AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE

Understanding the Automatic Transaxle

The automatic transaxle allows engine torque and power to be transmitted to

the front wheels within a narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will
allow the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of power and torque at
very low speeds, while keeping it at a sensible rpm at high vehicle speeds
(and it does this job without driver assistance). The transaxle uses a light
fluid as the medium for the transmission of power. This fluid also works in the
operation of various hydraulic control circuits and as a lubricant. Because the
transaxle fluid performs all of these functions, trouble within the unit can
easily travel from one part to another. For this reason, and because of the
complexity and unusual operating principles of the transaxle, a very sound
understanding of the basic principles of operation will simplify
troubleshooting.

TORQUE CONVERTER

The torque converter replaces the conventional clutch. It has three functions:

1. It allows the engine to idle with the vehicle at a standstill, even with the
transaxle in gear.

2. It allows the transaxle to shift from range-to-range smoothly, without requiring

that the driver close the throttle during the shift.
3. It multiplies engine torque to an increasing extent as vehicle speed drops and
throttle opening is increased. This has the effect of making the transaxle more
responsive and reduces the amount of shifting required.

The torque converter is a metal case which is shaped like a sphere that has
been flattened on opposite sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the engine's
crankshaft. Generally, the entire metal case rotates at engine speed and
serves as the engine's flywheel.

The case contains three sets of blades. One set is attached directly to the
case. This set forms the torus or pump. Another set is directly connected to
the output shaft, and forms the turbine. The third set is mounted on a hub
which, in turn, is mounted on a stationary shaft through a one-way clutch.
This third set is known as the stator.

A pump, which is driven by the converter hub at engine speed, keeps the
torque converter full of transaxle fluid at all times. Fluid flows continuously
through the unit to provide cooling.

Under low speed acceleration, the torque converter functions as follows:

The torque converter housing is rotated by the engine's crankshaft, and turns the impeller-The
impeller then spins the turbine, which gives motion to the turbine shaft, driving the gears

The torus is turning faster than the turbine. It picks up fluid at the center of
the converter and, through centrifugal force, slings it outward. Since the
outer edge of the converter moves faster than the portions at the center, the
fluid picks up speed.

The fluid then enters the outer edge of the turbine blades. It then travels
back toward the center of the converter case along the turbine blades. In
impinging upon the turbine blades, the fluid loses the energy picked up in the
torus.

If the fluid was now returned directly into the torus, both halves of the
converter would have to turn at approximately the same speed at all times,
and torque input and output would both be the same.

In flowing through the torus and turbine, the fluid picks up two types of flow,
or flow in two separate directions. It flows through the turbine blades, and it
spins with the engine. The stator, whose blades are stationary when the
vehicle is being accelerated at low speeds, converts one type of flow into
another. Instead of allowing the fluid to flow straight back into the torus, the
stator's curved blades turn the fluid almost 90 toward the direction of
rotation of the engine. Thus the fluid does not flow as fast toward the torus,
but is already spinning when the torus picks it up. This has the effect of
allowing the torus to turn much faster than the turbine. This difference in
speed may be compared to the difference in speed between the smaller and
larger gears in any gear train. The result is that engine power output is
higher, and engine torque is multiplied.

As the speed of the turbine increases, the fluid spins faster and faster in the
direction of engine rotation. As a result, the ability of the stator to redirect
the fluid flow is reduced. Under cruising conditions, the stator is eventually
forced to rotate on its one-way clutch in the direction of engine rotation.
Under these conditions, the torque converter begins to behave almost like a
solid shaft, with the torus and turbine speeds being almost equal.
 PLANETARY GEARBOX

The ability of the torque converter to multiply engine torque is limited. Also,
the unit tends to be more efficient when the turbine is rotating at relatively
high speeds. Therefore, a planetary gearbox is used to carry the power
output of the turbine to the driveshaft.

Planetary gears work in a similar fashion to manual transmission gears, but are composed of three
parts

Planetary gears function very similarly to conventional transmission gears.

