective on this low-lying land is northwest, towards Bridgwater Bay, stands Brent Knoll, a
to climb a high viewpoint. The best-known local landmark landmark alongside the M5, and Crook Peak, on the eastern
is Glastonbury Tor, rising to a height of almost 158m (518ft) side of the motorway, both of which also provide excellent
above the surrounding landscape, which mostly lies at or just views over the surrounding landscape.
above sea level. The smallest, but arguably the most fascinating, viewpoint
The tor is a steep, conical hill easily reached from the town in the area is the wonderfully named Burrow Mump
of Glastonbury, with a tower on the summit. This is the only (meaning hill hill) by the village of Burrowbridge. This
remaining part of a 14th-century church, destroyed during miniature version of Glastonbury Tor may be less than JUNE/JULY 2015 | 29

Somerset Levels

local area and handmade Above: Avalon

willow products for sale. Marshes at Shapwick
Heath Reserve.
If you want to watch
Left: Bittern stalk
wildlife, head north of their nesting ground
the Poldens to the Avalon at Avalon Marshes
Marshes, a vast area of
former peat diggings now turned into a wetland,
owned and run by conservation organisations
including the RSPB, Somerset Wildlife Trust and
Natural England.
This is the site of Britains biggest starling roost
made famous by countless appearances on UK
TV screens which takes place each evening
from mid-November through to February. Its also
one-sixth the height of its neighbour, at 24m (79ft), but it home to Britains most varied set of waterbirds, several of
nevertheless gives great views over the heart of the Levels, which have only recently colonised from mainland Europe.
where the most severe flooding occurred. The Avalon Marshes can be reached from two places: at
the western end, from the car park at the Peat Moors Visitor
Watching wildlife Centre; and from further east towards Glastonbury, Ashcott
If you want to explore the Levels themselves, you are spoilt Corner, where there are now two car parks, including a large
for choice. South of the Polden Hills, the village of Muchelney one just opened by the RSPB.
with its ruined abbey and the town of Langport are well From there you can walk east into the RSPBs Ham Wall
worth a visit. The nearby Willows and Wetlands Visitor reserve; or west, into Shapwick and Meare Heath reserve,
Centre, just outside the village of Stoke St Gregory, has a run by Natural England. These effectively make up a
permanent exhibition on the importance of willow to the single vast wetland, connected by the old Highbridge to

30 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Coates English Willow
willows & wetlands visitor centre

Discover and explore

a hidden industry

The Lemon Tree Coffee House

Craft studios and Willow Products Shop
Guided Tours

the place to stay

Outside Classroom
Unique Basket Museum
Wetlands Exhibition

Willow & Wetlands Walks
EE N M TUR 5:00


Charles and Allison Crisp welcome you to Town Mills in the heart of the

country town of Dulverton which is the southern entrance to Exmoor National


Park. This charming converted mill house built in 1780 retains many of the
original features making Town Mills a delightful place to stay. There are
5 restaurants within a two minute walk including Woods which has been
Meare Green Court, Stoke St Gregory, Taunton, TA3 6HY E:
T: + 44 (0)1398 323 124

Bridgwater Guy Fawkes Carnival

Saturday 7th November 2015
410th anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot and the failed attempt of Guy Fawkes to blow up the
Houses of Parliament. Ever since the conspirator was discovered by guards of King James 1 on
that cold November night, the Somerset town of Bridgwater has celebrated his failure
in its own unique way. Some 50 or so carnival carts, each lit by thousands of lights, wind their
way through the centre of this historic Somerset town, creating an explosive atmosphere
of light, sound and movement.
Full day of entertainment for all the family.
View the carnival parade in the comfort of one of our all-seater grandstands.
Book your grandstand seats now from our online shop.
Park & Ride available.

Follow us on
Somerset Levels

Glastonbury railway line, now a wide and easily accessible

path for cyclists and pedestrians.
From the western end of the old railway line, near the Peat
Moors Visitor Centre, you can head towards the Sweet Track.
Discovered in 1970 by a local man digging for peat, this
ancient pathway is one of the oldest tracks found anywhere in
the world and dates back almost 6,000 years.
The Avalon Marshes is one of the most ambitious people gather from just before dusk on Top left: Otters are
landscape-scale wildlife restoration projects in Britain and winter evenings to watch the incredible sometimes spotted
all the hard work is now beginning to pay off. Hundreds of flights of up to half a million starlings; at Avalon Marshes.
Above: The medieval
but theres a lot more to see both then cathedral city of Wells
and at other times of the year. lies close to the Levels
PLANNING YOUR VISIT This area of reeds and pools is now
the best place in Britain to see the elusive bittern, a smaller,
browner relative of the familiar grey heron, whose loud,
BY CAR, the Levels are Taunton. booming call can be heard during the spring. But thats not
accessible from junctions A contemporary hotel with all: both little and great white egrets now breed and feed
22 or 23 of the M5, or from rooms from around 90 per here the great white egrets being the only population of this
the A303 near Somerton. night. http://cornerhouse- elegant bird anywhere in Britain.
BY TRAIN, the nearest In spring, hobbies (small, acrobatic falcons) hunt
stations are Highbridge & PREMIER INN, Bridgwater. dragonflies, kingfishers plunge into the waters for fish, and
Burnham or Bridgwater, on A budget hotel with rooms if you are both patient and very lucky you may even catch
the branch line between from 45 per night. sight of an otter.
Bristol Temple Meads and
Taunton. Taunton is the
For details of various B&BS Nearby Wells
nearest mainline station
in Glastonbury and the If you prefer history to natural history or just need a break
with direct links to London.
surrounding villages go to from the birds or the weather then the small but perfectly

PLACES TO STAY formed medieval city of Wells is less than half an hours drive
THE GEORGE INN, Wedmore. away. The main attraction here is the cathedral, which dates
A friendly gastropub back to the 12th century. As the historian Arthur Mee wrote
with rooms from 80- in his 1941 book The Kings England Somerset: The shape
100 per night. www. of it all, the skyline with the open parapets, the lightness of
Quaint village pub with this structure that has stood on the watery soil of Wells since
great value, home-cooked
the days before Agincourt, are not to be forgotten.
THE SWAN, Wedmore. food. www.sexeysarms.
Alongside the cathedral is the Bishops Palace, an equally
This pub/restaurant has
ancient building set inside a huge walled quadrangle and
rooms from 85-125 THE GEORGE , Wedmore. surrounded by a moat. Look out for kingfishers that regularly
per night. www. Great gastropub. www. perch on the stone wall by the moat, or the swan that comes to feed when summoned by a bell.
THE SWAN HOTEL , Wells. RICHS CIDER FARM, Mark. Both Wells and Wedmore, a thriving village a few miles
This large, city centre hotel Good, home-cooked to the west, are full of interesting shops and places to eat
offers rooms from 100- breakfasts and lunches. and drink, before you summon the energy to head out once
200 per night. www. again to explore the flat but beguiling landscape that is the restaurant.html Somerset Levels. Q JUNE/JULY 2015 | 33

Newarks charming faade hides a
bloody past, which is vividly recounted
at the new National Civil War Centre.
Discover the divisive events of the
conflict and the pivotal role played
by this ancient market town

34 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Overlooking the River
Trent, Newark Castle
was partly destroyed
in 1646 during the
English Civil War JUNE/JULY 2015 | 35

ewark-on-Trent is a pretty market town nestled between

Nottingham and Lincoln. An outdoor market and array of
independent stores and cafes are a magnet for discerning
shoppers, while its timber-framed buildings, 12th-century
castle and cobbled streets draw tourists keen to see a slice of
England unblighted by clumsy town planning.
Yet, while it gives every appearance of being a serene place
to visit, the peaceful faade belies a turbulent past, a part in
the fate of not one but two English kings and a central role in
one of the bloodiest episodes in English history.
Believed to date back to Roman times, the town developed
first under the Angles and Saxons, who fought over it, and
then the Danes.
In the middle of the 11th century, it was owned by Lady
Godiva and the castle was built over the following 100

years. Originally intended as a palace for Bishop Alexander
of Lincoln, the building brought Newark its first taste of
notoriety when King John died there in 1216 shortly after
At the National Civil War Centre in Newark, the stage is
losing the Crown Jewels in the Wash. Dysentery was the
diagnosis, the King having apparently overdosed on peaches,
set for the all-action drama of 17th-century conflict
though poisoning was also alleged. No stranger to the sound of musket-fire, Newark returns
The castle was subsequently home to assorted aristocracy to the memory of its past with the opening of the
until the eruption of the English Civil War in 1642; indeed, National Civil War Centre. Housed in a Grade II-listed
much of modern-day Newark was shaped by the conflict, former school building dating to 1529, the 5.4m centre
making the town the natural choice for the new National explores how the war shook the political and social
Civil War Centre, opened in early May 2015 (see side panel). landscape, examining its impact on the lives of ordinary
Its position at the crossroads of the Fosse Way and the families, as well as the military and politicians.
Great North Road, and as a key crossing point of the River The permanent exhibition on the ground floor begins
Trent, gave the town huge strategic importance. at the Gunpowder Plot in 1605, examines the English Civil
It became the Royalist stronghold for the area and was War period itself and the three separate conflicts which
besieged three times during the nine-year conflict; a third of spanned 1642-1651, and concludes with the legacy of war.
the townsfolk died with many succumbing to plague (legend Visitors will be able to handle swords, pistols and
has it that flea-ridden rats were one of the few sources of muskets, and dress up in civilian and military clothes of the
meat). Cut off from the outside world, the people even time. Rare objects are on display, including a 1646 siege
brought in their own currency, fashioning diamond-shaped map and Newark siege pieces, as well as the currency
siege pieces from plate. minted in the castle when the town was cut off from the
Despite the appalling conditions, the town held out and rest of the country. Interactives give visitors the chance to
only surrendered, begrudgingly, on 6 May 1646, when be a gunner firing on the town from Beacon Hill.
ordered to do so by King Charles I from An overseas section looks at the experiences of the
his base at nearby Southwell. The fall of Above: Newarks
popular market is
men who, having fled religious persecutors in England,
Newark signalled the end for Charles, returned from the colonies to join the fight.
held most days.
who was executed on 30 January 1649. Allied to the permanent exhibition is the Newark
Below: Charles I
Connections with the conflict are Coffee House Civil War Trail app, which visitors can download to their
visible all around the smartphone or tablet. Users of the trail who
town. The NatWest wish to access new Augmented Reality content
Bank, on the corner can download the app, available for Apple and
of the Market Place Android devices, from the National Civil War
and Stodman Street, Centres website. Interpretation boards at eight
stands on the site of locations around Newark will explain how to
the home of Hercules trigger this exciting filmed content.
Clay, a merchant and In addition, a 40-seat cinema features short
a Mayor of Newark, films recreating events, such as the quarrel
who was so alarmed between Charles I and Prince Rupert, the story of
by dreams of his Hercules Clay, plus scenes of daily life at the time.
house engulfed in
flames that he moved

36 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Gate today, the Charles I Coffee House is where Queen
Henrietta Maria stayed while visiting the town.
The Old White Hart, now occupied by the Nottingham
Building Society, dates back to the 15th century and was
probably a billet for soldiers. Its classic timber frontage was a
favourite of architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner.
Away from the centre, to the south-west on Boundary
Road, is the Queens Sconce fortification, thought to be one of
the most complete in England.
Visible for miles around, the spire of St Mary Magdalene
Church is more than 240ft (73m) high and bears its own Civil
War scar a round hole drilled by a cannon ball in 1644.
Stand in the Garden of Remembrance to get the best view
of daylight shining through the stonework and go inside
the church to see the Fleming Brass, one of the largest in
England, dating from 1363.
Although its destruction was ordered by Oliver
Cromwell, the castle proved just as tough as
the townsfolk and some of it still stands. The
his family to safety. After the building was Norman gatehouse is one of the finest in
hit by a shell, Clay was so thankful for the England, the dungeon is accessible and the
premonition that, on his death in 1645, he left a gardens landscaped by HE Milner in the 19th
legacy to help the towns poor. century and Grade II-listed are an ideal place
Across the street is the timber-framed Governors to stop for a breather. In summer they host band
House now a branch of Greggs bakery which concerts, film screenings and civil war re-enactments.
features an example of a garderobe, the medieval toilet It took the town around 150 years to recover from the
over which clothes were hung in the hope that the rising devastation wrought by the war.
ammonia would kill lice or moths in the fabric. The Georgian period brought a building boom and Castle
Prince Rupert, the Royalist commander, stayed here but Gate, Appleton Gate and London Road all have excellent
argued with the King over the loss of Bristol, and abandoned examples of the Classic style of buildings; in the Market
his war effort. Theres a timber-framed pub bearing his name Place, the old Moot Hall the former court of the Manor of
just down the street while another timber building on Kirk Newark now has a Starbucks at ground floor level.

