Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

INFUS ION A/W 17/18

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C O NTEX T
H ow is te chnology s ha ping us , a nd how
a re we s ha ping te chnology?

Humans and machines are gradually converging,

as we seek to join the dots between our digital
and physical identities our brains and bodies,
our hardware and software. The push will be to
make technology a more seamless part of life, and
make life-like, intuitive qualities a more seamless
part of technology. Tech will be increasingly
wearable, integrated into tactile and decorative
Saina Koohnavard
fabrics and forms, and definitions of gender, body
type and race will become more fluid and open- Google Quantum Chip

sourced.
Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision
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KEY TAKEAWAYS
As technology matures, interest will grow in its impact on
humans and how the two can work together. Man and machine
will converge, creating an increasingly symbiotic and multi-
layered relationship.

Technology will continue to connect people like never before,

with live video chat creating global tribes of like-minded people.

Code-to-care techniques will use immersive game technology as

a new form of medical therapy to prevent and cure illnesses and
to maintain mental and physical fitness

People will seek to reframe and reform their identities offline just
as much as they do online, further challenging and blurring
gender and racial stereotypes. Wellness and beauty rituals will
also be personally tailored, harnessing DNA technology

Two extremes merge, as technology is seamlessly integrated

within tactile fabrics, creating materials that are simultaneously
glamorous, timeless, and multifunctional

Matteo Fogale and Laetitia de Allegri

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Tech is becoming
closer and closer to
us, it's starting to
infiltrate that sacred
barrier between us and
the outside world. As
that happens, there's
even more reason for
our tech to become
emotionally sensitive.
Benjamin Males, Ch ief Tech nolog y O f f icer , S t udio X O

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Alexandr Kostin


T EC H PO SITIVE
CONSUMER
Adults have tended to see time online
for teenagers as this frivolous, time-
wasting thing thats just entertainment.
But what we found is that its crucial for
teenagers in forming and maintaining
these really important relationships in
their lives, says Amanda Lenhart,
associate director of research at Pew
Research Center.
Technology is connecting people,
especially youth, like never before,
creating global tribes in addition to
regional youth groups. While the internet
has a dark side, research shows online
connectivity is crucial to youth
relationships 57% of teens have met a
new friend online and 70% of teen social
media users feel better connected to
their friends feelings through social
media, according to a recent Pew
Research Center study.
Online interaction between teens has
evolved from chat (instant messaging) to
Snapchat (a shared video app with texting
capabilities) and live chat, which is slated
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INFUS ION A/W 17/18
for mass adoption in 2018. Currently,
YouNow is dominating the game. It is
known as the first live social network,
like YouTube meets Facetime, where
users can search multiple live streaming
broadcasts and join conversations.
CEO Adi Sideman says the site is
averaging 100 million sessions per
month, with the average user spending
50 minutes on the site. That's more daily
time than users spend on Instagram,
Twitter or Snapchat according to
Sideman, citing eMarketer data. Camp Collection
Digital legacies are also a growing
priority. Facebook and Google have
amended their security settings to allow
users to select one digital heir to
manage or delete their account. Early
adopters of digital legacy trends are also
using apps such as Tweet Heaven, which
extend the life of tweets beyond their
timeline. Users enter their Twitter
information, and the browser-based app
creates a digital billboard of all their
posts, which can be read out loud by a
text-to-speech narrator.
Curate LA
YouNow Blog
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C O DE-TO -C U R E
CONSUMER

