CIEE Khon Kaen Volume XVIII, Issue I, Spring 2017

Isaan Insider
A glimpse into the lives and insights of students studying in Khon Kaen, Thailand

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 Table of Contents
Title Author Page
Mai Sai Nam Pbla: A Word on Being Vegetarian in Thailand Abbey Marino..3
Land of Smiles and Sweet Tooths Avanti Mohan .4
Street Food in Thailand Kaying Thor.4
Sustainability Comes in Many Colors Alissa Hevesh.. 5
V Lost at S.E.A.: Being (Almost) Farrang Vicky Lai . 6
Pre-Visit Home Stay Praveena Fernes . 6
Multi-Faceted Adaptability Molly Gurney.7
Thai Roommates Illisa Simon.8
Making New Friends Aja Beckam . 8
E-San Music Festival Caroline Van Buskirk. 9
Learning Thai in Intermediate Thai Class Hsa Hser Ku.9
A Day in the Life of a CIEE Student Sam Usavage 10
Khon Kaen Agriculture Festival Fumika Miyamoto... 11
The Nightlife at KKU Olivia Rainer .......... 11
Weekend in Chiang Mai Brennan Torpey 12
A Weekend in Laos Beth Herman 13
Smiles, Friendship, and Imported Cheese Zac Cooper ... 14
Surviving on the Roads Sara Mar .. 14
Caffeine and Endorphins Julianne Behrens .. 15
Being Frugal Cristeen Anyanwu . 16
Edited by Aja Beckman & Brennan Torpey
Layout by Avanti Mohan
Photos contributed by the CIEE students

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 MAI SAI NAM PBLA: A Word on Being Vegetarian in Thailand
By Abbey Marino, University of Tulsa

After eating my way through Thai food for nearly a month, I have realized how impossibly
unaware I was of Thailands food culture. In America, Thai restaurants are a common occurrence, and
they are often filled with piles of vegetables and tofu atop melt-in-your-mouth noodles. I specifically
remember eating at one of these restaurants with my other vegetarian friends, rejoicing in the ease I was
going to have as a vegetarian in this new country. This expectation was only amplified when I arrived in
Khon Kaen and met my fellow vegetarians on the program.
As with many other generalizations, it took about a week or so for me to realize my pre-departure
judgements were a bit incorrect. In Thailand, much of the food comes from street vendors where meat is
the main protein source. Beyond that, fish sauce is a main flavor of many dishes and is also a permanent
resident of the many woks and bowls used to prepare each meals ingredients. In order to compensate
for my moral objection to eating animal products, I find myself ordering Thai dishes without many of the
ingredients that make them so unique and flavorful. This leads me not only to feeling as if I am missing
out on a cultural experience but also to wondering if my abstention from eating meat is something I will
look back on and regret. That being said, after seeing the way many animals are left to starve in the
streets, I have never been so dedicated to my mission to stand up for animal rights.
For anyone who is wondering if it is possible to be a vegetarian in Thailand, the answer is yes; but
have there been times when being vegetarian has felt like an inconvenience I am imposing on others due
to my privilege? That answer is also yes. Before embarking on this adventure as a vegetarian, ask yourself
about your reasons for being a vegetarian. If they are not strong, take a moment to consider eating meat
again in order to experience this central part of the Thai culture. If you are like me and know that being
vegetarian is not something you want to change, thats alright too. Before arriving in Thailand, prepare
yourself for some accidental contamination every now and then and remind yourself that flexibility is an
important aspect of trying to adapt. Furthermore, dont be surprised if you order a plate of Pad Thai
jay (the Thai word for vegetarian/vegan) and look down to see tiny little shrimps scattered throughout
your plate!

