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Microstructure of cheese: Processing,

technological and microbiological


considerations
Claudia I. Pereira, Ana M.P. Gomes and F. Xavier Malcata
CBQF/Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Catolica Portuguesa, Rua Dr. Antonio Bernardino de
Almeida, P-4200-072 Porto, Portugal
(Tel.: D351 22 558 0004; fax: D351 22 509 0351;
e-mail: fxmalcata@esb.ucp.pt)

Cheese is a classical dairy product, which is strongly judged by On the other hand, it should be emphasized that, besides
its appearance and texture; hence, a renewed interest in its mi- the supporting proteinaceous/fatty matrix, microorganisms
crostructure has been on the rise, as sophisticated techniques are also an integral part of cheese. Microbial activity pro-
of analysis become more and more informative and widely duces indeed major transformations of the cheese matrix,
available. Processing parameters that affect microstructure which will affect the final microstructure as well. Hence, it
play a dominant role upon the features exhibited by the final is also crucial to elucidate microorganismematrix interac-
product as perceived by the consumer; rational relationships tions, in attempts to understand the whole picture.
between microstructure (which includes biochemical and Consumer acceptance of a cheese product depends
microbiological indicators), and quality and safety of the directly on its appearance, flavour and texture e which
products are accordingly required. Subsequent to that extra are in turn originated by a thorough combination of micro-
fundamental knowledge, technological innovations may even- biological, biochemical and technological parameters, that
tually improve current cheesemaking processes, and permit affect microstructure directly or indirectly. Note that the
mechanistic design of novel ones. This review thus focuses ultimate success of any food product relies on consumers
on recent advances pertaining to the microstructure of cheese, reactions: in fact, human perception of organoleptic charac-
and discusses them in a logical and critical manner. teristics is closer to the consumer status at the moment of
decision than data generated by any type of analytical
instrumentation (Adhikari, Heymann, & Huff, 2003) e
Introduction
Cheese is a highly regarded food in most human cultures, despite its constraints in repeatability and objectiveness.
and has accordingly been present throughout ages in man- Texture is intrinsically related to the arrangement of
kind daily life. The variety of cheeses currently available is various chemical components within distinct micro- and
large, because a myriad of topical advances e encompassing macrostructure levels e e.g. proteic network or fat fraction;
manufacture and ripening, have cumulatively taken place it is the external manifestation of such structures that even-
tually determines the uniqueness and distinctive character
over time. In addition to the somewhat intrinsic (and of a cheese product. However, cheeses are particularly
unpredictable) variability within each cheese type, tailor- complex systems, so full and meaningful assessment of
made cheese matrices have been proposed based on specific the effects of microstructure (and texture) upon flavour
microstructures e which have emerged side by side with and appearance is still incipient.
introduction of alternative (or improved) methodologies in This paper discusses a number of fundamental aspects
cheesemaking. pertaining to microstructure of cheese e and specifically
Microstructure is not a static concept; it evolves instead
focuses on issues associated with microstructural effects
along the food processing chain, and eventually leads to ma-
arising from technological and processing approaches.
jor transformations relative to the original microstructure of
the milk feedstock itself. This realization thus encompasses
Manipulation of physical properties of milk
specific molecular compositions and spatial arrangements.
A huge variety of dairy products exists at present,
depending on the deliberate alterations of the original

* Corresponding author.
0924-2244/$ - see front matter 2009 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.tifs.2009.02.006
characteristics of milk e which always start with some Pressure treatments
form of bulk concentration (Malcata, 1999). A set of down- High pressure (HP) has been proposed as a suitable tech-
stream operations are normally applied to milk e which are nology for milk treatment to substitute, or in addition to
intended to alter, strengthen or create structure; they are thermal treatment. Its relatively recent development has
aimed at minimization (or even elimination) of potential been associated mainly with the possibility of inactivating
risk factors, e.g. product decay via metabolism of contam- undesired microorganisms and/or enzymes in milk; how-
inating microflora. Attempts to improve yield, as well as to ever, one cannot disregard the effect of such a practice
design novel products with better organoleptic features, upon milk constituents themselves, and consequently on
also lead to changes at the microstructure level. the final characteristics of ripened cheese e beyond im-
The most important unit operations in dairy food physi- provement of microbial safety and extension of shelf-life.
