Global Silk Industry

A Complete Source Book

Rajat K. Datta & Mahesh Nanavaty

Universal Publishers
USA 2005
 Global Silk Industry: A Complete Source Book

Copyright 2005 Rajat K. Datta and Mahesh Nanavaty

All rights reserved.

Universal Publishers
Boca Raton, Florida USA
2005

ISBN: 1-58112-493-7

www.universal-publishers.com
SILK IN ELEVEN LANGUAGES

Chinese -- SI

English -- SILK

French -- SOIE

German -- SEIDE

Indian -- RESHAM

Italian -- SETA

Japanese -- KINO

Korean -- SOI

Latin -- SERICUM

Russian SOLK

Spanish -- SEDA

iii
Foreword

Xavier Gavyn Lavergne, Secretary General of the

International Silk Association (I.S.A), Lyon, France.

This is a complete silk book that gives us the opportunity to

understand the work of the whole world silk sector. As
International Silk Association, we back up Indian work and
acknowledge all researches that are put to develop more
efficient communication on silk.

We thank the authors for giving us the opportunity to

introduce the International Silk Association (ISA), which has
been well known for its commitment to the exchange in the
post-cocoon silk business all around the globe. With a little
more than 190 members in about 40 countries, it helps silk
professionals to understand the scope of business that is
related to silk, and, every second year; it is an opportunity
for the ISA to present a view of the current situation at the
ISC Congress.

There are three big sectors, viz., Apparel, Accessories,

which is more or less a sub-sector of apparel and
Furnishing. According to these market sectors, people in
countries where the standard of living is high may buy silk
because to them it represents something that is needed for
their social, personal or sensual needs. It is also important
to note that well focus here on silk with a touch of class and
high range products. Silk, Indeed is scarce, the last
available report showed that it represents some 0.18% of all
the world fibers. Such a quantity is quite a strong argument
for selling silk. However, it must always be made quite clear
that silk demands a level of excellence at every stage of
production.

iv
The brisk markets for silk are to be found in the USA for
apparel, accessories and furnishing; in Japan mostly for
accessories but also garments; in Europe for accessories,
furnishing and apparel; but also in China and in India where
both countries have a part of their population that enjoys a
standard of living as high as some Europeans or North
Americans. On the whole the market for silk is having some
difficult time as far as the exchange of raw materials is
concerned. Silk fabric weavers, printers and finishers in
Western countries have to face fierce competition from
Asian countries where the level of quality is improving very
quickly and where creative fabrics are more and more to be
found. For made ups, the sector of accessories is the head
of the sector pulling all markets upwards. The U.S.A, Japan,
Europe, but also China and India are consuming very high
value products from fashionable designers. They put a lot of
money in spending on branded goods.

QUALITY IS THE ISSUE: Silk must be a quality item, it is a

natural fiber and appeals to a lot of people for its
smoothness, shine, softness and insulating properties. Silk,
however, is being widely attacked by chemical fibers that
sometimes are called in misleading ways to remind, yet in a
wrong way to the customer of silk. Most of the time products
are not silk-made, the customer is either deceived or does
not really care and the silk market is endangered.

On the whole if we look at the market, the movement in

depth is that silk is still used by fashion and trend designers
in leading fashion countries; but the offer in shops that
follows is not always to the same level owing to slashed
price-policy and silk like garments and accessories. In Paris,
Milan, London, New York, Tokyo, Shanghai and Delhi,
present silk in the collections and the themes of comfort,

v
legendary aspects, glamorous looks, which make thriving
forever.

HIGH VALUE IS THE SECRET OF SUCCESS: Creativity is

besides quality an important factor. Above all, in order to be
seen, silk must be in the right trends for colors. This gives
value to the base fabric that otherwise will be used as a
fabric among others. Designers do not like polyester or
acetate or polyamide better. They like the added value, the
image content value that is based on communication for the
products.

