Footwear Testing at LASRA

The New Zealand Leather & Shoe Research Association

Incorporated (LASRA)

This handbook has been complied to assist footwear manufacturers,

importers, suppliers and retailers, with information essential to
understanding the key test methods and their specifications that are
required to be meet in compliance with international performance
standards.
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Leather Footwear Testing at LASRA

New Zealand Leather & Shoe Research Association Inc. (LASRA)

Compiled and written by

Mr Nathan Rosandich

Mr Peter Roy

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About LASRA
LASRA is the New Zealand Leather & Shoe Research Association Inc. and is a not-for-profit,
industry-good, incorporated society established in 1928 to do scientific research and provide
independent, accredited testing services for its Ordinary Members (skin and hide processors,
fellmongers and tanners). LASRAs services are also available to its Ancillary Members (leather
product manufacturing and supporting industries, including suppliers, wholesalers, and retailers of
leather goods). Membership fees assist in maintaining your organisation LASRA.
LASRA exists purely to serve Members needs.
We hold international accreditation for many tests though IANZ (International Accreditation NZ)
and all tests are conducted against ISO 17025.

Performance Specification Testing

The testing of footwear not only serves as a check that the it has been manufactured to an
acceptable performance standard, but also gives the supplier, the retailer and the customer peace
of mind that there is a level of quality assurance in place.
At LASRA, we use a range of internationally accepted Standard test methods for testing
footwear.
These Standards specify the following two things:

A. Test methods from ISO (International Standards Organisation)

B. The test specifications from ISO of the performance levels required for the pass/fail criteria
of footwear (these will appear on your LASRALaboratory Report).

Footwear Specification Standards

At LASRA, we use a range of internationally accepted Standards for testing footwear. Each of
these internationally accepted specification standard has a specific set of testing aimed at creating
an international standard for that product. Be it childrens, infants, sports, fashion, special purpose
(fire, heat, cold, etc), police, military, safety/occupational, outdoor.

Protective Safety Footwear

AS/NZS 2210, EN ISO 20345, ASTM F 2413, CSA Z41, MS ISO 20345, SS 513

Fire-fighter Footwear
AS/NZS 4821, EN 15090

Chainsaw Protective Footwear

AS/NZS 4453, EN 381, ISO 11393

Chemical Protective Footwear

EN 13832

Casual/sports/school Footwear
ISO/TR 20572, ISO/TR 20573, ISO/TR 20879, ISO/TR 20880
ISO/TR 20881, ISO/TR 20882, ISO/TR 20883, ISO/TR 20648

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Personal Protective Equipment - Footwear

The standard applicable to safety footwear is ISO 20345, which is an adoption of EN 20345.
AS/NZS 2210 then adopts and adds to ISO 20345.

In these standards critical features of the performance of all materials used in the footwear are
tested. In these tests material durability requirements and minimum strength requirements must
be met to ensure a product made of these materials can deliver reasonable wear performance,
and give basic protection from external harm, whilst promoting foot health and a degree of comfort
for wearers during their work. This was in line with the legislation from Europe that all PPE must
be ergonomic, must protect, and must be innocuous, because the EN standard was the basis of
AS/NZS 2210.

The AS/NZS 2210 standards have tests for the critical safety performance of the protective
elements of the safety footwear including the safety toecap, any under-foot penetration protection,
electrical resistance, chemical protection, heat, and cold resistance, and cut resistance. The main
safety protective tests are mandatory for all footwear (described as basic requirements) and these
can be described as follows:

Impact resistance:
Safety boots are fitted with a protective toecap which is capable of withstanding a 200 Joule
impact. This is a 20kg mass dropped from a height of 1 meter on to the area just above the big
toe. A striker tip similar to a blunt axe is fitted to the bottom of the falling mass and strikes in the
toe to heel direction. This test has similarity to a load a person could carry being dropped onto the
toe from chest high. It was originally considered that the toes are impacted because the
gravitational speed of travel of the mass allows the foot to be moved, but often, not in enough time
to clear the toes from the impact zone. All safety boots must pass this test.
The standards require minimum clearances inside the toecap at the moment of maximum
depression of the toecap.