However, their construction is different in that three elements make up one
gear system, and, in that all three elements are different from one another.
The three elements are: an outer gear that is shaped like a hoop, with teeth
cut into the inner surface; a sun gear, mounted on a shaft and located at the
very center of the outer gear; and a set of three planet gears, held by pins in
a ring-like planet carrier, meshing with both the sun gear and the outer gear.
Either the outer gear or the sun gear may be held stationary, providing more
than one possible torque multiplication factor for each set of gears. Also, if all
three gears are forced to rotate at the same speed, the gearset forms, in
effect, a solid shaft.
Planetary gears in the maximum reduction (low) range. The ring gear is held and a lower gear
ratio is obtained

Planetary gears in the minimum reduction (drive) range. The ring gear is allowed to revolve,
providing a higher gear ratio
 Most automatics use the planetary gears to provide various reductions ratios.
Bands and clutches are used to hold various portions of the gearsets to the
transaxle case or to the shaft on which they are mounted. Shifting is
accomplished, then, by changing the portion of each planetary gearset which
is held to the transaxle case or to the shaft.

SERVOS AND ACCUMULATORS

The servos are hydraulic pistons and cylinders. They resemble the hydraulic
actuators used on many other machines, such as bulldozers. Hydraulic fluid
enters the cylinder, under pressure, and forces the piston to move to engage
the band or clutches.

Servos, operated by pressure, are used to apply or release the bands, to either hold the ring gear
or allow it to rotate

The accumulators are used to cushion the engagement of the servos. The
transaxle fluid must pass through the accumulator on the way to the servo.
The accumulator housing contains a thin piston which is sprung away from
the discharge passage of the accumulator. When fluid passes through the
accumulator on the way to the servo, it must move the piston against spring
pressure, and this action smooths out the action of the servo.

HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM

The hydraulic pressure used to operate the servos comes from the main
transaxle oil pump. This fluid is channeled to the various servos through the
shift valves. There is generally a manual shift valve which is operated by the
transaxle selector lever and an automatic shift valve for each automatic
upshift the transaxle provides.

Many new transaxles are electronically controlled. On these models,

electrical solenoids are used to better control the hydraulic fluid.
Usually, the solenoids are regulated by an electronic control module.
 There are two pressures which affect the operation of these valves. One is the
governor pressure which is effected by vehicle speed. The other is the
modulator pressure which is effected by intake manifold vacuum or throttle
position. Governor pressure rises with an increase in vehicle speed, and
modulator pressure rises as the throttle is opened wider. By responding to
these two pressures, the shift valves cause the upshift points to be delayed
with increased throttle opening to make the best use of the engine's power
output.

Most transaxles also make use of an auxiliary circuit for downshifting. This
circuit may be actuated by the throttle linkage the vacuum line which
actuates the modulator, by a cable or by a solenoid. It applies pressure to a
special downshift surface on the shift valve or valves.

The modulator also governs the line pressure, used to actuate the servos. In
this way, the clutches and bands will be actuated with a force matching the
torque output of the engine.

Fluid Pan

For fluid pan (and filter) service, refer to Section 1.

Neutral Starting/Back-up Light Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

31TH Automatic Transaxle

Neutral/back-up light switch-31TH models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Position a drain pan under the switch.
3. Disconnect the switch electrical connector.
4. Remove the switch from the case.
 To install:

5. Verify that the switch operating lever fingers are centered in the switch
opening in the case when in Pand N.

6. Install a new seal and screw the switch on the case. Tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (33
Nm). Be sure the new seal has seated properly between the switch and the
transaxle housing or a fluid leak could result.
7. Check the continuity of the switch, at the 2 outer terminal pins, for proper
operation. Reconnect the electrical connector.
8. Lower the vehicle and check the transmission fluid level. Add if necessary.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable and check the switch for proper
operation.

