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Industrial Textiles

Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics

Feng Ji, Ruqin Li and Yiping Qiu
Journal of Industrial Textiles 2006 35: 201
DOI: 10.1177/1528083706055753

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping
Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics
FENG JI,* RUQIN LI AND YIPING QIU
Key Laboratory of Textile Science and Technology
Ministry of Education, China
College of Textiles, Donghua University
Shanghai, 200051, P.R. China

ABSTRACT: In this article a practical mass-spring system was developed to

simulate the draping of woven and knitted fabrics. The material properties important
to fabric drape, including aerial density, tensile, shear, and bending properties were
measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System and the experimental data were
incorporated into the mass-spring model to simulate the dynamic draping behavior
of a few selected woven and knitted fabrics. The draping of a garment made of the
corresponding five types of fabrics was simulated as well. It was found in dynamic
draping simulation that the selected knitted fabrics experience more deformation
with smoother appearance than the woven fabrics due to their lower bending and
shear moduli.

KEY WORDS: fabric drape, woven fabric, knitted fabric, garment drape, dynamic
drape simulation.

INTRODUCTION

of the most important properties of apparel fabrics; it is

D RAPE IS ONE
directly related to textile aesthetics, which is crucial for the develop-
ment and selection of textile materials in the apparel industry. The draping
behavior of fabrics reproduced by computer simulation holds great

*Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.

E-mail: jifeng76@mail.dhu.edu.cn

JOURNAL OF INDUSTRIAL TEXTILES, Vol. 35, No. 3January 2006 201

1528-0837/06/03 020115 $10.00/0 DOI: 10.1177/1528083706055753
2006 SAGE Publications
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202 F. JI ET AL.

potential for the design and analysis of textiles, product development and
marketing, as well as mass customization efforts in the apparel business.
Three-dimensional (3D) fabric and garment drape simulations are now
possible due to the development of computer technology.
The draping of fabrics, primarily woven fabrics, has been thoroughly
explored. One of the earliest studies in this area was done by Weil [13]
who used purely geometric equations to model a sheet similar to the fabric.
Another kind of approach uses the physically based cloth models mainly
including finite element models [4,11] and particle system models
[2,3,5,6,10]. Among these models, the mass-spring model has proved to
be a powerful tool. Breen et al. [3] proposed a particle system approach
together with an energy minimization process to simulate the draping of
woven fabrics, while Provot et al. [10] used a force-based method to
calculate the 3D shape of a draping fabric represented by a mass-spring
grid. After that, the mass-spring model has been modified and developed
by several other authors [2,5,6]. All these papers have a sophisticated
simulation part in order to calculate the trajectories of the masses.
Knitted fabrics have been more and more widely used for outerwear such
as dresses and sportswear. Consequently, the drapeability of knitted fabrics
has attracted more and more attention. To model knitted fabrics, various
investigations have been carried out, most of which were based on the
micro-mechanics of knitted structures, mainly the loop structure [1,9].
However, since there exist so many kinds of knitted structures, it is
impossible to build a general model applicable for every kind of knitted
fabric based on a single loop structure. In addition, existing models based on
a single loop structure are difficult to apply in practice when used to
simulate the draping behavior of the entire fabric or garment, due to their
complexity and heavy computation. For this kind of model, detection of
the collision between threads within a fabric is also an exhausting task.
Therefore, a general and flexible model suitable for simulating the draping
of most types of knitted fabrics is needed.
In this article, a practical mass-spring model is used to describe and
simulate the dynamic draping behavior of selected woven and knitted
fabrics. The material properties important to fabric draping are measured
using the Kawabata Evaluation system (KES) [8] and the experimental
data are incorporated into the simulation to calculate internal forces,
based on which the draping behavior of a particular type of the fabric
is demonstrated dynamically. Five different types of fabrics includ-
ing two woven fabrics and three knitted fabrics are tested and
simulated. The simulation results of fabrics and garments are presented
and discussed.