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 Land of Smiles and Sweet Tooths
By Avanti Mohan, Brandeis University
Chocolate cake, step aside! Honey toast is whats in these days. Originating in
Japan, honey toast is a thick piece of caramelized bread with ice cream, honey, fruit,
and other sweet toppings to delight your senses. Toasts can be a two-inch or six-inch
piece of warm bread with a scoop of matcha ice cream, fresh strawberries, whipped
cream, chocolate sauce, or better yet, all the above. The range of flavors and add-ons is endless.
My first honey toast was at the Pug Caf, located between the CIEE Study Center and my dorm
room. As I indulged in a chocolate banana toast with friends, we were joined by an adorable pug friend
during our time. Similarly, the Huskimo Caf has honey
toast, coffee, and companionship from several eager
huskies waiting to be fed toast scraps and lick your
fingers clean. Toast cafes are located all around the
KKU campus, with two only 100 feet from the CIEE
students dormitory.
Dessert in Thailand is very diverse and easy to
find. Ice cream, bubble tea, cake, fruit smoothies, tarts,
frozen yogurt, sweet breads, and much more can be
found around most street corners. Though I miss my
mothers famous banana muffins, I wont get bored of
dessert here in Thailand because there will always
someplace and something new for me to try.

Street Food in Thailand

By Kaying Thor, Bethel University
Deep-fried insects. Grilled chicken. Sticky rice in a bag. These
are just some examples of foods that could be found amongst the
normal street food of Khon Kaen, Thailand. Some of you may be
wondering whether or not Ive tried any of these. To that, I can tell
you yes, I have tried all three. I have eaten the deep-fried insect due
to a dare and have had both the grilled chicken and sticky rice during
various meals of the day.
The first thought that I had as to why someone would
consume deep-fried insects is that they either choose to eat it due to
a dare or as a protein source. And both of these hypotheses are correct. To my surprise, even the various
Thai students that I have encountered do not eat nor like the taste of the deep-fried insects that their
American roommate would prefer to try due to curiosity. Although there are some individuals that do
choose to consume this as a delicacy, including my older sister and mother who are currently living in the
United States.
Where sticky rice, grilled chicken, and som tam (papaya salad) are eaten and sold daily in the
Northeast of Thailand, and more specifically the Isaan region from my experience. These three delicacies
could be found almost everywhere depending on which region one travels in.

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 Sustainability Comes in Many Colors
By Alissa Hevesh, Eckerd College

It has been so long since I have thrown away a piece of plastic that I cant even remember the last
time I did such a thing. On my plane ride from Dubai to Bangkok just a month ago, I tried sifting through
the pieces of advice and stories that friends and family had told me about their experiences in Thailand to
see if I could recall anything about sustainability or overall environmental consciousness here. I realized
that I had no understanding of the situation at all. I started to worry that I would have to compromise my
environmental vows for the next six months and started thinking about how I could avoid doing so.
When I first arrived on the KKU campus, I was devastated by the amount of trash I saw lining the
roads, the amount of single-use plastics being distributed, the lack of re-usable bags and water bottles
being used, and what seemed like a general unconsciousness. I assumed that Thai culture lacked environ-
mental concern, but really I just needed to open my mind to see that the effort looks different from what
I see at home. I proceeded to ask some of my new Thai friends if they use re-usable bags when they shop,
or if they recycle their water bottles after theyre done. Their responses were not exactly encouraging,
and I learned that the once-trendy environmental movement in Thailand had sort of died a few years ago.
When my roommate told me that the occasional recycling bin was just for looks and I began to throw
away plastic, paper, and metal, I grew frustrated, restless, and eager to find some answers.
Seeing hard-boiled eggs being sold in plastic capsules and bananas in individual plastic bags, de-
spite the fact that these items have their own natural packing, on a daily basis became discouraging. It
wasn't long before I learned how to say "no bag," in Thai and began saying it frequently. The vendors
were actually surprised that a foreigner knew such a phrase. However, the more I talked about my con-
cerns, the more knowledge I received. As it turns out, there really is no organized recycling system here,
but that doesnt mean that everything is going straight to a landfill to burn. Once waste is brought to ei-
ther open-dump sites or waste management facilities, scavengers sort through everything, pulling out
recyclable materials, and sell them to companies that buy these materials to process them and transport
them to recycling plants. Just because sustainability looks different in this country than it does in the liber-
al, hyper-conscious community I grew up in, does not mean its not here. I encourage anyone who is wor-
ried about the environmental situation in Thailand to come with an open mind and a reusable bag.