41TE Automatic Transaxle

Vehicles equipped with this transaxle do not utilize a conventional

neutral safety switch or back-up light switch. Instead, this automatic
transaxle is equipped with a Transaxle Range Sensor (TRS), which is
located on top of the valve body, within the transaxle assembly. This
sensor performs the functions of the neutral safety and back-up light
switches. To remove the sensor, the transaxle fluid pan and valve
body must be removed.

The TRS, if defective, must be removed with the transaxle's valve body as an
assembly. The TRS is mounted on the top side of the valve body.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the gear shift cable.
4. Remove the manual valve lever.
5. Unplug the transaxle range sensor's electrical connector.
6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
7. Place a drain pan, with a large opening, under the transaxle oil pan. Loosen
the transaxle oil pan mounting bolts and tap the oil pan at one corner to break
it loose, allowing the fluid to drain. After the fluid has drained, remove the
transaxle oil pan.
8. Remove the transaxle oil filter while allowing the residual transaxle fluid to
fully drain.
9. Remove the mounting bolts for the valve body.
10. Separate the Park rod from the guide bracket and remove the valve body
assembly from the transaxle.
11. Place the valve body assembly on a workbench.
Remove the TRS retaining screw

Remove the manual shaft seal

 Removal of the transaxle range sensor

12. Remove the TRS attaching screw.

13. Remove the manual shaft seal and slide the TRS up the manual shaft to
remove it from the valve body.

To install:

14. Install the TRS by sliding it down onto the manual shaft.

15. Install the manual shaft seal halfway down onto the manual shaft, and seat it
in the shaft seal groove.
16. Install and tighten the TRS retaining screw to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
17. Install the valve body assembly up into the transaxle. Engage the Park rod
into the guide bracket.
18. Install and tighten the valve body mounting bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
19. Install a new transaxle oil filter and O-ring.
20. Before installing the transaxle oil pan, be sure to thoroughly clean the gasket
mating surfaces of the transaxle case and transaxle oil pan, as well as the pan
magnet. Then, place a light bead of RTV sealer on the oil pan gasket surface.
Properly position the new pan gasket on top of the pan gasket mating surface.
21. Position the transaxle oil pan onto the transaxle case and install the pan
mounting bolts. Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts.
22. Lower the vehicle.
23. Plug in the transaxle range sensor's electrical connector.
24. Install the manual valve lever and reconnect the gear shift cable.
25. Install the air cleaner assembly.
26. Pour 4 quarts of MOPAR ATF PLUS Type 7176 or equivalent ATF into the
transaxle filler tube.
27. Connect the negative battery cable.
28. Start the engine and allow it to idle for at least one minute. Apply both the
parking and service brakes. Move the gear shift selector momentarily through
each gear position, ending up in the Por Nposition.
29. Check the fluid level, while the engine is running and, if necessary, add
sufficient fluid to bring to the correct level.
30. Road test the vehicle.

ADJUSTMENT

The neutral starting/back-up light switch and the transaxle range sensor are
both non-adjustable components.

Automatic Transaxle Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

In order for the transaxle to be removed from the vehicle, an engine support must be used

WARNING
If the vehicle is going to be rolled on its own wheels while the transaxle is out of
the vehicle, obtain two outer CV-joints to install to the hubs. If the vehicle is
rolled without the proper torque applied to the front wheel bearings, the
bearings will be destroyed.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If equipped with the 3.0L engine, drain
the coolant.

2. Use an engine support fixture to support the engine.

3. Remove the air cleaner assembly if preventing access to the upper bell
housing bolts.
4. Disconnect the transaxle shift linkage at the manual valve lever.
5. Squeeze the grommet clips to disconnect the cable at the transaxle bracket.
6. Remove the transaxle oil dipstick tube.
7. Disconnect and plug the transaxle fluid cooler lines.