If silk is struggling to find a market or if you continue to see

appalling apparel with poor fashion oriented designs or if
you give it the granny award for creativity with losing colors
and trims, and last but not least if you dump the prices in a
fierce blind competition; then, no doubt silk will be killed. On
the other hand, show it on computer presentation, train your
public to admire the qualities of silk, explain, educate, teach,
play, make silk a real show business with real qualities
behind that you can trust, talk of the strength of silk as to
back the speech with relevant information and then the
audience will feel the magic of a luxury mix.

With the amount of research that is put into the development

of new technologies for hybrids production, trans-genetics
and breeding in labs, and sericulture farms around the
world, silk has got a very bright and shining future. Just as
smooth as silk.

-oo0oo-

vi
Preface

The global demand for natural textiles fibers has been rising
despite growth of manmade fibers with their diversified
properties and cheaper prices; and the world consumption
of silk is also increasing despite its limited, stagnant
production and high prices. Its popularity is no more
confined to super-rich or haute couture; silk is now an
affordable luxury for the middle class in Europe and USA,
and continues to hold its way in Asia as traditional
ceremonial wear.

Here are gathered, indeed, the main information and

analysis regarding the history of production and trade of this
exceptional textile fiber, from the origins of silk to the 21st
century, covering the important changes in the silk scenario,
notably in the course of the 20th century, which explain
todays situation and enlighten the future.

Japan, the top silk producer until 1970s has receded to

much lower place. Though Japan has made significant
advance in sericulture and silk technology, China has
leaped forward both in silkworm rearing and post-cocoon
silk processing and is enjoying a singular hold over the
world market. India has doubled its silk production and has
emerged as the second biggest source to the world
clothiers. Indias recent advances in evolving better bivoltine
silkworm strains and upgrading rural processing technology
have encouraged many tropical countries to adopt
sericulture for uplifting their rural population.

The technical sections are also particularly interesting, since

they cover sericultural technologies (mulberry culture,
silkworms rearing, seed production) as well as modern

vii
industrial technologies regarding cocoon processing,
reeling, weaving and dyeing-printing. The chapter dedicated
to the current results and orientations of research is of a
particular interest and it is quite original in a book dedicated
elsewhere to economical aspects and marketing.

The present source book traces recent global status of silk

and describes in depth the sericulture practices country-
wise, both in temperate and tropic regions of the world, as
also silk processing, and marketing of raw silk, finished silk
and ready-to-wear including high fashion couture creations
of Italy, France and Switzerland.

The book attempts to fill in a void in the current information

available in English on the world status of sericulture and
silk. We presume it would definitely interest scientists,
technologists and students connected with the textile
industry as also the textile designers, converters, importers
and exporters the world over. It would also help the
boutiques, buying-selling organizations, and chain of
department stores to understand why silk sells and why it is
superior to other textiles. This source book covers the entire
global scenario of silk as it has entered very successfully in
the 21st Century.

We must mention here our sense of obligation to Secretary

Generals, International Silk Association (ISA) and
International Sericulture Commission for sharing the silk
information and for the forewords. We are indebted to
Senior Officers of Central Silk Board (CSB), India and its
institutions as well as Chinese National Institute of
Sericulture, and several scientists who helped us immensely
to complete the book. Silk is Silk.

Rajat K Datta & Mahesh Nanavaty. Authors

viii
Contents

1 GLOBAL TEXTILE SCENARIO 1

1.1 Macro view of fiber Scene
1.2 Natural Textiles - Cotton
1.3 Wool and Worsted Fibers
1.4 Era of Manmade Fibers
1.5 Multifibers, Microfibers and Blends
1.6 Silk Survives and Succeeds

2 SILK HISTORIES AND TRADE DEVELOPMENT 15

2.1 The Ancient Silk Road
2.2 CHINA: Secret of Silk
2.3 INDIA: Silk from Himalayas
2.4 JAPAN: From Foursome to Foremost
2.5 EUROPE: Excels in Processing
2.6 AMERICA: Threats and Bounties
2.7 Post War Silk Renaissance
2.8 World Silk Trade: 1990s and 2000s