Compression resistance:
The toe section of a boot is fitted between two compression plates and a vertical load of 15,000
Newtons, a load roughly the equal of 1.5 tonne is loaded on to the top of a toecap. It is not certain
why this load was selected, but anecdotally we might think this test could be similar to a car or
light vehicle lowered over the toe when a car jack is released. All safety boots must pass this test.
The standards require minimum clearances inside the toecap at the moment of maximum
depression of the toecap.

Specific Ergonomic Features:

In this test a brief wear trial assesses the boot to make sure in can be worn without discomfort or
interference in walking, stair-climbing, or crouching. All footwear must pass this test. It is
considered by the original standards committee in Europe (where the source document was
written) that all PPE must be wearable and ergonomically satisfactory as described in the test
method.

Slip Resistance:
In this test two surfaces are used as representing commonly encountered risk areas. These are a
ceramic tile wet with detergent and water, the other is a stainless steel plate wet with glycerol.
Footwear is tested in flat contact, and with the toe raised to a 7 degree angle to simulate heel
strike.

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Other safety features (described as additional requirements), may be included.
These are as follows:

Metatarsal impact:
This is a 100 Joule impact test only. In this test a 20kg mass falls through half of a meter onto a
pre-determined point above the metatarsal bones of the foot. This is roughly equal to 20kg
dropped from knee high. This is an optional test, not all boots are fitted with a metatarsal
protector. When such a device is fitted, it must be integral and non removable. The standards
require minimum clearances inside the boot or shoe at the moment of maximum depression.

Penetration resistance:
Some boots are fitted with a penetration resistant insole or midsole. A standard steel nail is slowly
driven up into the sole till the nail penetrates into the foot space. A minimum load of 1,100
Newtons is required before the nail penetrates. 1,100 Newtons is roughly equal to 110 kg and
this test may simulate a 110kg human walking on an up-turned nail point. This test is optional.
When a penetration resistant insole or midsole device is fitted, it must be integral and non
removable.

Electrical Resistance:
There are three ways footwear can be considered electrically resistant

Conductive:
This footwear has low electrical resistance to a 100 Volt D.C. charge and is designed to remove
static electricity from the body very easily, but has very little protection from an electric shock.

Antistatic:
This footwear can remove static electricity, but it still has limited protection to electric shock under
a 100 Volt D.C. charge.

Electrically insulating:
This footwear is designed to give some protection from voltages below 5,000 or 10,000 volts.

Cut resistance:
In this test a small rotating blade under low load of about 500g is stroked over the boot upper to
assess resistance to accidental exposure to a sharp edge or knife blade. This test is also known
as the blade or glove cut test and was originally designed for butchers and the like.

Energy Absorption of the seat region:

In this test a model of a foot heel is forced down on the heel area of the inside of a shoe to
simulate wear and the energy absorbed is measured. This is to ensure repeated heel impact
energy is absorbed during wear.

Water resistance:
This test uses techniques to ensure that only a small amount of water is allowed to enter the
footwear over a brief period of exposure to water. Note this means water resistance, and the
footwear may not be water proof.
(Waterproof footwear remains as provided by traditional gumboot type footwear.)

Resistance to hot contact of soles:

In this test a block of metal (about one inch square) heated to 300 C is placed on a sample of the
sole for one minute. The sole should not crack when bent around a standard mandrel or burn after
this test.

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Resistance to Inimical Environments (heat or cold)
Heat insulation is done by resting a boot on a hot plate at 150 C and measuring the foot surface
temperature inside the footwear. The temperature increase should not exceed 22 C in the test,
and the footwear should remain functional.
Cold insulation is done by resting a boot in a cold freezer at -17 C and measuring the foot surface
temperature inside the footwear. The decrease in temperature should be not more than 15 C
after 30 minutes.

Footwear is made in two classifications

Classification I footwear is described as Footwear made from leather or other materials, excluding
all-rubber or all-polymer footwear
Classification II footwear is described as all rubber or all polymer footwear.

AS/NZS 2210.1 is a set of advice on purchase, care, and maintenance of footwear.