Disconnecting the shift cable from the manual valve lever

 After the cable is disconnected, remove it from the bracket

8. Remove the input and output speed sensors.

9. Remove the upper bell housing mounting bolts.

10. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
11. Position a drain pan under the transaxle where the halfshafts enter the
differential or extension housing. Remove the right and left halfshaft
assemblies.
12. Drain the transaxle fluid.
13. Remove the torque converter dust shield (inspection cover), matchmark the
torque converter to the flexplate and rotate the engine clockwise to remove
the torque converter bolts.
14. Detach the wiring harness connections to the transaxle range switch and the
Park/Neutral position switch.
15. Remove the front motor mount insulator and bracket.
16. If equipped with Distributorless (DIS) ignition system, remove the crankshaft
position sensor from the bell housing.

To access the torque converter bolts, remove the torque converter dust shield
Use the crankshaft damper nut to rotate the engine clockwise to access the torque converter bolts

17. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts and set the starter motor aside. Do
not allow the starter motor to hang suspended from the battery cable.

18. Position a transmission jack under the transaxle.

19. With the transaxle mount firmly in position, remove the left transaxle mount.
20. Remove the lower bell housing bolts.
21. Pull the transaxle completely away from the engine and carefully lower it from
the vehicle.
22. To prepare the vehicle for rolling, secure the engine with a suitable support or
reinstall the front motor mount to the engine. Then, reinstall the ball joints to
the steering knuckle and install the retaining bolt. Install the obtained outer
CV-joints to the hubs, install the washers and tighten the axle nuts to 180 ft.
lbs. (244 Nm). The vehicle may now be safely rolled.

A transmission/transaxle jack should be used to remove the transaxle from the vehicle
 With the transaxle secured to the jack, remove the engine mounts

To install:

23. Install the transaxle securely on the transmission jack. Rotate the converter
so it will align with the positioning of the flexplate.

WARNING
If the torque converter has been replaced, a torque converter clutch break-in
procedure must be performed. This procedure will reset the transaxle control
module break-in status. Failure to perform this procedure may cause transaxle
shutter. To properly do this, a DRB or equivalent scan tool, is required to read or
reset the break-in status.
24. Apply a coating of high temperature grease to the torque converter pilot hub.
25. Raise the transaxle into place and push it forward until the dowels engage and
the bell housing is flush with the block.
26. Install the lower transaxle bell housing bolts.
27. Jack the transaxle up and install the left transaxle mount.
28. Install the starter to the transaxle. Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts to
40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
29. Remove the transaxle jack from under the vehicle.
30. If equipped with D.I.S. ignition system, clean off the old spacer on the
crankshaft position sensor and install a new spacer. Install the crankshaft
position sensor to the transaxle bell housing and push down until contact is
made with the drive plate. Tighten the sensor retaining bolts to 105 inch lbs.
(12 Nm).
31. Install the front engine mount insulator and bracket.
32. Reattach the wiring harness connectors to the Park/Neutral position switch
and the transaxle range switch.
33. Align the torque converter to the flexplate mounting bolt holes. Install the
torque converter bolts and tighten to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Install the torque
converter inspection cover.
34. Install the right and left halfshaft assemblies. Install the ball joints to the
steering knuckles. Tighten the axle nuts to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm) and install new
cotter pins.
35. Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to
95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
36. Lower the vehicle.
 37. Install the upper transaxle mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 70 ft.
lbs. (95 Nm).
38. Remove the engine support fixture.
39. Install the input and output speed sensors.
40. Reconnect the transaxle oil cooler lines.
41. Install the transaxle oil dipstick tube.
42. Attach the shift cable to the transaxle bracket.
43. Reconnect the transaxle shift linkage to the manual valve lever.
44. Install the air cleaner assembly. Fill the transaxle with the proper amount of
clean, fresh MOPAR ATF Plus 7176 automatic transmission fluid.
45. If equipped with the 3.0L engine, refill the cooling system to the correct level
with a 50/50 mix of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water. Bleed the
cooling system.
46. Ensure all linkages, electrical connectors and fluid lines have been
reattached.
47. Reconnect the negative battery cable and check the transaxle for proper
operation. Perform the transaxle quick learn and torque converter clutch
break-in procedures.

ADJUSTMENTS

Gearshift Cable Adjustment

Normal operation of the Park/Neutral position switch provides a quick check

to confirm proper linkage adjustment.