Inset above: Plate

siege piece.
Above: Four-times
Liberal Prime Minister
William Gladstone
was MP for Newark
for 14 years.
Left: The Church of
St Mary Magdalene JUNE/JULY 2015 | 37

Now Open

Download Our
Augmented Reality
IN A WORLD Trail App



GETTING THERE By car, Newark is
well located next to the A1 and A46
and has ample long-stay parking.
Newark is a 30-40 min drive from
Lincoln, Nottingham and Doncaster,
and an hour from Derby, Leicester
and Sheffield. By train, East Coast
Mainline services stop at Newark
Northgate station, which is 30
minutes from Lincoln, one hour from
Leeds and Sheffield, and 1 hours
from London.
WHERE TO STAY A three-star
chain hotel with 32 rooms, Best
Western Deincourt is within easy
walking distance of Newarks shops,
restaurants, museums and castle.
Tel 01636 602 100;
The Palladian town hall, built by John Carr Winner of five stars and a Gold
of York and a Grade I-listed building, also Award from the English Tourist
houses the town museum and art gallery on Board, Newark Lodge Guest House
the second floor with a collection including has ensuite rooms with king-size
Poppies by Sir Stanley Spencer and works by beds, free wi-fi and parking.
artist William Nicholson and sculptor Robert Tel: 01636 703 999;
Kiddey, both local-born.
Other notable local celebrities include
celebrated stage actor Donald Wolfit (1902-
A 12-room luxury hotel and
1968) and Lord Byron, whose first poems
recipient of a Trip Advisor certificate
were printed in the town, while four-times
of excellence for 2014, Kelham
Prime Minister William Gladstone was MP
House Country Manor Hotel is an
for Newark for 14 years.
Edwardian manor set in nine acres of
Up until the 1950s, Newarks brewing and malting industries, which
parkland two miles from Newark.
capitalised on a ready water supply from the river, plus excellent road and rail
Tel: 01636 705 266;
links, earned the town the title Metropolis of Malt Beer.
Today, many of the breweries and malt houses have been converted into shops WHERE TO EAT Rushtons on
and homes, including the Town Wharf Brewery, now an apartment building but Stodman Street in Newark serves
still featuring the hoist used to haul sacks of grain. classic English and European cuisine,
The brewing tradition still survives, though on a smaller scale; Newark has using locally grown produce.
a blossoming micro-brewery sector and an award-winning micro-pub at Swan Tel: 01636 605 214;
and Salmon Yard. Many of Middle Gates outlets are independents and family-
run businesses, and range from clothing to jewellery and furniture. Book lovers
DONT MISS Newark International
should head for Strays, which also boasts a fine coffee shop and jazz evenings.
Antiques and Collectors Fair is the
The indoor Buttermarket an extension of the town hall offers jewellery
largest event of its kind in Europe
stalls, card and gift shops, and there is a market every day except Sundays and
up to 2,500 stands attract thousands
Tuesdays with antiques and crafts on Mondays and Thursdays, plus a general
of dealers and buyers from around
market on other days. Newarks other claim to fame is as a major antiques
the globe every other month. The
centre. Newark Showground hosts an international Antiques and Collectors
next show dates are 4-5 June; 20-21
Fair six times a year and the town has at least 10 antiques shops. A good place
August; and 8-9 October.
to start exploring is the Newark Antiques Centre, a former
Top: Newark Town congregational church on Lombard Street with two floors of MORE INFORMATION Discover
Hall houses the art
furniture, jewellery, vintage clothing, silver, ceramics, clocks more about Newark and the
gallery and museum.
Above: Lord Byrons and more. Newarks past was indeed bloody but it also surrounding area at www.
first poems were makes this charming market town a place worthy of a visit, or
printed in the town for more than just good shopping. JUNE/JULY 2015 | 39


to have struck the church in 1644. In the

NEWARK CIVIL WAR TRAIL centre of the churchyard is a monument

commemorating the lives of officers
killed in other sieges of Newark.
During the First English Civil War 4
1642-46, Newark played a role out of all HERCULES CLAYS HOUSE CHARLES I COFFEE HOUSE
proportion to its modest size. Troops The NatWest building now stands on To exit the church grounds, walk
loyal to Charles I swelled its population the site of Hercules Clays house. The towards the church and turn right
many times over and, from the safety of house was destroyed on 11 March 1643 following the path back to the main
its defences, they would launch attacks by a bomb that was actually aimed at entrance. Enter Kirk Gate on the right
on local Parliamentarians hence the the Governors House. The Alderman which is in front of you; walk on the
towns motto Deo fretus erumpe or had dreamt that his home would be left-hand side for 50m to the black and
Trust God and sally forth. Newark was destroyed and moved his family just in white timber-framed building opposite,
besieged on three occasions and finally time to a place of safety. He bequeathed Charles I Coffee House. Queen Henrietta
surrendered only when ordered to do so a thank you offering to the town of 100 Maria stayed here on a town visit.
by the King after his own surrender. and gave 100 to the vicar on condition
that he preached a sermon every year THE WHARF
NEWARK CASTLE on 11 March. This still continues in Continue along to the corner of
Start the walk at the bronze map Newark. You are now in Market Place Kirk Gate and Middle Gate. To complete
in the grounds of Newark Castle. Ahead walk along the right-hand side of the the trail, continue down Kirk Gate
is the best-preserved Norman castle square in the corner is a colourful turning left at the end and crossing
gatehouse in Britain. Walk towards it and timber-framed building, which was once at the zebra crossing. Head towards
look under the archway. The stonework the Old White Hart inn, parts of which the Wharf, keeping the large brick and
is still blackened by the gunpowder that date back to the early 14th century. timber-framed building on your right-
Parliamentary forces used in 1646 after hand side. At the junction turn right
the towns Royalist garrison had obeyed ST MARY MAGDALENE and walk to the centre of the car park to
King Charless order to surrender. Walk CHURCH look at the curved stone wall opposite. It
back around the side of the gatehouse Turn around and head towards the dates to 1883, but follows the line of the

following the path down to the riverside. opposite corner of the square and up old town wall as it made its way towards
Turn left and follow the length of the to St Mary Magdalene Church. At the the castle. It would have formed part of
castle wall. Small circular depressions tall chimney, turn right down an alley, the towns defences during the Civil War.
in the wall, mostly at head height, were onto Appleton Gate. Turn left and
caused by Parliamentary cannon fire. left again, and enter the Garden of INFORMATION
Remembrance and walk to the far right The walk: An easy trail for all abilities.
THE PRINCE RUPERT hand corner of the churchyard. Look up Parking: There are several car parks in
Follow the path around the castle, at the church spire. The hole visible in the town; visit
crossing over the wooden walkway and the spire marks the spot where the shot carparks/Newark
turning left up the path onto the main from a Parliamentarian cannon is said Distance: 1.5km. Time: 45 minutes Q
road. Turn right, walk for 50m and cross
the zebra crossing. Walk down Stodman
Street (to your left) to the Woolpack, the 0 100 200
sixth building on the right. Cross over. Metres
The 13th-century Prince Rupert pub
was originally built as a rich merchants
house. Continue along Stodman Street
until you come to NatWest Bank.

Opposite is the Governors House
(Greggs), another timber-framed
merchants house. Due to its position 1
close to military HQ at the castle, it was 6
certain to have been commandeered
by the Royalist forces. Also, its proximity
to the church meant that a place
for worship and observation of the
4 5
enemy (from the steeple parapet) was 2
conveniently close. It was the Governors 3
House for the duration of the Civil War.

40 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Houses of Parliament
020 7219 4114
Visit one of the worlds most iconic buildings
LYRICAL The wheels of industry turn defiantly for many of Britains oldest
heritage firms, their names synonymous with quality. One such,
Barbour, has been clothing customers from fishermen to royalty
in outdoors kit for 120 years

42 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Founded: 1894
Where: South Shields
Product: Utility clothing

ay the name Barbour and thoughts
immediately turn to country
pursuits and the gentry. Indeed, this
quintessential British brand of fine
country clothing and accessories has long been
the choice of royalty and the well-heeled, with
a history spanning more than 120 years and a
global reach that includes a following of some
90,000 Twitter followers. The secret of its success
is undoubtedly its quality.
Classy advertising campaigns and collaborations
with uber-cool celebrities aside (actor Steve McQueen jackets is a nod to the familys
added instant glamour to Barbours range of Scottish heritage, though to
motorcycle jackets in the 1960s, further enhanced the South Shields community
for a new generation by supermodel and presenter they have long been part of the
Alexa Chung), this coveted label is actually grounded fold. A history of philanthropic
in practicality. Utility, functionality and durability gestures in local politics and
may not be the sexiest words on the high street, and charity work has not been
possibly not high on the list of demands of many forgotten and those caring
devotees whose lifestyles are more city than national principles are upheld in the
park, but nonetheless Barbours roots run deep in business under the current
the gritty South Shields soil, where the company was leadership of chairman, Dame
established in 1894. Margaret Barbour, who took the
The principles of the family-owned and run reins 41 years ago following the
business remain the same as when John Barbour untimely death of her husband,
opened his first store in South Shields Market Place. John, great-grandson of the
The Scotsman saw an opportunity to kit out the industrial founder. Championing the brand, Dame Margaret was the
workers of the region, whose livelihoods as fishermen, first woman to have real influence in the companys direction
miners, agricultural workers and stevedores kept them at the alongside her late mother-in-law, Nancy Barbour.
mercy of the elements. Weatherproof clothing was imperative The factory floor is where the action happens. A sea of
for this sector and early promotion of the brand appealed machinists engaged in various tasks combine their skills to
solely to these labourers. Customer catalogues from 1908 create approximately 3,000 jackets per week. Their efficiency
reveal illustrations of heroic-looking men clad in the latest is a sight to behold. The journey begins at the neatly stacked
Barbour offering for foul weather on land or at sea and the sheets of pre-waxed cotton, leading on to the pattern-cutting
iconic South Shields beacon was adopted as a brand logo.
Progress came through a variation on the theme to
suit those who enjoyed an active leisure time in country
pursuits and it is this market that remains at the core of
Barbour production. Collaborations with other outdoor
manufacturers, such as Land Rover, complement the
country look, in turn reinforcing a traditionally British,
and much coveted, sense of style. Barbour still relies on
its back catalogue to create modern
Top: John Barbour,
interpretations of its first weatherproof company founder.
jackets and coats. Top right: Johns son,
The original South Shields shop was Malcolm, produced
quickly outgrown, but the Barbour the first mail order
family chose not to move far away catalogue in 1908.
Middle: Early
and their offices, factory and shop
promotional material.
now sprawl across a large area on the Bottom: Brand
outskirts of the town. The famous inspiration, the South
Barbour tartan lining seen inside many Shields beacon JUNE/JULY 2015 | 43

Great British Brands
Top: Barbours buy a new jacket, says long-serving
machinists have customer services manager, Jean. Last
long been admired year we despatched 16,332 items with
for their great skill.a team of just 18 people. Weve come
Middle: The biker
jacket range, 1959.
to realise that there are sentimental
Bottom left: 1908s reasons for keeping hold of the same
weatherproof wear. jacket; some get handed down through
Bottom right: the generations. They also mould to
Todays factory is your shape after a while and become
a scene of efficiency
like a second skin. We see some really
old items: Solways from the 1960s, a
lot of the Northumbria range dating back to the 1970s, and
Westmorland waistcoats from the 80s. Some customers forget
to clear out their pockets before sending them to us and we
frequently have to return wedding rings, phones, keys, love
letters, photos you name it, weve had it!

arbours clothing archives hold some
surprises. Designer Gary Janes
has worked on some of Barbours
most iconic designs and has an
stage, before passing to the encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand and
sewing teams whose great its evolution. We keep an eye on changing
speed and dexterity is a blur fashions but ultimately were about function
of movement. and practicality, he says. We appropriate
We run an academy our original work-wear designs for a modern
where we take on a number market, but therell always be more to a
of apprentices each year to Barbour than just good looks.
learn sewing skills and to train Yesteryears outerwear essentials include
as machinists in the factory. We ankle-length motorcycle greatcoats, the tails
also take on university students on of which cleverly fold around the wearer for a
fashion placement schemes within our streamlined effect during travel, as well as traditional
design department, explains PR manager, yellow fishermans garb and customised jackets worn by
Sue Newton. Apart from having improved and enhanced Falklands War soldiers, whose regulation army kit had fallen
equipment as time has gone on, the principles of how we well short of requirements.
make a Barbour jacket havent changed all that much. Our These well-loved relics are a credit to their makers.

traditional methods, with much done by hand, are something Almost all could easily be worn today and, as such, serve as
we pride ourselves on. inspiration for tomorrow. Q
It takes around an hour and a half to make a jacket,
depending on the style, with 36 people involved in the
process from start to finish. Each machinist completes a piece
of the garment and passes it on until the completed jacket is
ready to be quality checked. Up to five different styles may
be worked on at any one time on the five production lines
and the nature of the job demands intense concentration.
Next door in customer
services, another team is
busy registering the latest
intake of well-worn coats and
jackets, which after years of
wear and tear, or, perhaps,
a brief spell in the jaws of a
reckless puppy, have been
returned to be repaired, re-lined
or re-waxed. Its all part and
parcel of the Barbour service.
It is here that the longevity of
Barbour apparel is revealed. Itss
surprising how many people
would rather pay for repairs thann

44 | JUNE/JULY 2015


Win a Barbour Bedale waxed jacket, worth 219, the

quintessential all-weather coat, ideal for both town and country lifestyles

ow a fifth-generation family-owned business, Barbour is
well known for its classic and functional clothing and has
A unisex Bedale waxed jacket from Barbours Classic collection.
gone from strength to strength since it was founded over
120 years ago in South Shields, North East England. BY POST: Send your answer, name, and contact details to Barbour jacket
The brand began when founder John Barbour saw a niche in the competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road,
supply of outerwear to local fishermen, rivermen and dock workers Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
in the form of weatherproof garments. Barbour quickly became ONLINE: Visit and click on Competitions &
renowned for its innovative and practical clothing. Offers to enter the competition online.
With three Royal Warrants to its name, Barbour now makes TERMS & CONDITIONS: Entry closing date 31 August 2015. Prize includes a Barbour
everything from shoes and socks to jumpers, shirts and trousers, Bedale waxed unisex jacket (the winner will be contacted for their jacket size preference).
and, of course, the famous wax jackets. It has become an Subject to availability. No cash alternative. Employees and relatives of Chelsea Magazine
Company, Barbour, and associated suppliers are not eligible. The winners name may be
internationally renowned brand, sold in over 40 countries including published. By entering this competition you agree and acknowledge that The Chelsea
Germany, Spain, Japan and the US. Magazine Company is permitted to receive your registration data.
One of the most popular Barbour jackets made in the South 
Shields factory is the Bedale waxed jacket, designed by Dame
Margaret Barbour in 1980. It was the companys first lightweight,
thorn-proof jacket, designed specifically with equestrian
In what year was Barbour founded? 
practicalities in mind. The shorter length, tailored fit and rear vents
make it perfect for horse riding, while the medium weight 6oz wax, A 1894 B 1750 C 1995
stormfly front and hand warmer pockets ensure it is suitable for
NAME .................................................................................................................
use all year round, come rain or shine.
Today, the Bedale, while still used for horse riding, has evolved ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
into an essential multi-purpose jacket worn by men and women in ............................................................................................................................
both town and country, whether its for dog walking, the school
................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
run or anytime a weatherproof jacket is required to provide
protection against the unpredictable weather. EMAIL .................................................................................................................
For more details about Barbour visit
I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information