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 V Lost at S.E.A.: Being (Almost) Farrang
By Vicky Lai, Mills College
As an Teo-Chew Asian American student studying abroad in an Asian country,
specifically in a country that's inhabited by many who are of Teo-Chew descent, I've
countlessly been the one that locals turn to when attempting to speak to our farrang/
foreigner-filled 'venture group. Most of the time, they'll catch on and realize I don't
speak Thai, and continue to search for another member of our group who might be better able to provide
them the sanctuary of another Thai speaker. Other
times, they'll persist. I'll get smiles paired with
questioning eyes that say "555*...well aren't you going
to respond? You must know something, right? ...555?"
So with that comes the question, am I farrang enough?
Where am I on the spectrum of farrang to "real" Asian?
This question has become a consistent theme
throughout my few weeks here in Thailand, and
although it's neither a fantastic nor horrible identity
crisis to have, it's one that I'm set and bound to explore
during my time abroad!
*555 means ha-ha-ha in English

Pre Visit Home Stay

By Praveena Fernes, Tulane University
I fiddle with my small left earring and reflect on how
irresponsibly sourced jewelry bought in Brooklyn can cripple a
community in Northeastern Thailand. Here in Na Nong Bong,
villagers face awful environmental and social injustices perpetrated
by an oppressive mining industry.

We hike through rows of rubber trees to arrive at an

abandoned mine site filled with contaminated water. I stare at this
vessel of devastation and picture the cyanide seeping through the
ground water, at the same protracted speed with which chronic
disease plagued the people. Cloaked in promises of progress and
industrialization, previously lush farm fields perish accompanied by
the livelihoods of local farmers.

Though it is disturbing to learn about years of man-made

trauma, it's been so powerful to meet resilient leaders. Two other
American students and I had the privilege of meeting many of the female leaders in the fight against the
mine. They shared stories of violence, struggle, and strength. As we concluded our exchange, their hope
for the future left me feeling humbled and inspired.

We must resist.

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 Multi-Faceted Adaptability
By Molly Gurney, Clark University

I struggled and am still struggling to find a balance between upholding all my values in this new
environment, and not losing myself in my endeavor to fit in here in Thailand as best I can. It was difficult
coming here and having no place to put my plastic bottle except the trash, being automatically given a
plastic bag wherever I went, and not composting my food waste. I can do the best I can with my metal
fork, saying no to bags, reusing what I can, etc. but mostly I have to accept the difference in culture and
what environmentalism looks like, and shift my actions accordingly. I cant be too hard on myself when I
dont have the privilege of recycling bins, but I also have to retain my environmental consciousness.
Accepting I can still be true to myself and the environment, while accepting that circumstances create
different opportunities. This applies to armpit hair as well my friend and I came to Thailand without
shaving and went on to be laughed at uncontrollably by a group of Thai students. In our liberal bubbles at
home, the people around us embrace the natural beauty of hair and hippie grooming choices, but in this
part of Khon Kaen, to many Thai people we have asked it is very repulsive and weird. I wanted to stay
true to my values and spread the message that women dont have to conform to media representations
and sexual objectification, however I was incredibly self-conscious lifting weights above my head at the
gym and dancing with my arms up at a concert. When upholding my values got in the way of my
happiness in the beginning stages of this study abroad journey, I realized I needed to shave. Now, having
internalized all these conflicts, I feel ready to try not shaving again. I encourage all those thinking of study
abroad, to be gentle with yourself if you cant perfectly exemplify your
beliefs. Sometimes it takes time in new and unfamiliar environments,
and thats OK. Take time to understand new cultures and adapt, but also
choose those things that really matter to you and stay true to them.
In relation to adapting oneself to a culture, it is important to find
space to create a comfortable routine and for going out of your comfort
zone. I hula hoop at sunset most nights, get my favorite Thai Iced Tea
and often go to the same caf to do work, where Im greeted by the
same warm people and energy that I feel a part of. I am aware however,
that when I am getting too comfortable or dependent on familiar
activities and people, I need to encouragingly challenge myself to push
past my comfort zone. When I recognize my subtle increased
dependence, I try to take time to get lost by myself, make a new Thai
friend, struggle through ordering that special dish in Thai, in order to
build my inner trust and reliance. It doesnt always have to be big
adrenaline pumping activities to challenge myself, but Im learning how
to push myself a little every day to continue to broaden my perspective
of the world and my relationship with myself. In doing so Ive
experienced the kindness of strangers, hidden paradise cafes, and the
depths of fears and thoughts. Im continually learning about the culture
and experiencing myself as I enter new and uncomfortable situations.

