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Monica Mohler

Teresa Hamilton, Section 4 12:20-1:10

Paradigm Shift paper

18 Nov. 2016

The Makeup Movement

The perfect, winged eyeliner. This seemingly unattainable upward stroke of black magic,

or black liquid, marks the steady hand of a makeup artist. I use the term makeup artists loosely of

course, not everyone who excels at makeup went to cosmetology school. In fact, young adults

and teens use makeup as a form of self-expression and artistry unlike ever before. The paradigm

shift of makeup has changed the face and function of makeup and its force in todays society.

Makeup has undergone a complete transformation, from solely a tool for establishing status,

beautification, and fitting beauty standards into a way to express oneself and create art . The

beginning of cosmetics formed from to produce a very different end goal than that of today.

Makeup has transformed greatly since its inception. "A woman without paint is like food

without salt, says Roman philosopher Plautus. Makeups ancient history dates back to around

10,000 BC in a time where it was used in religious ceremonies or more commonly to enhance

beauty. Cosmetics originated with the egyptians, and threads itself through most cultural

backgrounds. Eyeshadow, which is now commonly made of talc and colorants, formed from the

burning of almonds or the oxidizing of copper ("A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Time.").

Ancient people beautified through changing the color and definition of their faces with ore and
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malachite. In addition to the beautification process, makeup displayed a hierarchy of social

statuses.

Later in time, around 3000 BC, Chinese women stained their fingernails with beeswax or

eggs in order to show high social class standing. In fact, higher classes forbade those in lower

classes from adorning their fingernails with bright colors ("A History of Cosmetics from Ancient

Time"). Thousands of miles away, Grecian women crushed mulberries as blush. In each of these

cultures, makeup was a status symbol and a way to display wealth and power. On the other hand,

in todays society, makeup represents every woman.

Makeup served as a commonplace within cultures as a sign of power until the creation of

drugstore makeup. Now we find makeup at cheap prices within every CVS, Target, and Rite

Aid. Most women do not travel in public without at least foundation or mascara on, and

drugstores supplement these basic needs with inexpensive cosmetics. When looking at a woman

in the twenty-first century wearing makeup, you do not conceive that she must be rich and of

high status. While high-end and expensive makeup still exists within brands such as MAC and

Bobbi Brown, cosmetics are mass produced to lower prices. Makeup is so common now that we

basically assume girls wear it daily, and cosmetics have transformed over time, due to their

accessibility, to not represent status. Makeup was a commonplace within cultures as a sign of

power when these high class women used it not only as a symbol of status but to beautify and

improve upon their outward appearance, especially when it came to paling complexions.

Throughout history up until the shift in cosmetics, makeup has been a device used to pale

complexions. Greeks crushed chalk or lead to create face powder in 1000 BC. Later, in 100 AD,
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Roman women obtained barley flour and butter to cover up pimples. Then in the Middle ages

and Renaissance, women used egg whites or white leads to lighten their skin tone. Throughout

these periods, cosmetics remained a symbol of status, and only the most wealthy could afford

makeup. It would not be until the 19th century that zinc oxide would replace toxic lead in skin

treatment. Women desired to appear as young as possible during the 1900s, and achieved this

with makeup ("A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Time."). This history of cosmetics proves

the number the alterations of makeup throughout time, despite the themes in each culture. The

euro-centric desire to have lighter skin influenced the use of makeup. Similarly, having lighter

skin distinguished you as not having to work outdoors, and therefore you were not common folk.

On the other hand, makeup today has transformed into more than just a device for paler

complexions.

In todays society, makeup is used as much to add color as it is to detract. In some

cultures, makeup is still used to lighten skin. This stems from deep racial issues in which it was

believed that white skin is better. But although some women still use it for this reason, most use

it to enhance the skin they have. They highlight and contour to make their faces into works of

art. They balance their skin and brighten it instead of altering its color. In fact, if young adults

use makeup to impact the color of their skin it is often times to make themselves appear tanner or

darker with bronzer and other applications. Women do not use it to fit the beauty standard of

whiteness but instead to enhance their current form. But this is not the only difference in the

transformation between makeup of the past and today, as makeup gets older, it is less focused on

making us look younger.