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 203

THE MASS-SPRING SYSTEM TO MODEL WOVEN

AND KNITTED FABRICS

Geometric Structure

The cloth model is constructed by a particle grid or mass grid with two
principal directions representing the warp and weft directions respectively.
Each mass is linked to its neighbors by massless springs that are classified
into three types according to the relative positions of two end masses [10]:
(a) structural springs connecting each mass with its adjacent non-diagonal
masses and serving to resist planar stretching/compression deformation in
warp and weft directions, (b) shear springs connecting each mass with its
adjacent diagonal masses and serving to resist shearing deformation, and
(c) bend springs connecting each mass with its neighbors in every other row
in warp and weft directions and serving to resist bending deformation. In
the model, the thickness factor is not solely put forward, yet its influence to
fabric drape has been represented through the fabric aerial density and
bending properties.
Each particle moves according to the basic Newtons law:

Fij maij , 1

Equation (1) is integrated over time by an explicit Euler method. The force
Fij is divided into two parts: the internal force and the external force:

Fij Fint i, j Fext i, j: 2

For particle Pij, the external force Fext(i, j) is calculated as:

Fext i, j Fgra i, j Fair i, j Fwind i, j Fbump i, j, 3

where Fgra(i, j) mg is the gravity, Fair(i, j)
Cvisvij comes from air

damping, Fwind(i, j) is the wind force as proposed by Young et al. [14],
and the force Fbump(i, j) is used to resolve collisions [7].
The internal forces are induced by the deformation of the springs and
applied to any particle Pij by all springs connecting this particle to its
neighbors:
X X X
Fint i, j Fspr struc i, j Fspr shear i, j Fspr bend i, j, 4
n n n

where Fspr_struc, Fspr_shear, and Fspr_bend are the forces induced by

deformation of the structural, shear and bend springs connected to the

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204 F. JI ET AL.

particle and n is either 2 when the particle is located at a corner or 3 when

the particle is located along the borders, or 4 otherwise. The mechanical
behavior of a cloth in response to external forces is different for fabrics with
different material and structural properties. Therefore, different fabrics
should be represented by different stressstrain behaviors of all three
types of springs used in our model. The calculation of the three kinds of
spring-forces from the experimental data will be introduced in the next
section.
In the cloth-modeling field, the mass-spring system has been used mainly
to model woven fabrics and each mass conceptually represents one crossing
point of warp and filling yarns [3]. However, in practical operation, each
mass point is actually designed to represent a square area of r  r to acquire
a tractable process for existing computer software. Here r is much larger
than the distance between two neighboring yarns in the fabric.
In this article, the mass-spring model is developed to model knitted
fabrics as well as woven fabrics. A knitted fabric is described as a mass-
spring grid with each mass point representing an r  r square area of the
fabric, where r must be much larger than the height and width of a knitted
loop. Therefore, the draping behavior of knitted fabrics can be simulated in
the same way as that of woven fabrics.

Parameterize the Mass-Spring Model to Represent

One Particular Type of Fabrics

The experimental data reflecting the mechanical properties of a particular

kind of cloth come mainly from the KES tests. And the mechanical
properties of each kind of spring are derived from the stressstrain
behaviors exhibited during KES tests. Then the internal force or spring
force can be calculated as a function of the corresponding geometric
deformation parameters.
To incorporate the experimental data from the KES curves, we first made
two main assumptions. Firstly, the planar compression behavior of a fabric
is assumed to follow a stressstrain curve in the same shape as the
corresponding stretching curve but symmetrical to the origin. That is
because the in-plane compression property of a fabric may not be accurately
tested due to the nature of fibrous assemblies that buckle easily under a very
small compression load. Thus the compression stiffness works to prevent the
virtual fabric from unreasonable shrinking. Secondly, the front-side and
back-side bending properties of the modeled woven and double-knitted
fabrics are considered to be the same. This is based on the fact that many
experiments have proved that the front-side and the back-side bending

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 205

curves are almost symmetrical around the origin for most woven and
double-knitted apparel fabrics [12].
During the KES tensile test, when the tensile force is exerted, the
structural springs in the loading direction are assumed to be uniformly
loaded according to St. Venants principle. Therefore, the stressstrain
property of a structural spring is calculated by assuming that the external
tensile force is evenly shared among the structural springs along the tension
direction.
According to the above assumptions, the tensile forces of the structural
springs can be calculated. For example, for a warp-structural spring, the
magnitude of its tensile force fspr_str_warp is calculated as:






fKES str warp

 l  kstr gstr  l  kstr
warp e

fspr str


warp , 5
l=r 1 l=r 1

where kstr is the scale coefficient used to conform all the units. The values of
| fKES_str_warp| gstr_warp(e) are obtained from the KES warp-tensile plot.
The shear deformation in fabric draping cannot be coplanar and regular
as it is normally defined; instead it is accompanied by buckling and bending
deformations. Thus the four particles constructing the local quadrangle in
our model commonly take on the shape of an irregular triangular pyramid.
This complicates the calculation of shear force and shear angle normally
defined to describe a pure in-plane shear deformation. To handle this
situation, the shear deformation of the local quadrangle is represented by
the stretching/contracting of two shear springs. Thus the 3D problem is
simplified into two 1D problems.
To derive the stressstrain property of these shear springs, the fabric
specimen is tensile tested using the KES system along 45 to the warp
direction. Thus the resulting plot is closely related to the stressstrain
relationship of the shear springs. When the stressstrain relationship of
| fKES_sh| gsh(e) is obtained from the KES test plot, the relationship
between the force and the strain of a shear spring is as follows:






fKES sh
 l  ksh gsh e  l  ksh

fspr sh

p
p , 6
l= 2=2  r 1 l= 2=2  r 1

where ksh is the scale coefficient used to conform all the units.
When the fabric is tensioned along 45 off the warp or weft direction, the
shear springs contribute mostly to the resistance to the deformation, while
the structural springs are simply rotated instead of being extended within the
range of the deformation under consideration in this model. Likewise, when

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206 F. JI ET AL.

a fabric is tensile loaded, the contribution of shear springs to the resistance

to the tensile deformation can be neglected.
In this model, any locally bent fabric segment is described using a curved
bend spring that lies in the plane formed by three consecutive neighboring
particles along a warp yarn or a weft yarn as shown in Figure 1(a). Taking
a warp-bend spring A1A2 as an example (Figure 1(b)), during fabric draping,
it bends into an arch and the three neighboring particles of A1, A2,
and A3 form a spatial triangle. The resultant plane is perpendicular to
the corresponding local segment of the fabric. Thus the specimens
local bending curvature is identical to that of the bend spring, which is
evaluated as:

2 sin
2 sin 
K , 7
k  jA1 A2 j k  jA1 A2 j

and the bending moment of the bend spring A1A2 is:

Mspr warp fspr bend warp  k  jA1 A3 j sin : 8

From KES bending plot the relationship of |Mwarp| gbend_warp(K)  l was

obtained. Then with Equations (7) and (8), the force fspr_bend_warp induced
by the deformation of a warp-bend spring is calculated as:

gbend warp 2 sin =k  jA1 A2 j  l

fspr bend warp

, 9
k  jA1 A3 j  sin   l=r 1

and the direction of the force is along the line of A1A2.

A3

A1 q A2
A3 b
A1 A2 a r
a
O
a

(a) (b)
FIGURE 1. Calculation of the bend-spring force: (a) a bent fabric segment related to
a bend spring A1A2 and (b) the calculation process.

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 207

It has to be pointed out here that for all three types of stressstrain
behaviors of the fabric, there will be an effect of hysteresis. In most of the
mass-spring systems, this effect has been omitted due to the fact that the
deformations involved in free draping processes are usually rather small
and thus the hysteresis effect is also assumed to be insignificant. According
to our observation, the difference in strain at the same stress level will be
around or less than 0.5% between the loading and the unloading curves
below the maximum strain level involved in the simulated free draping
process. However, this effect may still influence the accuracy of the
simulation results using this type of model. In future publications from the
authors, this problem will be solved.

SIMULATION OF FABRICS AND GARMENTS

Five different types of fabrics (S1S5) were tested and simulated. Their
physical and structural properties are presented in Tables 1 and 2 and their
KES warp-tensile curves are presented in Figure 2.
In general, when a fabric is tensile tested, the initial stage of the test
includes a process of crimp interchange in which the yarns in the loading
direction are uncrimped or unbent, while the transverse yarns are more
crimped or bent. Once this process is over, the yarns in the loading direction
will be stretched. Therefore a typical stressstrain curve of a fabric includes
mainly three phases [15]. The initial phase is a relatively high-modulus
period during which the fibers in the yarns have to overcome the inter-fiber

Table 1. The physical properties of the woven fabric samples.

Fabric count (num/cm)

Fabric Structure Component Warp Weft Weight (g/m2)

S1 Plain woven Cotton 22 24 162.2

S2 1/2 twills Polyester 23 15 220.6

Table 2. The physical properties of the knitted fabric samples.

Stitch density (num/cm)

Fabric Structure Component Wales Courses Weight (g/m2)

S3 Interlock knitting Cotton 13 19 238.0

S4 Fancy weft knitting Polyester 16 22 79.5
S5 Tricot stitch Polyester 13 19 127.1

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208 F. JI ET AL.

