Beruflich Dokumente
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APR
WOULD
YOU LET
YOUR DOCTOR
Snapchat
Your Surgery?
Your7-Day
Plan for
The
Beauty of
GLOWING
SKIN
41 women of color
speak upand
speak out
APRIL
IN THIS ISSUE
BEAUTY REPORTER
47 Look We Love: Copper
Smoky Eyes
48 Editors Favorites
50 Good News for Eczema
Sufferers Its a Powder! Its a Liquid!
Its a Lipstick!
FASHION
65 Frame Work. Guccis bejeweled
rose-colored sunglasses
130
NEWS & TRENDS
24 My Look. Talking Beauty With
PATRICK DEMARCHELIER
90 Beauty Passport. An
American in Paris. One Allure
editor goes in search of true
French beauty and discovers its
not as elusive as you might think.
ON THE COVER
Dilone, Imaan Hammam, and Aamito Lagums makeup looks can be re-created with the
following: Oh Sugar lip balm in Cupcake, Easy Breezy Brow Shape + Define Brow
Mascara in Rich Brown, Katy Kat Pearl Shadow + Highlighter in Tiger Rose and Tiger Eye,
BEN HASSETT
and Perfect Point Plus Eye Pencil in Espresso by CoverGirl. From left: Wool bodysuit
by Wendelborn. Knit top by Bottega Veneta. Silk top by Narciso Rodriguez. Photographed
by Patrick Demarchelier. Hair: Ward. Makeup: Romy Soleimani. Manicure: Donna D.
Fashion stylist: Laura Ferrara. Prop stylist: Cristina Forestieri. Details, see Shopping Guide.
BRAID
Eleven ultracool hairstyles to rock
this festival season, from double
French braids to box braids. Get fresh
Secrets
ideas at allure.com/pretty-braids.
Double-Tap
That
Discover new trends, get
behind-the-scenes access,
and see what products
our editors are currently
obsessing over by following
From A to Z
us on Instagram at @allure.
OPI Infinite Shine 2 Gel-Lacquer in
Two-timing the Zones Top skin-care experts break down the most
popularand crypticingredients in your favorite
products at allure.com/skin-glossary.
Above, from left: Glossier Priming Moisturizer Rich, Lancme
Visionnaire Crescendo Progressive Night Peel, Shiseido White Lucent
All Day Brightener, and Philosophy Time in a Bottle for Eyes.
MARIE SUTER DANIELLE PERGAMENT AMANDA MEIGHER
B E AU T Y FAS H I O N
EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y DIRECTOR FASHION DIRECTOR Extra bobby
JENNY BAILLY RACHAEL WANG pins and a
DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR
ELIZABETH SIEGEL
SENIOR BEAUT Y EDITOR
JESSICA CHIA
BEAUT Y EDITOR
ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR
NICOLE CHAPOTEAU
ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR
JENNA WOJCIECHOWSKI
Bloody Mary,
for the, uh
vitamins.
LEXI NOVAK A RT I C L E S
in-flight A RT
beauty tip? P H OTO
VISUALS DIRECTOR
DESIGN DIRECTOR
RENEE RUPCICH
RHIANNA RULE SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
NICOLE ARGENTO
BOOKINGS DIRECTOR
RO PENULIAR
P RO D U CT I O N
SENIOR PHOTO EDITORS
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
JACQUELINE LADNER, HOLLY WATSON
HEATHER TUMA NAPOLITANO
ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR
PRODUCTION MANAGER
HANNAH CHOI
VALERIE THOMAS
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT
R E S E A RC H EMMA LOUISE JOSLYN
RESEARCH DIRECTOR
LORI SEGAL C O PY
RESEARCH EDITOR COPY CHIEF
AMBER ANGELLE CATHERINE GAMBRELL
ASSOCIATE RESEARCH EDITOR
CRISTINA RIVERA
COPY EDITOR
AURA DAVIES
Elizabeth Arden
Eight Hour Cream.
A flying-phobes A L LU R E .C O M
best friend:
Xanax. Calm mind,
calm skin.
DIGITAL DIRECTOR
SIMONE OLIVER
DEPUT Y DIGITAL EDITOR RACHEL JACOBY ZOLDAN
DIGITAL DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR SOPHIA PANYCH
SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR DEENA CAMPBELL
SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR GERILYN MANAGO
DIGITAL EDITORS ELIZABETH DENTON, SEUNGHEE SUH
DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY
VIDEO PRODUCER MAYA MARGOLINA
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER REBECCA SHINNERS
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL BEAUT Y EDITOR SARAH KINONEN
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR DEVON ABELMAN
ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA PRODUCER ARIBA ALVI
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL PRODUCER LARA ADEKOLA
ASSOCIATE PREDITOR ANNA ST YPKO
ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR CHANTEL MOREL
SENIOR PRODUCT MANAGER CATHY ZHANG
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT LINDSAY SANSONE
ANALY TICS MANAGER TULIKA SINGH
FO U N D I N G E D I TO R
LINDA WELLS
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
ANNA WINTOUR
A DV E RT I S I N G D I G I TA L
EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS DIGITAL SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
MARIA GARCIA, KIM CONWAY HALEY, SAMANTHA DANA
LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, SANDRA MAURIELLO
DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGER
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
FASHION, JEWELRY & WATCH
SARAH YORK RICHARDS
DIRECTOR
CARLY GRESH
ERICA CHEUNG
SENIOR DIRECTORS
U.K./FRANCE STEFENI BELLOCK, CHRIS MANCIVALANO
SELIM MATARACI 011-33-1-44-78-00-62
DIRECTOR
SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR JUSTIN REIS
SHERRI GINSBERG
SENIOR MANAGER
EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT MALLORY MILLER
TO THE PUBLISHER
VINCENT KEEGAN
M A R K E T I N G S E RV I C E S
SALES ASSOCIATES
JULIA BROKAW, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
CAROLINE GRANGER GERARD FARRELL
INTEGRATED ASSISTANTS SENIOR DIRECTOR,
ZUIE BILLINGS, ALEXANDRA KELIKIAN, MARKETING INTELLIGENCE
CARA KURICA, STEPHANIE TILLISON JENNIFER FRIEDMAN PEREZ
Lots of sleep
and a good
carry-on-friendly
moisturizer.
P U B L I S H E D BY C O N D N AST
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS S. I. NEWHOUSE , JR.
PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROBERT A . SAUERBERG, JR.
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID E . GEITHNER
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER & PRESIDENT OF REVENUE JAMES M. NORTON
EVP & CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER FRED SANTARPIA
CHIEF HUMAN RESOURCES OFFICER JOANN MURRAY
CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER CAMERON R. BLANCHARD
CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER EDWARD CUDAHY
EVPCONSUMER MARKETING MONICA RAY
SVPBUSINESS OPERATIONS DAVID ORLIN
SVPMANAGING DIRECTOR, 23 STORIES JOSH STINCHCOMB
SVPNET WORK SALES & PARTNERSHIPS, COND NAST
& CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, CN LISA VALENTINO
SVPFINANCIAL PLANNING & ANALYSIS SUZANNE REINHARDT
SVPSTRATEGY, 23 STORIES PADRAIG CONNOLLY
SVPAD PRODUCTS & MONETIZATION DAVID ADAMS
SVPLICENSING CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER
SVPRESEARCH & ANALY TICS STEPHANIE FRIED
SVPDIGITAL OPERATIONS LARRY BAACH
SVPHUMAN RESOURCES NICOLE ZUSSMAN
GENERAL MANAGERDIGITAL MATTHEW STARKER
Susan Constance
Kelechi Wu
Padma Watson
Lakshmi
Zazie
Beetz
Meghan
Markle
Jessica
Alba
Demi
Lovato FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
Dascha Misha
Aja Green
Polanco Naomi
King
Veronica
Webb
Eva
Longoria Joan
Smalls
COVER LOOK
From left:
Dilone, Lagum,
and Hammam
danced between
takes. These
pages: For fashion
credits, see
Shopping Guide.
SUNSHINE
STATE
Behind the scenes at Allures
cover shoot with models Dilone,
Aamito Lagum, and Imaan Hammam.
T
here were selfies, hugs, and a few playful
butt slaps. Platters of fresh ceviche and
stone crabs. And hips swaying to dub beats.
But this wasnt the best beach party ever:
It was Allures April cover shoot on Crandon
Park Beach in Key Biscayne, Florida.
Were all friends, so its awesome that
you got us all together, said Dilone, who, along with
fellow models Lagum and Hammam, was photographed
by Patrick Demarchelier for a celebration of the diversity
in beauty in 2017.
Having these beautiful girls with coloring that is just
magical, I wanted to choose clothes that complemented
them, said stylist Laura Ferrara. Racks of gauzy bronze,
brown, and beige dresses and pants gave a nod
to the 80s in an organic, free-spirited way, while gold
statement earrings glimmered like the sun on the
LUCIE HUGARY (2)
Hair
This is hair with character, said
hairstylist Ward, acknowledging
that with these natural, individual
styles, he was having a pretty
laid-back day. Im using an iron
BEAUTY
to define some of the curls and
adding grooming cream to protect
against the humidity, but thats
LESSONS
it. I want it wild and unstyled. No
hocus-pocus.
Makeup
Makeup artist Romy Soleimani
skipped foundation and used
a blend of oils and highlighters to
emphasize the models skin tones.
She layered gold and bronze
cream shadows on the eyelids,
tapped the gold shade on the
cheekbones, then dabbed on an
oil-based lip treatment.
FROM TOP: LUCIE HUGARY; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
The models looks can be re-created with the following (clockwise from top):
Oh Sugar lip balm in Cupcake, Easy Breezy Brow Shape + Define Brow
Mascara in Rich Brown, Katy Kat Pearl Shadow + Highlighter in Tiger Rose and
Tiger Eye, and Perfect Point Plus Eye Pencil in Espresso by CoverGirl.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
The Skin
Were In n 41 years, my skin has accomplished a lot.
It endured an astonishing ten-inch growth spurt at
age 16, leaving a grid of stretch marks on my hips as a
souvenir. Its balloonedtwiceto insane proportions
while pregnant. And its weathered its share of sun damage
during those reckless invincible years while still
miraculously keeping me protected.
Frankly, judging by my parents, good skin runs in my
family. I admit I was willfully blind to the dangers of the
sun in my more naive years. Three-hour summertime
field-hockey practices without sunscreen? Meh, Ill be fine,
Mom. I ended each school year a shade of caramel latte
and started the next as a dark roast. So I get how people
can ignore prevailing wisdom. Applying and reapplying
sunscreen is inconvenient. Its messy. Its a form of health
insurance that were never quite sure well need.
Of course, Ive learned a lot about skin care over
the years, and specifically about sun care.
Sadly, these days, I cant tell whether the fear of
wrinkles is scarier to people than the fear of skin cancer.
Two years ago, my husband lost his best friend to melanoma,
and its changed our lives. He was an athleteyoung, fit,
vibrantwith a family. Its all facts and figures until it becomes real
in your life. And let me tell you: It is real, and it is frightening. An alarming
number of people in this country still dont protect their skin from the sun.
A 2013 survey found that only 29.9 percent of American women (and 14.3
percent of men) regularly use sunscreen on both their faces and other
exposed skin when outside in the sun for more than an hour.