Move the gear selector lever slowly forward until it clicks into the Park
position. The starter should operate when the ignition switch is turned to the
STARTposition.

After checking the Park position, move the selector slowly toward the Neutral
position, until the lever drops into the Nposition. If the starter will also
operate at this point, the gear shift linkage is properly adjusted. If the starter
fails to operate in either position, linkage adjustment is necessary, as follows:

1. Park the vehicle on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Place the gear shift lever in the PARKposition and remove the key.
 Gear shift cable adjustment (31 TH transaxle)
3. Loosen the cable adjuster screw at the transaxle operating lever.
4. Move the transaxle operating lever fully forward to the Park position.
5. Release the parking brake, then rock the vehicle to assure that it is in park
lock. Reset the parking brake.
6. Tighten the cable adjustment screw to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm). The gear shift cable
should now be correctly adjusted.
7. Verify PRNDLindicator still displays the corresponding gear

Throttle Pressure Linkage

1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

2. Loosen the adjustment swivel lock screw.

3. To ensure proper adjustment, the swivel must be free to slide along the flat
end of the throttle rod. Disassemble, clean and lubricate as required.
4. Hold the transaxle throttle control lever firmly toward the engine, against its
internal stop. Tighten the swivel lock screw to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
5. The adjustment is finished and linkage backlash was automatically removed
by the preload spring.
6. Road test the vehicle and check the shift points.

Halfshafts

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front

The axle nut should be loosened before jacking the car

 To loosen the nut, remove the cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer

On vehicles with Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS), each outer CV-joint will be equipped
with an ABS speed sensor tone wheel, which is utilized to determine vehicle
speed for ABS brake operation.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and
spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove, the axle
nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground, or damage to the wheel
bearing will result.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly
and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
5. Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
6. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.

With the vehicle on the ground, loosen the axle nut with an appropriately sized socket and a
 breaker bar

Remove the axle nut and washer, and discard the nut. (A new axle nut should be used each time
the axle is removed)

7. Separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.

8. If equipped, remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
9. Remove the wheel stop from the steering knuckle, if equipped.
10. Remove the nut and bolt that clamps the steering knuckle to the ball joint
stud. Using a prybar, pry the control arm down to release the ball stud from
the steering knuckle. Be careful not to tear the ball joint grease seal when
prying down from the steering knuckle.
11. Separate the outer CV-joint splined shaft from the hub and bearing assembly
by holding the CV-joint housing and pulling the steering knuckle away. Be
careful not to damage the outer CV-joint wear sleeve or separate the inner CV-
joint.
12. Support the halfshaft assembly at the CV-joint housing. Install a prybar
between the transaxle housing and the inner tripod joint (CV-joint). Pry against
the inner tripod joint until the retainer snapring on the tripod joint disengages
from the transaxle side gear.
13. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle by holding the inner tripod
joint and interconnecting shaft and pulling it straight out of the transaxle side
gear. Do not allow the splines or the snapring of the shaft to drag across the
sealing lip of the transaxle-to-tripod joint oil seal.

To install:

14. Thoroughly clean the tripod joint shaft splines and oil seal contact surface.
Apply a light coating of clean transaxle lubricant to the oil seal sealing surface
of the tripod joint.
 Using a breaker bar and a ratchet ...

... remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut

Using a prybar, CAREFULLY separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle (Be careful not to
damage the speed sensor wheel or ball joint boot)

15. Hold the halfshaft assembly by the tripod joint and interconnecting shaft and
install the halfshaft assembly into the transaxle, being careful not to damage
the oil seal. Be sure the inner joint clicks into place inside the differential.
Check that the snapring is fully engaged by attempting to pull the halfshaft
assembly out by hand. If it cannot be removed by hand, the snapring is
engaged.