3 AN OVERVIEW OF GLOABAL SILK INDUSTRY 35

3.1 CHINA: Can It Sustain Sericulture?
3.2 INDIA: Quantum Jump
3.3 BRAZIL: Sericulture in Latin America
3.4 JAPAN: Struggle for Survival
3.5 THAILAND: Siamese Silk
3.6 CIS: Sericulture in Uzbekistan
3.7 VIETNAM: Planning for exports
3.8 KOREA: South and North
3.9 TURKEY: Wither Silk Carpets
3.10 OTHER SERICULTURE COUNTRIES:
Developing Sericulture.

ix
 3.11 EUROPE: Silk Converters and Consumers
3.12 USA: Supermarket for Silk
3.13 SILK: Global Demand v/s Production

4 SILKWORM REARING, COCOON AND 85

HARVESTING
4.1 Mulberry: Silkworm Food
4.2 Silkworm: From Egg to Larva
4.3 Development Silkworm Seed
4.4 Silkworm Rearing Operation
4.5 Silk Cocoon Harvesting
4.6 Rearing Rites, Rituals
4.7 Silkworm Diseases, Pests

5 MODERN SILK PROCESSING I 121

5.1 Quality of Cocoons
5.2 Silk Gland: How it develops and functions?
5.3 Composition of Silk Filament
5.4 Silkworm Spinning Cocoons
5.5 Cocoon shape, Size and Color
5.6 Cocoon Quality: Weight, Reelability and Denier
5.7 Cocoon Drying, Sorting and Storage
5.8 Cocoon Cooking and Brushing
5.9 Silk Reeling, Rereeling and Packaging
5.10 Raw Silk Testing and Grading
5.11 Waste Silk and Spuns
5.12 Spun Silk Manufacturing

6 MODERN SILK PROCESSING II 171

6.1 Weaving from Filament to Fabrics
6.2 Thrown Silk: Soaking, Doubling and Twisting
6.3 Weaving: Handlooms and Power Looms
6.4 Silk Finishing: Degumming, Bleaching, Weighting

x
 6.5 Silk Dyeing: Natural and Synthetic Dyes
6.6 Silk Processing and Ecology
6.7 Silk Knitting, Laces and Embroidery
6.8 Raw Silk, Glossed Silk Fabrics

7 ECOFRIENDLY WILD SILKS 211

7.1 Silk Benign and Healthy
7.2 Chinas Tussah Silk
7.3 Indias Non-mulberry Silks
7.4 Tasar Silk of India
7.5 Cotton Look Eri Silks
7.6 Indias Golden Yellow Muga Silk
7.7 Japans Yamamai Silk

8 SILK RESEARCH TECHNOLOGY UPDATE I 237

8.1 Japan: Intensive Research for Better Silk
8.2 Modernizing Mulberry Cultivation
8.3 Innovating Rearing Techniques
8.4 Research in Silk Production
8.5 Breakthrough in Silkworm Breeding

9 SILK RESEARCH TECHNOLOGY UPDATE II 255

9.1 Organizing Cocoon Harvest, Marketing
9.2 Korea: Emulates Japanese Model
9.3 China Streamlines Research Organization
9.4 India: Beginning for Bivoltines

10 GLOBAL MARKETING AND PROMOTION 294

10.1 World Raw Silk Trading
10.2 Trading Practices and Procedures
10.3 Markets for Silk Fabrics, Furnishing, Garments
10.4 Silk: Designers Choice
10.5 Chinese Crepe, Habutae and Twills
xi
 10.6 Indian Silk: Live Look
10.7 Famous Silk Weaves
10.8 International Silk promotion
10.9 International Silk Association Information
10.9 ISAs Information Network