Dear God, please stop using tanning beds if youre still one of the stubborn
holdouts. And whatever your motivation, wear a product with SPF 30 every
day and practice good sun care. Yes, those steps might protect you from
crows-feet and laugh lines, but they might also save your lifeand your kids
lives. I gotta say, as accomplishments go, skin thats protected from
cancer is a tough one to beat.
FROM LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; HANNAH CHOI
Talking Beauty
WITH
PHILLIPA
SOO How the star of
Hamilton and Amlie
leaves her mark on
Broadwaybut never
on a costars cheek.
By Elizabeth Siegel
i
Wool vest and silk top by Michael
Kors Collection. These pages: Hair,
Jamal Hammadi; makeup, Samuel
Paul. Fashion stylist: Emma Wyman.
Details, see Shopping Guide.
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY CLARA BALZARY
finger and just press it on top of your lip color and itll
stay. And it worked! Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish
Powder works really well.
Skin Tone
Light, medium, darkas if it were that simple. A look at
how the world has redefined shades, reimagined
labels, and broken down barriers. REPORTING BY JESA CALAOR
1937
YEAR MAX FACTOR INTRODUCED
Pan-Cake, the first commercially
20
available foundation. It cost $1.50
and came in six shades.
,000
NUMBER OF SKIN TONES THAT
80
Lancmes Le Teint Particulier Custom
$
Made Makeup is able to match using a
computerized color-blending algorithm.
16,000
NUMBER OF CARROTS PRESIDENT
Trump would have had to consume over
the last 15 years to develop his unnaturally
orangish skin tone from carotenemia.
2,500
NUMBER OF SKIN TONES
captured by artist Anglica Dass
in Humanae, her ongoing series
of portraits of people standing in
105
front of Pantone shades that
match their skin color.
NUMBER OF BOTTLES
of Black Opal Ebony
Brown foundation that
Brazilian ballerina Ingrid
Silva uses every season
to paint her pointe shoes
to match her skin tone.
At Oscar de la Renta,
a touch of teasing
enhanced the models
natural textures.
Valenttino
TKTK
UP
To create the
pumped-up,
roughed-up
beehives at
Anna Sui,
SIZING
stylists used
texturizing
shampoo,
mousse, and
hair spray.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JASON LLOYD-EVANS; PETER WHITE/GETTY IMAGES; IMAXTREE; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; IMAXTREE
volume we saw
A tousled on the spring At Reem
texture
gave the runways was Acra, fluffy
curls were
low
ponytails at a little messy, twisted and
piled on top
Sportmax
an easy,
totally cool, and of the head.
lived-in
look.
utterly sexy.
Mini bangs
and beachy
waves at
Zero + Maria
Cornejo.
Beauty School
BY LEXI NOVAK
Delpozo
THE GLOW
DOWN
Youve been wearing blush forever, you say. Yes, we have, too.
FROM TOP: IMAXTREE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
1 2 3
Innocent. Look in Sexy. Blend a brick-red Lit. For cheeks that
Flower
a mirror and smile. See or fuchsia cream you would swear glow
Beauty those rounded areas? blush along the outer from within, rub a
Flower Pots Thats not where the blush cheekbones and rosy cream blush along
Powder goes. You want it just then up around the the cheekbones, then
Blush in below for a youthful but temples in a C shape to top it with an iridescent
Sweet Pea not doll-like look. sculpt and contour. white powder.
BEAUT Y SCHOOL
HOW-TO:
RODARTE
GLITTER
CUTICLES
Rodarte
PLAYING MATCHMAKER
Color-correctingrelying on complementary shades to even out
skin discolorationis awesome. Genius, even. But its also a little baffling.
Makeup artist Vincent Oquendo gives a quick refresher on makeup color theory.
covering brown spots and redbut you dont want skin instantly. Smooth on Becca First Light
undereye circles, says to walk out the door a silicone-free formula Priming Filter
Oquendo. Using your looking like an alien. For with subtle light Instant Complexion
fingertip, tap the color- Refresh, Physicians
general inflammation, try reflectors, then top it with
correcting cream where Formula Mineral
a sheer green-tinted a luminous-finish Wear Cushion
needed, and follow with primer. To hide a honking- foundation. Corrector + Primer
your usual foundation. If red pimple, dab the spot Duo in Yellow/
your circles need even with green concealer to Green, and Make
more lightening, top them neutralize the redness, Up For Ever
with a thin layer of skin- then use a brush to blend 5 Camouflage
toned concealer. your regular concealer Cream Palette in
on top of it. Professional
Corrective Shades.
SO
CHARMING
Pins, rings, butterflies, and things.
When it comes to dressing up our
hair this spring, the question is:
Dolce & Gabbana
What wont we pile on?
T
he first rule for wearing hair accessories this
Valentino spring: Go all in. No wussing out with a single
couture
dainty pin tucked at the base of a bun. You want
your charms front and centerand on the side,
too. Second rule: Stop being so fancy about it all.
Sure, you can wear bling-y clips with a gown, but
they look just as cool with a T-shirt and jeans. In fact, they look
cooler. As for the hairstyle that is framing the charms,
hairstylist Chris Appleton likes a ponytail, a chunky braid, a
messy bunas long as theres plenty of texture. You want to
make sure you have a lot of grit so the accessories have a
good anchor, he says. Second-day hair holds clips better than
freshly washed hair, but if grime just isnt
your thing, a little dry shampoo will give
clean hair some grip.
Clockwise from top left: Lelet NY hair
comb; Urban Outfitters butterfly hair clips;
Lelet NY hairpin and comb; Jennifer Behr
hairpins. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Alexander
McQueen
Keira
Knightley
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
Beauty Reporter
Three gorgeous
cases for copper,
clockwise from
left: Amber Heard,
Ellie Bamber, and
Adwoah Aboah.
LOOK WE LOVE
Copper
Tone
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
EDITORS
love and justice in a
classic French novel
a lot for a perfume to
live up to. But this sweet
FAVORITES
blend of violet and
plum is lovely and
perfectly balanced. $72.
Milani Spotlight
Face & Eye Strobe
Palette in Golden
Light. This swirl of
deep-gold, rose-gold,
and bronze powders
feels creamy (a cool
trick) and goes on soft
and glitter-free. $12.
17% OF ADULTS IN
THE UNITED
STATES REPORT
SUFFERING
FROM AT
LEAST ONE
ECZEMATOUS
SYMPTOM.
Eczema tends
to show up on
the hands,
wrists, upper
chest, eyelids,
inner elbows
SCALY-SKIN
and knees,
ankles, and feet.
FIXES
i f you dont have eczema, a skin condition that
shows up in the form of flaky, rough, red or brown
patches, you might not know there isnt a cure
for it. If youre one of the roughly 32 million people
in the U.S. who do have it, you cant forget.
The skin freak-outs are embarrassing (at best) and
painful, raw, and itchy (at worst). Current
treatmentsover-the-counter moisturizers, bleach or
oatmeal baths, and prescription corticosteroids and
antihistamineshelp, but theyre stopgap solutions
and dont work for everyone. Which is why more
than 20 medications targeting eczema are now in
development, says Chicago dermatologist Jonathan
Silverberg. Welcome news. And some more: One of
those new treatments, targeting moderate to severe
eczema, is expected to be available this spring.
An injectable drug known as dupilumab (brand
name: Dupixent) was given priority review by the FDA
and, if approved, will be available by prescription.
It delivers antibodies that block the signaling of two
inflammatory molecules researchers believe drive
Sephora the disease. Previously, these patients had to turn to
Collection immunosuppressive medications, whose potential
Lip Powders
FROM TOP: BRYDIE MACK; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)
Powder Moves natural ingredients are cropping up. New York City
dermatologist Steven Wang worked with his
Powder for your face? Pretty straightforward. But powder for your herbalist father to blend antibacterial indigo-leaf
lips? Now were talking serious chemistry. Lip powders (think and anti-inflammatory licorice-root extracts
of them as matte lipsticks in a funky, possibly-unnecessary-but- with skin-barrier-repairing shea butter. He says
whatever-totally-cool delivery system) contain a hydrogel polymer the final product, Dr. Wang Herbal Skincare
called silica silylate. The formula seems to liquefy on contact, but Eczema Ointment Natural Calming Moisturizer,
you end up with a dry finish. Whether you try one from a K-beauty can supplement topical steroids by helping to
brand, like Touch in Sol, Cle, or RiRe, or a newer optionsuch interrupt the itch-scratch cycle. Allure editors have
as the Sephora ones aboveexpect a lightweight, silky feel. If you also had luck with Skinfixs Eczema Balm, a
find them too drying for all-day wear, theres a hack for that: thick salve with sweet almond and jojoba oils and
Layer one over a creamy lipstick for a more velvety look. LEXI NOVAK soothing colloidal oatmeal. JESSICA MIGALA
T H E O N E W E R E WATC H I N G
SARA
SAMPAIO
Sure, she doesnt look all that threatening over
there with those soulful eyes, but model Sara
Sampaio could destroy you (or, depending on your
size, someone much larger than you). The Portuguese
runway star (and maybe youve seen the Victorias
Secret billboards?) has a brown belt in karate and
a passion for boxing. And like any superhero, she
knows her way around a good red lipstick.
On pulling no punches: I do weight training and
high-intensity interval running. I used to box, but
Id punch so hard that my wrists hurt for a week.
On taking the heat: I get split ends from all the
heat my hair takes backstage; Moroccanoil
Treatment makes my ends look a lot less frayed.
On her quest for perfection: I love red lipstick,
so I would love to create the perfect shade.
Not too orange, not too blue.
On her 35,000-foot secret: I travel with Sisleys
face masks, always. My skin gets so dry on planes.
On her beauty shortcut: Highlighter. Even
if I dont have time to do my hair and makeup,
Ill conceal spots and dab a little on.
On a very wise $4 investment: I always
have lip balm with me. Lately Ive been using
Rosy Outlooks The first thing I noticed was Its vaguely candied
scent. Pez? A strawberry scratch-and-sniff sticker?
Never before has our skin care looked so much like When I wore it I rethought my entire look. This
raspberry yogurt. New primers and moisturizers come shimmery peach-pink made this black-clad East
in sheer, pale-pink tints that can brighten every skin tone. Coaster look like someone who surfs before work.
When applied under foundation, a veil of pink will When I shared it It flattered friends with olive and
even things out, cover dullness, and boost luminosity on dark skin (the deeper your
both pale and dark complexions, says Los Angeles complexion, the more you need).
makeup artist Molly R. Stern. But pink-tinged creams Now I Swirl this on (with
arent for everyone: If redness is an issue for you, a rosy my own fluffy blush
primer would only enhance it. SARAH KINONEN brush, not the enclosed
Our pink picks, from left: Givenchy Highlighter Mmoire de square one) whenever
Forme, Nars Radiance Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 35, Im lookingor feeling
Shiseido Ibuki Smart Filtering Smoother, and LOral Paris a little too East Coast.
Age Perfect Cell Renewal Rosy Tone Cream. LEXI NOVAK
BE AUT Y REPORTER
IS YOUR
TOOTHBRUSH
SEXY
ENOUGH?
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KUTLU/TRUNK ARCHIVE; ANGELO PENNETTA/TRUNK ARCHIVE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (4)
Quip electric toothbrush: This sylphlike
wand (left), with its brushed-metal finish,
is the antithesis of its plastic drugstore
peers. For a clean mouth, its soft bristles
buzz for two minutes. For a cleaner
mouth, you can have replacement heads
arrive automatically every three months.
