M O D E R

MODERNIST N I S T
B R E
BRE AD A D

Nathan Myhrvold
and Francisco Migoya
MODERNIST BREAD
ISBN978-0-9827610-5-2
SRP $625 USD / $625 CAD / 425 GBP / 525 / $825 AUD
ABOUT NATHAN MYHRVOLD
THE COOKING LAB FOUNDER
Nathan Myhrvold, lead author of Modernist
Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (2011),
Modernist Cuisine at Home (2012), The Photog-
raphy of Modernist Cuisine (2013), and Modern-
ist Bread (fall 2017), is a chef, photographer,
and scientist. Myhrvold founded the Modern-
ist Cuisine team and led the development and
production of all four books as well as the
Modernist Cuisine Gallery in Las Vegas.
In addition to his culinary and photo-
graphic pursuits, the former chief technology
ABOUT THE TEAM
The Modernist Cuisine team is an interdisciplinary group in
Bellevue, Washington, founded by Nathan Myhrvold. The
officer of Microsoft is the founder and CEO
team comprises scientists, research and development chefs,
of Intellectual Ventures. He is an avid inventor
a full editorial and photography department, and sales and
and prolific author in the fields of tech-
marketing staffall dedicated to advancing the science of
nology, paleontology, climatology, energy,
the culinary arts through creativity and experimentation.
bioterrorism, and more. He holds several
They have published Modernist Cuisine: The Art and
degrees, including a doctorate in theoretical
Science of Cooking (2011), Modernist Cuisine at Home (2012),
and mathematical physics; masters degrees in
and The Photography of Modernist Cuisine (2013), and pro-
economics, geophysics, and space physics; a
duced The Photography of Modernist Cuisine: The Exhibition.
bachelors degree in mathematics; and
In addition, The Cooking Lab has developed a spherification
a culinary diploma from cole de Cuisine
kit, gel kit, and the Modernist Cuisine Special Edition Baking
LaVarenne.
Steel. Modernist Cuisine Gallery, located in Las Vegas, fea-
tures the books and Nathan Myhrvolds photography.

ABOUT FRANCISCO MIGOYA

THE COOKING LAB HEAD CHEF

Francisco Migoya is the co-author of de Barcelona awarded him the Medal of

Modernist Bread and leads the Modernist
Cuisine culinary team as head chef. An
innovative pastry chef, his most recent book,
The Elements of Dessert (John Wiley & Sons,
2012), won a 2014 International Association
of Culinary Professional Cookbook Award
in the Professional Kitchens category. He
has been recognized as a top U.S. pastry
chef and chocolatier. Gremi de Pastisseria
Master Artisan Pastry Chef (2013). Migoya
owned Hudson Chocolates in New York
and worked at both The French Laundry and
Bouchon Bakery as executive pastry chef.
Prior to joining the Modernist Cuisine team,
Migoya was a professor at The Culinary
Institute of America, where his areas of
instruction included bread, viennoiserie,
pastry, and culinary science.

ABOUT THE COOKING LAB

The Cooking Lab is Modernist Cuisines in-house publish-
ing division. In addition to publishing, The Cooking Lab
provides consulting, R&D, and invention services to food
companies and culinary equipment makers, both large
and small. Their new research laboratory, operated by
Intellectual Ventures, provides one of the best-equipped
kitchens in the world and includes access to a full set of
machining, analytical, and computational facilities. Equipped
with a state-of-the-art photography studio, the team uses
groundbreaking photography techniques, including in-house
SEM, micro, and macro imagery.
 MODERNIST
BREAD
ISBN 978-0-9827610-5-2
5 volumes + kitchen manual
More than:
2,600 pages
1,000,000 words
3,000 photographs
1,200 recipes
Description:
Five 10.25 13.4 inch hardcover books
with ribbon markers, two wedges, and wire-o
kitchen manual. 13.75 11.13 8.63 inches
(stainless steel slipcase)

6 MODERNIST CUISINE BREAD LEAN DOUGH 7

FOREWORD BY CHAD ROBERTSON CHAPTER 7: GRAINS
FOREWORD BY FRANCISCO MIGOYA Amazing Grass
MY CULINARY JOURNEY BY NATHAN MYHRVOLD Wheat
STORY OF THIS BOOK Other Grains
ABOUT THE RECIPES The Life Cycle of Grain
The Economics and Politics of Grain
The Commodity System and Cheap Bread