Stonehenge is
one of the worlds
most famous
round structures
46 | JUNE/JULY 2015
Circular buildings are nothing new. Some of the oldest forms of shelter were round
in shape and, as illustrated by a wealth of annular structures across Britain, it seems
our fascination with the past continues to influence designs of the future

heres something inherently beautiful about a First opened as an office block, it was designed to
circular building. Its curved walls gently turn look like a candle and architect James Roberts had
away from you, wherever you might be standing. proposed a flame-like weather beacon for the roof to
Its intriguing, too, always keeping something complete the effect. Sadly, it never appeared. The Rotunda
back in a way that a flat-faced block simply cant. closed for refurbishment in 2004 and reopened four
Rectangular buildings show you the whole of each years later as the site of 232 luxury apartments, with the
side in one go, but circular buildings call you forward, top four floors converted to fully serviced flats available
inviting you to explore what might lie around that for short-term let and offering impressive views across
never-ending corner. Birmingham and beyond.
Two classics of the art celebrate their 50th birthdays this It has never been the citys tallest building nor its
year. Londons BT Tower and the landmark Rotunda in most attractive but it has long been Birminghams most
Birmingham are perfect examples of why round buildings recognisable feature. The modest entrance off New Street
simply work. Neither would be so striking with angular barely hints at the space within: the ramp that makes you
edges and slab-flat sides; they probably wouldnt have feel like youre entering a Bond villains lair, or lifts that
earned their Grade II listings and may well have been open on broad, circular landings in hot, flat colours.
pulled down for renovation. Tel: 0121 285 1290;
Circular buildings are far more striking than their
cuboid counterparts and confer practical benefits, too. BBC TELEVISION CENTRE, WHITE CITY
With a smaller external surface area, theyre more energy Wood Lane, London
efficient and in many cases theyre easier to build as With 14 acres of floor space, TV Centre was Britains
theres no need to square up their corners. No wonder bui
largest television complex. The iconic studios are built
yurts and tepees have provided safe, reliable dwellings around a central ring of offices that havee featured
fea in the
for millennia. Britain is home to many of Europes most titles and backdrops of so many BBC C sh
shows that they were
striking round buildings, in every style and age between hem
practically characters in and of themselves.
distant pre-history and the present day. Isnt it time we It opened in June 1960 afterr a nine-year, 10m build,
celebrated the genius of their design and explored the with the unique shape having ng come about by chance
stories behind each one? after architect Graham Dawbarnw drew a question mark
on an envelope while trying in to figure out the optimum
THE ROTUNDA, BIRMINGHAM layout. That question mark a morphed into the flooroor plan
New Street, Birmingham we know today.
Birminghams Grade II-listed Rotunda has dominated Gr
A statue of Helios, Greek s at the
God of the Sun, sits
the city skyline for five decades this year. Standing over mb
centre of the ring, symbolising n of television,
the radiation
the renovated Bullring shopping centre, the 25-storey and although this was originally a fountain,, it hasnt run
modernist tumbler cost 1m to build and topped out at o the water echoed around
for years as the sound of a the
twice its original intended height, but lacks the cinema doughnut and disturbed ed the office workers.
and skyline restaurant that had featured on the initial The site was sold for rredevelopment in 2012 2 and
plans. The top floor was built to rotate and originally although it will soon houseu offices and 1,000 homes,
om the
hosted adverts, then a digital clock, each of which have Grade II listing of certainn parts including the core
re ring
since been removed. and massive studio TC1 m means the BBC will be moving ving
nm JUNE/JULY 2015 | 47
Circular Buildings
back in as a tenant in 2017. It will also be home to a cinema
and branch of the Soho House members club, so will remain
open to the general public for the foreseeable future.


Main Road, Harwich, Essex
The Redoubt Fort was built on a hill but you wouldnt
believe it. The surrounding land was packed up against the
walls of its dry moat, giving it a sunken appearance and a
very low profile that presented a slim target for enemy fire.
Despite this, the views from its guns stretch across the
Stour estuary from northern Essex to the shores of Suffolk.
It was built in 1808 as a defence against Napoleonic invasion
and locals speak of French prisoners being forced to aid its
construction. But although the guns were updated over the
years to fire heavier shells ever further, it never saw action.
Its only use in the Second World War was as a prison for
British soldiers sent home to face trial.
It fell out of use soon after, and although it spent years
rotting and falling apart, it later underwent extensive repairs

Above: The Rotunda in Birmingham city centre. Below: BBC Television Centre. Bottom: Redoubt Fort in Harwich never came under fire

and is now a museum one of the towns many

highlights with static exhibits in the previous
bunk rooms and armouries, and many heavy guns
still in place. It is open every Sunday throughout the
year and daily between 1 May and 30 September.
Admission is 3. Redoubt simply means circular
fort, and youll find similar defences in Dymchurch
in Kent and Eastbourne in East Sussex (see page 60).


Bankside, South Bank, London
The Globe, on Londons South Bank, sits just 228.6m
from the site of its namesake, the 16th-century
theatre famed for hosting the full canon of
Shakespeares remarkable plays.
The building we see today may resemble
the original, with its open roof and standing
space at the centre (called the Yard), but its
still less than 20 years old, having opened
in 1997. The original Globe went up in
flames in 1613 during a performance of
Henry VIII; its replacement was pulled
down by the Puritans in 1644 and its
foundation was later discovered in 1989
beneath a car park on nearby Park Street.
In much the same way that nobody truly
knows who Shakespeare was, theres a
degree of uncertainty as to the dimensions
and make-up of the original theatre.
Nonetheless, the modern recreation has
an air of authenticity and there can be few
better places from which to view the Bards
work. Behind-the-scenes tours cost 13.50 JUNE/JULY 2015 | 49

Circular Buildings
for adults and 8 for children (under fives go free),
while standing tickets for shows start at just 5.
Tel: 020 7902 1400;

Mount Pleasant, Liverpool
Liverpool was a 19th-century hub for Catholic
Irish emigrants heading to the US. Inevitably
some arrived in Britain and stayed, bolstering the
citys Catholic population and its need of a new
cathedral. The present circular building, opened in
1967, was the fourth attempt at sating that need,
with two earlier projects abandoned when only
small chapels had been built and the third never
making it off the drawing board.
Its topped by a lantern tower filled with red,
yellow and blue stained glass the three colours
representing the Trinity that bathes the interior
in tinted light. The marble altar is directly beneath
this, with the pews arranged round it to ensure a
clear view for congregations of up to 2,000 people. Thirteen
chapels surround the main body of the church, and although
its structure is predominantly concrete, the facing of Portland
Stone gives its modern exterior a classic finish.
The cathedral is open daily from 7.30am and even
offers free guided tours (suggested donation 3). More
unusually, the crypt the oldest part of the cath
cathedral as it
arli abandoned
was to form the basement of one of the earlier,
th attracts drinkers
designs hosts an annual beer festival that
from around the world.
Tel: 0151 709 9222;


Radcliffe Square, Oxford
What you see of the Radcliffe Camera io of its
is just a fraction
ch means room wass financed
total size. The Camera which

Top: Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King. Above: The Radcliffe Camera was completed in 1749. Below: Shakespeares Globe theatre

from the will of a local doctor, John Radcliffe, who in 1714

left 40,000 to fund its construction, on top of an annual
book-buying budget of 100. Completed in 1749, its the
oldest circular library in Britain and stood independent of the
surrounding university for more than 100 years. In 1912 it
was connected to the Bodleian Library next door by means of
an underground tunnel and its now home to the universitys
English, history and theology collections.
Its well known to TV and film viewers, with prominent
appearances in Inspector Morse and the Young Sherlock
Holmes. It was also said by Oxford author JRR Tolkien to
resemble Saurons temple to Morgoth. Its not open to the
general public outside of the official extended tour, which
costs 13 and should be booked in advance at
If you dont have 90 minutes to follow the tour, theres
nothing to stop you admiring its Palladian architecture
from the outside, with broad and unobstructed views from

50 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Bespoke tours of the
historic cathedral city HIDDEN
01522 521211 LINCOLN
Circular Buildings
Oxfords Catte Street and Radcliffe Square. of Europe. Eight miles north of Salisbury, Stonehenge is a
Tel: 01865 277 162; UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site that took at least
1,500 years to complete and is built on a site that bears
GCHQ, CHELTENHAM evidence of construction stretching back 10 millennia. Its
Hubble Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire now owned by the Crown, having been bequeathed to the
The US has the Pentagon; Britain has the Doughnut. The nation in 1918 by Baronet Cecil Chubb after he bought it at
Government Communications Headquarters is one of auction for 6,600.
Britains biggest buildings and its most secure but upon its Despite the lack of transport or machinery, some of its
completion in 2003, the 71-hectare site was still too small to largest stones were brought to the site from more than 200
house all of Britains intelligence and cryptography spooks. miles away. Nobody quite knows how it was built or exactly
Designed by British architect Chris Johnson for American what it was used for, but cremated remains suggest it had a
firm, Gensler, the 330m Doughnut replaced more than 50 religious significance and better-preserved burials point to it
discrete buildings located in and around the Cheltenham once having been a site of pilgrimage for those chasing cures.
area, with the last staff to arrive claiming their desks in 2011. Timed tickets giving access to the monument cost 13.90
The construction itself was contracted out, but the actual for adults and 8.30 for children aged 5 to 15. It can also be
move after its completion was overseen by GCHQ itself so viewed at speed by drivers on the A303. The A344 that
that nobody else could touch its classified kit. passed to its north has been closed to make way for the new
Although it looks like an unbroken ring, the Doughnut is English Heritage visitor centre.
actually three buildings in one, squashed together and Tel: 0370 333 1181;
linked by corridors on the upper and lower floors. Combined, stonehenge
they provide 139,354m of office space, yet its overall
height of just 21m is surprisingly modest. With its use of THE CIRCUS, BATH
local limestone and recycled steel, its perhaps no surprise Bath, Somerset
that in 2004 it was nominated for an award to highlight Many consider John Woods
improvements to the built and landscaped environment by Royal Crescent to be the jewel
the Cheltenham Civic Society. in Baths crown and cruelly overlook his architectural
angel cake next door. The
STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE Circus was built layer on
Amesbury, Wiltshire layer with three distinct
Stonehenge dates back at least 5,000 years, and youd be architectural types sitting
hard pushed to find an older building than this in the whole on top of each other. Greek,

Below: Stonehenge attracts thousands of visitors each year. Inset: BT Tower was once Britains tallest building

52 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Roman and Corinthian styles adorn the 200m circumference Historian Dan Cruickshank named it one of Britains five
of this broken Georgian circle, which is decorated with more best buildings as late as 2006. It was once home to Thomas
than 500 sculptures and carvings, and topped by a crown Gainsboroughs portrait studio, and actor Nicholas Cage
of stone acorns. Upon its completion in 1768, the centre of bought a 4 million townhouse in the Circus in 2007; selling
the Circus, now a small park, was a paved reservoir, which the house, which once belonged to Pitt the Elder, in 2009.
supplied the surrounding houses with water.
The two developments work as one if you see the Circus
and Crescent as representing the sun and moon. Many BT TOWER, LONDON
claim that the use of these symbols is a nod towards the Cleveland Street, London
Freemasons. Although it was partly rebuilt following a Access to the Grade II-listed BT Tower, a hub of British
German bombing raid in 1942, the Circus looks just as communications, is strictly controlled. Its no longer open to
majestic today as it would have done when brand new. the general public, but if you can wangle a private invitation
to the rotating floors at the top of the 191m
structure, the views across central London and
Regents Park simply cannot be beaten.
It was Britains tallest building from 1964 until
1980 and although a public restaurant on the
upper floors was initially leased to Billy Butlin, of
holiday-camp fame, the structure was designated
an Official Secret and didnt appear on Ordnance
Survey maps until 1993.
Despite its age, it remains one of Londons
most recognisable towers and still plays a part in
television charity drives. Its distinctive shape was
settled upon as it offered the least wind resistance,
helping ensure the communications dishes once
mounted on its upper floors werent blown out
of alignment. The top two floors now sit behind
the worlds largest electronic display. The 278m
screen shows colourful graphics, messages and
countdowns to notable events. Q

Above: The Doughnut houses GCHQ and is actually three buildings in one. Below: The Circus covers a majestic circumference that extends 200m

54 | JUNE/JULY 2015
rowds gather on Liverpools waterfront on the the ships propeller was returned to its Opposite: Lusitania
same day every year. They congregate around Liverpool home. greeted by excited
crowds as it reaches
a rusty old ships propeller on the quayside I want the items in the gallery to
New York in 1907
outside the Merseyside Maritime Museum and speak for themselves, says Eleanor
bow their heads in silent contemplation. This is the annual Moffat, the Museums Curator of Maritime Collections.
commemoration for families connected to one of Britains These personal items are not necessarily worth much
most tragic maritime disasters, and this spring more than ever money, but when you learn the stories behind them, they
it proved a poignant affair. For 2015 is the 100th anniversary connect us first hand to our maritime heritage.
of the sinking of the Lusitania, and ongoing through the The Cunard Steamship Company was founded in Liverpool
year, as well as in a new permanent exhibition, the tragedy in 1839 and its head office remained in the city until 1967.
but also the good fortunes of the Cunard shipping company Today the Cunard Building, where the company relocated
are being thrown into the spotlight. its headquarters in 1916, is one of the World Heritage-listed
The Cunard liner, HMS Lusitania, made her maiden Three Graces on the Pier Head (along with The Royal Liver
transatlantic voyage out of Liverpool in 1907. In May 1915 Building and the Port of Liverpool Building). There are plans
she became a civilian casualty of the First World War when to open up the edifice this summer to visitors, running tours
she was torpedoed off the coast of Ireland by a German of the interior with its Italian marble columns and arches,
submarine. Some 1,192 people, many women and children, fifth floor Boardroom and ground floor pillared ticket hall,
perished in the disaster and the sinking became a turning plus the lounge for First Class passengers.
point in the war. Cunard rapidly expanded its business to include not only
To mark the centenary, the Merseyside Maritime Museum shipping across the Atlantic to the United States and Canada,
has opened its new permanent Lusitania exhibition, a space but also routes to ports in the Mediterranean and the Middle
devoted to the ill-fated liner. The exhibition tells the story East. By 1877 the company had 19 vessels on the Atlantic
of the disaster through the eyes of the people of Liverpool. run, 12 in service to the Mediterranean and Black Sea, and a
Its the latest chapter in a story that began in 1982 when further 13 serving Glasgow, Northern Ireland and Bermuda.