Crest Whitestrips With Light: The
Earth Shift tongue cleaner: If youre
classic whitening strips can now be
going to manually rake germs off your
supercharged with blue LED light
tonguewhich, admittedly, isnt
(below), which means the bleaching
glamorousyou may as well do it with a
process takes 10 treatments instead of
Calder-esque ribbon of copper. The metal
14and the sparkle lasts for up to three
is toxic to bad bacteria, says Brian Kantor,
years (depending on your coffee habit).
a cosmetic dentist in New York City.
Fig + Yarrow Oral Hygiene Rinse:
Boka Cocorinse packets: These cute
This clear menthol-and-eucalyptus rinse
mustard-packet-size pouches contain
(right) swishes away bad germs with
coconut oil spiked with peppermint
two natural antiseptics: witch hazel and
and spearmint, so oil pulling (swishing
hydrogen peroxide. And it comes in a
with coconut oil for 20 minutes in an
bottle wed almost display on our mantel.
attempt to remove toxins) is considerably
less gag-inducing than it once was.
But it seems some things arent
100
upgradableyou still have to spit it
out in the trash. LEXI NOVAK
DAMAGE
CONTROL
We bleach. We
dye. We deal with
IF YOU WANT TO GO PLATINUM...
the (sometimes
The only bond builder thats actually
literal) fallout. true to the name, Olaplex contains an
But maybe we dont ingredient that creates new bonds
have to. In-salon in the hair that are even stronger than
the ones broken by the peroxide
treatments called
in permanent dyes. It can counteract
bond builders are extreme damage from drastic color
making it possible changes, allowing a brunette to go
to change our color white blonde without crazy breakage.
without destroying
IF YOU LIKE RICH BROWNS
our hair. Lexi Novak AND REDS...
B3 Brazilian Bond Builder uses a
gluelike polymer to seal the hairs cuticle
and protect it (and, in turn, the bonds
inside the hair shaft) from getting
roughed up during the coloring process.
This sealing also means that any
dye deposited will be less likely to leach
outa bonus for rich brown shades
TA K I N G N OT E S and, most of all, fade-prone redheads.
Black Magic
Color lasts about two weeks longer.
At the Parisian bistro Le Voltaire, perfumer Frdric Malle IF YOU HAVE HONEY HIGHLIGHTS...
studied designer Alber Elbaz over turbot and frites. I was Matrix Bond Ultim8, Redken pH-Bonder,
curious to see if wed be compatible, says Malle, whod and LOral Professionnel Smartbond
admired Elbazs work for Lanvin. They talked successes, all contain maleic acid, which lubricates
failures, and their unorthodox methods. People should be the protein chains in your hair so its
more superstitious, says Malle, adding that he and Elbaz left less brittle and more elastic, says
have a few of their own: Alber always cuts cloth in one go, cosmetic chemist Joseph Cincotta. And
and I always smell perfumes on paper folded in two. colorists like Johnny Ramirez, a co-owner
Soon enough, they got to work brainstorming a perfume. of Ramirez Tran salon in Beverly Hills,
There were more lunches. More frites. More bottles of say Smartbond wont dilute the viscosity
wine. Elbaz sketched an evil eye, and they had their flacon. of dye or bleach as other formulations
Malle created an aldehyde with a hint of musk. Voil: can, so your highlights stay exactly where
Highlight Reel
I received it by mistake, says By Terry founder
Terry de Gunzburg, who created Yves Saint
Laurents iconic brightening wand 25 years ago.
We [at YSL] had a click-pen concealer with a
sponge, but one day the supplier sent it with a
brush, she says. Rather than tossing the defective
pen, de Gunzburg filled it with a mixture she
used to touch up models on photo shootstoner,
200 Clicks to empty the pen.
$0.21: Price per click.
6: Touche clats sold every minute somewhere
in the world.
lotion, and foundationand the very first Touche 1: Number of shades available when the
clat was born. But it almost never left the kitchen product launched in 1992. It offered a barely
where shed made it. They didnt want to launch there pink tint.
it then, de Gunzburg says. About a year later, I got
put in charge of the cosmetics line, and I launched
12: Number of shades available today.
it myself. Heres to taking chargeand to clat. Touche clats new limited-edition
JESSICA CHIA anniversary packaging is available in
three shades at yslbeautyus.com.
CULT
Lip
Locked
OBJECT
Fashion Notes
Work
Yes, sometimes rose-colored
glasses can get you in trouble. But
if those glasses happen to be
big, bold, and bedazzled, well, Gucci sunglasses, $1,310
youll excuse our optimism. (gucci.com). Jane Post
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NADYA WASYLKO polyurethane jacket, $325
(nordstrom.com). Dior
Addict Lip Glow in Berry by
Dior. Hair: Romina Manenti.
Makeup: Sam Addington.
Manicure: Holly Falcone.
Model: Lynn Palm. Fashion
editor: Nicole Chapoteau.
Tibi
Spring 2017
On
SILK SKIRT. Ruffles
liven up a serious-
looking skirt with
movement. $1,150
(johannaortiz.com).
JEREMY ALLEN (CHAPOTEAU); LUCA TOMBOLINI/VOGUERUNWAY.COM (RUNWAY); LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES).
are anything but uniform.
BOTTEGA VENETA
LEATHER SANDALS. Easy,
gold, pretty much perfect.
$620 (800-845-6790).
KENZO COTTON
DRESS. My kind
of uniform. GLOSSIER STRETCH
$1,175 (kenzo.com). CONCEALER. The
formula has moisturizing
oils and doesnt cake.
$18 (glossier.com).
NOTES: EXTRAS
Rainbow
Connection
One color is great. Two colors
are better. But a rainbow is a
partyand everyone is invited.
Celebrate the whole spectrum
with sassy, strappy sandals best
worn with unapologetic pride.
From left: Christian Louboutin suede sandals, price available upon request (christianlouboutin.com). Tabitha Simmons suede-and-leather
sandals, $845, at Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y.C. (212-753-7300). Casadei leather sandals, $990 (casadei.com). Etro suede sandals,
$695, at Etro stores. Red Valentino silk skirt, $895, at Red Valentino stores. Marc Jacobs suede skirt, $995, at Marc Jacobs stores.
Top right: Sally Hansen Color Therapy nail polish in Ohm My Magenta.
PLAYING
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
PAOLA KUDACKI
ELEMENTS of
Lipa performing
at a festival in
Berlin in 2016
STYLE
Prabal
Gurung
Spring
2017
Givenchy
Spring
2017
J. W. Anderson
Spring 2017
Here Comes
BLOOD ORANGE, FREETOWN SOUND.
A very personal, socially relevant
album. $9.99, on iTunes.
Cant Take
THE HEAT By Chris McMillan
A few days before the Golden
Globes, Michelle Williams had
an official nominees luncheon
to go to. I met her at her hotel,
worked a little sumpin sumpin
into her damp hair, then grabbed
a cup of coffee while she got her
makeup done. When I came back to finish her
hair, it was already finished. No blow-dryer.
No flatiron. Her hair looked greatand
it looked like her hair, not overly styled. And
these days, Jennifer Aniston often tells me
that she cant deal with blowing out her hair,
so she just puts styling lotion in itand she
loves it. The next day she loves it even more.
My point is: The hotter the days getand
the hotter the planet getsthe less anyone
is going to want to deal with heat styling.
And products today are so insanely
advanced, you really dont need to.
1 2
Consider your hair type (and color). Start with a conditioning cream, like Living Proof Perfect Hair
Generally speaking, if your hair is fine Day 5-in-1 Styling Treatment [McMillan works with the brand]
and straight, use less product. If your hair or R + Co High Dive Moisture + Shine Crme. Put a dime-size
is thicker or dark, it can handle more. amount in your palm, rub your hands together, and pull them
Dark hair tends to read as solid, so the through your hair while its still damp. Really get in there so the
more texture, the better. If dark hair is too hair is well coated. Once its dry, get out your beach spray
uniform, it can look like Lego-person Sachajuan Ocean Mist is my favorite. The key is to spray it on your
hair. And the genius of the right products hands, not your hair: Scrunch your ends up and boom: surfer texture. You
(i.e., the ones Im suggesting here) is can also try a fun hairstylists trick: Mix conditioning cream and salt spray
that whatever your hair type, you can in your hands and work them through damp hair to approximate
layer them. They play well together. noncrunchy beach waves. (And since air-drying isnt so great for calming
frizz, prep with a rich conditioner, like Living Proof No Frizz, in the shower.)
3 4
FRANK TERRY (MCMILLAN); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)
The
NEW
Beautiful-Skin
Rules
The most promising new research
TOM SCHIRMACHER/AUGUST
UP YOUR
CHOLESTEROL.
It may not be the sexiest of anti-aging
ingredients, but dermatologists are realizing
that cholesterola component of the
material holding our skin cells togetheris
one of the most important ingredients to look
PICK UP
for in a moisturizer (especially by age 40, when THE PACE.
levels can plummet as much as 40 percent). Were not throwing shade at
Its most effective when combined with fatty walking or lifting weights
acids and ceramides, which also help hold skin they beat sitting on the
cells firmly in place so your skin looks smoother couchbut if you want
and more radiant. Find the trio in Elizabeth smoother, fresher-looking
Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth skin, you need to get your heart
Restoring Serum and SkinCeuticals Triple rate up. In one study, people ages 20 to 86
Lipid Restore 2:4:2. But no one is suggesting who exercised at a high intensity (running,
you need to start eating butter by the stick: cycling, whatever youre into) for four or more
Theres no evidence that ingesting more hours a week for at least ten years had thinner
cholesterol will do anything for the skin, says stratum corneum layers and more energetic
Jordana Herschthal, a dermatologist in mitochondrial cells than participants who
Boca Raton, Florida. didnt regularly work out. In plain English:
Their skin appeared and acted younger. And
its never too late to reverse course. Even
SCALE BACK ON previously sedentary 65- to 86-year-olds
EXFOLIATING. who began moderate aerobic exercise for 45
4
Were learning that we have to respect minutes twice a week had a change in their
the pH of the skin and its healthy bacteria, skinsigns of aging began to reverse
says Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist in on a molecular level after just three months.
New York City. Physical exfoliators,
like loofahs and gritty scrubs,
remove good bacteria from the skin and throw
off its pH. That can trigger rosacea or eczema
flare-ups and boost enzymes that destroy
collagen and cause wrinkles and sagging over TAKE YOUR
time. Yikes. The good news: Mild chemical peels SUPPLEMENTS.
can have the opposite effect. Most peels are Crash course in peptides:
acidic and can benefit the skin by encouraging Theyre amino acid chains
growth of healthy bacteria, says Bowe, who likes that build collagen in the skin.
those with salicylic, glycolic, or lactic acid and And an eye product with peptides (like one of
suggests weekly or twice-weekly use. Try the our favorites, Olay Eyes Ultimate Eye Cream)
peel on a small patch of skin, like the jaw; if it is an effective way to smooth lines and soften
creates a mild tingling, its gentle enough to use. crows-feet. But now it turns out that you can
We like Philosophy The Microdelivery Peel. and probably shouldbe eating peptides, too.
Theyre one of the few skin-care ingredients
that work both topically and internally. In a
study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology,
women who popped a 2,500-milligram Verisol
collagen peptide supplement (you can buy
them at health-food stores) daily for eight
weeks had a 20 percent reduction in
eye-wrinkle volume, a 65 percent
increase of procollagen type I, and
an 18 percent increase in elastin.