11 SILK GLOSSARY 333

12 APPENDICES 353
I. ISA Raw Silk Testing and Classification
2. ISA Classification of Doupion Silk
3. Chinese Raw Silk Grading and Testing
Standards
4. ISA Members Particulars
5. Addresses of the Offices of different
Organizations/ Institutions of Silk Producing
Countries

SELECTED SILK BIBLIOGRAPHY 411

xii
 Global Textile Scenario 1

1 Global Textile Scenario

The 20th century ushered in revolutionary inventions in
science and technology and the global textile scenario too
underwent spectacular changes with advent of manmade
fibers during middle of the century. The world of textile
fibers, which had remained passive for three thousand
years, has been changing almost every year since middle of
the century. The change over from hard labor to mighty
machine during the Industrial Revolution, development of
cotton gin during the close of the 19th century, emergence of
rayon and astonishing development of manmade have
completely upset the traditional formulae which hitherto
operated the natural fiber industries.

1.1 Macro view of Fiber Scene

Natural textile fibers cotton, wool and silk dominated the

world textile market until mid-century. The beginning of
cellulose and synthetic fibers and their sudden spurt
changed the textile fiber consumption pattern overnight. The
post-war years review by Food and Agriculture Organization
(FAO) points out 52 per cent jump in the world consumption
of fibers during 1948-58 due to rise in population and better
living standards. During this post-war decade though the
usage of natural fibers rose substantially; cotton by 53 per
cent, wool by 70 per cent and silk over 100 per cent, the
newly emerged manmade over took all targets and its
consumption shot up by 2,000 per cent. Even the beginning
years of the 21st Century has not changed the rising trend of
manmade.

Though natural fibers have lost their share in global textile

fiber consumption, these fibers have successfully withstood
severe competition from manmade and by the beginning of
2 Global Silk Industry

the 21st century; their production and consumption are

slowly rising. The ecology conscious people in Europe and
USA are seeking natural textiles; cotton, wool and silk.
Manmade blended with cotton, wool or silk have gained
wide acceptance in the world market. The blends provide
comfort of natural fibers with properties of wash and wear
and durability of manmade. This trend has given boost to
production of cotton, silk and cellulose fibers dominated by
versatile modified rayon.

1.2 Natural Textiles Cotton

Cotton has been hailed as King of textile fibers and despite

manmade fibers rising over cotton production through
engineered chemical process, cotton continues to command
royal respect and is much sought after among consumers of
textiles the world over. Cotton has a long history dating to
3,000 B.C. with India claiming credit for origin of cotton. The
Greek historical Herodotus (484 B.C.) made the first
historical mention of cotton. He wrote after his trip to India,
There are trees in which fleece grew... and natives made
cloth. The ancient globetrotters, Marco Polo, Vasco-de-
Gama and Columbus too mentioned about weaving and
spinning of cotton and sheer silk in China and India. In the
following centuries cotton spread to east and west. It seems
Chinese developed spinning wheel and despite their efforts
of keeping it secret, cotton spinning spread to Japan and
elsewhere. Arabs took cotton craft to Spain and from there
cotton cultivation and spinning became popular all over
Europe. In America, Virginia claims credit for first cultivation
of cotton in USA in 1607.

Cotton, one of the worlds leading agricultural crops,

provides textile fibers for a wide range of uses from clothing
through home furnishings to fabrics for industrial uses.
 Global Textile Scenario 3

Cotton is most comfortable to wear, quite durable, resistant

to abrasion, washable and relatively inexpensive. Non-
woven cotton made by bonding of fibers together is
extensively used for disposable products like towels, tea
bags, tablecloths, bandages and disposable hospital sheets.
Modern textile finishes have made cotton crease resistant,
stain resistant and shrink resistant. Cotton is also ideal for
blending with manmade and other natural textile fibers.