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 Thai Roommates
By Illisa Simon, Indiana UniversityBloomington
CIEE students are paired with a Thai roommate during their semester abroad. I
have had an awesome experience since living with a Thai roommate and have been able
to practice Thai language outside of the classroom, visit my roommates family and
hometown during the weekends, learn about the culture, visit hidden spots that only
natives know about, immerse in Thai culture, and learn about Buddhism, morality, and meditation. The
discoveries and initial introduction to Thai culture has allowed me to become more open-minded, ask
questions to my roommate who has become a close friend, and feel immersed.

Making New Friends

By Aja Beckam, University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign

Being a student at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign has allowed me a unique

experience to meet international students from all across the globe. One thing that I have learned from
making friends from different cultures is that all it takes is a warm smile, friendly introduction, and finding
a shared interest or hobby. Since studying abroad in Thailand, I have been able to meet many Thai friends.
My Thai roommate was my first Thai friend ever. We easily bond over good food including green curry,
ramen, and ice cream. Also, I have bonded with many other students Thai roommates. One student
named Pim and I play basketball twice a week with her friends and it has allowed me to make other
friends. Also, a student named Praewy and I are big fans of going movies. Last week, she suggested going
to Fifty Shades Darker. My roommate, six American students, and I attended the opening movie night.
Many of us would have never gone to see the movie back in America but when in Thailand and when with
Thai friends anything goes. Praewy and I plan to go to the movies together once and week and check
out whats showing. Im excited to get to know her more and just make new friends. Last weekend, Thai
students introduced Americans to real karaoke. Initially when asked to go, I thought it was stupid and
said no. But then I realized that I came to Thailand willing to be open minded about different experiences.
Later that night, I found myself singing to the top of my lungs, jumping on the sofa, and of course
twerking in the mirror. LOL. I had fun doing something that I initially thought was ridiculous, and Id do it
again. This upcoming weekend, a few students and I going to cook an American style breakfast and invite
all the American students and their Thai roommates. We want to bond with everyone and introduce good
American food to Thai students. On Sunday, we all are planning to go on a hike and swim in a nearby dam.
Im excited to make new some new memories and become closer with the group.

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 E-San Music Festival
By Caroline Van Buskirk, Pennsylvania State University
A few weeks ago, I attended the fifth annual E-san Music Festival with my
roommate. The festival is located at the East Green Island Ubon Ratana dam in Khon
Kaen. We arrived on Saturday afternoon and camped overnight. The scenery was
unparalleled- mountains and rivers surrounding the expanse where the festival took
place. To say this was an enthralling experience is an understatement. With it being only the second week
of my adventures in Thailand, I was completely consumed by every aspect, the music, the culture - the
overall energy.
Upon arrival, I felt like I had traveled back in time and was attending a smaller, eastern version of
Woodstock. Everyone was dressed in 1960s fashion, displaying messages of world peace and unity. The
festival was centered around a massive peace symbol that towered over its entirety and glowed as the
sun set; it was a serene atmosphere to say the least (aside from the
mosquitos). The music consisted mostly of reggae and acoustic
covers, and more rock as the night progressed. Some of the songs
were in English and some in Thai, but it was beautiful to listen to
regardless, and my roommate even explained to me the lyrics of
some of the Thai songs which helped me delve even deeper into the
experience. There was definitely a language barrier, but I got to
practice my Thai with some people and even met some fellow
Americans who were teaching English in Khon Kaen Province (my
roommates hometown coincidentally).
Overall, it was a really unique weekend- I got to learn more
about my roommate, her interests, and her culture. Camping in the
mountains with thousands of people listening to harmonies
preaching harmony is by far one of my favorite Thai experiences thus
far. I would definitely recommend this as a weekend trip for anyone