LEGACY Some of the greatest ocean liners in the world began their sailing lives
at Liverpool docks. This year the city marks two important maritime
anniversaries, adding to reasons to visit its seafaring heritage

History of Cunard

To celebrate an altogether happier anniversary, some a maritime mercantile city. Projects Above: The Queen
famous Cunard ships return to Liverpool this summer to continue to this day, the latest of Mary 2 adds to
the bright lights
mark 175 years from the inauguration of the companys which is to expand the new Liverpool
of Liverpool
transatlantic service out of Liverpool in July 1840. The three Cruise Terminal to accommodate ships
largest Cunard ships ever built, the Queen Mary 2, Queen carrying up to 3,500 passengers.
Elizabeth and Queen Victoria sailed back into the city Visitors to the city will find that all the main maritime
between 24-26 May to remember that historic moment. sights are contained within a one-mile sweep along the River
The Queen Mary 2 then sails on 4 July from Liverpool Mersey from the Cruise Terminal (Princes Dock) to the Echo
to New York, emulating to the day the journey of Britannia Arena (Kings Dock) via the Albert Dock museum quarter
175 years ago. This is the first time since January 1968 that a and the Pier Head, home to the Three Graces.
Cunard ship has departed from Liverpool bound for America. Heading left from the Cruise Terminal, past the Titanic
The sailing is preceded that day by a special commemorative Memorial, the first major attraction is the Museum of
concert at Liverpools Anglican Cathedral while light Liverpool. Opened in 2011, the angular, glass-fronted
projections onto the waterfront buildings over three nights building tells the story of the city and its people. The Great
recount the story of Liverpool at sea. Port gallery explores the development of the docks and the
Liverpool still feels a very strong link as Cunards spiritual tidal River Mersey, while the Global City gallery examines
home, says Eleanor Moffat. The citys wealth stems from Liverpools pivotal role in the expansion of the British
the golden era of the shipping lines in the 18th and 19th Empire. Look out for the evocative poem, The Gateway to
centuries. This period established Liverpool as a centre for the Atlantic, by the Liverpool-born poet Roger McGough, by
world trade and commerce. the entrance to the former.
The waterside walkway leads towards the Albert Dock,
TOUR OF THE DOCKS where Tate Liverpool has been bringing world-class
Each year, many thousands of visitors come to Liverpool exhibitions, including the Turner Prize, to the Liverpool
to explore its seafaring history. In 2004, UNESCO granted waterfront since the regeneration of the docklands in the late
World Heritage status to six areas of Liverpool, including 1980s. While youre browsing the minimalist gallery space,
some along the waterfront, in recognition of its standing as stop by the floor-to-ceiling windows to catch glimpses of the

56 | JUNE/JULY 2015

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History of Cunard


The new permanent exhibition Lusitania: Life, Loss,
Legacy provides poignant personal insights at the
Merseyside Maritime Museum
cityscape at different angles along the waterfront.
Located just across from Tate Liverpool is the Merseyside The exhibition divides into three sections: pre-war
Maritime Museum, incorporating the International Slavery beginnings, Liverpool during the First World War, and the
Museum on its upper floors. The latter explores Liverpools sinking of the Lusitania.
role in the transatlantic slave trade, opening the visit with Among the personal items on display are Captain
powerful quotes, such as Abraham Lincolns 1862 speech, In Dows sea chest, Captain Turners gold pocket watch and
giving freedom to the slave, we assure freedom to the free. handwritten accounts of the disaster from survivors, plus
For a greater understanding of Liverpools deep-rooted a deckchair and a lifejacket salvaged from the wreck and
relationship with Cunard and an opportunity to browse rare a cushion from the ships music room. The chest and the
items of maritime heritage, take a short stroll across the city lifejacket have never been on public display previously.
centre to the University of Liverpool Library. Its here, amid Lusitania was a symbol of Liverpools prestige and the
the hushed reverence of a reading room in the department of sinking came as a huge psychological shock to the city,
Special Collections and Archives, that members of the public explains Curator of Maritime Collections Eleanor Moffat.
can access the Cunard archive by prior appointment. In the aftermath, the story of the Lusitania became a
Liverpool University acquired the Cunard Steamship rallying call for war.
Company Archive in the 1960s and it has remained there The museum, meanwhile, has also created a Cunard
on long-term deposit ever since. It comprises over 400 linear 175 exhibition that will run from 3 July 2015. Here, the
metres of material and covers primarily the period from story of some of the most stylish ships in the world will be
1840-1990. The collection is arranged into 13 different told through the lives of people who sailed them and the
sections, including Chairmens Papers, Accounts and Public company that built them.
Relations records. The exhibition features objects from National Museums
Above: Home of
The archive is a treasure trove of Liverpools maritime history collections and archives that
shipping heritage
displays, Merseyside material, such as daily bulletin on-board will help visitors gain a better insight into the history of
Maritime Museum newsletters and menu cards. A January Cunards iconic vessels.
opened in 1980 1842 passenger list from the Britannia

58 | JUNE/JULY 2015

shows a certain Charles Dickens, his wife and her servant sailing from Liverpool
to Boston Dickens paid 40 pounds and 19 shillings for a cabin room. Meanwhile PLANNING
a collection of black-and-white photos from May 1928 of life on board HMS YOUR VISIT
Aquitania looks like scenes straight out of the popular TV series Downton Abbey. Getting there: By car, from the
Cunard archivist Sian Wilks has been collating a digital database of items from south leave the M6 at junction
the archive for the companys 175th anniversary. Taking the Cunard archive online 21A and take the M62 to
aims to widen access to both the local community and the increasing number of Liverpool, following the brown
international enquiries, including those from Canada and the United States, for signs for the Albert Dock. The
ancestry research. She is also sourcing items to feature in an exhibition of Cunard Q-Park Liverpool ONE car park
cruise posters at the University of Liverpools Victoria Gallery and Museum in is located at L1 8LT. By train,
October this year. Theres a lot of excitement about Cunard using Liverpool as a Virgin Trains (www.virgintrains.
port again. It reflects the pride the city feels about the regeneration of its historic runs regular rail services
waterfront, she says. to Liverpool Lime Street station
Sian handled some 600 item retrievals for visitors last year and regularly assists from London Euston and along
members of the public searching for family ancestry links the West Coast Main Line.
Below left: Cunard through the archive material. Its rare for someone to find a Tel: 08457 484 950;
poster featuring family member through the archive, but when it does happen
HMS Aquitania. its a great feeling, she smiles.
Below right: Tate Where to stay: 30 James
While the mood may be more sombre surrounding the
Liverpool is located Street is a newly opened
at Albert Dock. Lusitania commemoration, a sense of celebration and
Bottom: Lusitania revelling in the citys wealth of maritime heritage is blowing in boutique hotel on the
propeller off the River Mersey this year. Q waterfront. The hotel is located
in Albion House, the former

headquarters of the White Star

Line. The Great Hall function
room has a collection of
White Star Line memorabilia,
including black-and-white
footage of the announcement
of the Titanic disaster from the
balcony of room 22 on April 15,
1912; rooms from 75 per night,
excluding breakfast.
Tel: 0151 236 0166;
Where to eat: The Baltic Fleet
is a historic, dockside pub and
Liverpools only brewpub
conveniently located across
from the Albert Dock. The
Grade II-listed building is an
unapologetically no-frills
affair with a small collection of
nautical memorabilia. Tuck into
a plate of traditional Liverpool
scouse stew with a pint of
local craft ale.
Tel: 0151 709 3116; www.
Dont miss: The temporary
exhibition of vintage cruise
posters, Sail Away: Liverpool
Shipping Posters, runs until
October 2015 at the Merseyside
Maritime Museum.
More information: JUNE/JULY 2015 | 59

Ball boys and girls on
Eastbournes famous
grass courts ahead of
the tennis action

60 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Recognised as a British suntrap, the seaside town of
Eastbourne in East Sussex is popular over the summer
months as much for its tennis tournament as its weather

or those who find the wait for Wimbledon unbearable, it is possible to get a
tennis fix a little earlier in Eastbourne, where fans of the sport can combine
watching world-class tennis with a trip to the seaside.
The Aegon International Eastbourne tennis tournament takes place
20-27 June this year, offering players the opportunity to warm up for
Wimbledon the following week and spectators the chance to glimpse summer form.
Held at Devonshire Park, the tournament first started life as the Womens Tennis
Association (WTA) Premier tournament in 1974 and familiar faces such as Virginia
Wade, Martina Navratilova and Lindsey Davenport would go on to become
champions over the years. In 2009 the Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP) 250
Series tournament for men joined the women for a slice of the action and the Aegon
International tournament was born. However, this year will see a return to an all-
women event at Eastbourne as tournament director, Gavin Fletcher, explains:
With changes in the international calendar, plus the need for both mens and
womens draws to increase in size, it is necessary for the mens and womens events to
be split. As a consequence, the men will be moving to Nottingham from 2015, while
the womens event will remain in Eastbourne. We remain committed to hosting a
world-class tournament in Eastbourne and look forward to welcoming some of the
worlds best female players once again.
Devonshire Park is the towns oldest park and has been hosting Lawn Tennis since
the 1870s. It holds 13 tennis courts, which offer a great atmosphere and setting for the
tournament, and all a mere drop shot away from Eastbournes seafront and various
attractions. At the corner of Devonshire Park itself is the Towner art gallery, which
moved to its current location after a new 8.5m purpose-built gallery design was JUNE/JULY 2015 | 61

approved by Eastbourne Council in 2005. This year, the striped lighthouse overlooked by the cliffs of Beachy Head
gallery has opened a new permanent Ravilious room where a the highest chalk sea cliffs in Britain. Here, an experienced
selection of Eric Raviliouss watercolours can be viewed. guide provides details about the history and geology of the
Heading away from the bubble of excitement that area before you make the exhilarating journey back to the
surrounds the tennis at Devonshire Park, the seaside charm harbour, where there are many shops and cafes to explore.
of Eastbourne beckons. Dubbed as the sunniest place in the If youd prefer to travel at a gentler pace, follow the
UK (a claim also hotly contested by the likes of Hastings and Seafront Journey Planner information boards that lead
Jersey), the town has much to attract visitors in addition to its visitors along the coast to Sovereign Harbour. The trail
clement weather. takes in the main attractions along the seafront, such as the
The pearly-white facades of grand hotels, shops, tearooms impressive bandstand: first opened in 1935, it continues to
and ice-cream parlours line the towns seafront, host over 100 concerts each year, with the majority
echoing the gleaming white of the cliffs at Clockwise: held between May and September. The trail also
Beachy Head further down the coast. For those Eastbourne Pier; leads past Eastbournes iconic pier, which was
Towner gallery;
looking to blow away the cobwebs, a high-speed completed in 1872. In July 2014 the pier was badly
Beachy Head; take a
boat ride with Sussex Voyages can be arranged boat trip with Sussex damaged by fire, but it is now once again open for
from Eastbournes Sovereign Harbour, past the Voyages; concert at business while restoration work continues.
towns seafront and along to the red-and-white the bandstand As well as these elegant seaside structures built

62 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Eastbourne is the gateway to
the South Downs National
Park, an undulating
landscape of heathland,
river valleys and ancient
woodland. Here, it is
possible to tackle the South
Downs Way, a 100-mile
trail that traces a route from
Eastbourne, through the
National Park and up to
Winchester in Hampshire.
With most people taking
around nine days to
complete the entire trail, it
may be preferable to sample
bite-sized sections and
enjoy the National Parks
landscape, local market
towns and abundance of
wildlife along the way. to cater for crowds of happy holidaymakers, Eastbournes Above: The Aegon
The area was established as seafront holds some less frivolous architecture in the form International summer
a National Park in 2010 and of the Wish Tower. This is one of 74 Martello Towers that tournament draws
a huge crowd to
is the closest one to London. stood guard along the Kent and East Sussex coast during the
Eastbourne each year
The scenic surroundings have Napoleonic Wars and were later utilised during the Second
inspired the likes of JMW World War.
Turner, Jane Austen, Rudyard Eastbournes Redoubt Fortress also formed part of Britains defences against the
Kipling and even Elgar over force of Napoleon, or at least it would have, were it not for the fact that Nelson
the years. Meanwhile the famously defeated the combined French and Spanish fleet in 1805 only a year
areas ancient history is slowly after the fortress was commissioned. The fortress went on to be used as military
being revealed through a police headquarters during the First World War and an air raid shelter during the
project started in 2014, which Second World War. Redoubt was later bought by the local council and saw use as
has been delving beneath the a venue for a model village, an aquarium and even a crazy golf course.
ancient woodlands to find Today, the fortress has been restored to represent its original purpose and
traces of past communities houses a museum that charts over 200 years of military history, allowing visitors
that lived and worked across to learn more about the building itself and its place in local life. Uniforms, medals
the South Downs. and weapons are all on display along with film footage of Eastbourne during
Since the Bronze Age, the Second World War. Visitors can also discover what life was like for soldiers
the South Downs area has during Napoleonic times through a range of displays as 2015 marks 200 years
been used for agricultural since the Battle of Waterloo.
purposes and, compared to Eastbourne holds other, less conspicuous museums, too, capturing completely
the countrys older National different aspects of local heritage. The quirky How We Lived Then is