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The biggest beauty industry push is in anti-aging creams and lotions, and we arent

buying it. The Millennial generation focuses more on makeup to wear day-to-day, not to protect

their future. Maybe it is the reckless, forever-young mindset of this generation that ignores the

possibility of wrinkles, but companies are suffering. Decreased revenue in the anti-aging serums

and skin care specific items stems from the increasing purchasing of simple cosmetics that only

serve a daily purpose. Instead of trying to fix it, they are saying, Ill just cover it up,

Deutsche Banks Mr. Schmitz said of younger shoppers (Terlep). They do not look at solving this

issues through proper skin care, but instead masking them which is different from the past.

Whereas past makeup enthusiasts used makeup to look young in a way to beautify and fit

cultural beauty standards, women use it for the short term. Young adults are leaning towards

powders and concealers to create their overall look. This look is substantially more about the

expression than it is the concealing though, and this notion shifts the focus of makeup from its

past purpose of improvement.

The push for makeup from covering and improving to self-expression is a new concept.

We often times blame the Millennials for the shift in the commonplaces and conventions of

makeup. This generation looks at makeup as a way to outwardly express themselves. Certain

images connote particular personalities. For example, the red lip signifies mischief and sexuality

and boldness while a dramatic eye might express sass and confidence. The demure pinks and

roses influence the image of a sweeter, softer girl. And all of these personalities can be rolled

into one person, just different days of the week. Instead of burying imperfections, you are

bringing to surface your internal beauty. Makeup is no longer a game of hiding but instead
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coming out. In fact, more women are agreeing that when the put on makeup, it no longer deems

any gratification from other but instead is solely for themselves (Finsel). Women understand the

shift in makeup to a personal interpretation of self. Makeup has transformed into a tool for

expression, but not all people agree with the movement.

Trapped in ancient conceptions about makeup, groups such as men that do not understand

where the transformation of makeup is headed often judge women. As women use makeup as

self-expression and artwork, they tend to buy more makeup. Growing the market and their own

creativity, girls use more makeup. Unfortunately, for the men on the sidelines, they remain

believing when a woman wears makeup it is due to the self-consciousness and the need to hide

herself. Some men feel that women are disguised below layer of makeup, going as far to call it

lying. Even surveys prove the truth to this.

When surveyed by St. Ives, a cosmetic company, women stated they could only go bare-

faced two times a month (Holt). On the other hand, three-fourths of men claimed they preferred

the natural look of no makeup. Men and women have completely different ideas of what makeup

is necessary to look attractive. When looking further into the study, we challenge the idea of

natural. Men and women consider minimal makeup still in the no makeup or natural

category. So while it is unnecessary to go completely without, many men see makeup as a sign

of lack of confidence.

The stigma of makeup as only functioning to cover or alter features detracts from the

current transformation. Makeup can change the face to make a girl more attractive and beautiful,

sometimes so dramatically that others believe she looks like a different person without makeup.
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While many girls use makeup to express themselves, they are shut down by cosmetic-shamers.

Boys think it is a way to grab at attention. Now this does not apply to all boys, just as the

transformation does not relate with all girls.

Some girls are friction against the transformation of makeup. They believe its use stems

from the beauty standards in culture today, and in order to fully embrace yourself you should not

wear makeup. Others view it as an adornment in which women feel pressured to wear and feel

insecure if they are not protected by layers of makeup. Alicia Keys has been very much for the

no makeup movement versus the overall transformation of its purpose (Green). Women like

Alicia believe that makeup is imprisoned to its past, and the use of cosmetics conforms to a

patriarchal system of oppression where beauty is based off of hiding your true self and

establishing a hierarchy. Girls are backing this by vowing not to wear makeup and defying the

common beauty standards. Although this is a bold statement, for the girls altering the identity of

makeup itself, this goes against their motives. The transformation of makeup is hindered by this,

but there exists more to makeup than meets the eye.