And all that is a fancy way of saying:
noticeably smoother-looking skin
around the eyes. Similar results were
measured in another study on a
collagen-peptide drink.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
minimize the damage; she likes Colorescience (in other words: zero, nada, nothing else), they
Even Up Clinical Pigment Perfector SPF 50, ended up with clinically measured improvement
which has a marine extract called venuceane. in mottled skin tone (by 52 percent), texture (by
Its one of the few ingredients that keeps skin 40 percent), and clarity (by 41 percent). And the
cool for an extended period of time, says self-reported results were even stronger, which
Herschthal. (Studies suggest that applying it means those numbers translated to younger-
twice daily regulates skin temperature.) We looking skin. Its some of the best evidence yet
also like running the metal ReFa S Carat roller that sunscreen doesnt just prevent aging; it
over skin for a temporary cooling effect. may actually reverse it.
AN
AMERICAN
ARKAN ZAKHAROV/CONTOUR STYLE/GETTY IMAGES
IN PARIS
Far from the Arc de Triomphe
and miles off the Champs-lyses,
Jessica Chia discovers Pariss
best-kept beauty secrets.
Parisian
indulgence comes
in many forms.
T
Think its pretty from the
ground? Theres a
champagne bar at the top. ake it to a pharmacist. Five words
that I had been assured would make
me French. Or at least give me a
French complexion. I had only been in
Paris for three days, and I had already
been given a piece of paper by a
local facialist along with this directive.
Which is what landed me in this pharmacie in
the 2nd arrondissement handing the now-rumpled
piece of paper to the woman behind the counter.
She nodded. I nodded back. (I had no idea why
I was nodding, but it felt like the thing to do.) She
disappeared into the back and re-emerged
with a box. Granions de Manganse. French for
30 Ampoules of Magnesium That Will Give You
the Most Amazing Skin of Your Life, Self-
Acceptance, and Very Likely, Even a Raise and
Maybe a Corner Office.
Is it possible that the key to that elusive quality
known as French beauty was hidden in an
ampoule? In a word: non. See, I was in Paris, at
least partly, to discover real French beauty, not the
kind that you can order on Amazon Prime, and
while the ampoules were enticing, French beauty
is more involved than anyone wants to admit.
I was after the vials and jars, the treatments and
fragrances, that rarely make it inside our borders,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ARKAN ZAKHAROV/CONTOUR STYLE/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF DELPHINE COURTEILLE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
that French women protect as fiercely as the
recipe for a perfect croque monsieur. Just being
in a pharmacie, the kind you spell with an ie,
made me feel closer to unlocking that secret.
RETOUCHING
IN
REAL LIFE
1 KIT. 3 STEPS.
Confused about color correcting? Dont stress.
With Maybelline Master Camo Color
Correcting Kit, you can get sele-ready
in 3 simple steps!
B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ARKAN ZAKHAROV/CONTOUR STYLE; MELANIE LANDSMAN; RON KOEBERER/GETTY IMAGES
a sink away from model Natalia Vodianova. See hairstylist
Delphine Courteille at Le Studio 34 for choppy, brow-
skimming French-girl bangs like Damas has (go Google
Image her, but be forewarned that youll want to
book an appointmentand a plane ticketon the spot).
Christophe-robin.com and delphinecourteille.com
The Tuileries Garden
Nails: COLORFOREVER OBERKAMPF
When you schedule an appointment at Oberkampf, follow
Fine Dining
Michelsons guidelines for fitting in. No nail art or
embellishments, no crazy nail shapes. Just a wash of color
on short, round nails. Colorforever.com
Dinner: LE MARY CELESTE AND
Workout: LE KLAY
HTEL COSTES
Its not immediately apparent, amid the low tables and
Perch on a stool at Mary Celestes velvet couches in the members-only lounge, that this
circular bar for a savory and sweet is actually a gym. Wear yoga pants and a slouchy top, and
squash salad and the perfect vantage chat with a workout buddy between sets or while on
point for people-watching. Make the treadmill. Klay.fr
a reservation at Htel Costes if youd
rather spy visiting celebrities: Drink: LE WOOD
Bella Hadid in the far corner, model If you happened to befriend a Parisian news anchor
Liu Wen and friends to your left. and criminal lawyer, they would invite you for a weekday
Quixotic-projects.com/venue/ nightcap here. And you would find it exactly like your
mary-celeste and hotelcostes.com mixology bar at home, only much more charming in French.
1 Place de Thorigny, 33-1-42-71-39-08
Breakfast: CLAUS PARIS
If youre really attempting Parisian- Snack: CARETTE
ness, order exactly this: un pain au Head here to top up if its been more than a few hours
chocolat et un caf crme. If your since youve had a buttery carbohydrate. No one is
stomach can no longer be satisfied allergic to gluten here, Michelson says, wryly.
with a sole croissant for breakfast, eat Carette-paris.fr
at the sit-down restaurant, where the Shop: LA MODE VINTAGE AND THE AZZEDINE ALAA
fruit-topped muffins and thick slices SECRET OUTLET
of bread piled with egg and cheese Browse the former for vintage Yves Saint Laurent and
will satisfy your Instagram followers Courrges, then tell your cab driver to take you to 18 Rue
and your hunger in equal measure. de la Verrerie so you can say you know the best place
Clausparis.com to buy Alaa. La-mode-vintage.com
The
Low-Maintenance
LOW MAINTENANCE
used to mean, well, just that.
MYTH
Now theres a new breed of
low-maintenance woman.
And SURE, she can say it
only takes her A FEW
MINUTES to get readybut
thats not counting the
standing appointments, the
LASER RESURFACING,
the LASH EXTENSIONS,
and the KERATIN
TREATMENTS. Liana
Schaffner explores the
new phenomenon of bare-
T
faced, air-dried, yet still
IMPECCABLE beauty.
he goal of waking up
and looking flawless
is so elusive, theres
a fairy tale devoted to it.
In Sleeping Beauty,
a princess emerges from
a century of slumber,
exuding so much loveliness that a
total stranger falls in love with her
MILES ALDRIDGE/TRUNK ARCHIVE
VALUE
And how do you project an aura of
sweet repose when youre rocking a
JUDGMENTS
stress-induced zit? (Or two. Fine,
three.) Throw in the fact that most
women would honestly prefer an
uninterrupted nap to an unsolicited
kiss and this classic fantasy starts to
veer into parody. That said, our
The low-maintenance illusion doesnt
present-day notions of effortless come cheap. Heres what itll cost you,
beauty provoke satire, too. Amy
Schumers viral skit Girl, You Dont
on average, in both time and money.
Need Makeup hilariously insists
that all we need to look beautiful in
$650- $1,600
BONDED HAIR EXTENSIONS
the morning is our inner natural
Wefts of human hair fused to your
glowplus tons of product. And
own using heat or vibration
shortly after Beyonc declared,
Takes: One to three hours
I woke up like this in her feminist
A
Lasts for: Three to four months
anthem Flawless, Lena Dunham
$1,062
suggested that the song referred
to an impressive case of bed head. NONABLATIVE LASER RESURFACING
Around-the-clock perfection has (like Clear + Brilliant)
always been regarded as a castle Lasers that smooth skin and even tone
in the air. Takes: 25 minutes
Lasts for: Two to six months
$35
Until now.
GEL MANICURE
Polish whose molecules form
polymers under UV or LED light
for a chip-proof finish
Takes: One hour
Lasts for: Up to two weeks
$60- $500
investing in pricey beauty LASH EXTENSIONS
treatments that allow them to roll False lashes glued (one by one)
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: TODD HUFFMAN; COURTESY OF PAINTBOX; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)
out of bed and breeze through their on top of your own
morning routines. The approach Takes: 90 to 120 minutes
requires regular visits to salons and Lasts for: One to two months
doctors officesbut it does
eliminate the daily tasks of penciling
in brows, extending lashes, styling
$450- $1,200
MICROBLADING
hair, painting nails, and breathing
Tiny needles used to tattoo individual
fresh life into dull complexions. For
insight into whats driving this trend, hair strokes onto brows
just consider that exhaustive list. Takes: Two hours
$350
In the grip of a tight schedule, Lasts for: 12 to 18 months
its easy to interpret any service that
ultimately saves time and energy
as a necessity rather than a luxury. KERATIN TREATMENT
Thats why these treatments, A chemical process involving
once reserved for celebrities and heatand sometimes
special occasions, are becoming formaldehyde (a known
mainstream affairs. Even women carcinogen)that smooths hair
who dont earn exorbitant salaries Takes: Up to four hours
or have tons of disposable cash are Lasts for: Two to five months
committing to them, prioritizing
convenience over cost. Theres the
$15- $35
full-time babysitter who invests
in weekly blowouts, the executive BROW AND LASH TINTING
Vegetable dye that darkens hair
by a shade or two
Takes: Less than 15 minutes
Lasts for: Two to four weeks
MONDAY
Rethink your cleanser. A face
wash that tingles may feel
refreshing, but its probably not
doing much for your skins
dewiness. Switch to a creamy
formula that contains a humectant,
like glycerin (in Dior Hydra Life
Lotion to Foam Fresh Cleanser,
below). If youre in a rush, reach for
a cotton pad soaked in micellar
water; itll wipe away dirt without
causing dryness. Try the formulas
from Simple and Garnier.
TUESDAY
Toss your grainy scrub. It may get
rid of rough patches temporarily,
but itll make your skin even drier
SEE the
and flakier in the long run, says
Joshua Zeichner, the director of
cosmetic and clinical research in
dermatology at Mount Sinai
Hospital in New York City.
Instead, pick up a sugar-based CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: OLIVIA FROLICH; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)
version, such as Ole
LIGHT
Henriksen Moment of Truth
2-in-1 Polishing Sugar
Mask (above). It dissolves
as you massage it in,
making it a very gentle
option. Also, consider an
alpha hydroxy acid peel
to clean out pores and
stimulate the enzymes
responsible for cell
turnover. Lancmes new
Glowing skin isnt just for people too Visionnaire Crescendo
young to vote or the cheaters who drag the Progressive Night Peel is
brightness slider to the right. The key to a one-month peel system
that revs up from gentle
glowing skin is eating right, sleeping
fruit acids to more
well, and of course, seven days worth of intense glycolic acid. You
exactly the right skin care. By Lexi Novak can do it a couple of
times a year for a refresh.
WEDNESDAY
Face oils. Embrace them. As of today.
in (from top) Rose,
Golden, and Ice
making it more radiant. Plus theyre,
you know, oils, so they leave a little
gleam of their own. And if you have
naturally oily skin, face oils actually
To make
help regulate sebum production so
youre more glow-y than greasy. Layer
your face
one (like Lumene Sisu Urban Antidotes
Recover & Protect Facial Oil) under
look like its
your regular moisturizer. For extra
credit, try makeup artist Tom
Pecheuxs trick: Dip your Illuminator) just along the GLOWING
foundation-covered brush in a
few drops of oil before
buffing it over the skin. It
cheekbones and jawline with her
palms. While youre dialing back,
dont rub a BB cream or tinted FROM
wont look like you have any
makeup on, he says.
moisturizer all over the place, either.