Parks, a large proportion Eastbournes museum of shops where it is possible to get lost in nostalgia across
continues to be farmed four floors of old shop fronts, room settings and eclectic product displays. From
here. In more recent years, Cadburys and Coca-Cola to Heinz tomato soup, over 100,000 exhibits chart the
vineyards have also been history of household products and packaging. Meanwhile, back on the seafront,
making use of the areas the little Eastbourne Lifeboat Museum provides information about the Royal
levels of sunshine, rainfall National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI). Housed in the towns old lifeboat house,
and chalky soil, which help to which was constructed in 1898 and became the RNLIs first museum in 1936,
create the perfect conditions it charts around 200 years of saving lives at sea. Today, the towns new lifeboat
for growing grapes to make station is based at Sovereign Harbour.
sparkling wines. Back on the tennis courts, Eastbournes claim to fame as the sunniest place in
Its agricultural virtues the UK means its perhaps less likely that rain will stop play here than at other
aside, visitors to the area tournaments. As the annual event returns to its roots as an all-ladies tournament
can simply enjoy rambling and the town is shaken from its summer peace by the excited roar of tennis fans
through the captivating at Devonshire Park, its a great time to visit, whatever the weather. Q
scenery of Britains newest
National Park. For more information about the Aegon International, visit To discover more about Eastbourne, go to JUNE/JULY 2015 | 63


Win a three-night break, 22-24 June, at the five-star Grand Hotel,

along with Centre Court tickets to the Aegon International Eastbourne

njoy the experience of watching world-class tennis at the BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Grand Hotel
Aegon International Eastbourne, while indulging in some Competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road,
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
strawberries and Pimms at Devonshire Park: all part of a
wonderful three-night break for two people at the ONLINE: Visit and click on Competitions &
prestigious Grand Hotel. Offers to enter the competition online.
The Aegon International Eastbourne tennis championship runs
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 12 June 2015. Prize only available on
from 20-27 June and is the high-calibre sporting event of dates stated, 22, 23, 24 June 2015. Prize valid for up to two people. There is no cash
Eastbournes calendar. Relax in the sunshine at the historic alternative. Centre Court tickets for the Aegon International Eastbourne are valid for two
Devonshire Park, with Centre Court tickets on Wednesday 24 June, people on 24 June 2015 only. Vouchers supplied for strawberries and Pimms for two people.
Grand Hotel spa treatments not included. Coffee and cake at Western View up to the value
watching top players battle it out for a place in the quarter-finals. of 15.00. Whole prize is not transferable and travel costs are not included. Employees (and
The prize includes three nights, 22-24 June, at the five-star relatives) of The Chelsea Magazine Company are not eligible to enter. Winners names may
be published. By entering this competition you agree and acknowledge that The Chelsea
Grand Hotel, staying in an executive room with spectacular views Magazine Company is permitted to receive your registration data.
of the South Downs and Eastbournes Victorian seafront. Not only 
that, but the lucky winners will also enjoy use of the hotels health
club, with its indoor and outdoor pool, gym and spa facilities.
Your summer break will be topped off with coffee and cake at HOW TO ENTER
Western View, Eastbournes west-facing suntrap cafe. Where is Eastbourne located? 
For more information about the tennis tournament, visit A South coast B West coast C North coast To find out more about
the Grand Hotel, see NAME .................................................................................................................

THE PRIZE ADDRESS ............................................................................................................

Enjoy a three-night break for two people at the Grand Hotel, ............................................................................................................................
Eastbourne on a B&B basis for the nights of 22, 23 and 24 June ................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
2015, plus Centre Court Aegon International Eastbourne tickets EMAIL .................................................................................................................
for 24 June and coffee and cake at Western View. I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information
Richmond Castle is one
of the greatest Norman
fortresses in Britain.
Opposite: View along
the River Swale
66 | JUNE/JULY 2015

The town of Richmond, gateway to the North Yorkshire Dales, grew around a
Norman castle and has prospered through the centuries. Now it is a popular
place to visit, with a compelling history and fine local Yorkshire produce

tanding on the edge of the steep and lofty drop the niches in the stonework. The main means of entry to the
down to the rushing River Swale it is not hard to living quarters is via a staircase to the right of the tower and
see why this place was known as Riche Mont, across a roof above the present entrance.
strong hill, and was the obvious place to site an The founder of the castle is thought to be Alan Rufus,
11th-century Norman fortress. The now softened and who was related to William the Conqueror and fought at
Anglicised Richmond Castle, one of several built around the head of the troops from Brittany that took part in the
England in the wake of the Conquest in 1066, is thought to be Battle of Hastings. He gave a number of Breton knights
the best-preserved structure of its age and size in the country. positions of power and prestige in the running of the castle
It is also a perfect example of how a new settlement grew and in occupying the surrounding countryside to assert his
up around these Norman demonstrations of baronial wealth dominance over the defeated localAnglo-Saxon nobility.
and power, as the town of Richmond developed around On the other side of the vast grassed courtyard, which
the fortifications providing workshops and artisan living would once have been filled with domestic buildings, lies the
accommodation, food production and markets sufficient to substantial ruins of Scollands Hall, named after a
the castles needs. Nowadays, there are many narrow lanes 12th-century constable of the castle who served it for more
to explore, running down the hill and lined with interesting than 60 years. The hall is reputed to be the earliest domestic
buildings from medieval times, through Georgian, Victorian interior still surviving in England and would have had a
and onwards, with many small shops alongside the modern, large communal room and solar (or withdrawing room for
and plenty of cafes and restaurants and
coaching inns.
The cobbled market square with Trinity
Church and the market cross, called the
Obelisk, dominating the wider end of its
elongated triangle is connected by a narrow
street directly to the castle keep. A grand
archway on the ground floor of the keep
was the first imposing entrance to the castle.
Originally there would have been only the
archway set in the curtain wall, with possibly
balconies above overlooking the marketplace.
But, in the mid-12th century the great
four-storey tower that can be seen today was
added on top and in front of the arch. This
contains several rooms, including a great
hall. The stone-flagged ground-floor that now
opens only internally onto the castle courtyard
provides entrance to the cellars and shows signs
of being a favoured roost for a barn owl, along
with the ubiquitous feral pigeons that occupy JUNE/JULY 2015 | 67

Richmond Castle

Left: The Victorian

Market Hall is home
to an indoor market
Below: The
Georgian Theatre
Royal is one of
Britains oldest
theatres and was
constructed in 1788

the nobility) on the first floor, and storage rooms in the

undercroft. The latter is where you can stand today looking
up at the square sockets that would have held the original hall
floor and the grand windows that would have illuminated it.
The fact that this castle was built more as an impressive
and comfortable house for the Norman lord than as a fortress
is evidenced by the gardens, which are thought to have been
designed when the castle was built. There are clues that there
once was a wooden balcony leading off the solar and giving
views over a recreational space running down the hillside in
the walled area that has come to be known as the Cockpit.
A heritage garden with First World War commemorative
topiary now occupies the site.
Richmond Castle has had varying fortunes over the years, of the war effort. However, some refused even that work
being passed backwards and forwards between favourites and 16 of them were imprisoned in the castle before being
of the Crown or being administered by the ruling monarch sent to France. If they would not face the enemy there, it was
himself. By the time of a survey of property in 1538 the said, they would be court marshalled and executed. In the
castle had become derelict and so it remained for the event, they were tried and sentenced to 10 years hard labour.
next 300 years, latterly being visited by Victorian tourists Graffiti drawn on the walls of their Richmond Castle cells,
including the artist JMW Turner, who painted the ruins. and still there to be seen, tells a poignant story of these men.
In 1845, however, the castle was once more allowed to Before you enter the castle itself, an exhibition in the
fulfil an important function as it was leased by the Duke of Visitor Centre paints a colourful picture of its history and
Richmond to the Army and became the base for the North the growth of the town of Richmond. It was a prosperous
York Militia. Barrack blocks were built in the courtyard and place, particularly in Georgian times, and one of the sights
the Militia occupied it until 1908 when it was turned over to that should not be missed is the exquisite Georgian Theatre
the Northern Territorial Army. Lord Baden-Powell, founder Royal down the hill from the marketplace. It was built and
of the Scouts movement, was in charge of the troops there managed by the actor Samuel Butler in 1788 and was used
for two years. for performances until 1830. After that it became an auction
During the First World War the castle premises again room and wine store and then was abandoned and hidden for
changed hands, becoming the centre for the Northern decades. Rediscovered and renovated in the 1960s, it is now
Non-Combatant Corps. This was a uniformed branch of the Britains most complete Georgian playhouse with its sunken
Army for conscientious objectors who, on the grounds of pit, rows of wooden, pillared boxes down each side and small
religious or moral beliefs, refused to be involved in active gallery at the back. The furthest you can sit from the stage is
military roles. In the Non-Combatant Corps they were just over 10m and the performing space is only 4.71m wide.
subject to a military regime and employed in other aspects In the market square, next to Trinity Church, is the Green

68 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Right: The ruin of
Easby Abbey.
Below: Richmonds
Obelisk and Trinity
Church are at
the centre of the

Howards Museum, telling the story of the famous infantry

regiment that dates back to 1690 and the Battle of the
Boyne in Ireland it now forms part of the larger Yorkshire
Regiment. It received battle honours in the Crimean War, on
the Indian frontier, in the Boer War and the First and Second
World Wars and these stories are told in the exhibits in the
museum, which include diaries, letters and service journals
giving a human face to conflict.
About a mile downstream of the castle are the ruins of
Easby Abbey and its enormous monastic complex. In the
Middle Ages this mass of buildings was enclosed by a high
wall with a gatehouse, past which it is now possible to reach
the more modern parish church of Easby. Turner, on his tour
of the area, also painted Easbys ruins and you can stand in
the exact spot he would have done and compare what you
can see with a reproduction of his painting. Q


Getting there: By car, the Each of the nine rooms that catches the afternoon Cross View Tea Rooms is
town is four miles from has individual character, sun. A spa is also planned for located in a listed Georgian
Scotch Corner, the junction with open rafters, exposed summer 2015. building on Richmonds
of the north/south A1 timber beams, spacious Tel: 01325 377 977 cobbled marketplace.
with the east/west A66. By bathrooms and chic Ingredients come from local
train, the nearest station is furnishings. The Hayloft suppliers and traditional
Darlington, which is 12 miles Rooms are themed to Where to eat: Coach House home-made cakes are
away. You can also fly to the subjects such as Swallows Restaurant at Middleton baked on site. www.
Durham Tees Valley airport, and Amazons, with sailboat Lodge, Middleton Tyas. The
less than 18 miles away. decorations and flying bird restaurant has a rustic feel
motifs on the cushions, with the wood panelling More information:
Where to stay: Middleton and a copy of the book and stone flags from the Richmond information:
Lodge is a private country to transport you back to original stables. The food,

house six miles from childhood. The Tack Room devised by Chef Gareth Richmond Castle: www.
Richmond. The coach has a wood-burning stove, Rayner, is modern British
house and stables have super-king bed and private using the very best of Theatre Royal: www.
been converted to luxury courtyard garden. The Yorkshire produce.
accommodation and an Garden Rooms have their Tel: 01325 377 977; The Green Howards Museum:
award-winning restaurant. own outdoor seating area www. JUNE/JULY 2015 | 69


Discover a wealth

of Royal history at
Windsor Castle
(see page 75) APRIL/MAY 2015 | 71

Escape | Days Out

The secluded beach

at Sandwood Bay

Top five beaches CROSBY BEACH

If youre looking for a little more than
just sand and sea, pay a visit to Antony
NATIONWIDE Gormleys Another Place on Crosby
Beach. This permanent art installation
With summer now underway its time to dig out your bucket consists of up to 100 cast iron models
and spade, dust off your swimwear and head to the beach of the artists body facing out to sea.
Covering around two miles of beach, the

figures can be seen buried waist-deep
s part of an island nation, everyone in Britain is less than 90 miles from the in the sand, standing in the shallows or
countrys sandy shores and rugged coastline, and what better way to spend a almost submerged half a mile out to sea.
warm summers day than on one of Britains beaches. Whether youre looking
for a suitable picnic spot, somewhere to laze the day away or something a
little more active, the diverse shores of Britain attract visitors from across the country LYME REGIS
(and further afield) over the summer months. DORSET
The draw of the shore has been pulling in the crowds since Georgian and Victorian Forming part of the Jurassic Coast
times, when the well-to-do would holiday at the seaside to reap the benefits of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, this beach
clean air and the assumed benefits of drinking seawater! Towns such as Lyme Regis in is teeming with fossils. Theres no need
Dorset, Tenby in Pembrokeshire and Margate in Kent were among those frequented by for specialist archaeological tools, or
wealthy visitors who paved the way for the towns continued popularity today. From even a brightly-coloured plastic spade,
curious Victorian bathing machines contraptions resembling a beach hut on wheels as the crumbling cliffs and wash of the
that helped refined ladies enter the water beyond prying eyes and so preserve their tide do all the hard work for keen-eyed
modesty to donkey rides and the bright lights of Blackpool, the seaside has remained fossil hunters who will be able to spot
a firm favourite with British holiday makers over the years. If youre looking to follow in a bounty of ammonites, as well as
this long tradition and head to the beach this summer, weve put together a list of five small fragments from the skeletons of
very different, but equally wonderful options across the country that are well worth a ichthyosaurs and plesiosaurs. For those
visit whether you want to join the crowds or escape them altogether. who want to learn more about the fossils