Volume 1 CHAPTER 8: FLOUR

Flour Milling
History and Fundamentals What is in Flour?
CHAPTER 1: HISTORY Wheat Flours
The Ancient World Rye Flours
The Premodern Era Other Flours and Powders
The Industrial Age
The Information Age CHAPTER 9: LEAVENING
The Future of Bread Yeast
Sourdough
CHAPTER 2: MICROBIOLOGY FOR BAKERS Chemical Leaveners
Spoilage and Fermentation
Foodborne Illness CHAPTER 10: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Sources of Contamination Ingredient Classification
Preventing Contamination Salt
Sugars
CHAPTER 3: BREAD AND HEALTH Fats and Oils
Dietary Systems Improving Dough
Medical Dietary Systems
Nonmedical Dietary Systems CHAPTER 11: INGREDIENT PREPARATION
Gluten Intolerance Inclusions
Grain and Seed Inclusions
CHAPTER 4: HEAT AND ENERGY Flavored Liquids and Purees
The Nature of Heat and Temperature Fruits and Vegetables
Energy, Power, and Efficiency Meats and Cheeses
Heat in Motion Nuts and Sweets

CHAPTER 5: THE PHYSICS OF FOOD AND WATER FURTHER READING

Water Is Strange Stuff
Freezing and Thawing
Vaporization and Condensation
Water as a Solvent Volume 3
Water Quality and Purity
Techniques and Equipment
FURTHER READING CHAPTER 12: FERMENTATION
Commercial Yeast
Preferments
Levain
Volume 2
CHAPTER 13: MIXING
Ingredients The Details of Mixing
CHAPTER 6: MAKING BREAD Machine Mixing
The Basics of Bread Hand Mixing
Planning to Bake Bread Bulk Fermentation
Bread Making by the Book
CHAPTER 14: DIVIDING AND SHAPING CHAPTER 21: ENRICHED BREADS
Dividing Brioche
Shaping by Hand Challah
Braiding White Sandwich Bread
French Regional Breads
CHAPTER 22: RYE BREADS
CHAPTER 15: FINAL PROOFING Farmers Bread
Proofing Equipment High Ryes
Final Proofing Methods
Calling Proof CHAPTER 23: WHOLE GRAIN BREADS
Cold-Proofing Dough Breads Made From Whole Grains
Bavarian Pumpernickel
CHAPTER 16: SCORING AND FINISHING Vollkornbrot
Scoring
Finishing FURTHER READING

CHAPTER 17: HOW BREAD BAKES

The Physics of Baking
Ovens Volume 5
Deck Ovens
Convection Ovens with Steam
Recipes II
Convection Ovens without Steam CHAPTER 24: FLAT BREADS
Pizza Ovens Crackers
Tandoor Ovens Injera
Dosa
CHAPTER 18: BAKING Inflated Breads
Transforming Dough Into Bread Naan
Baking In Professional Ovens Focaccia
Baking In Home Ovens Pizza
Baking Without An Oven
Parbaking Bread CHAPTER 25: BAGELS, PRETZELS, AND BAO
Pretzels
CHAPTER 19: COOLING AND SERVING Bagels
Cooling Bao
Staling and Spoilage
Storing CHAPTER 26: GLUTEN FREE BREADS
Slicing and Serving Gluten Free Ingredients

