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GUIDE FOR USE OF TABLES C-1 AND C-2

d/Lo = ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wavelength in deep water

d/L = ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wavelength at that same location

H/H' o = ratio of the wave height in shallow water to what its wave height would have been in
deep water if unaffected by refraction

(shoaling coefficient)

K = a pressure response factor used in connection with underwater pressure instruments,


where

where P is the pressure fluctuation at a depth z measured negatively below still water, Po is the
surface pressure fluctuation, d is the depth of water from still-water level to the ocean bottom, L
is the wavelength in any particular depth of water, and H is the corresponding variation of head at
a depth z . The values of K shown in the tables are for the instrument placed on the bottom using
the equation when z = -d

values tabulated in column 8.

n = the fraction of wave energy that travels forward with the waveform: i.e., with the wave
velocity C rather than the group velocity CG

n is also the ratio of group velocity CG to wave velocity C

CG /Co = ratio of group velocity to deepwater wave velocity where

C-3
M = an energy coefficient defined as

C-4
Table C-1. Functions of d/L for even increments of d/Lo (from 0.0001 to 1.000).

*Also: b s /a s , C/C o ,L/Lc

C-5
Table C-1. Continued.

C-6
Table C-1. Continued.

C-7
Table C-1. Continued.

C-8
Table C-1. Continued.

C-9
Table C-1. Continued

C-10
Table C-1. Continued

C-11
Table C-1. Continued.

C-12
Table C-1. Continued.

C-13
Table C-1. Continued.

C-14
Table C-1. Continued.

C-15
Table C-1. Continued.

C-16
Table C-1. Concluded.

after Wiegel, R. L., "Oscillatory Waves," U.S. Army, Beach Erosion Board,
Bulletin, Special Issue No. 1, July 1948.

Table C-2. Functions of d/L for even increments of d/L (from 0.0001 to 1.000).

C-17
Table C-2. Continued.

C-18
Table C-2. Continued.

C-19
Table C-2. Continued.

C-20
Table C-2. Continued.

C-21
Table C-2. Continued.

C-22
Table C-2. Continued.

C-23
Table C-2. Continued.

C-24
Table C-2. Continued.

C-25
Table C-2. Continued.

C-26
Table C-2. Continued.

C-27
Table C-2. Continued.

C-28
Table C-2. Concluded.

after Wiegel, R. L., "Oscillatory Waves," U.S. Army, Beach Erosion


Board, Bulletin, Special Issue No. 1, July 1948.

C-29