cal manipulation, that impinge upon microstructure, are So far, the most important concern in terms of HP-induced
listed in Table 1, and are discussed below in further detail. changes pertains to the physicochemical properties of casein
micelles and whey proteins e as HP affects intramolecular
Thermal treatments bonds, either reinforcing or weakening them. Lopez-
Thermal treatment is the most common operation used with Fandino, Carrascosa, and Olano (1996) reported that pressur-
milk; this is due to the tight safety that is enforced in food ization of cheesemaking milk at 300e400 MPa for 30 min
plants, including industrial cheese manufacture. Several dis- caused an increase of 14e20% in curd weight, and a decrease
tinct heat treatments have been successfully applied in of 7.5e15% in protein loss in whey. Huppertz, Fox, de Kruif,
industrial practice e ranging from mild to severe ones. As and Kelly (2006), Lopez-Fandino (2006) and Considine,
expected, the more severe the heat treatment, the more exten- Patel, Anema, Singh, and Creamer (2007) have comprehen-
sive the damages brought about thereby e as the thermal sively reviewed the molecular changes induced by HP in
history of milk affects the properties of the coagulum, and milk proteins, whereas Trujillo, Capellas, Saldo, Gervilla,
thus the development afterwards of microstructure; heat- and Guamis (2002) highlighted the principles of HP and their
treated (and homogenized) milk may in fact lead to off- implications on the final properties of dairy products.
flavours and weak clotting features (Singh & Wauguna, 2001). However, a thorough description of the aforementioned
Another consequence of milk heating is whey protein chemical and molecular mechanisms, and of the underlying
denaturation, followed by aggregation; or interaction with theoretical issues is not within the scope of this review e but
caseins, in the first place. The fraction of whey proteins rather the implications of such a type of process on the struc-
taken up may reach 50e70%, depending on their degree tural features of cheese.
of denaturation. A high pre-heating temperature improves It is widely accepted that HP treatments alter milk coag-
yield and stability of the final product, as well as texture ulation characteristics e either by reducing or increasing
e which will become smoother if short-time heating is em- the gelation time (Lopez-Fandino, 2006), or by inducing
ployed, because of increased water binding to the denatured proteolytic and lipolytic activities that promote acceleration
whey proteins (Hinrichs, 2001). of cheese ripening (Guerzoni et al., 1999). Exposure to HP

Table 1. Processing applications in cheesemaking milk, and effects thereof upon microstructure of cheese

Treatment parameters Microstructural effects References


High temperatures No effect on structure of casein micelles Kim and Jimenez-Flores (1995)
Weakened clotting properties Grappin and Beuvier (1997)
Denaturation of serum proteins Heinrichs (2001)
Interactions between k-casein and whey proteins Schreiber (2001)
Interactions between milk proteins and fat membrane components Singh and Wauguna (2001)
High pressures Effect on milk protein intramolecular bonds Guerzoni et al. (1999)
Change of coagulation characteristics OReilly et al. (1999)
No effect on activity of native milk enzymes Needs et al. (2000)
Reduction of syneresis Wendin et al. (2000)
Increase of cheese yield Capellas et al. (2001)
Closer-packed structure Kheadr et al. (2002)
Acceleration of cheese ripening Huppertz et al. (2006)
Lopez-Fandino (2006)
Enzymes (TGase) Modification of rheological and renneting properties Cozzolino et al. (2003)
Prevention of coalescence between milk fat globules Hinz, Huppertz, Kulozik
Incorporation of whey proteins and Kelly (2007)
Influence on primary and secondary stages of coagulation Bonisch et al. (2008)
Membranes Reduction of rennet coagulation time Erdem (2000)
Increase in firmness of coagulum Mistry (2004)
More compact structure of casein Benfeldt (2006)
Softer texture and altered flavour characteristics, in hard- and semi-hard cheeses
increases cell membrane permeability (Malone, Shellhammer, viscosity, buffering capacity and rennet-driven coagulation.