Focus on the temples, cheekbones,
and bridge of the nose. If certain WITHIN,
THURSDAY
Add retinol to your pre-bed
areas need extra coverage, use a
damp sponge to dab them with dab a peach
operation. If youve missed
the praise weve heaped on
concealer. And when youre done
with all that, treat yourself (and your
skin) to a coffee (or three): A recent
cream blush
this ingredient over the
past, oh, 26 years, well
study in the International Journal
of Dermatology found that women
across the
recap: Retinol increases
collagen production, firms
who drank an average of three cups
of coffee a day had significantly apples of your
skin, and evens out tone
and texture, which makes it
basically the best, most
fewer skin-dulling age spots than
those who drank the least. cheeks.
glow-inducing thing ever.
Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle SATURDAY
Now add a little color. To make your
Repair Regenerating Cream
works like a prescription retinoid but is face look like its glowing from within,
less likely to cause irritation. dab a peach cream blush across the
apples of your cheeks, then blend it
FRIDAY
Highlightwithin reason. People
along your cheekbones and tap
the excess from your fingers into the
crease in your upper lids, says
make the mistake of putting makeup artist Hung Vanngo. Dullness
illuminating powders or creams all may still creep in around 3 P.M.but
over their face, but that will make you dont double down on blush. Take a
look like a disco ball, says makeup few deep breaths, inhaling for five
artist Kate Lee. She presses a mildly counts and exhaling for seven. Youll
shimmery formula (we like LOral get oxygen flowing to bring color
Paris True Match Lumi Liquid Glow to your skin, says Ava Shamban, a
dermatologist in Los Angeles.
SUNDAY
Today you can chill. No, really.
Neutrogena
Rapid Wrinkle
Repair
If youre truly committed to the Regenerating
Cream
brightening cause, begin your days
(starting with this one) by running an
ice cube over your face (or at least
splashing it with cold water). The
temperature change will release
Lancme
heat-shock proteins, a cellular response
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (4)
The
GreenScientists are just beginning to
understand the benefits of green
food, and what theyre learning
will surprise you. Now rethink that
Party
new juicer and listen up.
By Ramona Emerson
civilization. But think about the Leafies. news for anyone who thought cognitive vegetable, the more nutritious it is
Theres a reason youve never read a decline was due to unlucky genes. specifically, its richer in carotenoids.
disparaging word about them. Research When Martha Clare Morris, a nutritional Among other benefits, carotenoids have
has shown, over and over again, that epidemiologist at Rush University been found to accumulate in the eyes
theres practically no anatomical system Medical Center in Chicago, tracked the and prevent macular degeneration,
that doesnt benefit from more kale, eating habits and brain health of almost a leading cause of blindness. While kale
1,000 adults over five years, she found may have the best PR team in the flora
that those who ate one to two servings
of green leafy vegetables per day had
the mental abilities of someone 11 years
FACE
conducted by the Centers for Disease pieces of Wonder Bread and pouring
Control and Prevention, its not even green juice on top. These juices
close to the healthiest green. In fact, will often advertise that they do not
its less nutrient-dense than romaine have added sugar, but of course,
lettuce. Are you done screaming pineapple or apple juice has plenty of
Plants
into the void? The researchers looked sugar on its own. If you must have
at how much of 17 different nutrients, your greens liquefied, doctors
including vitamins B, C, and K, were recommend smoothies way over
in a bunch of powerhouse foods. juices. I would rather have the whole
Then they ranked the foods in terms of vegetable blended as opposed to
nutrient density. The big winner was having a juice that is filtered, says We know that what you eat
watercress, which has an average of Eric Rimm, a professor at Harvards affects how you look. Studies
100 percent of the daily value of each T. H. Chan School of Public Health. have shown that diets that
nutrient per 100 grams. Spinach Not only are you losing much are high in antioxidants and
came in fifth with about 86 percent, of the fiber, but probably also some low in sugar and fat are
and poor kale was way down on the of the micronutrients and other associated with fewer wrinkles,
list with 49 percent. According to compounds. less sun-induced skin damage,
all the experts I spoke to, this doesnt and even reduced acne. But
mean we should shun kalethe GREEN what about bypassing the
study didnt measure nutrients like
carotenoids and flavonoids, in which SUPPLEMENTS whole eating part and rubbing
kale right on your face?
kale is particularly high. But we should This idea that the whole is greater Thats exactly what companies
cover our bases by eating a variety of than the sum of its parts is also like Bobbi Brown, Pacifica,
greens, since theyre basically all why green supplements are not and Youth to the People are
good for you. Even lowly iceberg recommended. There have been hoping youll do with their new
lettuce was ranked above almost several clinical trials testing leafy-green-infused serums,
every fruit on the list. The extreme supplements where they found that moisturizers, masks, and
complexity of food and how it affects even if you grind up watercress or cleansers. The companies
our bodies is why its hard to get a kale, supplements have either not claim that antioxidants found
simple answer on whether greens that much of an effect or no effect in kale, spinach, and Brussels
should be eaten cooked or raw. While at all, says Willette. In fact, green- sprouts will make your skin
cooking at low heat can break down food supplements might even be taut, glow-y, and generally
cell walls and make nutrients easier for bad for you. While lutein, a type of youthful. The bottom line from
the body to absorb, many nutrients, carotenoid, has been shown to slow dermatologists: Vitamin C
especially water-soluble ones, like the thickening of arteries, taking and vitamin E have been used
vitamin C, are lost during cooking. carotenoids in supplement form not in skin care forever. Whether
Theres no simple rule, says Morris. only doesnt reduce heart disease the nutrients come from kale
I recommend that people try both. but in some cases increases heart- or something else, they have
related complications. the same effect, says Elizabeth
JUICES VERSUS To bastardize Michael Pollan:
Eat greens, all kinds, cooked and
Hale, a clinical associate
TECH IT
UP A
NOTCH
Welcome to a new era of skin care: Devices that plug in, light up, spin
around, and possibly scare your dog (more on that in a second). We enlisted
real women and top dermatologists to flip on nine of the latest options
and report back on whether they make good on their line-smoothing, face-
firming, acne-banishing claims. By Katie Becker
PHOTOGRAPHED BY GRANT CORNETT
TEST DRIVE
THE FACE
LAYING IT ON THICK
Are you always cutting corners on your multipart layering routine? Well, theres a device for that.
Take a 20-question assessment and Nu Skin uses your answers to generate a customized, five-step
anti-aging regimen. But heres where it addresses your laziness: The regimen arrives in a preloaded
device, the AgeLoc Me ($480). The machineit looks like a sleek, high-tech soap dispenser and
is about a foot tallsits on your bathroom counter. With the press of a button, it delivers a single
predosed pump of all your recommended serums and creamsa full routine mixed into one dollop.
The results: hydrated skin and a pleasantly surprised sensitive-skinned tester. Just keep in mind
that if youre always running around, this system isnt remotely travel-friendly. KATHLEEN SUICO
THE
WRINKLE
GETTING
INTO EYE
GEAR
If you hate crows-feet
(or love RoboCop), man,
have we got news for you:
The new Dr. Dennis Gross
Skincare SpectraLite
EyeCare Pro ($159) shines
collagen-boosting red and
amber LED lights around
your eyes and between your
browsand makes you
look like a cyborg. We know
that red light can reduce
inflammation in the skin and
Forty-one
women of color
share stories
about diversity,
inclusion, and
the politics
of skin color
in beauty.
Reporting by Lindsy Van Gelder
and Elizabeth Siegel
Photographed by
Patrick Demarchelier
Left, on Dilone: Cotton
top and pants by Stella
McCartney. Earrings by
Georgina Trevino
Contemporary Jewelry and
Dilones own. Center, on
Imaan Hammam: Cotton top
and skirt by Sonia Rykiel.
Earrings by We Who Prey and
Hammams own. Right, on
Aamito Lagum: Cotton-blend
top by Isabel Marant. Cotton
pants by Stella McCartney.
Earring by Tibi. Makeup colors,
on all: Sourcil Styler brow gel in
3, Click & Glow Highlighting
Skin Fluid in Lumires dOr, and
Juicy Shaker in Piece of Cake
by Lancme. These pages:
Hair, Ward; makeup, Romy
Soleimani; manicure, Donna D.
Prop stylist: Cristina Forestieri.
Fashion stylist: Laura Ferrara.
Details, see Shopping Guide.
of my skin. It was only outside the
comforts of home that the world began
to challenge those ideals. I took an
BETHANN HARDISON,* African-American studies class at
Northwestern where we explored people there look like? And she said,
founder, Bethann They look like the show you watch, Full
colorism; it was the first time I could
Management Co. House. So I assumed that when I would
put a name to feeling too light in the
I arranged a town hall meeting in 2007. black community, too mixed in the arrive in Canada, I would turn into a
The room was packed. There were white community. For castings, I was white blonde. And I was horrified when
editors, stylists, model-agency owners labeled ethnically ambiguous. Was I I got to the airport and I was still brown.
and I sat in front of them and talked Latina? Sephardic? Exotic Caucasian? I just couldnt understand that different
about what I thought was inappropriate Add the freckles to the mix and it colors coexist. I think Ive come a long
behavior. [Models of color] were being created quite the conundrum. To this way from that nine-year-old girl who
told, Sorry, no blacks, no ethnics. day, my pet peeve is when my skin wanted to trade in her brown skin for
Newspapers started writing articles tone is changed and my freckles are white. I love what my brown skin looks
about Is there racism in fashion? And airbrushed out of a photo shoot. For all like and what it represents. And there
it changed. Im sorry, no blacks, no my freckle-faced friends out there, I will are many times Im fully unaware of my
ethnics has never been said again. share with you something my dad told skin. The perfect example is Im talking
me when I was younger: A face without to somebody, and they would look
at me and say, So how do they do that
PADMA LAKSHMI, freckles is a night without stars.
in India? I say, Im not sure. Im from
author, actress, and executive Pakistan. But I can Google it for you and
producer, Top Chef ZAZIE BEETZ, find out. That always creates such an
My skin is a map of my life. Before actress, Atlanta and Slice awkward moment, but I think awkward
high school, I lived in a white suburb My father is German; my mother is moments are not bad; they push us to
of Los Angeles where there were African-American. Growing up, I confront our prejudices. Uncomfortable
so few Indians that they didnt even visited my grandparents in Berlin a lot. as it is to hear Oh, you speak English
know the correct slurs. They called I would not see any other person of really good for a brown lady, it really
me the N-word or Blackie. For a long color for three weeks. People would tells me that people have these ideas
time I hated my skin color. Even in stare. They would say things like Oh, but theres no healthy space to ask
India, theres a complicated history. you look like chocolateI want to these things. We lack basic vocab
My grandmother discouraged us from eat you up! Ive been to gatherings about understanding our differences.
going in the sun; she didnt want us where people would say, She has so Now I love walking into a room and I
to be dark. We were only allowed to much race in her or would use the dont look like everyone else. I hope
play outside after 4:30. There was a word n*****or the German term that love for my skin Ive developed as
cosmetics line called Fair & Lovely neger. And I would be like, Who are an adult I can pass on to my kids.
that says it all. [And] when I started to you talking to? I feel German, I speak
work as a model, people would on German, [but] I dont look German.