New technologies have been Brain fitness games are already

transforming the medical industry for emerging and are expected to become a
some time, but code-to-care techniques $6bn industry by 2020. Video-game
are signalling a more immersive, therapies are used to enhance cognitive
interactive relationship with patients. control and in some cases, aid memory.
Wizard, an iOS app created by University
The appeal of gaming techniques in the
of Cambridge researchers, shows early
medical industry is a no-brainer:
signs of improving memory for
interactive games have multi-
schizophrenia patients. According to
demographic appeal and replace fear with
Barbara Sahakian, professor of psychiatry
fun. The Fitzania installation in Dubai by
at Cambridge, this proof-of-concept
Brooklyn-based studio Specular is
study is important because it
described as part immersive game, part
demonstrates that the memory game can
preventative medicine check-up, and it's
help where drugs have so far failed.
probable that similar virtual check-up
Because the game is interesting, even
games could soon become a reality. In
those patients with a general lack of
the interactive game, your biometric data
motivation are spurred on to continue the
is tracked through movement, and an
training.
on-the-spot diagnosis and prescription
is provided once completed. Technologists are also aiming to enhance
workouts. Icarus, created by German
For doctors, Surgical Theatre products
design firm HYVE, is the first virtual-
are blending intra-operative navigation
reality exercise station, which provides a
with 3D Virtual Reality (based on CT or
simulated experience of flying, riding
MRI images), giving surgeons the tools
roller coasters and deep sea diving, in
to virtually fly-through the brain.
order to help users burn calories and
tone muscles.

Human Connectome Project

Surgical Theater

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision


DESIGN FOR DIVERSITY
C O N S U M E R
As it becomes easier to personally tailor
online profiles, people also want to tailor
their offline profiles. Old social identifiers
are eroded, new ideas emerge, with
society challenging and redefining body
image and racial stereotypes.
With growth of consciousness around
health and wellness, a strong physique is
no longer taboo for women and young
girls. Athletic role models such as Serena
Williams and Amanda Bingson are being
featured on the cover of magazines, and
more importantly, they identify
themselves as being healthy, not skinny.
I think its important to show that
athletes come in all shapes and sizes,
says Bingson in the ESPN Body Issue.
Whatever your body type is, just use it.
For transgender communities, the
undergarment market is transforming, in
line with greater societal acceptance.
Companies such as All is Fair in Love and
Wear and Underworks are creating
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stylish, comfortable and effective
modification garments to reframe and
reform without limitation".
Probably the most controversial body
reform is racial reformation, also known as
racial reassignment. While this subject
deeply divides many communities, the
facts are that racial reassignment is
currently happening; recently, a 25-year-
old Brazilian man underwent underwent
10 plastic surgery operations to look Stefano Menconi
Korean.
Speaking to NY Magazine, plastic
surgeon Dr Michael Jones said: I think
were kind of losing ethnic niches ... As
we travel more, we have more interracial
unions. Essentially, in 200 years, were
going to have one race.
Peter Hapak
All Is Fair In Love And Wear Stefano Menconi

EMOTIONAL
CONSUMER
ENVIRONMENTS
Tech-connected homes are often more
associated with functionality than
cosiness. Though the market is growing
smart home products are projected to
be a $71bn market in 2018 the lack of
mass adoption may be attributed to a
missing link: a human
connection. Realising this, interior and
product designers are now focusing on
combining emotional and technological
data to give the connected home a heart.
At the simplest end of the spectrum is
tactile, responsive lighting such as Ji
Won Jun's lamp, called You Light Me Up.
It resembles a human hand and responds
to touch - join your finger with the lamp's
to turn it on or off.
Wak by Los Angeles-based Lucera Labs
is an alarm clock designed with the user's
sleeping partner in mind. The app-
controlled gadget has an infrared sensor
housed in a small white box that targets
light and sound on the early riser, and
not the later sleeper.
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The AURA experience by Philips is
currently the leader in emotionally
responsive design, with the aim of
producing what the company calls a state
of dwellbeing. The interactive
installation produces light and sound in
response to movements, sounds and
colours around it, providing an ever-
changing reflection of its surroundings,
like an aural and visual pulse of the mood.
Perhaps the ultimate emotional Sarah Rothberg
environment, however, is to walk through
one linked to memories, such as a
childhood home or vacation home. This is
something artist Sarah Rothberg is
exploring in her piece, Memory/Place: My
Home. Using home movies, diaries and
photographs, she created a virtual replica
of her childhood home, which she is able
to visit through a virtual reality (VR)
headset. As VR continues to rise, its
likely that this type of experience will be
increasingly available to the public in the
near future.
Philips Exposure
Jiwon Jun