World cotton production almost doubled within three

decades from 1930 to 1960s but since then the growth rate
staggered with manmade production making strides since
1970s. According to International Cotton Advisory
Committee (ICAC) the present production of cotton is
19,800,000 m. MT (2001), with China bagging lions share of
4, 000, 000 m. MT, USA 3, 750, 000 MT, India 2, 280, 000
m. MT followed by Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkey and others.
The main consumers are China 4, 700, 000 m. MT, India
2, 850, 000 m. MT and USA 2, 460, 000 m. MT. The total
global consumption which exceed production is estimated
around 19, 700, 000 m. MT during end of 1990s.
4 Global Silk Industry
Table - 1.1: Worldwide demand for Textile Fibers - 1992 to 2001 (Thousand Metric tons)

Type of fiber 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 2001

Cellulose fibers
695 699 667 684 667 ---.----
Yarn+Monofilament
Staple+TOW 1,631 11,634 1,670 1,789 1,614
Total Cellulose 2,327 2,334 2,337 2,473 2,282 2692
Synthetic fibers
7,973 8,395 9,164 9,862 10,319 9769
Yarn+Monofilament
Staple+TOW 8,188 8,190 8,795 8,619 9,348 9,475
Total Synthetic 16,161 16,585 17,958 18,482 19,667 19244
Total Manufactured 18,488 18,919 20,295 20,954 21,949 31,601
% of World Total 47% 48% 50% 51% 52% 53%
Natural Fibers
18,732 18,521 18,328 18,509 19,040 19,814
Raw Cotton
Raw Wool 1,702 1,657 1,555 1,472 1,442 1,180
Raw Silk 67 68 69 92 71 82
Total Natural 20,501 20,246 19,952 20,073 20,553 24908
% of World Total 53% 52% 50% 49% 48% 42%
World Total 38,989 39,165 40,247 41,027 42,502 59,201
World Total % 100 100 100 100 100 100
Source: Fiber Organon (June 2002)
 Global Textile Scenario 5

1.3 Wool and Worsted Fibers

Man discovered wool even earlier than cotton. Man hunted

the sheep both for food and clothing in the Stone Age, some
1, 75,000 years ago. Both sheep and wool seem to have
been introduced by Central Asia to Europe. The finest,
breed, the Phoenicians took Marino into Spain long before
the Christian era. The finer qualities of wool from Marino are
at present found in warm and dry regions of Australia, South
Africa and Argentina. The other breed of sheep wool, mostly
found in Asia is long wool type suitable for carpets and
mixed wool fabrics. Wool yarns are classified as woolen or
worsted types according to spinning method employed.
Woolen yarns are from short fibers loosely spun with little
twist; worsted yarns are smooth with higher twist and make
closely woven fabrics.

Like cotton, wool production rose mostly during the 20th

century reaching record production of 1,590,000MT raw
wool by 1970. But during 1970-90 wool production was
stagnant till 1993. The production declined over 3 per cent
from 1,657,000 m. MT in 1993 to 1,429,000 m. MT in 1997.
(Fiber Organon, June 1998) (Table 1.1). Wool and worsted
yarn are extensively used for clothing, blankets, carpets and
durries. The main fine quality wool producing countries are
Australia, Russia, New Zealand, Argentina and South Africa.
India, Pakistan, China, Middle East and North Africa are
suppliers of wool suitable for carpets and furnishings.
Leading consuming countries are European Union, United
States, Japan and Russia, though the woolen clothes are
also in demand in other countries in temperate regions.
6 Global Silk Industry

1.4 Era of Manmade Fibers

Manmade fibers are the result of mans urge to probe deep

into secrets of nature and make a small wonder by him. The
first man to visualize the possibility of manmade fiber by
imitating the silkworms spinning process was an English
scientist, Robert Hooke, who in 1664 put his imagination in a
book called Micrographia. The next man to carry forward
Hookers dream was a French scientist who in 1734
predicted that manmade fibers would be made from gums
and resins. A century elapsed, nothing happened. Again in
1845 an weaver named Louis Schwabe and the Swiss
chemist, C.F.Schonbein made news with the former fitting a
machine with a nozzle which forced out artificial fibers from
a liquid and the latter discovering nitrocellulose, a
preparatory step towards rayon manufacture.

