Defects landing shoulder products

and their elimination

In its work, the tailors are often faced with the shortcomings
of landing products. We have already given you advice on
eliminating inaccuracies fit skirts and pants, and now
consider in detail the causes of the garments fit defects.
Proper planting garments - be it dresses, jackets or coats,
primarily determined by the balance of the major joints -
shoulder seams must comply with the shoulder lines, side -
line side, the traveling seam should be positioned exactly at
the waist (with the exception of products with a low or high
waist) . Needless product should sit on the figure so that
primarily provide comfort movements of its owner. The
product must not form unwanted creases or folds, and in
case of their availability, and any other similar defects to be
eliminated during fittings.

In some cases, the product may occur the folds and

creases?
IMPORTANT! In this case we are talking about planting
defects, not the creases provided shaped articles.
Horizontal creases may occur if the product item is too
excessive length in the vertical direction or the horizontal
width shortage direction. In the first case, the nature of the
folds will be soft, free, in the second - the folds are formed
due to the horizontal fabric tension.

Vertical fold up to the contrary, parts occur when excessive

width in the horizontal direction or insufficient vertical length
thereof.

Inclined folds may result from shortening, lengthening or

constricted details on one side.
Eliminate most of these defects are better at pre-fitting on
the probe products. If for some reason you do not plan to
sew the probe, it is recommended to make the increased
seam allowances on average seam back, shoulder seams,
armholes, allowance on the bottom of the product.

narrow back
With such defects form horizontal pleats in the back, the
fabric is stretched, the product holds down movements.
 Fig. 1. Narrow rest
How to fix?
The defect is eliminated due allowance for the middle back
seam. Fan the middle seam and increase the width of the
backrest to the desired distance. To back width is not
increased by the waist and hips, zauzte back on the side
seam on armhole to the bottom line.

Be sure to check up cut-back neckline, it should not be

increased, because it may be another defect - the collar will
fall from the neck.

Fig. 1a. Remedy defect narrow back

Wide back
With this defect occurs along a horizontal fold back, is clearly
visible excess tissue.
 Fig. 2. Wide rest
How to fix?
Thrust back middle seam and remove the excess fabric in the
seam.You may also need adjustment line armholes (too
broad back). With little excess fabric can help sutyuzhivanie
fabric on the back.

Fig. 2a. Eliminating a broad rest of the defect

The oblique folds in the armhole
This defect may be due to an imbalance of the product,
zakazchitsa shoulder inclination angle discrepancy figures tilt
the shoulder seam on the pattern. Required adjustment of
inclination of the shoulder joint.

Fig. 3. The oblique folds on the back armhole

 Fig. 4. Oblique folds armhole forehand
How to fix?
It is necessary to adjust the back shoulder line. To do this,
specify the value at which wrinkles disappear down the back
shoulder. Adjust the slope of the back shoulder. Similarly,
adjust the slope of the forehand shoulder (Fig. 4a).

If such a defect occurs as a result of the asymmetry of shape

(there are differences in the right and left shoulder height),
you can use the shoulder pad or increase the thickness of
one of them.
Fig. 3a. Adjusting the backrest tilt arm
 Fig. 4a. Adjusting arm inclination forehand
If the shape has square shoulders, the reverse situation may
occur in which the need to be raised and the shoulder in the
back (Fig. 4b). You may also need to adjust the depth of the
armhole (see. Fig. 4a).
Ad hidden.

Fig. 4b. Adjustment of shoulder tilt with the forehand straight shoulders

Oblique creases at the side seams

Creases are formed on the side seams, fabric rolls, as it
were, there is excess tissue in the hips. Such a defect may
occur as a result of errors in the construction of
patterns. Correct it should be on the probe products, and
then make a change in the pattern (Fig. 5a-6a).

Fig. 5. Oblique creases at the side back seams

 Fig. 6. Oblique creases at the side seams forehand
How to fix?
Lay horizontal crease on the side Backrest below the
armholes. Keep the fold to the center of the back. Mark the
line folds small, cut along the planned lines and adjust the
pattern pieces. Is folded over the front of the desired depth,
reduce it to the center of the shelf. Correct patterns and
again make a fitting.
Fig. 5a-6a. Solving oblique creases on the back and the front of the pattern and the adjustment

Flooring products diverge downwards

With this defect differ floors down below the chest line, with
oblique wrinkles may appear.
Fig. 7. Flooring products diverge downwards
How to fix?
Lower the shoulder line of the shelf to the desired height to
floor did not disperse. Adjust the pattern, and adjust if
necessary the line armholes.

This defect can occur due to incorrect implementation of WTO

tissue - the floor can be stretched. In this case the situation
can correct sutyuzhivanie alongside length.
Fig. 7a. Remedy defect divergent floor
The floors come at each other
With this defect floors go on one another at an angle, the
product is distorted, there is no overlapping on the mid-line
forehand.
Fig. 8. The floors come at each other
How to fix?
Correct this defect can be due to increased allowances for the
shoulder seams. Mark stitch the collar must be moved to the
appropriate length. Perform a new shoulder line. After
adjustment make the fitting and check the bottom line and
the depth of the armhole.
Fig. 8a. The floors come at each other - the elimination of the defect
short rest
There are vertical creases, discomfort in the back area, the
waist line and the bottom line of products turned-up
upwards.
 Fig. 9. short rest
How to fix?
Cut the pattern below the line armholes, and open to the
desired length. If you have already carved out a product, and
you have enough width allowances on the shoulder and a
traveling slice can be reconstructed back, lengthening to the
measure.

Fig. 9a. Remedy defect "short rest"

The long rest

With such a defect occurs, horizontal folds, waist line is lower
than it should.
 Fig. 10. The long rest
How to fix?
Cut the pattern below the line armholes and apply the cut
parts with each other to the desired length. You can also shorten
the bottom back and rebuild the middle line and back sides.

Fig. 10a. Remedy defect "long rest"