& Courtney, 2002), thus favouring release of intracellular Upon performance of UF on milk, proteins and salts are
enzymes and their access to substrates. This technique simultaneously concentrated, thus leading to an increased
can also be used to attenuate the viability of starter bacteria buffering capacity; this influences metabolism of lactic
throughout ripening, and thus enhance the release of meta- acid bacteria favourably, whereas coagulation time is re-
bolic compounds upon lysis (Upadhyay, Huppertz, Kelly, & duced and firmness of the resulting coagulum is increased
McSweeney, 2007). Furthermore, HP aids in release of Ca, (Mistry, 2004).
P and as1- and as2-caseins e depending on the operating Furthermore, membrane treatments have been used for
conditions, hence leading to destabilization of micelles recovery of milk components and their incorporation as
(Huppertz, Fox, & Kelly, 2004; Regnault, Dumay, & new ingredients in cheese manufacture formulations e
Cheftel, 2006); this renders caseins more susceptible to viz. UF retentates (Govindasamy-Lucey, Jaeggi, Bostley,
eventual action by proteolytic enzymes. Johnson, & Lucey, 2004), milk protein concentrates and
From a microscopic point of view, HP treatments of milk phosphocasein (Guinee, OKennedy, & Kelly, 2006).
produce a closer-packed structure in cheese, due to the re- Therefore, membrane technology can be regarded as an
duction in average size of casein micelles (Needs, Stenning, efficient tool for development and continuous production
Gill, Ferragut, & Rich, 2000); the finer structure strengthens of cheese, via intermediate production of highly concen-
the cheese matrix, via establishment of caseinecasein and/or trated matrices e that can be coagulated with little to no
caseinefat complexes (Kheadr, Vachon, Paquin, & Fliss, acid whey production at all (Nelson & Barbano, 2005).
2002), thus producing firmer curds (Lopez-Fandino et al., Despite its intrinsic advantages, UF has not yet been fully
1996). These findings are well documented via microscopy, adopted for manufacture of hard- and semi-hard cheeses e
both electronic (Capellas, Mor-Mur, Sendra, & Guamis, because of the harder texture in the final product, when
2001; Kheadr et al., 2002) and optical one (Capellas et al., compared with conventional soft and semi-soft cheeses.
2001; Wendin, Langton, Caous, & Hall, 2000). Furthermore, the high water binding capacity of whey pro-
Such a technology has been as well applied to cheese after teins e coupled with retarded proteolysis, influences the tex-
manufacture (Garde, Arques, Gaya, Medina, & Nunez, 2007; ture of cheese, which becomes progressively firmer (i.e.
Juan, Ferragut, Guamis, & Trujillo, 2008). Several authors more resistant to fracturing), more cohesive, grainier and
(OReilly et al., 2003; OReilly, Murphy, et al., 2002; drier, whereas the structure of the protein matrix becomes
OReilly, OConnor, Murphy, Kelly, & Beresford, 2000; coarser and more compact, thus resulting in slower softening
OReilly, OConnor, Murphy, Kelly, & Beresford, 2002) during ripening (Fox, McSweeney, Cogan, & Guinee, 2000).