EN ISO 20344 and AS/NZS 2210.2 are the set of test methods and requirements for footwear. EN
ISO 20345 and AS/NZS 2210.3 are for Safety footwear; this is for footwear with a 200 Joule
toecap. EN ISO 20346 and AS/NZS 2210.4 are for Protective footwear; this is for footwear with a
100 Joule toecap. EN ISO 20347 and AS/NZS 2210.5 are for Professional footwear; this is for
footwear with no toecap.

Safety, Protective, and Professional footwear are the three levels of protection covered by the
standards. These three kinds of footwear are intended for general industry, very light industry, and
office type uses respectively, although it should be remembered these are not official descriptions,
but interpretive perspective on intended use of footwear. All kinds of toecaps and midsole
materials used in EN ISO 20345 and AS/NZS 2210 must meet EN 12568 performance levels.

EN ISO 20345 and AS/NZS 2210 also requires threads and labelling to meet certain test
requirements, and it has processes in place that require some proof of verification of on-going
compliance with all sections of the standard. No other standards have that feature.

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Protective Footwear for Firefighters

AS/NZS 4821 and EN 15090 specifies test methods and minimum performance requirements for
three types of footwear for firefighters. These standards adopt and add requirements to EN ISO
20345 and AS/NZS 2210. The major requirements added for all types of footwear in AS/NZS
4821, or EN 15090 is the heat tests. That is, flame resistance, contact heat, radiant heat and heat
resistance tests.

Flame resistance:
A flame is applied to the sole and upper joint area for a specified time and then inspected for
continued flaming, glow and damage and functionality.

Contact Heat:
A complete sample of footwear is immersed in a sand bath set at 250 5 C aver a period of time
the temperature inside the sample is taken and inspected for any damage and functionality.

Radiant Heat:
A test sample is taken from the upper and exposed to a heat flux density of 20 kW/m for 3 min
and inspected for damage and functionality after.

Heat Resistance:
A complete sample of footwear is suspended in a hot air circulating oven at 120C for 4 hours it is
then inspected for damage and functionality

Chainsaw/Chemical Protective Footwear

Working or dealing with hazardous substances requires the use of specially-designed protective
equipment. If you are developing footwear for protection against chemicals we can test the
footwear against the international standard EN 13832. This standard specifies methods for
determination of degradation, permeation and penetration resistance of footwear by chemicals.
This standard is used in conjunction with EN ISO 20345 or AS/NZS 2210 to fully test footwear to
meet international standards. The level of protection against chemicals provided by footwear will
not only depend on construction of footwear, but also the choice of materials. We can help with
design, materials and testing in creating the required level of chemical protective footwear.

Chainsaw are used in a range of applications from forestry and agricultural workers to DIY
enthusiasts. If you are developing footwear for protection against chainsaw cutting we can test the
footwear against international standards BS EN ISO 17249, EN 381, ISO 11393 and AS/NZS
4453. These standards specify specific requirements and methods for determining the resistance
of footwear to chainsaw cutting. This standard is also used in conjunction with EN ISO 20345 or
AS/NZS 2210 to fully test footwear to meet international standards.

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School/Casual/Sports/Childrens Shoes
Using the ISO/TR standards we can create a testing program that will meet the exact needs of a
footwear line, be it Casual, School, Childrens or Sports shoes. The ISO/TR standards are a list of
requirements for a specific component of the whole footwear. Each standard has a level of
requirements based upon the purpose of that shoe.

ISO/TR 20572 Performance requirements for footwear - Accessories

ISO/TR 20573 Performance requirements for footwear - Heels and top pieces
ISO/TR 20879 Performance requirements for footwear - Uppers
ISO/TR 20880 Performance requirements for footwear - Outsoles
ISO/TR 20881 Performance requirements for footwear - Insoles
ISO/TR 20882 Performance requirements for footwear - Lining
ISO/TR 20883 Performance requirements for footwear - Shanks
ISO/TR 20648 Performance requirements for footwear - Stiffeners and toepuffs

From these standards we can create an appropriate testing program for a footwear sample. Such
as a school shoe that would need to have the soles, uppers, lining, laces and insoles tested.