T HE C O NVER G ENC E
CREATIVE
As we become more dependent on
technology, we become increasingly
interested in the way it will impact on us.
The British-American sci-fi television
series Humans examines the
convergence between the two. Set in a
parallel present, it explores what
happens when robots move into our
homes and become sentient beings.
Artist Evan Roth also reflects on our
growing relationship with technology. His
photograph, veiled in a nostalgic, rose-
tinted pink, marks the spot where the first
transatlantic telegraph cables connected
with Europe. Confronted with this spot,
he looks back on his first encounter with
HTML back in the 1990s recalling
feelings of "empowerment and unlimited
possibility". On the surface, it's a work
that appears to be far removed from
technology, and yet the themes it
explores rekindle the sense of magic and
mystery that technology can offer.
Another more concrete example of the
growing interest in convergence
between humans and machines is a robot
named Stewart, which is designed for use
in self-
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driving cars. It interacts with
passengers to give them more control
over how the car is driven, and suggests a
more symbiotic, mutually beneficial
relationship between humans and robots.
At the other end of the spectrum is The
Institute for New Feeling an American
collective of artists that recently staged an
exhibition looking at how to
disconnect from technology. Its novel
approach involved a series of 'therapies'
that asked people to reconnect with
Felix Ros
technology in order to disconnect from it.
One, called Treatment for Hyperactive
Electronic Response Syndrome, involved
texting a number, which would cause your
phone to vibrate randomly, coupled with
an instruction to resist the urge to look at
it.
Evan Roth
Institute For New Feeling Humans, Channel 4
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SOFT WEAR/HARDWARE
C R E A T I V E

Fabrics will become smarter as
technology is fused with textiles. A prime
example is Googles Project Jacquard.
This combines metallic alloys with cotton
to create touch-sensitive clothing.
Indistinguishable from other yarns,
technology is woven into the textile,
creating an interactive surface. In the
future, this means we will be able to
seamlessly wear devices on our bodies
and interact with them naturally.
which includes designers and coders as well
as material experts and engineers,
is spearheading the wearable revolution.
Bringing technology to the fashion industry,
the studio is establishing a new genre: digital
couture. The blushing Bubelle dress, for
example, changes colour based on mood,
while other products include clothes that can
change size or download images and videos.
This creation of wearable experiences signals
the future of fashion.

The 3D Steam Stretch Fabric from Issey

Miyake also exemplifies wearable Studio XO Issey Miyake
innovation. Rather than pleating the
textile after its been produced, this
technique puts the structure in place
during the weaving process, which
when steamed takes on the form
intended: origami-like, structured pleats.
As the video shows, the simple
application of steam brings the forms to
life.

Also making strides in this field is the

forward-thinking Studio XO, a fashion and
technology company that sits between
the digital and physical. This hybrid
team, Project Jacquard
3D Steam Stretch

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

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G ENO ME G L AM
CREATIVE

In 2018, creatives will become products designed with our genetic

increasingly involved in, and intrigued by,
the world of genetics. Music band OK GO
is already exploring this, by releasing its
latest album on genetically coded DNA.
Working with a biochemist, the tracks
were assigned to strands of DNA. This
represents a new way of storing data in
the future, and indicates how artists will
look to create new connections in the
field of science.
Linden Gledhill, a bio-artist, also shines
new light on DNA. Defying our current
expectations of what DNA looks like, she
make-up in mind will be the next move for
wellness and beauty.
Also exploring the theme of identity
though from an aesthetic point of view
is the Japanese-born jewellery designer
Akiko Shinzato. Her new collection, titled
Another Skin, allows wearers to modify
and manipulate their identity through the
use of facial jewellery. Taking accessories
to unusual territory, these items allow us
to alter our appearance in new, unique
OK GO
ways.
Akiko Shinzato

is capturing its sheer beauty as it

crystallises over time. Mixed with a water-
based solution and placed between two
glass slides, her work makes DNA look
like beautifully abstract art.

Moving this into food is the visionary duo

Bompas and Parr. They recently set up a
pop-up called PharmaCaf in Dubai,
where they created a
biologically bespoke nutraceutical
cocktail based on an individual's DNA,
which was obtained on entry to the
cafe, following a hand scan of each visitor.
What this implies is that Linden Gledhill Bompas & Parr

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D IG ITAL PL U SH
CREATIVE

In 2018, the digital will become again to create soft, overlapping

increasingly physical, as design looks to transparencies. Stern brings a
capture the ongoing activity of the online physicality, a digital plushness, to the
world in a new, physical setting. limits of two-dimensional photography.