Learning Thai in Intermediate Thai Class

By Hsa Hser Ku, Bethel University
When I decided to come study abroad here in Thailand, one of my
goals was to improve my Thai and being able to read and write it. Before
coming, I was looking at the course description for both the beginner Thai
class and intermediate Thai class. On the first day of the program, I thought
for sure that I would be in the Beginners class because I can only understand
and speak little bit of Thai. One of the Thai class teachers, Ajaan Jeab, told
me that she was going to put me in Thai intermediate class because I had a background in Thai language
and when she spoke to me in Thai I was able to understand most of what she said. She would teach me
how to read Thai. There were only two students in intermediate Thai class including myself, and the oth-
er student and I were taught in separate classes, one-on-one with a Thai language instructor. The first
weeks were challenging but we have learned a lot and it is worth studying hard. I am thankful that I have
the chance to take the class that helps me fulfill the goal I set to read and write Thai.

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 A Day in the Life of a CIEE Student
By Sam Usavage, Pennsylvania State University
7:45 am: Wake up in your Kasiensin Apartment to the sound of roosters calling and
the sight of sunshine streaming through your balcony window. Get ready for class
maybe your roommate will even give you a ride on her/his motorbike to the study
center (no worries, its just a 5 minute walk).
9 am: Thai Class. Youll be split into small classes of maximum 10 students with rotating teachers (Ajaans)
who may laugh at our heavy American accents, but in fact make class an enjoyable and comfortable
place. You WILL have a snack break every class hand picked snacks varying from sweet cake rolls to
bags of peanuts and iced tea. Major perk.
12 pm: Head to lunch with your friends you can easily grab a meal of rice and veggies with meat for the
equivalent of 1 USD!
1 pm: Class time. Youll spend the next few hours with your small group of CIEE students in a discussion
based setting learning about current issues in the Isaan region or preparing for homestays. Or, you may
have a guest lecturer from Khon Kaen University, an NGO, or a researcher. Its likely that youll get EVEN
MORE snacks provided for you in this time. (We love study breaks here at CIEE Khon Kaen.)
5 pm: Time to yourself head to your room to rest or to a caf with friends to read up for tomorrows
lecture.
7 pm: Grab another meal at the Khon Kaen Night Market or ask your roommate to take you to her/his
favorite spot. (See the sections on food to get an idea of the diversity of food to choose from, but dont
read hungry!)
9 pm: Go out to the bar street, to the gym, or just stay in and watch a movie with your friends. There are a
lot of options here in the university area of Khon Kaen.

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 Khon Kaen Agriculture Festival
By Fumika Miyamoto, Denison University
Do you like state fairs? If you do, you should check out the Agriculture Fair when
you are here. Its a little more specific to agricultures. This event is held in mid-January for
10 days, using the open field in Khon Kaen University, Faculty of Agriculture. You can find
so many things: food, animals, plants, agricultural machines, furniture, royal project exhibitions, and more.
What to look out for when you are there. First, food. There are many snacks, drinks, or food that I
havent encountered in everyday markets nearby. Make sure you go with your Thai friends so you can ask
what they are, and go with a group so you can try many different things. Second, animals. Dogs, cats, rabbits,
hamsters, and birds, including chickens, are everywhere! Though you cant have them if you are only staying
for a few months, they are still cute to watch. You can also see buffalos, cows, and goats. Last, but not least,
the plant area and royal project exhibitions are nice to walk around and start learning about Thai
agricultures, especially if you will be in Development & Globalization program. All in all, its a fun event you
should check out one night, even just for a dinner if you are coming to Khon Kaen in the spring semester!

The Nightlife at KKU

By Olivia Rainer, Wofford College
There is a rule at Khon Kaen University that no alcohol can be sold within the
campus. So nightlife must be pretty bleak, right? Wrong. One road - let's call it Loophole
St. - is lined on each side with countless bars and one important 7 Eleven *

The bars at KKU are one of a kind: open to the air, packed with tables, live music, and plenty of
dancing. When you sit down, a bucket of ice comes with any number of your choosing of very large
Chang beers. Music seems to be a big part of the nightlife culture - maybe even more so than the
alcohol. While each bar only has three choices of beer, there is a copious variety of live performances.
Uptown and Hashtags have pop and rock music. Bang bar has reggae music. Be-to-Sit has easy listening
Thai music.