BALANDA ATIS,
manager, LOrals
Global Women of Color Lab
[My daughter] told me that some boy and U.S. Liquid Face Lab
said she was white, not Indian, and Up until several years ago, the primary
target for most cosmetics companies
shouldnt wear a bindi. I told her to tell was the Caucasian consumer. But the
population has changed quite a bit,
him shes brown on the inside. and businesses have had to come up
with shades for people of medium to
dark skin. I was given the opportunity
occasion say things to me like Youre In the United States, if youre African- to measure skin tones. We noticed that
so pretty for being an Indian. I have a American, it can be assumed that your there was an area of violet in darker
seven-year-old daughter who is very family has been here for generations. skin tones that had not been
fair. Once she told me that some boy In Europe, colonialism is much more understood in the past. We ended up
said to her she was white, not Indian, alive and its assumed youre from incorporating ultramarine blue, which
and shouldnt wear a bindi. I told her Nigeria or Senegal. I would have these takes you deeper but not necessarily
to tell him shes brown on the inside. conversations like Where is your blacker. I like to say that theres a new
mother from? Brooklyn. No, but skin tone born every day.
where is she from? I would respond,
MEGHAN MARKLE, We dont know, since we cant trace
actress, Suits our roots beyond North Carolina.
SUSAN C. TAYLOR,
I have the most vivid memories of Slavery has erased our ability to find dermatologist and associate
being seven years old and my mom our origins. We have been here as professor of dermatology at
picking me up from my grandmothers long as some of the first immigrants. University of Pennsylvania
house. There were the three of us, Perelman School of Medicine
a family tree in an ombr of mocha
next to the caramel complexion of my HABIBA NOSHEEN, We still have a ways to go in terms of
skin care, which is mostly geared
mom and light-skinned, freckled me. journalist, The Fifth Estate
toward anti-aging. Women of color
I remember the sense of belonging, I was born in Pakistan, and when my have more melanin than Caucasian
having nothing to do with the color mother told me we were moving to
Canada, I asked her, What do the
DASCHA POLANCO,
actress, Orange Is
the New Black
Its very difficult to get foundation that
matches my skin. And Im all for the
contouring stuff, but I like to look like
myself. I dont have a thin nose. You can
see my African features, so I like to
embrace these things as opposed to
covering them.
GRACE LEE,
Maybelline New York
makeup artist
I was born in Korea, but I came to
Canada when I was six months old. Im
Canadian. From the time I was six or
seven, I was obsessed with beauty. My
dolls had eyeliner and extra eyelashes.
I cut all my friends hair and did their
prom makeup. When I was at
university, I got a part-time job working
at a M.A.C. counter. One day I did this
womans makeup, and afterward she
said to me, You must be so proud of
yourselfyour English is superb! I was
speechless. The other thing growing
up was people asking me if I was
related to Bruce Lee. Is he the only
Asian person you know? More makeup
artists now know how to do Asian eyes.
The fake-crease thing drives me to
drink. Our eyes have monolidstheyre
flat! Why are you trying to make us look
like white people?
HEATHER
WOOLERY-LLOYD,
dermatologist and director
of Ethnic Skin Care at the
University of Miami Miller
School of Medicine
I was the only black child in nearly
every class from kindergarten
through college. I was very academic.
I cared about SAT scores. I was a
bookworm. I didnt develop any major
insecuritiesexcept about swimming.
at school featured white children
and an animal, or animals. Fresh Off
My hair! Swim parties were not a
the Boat is the first television show led
simple thing. I went to school with surpass limits given to me by others....
by [an] Asian-American [family] in
the model Niki Taylor. She was an Ive always known I have beautiful skin
over 20 years. Id always been in the
exceptionally kind person, and one because my dad has amazing skin and
supporting role, the best friend or
day when I had won some award, she I look like him. You know, diversity in
the assistant to the white person. And
congratulated me and told me how Hollywood is on its way to being
I was grateful. But once I was in
lucky I was. I remember thinking, embraced. But we still have a long
the lead role and other people started
You are on four magazine covers this way to go. I think theres something
making a big deal out of it, I realized
month, including the Seventeen that happened in which its become
I was previously blind to it.
magazine thats in my backpack. But cool to have darker skin.
I always had my identity as a student.
African-Americans are really
underrepresented in dermatology. I
JEANINE DOWNIE, TESSA THOMPSON,
felt this huge responsibility to learn dermatologist in Montclair, actress, Westworld and
everything there was to know about New Jersey Annihilation
women of color. Many black women African-Americans and Latinos lose I think about the civil rights
who are dealing with embarrassing elasticitywe sag where Caucasians movementyou couldnt organize
issues, like hair loss, do not want to wrinkle. People dont realize that [with] Twitter, Instagram, and text
come in and take off their wig for a skin of color needs sunscreen, and messaging. Now we have so much
doctor who isnt an African-American that gets on my last nerve. Bob Marley access to information [and] each
woman. During my residency, I died of melanoma! Skin cancer is other. Its a wonderful time for
specifically took advantage of underdiagnosed among people of women who [are] coming forth and
every opportunity to learn about
dermatologic conditions in skin
of color, because I knew when I
completed my training that patients Hollywood has an idea of what...
were going to seek my expertise.
Latina looks like, and I didnt fit into that
DEWANDA WISE, box, so I had to create my own box.
actress, Shots Fired and
Underground
Being a chocolate-black girl, theres color in part because people dont being like, This is who I am, and its
always this conversation about what it think its a problem. I do think beautiful. When youre a black
means to live in a duality. I went to companies understand that dollars are person in this country, some things
all-white schools. My differences were coming from all ethnic markets, not you dont mean to be political
always really kind of celebrated. I didnt just Caucasians, [but] were still statements become political
grow up teasedI was homecoming peripheral in ads. Id give it a Cbefore statements. Youre just saying, I
queen. I didnt hit the glass ceiling until I would have given them an F. wont allow how anyone else talks
I was starting to audition. And even about standards for beauty to disrupt
then, we all have our privilegesI have the way I want to live my life.
a pretty face. I still found myself being
LILLY SINGH,
in the same conversations as women vlogger and author, How to Be a
who look nothing like me. What I Bawse (Random House) AJA NAOMI KING,
find inspiring now is differences are The last time someone made me feel actress, How to Get Away
being celebrated. Theres this earnest bad about my skin would be every With Murder
exploration of what it means to be single comment I get about my face I was afraid of the darkness of my
beautiful. The queen mother of makeup not matching my neck. Its skin. I believed I had to be celebrated
chocolate girls is Viola [Davis]. In something I get on YouTube. Maybe if for my intelligence and my sense of
Hollywood everyone has a type. If more foundation matched my skin humor. Those could be the beautiful
youre blonde in your 20s, they expect tone, haters would slow their roll. things about me since my skin
you to be ditzy. And Viola was like, couldnt. I remember in junior high
OK, this is the space that Im placed in, having a beach day with my family and
but its my job to subvert your
EVA LONGORIA, going to school the next day. Someone
expectations. Between her and Kerry
actress, Lowriders; director; in my class exclaimed shock at my
[Washington] opening the doors...I producer; and activist appearance. She didnt know black
wouldnt be on Shes Gotta Have It now I remember growing up in Texas not people could tan. The look on her face
if it werent for those women. speaking Spanish and yet feeling stuck with me. For years, I wanted to
as Latin as can bekind of being a avoid direct sunlight. The comments
fish out of water. It was definitely hard you hear as a child stick with you. [I
CONSTANCE WU, for people to just assume youre one was] afraid of photos in dark rooms
actress, Fresh Off the Boat thing, but youre not just that one because you know no one will be able
thing. That was something to navigate to see you in the picture and [people]
My family is Chinese-Taiwanese. Im
early on in Hollywood. Because will make fun of you. [I feared] walking
from Richmond, Virginia. The
Hollywood has an idea of what they into a room that has a black wall and
community in which I grew up was
think Latina looks like, and I didnt fit
pretty white. The storybooks you got
into that box, so I had to create my
own box. I live my life trying to
136
got out of my country [Senegal]. I was
hearing someone remark about how in Italy on vacation, and I saw my
youve disappeared. You try to avoid reflection in a mirror. I saw how
these situations so youre not in a unique my skin was and why people
position to act like you dont care or stop me on the street to ask about it. at the table has opened up the
[you] make fun of the darkness of I started falling in love with it. dialogue on inclusion and diversity.
your skin before someone else does We all should be celebrated. We all
so that maybe it will sting less. It has deserve a seat at the table.
been a process of self-love to embrace
SASHEER ZAMADA
the beauty of every single drop that
comedian and Saturday Night
makes up the richness that is my Live cast member HANNAH BRONFMAN,
beautiful brown skin. If you learn When I was younger, a lot of older DJ and founder of HBFIT TV,
anything in life, learn to love yourself. black people would tell me, Dont a beauty and fitness website
There is no amount of makeup or go outside for too long because you My mother is an African-American
skin-care products that will make you dont want to get darker. When I from the South Side of Chicago who
love yourself. got older, I realized it was passed- married a white guy in 1978. She was
down colorism. What the black hyperaware of racism and made me
community has experienced has been aware of that. I went to a private girls
MISHA GREEN, absorbed. We kind of police each school where I was one out of five girls
cocreator, writer, and other. My mom grew up in Arkansas in the class who looked like me. I really
producer, Underground during the civil rights movement. first encountered it when I went to
My skin is a shade darker than Shes one of seven kids, and shes one dance class at Alvin Ailey with girls who
caramel, with a speckle of chicken pox of the darker-skinned kids in her were a lot darker. Theyd tease me that I
scars that I tried to pass off as family. She said that her mom would didnt have rhythm. When I was 12, I
freckles in middle school. Spending treat the lighter-skinned kids better. had a falling out with a friend. She
summers in the South growing up, I My grandma absorbed whatever called me the N-word. The fact is that
was always aware of colorism in the messages she was getting in the stuff is taught. African-Americans are
black community, but it wasnt really world: If you are light as a paper bag still underserved by cosmetics. Ive
until I attended an all-white middle or if you have straighter hair, you will been using a line called Wander, by
school that I encountered it. I get treated better. Thankfully, my Lindsay Ellingsona blue-eyed white
remember riding the bus and one of mom didnt pass any of that energy to girl. Their colors are great.
my classmates was turned around in me. [Being on Saturday Night Live,]
her seat staring at me. I asked why. Ive gotten some really nice comments
She wanted to know what I was mixed from other black people who say, Its
TAMIKA MALLORY,
with. She had never seen such a pretty so nice to see a woman of color who activist, national cochair
black girl, so she assumed I must be looks like me on TV. I am darker than a of the Womens March on
mixed with something. At the time, I lot of women who are on TV, and my Washington, and founder
was too offended to answer. But since hair is natural. To a lot of people, its of Mallory Consulting
then, I have been asked what Im mixed important to see me on TV, and Im so When I was in elementary school,
with too many times to count, and happy to be there and do that. I lived in a community that was
each time I am met with skepticism predominantly black and Latino. The
when I reply that I am black. I continue
by informing the misinformedthe
JESSICA ALBA, light skindark skin issue was very
prevalent. The Latino [kids were] the
African diaspora comes in many hues;
actress and founder of
cool kids, while the black kids were sort
all of them are beautiful. the Honest Company and of looked down on. It definitely created
Honest Beauty insecurities. Today, I am 100 percent
Its important for [my daughters] to comfortable in my skin. Each one of us
LIU WEN, know that beauty comes in all shapes has to be comfortable in our skin. Thats
model and sizes and colors, to celebrate what will change the world. There is
I have the skin of a Chinese woman. diversity and point out people who some young girl who is watching, who
It has a healthy color and glow. My have [a] different tone, or theyre has darker skin, who is going to be
skins beauty is a gift from my parents. covered in beautiful freckles, or they encouraged by your confidence, your
As a child, I did not consider this too have tight curls or long waves. All of ability to walk in your skin. [The
much, but after I started modeling its beautiful. Girls who choose to wear Womens March] was a great display of
internationally, people would boys clothes, who dont want to put what this country really looks like. Now
compliment me on my skin. Only then on a face of makeup, who want to we are going to have to be committed
did I appreciate this gift. It doesnt shave their headsthats beautiful. to resistance. Resistance looks like the
matter where you come from or What makes someone beautiful is the National Park Service tweeting about
who you arealways cherish yourself. power of owning who they are, and climate change regardless of whether
Be proud of your heritage. confidence, being kind, having somebody is going to lose their job.
compassion. Those types of themes Resistance looks like not accepting
are what I really try to nail into my alternative facts. Resistance looks like
KHOUDIA DIOP, girls heads. The only way that any of registering to vote. If you woke up after
model and diversity and us is going to advance is if we have a the election feeling disparaged,
anti-bullying advocate generation of people who arent living threatened, welcome to the reality that
My skin is dark and glows. It almost with prejudices about standards of black people have been dealing with
seems blue, and its supersoft. I beauty. I think an African-American
realized my color is beautiful when I president and First Lady really helped.