16. Thoroughly clean the steering knuckle and hub/bearing area of all debris and
moisture, where the CV-joint will be installed into the steering knuckle. Also,
thoroughly clean the bearing shield of the outer CV-joint.
17. Pull the front strut out and insert the splined outer CV-joint into the front hub.
18. Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle clamp. Install a newsteering
knuckle-to-ball joint stud clamping nut and bolt. Be sure to use an exact
replacement nut and bolt during installation. Tighten the bolt to 105 ft. lbs.
(145 Nm).
19. Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Tighten the tie rod end-to-
steering knuckle nut to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
20. Install the disc brake rotor.
21. Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
22. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten the nut to about 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
temporarily.
23. If removed, install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
Once the ball joint is separated from the knuckle, pull the knuckle away from the axle and rotate it
sideways

It may be necessary to LIGHTLY pry outward on the inner CV joint to disengage the lock ring on
the inner CV joint shaft
Carefully remove the axle; do NOT let the inner splines drag on the transaxle seal during removal

Make sure to tighten the outer axle nut to the proper torque specification to prevent damage to
the wheel bearing

24. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern, to 95 ft.
lbs. (129 Nm).

25. Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly
tightened or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
26. With the vehicle's brakes applied, tighten the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm).
Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin
prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
27. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Road test the vehicle.

Rear
 Disconnecting the rear halfshaft at the differential

Once the outer axle nut is removed, pull the axle from the vehicle

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the rear wheel.
4. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the halfshaft. Remove the nut lock,
spring washer, axle nut and washer.
5. Remove the inner shaft retaining bolts. The halfshaft is spring loaded.
Compress the inner halfshaft joint slightly and pull downward to clear the
differential.
6. Remove the halfshaft.

To install:

7. Install the halfshaft.

8. Install and tighten the inner shaft retaining bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
9. Install the washer and nut on the axle shaft. Tighten the nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244
Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin.
10. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
 11. Lower the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery cable.

OVERHAUL

On some models, the only service that can be performed on the

halfshaft assemblies is to replace the driveshaft seal boot on the
inner tripod joint.

If any failure to the internal halfshaft components is found, the halfshaft must
be replaced as an assembly.

The lubricant type and amount necessary for the inner joints is
different than that for the outer joints. Use only the recommended
lubricants in the specified amounts when servicing the halfshafts.

Inner Tripod Joint Seal Boot

The inner tripod joints do not use any internal retainers in the tripod housing
to hold the spider assembly in the housing. Therefore, do not pull on the
interconnecting shaft to detach the tripod housing from the transaxle stub
shaft. Removing them in this way will damage the inboard joint sealing boots.

1. Remove the halfshaft requiring boot replacement from the vehicle, as outlined
earlier in this section.

2. Remove the large boot clamp that holds the inner tripod joint sealing boot to
the tripod joint housing. Discard the clamp. Then, remove the small clamp that
holds the inner tripod joint sealing boot to the interconnecting shaft and
discard. Remove the sealing boot from the tripod housing and slide it down
the interconnecting shaft.

WARNING
When removing the tripod joint housing from the spider joint, hold the rollers in
place on the spider trunions to keep the roller and needle bearings from falling
off.

After discarding the boot clamps, remove the tripod joint housing from the interconnecting shaft
and spider assembly
 Location of the spider assembly's retaining snapring

If you encounter difficulty removing the spider assembly from the interconnecting shaft, use a
brass drift to tap the spider

3. Slide the interconnecting shaft and spider assembly out of the tripod joint
housing.

4. Remove the snapring that holds the spider assembly to the interconnecting
shaft. Remove the spider assembly from the interconnecting shaft. If the
spider won't come off by hand, you can remove it by tapping the spider with a
brass drift. Do NOT hit the outer tripod bearings trying to remove the spider
assembly from the interconnecting shaft.
5. Slide the sealing boot off the interconnecting shaft.
6. Thoroughly clean and inspect the spider assembly, tripod joint housing, and
interconnecting shaft for any signs of excessive wear. If any parts show
extreme wear, the halfshaft must be replaced.