have studied in depth the effects of a number of cheese HP Finally, Erdem (2000) suggested that casein micelles de-
treatments on key ripening characteristics of both Cheddar crease in size, and possibly undergo rearrangement via estab-
and Mozzarella cheeses. In general, high pressures (ca. lishment of hydrophobic bonds e thus producing a more
200e400 MPa) for relatively short times (ca. 20 min) compact structure and an increase in elasticity; Karami, Eh-
brought about changes in the protein structure itself e which sani, Mousavi, Rezaei, and Safari (2009) provided evidence
in turn improved the functional features of the final cheese for this fact via scanning electron microscopy. However, fun-
matrix, viz. an increase in the flowability and fluidity, and a re- damental knowledge on how the changes in milk proteins
duction in the melt time upon heating. On the other hand, and fat during UF affect cheese manufacturing is still limited.
lower pressures (ca. 50e200 MPa) combined with longer
processing times (up to 82 h) did not seem to affect structural Enzymatic treatments
features, as indicated by confocal laser scanning microscopy. Milk coagulation can be influenced by various factors, in-
cluding enzyme-mediated cross-linking of casein micelles
Membrane treatments via microbial transglutaminase (TGase) e a transferase
Membrane technology is more and more widely used in that forms bonds both within and between several proteins,
the dairy industry, because of its versatility and high ener- via glutamine and lysine residues (Kashiwagi et al., 2002).
getic efficiency. It basically consists on a pressure-driven Caseins are particularly suitable substrates for this activity,
operation through a porous solid medium, aimed at separa- owing to their low level of tertiary structure (Huppertz &
tion and/or concentration; it ranges from plain filtration to de Kruif, 2007).
reverse osmosis e also known as hyperfiltration (Mistry, Cross-linking of food proteins brought about by TGase
2004), depending on the percolating pore diameter and con- affects their gelling, rheological, emulsifying and renneting
sequent particle size partition capacity, from ca. 100 mm properties; Bonisch, Heidebach, and Kulozik (2008) showed
down to ca. 0.1 nm (Kelly, 2004). that such cross-linking affects both the primary and the
The main goal of ultrafiltration (UF) is to concentrate secondary stages of rennet coagulation. Hinz et al. (2007)
bulk milk via retention of whey proteins; this enhances yield reported, in turn, that TGase-induced cross-linking of milk
of cheese, which also contains lower concentrations of lac- proteins affects considerably their emulsifying features,
tose and minerals (Hinrichs, 2001). A few physicochemical via increasing the stability of fat globules against coales-
properties of milk are critical in cheesemaking via UF e viz. cence. Finally, Cozzolino et al. (2003) suggested use of
TGase as a means to incorporate whey proteins into cheese- a higher level of total free fatty acids than low-fat control
making milk, in a way somewhat similar to UF. These fea- cheeses, with a significant increase in their texture attri-
tures seem promising in cheese manufacture, as they butes and meltability; however, the full-fat cheese was
increase yield and gel strength e thus favouring awarded the best sensory scores, at all stages of ripening.
microstructure. Scanning electron micrographs helped elucidate how total
(or partial) substitution of regular milk fat produces cheeses
Characterization of cheese with different microstructures and inherently distinct tex-
The whole cheesemaking process contributes to develop tural characteristics (Lobato-Calleros et al., 2007).
a distinct and more complex matrix than the departing feed- Another good example of a matrix for which the interre-
stock milk. During coagulation e which, in most cases, is lationship between microstructure and final quality is
enzyme-driven, rennet enzymes bring about breakdown of apparent is processed cheese. Cheese processing was orig-
k-casein, that is present especially on the surface of casein inally proposed as a means to upgrade cheese of lower
micelles. After such a chemical step, physical agglomera- quality. Processed cheeses are typically prepared by heating
tion takes place e which gives rise to a more uniform pro- a mixture of comminuted cheeses in the presence of salts
tein mass, that spontaneously expresses whey; this process (Piska & Stetina, 2004) e which usually include sodium
of compactation (termed syneresis) may be taken one step citrate or phosphate, the main role of which is sequestering
further, by externally applying pressure onto the curd. On calcium from the calciumecaseinate complex and restoring
the other hand, fat globules normally retain their mem- the emulsifying properties of cheese proteins. The influence
branes e and are thus observed as single entities, which of emulsifying salts on the final processed cheese structure
may form clusters that are entrapped within the so formed has been discussed by Kalab, Modler, Caric, and Milanovic
proteinaceous, three-dimensional matrix. (1991) and Awad, Abdel-Hamid, El-Shabrawy, and Singh
(2002), among others; those salts also aid in controlling
Physical matrix pH and stability of disperse proteins, thus contributing to
Cream cheese is a spreadable soft cheese e which the development of an appropriate microstructure.