My favorite thing about the bars is the

welcoming nature of its inhabitants. Although I
am a foreigner invading their stomping grounds, I
am always met with enthusiastic waves and
smiles. Everyone there is cool and their fun infec-
tious energy spreads to you before you can even
take your seat.

*Tip: This 7 Eleven is the only place to buy a six

pack or bottle of rum (not to be consumed in your
apartment, of course) between 5pm - 12am.
A squad of Harley Quinn's dancing on stage at Hashtags Bar

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 Weekend in Chiang Mai
By Brennan Torpey, Tulane University
I remember the morning that I left the United States - my parents and I
were sitting on the couch watching an Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown
Special on Thailand, specifically focusing on one city in the Northern Province,
Chiang Mai. I had never previously heard of it or known anything about it, and
after watching and hearing about what this city has to offer, I remember
thinking, Man, Ive got to check this place out while Im down there Little
did I know that my expectations of Chiang Mai would pale in comparison to
actually experiencing all this city has to offer.
After about a 12 hour bus ride, our group of eleven CIEE students (and
one Thai roommate, shoutout to Kie) headed to Hug Hostel, but not before
hitting up McDonalds for some Thai egg McMuffins. After arriving at Hug
Hostel, we dropped our stuff off and set off to explore the city. Half the group spent the first day at a
tiger reservation, while the other half visited different temples and went into different shops and
markets, one of which had a dope art store with incredible scenic paintings. The piece is one that I
thought would look awesome in my living room if I had some extra baht to throw and have it shipped to
America, although sadly I do not.
The next day, again the group split half and half, but this time I went to hang with some chang (aka
elephants for all yall farangs out there). After a rather tumultuous ride to the elephant sanctuary, we
spent most of the day hanging with three elephants, two of which were sisters and literally ate pretty
much the whole time. After we watched these beautiful animals bathe in a river a little hike away from
the base camp, we came back and gave the elephants mud baths. One of the workers there started
smearing mud all over us, and soon enough a huge mud war ensued. We had an awesome time that day,
and I will never forget the hospitality that these people showed to us foreigners as they showed us their
humble ways of life.
Last, but certainly not least, was the Lady Boy Cabaret show on Saturday night. Two people in the
group, Aja and Sara, had already seen it the night before and told us all that we needed to come. Not
being one to say no, I came along for the ride, having little to no idea what would be in store for me that
night. I had never been to a drag show in the states, but I feel like even the best of what RuPaul had to
offer couldnt touch some of the performances these guys gave. Glitter, glam, gusto - great times were
had by some CIEE Khon Kaen student in this cabaret show. By far the best part, however, was having
every single person in the group raise my hand for me to volunteer to get on stage and wear drag. Less
than five mins later, I was on stage wearing a Nicki Minaj
Pink Friday - era wig and a dress that barely reached my
knees, in my dirt-covered hiking boots. I swear yall, I
barely had enough time to process what was going on
before I was on stage telling the crowd in falsetto my
name and where Im from. One things for sure- what
happens in Thailand, stays in Thailand. If you plan on
visiting Thailand anytime soon, Chiang Mai should be at
the top of your list for places to visit. I can assure you,
you wont be disappointed.

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 A Weekend in Laos
By Beth Herman, Colorado State University

Imagine youre someone who has never travelled outside your home country, but for a semester
you decide to study abroad in Thailand. For three weeks you are living there and you know this is the
greatest adventure of your life. Every day, the new people you meet, and the new smells you smell, and
all the sensory overload of a foreign land brings you deeper into this adventure. You think: It couldnt
get better than this, right? As it turns out, it actually can.
The weekend I travelled to Laos was an added adventure to the one I was already living in Khon
Kaen. It was an amazing opportunity to be able to make this trip. Thanks to a three - day weekend from
school and a couple of friends from the program, I was pulled out of my comfort zone as we crossed the
border into Laos and made our way to Vang Vieng. After a bumpy four-hour bus ride, Vang Vieng greeted
us with its vast green mountains, where we would spend our next day biking in the early morning. The
scenery surrounded us, never ceasing to amaze as we biked to a blue lagoon where each of us jumped in.
We then visited an organic farm for lunch where we learned about the farms efforts in sustainability,
while also doubling as an English school for the local children. Exhausted and sore from the bike ride, we
rested and ventured to a caf with grand views to say goodbye to the day. We finished by taking in the
sunset, watching it fall behind the mountains as each of us acknowledged what a perfect day it had been.