To install:

The inner tripod joint sealing boots are made from two different
types of material. High temperature applications use silicone rubber,
whereas standard temperature applications use Hytrel plastic. The
silicone sealing boots are soft and pliable. The Hytrel sealing boots
are stiff and rigid. The replacement sealing boot MUST BE the same
type of material as the sealing boot that was removed.

7. Slide the inner tripod joint sealing boot retaining clamp onto the
interconnecting shaft. Then, slide the replacement inner tripod joint sealing
boot onto the interconnecting shaft. The inner tripod joint sealing boot MUST
be positioned on the interconnecting shaft, so the raised bead on the inside of
the seal boot is in the groove on the interconnecting shaft.

8. Install the spider assembly onto the interconnecting shaft with the chamfer on
the spider assembly toward the interconnecting shaft. The spider must be
positioned on the interconnecting shaft far enough to fully install the retaining
snapring. If the spider assembly will not fully install by hand, you can tap the
spider body with a brass drift. Do NOT hit the outer tripod bearings trying to
install the spider on the interconnecting shaft.
9. Install the spider assembly-to-interconnecting shaft retaining snapring into
the groove on the end of the interconnecting shaft. Be sure the snapring is
fully seated in the groove on the interconnecting shaft.
10. Distribute 1/2 the amount of the grease provided in the seal boot service
package (DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF GREASE) into the tripod
housing. Put the remaining amount into the sealing boot.
11. Align the tripod housing with the spider assembly, then slide the tripod
housing over the spider assembly and interconnecting shaft.
12. Install the inner tripod joint seal boot-to-interconnecting shaft clamp evenly
on the sealing boot.
13. Clamp the sealing boot onto the interconnecting shaft using a suitable
crimper. Place the crimping tool over the bridge of the clamp. Tighten the nut
on the tool until the jaws of the tool are closed completely together, face-to-
face.

The seal must not be dimpled, stretched or out-of-shape in any way.

If the seal is NOT correctly shaped, equalize the pressure in the seal
and shape it by hand.

Installation of the sealing boot on the interconnecting shaft

Tighten the nut on the crimping tool until the jaws are completely closed, face-to-face

Carefully insert a small prytool or trim stick to vent the tripod joint

14. Position the sealing boot into the tripod housing retaining groove. Install the
seal boot retaining clamp evenly on the sealing boot.

WARNING
The following positioning procedure determines the correct air pressure inside
the inner tripod joint assembly before clamping the sealing boot to the inner
tripod joint housing. If this procedure is not performed before clamping the
sealing boot to the tripod joint housing, boot durability can be adversely
affected. When venting the inner tripod joint, be careful so the inner tripod
sealing boot does not get punctured or damaged in any other way. If the sealing
boot is punctured or damaged while being vented, it cannot be used.
15. Insert a small prytool or equivalent tool between the tripod joint and sealing
boot to vent the inner tripod joint assembly. When inserting the prytool
between the tripod housing and the sealing boot, make sure the tool is held
flat and firmly against the tripod housing. If this is not done, damage to the
sealing boot can occur. If the inner tripod joint has a Hytrel (hard plastic)
 boot, make sure the tool is placed between the soft rubber insert and the
tripod housing, and not the hard plastic sealing boot and soft rubber insert.
16. With the tool inserted between the sealing boot and the tripod joint housing,
position the inner tripod joint on the driveshaft until the correct sealing boot
edge-to-edge length is attained for the type of sealing boot material being
used. Then remove the tool.
17. Clamp the tripod sealing boot to the tripod joint using the proper procedure
for the type of boot clamp. If the boot uses a crimp-type boot clamp, clamp the
sealing boot onto the tripod housing using crimping tool C-4975-A or
equivalent. Place the tool over the bridge of the clamp, then tighten the nut on
the tool until the jaws are closed completely together, face-to-face.

When installing a latching-type boot clamp, position a suitable clamp locking tool on the clamp as
shown ...