structurally differs from other cheeses because of its Several reports are available pertaining to manufacture
lack of a compact protein matrix, coupled with a relatively of processed cheeses, using lower grade White, Cheddar,
highmoisture content. Its major structural component is fat Gruye`re, Gouda, Kashkaval, Emmental and Feta cheeses
(ca. 33%), in the form of clusters of globules interspersed (and other ingredients) as feedstock. For instance, Tamime,
within milk proteins (Kalab, 1993); its microstructure has Kalab, Davies, and Younis (1990) studied the processing of
been defined as corpuscular, or composed of compact fat- Cheddar cheese with skim milk powder, and its effect upon
casein aggregates with large spaces filled with whey the microstructure of the final product. Kalab et al. (1991)
(Kalab, 1985). The moisture content thereof is a factor that found, in turn, that White cheese is suitable to manufacture
positively contributes to spreadability: if protein particles processed cheese, as the original matrix is harder even at
and fat globules are packed less densely, a high-moisture high levels of cheese incorporation. Finally, Piska and
product will result. Stetina (2004) focused on cheese ripening and rate of
An increasing demand for reduced fat cheese has arisen cooling of the blend.
among more educated, health-aware consumers. However,
decreasing the level of (or even totally removing) fat often Microbiological factors
leads to textural drawbacks, viz. a hard body with poor In microstructural studies pertaining to Serra da Estrela
meltability and stretchability (Merrill, Oberg, McManus, cheese, Parker, Gunning, Macedo, Malcata, and Brockle-
Kalab, & McMahon, 1996), as well as a rubbery texture hurst (1998) found bacteria embedded in the protein matrix,
(Mistry, 2001). The flavour, colour and mouthfeel of cheese and especially lining the curd junctions; they also came
will also be adversely affected, since a few compounds across with protein that appears as strands and free fat in
dissolve preferentially in fat (Li, Marshall, Heymann, & the smear e likely as a result of proteolytic and lipolytic
Fernando, 1997) e although a higher smoothness may activities. Furthermore, cells were either directly in contact
also be imparted to the cheese matrix (Mistry, 2001). with the fat globule membrane (as happened with most bac-
Fat substitutes e based on proteins, polysaccharides and teria) or located at the caseinefat interface. On the other
synthetic chemical molecules (or even alternative fats), hand, Lopez, Maillard, Briard-Bion, Camier, and Hannon
have been tested in attempts to convey at least as satisfac- (2006) found bacteria organized as colonies in the matrix
tory sensory attributes; among others, Wendin et al. (2000) of Emmental cheese e such colonies were preferentially
proved that it is possible to create a cream cheese with localized at the fat/protein interface, and both fat and bac-
a lower fat content, but possessing an organoleptic profile teria were entrapped in the casein network; similar results
similar to that of normal cream cheeses e simply by crite- were previously obtained during characterization of Mozza-
rious modification of processing parameters. A more recent rella cheese (Oberg, McManus, & McMahon, 1993).
study (Sahan, Yasar, Hayaloglu, Karaca, & Kaya, 2008) Lactic acid bacteria have been claimed to contribute to
showed that low-fat cheeses containing fat replacers exhibit cheese microstructure, viz. Lactococcus lactis e via their
role in proteolysis (Centeno, Tomillo, Fernandez-Garca, Innovations
Examples
Gaya, & Nunez, 2002), and Lactobacillus casei e via its ca-
pacity to improve cheese body and texture (Merrill et al.,
Existing product
1996). Strains of Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococ-
cus thermophilus have also been currently used in cheese
manufacture to increase moisture content and improve
Herbs/ham/etc. Incorporation of new ingredients
melting properties (Low et al., 1998; Peterson, Dave,
McMahon, Oberg, & Broadbent, 2000).