It was however, let to the genius of Count Hilarire de

Chardonnet who produced first rayon from pulp made of
mulberry barks during middle of the nineteenth century. He
is known as Father of Rayon. The successful launching of
rayon in Europe and America gave necessary impetus to the
chemists and fiber technologists the world over and began a
feverish research activity to discover new manmade fibers.
A major triumph of mans efforts came during the 1930s
when nylon, a true synthetic fiber was developed by a
sheer accident in the laboratory of a well-known American
firm, E.I. Due Pont de Nemours. The firm had started
studies on polymerization: how and why certain small
molecules unite to form giant molecules such as those found
in rubber, cotton or silk. One of the chemists after
experimentation was trying to remove polymer from a vessel
and he found to his surprise that a fiber could be drawn from
that sticky tissue. Some more research undertaken to form
nylon, first called Polymer 66, and was placed in the market
 Global Textile Scenario 7

in 1938 as bristles in tooth brushes. Year later nylon hosiery

hit the textile fashion and within a year edged off silk from
the hosiery market and gradually nylon became a household
word the world over. The post-war period brought out a host
of several other true synthetic fibers, which can broadly be
put under three groups polyester, acrylic and polyvinyl
groups.

The basic method of manufacture of manmade fibers in its

crude form is the imitation of the silkworms spinning
system. There are three basic techniques of producing
manmade fibers, though all of them in a simple way forced a
chemical solution known as polymer through a spinneret, a
nozzle with tiny holes. A polymer is the union of simple
molecules or monomers into a giant molecule (macro-
molecule). The process is called polymerization. Thus all
fibers including natural ones are composed of molecules,
held together within a macro-molecule by the manmade
fibers, and represent mans attempt to arrange molecules in
the same way as nature arranges them and later converting
them into fibers by taking a clue from the silkworm, the
master spinner.

The manmade fibers are broadly classified into four groups:

(1) cellulose fibers, (2) synthetic fibers, (3) protein-base
fibers, and (4) inorganic fibers. The cellulose fibers include:
(a) viscose rayon, (b) cuprammonium rayon, and
(c) acetate. The synthetic fibers cover polyamide, polyester
and other true synthetic fibers. A host of new manmade
fibers have burst upon the world textile scene in recent
years. Fiber manufacturers and textile laboratories are
emerging with newer fiber concepts to meet wide range of
specific end-uses. Modern research and development work
on manmade fibers is the key to rising success and growing
versatility of manmade. In fact, the manmade fibers have
8 Global Silk Industry

given rise to almost a new textile technology by

revolutionalising almost every phase of textile production
from fiber-spinning through weaving and wet-processing to
marketing and after-sales service. There are several new
manmade fibers, which have come out of experimentation
recently claiming a measure of commercial success. New
concepts have emerged both among rayon and synthetic
fiber ranges.

The international trade in manmade fibers is divided into

three phases: the first phase covers the period from 1890
when rayon was first introduced to the world to early 1920s;
the second phase spreads through 1920s through end of
1930s the period marked with active commercialization of
rayon and the birth of true synthetic nylon in 1939. There
was a complete dislocation for about a decade from 1940 to
1949 with the Second World War destroying heavily the
fiber-producing capacity of Japan and Germany. The third
phase covers the post-war period from 1950 to the
beginning of 21st century the period of phoenix-like
resurgence of manmade fibers and their phenomenal rise to
the present world status.