... then squeeze the tool together in order to properly install the latching-type clamp

18. If the boot uses low profile, latching type boot clamps, clamp the sealing boot
onto the tripod housing using clamp locking tool YA3050 or equivalent, as
shown in the accompanying figure. Place the prongs of the clamp locking tool
in the holes of the clamp. Squeeze the tool together until the top band of the
clamp is latched behind the 2 tabs on the lower band of the clamp.

19. Install the halfshaft in the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section.
Outer CV-Joint Seal Boot

This procedure only applies to vehicles equipped with removable

outer CV joints. Some 1997 and later models use a different type of
axle which does not allow servicing of the outer CV joint. If the outer
boot needs replacement, the inner tripod assembly will need to be
removed.

On models with removable outer CV joints, a circlip holds the joint to the shaft

Use a soft-faced hammer to lightly tap the outer CV joint from the shaft

1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section.

2. Remove the large boot clamp that holds the inner tripod joint sealing boot to
the tripod joint housing. Discard the clamp. Then, remove the small clamp that
holds the inner tripod joint sealing boot to the interconnecting shaft and
discard. Remove the sealing boot from the tripod housing and slide it down
the interconnecting shaft.
3. Wipe away the grease to expose the outer CV-joint.
4. Remove the outer CV-joint from the interconnecting shaft by performing the
following:
 1. Place the interconnecting shaft in a soft jawed
vise.
2. Using a soft-faced hammer, sharply hit the end
of the CV-joint housing to dislodge the housing
from the internal circlip on the interconnecting
shaft.
3. Slide the outer CV-joint off the end of the
interconnecting shaft; the joint may have to be
tapped off using a soft-faced hammer.

Remove the circlip from the shaft using a pair of snapring pliers before removing the boot
5. Use a pair of snapring pliers to remove the large circlip from the
interconnecting shaft before trying to remove the outer CV-joint sealing boot.
6. Slide the faulty boot off the interconnecting shaft.
7. Throughly clean and inspect the outer CV-joint and interconnecting joint for
signs of excessive wear. If any parts show extreme wear, the halfshaft must be
replaced.

To install:

8. Slide the new boot-to-interconnecting shaft retaining clamp onto the

interconnecting shaft. Slide the outer CV-joint assembly boot onto the
interconnecting shaft. The boot must be positioned on the interconnecting
shaft so the raised bead of the inside of the seal boot is in the groove on the
interconnecting shaft.

9. Align the splines on the interconnecting shaft with the splines on the cross of
the outer CV-joint and start the outer CV-joint onto the interconnecting shaft.
If necessary, use a soft faced hammer to install the outer C/V joint to the interconnecting shaft

The outer CV-joint must be installed until the cross of the joint is seated against the shaft circlip

10. Install the outer CV-joint onto the interconnecting shaft by using a soft-faced
hammer and tapping the end of the stub axle (with the nut installed) until the
outer CV-joint is fully seated on the shaft.

11. The outer CV-joint must be installed on the interconnecting shaft until the
cross of the CV-joint is seated against the circlip on the shaft.
12. Place 1/2 of the grease provided with the boot service package (DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER TYPE OF GREASE) into the outer CV-joint housing. Place the
remaining grease into the boot.
13. Install the outer CV-joint boot-to-interconnecting shaft clamp evenly on the
sealing boot.
14. Clamp the boot onto the interconnecting shaft using C-4975-A or an
equivalent crimping tool, as follows:
1. Place the crimping tool over the bridge of the
clamp.
2. Tighten the nut on the crimping tool until the
jaws on the tool are closed completely together,
face-to-face.
15. Position the outer CV-joint boot into its retaining groove on the outer CV-joint
housing. Install the boot-to-housing clamp evenly on the housing. Install the
sealing boot-to-outer CV-joint retaining clamp evenly on the sealing boot.
16. Clamp the boot onto the outer CV-joint housing using a suitable crimping tool.
Place the crimping tool over the bridge of the clamp, then tighten the nut on
the crimping tool until the jaws on the tool are closed completely together,
face-to-face.
17. Install the halfshaft in the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section.

Chilton Automotive Information Systems. 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.