A prime example is Social Sound. This is
a live performance tool that gives voice to
digital noise to whats going on in the
social sphere, online, at any given time.
Here people physically gather together
with their laptops to read tweets out
loud. The result? A cacophony of sounds:
a new, near-future orchestra that allows
us to imagine what the Internet sounds
like.
Metagramme is another example that
visualises the layers of activity present in
the virtual world. With Metagramme, you
can merge all your images (by hashtag)
into one multilayered, multifaceted
photograph. This fusion of images
creates depth - a digital blur.
Philipp Schmitt also explores the detail
and depth of the digital world. He has
designed Camera Restricta, which only
allows you to take original
photographs. Scanning the Internet
and delving into the many layers of
digital activity in the virtual world, it will
retract the shutter if it determines too
many photos have been taken at your
location.
Metagramme David Samuel Stern

In a similar way, the work of David Samuel

Stern illustrates how the digital can take
on more texture. He has taken two
separate photographs, cut them up and
physically woven them back together
Philipp Schmitt

Lux Loop

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

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POST RETRO
STYLE

he convergence of past, present and future sees

T
a confident classic style emerging, with an
essence of timeless modernity. A subtle nod to
the 1970s is played out through a glamorous,
almost cinematic quality, along with familiar retro
colour and material references. These are pared
down and made modern through new forms and
constructions. Minimal detailing and smooth lines
merge with textured classics for an innovative Daniel Steegmann

approach to premium daywear.

Jaime Hayon

Facundo Pieres Thomas Goldblum

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MODERN
STYLE

OPULENCE
An elegant balance between maximalism
and minimalism results in richness and
tactility. Simple forms are elevated into
objects of desire with the use of indulgent
materials and fabrics, exuding an
effortless luxury. Products, settings and
silhouettes are transformed with
aspirational and sometimes unexpected Pauline Deltour

pairings of materials and textiles, splicing

the innovative with the conventionally
classic and decorative. Simplified languid
shapes and silhouettes are
superimposed, offering a deluxe
loungewear appeal.

Gerardo Vizmanos

Jiyong Lee Jean Vincent Simonet

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EAMLESS
S
STYLE

TECH
Hidden technology, normally associated
with the active arena, offers a new
perspective for inventive hybrid sports-
lifestyle products and silhouettes.
Adaptable and convertible products
respond to consumer needs and wants.
Designs use state-of-the-art construction
techniques, while sculpted fabrics and
sensorial materials appear like an
extension of the body, offering a new Saina Koohnavard
expression of forms, weights and
volumes.

Pleade don't go over this guideline

Lara Giliberto

Fong Qi Wei Aliki van der Kruijs

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18-0135 TCX 15-4307 TCX 18-1451 TCX 18-1660 TCX 19-1320 TCX COLOUR
Billiard Green Burmese Blue Red Adobe Scarlet Sable Brown
The palettes shown highlight the key
This palette plays with contradiction
womenswear and diversity
colour messages while
for the A/W
being luxurious withpulling
16/17, a basetogether
of sableessential
brown, oak and red
tones

14-1012 TCX
across
adobe. Intense tonesthe
of core, fashion
billiard green,and tealaccent
and scarlet
categories. Detailed catwalk analysis, key
modernise and clean the colour
range. direction
Smoky neutrals
at key help
10154 C
Metallic

Metallic
street style, trade
bond the diverse
shows groupings. It is thiseditorial
and directional fresh angle that to
combine
createthrough
evolves the range clear and concise
to the onsetdirection.
of spring.

19-4340 TCX 16-1539 TCX 14-1307 TCX 17-1128 TCX 19-0515 TCX
Teal Coral Rose Dust Oak Green Jasper

COR E
COLOUR S
13-0905 TCX 18-0306 TCX 19-4005 TCX

Colour > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Regional

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18-1451 TCX
Red Adobe

17-1128 TCX
Oak

LUXE BROWNS
Rich woody tones create the foundation of this theme. The warmth reflects an essence of luxury
and quality.