72 | JUNE/JULY 2015

found here, or gain some expert tips for what to reaches of Scotland, this beach is said to be
look out for among the pebbles, regular guided one of the best and most secluded in the
fossil walks can be booked in advance through country. Paying a visit here involves a
the Lyme Regis Museum. four-mile trek across moorland, but the effort is well rewarded with dramatic views
out across the North Atlantic.
Overlooked by Tenbys colourful collection of GWITHIAN AND GODREVY
Victorian townhouses, this sheltered curve of NEAR HAYLE, CORNWALL
golden sand holds pride of place along the Cornwall has long been known as a hotspot
towns seafront between the Harbour Beach for surfing, with many of its beaches
and North Cliffs. With shops and cafes along the attracting amateurs and experts alike each
promenade and an ice-cream van that makes year. Whether youre a seasoned surfer or

its way down onto the sands, North Beach is keen to test your balancing skills and ride
the perfect spot for family picnics. Children will the waves for the first time this summer, the
love exploring rock pools along this Blue Flag adjoining beaches of Gwithian and Godrevy
beach while never being too far away from the cater for all abilities. Beginners can make Top left: Antony
watchful eyes of their parents! their way over the sand dunes to the gentle Gormleys Another surf of Gwithian Beach in St Ives Bay, while Place adds to the
experts at hanging ten can head to Godrevy interest at Crosby.
SANDWOOD BAY for something a little more challenging. If you Top right: Surfs up
at Gwithian, Cornwall.
SUTHERLAND, SCOTLAND prefer to stay out of the water altogether and
Above middle:
If your idea of the perfect beach is white merely watch the pros at work, there are some North Beach, Tenby.
sand, a turquoise sea and hardly a soul in great cliff-top viewing points from Godrevy Above: Ammonites
sight, Sandwood Bay may be the beach for Head, where surfers and seals can be seen and other fossils can
you (as long as youre not expecting tropical at play around the headland. be found along the
temperatures). Located in the northwest Q coast at Lyme Regis JUNE/JULY 2015 | 73

Escape | Days Out

Top left: Windsor

Windsor Castle
Castles Round Tower.
Top right: 1st Duke
of Wellington.
Above: The castles
Waterloo Chamber.
200 years after Napoleons momentous defeat at Waterloo, Inset: Napoleons red
cloak is on display
discover more about the battle and its aftermath at Windsor Castle

Getting here:
s Europe remembers the Battle of Waterloo Castles grandest state rooms and a permanent By car, take the M4
this June, Windsor Castle, which has been monument to the battle. The chamber holds 37 to Junction 6 or the
home to British kings and queens for nearly portraits of people who were instrumental in the M3 to Junction 3.

1,000 years, is marking the anniversary victory. Dominating the room is the portrait of the Windsor Castle is
with a special exhibition revealing the fascination Duke of Wellington, who led the British troops in the situated off the High
of past monarchs with Waterloo and the French Allied victory. Street near the town
Emperor Napoleon. The largest and oldest inhabited castle in the world, centre. There is no
George IV collected an array of items linked to Windsor clearly displays the taste and influence of parking at the castle.
Napoleon and the battle which are on display the 39 monarchs who have lived here. The State By train, Windsor
throughout Windsors State Apartments. Visitors will Apartments hold some of the Royal Collections and Eton Central or
be able to see Napoleons red felt cloak, embroidered most important works of art, including pieces by Windsor and Eton
with silver thread and lined with yellow silk brocade, Rembrandt and Rubens, many of them in the same Riverside are both
approximately a
which was seized from his baggage train at the battle. setting they were commissioned for.
10-minute walk.
Other highlights include a Chippendale chair, made During a visit to the castle, dont miss the worlds
More information:
from an elm tree which stood on the ridge where most famous dolls house, which features electricity, Waterloo at Windsor
the Duke of Wellington made the final advance on running water and even flushing toilets. Built by runs until 13 January
Napoleon, and The Table des Grands Capitaines, renowned British architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, Queen 2016. Windsor
commissioned by Napoleon to immortalise his reign Marys Dolls House also boasts tiny contents made Castle, Windsor,
and decorated with images of great leaders and with incredible attention to detail by leading artists Berkshire SL4 1NJ.
philosophers of the past. and craftsmen right down to the library with original Tel: 020 7766 7304.
George IVs great personal interest in Napoleon led works by famous authors of the day and a fully www.royalcollect
him to create the Waterloo Chamber, one of Windsor stocked wine cellar. Q JUNE/JULY 2015 | 75

Escape | Days Out

Top left: Arundells

dates from the 1700s.
Top right: The
Drawing Room.
Above: Sir Edward
Heath in his youth
Visit the former Salisbury home of Sir Edward Heath as a new exhibition space
opens to mark 50 years since he became leader of the Conservative Party Getting there:
By car, from London

exit M3 at junction
he first leader of the Conservative Party not about Sir Edwards private life and pastimes as well 8 to join A303 to
to have been educated at a public school, Sir as his political career. As a world-class yachtsman, Sir Salisbury. From the
Edward Heath would go on to become Prime Edward is the only British Prime Minister to have won south follow A30
Minister from 1970 to 1974. Heaths term in an international sporting trophy, the Admirals Cup then A303. From
office came at a time of economic uncertainty that an esteemed honour among sailing aficionados. the north, take
would see a number of industrial strikes take place in Sir Edwards collection of yachting memorabilia M40, A34 and A303.
Britain, including the miners strikes of 1972 and 1974. is also on display in the house, including seascapes By train, Salisbury
Sir Edward died in 2005 and his Grade II-listed and trophies along with pictures and models of his station is 15 minutes
former home in Salisbury was opened to the public Morning Cloud boats, which he raced competitively away on foot.
in 2008; it remains largely as he left it to this day. The from 1969 until 1986. More information:
impressive 18th-century house and its two acres of Tragically the third of his five Morning Cloud Open for guided
walled garden have seen the addition of a designated boats was lost in a storm off the coast of Sussex in tours Sat-Wed
until 4 November.
exhibition space this year in time to mark the 50th September 1974 with the loss of two crew members,
Booking is
anniversary of Sir Edward becoming the leader of Christopher Chadd and Nigel Cumming. The bow of
the Conservative Party. The exhibition Ready, Steady, Morning Cloud 3 has been retrieved and restored and Also open Bank
Go: Images of Britain in 1965 opens this summer is being loaned to Arundells as a memorial. Holiday Sun- Mon.
and will set this event in the wider context of social A unique mix of political, sailing and musical Arundells, 59
change. Meanwhile, another exhibition, Heath the artefacts and memorabilia can be found throughout Cathedral Close,
Soldier, runs until early July and explores Sir Edwards the house, reflecting Heaths achievements as a Salisbury, Wiltshire
military record and his experiences of war, which were statesman, musician and art collector. For anyone

fundamental to forming his political views. with an interest in British politics, Arundells is a fitting Tel: 01722 326 546.
Visitors to Arundells will also be able to learn more tribute to Sir Edwards life and legacy. Q

76 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Lake District, Lake District Fringes
and Eden Valley

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Escape | Weekend Away


Armley Mills
With just 26 seats, this mini-cinematic
experience is a far-cry from the vast,
high-tech auditoriums of today.
Although a replica design, it is true to
the original 1920s cinemas that once
dotted the land, complete with fixtures
and fittings salvaged from Armleys
old Palace Picture House, which closed
in 1964. Perhaps the most modern
addition is its DVD projector, replacing
the celluloid versions of old. Today, the
cinema shows a range of short movies
for special film nights, events and private
hire, after its day job duties as an exhibit
in its own right at Leeds Industrial
Museum are completed.

Known for its vibrant nightlife, shops and events,
Leeds also holds a variety of hidden assets

heres much to love about Leeds. With entertainment
geared to please its student contingent, the city also HENRY MOORE SCULPTURE
has quieter spaces of beauty and a few surprises. Leeds Art Gallery
Dont miss the Leeds Food and Drink Festival from
The 20th-century Yorkshire-born artist
22 May to 7 June, with its cookery demonstrations and stalls
and sculptor became a household name
laden with the regions finest fare. Sport is in the spotlight too
in the British art establishment, honing
this year, with the Rugby World Cup 2015 scheduled to arrive in Getting there: By
his talent at Leeds Art College where he
the city from 26-27 September, while on the back of last years car, Leeds is easily
accessible via the M1 paved the way for others in sculpture
major cycling event, the Grand Dpart of the Tour de France, a
from the north and the college even set him up with his own
new bike race will be staged, giving amateurs the opportunity
south, and the M62 studio. Among the gallerys various works
to experience the route ridden by the pros.
east and west. By train, by Moore is the Reclining Woman: Elbow
Heritage left over from the medieval and industrial ages is Virgin Trains serve bronze, situated on a plinth at Henry
a reminder of times that saw great prosperity in the region. Leeds from London
Moores request, just outside the gallery.
Examples of this are Kirkstall Abbey, just over three miles Kings Cross, while
CrossCountry operate
Another eye-catching work currently on
from the centre; and Armley Mills, the worlds largest woollen
from the south-west show here is Three Motives against Wall
mill. Discover prehistoric finds, such as the Leeds Tiger, at the
routes through the No.1 (1958), on display until 24 March 2016.
City Museum, and visit Leeds Art Gallery to view a significant
Midlands to Leeds. To Visitors may like to pop to the adjoining
collection of 20th-century works. In October 2015, the gallery book your tickets go to Henry Moore Institute, a research centre,
will host the prestigious British Arts Show, which showcases exhibition venue and sculpture archive.
the best work of emerging and established talent the largest More information:
touring exhibition of contemporary art in Britain.

78 | JUNE/JULY 2015

The Brotherton Library, University of Leeds
Tucked away in the Brotherton Collection the private
library amassed in the 1920s by Yorkshire industrialist
Sir Edward Allen Brotherton that came to the university
in 1936 is this 17th-century miniature bookcase
bound within a large leather volume. Inside are three
shelves holding a collection of ornately designed works.
Commissioned by MP William Hakewell as gifts for
his friends, this particular library was made for an Irish
family, the Maddens, whose family coat of arms can be
seen on the inside cover. of Exete

Chapel Roundhay


Bramley Woodhouse


Temple Newsam
The Tudor-Jacobean mansion of
Temple Newsam is a treasure in itself
Beeston M1 and its furnishings are suitably lavish.
The most significant Chippendale
piece is the Harewood writing table,
made by Thomas Chippendale the
Elder (1718-79), for the Library of
Edwin Lascelles at Harewood House.
Considered the ultimate of late 18th-
century English marquetry furniture, it
reached a record sale price of 41,000
at auction in 1965. Exposure to
Royal Armouries, Leeds daylight has reduced its lustre but the
This near-complete 16th/17th- elaborate decoration is a spectacle.
century elephant suit of armour
protected the pachyderm from
threat during the (pre-firearm)
era of wars in India. The suit
as it stands weighs 118kg, and
complete would have been 159kg
a number which ensured its
place within the Guinness Book
of World Records as the worlds
largest and heaviest armour.
Engraved with scenes from
nature, it comprises 8,450 iron
plates held together by rivets. JUNE/JULY 2015 | 79

T H E E X C E P T I O N A L , F O R T H E M O R E I N D I V I D U A L . Uncompromising craftsmanship
marries smooth, resilient Bridle Hide leather to the iconic, vibrant London Tan
calf within. Elegantly simple and rened in detail. Though only time reveals the
deeper, richer beauty of the leather a patina as singular in character as you are.




Explore romantic
ruins on the edge
of Loch Ness
(see page 91) APRIL/MAY 2015 | 81

ESCAPE TO Inverness-shire


Head to the Scottish Highlands where the dramatic landscape is speckled
with wildlife, castles and history as well as the highest restaurant in Britain

he city of Inverness is regarded fortresses, some now only romantic ruins, Ancient Caledonian pine forests on the
as the Capital of the Highlands of which all have a tale to tell. lower slopes of Cairngorm Mountain host
Scotland. The mighty Loch Ness, The River Spey runs through this a wealth of wildlife little seen in other
famous throughout the world landscape and its soft, peaty waters parts of the country. Red squirrels, pine
for its legendary monster, leads from have given rise to many of Scotlands marten, capercaillie, black grouse, Scottish
Inverness right across the narrow waist of most famous whisky brands. Most of the crossbills and crested tits can be spied out
the country and serves, in part, to link the distilleries are open to visitors to see the among the trees if youre patient enough.
North Sea with the Atlantic. magic of turning grain into world-class At Loch Garten and the Loch of the
The area around Inverness reveals a Speyside single malts. Lowes in the summer months there are
dramatic story of the Scottish clans and The Cairngorm mountain range good opportunities to see ospreys nesting,
their fight for their land throughout dominates the country south of Inverness. while on the heather hillsides you can
history, in particular to save it from the Its snow-capped peaks provide skiing and find red deer and wild goats across this
grasping hands of the English. As a other winter sports in season, with walking untamed landscape.
consequence there are many castles and and climbing in the warmer months.