Until 1920s the traditional practices of international textile

trade were based on cotton, wool and silk with cotton
playing the premier role seconded by wool. The cotton
production accounted over 85 per cent and wool 15 per cent
of the total global output. During the second phase this
conventional ratio changed. The process began in 1922
when rayon (92m.kg.) accounted for one per cent of the total
output; rayons share rose to two per cent by 1927, seven by
1935 and 12 per cent by 1940 a year when nylon was
added to rayon. During the Second World War the combined
output of rayon and nylon ranged between 12 and 15 per
cent of the world production of textile fibers. Its output was
 Global Textile Scenario 9

less than 1,200 m Kg a year. It was during the third phase

the post-war years which the manmade fibers blossomed
into versatile fibers. While rayon remained somewhat
stagnant, synthetic fibers diversified. Nylon introduced in
1939-40, shot to world popularity; and a host of other
synthetic fibers, including polyester and acrylic hit the
market.

1.5 Multifibers, Microfibers and Blends

The manmade fibers have opened up an era of multifibers

and ushered in a new textile philosophy of co-existence
among fibers. The tremendous rise of manmade, particularly
of non-cellulose fibers during the past fifty years has
completely revolutionized the traditional formulae, which
hitherto governed the world trade in fibers and fabrics. The
manmade fibers account for over 52 per cent of the total
world output of major textile fibers and surpass the natural
ones in both performance and economic values. But no
more manmade make a bid to compete with natural fibers;
on the contrary, through a new concept of blends the
manmade seek a harmonious development of all fibers to
meet the rising demand of fibers for clothing and industrial
uses. In fact, the time has arrived when manmade fibers are
no more grouped separately from the natural ones. All are
just fibers each playing its own role in meeting the world
demand.

The modern manmade fibers are blends two or more

different fibers blended before they are spun. There is a
difference between the intimate blending of two or more
fibers before they are spun into yarn and mixed yarn, in
which yarns spun from distinct fibers are combined by
weaving into a single fabric. The most popular manmade are
cotton-rayon, nylon-wool, nylon-cotton, polyester-cotton,
10 Global Silk Industry

polyester-wool and acrylic-wool. Then there are solution-

dyed or spun-dyed fibers, which are dyed before spinning.
Such colored fibers show remarkable resistance to fading
when exposed to sunlight or constant wear and washing. A
host of new manmade fibers with versatile properties are
entering into the global textile market each year. In recent
years microfibers with polyester blends have entered the
commercial fibers with silk look, but despite all efforts to
endow silk like look and silky touch, manmade have yet to
go a long way to meet the environment friendly and healthy
characteristics of natural fibers.

1.6 Silk Survives, Succeeds

Silk enters the 21st century as strong, smooth, much-sought-

after environment friendly, healthy (next to human skin)
textile fiber. Despite shrinking of sericulture in Japan and
Korea due to high cost industrialization and severe
competition from manmade, silk has not only survived but
has succeeded globally in raising its production and
demand. The world silk demand shot up from 68,000 MT in
1993 to over 86,000 MT in 1998 registering 21 per cent rise
within a span of five years (Courtesy International Silk
Association, Lyon). Though this a miniscule percentage of
world textile fiber production, silk continues to rule as
Queen of textile fibers, just as cotton is considered king of
fibers.

Though historical development and international trade in silk

is discussed in depth in the book, it is necessary to highlight
the salient features of silk development during close of the
century. There are three emerging trends, which have
completely changed the production and consumption pattern
of silk industry. First, Japan and Korea are gradually
abandoning sericulture due to high labor cost and pressure
 Global Textile Scenario 11

from high-tech industries, but China, India, Thailand and

Brazil seem successful in raising silk productivity and
production. The second important development is availability
of medium priced silk garments; crease-resistant silk
apparels, which are in big demand among middle class
professionals particularly women workers. The demand for
both high-priced and medium-priced silk garments continue
to rise due to growing concern for protecting environment,
particularly among industrial countries which are even
prohibiting use of certain chemicals, dyes and prefer natural
to chemical fibers. Thus natural textiles cotton and silk are
witnessing a new era of global demand, which may sharply
rise in the next millennium.