Makeups function transformed as a tool used solely to fit beauty standards into a tool for

relaxation and peace. Womens beauty routines in the morning serve as rituals. They spend time

focused on one task, and often times this task is relaxing. According to NYU Langone Medical

Center's psychologist, Jennifer Wolkin, "this sort of ritual is a way to create a sense of control it.

It decreases negative thoughts and [reduces] uncertainty to create an illusion of control" (Cohn).

These meticulous, tactile routines offer a moment of calm and stability in our fast-paced world.

Makeup creates more than a pretty face; it creates a therapeutic experience. Numerous artists
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relate to the idea of generating artwork as a form of therapy, which links makeup to being art

itself. Makeup routines as therapy is a main component of the transformation of makeup, similar

to the idea that makeup is art.

Previously viewed as only a way to beautify and fit cultural standards, makeup has

become a form of art. Girls use a myriad of brushes to achieve these looks, similar to how artists

create masterpieces. Makeup is a challenge of fine-motor skills and precision. It takes patience

and focus to achieve the lines and colors of the perfect palette. Makeup serves as this medium of

art, and the canvas is your very own skin. We witness proof of this on high-end fashion runway

when clothes deemed as practical are matched with whimsical makeup art. The adornment of

faces of models are beginning to matter as supplements to the clothing they display because they

create the overall artwork and style of the fashion. (Owen) Makeup on the runway has followed

along with the transformation of makeup to being art. Makeup is not used to blend in and fit

standards, but has transformed as a way to stand out and display art.

The commonplaces and functions of makeup has changed with the recent shift of

cosmetics. Makeup has transformed from its original historical context of beautification and

establishing status to the current mass produced tool for self-expression. Drugstores make

cosmetics accessible and affordable so makeup no longer represents power in society. Girls today

are less likely to buy wrinkle-care and more likely to buy items they can use to create art with

their makeup such as bold lip and eye colors. The shift of makeup faces challenges when

encountering men and women who remain focused on the ancient function of makeup as way to

fit a beauty standard. Makeup represents art, and the Millennial generation has been a key

driving force in this shift. When it comes to makeup, there is far more than meets the eye.
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Works Cited

Chon, Stephanie. "Skincare & Makeup Routines Can Create A Therapeutic Effect To Cope With

General Anxiety." Bustle21 July 2015, https://www.bustle.com/articles/98919-skincare-

makeup-routines-can-create-a-therapeutic-effect-to-cope-with-general-anxiety. Accessed 16

Nov. 2016.

Finsel, Megan. "The Feminist Makeup Culture: Reconsidering Cosmetics." The Artifice1 Jan.

2016, the-artifice.com/the-feminist-makeup-culture-reconsidering-cosmetics/. Accessed 16

Nov. 2016.
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Green, Penelope. "Alicia Keys and the 'Tyranny of Makeup'"." The New York Times15 Sept.

2016, www.nytimes.com/2016/09/15/fashion/alicia-keys-no-makeup-beauty-

movement.html?_r=0. Accessed 16 Nov. 2016.

Holt, Richard. "Do Men Really Think Women Look Better Without Any Makeup?." The

Telegraph3 Sept. 2014, www.telegraph.co.uk/men/relationships/11072400/Do-men-really-

think-women-look-better-without-any-make-up.html. Accessed 16 Nov. 2016.

Owen, Charlotte. "Facial Awareness: Make-up as an Art Form." Independent20 May 2012,

www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/facial-awareness-make-up-as-an-art-

form-7769504.html. Accessed 16 Nov. 2016.

Terlep, Shannon. "Millennials Change the Complexion of the Beauty Business." The Wall Street

Journal3 May 2016, www.wsj.com/articles/millennials-change-the-complexion-of-the-

beauty-business-1462317335. Accessed 16 Nov. 2016

"A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Time." Cosmetics Info

www.cosmeticsinfo.org/Ancient-history-cosmetics. Accessed 16 Nov. 2016.

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