82 | APRIL/MAY 2015

Dont forget to
pack your

Woodland surrounding
Loch Garten at the RSPB
Abernethy Forest National
Nature Reserve, Cairngorms APRIL/MAY 2015 | 83

ESCAPE TO Inverness-shire


Cawdor Castle

his castle is known the world over thanks 17th century onwards
to Shakespeares Macbeth, in which the by travelling Cawdors.
three witches predict that Macbeth will Theres a surprise
become Thane of Cawdor. The play waiting if you walk
was written to be performed for King James I of through the Big Wood
England/VI of Scotland, who would have been to the Auchindoune
familiar with the castle from his days growing up in Gardens that lie beside the Cawdor dower house.
Scotland. In truth, however, Cawdor is 14th century The 5th Earl, Jack Cawdor, was an explorer in the
and the real Macbeth 11th century, so never the 1920s and famed for an arduous expedition to the
twain would have met. little-known gorges of Tibet in search of rare plants.
The original castle was a tower house, four storeys He used the samples he brought back to create a
high and built to protect the Cawdor family in those replica Tibetan landscape of quiet walks, flower-
rough and ready days. Through the centuries it filled slopes and rushing water which has since been
has been added to and softened by opulent home restored from the 1980s onwards.
furnishings, paintings by the likes of The castle is open every day Cawdors flower
Sir Joshua Reynolds, and the latest from the beginning of May to the garden is French
(for their time) kitchen equipment, Top: Cawdor comes beginning of October. The Tibetan

influenced and is not

to reflect 18th and 19th-century with fairytale appeal. Garden is open Tuesdays and
Inset: The gardens
to be missed over
good living. It is still a family home, Thursdays between May and August summer as it has been
add a burst of colour
with extensive gardens that blend to the grounds of this (other times by appointment). designed to be a riot of
ancient Scottish trees and flowers grand castle Tel: 01667 404 401; colour throughout the
with exotics brought here from the warmer months

84 | JUNE/JULY 2015


Black Isle

etween Cromarty Firth in the north and the Beauly and Moray
Firths in the south and east, there is a piece of land which is
neither particularly black nor an island; rather it is a peninsula
which links to Inverness via the Kessock Bridge and enjoys a mild
climate and rich farmland. This area of villages, pretty harbours, rolling hills,
deciduous woodland and sandy beaches is gentler than the surrounding,
more rugged Scotland with its heather moorland and pine forests.
Passing through the golf course at Fortrose leads to Chanonry Point,
one of the best places in the UK to see dolphins from the shore. As the tide
rushes through the narrow channel between this part of the Black Isle and
the Fort George promontory on the mainland, it concentrates salmon and
other fish making their way up river. This bounty of fish draws dolphins in
numbers to feed and, because the channel slopes down very quickly from
the shore to great depth, its possible for them to come in very close. Those
visiting the area are able to stand on the shingle at Chanonry Point and
watch dolphins breaking the surface of the sea only
15m (50ft) away. It can be a very windy spot, though,
so it is a good idea to wrap up warm for a prolonged Right: Scottish
spell of dolphin-watching. salmon is a delicacy that even playful
dolphins cant resist


Culloden Battlefield
he battle fought on Culloden the carrying of weapons were banned.
moor on 16 April 1746 altered Many dispossessed Scottish families
the course of British, and emigrated across the Atlantic.
particularly Scottish, history. The amazing visitor centre at the
The last set-piece battle to be staged site of Culloden tells the whole story,
on British soil, it was comprehensively from the lead-up to the battle to the
lost by the Jacobite supporters of the aftermath, in vivid interactive exhibits
Bonnie Prince, Charles Edward Stuart, and Living History tableaux. The sights
who had been struggling to restore and sounds of the times are so movingly
the Stuart bloodline to the throne presented that, when you emerge from
after it was given to the Hanoverian the buildings out onto the battlefield
William of Orange and his wife Mary by itself, you feel transported back to those
the Scottish and English parliaments. grim events. And even though the moor
After the battle, which lasted only one is bleak and featureless you can imagine
hour, the Prince left Britain, never to the two armies facing each other that
return, and the government set out fateful morning and see just how the
to destroy Highland Jacobites came to grief.
society in brutal fashion. The visitor centre is
Left: Step back
Clan chiefs lost their in time at this open from 1 February to
land, legal rights and atmospheric and 23 December.
property. The wearing of infamous battlefield Tel: 0844 493 2159;
tartan and the kilt, and JUNE/JULY 2015 | 85

ESCAPE TO Inverness-shire


Loch Ness
he geological fault line that runs standing by the side of the loch in the early
from Fort William in the southwest morning with a mist floating over the gently
to Inverness in the northeast is lapping waves, or in the evening as the sun

known as the Great Glen and sets and the water goes inky black, you
it splits Scotland in two. At its heart lies could believe that something mysterious
Loch Ness, 23 miles long and 230m (755ft) just might live in the depths.
deep, home of the legendary monster. The Drumnadrochit, on the northwest side of
prospect of seeing Nessie draws thousands the loch, is the tourist hub of the area, but all
of people every year to the lochs shores to around the loch there are craft workshops
stare at the vast expanse of water for the and art galleries, gardens and historic sites
merest hint of a scaly hump breaking the to enjoy. The Fiddlers pub and restaurant,
surface. Despite numerous opposite the tourist which are possibly best appreciated from a
scientific studies using information office in the boat. There are cruises, boat trips of all sorts
sonar and hydrographic Above: Loch Ness centre of Drumnadrochit, available all year round, or you could paddle
surveys, the existence of a is one of the largest offers a friendly welcome yourself in a kayak or canoe. If you prefer to
large, prehistoric creature lakes in Scotland. and an uncountable number be land-based you can walk, cycle, ride and
Inset: Will you catch
has never been conclusively of malt whiskies to sample. drive the numerous roads, footpaths and
a glimpse of the
established, and there are legendary Nessie The scenery in the area is bridleways surrounding this intriguing spot.
many doubters, but the hunt during a visit? stunning, with ancient pine;;
goes on. Certainly, if you are forests and heather moors

86 | JUNE/JULY 2015


Scottish Malt
Whisky Trail

his is billed as the only malt whisky trail in the world, and it
certainly covers one of the most famous whisky producing
areas in Scotland, Speyside. The Trail takes in eight
distilleries including Glenfiddich, Glen Livet, Strathisla and
Cardhu and the ancient Speyside cooperage where the whisky
barrels are still made in the traditional manner with time-honoured
tools. Each distillery has its own unique traditions and recipes to
discover. If youre curious to know how and why the distillation of
grain and water makes each type of uisghe beatha, water of life, so
distinctive, and how to enjoy the best of the flavour, then following
the trail at your leisure will reveal all.
If, having been on the trail, you
develop a taste for the amber liquid, Right: Theres more
you may wish to visit one of the than a wee dram in
Speyside Whisky Festivals held in the barrels at the
May and September. Glenfiddich Distillery


Grant Arms and


his historic 50-bedroom hotel in the main square of Grantown-
on-Spey was a stopping off point for Queen Victoria and Prince
Albert on their tour of the Highlands in 1860. Not surprising, as
it is a good base from which to tour the area. The modern hotel
has comfortable ensuite rooms and top-class dining. Birdsong rather than
musak greets you as you enter the reception area, and there are board
games and jigsaws in the bar to entertain visitors of all ages once back from
a day of exploring.
The hotel also runs a Birdwatching and Wildlife Club with experts on
hand to advise, as well as clubrooms and a library of wildlife books, maps
and suggested routes. The Club produces The Watcher, a monthly magazine
on the areas wildlife, and Daily Chirp bulletins on the breakfast table with
suggested wildlife activities and sightings for the day.
Guided wildlife walks can be arranged, including a dawn chorus walk in
the extensive and ancient Anagach Woods less than five minutes walk away.
Theres a high likelihood of seeing red squirrels
in the wood, especially where it borders the
Left: This historic local golf course, and you can stroll down
hotel is a great base to the River Spey in the hope of finding wild
for exploring the otters along its course.
area and its wildlife Tel: 01479 872 526; JUNE/JULY 2015 | 87

ESCAPE TO Inverness-shire


Cairngorms National Park

As Britains largest National Park, and only one of two in Scotland, Cairngorms is home
to some fantastic scenery and wildlife as well as a range of winter and water sports

he 4,528 sq km (1,748 sq miles) of the park In summer there are water sports
encompass Britains highest mountain range, available on the rivers and lochs in Right: The view from
with Cairngorm Mountain itself as the impressive the park, as well as cycling, walking, above Avielochan,
pinnacle. Here, there are 55 summits that are golf and fishing, all set in the most north of Aviemore.
Below left: Spot
over 900m (2,950ft) and hundreds of miles of trails taking amazing scenery. There are 12 ranger
golden eagles within
you through a huge variety of habitats mountain stations, paid for by a combination of the National Park.
climbs, hill walks, strolls through ancient woodlands, the private estates in and around the Below: Loch Garten
beside rivers and round lochs. In winter you can ski or area, the local authority, charitable
snowboard from the resort on Cairngorm Mountain, trusts and a community group. The
where you can also take lessons and hire all manner of rangers manage the landscape and the visitors, and
equipment. Mountain lifts and a funicular railway convey take care of the historical and natural heritage, which
you from the car park to Top Station at includes 25 per cent of the countrys most
1,097m (3,599ft). Even if you are not a skier, endangered wildlife. The visitor centre
this trip is worth the effort as the view at Loch Garten focuses on the annual
1097 (formerly known
from the panoramic 1097 restaurant is as the Ptarmigan) is migration of ospreys to breed and the
spectacular on a clear day. Even if the cloud the highest restaurant ancient woodlands offer some of the best
is down around the mountaintop, theres in Britain. Located at places to see the UKs only endemic bird,
still a chance of catching a glimpse of snowy Cairngorm Mountains the striking orange Scottish crossbill.
white ptarmigan and Arctic hares from the Top Station, 1097 Speyside Wildlife (www.speysidewildlife.
viewing terrace, and the stark white, eerily can be reached provides expert guided tours and
quiet atmosphere outside the bustle of the via another wildlife holidays in the Highlands, and
station is an experience to have before you record-breaker, the has its own hide where you can view pine
retreat indoors to indulge in a creamy hot highest funicular martens and badgers.
chocolate or two! railway in Britain!

88 | JUNE/JULY 2015

Pack your
binoculars to
spot birds of

Alladale Wilderness Reserve offers a unique opportunity to enjoy
private, luxurious accommodation in an incredible remote location
surrounded by the glen and the ancient Caledonian forest. The team
at Alladale are happy to arrange any number of activities to enjoy Wilderness Reserve
during your stay such as golf, clay pigeon shooting, shing, whisky Remote Luxury in the Scottish Highlands
distillery tours or visiting local castles and nearby historic towns for a
taste of what makes the Scottish Highlands so popular. Contact Judith
Exclusive rental, starting from 6,000 per week, for 7 double 07770 419671 for your tailor-made holiday
bedrooms which caters for upto 14 guests.
ESCAPE TO Inverness-shire



he picturesque ruins of 800-year-old Urquhart
Castle lie in a most defendable position, Above: Enjoy the
surrounded on three sides by Loch Ness and views of Loch Ness.
Inset: The castle
next to its deepest part. From here you get
ruins remain an
a real feel for the vast length of this stretch of water impressive sight
and how isolated it must have been in its heyday, but
also how imposing the castle must have been in the
Highland landscape. Throughout its history it was the it could not be used
focus of many a skirmish between rival clans, notably by rebels ever again.
the MacDonalds, Lords of the Isles. It was symbolic in the Today, visitors can
Scots struggle for independence, having been captured explore the castle

in 1296 by the English, and changed hands several times ruins and make their
until it came to be controlled by the ultimate King of way through old doorways to discover the jigsaw of
Scots, Robert the Bruce, in the early 14th century. spaces left between the ancient stonework remains.
The discovery of
Climbing the tower house, which was built in the Before you do so, its well worth spending a few a Pictish brooch
1500s when all the earlier fighting had ceased, gives minutes watching the audio-visual presentation in at Urquhart hints
good views over the entire site with the remains of the visitor centre. This tells the dramatic story of the that the castle may
its chapel, workshops and living quarters laid out castle and its place in Scottish history, and ends with also have been the
below. Sadly, the Jacobite Risings in the 17th century a surprising revelation. Also in the centre is a full-scale site of a Pictish fort
brought conflict to the castle once more and led to model of the castle as it would have been and a cafe once visited by St
its destruction. When government troops garrisoned with wonderful views over the loch. Columbus around
here were sent to a new posting they blew it up so that Tel: 01456 450551; AD 580. JUNE/JULY 2015 | 91

ESCAPE TO Inverness-shire

Everything you need to know to plan your visit to Inverness-shire

Reasonably priced packages Clansman Hotel picturesque journeys through

GETTING THERE for 4 and 7 nights are available, Brackla, Loch Ness-side the National Park from Aviemore
By car, from the west, the A82
as well as specialist wildlife From 89 per room, per night to Broomhill.
from Glasgow follows the length
stays throughout the year, Right on the side of Loch Ness, Autumn: The moors turn purple
of the Great Glen and Loch Ness
and Christmas and Hogmanay this 26-room hotel offers with the heather in late August,
to Inverness; from the east, the
specials. The on-site Bird fantastic views of the loch. but this is the time of year to
A9 leads up from Edinburgh via
Watching and Wildlife Club Meals using local produce are see the impressive red deer rut
Perth and skirts the Cairngorms
provides residents with free served in the Cobbs Restaurant and enjoy walks in the ancient
National Park. By air, the nearest
evening talks and film shows where you can watch out of the woodlands as they take on
airport is Inverness with flights
and at least two free guided windows for an appearance by myriad autumn colours. Time to
from Manchester, Birmingham,
wildlife walks a week. Nessie in the loch opposite. sit by a log fire and enjoy a dram
Bristol, Luton and Gatwick. By
Tel: 01479 872 526 Tel: 01456 450 326 of whisky, too!
train, Aviemore Station has Winter: Aviemore becomes
direct services from Glasgow,
a playground for skiers and
Inverness and Edinburgh. Eiland View Bed & Breakfast
Woodside of Culloden, Westhill, WHEN TO GO snowboarders. The square at
Grantown is closed off for the
Spring: There may still be snow
on the Cairngorms but it should
Hogmanay celebrations with
Speyside Wildlife From 35 per person per night, live music and dancing in the
including full Scottish breakfast be possible to take the funicular
Ballieward, Grantown-on-Spey streets. In the town of Burghead
This luxury 3-roomed B&B is railway to Top Station and walk
If you want to see the special on 11 January theres the ancient
only a couple of miles from the back down for the chance of
wildlife that the Highlands has custom of the Burning of the
battlefield of Culloden with its seeing ptarmigan and Arctic
to offer red deer, black grouse, Clavie where a peat and wood
atmospheric visitor centre, and hares. From mid-March osprey
pine martens, otters, capercaillie, filled herring barrel is set alight
15 minutes drive from Inverness return to nest at Loch Garten.
red squirrels, bottlenose and paraded through the streets
Airport. The comfortable Summer: Although the midges
dolphins and minke whales, for good luck in the coming year.
modern house has panoramic can be a nuisance and there are
among many other species
views over the Moray Firth. more tourists, Loch Ness looks
you can join one of Speysides
Tel: 01463 798 900 stunning in the sunshine. The INFORMATION
organised days out or hire Speyside Steam Railway offers
one of their expert guides for
a tailor-made package. Group
sizes are small and transport is
provided. Speyside has access
to some areas not open to the
general public and they know
where you can hope to find
even the shyest of creatures, Black Isle
so although wildlife watching
is often a matter of luck, their Inverness Castle
professionals can give you the
best possible chance. Castle
Tel: 01479 812 498
e ss
Lo c

The Grant Arms
From 70 per person per night,
dinner, bed & breakfast
On the town square, the hotel N
has 50 ensuite bedrooms.

