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LUMBER The terms "wood" "lumber," and "timber" are often spoken of or

written in ways to suggest that their meanings are alike or nearly so. But in the
Builders language, the terms have distinct, separate meanings. Wood is the hard,
fibrous substance that forms the major part of the trunk and branches of a tree.
Lumber is wood that has been cut and surfaced for use in construction work. Timber
is lumber that is 5 inches or more in both thickness and width.

SEASONING OF LUMBER Seasoning of lumber is the result of removing


moisture from the small and large cells of wood drying. The advantages of
seasoning lumber are to reduce its weight; increase its strength and resistance
to decay; and decrease shrinkage, which tends to avoid checking and warping
after lumber is placed. A seldom used and rather slow method of seasoning
lumber is air-drying in a shed or stacking in the open until dry. A faster method,
known as kiln drying, has lumber placed in a large oven or kiln and dried with heat,
supplied by gas- or oil-fired burners. Lumber is considered dry enough for most uses
when its moisture content has been reduced to about 12 or 15 percent. As a Builder,
you will learn to judge the dryness of lumber by its color, weight, smell, and feel.
Also, after the lumber is cut, you will be able to judge the moisture content by
looking at the shavings and chips.

DEFECTS AND BLEMISHES A defect in lumber is any flaw that tends to affect the
strength, durability, or utility value of the lumber. A blemish is a flaw that mars only
the appearance of lumber. However, a blemish that affects the utility value of
lumber is also considered to be a defect; for example, a tight knot that mars the
appearance of lumber intended for fine cabinet work. Various flaws apparent in
lumber are listed in the table below.

http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14043/css/14043_67.htm
Reasons for air drying wood
http://extension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/forestry/g05550.htm

There are many reasons for drying wood. Four main reasons include:

To increase dimensional stability. Wood shrinks across the grain (not along
the grain) when it dries. If wood is cut to size before it is seasoned, it will
shrink during drying and thus be undersized in its final form.
To reduce or eliminate attack by decay or stain. Wood that is dried below 20
percent moisture content is not susceptible to decay or sap staining.
To reduce the weight. The weight of lumber will be reduced by 35 percent or
more by removing most of the water in the wood or, as we say, by
"seasoning."
To increase the strength. As wood dries, the stiffness, hardness and strength of
the wood increases. Most species of wood increase their strength
characteristics by 50 percent or more during the process of drying to 15
percent moisture content.

Piling lumber for air drying

The objective of air drying wood is to remove the water in wood by exposing all
surfaces of each piece of wood to circulating air. In Missouri, wood can be air dried to
a minimum of about 15 percent moisture content, provided the drying time is
sufficiently long. It is also necessary to support the wood during drying to prevent the
lumber from warping during the drying process. Lumber is piled in a special way to
maximize the surface exposure of each piece of lumber to the air and at the same time
to support each piece so it will dry straight and without unnecessary warping.

The first consideration is to prepare a strong foundation, 1 to 2 feet above the ground,
on which to pile the lumber. The ground beneath the foundation should be kept free of
vegetation or debris that would hinder air circulation under the pile.

Your lumber probably will be cut in random lengths and widths. For best results, pile
each course so that each board within a layer is well supported and does not protrude
at either end of the pile (Figure 1).

This system of piling is called "box piling" and has proven to be the best method of
piling random length lumber. The outside boards of each tier are full length. This is
important to tie the pile together and make it less subject to tilting or falling over.
Leave spaces between adjacent boards approximately equal to the thickness of the
boards.

Figure 1
Plan view of a tier of boards, illustrating
the system of alternating short lengths
for box piling. Unsupported ends of
boards placed on the inside of the pile
will dry with less defect than if allowed
to extend over the end of the pile.
An adequate supply of wooden sticks (spacers) will be needed to separate each layer
(Figures 1 and 2). It is very important that the sticks be uniform in thickness. Sticks
usually are cut 3/4-inch thick. Note that the stickers are carefully aligned vertically
(Figure 2) so that each layer of lumber will be supported from the base of the pile. If
the stickers are not properly aligned, forces will be created in the drying lumber that
will result in permanent kinking of the lumber.

Figure 2
Diagram of essential features
of good lumber stacking for
proper seasoning.

Finally, cover the pile with old boards, plywood, corrugated metal or any materials
that will protect the top layers of lumber from sun and rain. It is also a good idea to
weight the top by placing heavy objects such as concrete blocks or stones on the roof.
This will reduce warping in the top tiers of the pile as well as secure the roof on the
pile.

Drying time

In warm weather (April through October), 1-inch lumber can be dried to 15 or 20


percent moisture content in 45 to 60 days (2-inch lumber in 60 to 90 days)
Seasoning of Lumber ( http://www.philippine-builder.com/content/view/288/55/)
By nature, trees contain moisture in their cell layers. This moisture has to be expelled thoroughly in
order to preserve the wood from shrinkage or decay. Experiments have proven that wood which are
immersed in water immediately after cutting into flitches is less subject to splitting and decay. It
reduces warping but become brittle and is less elastic. Soaking of wood in liquid is the oldest
method of seasoning lumber introduced and practiced by the Ancient Roman Builders.

The Various Methods of Seasoning Lumber

1. The Natural Sunlight or Air Seasoning Process - is considered as one of the best method used in
seasoning of wood although the period involved is relatively longer.

2. The Natural Seasoning - is a process wherein the lumber is placed in a drying kiln and then
exposed to steam and hot air. Wood from this process undergoes quick drying and is classified as
somewhat inferior in quality compared to those lumber which are seasoned by the natural sunlight
or air seasoning process.

The Artificial Methods of Seasoning Wood are:

1. By Forced Air Drying


2. By Kiln Drying
3. By Radio Frequency Dielectric Drying

Good seasoning is the primary consideration for a successful preservation of wood. Wood does not
decay naturally through time, nor will it decay if it is kept constantly dry or continuously
submerged in water.

The Common Causes of Decay in Wood are:

1. Alternate moisture and dryness


2. Fungi or molds
3. Insects and worms
4. Heat and confined air

The Process of Preserving Wood are:

1. External - the wood is coated with preservative (applied as paint) which penetrates the fiber of
the wood.

2. Internal - a chemical compound is impregnated at a prescribed pressure to permeate the wood


thoroughly.

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