FIGURE 2. The KES warp-tensile curves of five selected fabric specimens.

friction to move as close to the neutral axis as possible and the yarn bending
stiffness is the largest. This period is almost unperceivable for most knitted
fabrics due to their relatively loose structure. The second phase is a low-
modulus region when the fibers in the yarns move to their new location close
to the neutral axis. However, for knitted fabrics, the crimp interchange
process does not exist. Instead, the yarns constructing the loops are
straightened along tension direction with little extension of the yarns
themselves. The characteristic action during the third period is the extension
of the yarns along the loading direction and thus this period is again a high-
modulus region. Nevertheless, for most types of fabrics, the tensile data in
the third region are rarely used when they drape under self-weight and small
external forces.
In this study, a rectangular cloth of 50  60 cm2 draping freely in a gentle
wind is simulated. The cloth is constructed by a uniform grid of 51  61
particles each representing 1  1 cm2 area of the cloth. During the process of
draping, the cloth is first horizontally flattened and then released with
one border of 50 cm fixed. Figure 3 presents the simulated pictures each
representing one of the five kinds of cloths when they are draped in the same
physical environments. The pictures were captured at the same time point
of t 15 s.
In order to describe the dynamic internal deformation of the cloth during
its draping under self-weight, the increasing rate of the summed area of all

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 209

S1 S2 S3 S4 S5
FIGURE 3. The dynamic draping behavior of five selected fabrics hanging in the
wind.

25
S1 face strain
20 S1 linear strain
Face strain (%)

S3 face strain
S3 linear strain
15

10

0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32
Time (s)
FIGURE 4. The face strain and linear strain as a function of time during the draping
process of the fabrics S1 and S3.

triangles composing the fabric sheet is calculated as a function of time to

represent the dynamic face strain of the cloth, and the average strain of all
structural springs is calculated to represent the dynamic 1D strain of the
cloth. The calculated results for all these five kinds of fabrics prove that the
face strain and linear strain are closely related, that is, the magnitude of face
strain is about twice as much as the linear strain at each moment for each
cloth. Figure 4 shows this relationship of face strain and 1D strain during
fabric draping taking the S1 and S3 fabrics as examples. Therefore, either
the face strain or internal 1D strain can be used to represent the dynamic
internal deformation of the cloth during draping under self-weight. Figure 5
presents the curves of face strain versus time during drape simulation of the
five fabrics.
A hybrid physical-geometrical process is proposed to simulate the
garments based on our mass-spring system. First, the body data are
obtained from a 3D body scan, and the garment points are then obtained by

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210 F. JI ET AL.

25

20 S3
Face Strain (%)

15

10
S2 S5 S4
S1
5

0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32
Time (s)
FIGURE 5. The face strain as a function of time in drape simulation of five selected
fabrics of S1S5.

calculating the offset values between body surface and the garment [16].
These 3D garment points form a spatial mesh in which each vertex is taken
as a mass point, and any two adjacent particles are connected with one kind
of spring. Then the mass-spring grid is animated over time by calculating the
positions of each mass under gravity, air damping, and wind force at
consecutive time points. The calculation of mass-weight and spring-forces of
the virtual garment made of one type of fabric follows the same way as that
used in calculation of those of the same fabric.
During the process of garment animation, a method of minimal enclosure
is applied to check the clothbody and clothcloth collisions, and a bumping
force is used to modify the velocity of the colliding particles so as to resolve
collisions [7]. In this study, one style of garment is simulated; it is made of
the above five fabrics respectively and animated in the same environmental
conditions. The simulation results are presented in Figure 6 with all the
pictures being captured at the same time point. It should be stressed that for
this garment style, the bodice of the garment fits so close to the body that no
wrinkles are revealed; while the draped lower skirt presents rich wrinkles
that visually demonstrate the draping behavior of a particular type of the
fabric.

DISCUSSION

The draping of a fabric or a garment is a synthetic result of components,

structures, finishing processes, and particularly the environment. That is

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 211

S1 S2 S3 S4 S5
FIGURE 6. The simulated results of one garment style made of the corresponding five
selected fabrics.

why the draping tests for most fabrics are strictly unrepeatable; instead they
depend on a large amount of experimental work and statistical analysis.
However, in virtual environments, so long as the properties of a fabric and
the external forces are defined, the draping process is repeatable. In this
sense, the simulated fabric can be more typical to reflect the characteristic
draping behavior of a fabric.
The movement of the mass-spring system in the environments with
gravity and a gentle wind can just be considered similar to an oscillation
motion, during which the energy of the system transforms mainly between
the particles kinetic and/or potential energy and the springs strain energy.
The amount of total energy is determined by the mass and the position or
the potential of the particles. Starting from the same initial position, the
heavier the particles, the larger the amount of the total energy of the draping
system.
When the fabric is released from a horizontally flat state, the potential
energy of the particles decreases and is transformed into the particles
kinetic energy, which is in turn transformed into the springs strain energy.
Once the strain energy reaches the highest point or at the wave peaks in
Figure 5, the total kinetic energy reaches a minimum and then begins to
increase, while the strain energy decreases. Likewise, when the strain energy
reaches the minimum points or at the valleys of the waves in Figure 5, the
total kinetic energy reaches a maximum. A small amount of energy is lost
due to air damping and internal friction. At last, the mass-spring system
reaches a relatively stable waving state.
It is well known in physics, for a simple vibrator constructed by a particle
and a spring, its vibrating frequency ( f ) is determined by the mass (m) of the