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 Smiles, Friendship, and Imported Cheese
By Zac Cooper, Vanderbilt University
They say Thailand is the land of smiles, friendship, and imported cheese.
Here are some of our confirming amalgamated experiences:
Smiles: We hitchhiked with a stranger down Phu Tab Berk Mountain for an hour to the nearby city. When
we arrived at our destination, he refused our tip with a smile and a said, "Thank you for coming to
Thailand."
Friendship: After seating ourselves on a bus, a monk offered cartons of soy milk to my roommate and I
and wished us well on our journey.
On our way back from Laos, we met a young French man named Cedric. He tested me with my Thai
vocabulary as we crossed the aptly titled Friendship Bridge.
Imported cheese: Whichever cheese that has been consumed so far has definitely been imported.

Surviving on the Road

By Sara Mar, University of Washington - Seattle Campus
Unlike in the USA where everyone drives a car, truck, or motorcycle, Thailand
offers more transportation options. The transportation can differ depending on where
you are traveling to, which city you are in, or your personal preference. On campus, there
are air-conditioned shuttle buses, tour buses for longer rides out of the city, motorcycles
(popular with just about everyone), taxis, tuk tuks, and song taews. With all of these transportation op-
tions comes an entirely different set of driving norms and even for pedestrians crossing the street will
require some adjustments, keen eyesight, and agility. Here are a few of my observations thus far.

Observation #1: Driving happens on the left side of the road. Understanding how turning lanes
work has taken some getting used to and sometimes still throws me off. Observation #2: No buffer. Back
home, I enjoyed casual strolls down sidewalks that guaranteed me some degree of safety from drivers.
But in some places in Thailand, there may be a small patch of grass that separates you and a motorcycle
driving by. Couple that with observation #3: no pedestrian-right-of-way. In the United States, you can jay
walk with relative confidence that the cars will stop for you (or they will at least noticeably slow down).
Not so much here in Thailand. We are, as they say, at the bottom of the food chain. Therefore, take the
old adage Look both ways before you cross the street and multiply that times ten if you want to
make it across safely. That leads me to observation #4: its all in the timing. As a pedestrian, timing is es-
sential when dashing to the other side of the street while avoiding motorcycles, cars, and song taews.
The drivers here have impeccable timing as well. And when I say impeccable, what I really mean
is so precise that you occasionally wonder how you havent gotten into an accident yet. Tailgating is
commonplace, as is cutting in front of another car within a second of passing them. And final-
ly observation #5: no seat belts. This plus the impeccable timing makes for some serious questions re-
garding road safety. But all I can say is hold on tight and remember to always be nimble when walking
the streets of Thailand.

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 Caffeine and Endorphins
By Julianne Behrens, Tulane University

If youre like me and you love a good morning lift followed by a great cup of black coffee (and then
several more cups throughout the day), you may run into some trouble in Khon Kaen. If you are more the
sweet latte/frappuccino-type who loves an afternoon, evening, or even late night workout, youll do okay
here.
Lets start with the workout situation. There is a great gym
located very conveniently across the street from our apartment.
Sure, its a smaller gym than most but it does the job and the small
size gym has a greater community feel. Ive had to adapt my
workout routines, but all in all, this gym is totally worth the
membership. The weights are labeled in kilograms and the
intervals between the weights increases much more than Im used
to, but actually its beneficial to getting stronger. Another cool
aspect of this gym is that you can ask anyone working there to
teach you how to box, and they are eager to help out. I like the
gym in Thailand better than the ones in the US because in the US
they close pretty early but here, the gym opens at 10am and
doesnt close until about midnight.
If youre willing to trade a StairMaster for Muay Thai, definitely go
for it!