Colour > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Regional

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18-1660 TCX
Scarlet

SWEET RED
The red tone that takes us through from winter to spring captures a youthful spirit. It is a red with a little
more yellow than blue. Its sweetness has a modern edge.

Colour > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Regional

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18-0135 TCX
Billiard Green

EMERALD GREEN
A ripe green with a yellow tint, this tone adds a cool hue to a palette full of warmth. Highlighting
the importance of convergence, green is set to continue as a key colour message for A/W 17/18.

Colour > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Regional

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19-4340 TCX
Teal

15-4307 TCX
Burmese Blue

MOD ERN BLUE

Teal and Burmese blue evoke a masculinity that works across all markets. Both tones suggest a sense
of retro luxury but are forward-thinking.

Colour > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Regional

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ELEVATED EVERYDAY
Core staple products are refined through innovative and sometimes unexpected colour,
surface and material mixes. Matte and shine, neutral and bright or elemental and precious
elements are paired together for a confident approach to everyday luxury.

Application : apparel, accessories, footwear, interiors, jewellery, packaging, product

design, textiles

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
 INFUS ION A/W 17/18

ADAPTIVE STRUCTURE
Extremes merge as technology is seamlessly integrated into extremely sophisticated
products and materials. Computer software can now facilitate three-dimensional forms for
textiles construction during the weaving process when steamed, resulting into origami-
like, multi-directional folds and pleats.

Application : accessories, apparel, architecture, interiors, packaging, textiles

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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VEILED LAYERS
Translucency and opacity combines with tensile strength for intriguing colour filters. Smoky
tints are built up into sophisticated colour layers for textiles, products and interior spaces
using sheer filaments, resin and glass, and mixed-media materials, resulting in captivating
and immersive textural depth.

Application : apparel, accessories, jewellery, lighting, interiors, packaging

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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RETRO PAIRINGS
A timeless, classic design ethos emerges, with a subtle nod to the 1970s referencing an
almost cinematic glamour. Retro influences are streamlined and contemporised through
smooth lines, sinuous curves and selective colour and material pairings for an ultra-
sophisticated look.

Application : accessories, apparel, architecture, interiors, packaging, textiles

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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POLISHED LUSTRE
A desirable balance between maximalism and minimalism results in sleek tactility. Flawless
lustre is key for shiny mirror-like materials, enhanced by ultra-sophisticated gold, champagne
and cosmetic shades. Metals and luxurious leather and textiles are honed into both smooth
and textured surface effects.

Application : apparel, accessories, footwear, interiors, jewellery, packaging, textiles

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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INDULGENT VOLUME
Extreme and extravagant forms of tactility and scale lead to indulgent products with
generously sculpted volume. Densely lightweight or multiple material layers create
sumptuous silhouettes, while interior products adopt ductile, slumped and rounded forms
for a languid flexibility.

Application : accessories, apparel, ceramics, furniture, interiors, lighting

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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SPLICED-IN
Geometric splicing of different colours and materials creates a dynamic construction-
influenced theme. Marquetry and inlaid interior panels, graphic off-set jewels and pieced-
in apparel and upholstery-blocking result in innovative forms, surfaces and colour
contrasts, for a relaxed and sophisticated style.

Application : apparel, accessories, interiors, product design, furniture, jewellery,

footwear, packaging

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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PLUSH OPULENCE
A balance between maximalism and minimalism brings a rich tactility to the season.
Traditional velvet flock and plush pile materials are revived through Modernist-inspired
shapes. Sculpted dimension and future-forward fibres and processes update opulent
upholstery and languidly relaxed fabric.

Application : accessories, apparel, footwear, interiors, product design, textiles

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials
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SARTORIAL LUXE
Sartorial luxury and traditional craft combine for a reassuringly traditional signature style.
Aspirational and luxurious materials elevate functional and decorative products, apparel and
room settings, combining fine metals, rarified materials and classic design elements.

Application : accessories, apparel, footwear, jewellery, interiors, furniture,

product design, textiles

Materials & Textiles > Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > Surface & Materials