92 | JUNE/JULY 2015


Win a two-night stay at The Grant Arms Hotel in the Scottish

Highlands, an ideal base for exploring surrounding towns and countryside

BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Grant Arms Hotel

he Grant Arms Hotel is in the perfect position for a
leisurely break in Speyside, with the snow-capped Competition, Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham,
Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
Cairngorm mountain range on the doorstep and historic
Inverness and environs close by. ONLINE: Visit and click on Competitions & Offers
At any time of year, the area around Grantown-on-Spey offers to enter the competition online.
fascinating attractions to the visitor. From skiing and fishing to TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 31 August 2015. Prize to be taken
visiting the sites of some of the most famous events in history, a between 1 October 2015 and 31 March 2016, excluding Christmas, New Year, Easter and special
events. Subject to availability. Transport is not provided. Prize non transferable. No cash
weekend in this part of the world will be a breath of fresh air. alternative. Employees (and relatives) of The Chelsea Magazine Company are not eligible to
The cosy Grant Arms with its top-class cuisine, comfortable enter. Winners names may be published. By entering this competition you agree and
ensuite bedrooms and extensive menu of single malt whiskies will acknowledge that The Chelsea Magazine Company is permitted to receive your registration data.
extend a warm welcome to the winners of this two-night break.

The on-site Bird Watching and Wildlife Club can provide
guidance on the best places to see red squirrels, pine martens, HOW TO ENTER
dolphins, red deer and a multitude of interesting birds, as well as In which year did Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stay at
talks and organised walks with experts. The Grant Arms Hotel on their tour of the Highlands? 
The friendly hotel staff can also help with advice on historic
A 1850 B 1860 C 1870
sites to visit, beautiful countryside to explore and local crafts to
enjoy. Throughout the centuries, this part of Scotland has NAME .................................................................................................................
produced some of the most famous names in history, as well as ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
iconic brands such as Walkers shortbread and Glenfiddich whisky:
heres your chance to discover their origins for yourself. ............................................................................................................................
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Enjoy a two-night stay, including dinner, bed and breakfast, for
two people sharing a double or twin room at The Grant Arms. I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information

Established 1980

Quality rental apartments and cottages in

London, Edinburgh and many UK cities.
Available from 3 nights to 3 months
and more.
From studios for 1 or 2 to 4 bedroom
apartments for 8.
Single room from 42 - 55 58 - 72 FAST PERSONAL SERVICE
Twin/Double room from 34 - 41 44 - 65
Contact Mary and Simon Ette
Family room (3 or 4) from 28 - 40 38 - 48 Tel: 01392 860807 E:


Discover Your Ancestors
Let our professional genealogists
trace your family history nationally
and internationally.
Money back guarantee!

For the best,

most economical
services write to:
11 Crosbie Road, Harborne,
Birmingham, B17 9BG.

0121 2464260 (DB)

To advertise in
Discover Britain
please call Dan Martin
on 01242 264781
or email


Country Lane To urs

Wide range of vehicles available for personal Est 1994
for tours in Wales
meet & greet service at Heathrow or Gatwick airport and
11 branches throughout the South East. Escorted vacations in beautiful, unspoilt countryside
for independent travellers, families and small groups.
Dates for our ever popular Village Life in Wales
& Land of my Fathers tours are on our website
along with other itineraries and information.

Tel: 0044 (0)1248 352402 |

Book online at | Call: +44 1483 574434 Country Lane Tours, Y Bwthyn, Waen Wen, Snowdonia, Wales LL57 4UF

To advertise contact Dan Martin: 01242 264781 |

Calls from North America: dial the country code 01144 and drop the rst 0 in the UK number

Why not spend a magical day in one of Britains truly gorgeous Gardens? Look
over our chosen selection of Gardens to Visit for something special this Spring


A must for any garden lover, with eight acres of classical Italianate gardens - created by
Sir George Sitwell, great-grandfather of current owner Alexandra. Seasonal highlights
include bluebells, delphiniums, camellias, roses and stunning white garden. Opening
times, Wed to Sun and Bank Holiday Mon, 10.30am-4.30pm until 27th Sept 2015.
Please see our website for admissions and details of special entry for RHS and HHA
members with valid card. Public hall tours on Fri at 1pm and 2.30pm, booking advised.
Group tours of the hall throughout the year by appointment. Tel: +44 (0) 1246 432310
Email: Website:


Rousham represents the rst phase of English landscape design, and remains
Photo credit Harpur Garden Images

almost as William Kent left it, one of the few gardens of this date to have escaped
alteration, with many features which delighted 18th century visitors to Rousham
still in situ, such as the ponds and cascades in Venuss Vale, the Cold Bath and
seven-arched Praeneste, Townsends Building, the Temple of the Mill, and, on
the skyline, a sham ruin known as the Eyecatcher. OPEN: Daily from 10am, last
admission 4.30pm.
Tel: +44 (0) 869 347110 Website:


Visit our inspiring garden, 20 acres of beautiful walks & lakes with plant nursery
for quality & hardy plants. Group visits and talks are available, please contact us
for further information. Limited wheelchair access. Dogs on leads welcome. Easter
Week Special: Fri 3rd April - Sun 12th April. Open: Tues to Sun and Bank Holidays
10am - 4pm. Admission: 7.50 (Children under 12 FREE). Refreshments available
from our tearoom. Nursery & mail order plant sales available all year.


A recent winner of the HHA/Christies Garden of the Year Award, and described by
Alan Titchmarsh as One of the nest gardens I have ever visited. Abbotsbury is
celebrating its 250th anniversary during 2015, with new features including a Burma
Photo credit Julien Lightfoot

Rope Bridge, lots of special events and more fabulous plants. 2015 is denitely
the year to visit Abbotsbury. Open every day except 19th Dec to 1st Jan inclusive,
10.00am to 5.00pm or 4.00pm in winter.

Tel: +44 (0) 1305 871130 Email:


Exbury is world-renowned for its truly dazzling spring colour. April is the time to
enjoy one of the countrys nest collections of rhododendrons. With a myriad of
pathways to explore, breathtaking views at every turn, a Steam Railway, licensed
Tea Rooms and free parking, the enchanting 200 acre woodland garden is a
must-stop destination for visitors to the New Forest. Open: 14 March to 8 November,
10am to 4.30pm last admission. Adults 12.10*, Children 2.75*, Family 25.85*
including voluntary donation. Exbury, Southampton, Hampshire, SO45 1AZ.
Tel: +44 (0) 2380 81203 Email: Website:
Challenge your knowledge of Britains history, legends and people with our puzzle page

1 19th-century prime minister,
a favourite of Queen Victoria (8)
2 Surname of neo-Classical
architect brothers Robert
and James (4)
3 Sea bird with a colourful
beak (6)
4 Poet born in 1792 in Field Place
near Horsham in Sussex (7)
5 County renowned for the
production of cider (8)
6 Renowned Field Marshal in the
Second World War (10)
7 Tributary of the Thames
flowing through Marlborough,
Hungerford and Newbury (6)
13 The largest freshwater Scottish
lake (4,6)
16 Essex airport serving
London (8)
18 Lost kingdom of Arthurian
legend (8)
19 Formerly, the chief executive
officer of the Crown in a
county (7)
21 Blair , Perthshire tourist
centre at the junction of the Tilt
and Garry rivers (6)
22 Worcestershire village with a
14th-century barn preserved by
ACROSS Think you the National Trust (6)
8 Tributary of the Thames that have all the 24 Lancashire river (below) flows
flows through the Cotswolds (8) answers? into the Irish Sea at Fleetwood (4)
9 Fresh bracing sea air (5) Well reveal the
10 __ Stoker, author of solutions to
Dracula (4) this crossword
11 Port and resort on the in issue 189
southeast coast of Kent (10) (December
12 Camelot magician (6) 2015/January
14 Lord __, fictional character 22 Enid __, popular childrens 2016), on
in the Blandings stories by author (see above) (6) sale from 18
PG Wodehouse (8) 23 Composer of Rule, November
15 Ecclesiastical area ruled by Britannia (6,4)
a bishop (7) 24 Architect of St Pauls
17 One of Shakespeares plays (7) Cathedral in London (4)
20 Landscape painter who was 25 Jousting weapon (5)
an official war artist in both 26 Fanfare played by brass
World Wars (4,4) instruments (8)

Solution to crossword in issue 183 (December 2014/January 2015):

Across: 1 Walton, 4 Cherwell, 10 Stage door, 11 Besom, 12 Bude, 13 Ilfracombe, 15 Red kite, 16 Wesley, 19 Joshua, 21 St Leger,
23 Elterwater, 25 Tees, 27 Earls, 28 Orchestra, 29 Skegness, 30 Bronze Down: 1 Westbury, 2 Llandudno, 3 Odes, 5 Hardraw, 6 Raby
Castle, 7 Epsom, 8 Limpet, 9 Collie, 14 Richardson, 17 Eggleston, 18 Dressage, 20 Amazons, 21 Spence, 22 Levens, 24 Tiree, 26 Wear

Great British Adventurers

Sky-high ambitions
Pilot Amy Johnson was the first female to fly solo from Britain to Australia

he daring feats of aviation performed by
20th-century pilot Amy Johnson were
unparalleled for the era. Taking to the skies
from an early age, the Hull-born heroine
made her record-setting journey to Australia in her de
Havilland Moth biplane when just 26 years old.
Having graduated from Sheffield University with an
Economics degree in 1925, Johnson could have so easily
joined the ranks of office workers, but her obsession with
aviation was too strong to see her cooped up for long.
Moving to London for work as a shorthand typist, she
soon became disenchanted with her role and joined the
newly established de Havilland Aeronautical Technical
School at Edgware to sign up for flying lessons. The
demands of the course led to an ultimatum: it was either
the office or flying. It was not a hard decision.
Soon enough, in 1929, Johnson earned her pilots
licence and a few months later, having also learned about
aircraft mechanics, received her licence as a ground
engineer, the first of its kind awarded to a woman.
De Havilland saw an opportunity to forge their young
apprentice into a star, readying her for a much publicised
venture to beat the 15-day light aircraft solo flight
record from Britain to Australia, set by the Australian,
Bert Hinkler, in 1928.
On 5 May 1930, Johnson departed Croydon airfield
for Darwin, Australia, but was hampered on her journey
by bad weather and fuel shortages. Despite arriving four
days later than Hinklers time, her celebrity status was
cemented; she was met with rapturous applause and
appointed a Commander of the British Empire, as the Above: British aviator, of any act of outstanding bravery by
first solo female pilot to complete the route. Amy Johnson. a child born in Hull. She also wrote a
Below: Johnson in front
This epic flight would remain her most famous, but for of her Gipsy Moth just
book about her career, Sky Roads of
the rest of her career the world was glued to stories of her before she undertook a the World, and was appointed national
every move, as she made ever more daring attempts to 19-day flight to Australia leader of the Womens Air Reserve.
With the outbreak of the Second
break records and push boundaries. World War in 1939, Amy joined the
Her personal life was more of a Air Transport Auxiliary, to assist the
challenge. After six years of marriage RAF efforts. The details surrounding
to her pilot husband, James Mollison, her tragic death, in January 1941, are
she divorced him, in 1938, on grounds unclear but it appears that she was
of his adultery and heavy drinking, but either mistakenly shot down or lost
it hadnt all been disastrous. Together, control over the Thames estuary on a
they had achieved a record as the first routine flight. Nevertheless, her legacy
husband and wife team to cross the as a courageous pilot has ensured her
Atlantic from east to west, and pushed place in the history books. Q
each other to greater success. Amy Johnson memorabilia can be
Johnson continued to achieve, on seen at Sewerby Hall in Yorkshire.
land and in the air. Her stardom had

brought many opportunities, including Her de Havilland Gipsy Moth is on

the Amy Johnson Cup for Courage display at the Science Museum.
awards (held to this day) in recognition

98 | JUNE/JULY 2015


Relax in the warm, mineral-rich waters of Baths natural thermal Spa.

Bathe in the open-air rooftop pool and indoor Minerva Bath, refresh your
senses in the aroma steam rooms and choose from over 40 spa treatments.

Open daily from 09.00 21.30

To watch our Spa (pools & steam rooms close at 21.00)
video, please scan
the QR code or
visit our website 0844 888 0844

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