[And] having more women have a seat
DILONE,
model
I dont think people realize just how
much Latinas vary in skin tone. I have
Colombian and Dominican friends
who are superdark and others
who have blonde hair and blue
eyes. We are kind of stepping
away from thinking this is what
someone Latin should look
like, with a light skin tone and
big butts. Its celebrated
more now than in the past,
just how different Latin
women are. My role model
growing up was Selena. I
love her music, what she
represented, her sexiness.
And just being herself. She
wasnt trying to conform to
something else.
139
AAMITO
LAGUM,
model
Growing up in Uganda, I did
not fit into the ideal. I was too
dark. I was too tall. But I didnt
really notice I was black until
I came to the U.S. Here Im black,
whereas I was just a person in
Uganda. [Last year, there was a
close-up of Lagums lips on the M.A.C.
Instagram feed that triggered racist
remarks in the comments section.]
It wasnt that big a deal to mehaters
gonna hateand I was able to
brush it off. I posted back, My lips
are giving you sleepless nights.
I grew up loved by my family.
That love enabled me to love
what I saw in the mirror. I
learned to love my skin too
much to fit someone elses
script. It is the same love
that keeps me safe from
comments that would
otherwise offend me.
If youre good on
social media, youre
PROP STYLIST: JOJO LI.
gonna be successful.
The
ACNE
Epidemic
MORE WOMEN THAN EVER BEFORE ARE
DEALING WITH CHRONIC STUBBORN
BREAKOUTS. AND NO ONE REALLY KNOWS WHY
(WHICH IS ALMOST AS FRUSTRATING AS
THE PIMPLES THEMSELVES). BUT NOW MORE
RESEARCHERS THAN EVER ARE WORKING
ON FINDING A CURE (EVEN A VACCINE).
AND WHILE WE AWAIT THE FINDINGS OF THOSE
BRILLIANT SCIENTISTS, WEVE FOUND A FEW
IMMEDIATE PATHS TO CLEAR, FLAUNTABLE SKIN.
BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL
INEZ AND VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE
P
THE HORMONE FACTOR
If your acne is cystic and concentrated
around your jaw and mouth, your hormones
may be to blame. Because the Pill stops
the hormonal fluctuations that can bring on
those breakouts, its often a solution. And
icture a place where the white-sand beaches stretch for miles, if you started taking the Pill in your teens or
there are more palm trees than people, and no ones ever popped 20s, well, you may not even realize its
a pimple. Its called paradise. But also: Kitava. Its one of the helping keep your skin clear until you go off
islands that make up Papua New Guinea, and youll never find it and break out. Some women develop
concealer there, because no one who lives there gets breakouts. cystic acne for the first time only after they
Its a ginormous contrast to the rest of the world, and not just stop taking the Pill, says Jill M. Weinstein, an
because of the palm-tree-to-human ratio. Globally, 9.4 percent of attending dermatologist at Feinberg School
the population has acne. In the U.S., the percentage is even higher: of Medicine at Northwestern University.
About 50 million, or 15 percent, of us have clinically meaningful
acne; that could mean one pimple a month or chronic breakouts, The link between other forms of birth
says Joshua Zeichner, an acne specialist and director of cosmetic control and breakouts, however, isnt as
and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in clear-cut. Theres currently controversy
New York. And that number is risingat least in one group: The around IUDs and acne, says William
incidence of adult female acne is increasing every year, says James, a professor of dermatology at the
Zeichner. No one really knows why. University of Pennsylvania who has seen
Awesome. patients break out after switching from
But there are theories: It could be genetics; it could be the oral contraceptives to the semipermanent
kind of milk in your coffee; it could be stress. Were working device. Many IUDs output hormones,
more, sleeping less, and frantically refreshing glowing screens which could lead to acne flare-ups, but its
all day because, sweet Jesus, why hasnt that email come such a small amount of hormones
through already? And studies have shown (over and over) that that we dont know if those are causing
stress ups oil production in the skin. If you develop acne in acne or if its because youre losing
your 40s (and about 12 percent of women do), it could be from [the skin] benefits of oral contraceptives.
shifting hormone levels, says Zeichner. For a generation of Another pill with skin benefits is an
women prescribed the Pill at 16, struggling with breakouts in oral blood pressure medication called
their 30s and 40s could be the aftermath of going off oral spironolactone. Its undergoing a
contraceptives for the first time. Or maybe its evolution, says renaissance for acne treatment, says
Zeichner. We think of it as something that happened thousands James. It blocks the effects of androgen
of years ago, but our bodies are constantly evolving. [hormones] on oil glands. But its not
Currently, hes conducting a study in collaboration with the without potential side effects, such as
Mount Sinai genetics department to look for genes that are irregular periods. So companies are
overexpressed in patients with acne, he says. At the University of researching ways to control excess
California, San Diego, researchers are working with an antibody oil production (a sign of hormonal acne)
that could become an acne vaccine. And thats just the beginning. without influencing hormone levels.
All around the world, the race is on to find the cream or shot or The most promising, DRM01, is a topical
herbal tincture that will eradicate breakouts once and for all. drug that shuts off the enzymes
While theyre figuring it out, we can tell you how to clear up needed to make sebum. It could be
your skin right nowand if you want to grab a bikini and a one-way available in as little as two years.
ticket to a remote island in the South Pacific, well, that never hurts.
T
If salicylic acid creams dry you
out, Zeichner suggests looking
for the ingredient in a face
wash (like Bior Charcoal Acne
Clearing Cleanser): Leave it
HE BIG GUNS
WHEN 40 GREETED ANDREA FRANKLIN WITH HER FIRST-EVER
on for as long as it takes you to
sing the alphabet.
Retinoids. Theyre like pipe
cleaners for your skin, says
CYSTIC BREAKOUTS, SHE LEARNED A THING OR TWO ABOUT Zeichner. They minimize the
ISOTRETINOIN (THE DRUG FORMERLY KNOWN AS ACCUTANE). stickiness of dead cells so theyre
Im not saying I drink too much. What Im saying is that if I did drink too less likely to clog hair follicles
much, a little heads up would have been nice. and cause pimples. Differin gel,
Heres what they dont tell you right off the bat about isotretinoin: no with 0.1 percent adapalene,
drinking. The medicine stresses your liver. And alcohol stresses your liver. was recently approved by the
See where Im going with this? Three, four, maybe five months to glowing FDA for over-the-counter use.
skin also meant three, four, maybe five months staring at my tequila A doctor can prescribe tretinoin
collection with longing and nostalgia. My dining-room bar would become a or tazarotene. Combining
study in unrequited love. (Maybe cutting back wouldnt be the worst thing.) retinoids and benzoyl peroxide is
And yes, I have a dining-room bar. Im no college kid. Im a full-on also very effective because the
grown-up, and after a lifetime of pretty damn good skin, I was dealing with ingredients act in different ways,
near-constant cystic breakouts. For two plus years, I tried it all and finally says James, who likes the ratio
asked my dermatologist for the hardest of the hard stuff. in the prescription gel Epiduo.
Here are the other things you dont know about isotretinoin. Antibiotics. If your acne is
First: You will have to take a test every month. A blood testto assess cystic, persistent, or severe
that liver situationand a test test. You want blemish-free skin, youve gotta (15-plus pimples at once, but
multiple-choice your way there. The test test is to prove that you know whos counting?), oral antibiotics
the hazards of getting pregnant while on the drug. The hazards can best be can get it under control by
summed up as a cross between science fiction and straight-up horror. If decreasing inflammation and
you ever dont know the answer to a question, pick the one that you would killing some of the P. acnes on
see in a straight-to-video Tobe Hooper movie. You have to promise to use your skin, says Weinstein. But
two kinds of birth control, but feel free to add a third: abstinence. (Taking a just last year, the guidelines
pill wrapped in a picture of a pregnant woman slashed by a red line has a for this treatment changed. The
way of killing the mood anyway.) CDC found a significant portion
Secondly: Aquaphor. Cases of it. Isotretinoin shrinks your oil glands, of resistant bacteria was a result
and while youre on it, your skin will be all kinds of dry. of long-term antibiotic use,
Finally: In three, four, five months, sit the hell back and glow. Im which was common with acne
halfway there as I write this and already freaking radiant. In another patients, says Weinstein. Now
month, Ill be done, and I will be beaming like Venus. we prescribe oral antibiotics
I have just the Patrn for the occasion. for only 12 to 14 weeks.
INEZ AND VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE
L
EARNING MILKING IT
Cheesy pizza, salty frieswe
TOLERANCE
UNA LAMARCHE FIGURED OUT HOW TO ACCEPT HER SKIN
blamed our teenage acne on lots of
delicious greasiness, but the one
food thats likely sabotaging our
skin in adolescence and beyond is
FOR WHAT IT IS. IT ONLY TOOK HER 20 YEARS. surprising. A series of studies
As it does with most of its victims, acne descended on me in my show skim milk is most consistently
teens. Ive repressed the exact year (most photos have been ritually associated with acne, says James.
burned), but it was the mid-90s, when every white girl (like myself) Many speculate that its because
was rocking chalky foundation that fell somewhere on the color of skim milks sugar-to-protein
spectrum between the Pillsbury Doughboy and Brad Pitt in Interview ratio. So go back to putting
With the Vampire. Every morning I would apply this ghostly paint real cream in your coffee, but skip
to my pimples, only to find that by the end of school it had melted the mocha-caramel creamer.
offleaving me with a stark, humiliating two-tone look. A diet low in sugar and processed
When I got to college and fell in love with someone, I let him see foods seems to be best for your
everything but my actual face; I went to great lengths to wake up skin, says Zeichner. (One theory
first, run to the coed dorm bathroom, and fill in my spots. Once, on a why theres no acne in Kitava:
group camping trip, I feigned exhaustion, burrowed into my sleeping Theres also no junk food.) High-
bag, and missed out on hours of fun with my friends because I glycemic-index foods raise your
didnt have enough light to fix my makeup and I was worried that the glucose levels, spiking production
campfire would reveal the relief map running across my cheeks. of a growth factorIGF1that
It took me a long time to stop that nonsense. My skin eventually promotes breakouts, he says. And
calmed down, which helped. But at 36, I still stash benzoyl peroxide now that youre on a health kick:
in what should be my sexy drawer. And yes, of course, I lament the Eating fruits, vegetables, and fish
adolescent oil sheen that spreads across my very grown-up T-zone. more than three times a week
What I dont do anymore is wake up first, run to the bathroom, and try is associated with fewer breakouts,
to conceal my pimples. I will always long for a perfect complexion, according to a survey in the
but Im not willing to battle my own reflection forever in pursuit of Journal of the American Academy
that elusive, genetically implausible Moby Dick. of Dermatology. High-antioxidant
Maybe Im just lazy. Or maybe Im flaunting my whiteheads in diets tend to be better for your
defiance of the patriarchy like the combination-skinned feminist skin; we think its because theyre
I am! Mainly, though, Im tired of hiding. I want to greet the day with anti-inflammatory, says Doris
my shiny forehead and my blemished chin and say, proudlyto Day, a clinical associate professor
my husband, to Beyonc, to the world!You know what? Screw it. of dermatology at NYU Langone
I woke up like this. Medical Center.