The Secretary General of the International Silk Association

(ISA) forecasts rising global demand for silk and points out
factors behind the rise: (i) New Concept: Until 1980s silk
was worn only for special occasions but silk is no more a
luxury or ceremonial dress; it is now a casual wear, and
even sportswear; (ii) New products: This includes thermal
wear, sportswear, undergarments, shirting and crease-
resistant fabrics. The sand-washed garments which were
popular during mid 1990s have lost their share in the
market; (iii) New Prices: Silk was hitherto confined to a small
affluent minority but thanks to new industrial production
methods and economy of scale, combined with low wages in
many developing countries, prices of silk have come down
during 1990s; (iv) New Channels of Distributions; silk, no
more an exclusive product for high-priced boutiques, has
now become more visible and touchable on the shelves of
the super markets and departmental stores; (v) New
Consumers: Silk was confined mostly to womens wear and
men could expect at the most a silk tie. Now men can find
shirts, jerkins, socks, T-shirts, shorts and few other items,
which are exclusively made from natural silk.
12 Global Silk Industry

According to ISA Secretary General a large scale import of

silk garments have not captured the market share once
held by traditional products but have created a new market
in which silk was never present in any appreciable
quantities. Though there are no in-depth market studies on
this aspect, he feels it seems unlikely that there has been a
transfer of consumers from traditional up-market, luxury
products to inexpensive everyday products. Thus France,
Italy and Switzerland continue to process raw silk to turn out
most expensive scarves, ties and women wear for high
fashion aristocratic clients. Even in Asia, though Japanese
kimono has lost its appeal among young ones, the silk
consumption has shot up with Japanese going for western
clothing. In India, traditional silk sari continues to hold its
sway over women, both young and old for ceremonial wear,
the young generation loves silk as dress material.

The wave of sand-washed silk garments seems to have

ebbed in Europe and USA and several silk lovers did call
this development as vulgarization and condemned the flood
of cheap silk garments as damaging the queenly status of
silk. Even some purists also condemn the growing concept
of silk blends. But such fears are not likely to lower the
prestigious position of silk. It is the quality of the product
which will make people continue to buy silk, according to
ISA, which feels quality can be guaranteed with adoption of
ISO 9000 standards, which are designed to offer the
consumer guaranteed performance and quality.

The future of silk through the 21st century seems quite

bright. Though consumption is likely to rise despite its high
prices, the question mark is whether the silk production will
keep pace with the shooting demand. Japan is foremost in
silk consumption; Chinese enjoying high standard of living
are also boosting demand for silk within the country and
 Global Textile Scenario 13

almost 85 per cent of rising silk production in India is

consumed within the country and has to import up to 5,000
MT every year to meet shortfall in demand. The ecology
factor is pushing demand for silk in Europe and USA. And
the Middle East Arabs adore silk for the flowing robes,
prayer mats and carpets. The global production during the
twenty-first century may not rise and with the spread of
industrialization and shortage of farm labor, the availability
of natural fibers may shrink substantially. In fact, during
1998, the global production of cotton is reported to have
declined 6 per cent and wool production seems to have
dropped by two per cent. The fiber trend also covers silk.
The worldwide natural fiber survey by Fiber Organon
(December 1998) reports that the future global growth
impacts appear to be dependent on technical
breakthroughs, perhaps from genetic engineering leading to
high yield per acre and a more competitive cost position
versus synthetic fibers. China, the worlds leading silk
producer continues to lose its mulberry acreage, cocoon
production and is not able to raise its raw silk output. Brazil
is also witnessing stagnant silk production. India and
Thailand produce mainly multivoltine silk and raw silk not
suitable for automatic reeling. Unless Indias recent success
in producing bivoltine silk in tropical climate succeed
commercially and quickly covers most of silk producing
regions in the country, there is no hope of higher silk
production during the century.

The purity and sanctity of silk can be best promoted through

introduction of silk mark and promotion campaigns. This is
also ISA recommendation; it deplores lack of promotion for
silk even while advertising high-priced haute couture
dresses. It is necessary for ISA to evolve a joint strategy for
silk promotion with worlds top fashion designers and large
departmental stores marketing their high priced silk