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212 F. JI ET AL.

particle and the stiffness (k) of the spring:

r
1 k
f : 10
2 m

Although our mass-spring system is far more complex than this simple
vibrator, its waving frequency is greatly influenced by the mass of the
particles and the stiffness of the springs. As seen in Figure 5, the fabric S3
presents the smallest frequency, because it is the heaviest and the softest
fabric among the five fabrics. For two woven fabrics, S1 is much lighter, yet
obviously softer than S2. Consequently, the compromise of the mass factor
and the stiffness factor results in their rather similar waving frequencies and
magnitudes. The same is true for those two knitted fabrics, S4 and S5, as
shown in Figure 5.
The woven fabrics S1 and S2 are much stiffer than the knitted fabrics S4
and S5. Thus with the same initial potential energy, the average strain of the
two woven fabrics should be much smaller than that of the knitted fabrics
(about half as shown in Figure 5). Furthermore, because the woven fabrics,
S1 and S2, are significantly heavier than the two knitted fabrics, S4 and S5,
they have somewhat larger swings in the draping process than the knitted
fabrics.
While animated in the same environmental conditions, the knitted
fabrics exhibit finer and more delicate wrinkles demonstrating their
softer bending and shear properties than the two woven fabrics (see
Figures 3 and 6).

CONCLUSIONS

A mass-spring system is used to describe woven and knitted fabrics. The

material properties important to fabric draping are measured using the
Kawabata fabric evaluation system and the experimental data are
incorporated into the system to calculate internal forces, so that the draping
behavior of a particular type of fabric can be dynamically demonstrated.
The simulation results prove that this system can reasonably reproduce
the dynamical draping behavior of the selected woven and knitted fabrics.
In dynamic simulation, it was found that the knitted fabrics have more
deformation but smoother appearance than the woven fabrics due to their
lower bending and shear moduli. Due to the greatly reduced amount of
computer calculation, this approach may lead to a virtual fabric and
garment show through the internet.

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 Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 213

NOMENCALTURE

Cvis air damping coefficient (N s/m)

e tensile strain
fij sum of all forces applied to particle Pij (N)
fKES_sh KES measured tensile stress at 45 to the warp
direction (cN/cm)
fKES_str_warp, fKES_str_weft KES measured tensile stresses in warp and weft
directions respectively (cN/cm)
fspr_bend_warp, fspr_bend_weft forces acting on two end particles induced
by deformation of a warp-bend spring and a
weft-bend spring respectively (cN)
fspr_sh tensile force induced by deformation of a shear
spring (cN)
fspr_str_warp, fspr_str_weft tensile forces induced by deformation of a warp-
structural spring and weft-structural spring
respectively (cN)
g acceleration due to gravity (m/s2)
i, j particle indices representing the position of the
particle in the grids along the warp and weft
directions respectively
K curvature of a bend spring (1/cm)
k scale coefficient of real length to virtual length
l effective specimen width (mm)
m mass of a cloth particle (kg)
Mspr_warp, Mspr_weft bending moments of a warp-bend spring and a
weft-bend spring respectively (cN cm)
Mwarp, Mweft bending moments per unit length of specimen in
the warp and weft directions respectively
(cN cm/cm)
pij(t), vij(t), aij(t) position, velocity, and acceleration of the mass
Pij at time t
r side length of a square cloth a mass
represents (mm)

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16. Zhang, R. and Li, R. (2000). Study of 3D Mannequin and Garment Modeling in
Garment CAD, Journal of China Textile University (Eng. Ed.), 17(3): 6064.

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Simulate the Dynamic Draping Behavior of Woven and Knitted Fabrics 215

Dr. Feng Ji, Assistant Professor at the College of

Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai, P.R.
China. She received her PhD in September 2005
from Donghua University. Her investigative work
has been focused on the test, estimation and
physically-based simulation of fabric draping
style. Dr. Ji and her team are now working on
the development of methods characterizing textile
products and instrumentation of textile testing.

Downloaded from jit.sagepub.com at PENNSYLVANIA STATE UNIV on February 28, 2013