Fashion
LASRA can provide everything from concept to completion; we can help and be involved in all
stages of the process towards making your shoe a reality. We can help with the design and build
of draft. We can link you with designers and manufacturers to get the process started. Once the
product has been designed and made we can then set up a testing program to ensure your
product is up to international standards.
The testing program would include elements of the above ISO/TR standard for footwear. On top of
these standards we can offer other testing that maybe of use such as impact strength and fatigue
resistance of heels.

Material Identification
The ICT Leather Definition or Confirmation of Leather test can be preformed by LASRA in
accordance with the International Council of Tanners (ICT) definition of leather. Not only can this
test confirm your product are genuine leather, but also confirmation of what species (animal of
origin). Compliance with the ICT leather definition requires both microscope examination and
thickness measurements of the leather itself and of the finish layers or surface coatings.

Materials capability
Our materials expertise is not limited to leather. We have extensive capabilities in
Polymers/plastics, Rubbers, Fabrics (knitted, woven and non-woven) Boards (fibre, non-woven),
Metals and Non-metals.

We have been responsible for providing technical development and research into novel and
important new materials and products now in widespread use throughout the global products
industry.

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Compounds of concern in footwear

Peoples feet are in contact with their footwear for long periods of time most days. This contact
between the footwear and the foot provides a mechanism for chemicals to be dermally absorbed
into the body. To avoid the dermal absorption of potentially toxic chemicals into the body
responsible suppliers and retailers need to ensure their products do not contain these potentially
hazardous chemicals.
In many countries the use of these, toxic, compounds of concern in footwear are either heavily
restricted or banned. LASRA provide testing for the following compounds of concern that are
applicable to the footwear industry.

Compounds of concern:
Aromatic amines
Chromium VI
Dimethylfumarate
Formaldehyde
Heavy metals
pH
Phthalates

Aromatic amines:
Azo dyes that degrade to form carcinogenic or potentially carcinogenic, aromatic amines are
potentially found in dyed components such as leather and textiles.

Chromium VI:
Chromium VI can potentially be found in chromium tanned leather under certain chemical
conditions. Chromium VI content is commonly restricted due to skin sensitizing and potentially
carcinogenic attributes.

Dimethylfumarate:
Dimethylfumarate (DMFU) is an anti-mould agent potentially used in transit. Dimethyl fumarate
content is commonly restricted in legislation due to strong skin sensitising attributes.

Formaldehyde:
Formaldehyde can potentially be found in most footwear components. Formaldehyde content is
commonly restricted in legislation due to toxicity.

Heavy metals:
The heavy metals; Antimony (Sb), Arsenic (As), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr), Cobalt
(Co), Copper (Cu), Nickel (Ni), Mercury (Hg), and Zinc (Zn) can be potentially found in most
footwear components. These heavy metals are commonly restricted in legislation due to their
respective toxicity.

Phthalates:
Phthalates have been commonly used as plasticisers in synthetic materials. The use of seven
phthalates has been restricted in legislation due to being in suspicion as endocrine disruptors.

pH:
An excessively high or low pH of materials in contact with the skin will cause skin sensitivity.

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Use of the LASRA brand in advertisements

Use of LASRA Test Results and our name in Advertising

Members are more than welcome to enquire about this, we are happy allow you use LASRA
technical reports to display performance, but note that reports may only be reproduced in full.
We are happy for you to announce you use LASRA services, or hold membership of LASRA..

How you can use LASRA Technical Reports

When LASRA performs a set of tests and supplies you with a report, that report becomes your
property.
Any report can be shown to anyone you see fit.
A report may be reproduced, but only in full, we accept you might copy your report.
You may even want to distribute it.
We advise you to ensure the data is current and reflects on-going quality.

Use of the LASRA name in advertising

Members as clients are more than welcome to announce and advertise LASRA membership.

Advertising that claims LASRA to have assessed a product

This can be done in consultation with LASRA.

A testing and QA program to assure on-going compliance with a standard, and which is mutually
agreed can be the basis for a memorandum of understanding. This would state the terms under
which our name can be used in advertising.
Specific claims about testing to be used in advertising copy need to be checked and discussed
with us. LASRAs main concern is that advertisements should not be misleading. We would be
concerned about LASRAs clients running the risk of falling foul of consumer legislation if claims
are indeed found to be misleading.
LASRA would review and approve all copy, and a disclaimer for clarity like the one following might
be requested by LASRA.