Now for caffeine. Through the past few weeks it has been
somewhat of a struggle to get my caffeine fix without breaking the
bank, and dont get me wrong, several of the coffee shops here are
gorgeous study spots with decent Americanos, but Ive really
missed simple black coffee. Some here say that you can get black
coffee, but what they really mean is you can get instant black
coffee. Lets all be real for a second and recognize the fact that
instant coffee isnt really coffee. Because of my lack of success in
finding my caffeine niche, I decided to take matters into my own
hands. Sam and I went in on a deal together: she would provide the
pot, and I would provide the coffee grounds. Our coffee shipment
finally came in from the U.S., and things have been great. If you plan
to come to Thailand and dont think you can handle the sweet,
instant coffee lifestyle, pack your own grounds because shipping is
really expensive, but a true caffeine-addict will always find a way.

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 Caffeine and Endorphins
By Cristeen Anyanwu, Georgetown University
Let's talk money. Before coming to Thailand, I set a budget for myself. The amount
of money that I set aside was the most money that I have ever managed by myself
without oversight of my parents. I felt a sense of independence.
Since managing my own money, I have learned three important lessons that I think are valuable to
any student who is studying abroad or planning to study abroad.
First, keep track of how much you spend on food while. On average, Isaan Thai food food is about
$1 USD per meal. Do not take this for granted by buying four different dishes in one day like I did at first
because you will still have to budget money for other things. You have to budget transportation costs,
laundry, toiletries, personal items, etc. The good thing about Thailand is that everything is low price and
should be able to fit into a decent budget.
Second, you will miss the food back home. I craved fried wings, hamburgers, fries, etc. and gave in
to it. I spent more money at American style restaurants, and it quickly put a dent into my budget. It
is okay to have a meal native to your home country every now and then but remember to try some of the
dishes in your study abroad country because there will always be something that you have yet to try and
its probably less expensive- stretch your baht, my friend.
Third, make a separate budget for fun activities! I have one budget for food + essentials another
for travel + and leisure. Every month, I try to calculate how much I spend on leisure and plan the
upcoming months budget. I shift the money around whether it be more or less to fit the expenses for the
month. It helps me gauge how much I am spending and reflect on whether I spend money responsibly. It
also helps me more fun things with less stress. Hopefully these three lessons can help with your
budgeting for study abroad.

Camping in Thailand
By Abbey Marino, University of Tulsa
How often do you find yourself in a space so dark you cannot see your hand in front of your face?
When do you take the time to meditate to the sounds of a million sleeping bats? On Saturday, January
28, CIEE students watched the sunset from a voluminous bat cave. As dusk approached, students
trekked down the hill as a light mist of bat urine splashed against their skin, choosing to view this abnor-
mal occurrence as a bat blessing for safe travels and good luck.
From the bottom of the peak, students looked up to see millions of bats soaring out of the cave
in perfect formation, dancing through the sky for ten kilometers, painting a bat cyclone against the
beautiful pink sunset sky. There is only one thing that could follow an experience like that: home-cooked
Thai cuisine! With stomachs full of stir-fry, sticky rice, and ginger mushroom soup, students circled
around a campfire to end the night. There, Thai and American students alike harmonized to their favorite
songs along with the strum of a lone guitar, watching the embers of a natural forest fire ravaging in the
distance.
Stomachs full and hearts happy, students drifted off to sleep in either a bungalow, tent, or house
(depending on individual preference). The next morning, we all awoke to an unbelievable sunrise and set
off on a hike through the jungle to learn about the trees and wildlife found in the Thai jungle. When the
hike had finished and the heat became too much, the Thai roommates surprised CIEE students with wa-
ter balloon games and many laughs. On the ride back to Khon Kaen, all were quiet and reflective, re-
membering the joyous 24-hour journey that had just passed.

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CIEE Advisor, Susan Pollis, spollis@ciee.org
Resident Director, David Streckfuss, dstreckfuss@yahoo.com
Assistant Resident Director, Arunee Sriruksa, aruneee@yahoo.com
Field Studies Coordinator, John Mark Belardo, jmbelardo@gmail.com

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