35% OF WOMEN
IN THEIR 30S
HAVE ACNE.
The Future Is Clear If we had a crystal ball, wed be gazillionaires. Wed also see these:
the next generation of acne treatments.
A bacteria cure: Theres a type of virus called phagesand theyre everywhere, says Jenny Kim,
a professor of medicine, dermatology, and nutrition at the David Geffen School of Medicine at
UCLA. In cheese, in dirt, on your skin. They infect bacteria, and thats where things get interesting:
Different types of phages live off of different bacteria, and they can choose to kill their hosts,
says Kim, who is studying the phages that infect P. acnes bacteria specifically. If we can deliver them
to the skin effectively, she says, maybe we can find a cure for acne.
A vaccine: Yes, really. A shot is in the works that could make you immune to breakouts. We found
an antibody to a toxic protein that P. acnes bacteria secrete on skin, says Eric C. Huang, the projects
lead researcher at the University of California, San Diego. The protein is associated with the
inflammation that leads to acne. The first phase of clinical trials on patients, which could take one to
two years, will be under way soon.
A probiotic therapy: Feeding probiotics [good bacteria] sugars creates a ferment, says Huang, who
is also studying one such ferments ability to kill P. acnes before they cause breakouts. A topical gel that
pits your skins bacteria against one another could be developed soon.
Power
Higher
Theyre teased with chinoiserie, draped in
silk, and framed by leather. Spring is
sending one very clear message: Hemlines
are going upand legs are coming out.
EASTERN STANDARD
Left, on Sasha Kichigina:
Polyester dress by
Marc Jacobs. Earrings by
Adornmonde. Right, on
Alanna Arrington: Polyester
dress by Marc Jacobs.
Makeup colors, on both:
Kate Sculpting palette
in Coral Glow and Lasting
Finish by Kate Lipstick
in Rock N Roll Nude
by Rimmel London. These
pages: Hair, Peter Gray;
makeup, Kristi Matamoros;
manicure, Sheril Bailey.
Fashion editor: Rachael
Wang. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
WRAP PARTY
Left: Silk dress by
Diane von Furstenberg.
Earrings by Kamryn
Dame. Right: Silk
jumpsuit by Diane von
Furstenberg. Silver
necklace by Ambush.
Makeup colors, on both:
Gimme Brow in 5 and
Theyre Real Lipstick &
Liner in Lusty Rose
by Benefit. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
SKIRT STRONG
Left: Viscose top and
leather skirt by Cline.
Leather boots by
Marc Jacobs. Earrings
by Jennifer Fisher.
Right: Cotton top by
Adam Lippes. Vinyl
skirt by Sonia Rykiel.
Python boots by Marc
Jacobs. On both:
Shimmer Strips eye-
shadow palette in Bronze
Nude by Physicians
Formula. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
Think of the shortest hemline
in your closet. Hell, think of the
shortest hemline in your past.
Now lop off a good four inches.
Welcome to spring, people.
Its no accident that the miniskirts the insider trick of Victorias Secret
and minishorts and minidresses of Angels, who used it on their legs
the season are being juxtaposed (and arms and faces) before walking
with shoes that can make the ground the runway last November. It makes
tremble with every stomp. In fact, self-tanner look more natural, it
thats the whole point. The real look makes the skin look soft and
of the season, the real accessory, smooth, and it makes the legs
the real must-have? Two things you look, you know, just, damn.
already own: your legs. To be fair, the beauty of this look
There are a few ways to get is not just in legs that are smooth,
your gams in fighting form. First defined, or the length of tree limbs.
youll need a razor with a hundred (Though admittedly that doesnt
bladesor, say, five. We like the hurt.) The real beauty in showing off
Gillette Venus Swirl Razor and EOS our lower appendages is the feeling
Shave Cream. Shaving is exfoliating, of empowerment that results.
so no need to use a scrub. If your Theres history herea profound,
legs arent blessed with a healthy hard-fought history. With every
dose of natural melanin, you probably passing generation, what we cut off
already know that self-tanner is our hemlines, we added to our
a friend. But heres what you dont backbones. Showing off our legs was
knowor at least keep forgetting: never just about showing off our
The amount of DHA in your self- legs. It was about our freedoms.
tanner, not how much you apply, Our bodies. Our stance. It was about
determines how deep the color will standing up and looking out. Our
get. So lay it on thick. The more legs carry us through the world.
you apply, the more even your skin Celebrating them has always
will look. Trust. You currently have meant taking pride in themand
14,367 self-tanner options, so in ourselves.
were happy to share three of our And a hemline whose length is
favorites: The new Jergens Natural best measured in millimeters
Glow Wet Skin Moisturizer goes on makes us stand taller. It makes us
damp skin as soon as you turn off walk prouder.
the shower, Vita Liberata Ten Minute It makes us unstoppable.
Tan has express formulas beat by 50 DANIELLE PERGAMENT
minutes, and Clarins Self Tanning
Instant Gel has never let us down.
BOOT CAMP
Now for the real insiders hack:
Opposite page, left: Leather top by
Once your self-tanner is completely
Herms. Silver bracelet by Jennifer Fisher.
dry, rub on a moisturizing serum. We Right: Cotton jacket by Marni. Leather
highly recommend NYDG Luminizing shorts by 3.1 Phillip Lim. On both:
Skin Essence. Its a toner-serum Airbrush Legs Leg Makeup in Medium
hybrid for face and body, but heres Glow by Sally Hansen. Details,
why you really care about it: It was see Shopping Guide.
SHOPPING GUIDE top, $645, and pants, $1,625. Herms stores. Jennifer Fisher Schiele (2); Joan Marcus;
Cover: Wendelborn wool Stella McCartney, Los Angeles. silver bracelet, $685. Jennifer Mariah Tauger. Beauty School,
bodysuit, $360. Modaoperandi 310-273-7051. Georgina Trevino fisherjewelry.com. Marni cotton page 42: Jason Lloyd-Evans
.com. Bottega Veneta knit top, Contemporary Jewelry earrings, jacket, $1,730. Marni stores. (Dolce & Gabbana); Imaxtree
$480. 800-845-6790. Narciso $130. Georginatrevinojewelry 3.1 Phillip Lim leather shorts, (McQueen, Valentino); Jeff
Rodriguez silk top, $895 for .com. Sonia Rykiel cotton top, $795. 31philliplim.com. Vespa/WireImage (Knightley);
similar styles. Neiman Marcus $550, and skirt, $790. Sonia Josephine Schiele (still lifes).
stores. Cover Look, page 16, Rykiel, N.Y.C. 212-396-3060. Beauty Reporter, page 47:
top, from left: Stella McCartney
cotton top, $645, and pants,
We Who Prey earrings, $55.
Wewhoprey.com. Isabel Marant
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jerod Harris/WireImage
(Heard); Neil Rasmus/BFA/Rex/
$1,625. Stella McCartney, Los cotton-blend top, $345. Isabel CREDITS Shutterstock (Bamber); David
Angeles. 310-273-7051. Georgina Marant, San Francisco. 415- Contributors, page 14: Noam M. Benett/Getty Images for
Trevino Contemporary Jewelry 781-0113. Stella McCartney Galai/WireImage (Chopra); Burberry (Aboah); Josephine
earrings, $130. Georginatrevino cotton pants, $1,065 for Cindy Ord/Getty Images Schiele (still lifes). Elements
jewelry.com. Isabel Marant similar styles. Stellamccartney for UNDP (Lakshmi); Frazer of Style, page 74, clockwise
cotton-blend top, $345. Isabel .com. Tibi earring, $675. Tibi Harrison/Getty Images for from top right: Frank Hoensch/
Marant, San Francisco. 415- .com. Page 133: Zero + Maria AFI (Watson); Steve Granitz/ Redferns/Getty Images; Monica
781-0113. Stella McCartney Cornejo cotton nylon sweater, WireImage (Wu); C. Flanigan/ Feudi/voguerunway.com; Luca
cotton pants, $1,065 for similar $1,250. Zeromariacornejo FilmMagic (Lovato); James Tombolini/voguerunway.com;
styles. Stellamccartney.com. .com. Maryam Nassir Zadeh Devaney/WireImage (Smalls); Umberto Fratini/voguerunway
Tibi earring, $675. Tibi.com. bikini top and bottom, $262. Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic .com; David M. Benett/
Sonia Rykiel cotton top, $550, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, N.Y.C. (Alba); Desiree Navarro/ Getty Images. Here Comes
and skirt, $790. Sonia Rykiel, 212-673-6405. J. W. Anderson WireImage (Markle); Prince the Sun, page 77: Liam
N.Y.C. 212-396-3060. We Who earrings, $1,650. J-w-anderson Williams/WireImage (Beetz); Goodman (shoe, top, bikini,
Prey earrings, $55. Wewhoprey .com. Loewe bracelet, $1,150 Neilson Barnard/Getty Images skirt); Josephine Schiele
.com. Bottom, from left: Alix for similar styles. Loewe, Miami. for the Limited (Longoria); (bag, concealer, oil); courtesy
swimsuit, $198 for similar styles. 305-576-7601. Page 134: Acacia Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images of subject (Wang); Alessandro
Shopbop.com. Herv Van Der Swimwear swimsuit, $213. Soleil for VH1 (Polanco); Daniel Garofalo/voguerunway.com
Straeten bracelet, $897. Vander blue.com. Marni earrings, $450. Zuchnik/WireImage (Webb); (runway). The Green Party,
straeten.fr. Acacia Swimwear Marni stores. Page 138: Balmain Jerod Harris/WireImage (King); page 114, clockwise from
swimsuit, $213. Soleilblue.com. viscose-blend top, $1,350. Michael Boardman/FilmMagic top left: Romulo Yanes; Levi
Marni earrings, $450. Marni Balmain.com. Jade Swim bikini (Green). Talking Beauty With Brown/Trunk Archive;
stores. Mikoh swimsuit, $218. top, $90. Matchesfashion Phillipa Soo, page 26, clockwise Romulo Yanes; Ted Cavanaugh/
Thegirlandthewater.com. Loewe .com. Maryam Nassir Zadeh from top left: Josephine Schiele thelicensingproject.com;
earrings, $1,290 for similar bikini bottom (sold with top), (2); Clara Balzary; Josephine Media Bakery.
styles. Loewe.com. Page 18, $262. Maryam Nassir Zadeh,
from left: Wendelborn wool N.Y.C. 212-673-6405. Herv
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Gugu
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