Disclaimer: LASRA verifies that one piece of material/product from the production and
colour range (specified), and claimed to be used in the manufacture of this product, has
passed all test specifications (list or reference the tests) in its IANZ accredited laboratory.

Feel free to talk to LASRA about how we can help with getting the word out there.

Certification/accreditation

This is an area we have not looked in to for products and services. This would need to be done
against a recognised or agreed QA standard. Manufacture of some safety equipment is monitored
by a recognised third party certification scheme, and regularly audited to ensure ongoing
compliance. This kind of certification might make the case for use or the LASRA brand in
advertising much easier. How we can fit in with this would be examined on a case by case basis.

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How to Begin the Testing

Ancillary Membership
You may wish to consider becoming an Ancillary Memberof LASRA. Ancillary Members can
make significant cost savings over a period of time.Please enquire about membership details and
benefits and we will send you further information. Annual 2012 membership cost is $825 + GST
from 1 January, 2012.LASRA Rules require that you remain a member for a minimum of three
years.

IANZ is your assurance that LASRA provides reliable results

IANZ is the international accreditation organisation of New Zealand for testing laboratories
established as a crown entity under the Testing Laboratory Regulation Act, 1972. All of LASRAs
tests performed under the specification Standard, EN 13336:2004are IANZ accredited. LASRA is
assessed annually by IANZ staffand specialist experts to ensure the competence of the
organisation and its staff against defined technical and management systems. On passing this
external audit, LASRA is accredited as complying with the internationalStandard, ISO/IEC 17025.
LASRA is also issued with a Certificate of Accreditation for its accredited tests and these are
listed in a schedule in a directory published on the IANZ website at http://ianz.govt.nz.

IANZ accredited results reported on LASRAs laboratory reports are recognised around the globe
through an international network of 64 non-commercial accreditation authorities located in 49
economies including by all major European, Asian and American stakeholders and nations in ITO
and the WTO. IANZ, itself is peer reviewed under theinternational standard ISO/IEC
17011:2004.An international network of so called Mutual Recognition Arrangements (MRA)
means that all partners recognise each others accreditations as equivalent to their own.IANZ also
represents New Zealand on the International Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation (ILAC), which
links nationally recognised accreditation authorities worldwide.

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Submitting samples to LASRA
Please ensure that your samples of leathers are:
Clearly labelled with the identification information that you wish to have on your laboratory
report
Each leather sample is individually wrapped in brown or unprinted paper.
Place the footwear samples in a cardboard box or securepackage and courier to:

Attn: Mr Peter Roy

New Zealand Leather & Shoe Research Association Inc. (LASRA)
Fitzherbert Science Centres
69 Dairy Farm Road
PALMERSTON NORTH
New Zealand

Payment Details
Our terms of trade are that after the work is completed you will be sent an invoice by email for the
price of the work plus GST. Ancillary Member test-house fees are based on 2011 rates of NZ$109
per hour plus GST and represent a considerable saving on non-member rates of $169 per hour
plus GST. LASRA requires payment by the twentieth day of the month following the invoice date.
Our banking details for your payment are as follows:

Please use the following details for paying by direct payment (direct credit):

Bank: Bank of New Zealand (BNZ), Corner of The Square and Rangitikei Street, Palmerston
North, New Zealand
Account No. 020630-0113288-00
Account Name: New Zealand Leather & Shoe Research Association Inc.
Bank Swift Address: BKNZNZ22

Contacts
Mr Peter Roy, Senior Technical Officer(Mechanical)
Email: Peter.roy@lasra.co.nz

General enquires:
Phone: 0064-6-355-9028
Fax: 0064-6-354 1185
Email: info@lasra.co.nz

Postal address:
New Zealand Leather & Shoe Research Association Inc. (LASRA)
P. O. Box 8094, Hokowhitu, 4446, Palmerston North, New Zealand

Location:
Fitzherbert Science Centre, Dairy Farm Road, Palmerston North, New Zealand
www.lasra.co.nz

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