The hyphae of Penicillium camemberti, Penicillium Reduction/avoidance of harmful-like
Light product
ingredients
roqueforti, Penicillium glaucum or Mucor rasmussen pene-
trate the protein matrix, but their sporangia develop only
Bio product Incorporation of pre/probiotic ingredients
on the surface (Kalab, 1993); e.g. in Camembert cheese,
P. camemberti spores germinate on the cheese surface and
penetrate the curd, with a thick white mat of sporangia grow- Vitamins/Ca2+/ Inclusion of component(s) with nutraceutical
Peptides/etc. value
ing on the cheese surface (Rousseau, 1984). Brooker (1987)
found that deamination of amino acids by moulds on the Improvement/development of novel
Flavouring agents
surface increases pH, and consequently leads to precipita- flavours
tion of calcium phosphate from the aqueous phase e which,
in turn, produces a gradient between the surface and the bulk
of the cheese; this promotes a sandy mouthfeel, which is
New product
directly related to microstructure. Furthermore, such an
increase in pH facilitates the action of plasmin, thus contrib-
Fig. 1. Schematic formulation path of a novel dairy product.
uting further to cheese softening (Everett & Auty, 2008).
On the other hand, yeasts in cheese have been claimed
affects, in turn, development of microbial populations e
(Jakobsen & Narvhus, 1996) to assist in growth of P. roque-
which are implicated in flavour development or may even
forti by producing gas e which leads to curd openness; it thus
be vectors of intoxications. If microstructure issues are not
affects microstructure, besides supporting said growth e via
properly addressed, then technological improvement of
secretion of suitable nutrients thereinto.
foods will be commercially hampered by inadequate sensory
As a vector to protect bacteria from the putative
and safety features. Furthermore, incorporation in cheese of
unfriendly conditions found in cheese environments, immo-
bacteria that have proven in vitro to be beneficial to health
bilization of cells e via e.g. microencapsulation, appears to
requires adequate microenvironments e which are strongly
be a promising technique. According to O zer, Kirmaci,
dependent on the mutual effects of the proteinaceous net-
xenel, Atamer, and Hayaloglucth (2009), microencapsula-
S
work and the milk fat globule distribution.
tion does not adversely affect appearance or texture of
A new era in dairy food processing appears to be about to
experimental cheeses with immobilized bacteria, yet it
begin; the chief concern of industry e which is obviously
impacts significantly upon aroma and flavour attributes.
driven by consumer preference, will hereafter be coupled
with fundamental knowledge made available via sophisti-
Conclusions cated analytical apparata and imaging techniques; this will
At present, several food trends encompass creating desir- eventually lead to rational design of novel cheeses and ratio-
able, distinctive or novel textures, framed by attractive nal improvement of existing ones. Further complementary
appearance and appealing odour and taste. In particular, studies on microstructure subjects are thus fully warranted.
innovation in the dairy field relies nowadays mainly on: i) in-
corporation of nonconventional ingredients; ii) reduction in
content, or avoidance of harmful-like ingredients; iii) Acknowledgments
incorporation of pre- or/and probiotic vectors; iv) inclusion Financial support for author C. I. P. e provided via
of components with nutraceutical value; and v) enhancement a PhD fellowship (ref. SFRH/BD/18258/2004), issued by
of existing, or development of alternative flavours (Fig. 1). program POCI 2010, supervised by author F. X. M. and
Consumers are indeed calling for improvements in the sec- administered by Fundac~ao para a Ciencia e a Tecnologia
ondary (or organoleptic, including texture perception) role (Portugal), is hereby gratefully acknowledged.
of foods, but are simultaneously becoming more and more
aware of the health-promotion and safety constraints associ- References
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