FURTHER READING CHAPTER 27: BREAD MACHINE BREADS

Lean Breads
Enriched Breads
Rye Breads
Volume 4 Whole Grain Breads

Recipes I FURTHER READING

CHAPTER 20: LEAN BREADS
French Lean Breads
Sourdough Breads GLOSSARIES OF CULINARY AND TECHNICAL TERMS
Country Style Breads SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT AND INGREDIENTS, REFERENCE TABLES
Ancient Breads THE MODERNIST CUISINE TEAM, CONTRIBUTORS, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS,
Whole Wheat Breads STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURES AND BEST BETS TABLES, INDEX
High Hydration Breads
THE STORY OF THIS BOOK
When I tell people what weve been working
on since our last book, the reaction often goes
something like this: Did you say 2,500 pages?
On bread?
Ill concede that at first blush, 2,642 pages
might seem a little over the top. But weve been
here before. We got the same initial reaction
whenwe were working on our first book,
Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of
Cooking, which ran an encyclopedic 2,438
pages. When it was released in 2011, people in
the publishing industry told us that a nontradi-
tional $625 cookbook wouldnever sell.
Well, Modernist Cuisine broke a lot of rules.
Andto my great relief, that worked. More than
230,000 curious and passionate food lovers
from home cooks to renowned chefs to staff at
educational institutionsdecided that the book
fit the right value equation. It won numerous
major food writing awards and has been translated
into nine languages. Its fair to say it has had a big
impact on the culinary world.
Now I am excited to introduce Modernist Bread:
The Art and Science. Its just as disruptive, just as
comprehensive, just as visually appealing, and just
as thought-provoking as its older sibling. In the
space of five volumes plus a kitchen manual, we
tell the story of one of the worlds most important
foods in new and different ways. Through this
story, we hope to enlighten, delight, and inspire
creativity in others who love not only bread but
also the science, history, cultures, and personali-
ties behind it.
Why focus on bread? Because it has so many of
the things that we love in a topic. Bread may seem
simple, but in fact it is highly technological and
scientificits actually a biotech product whose
creation requires harnessing the power
of microorganisms that ferment. Making bread is
so technique-intensive that small variations
in the method can make huge differences in the
outcome. There is a tremendous amount of skill
involved, to the point that bread making can
be daunting to home bakers and professionals
alike. During the baking process, breads sim-
ple ingredients go through such a mind-blowing
transformation that the product that comes out of
the oven bears almost no resemblance to the flour,
water, salt, and yeast that went in. Thats just cool.
Focusing on bread has given us the opportu-
nity to explore such wide-ranging scientific top-
ics as the structure of gluten and the physics of
ovens. It has given us a window into the minds
of the inventors and innovators who have made,
improved, and transformed this important staple
over the course of thousands of years. Our focus
on bread has also allowed us to look closely at the
evolution of cultures through the lens of a single
food that has spanned so much of human history:
bread was the primary source of calories for the
ancient Greeks and Romans and the Western civi-
lizations that followed. We also became intrigued
by the evolution of our agricultural system. There
is currently a lot of nationwide and global concern
about this system, after all, and wheat is at its cen-
ter. As the grandson of a Minnesota wheat farmer,
I was determined to tell the story of the role that
the underappreciated and underpaid farmers play
in our agricultural system.
Starting around the 1920s (but at an increas-
ing pace throughout the 1960s), bread became
an industrial product. Giant machines and fac-
tories were cranking out millions of loaves of
bland, precisely uniform sandwich bread, and
people welcomed these snow-white loaves. By the
1970s, though, both bread lovers and bread bak-
ers were beginning to rebel, eventually building
what is today called the artisanal bread move-
ment (page128). In the United States, the search
for quality led to the breads of Europeand in
Europe, bakers turned to the past.
The idea behind the artisanal bread movement
was a great one: bread lovers wanted to increase
the variety, flavor, and quality of bread beyond
the cheap industrial products that swamped
supermarket shelves. Going back to preindustrial
bread-baking practices and returning to small-
scale methods historically used by village bakers
seemed like just the thing to do.
But it cant possibly be true that all the best
ideas in bread baking have already been discov-
eredcreative bakers around the world have
made someamazing new loaves. Science and
technology are not the enemies of great bread.
The laws ofnature govern baking just like they
govern everything else in the world. Knowing
which lawsaffect your bread helps; understanding
technology helps,too.
When it began, the artisanal bread movement
was so liberating: it freed consumers from insipid,
machine-made white sandwich bread by giving
them choices. But any belief system can become
stagnant if it is closed to new ideas.
This stagnancy is all the more troubling today,
in a world in which bread is under attack from
thegluten-free trend and the low-carb movement.
Now more than ever, its vital to start unleash-
ing the creative possibilities of bread. With all the
excitement around todays innovative, modern
cuisine, its time to make bread more than just an
afterthought. Why not have fun and explore what
the latest science can add to the bread we know
and love? At the risk of sounding dramatic, bread
must innovate to survive and thrive.
We took an approach that is fiercely analytic
but also deeply appreciative of the artistry and
aesthetics of bread. We studied exhaustively (or
at least until we were exhausted!). We researched
ingredients and history, milling technologies and
dough rheology, grain botany, bubble mechan-
ics, and more. We talked to grain farmers, mill-
ers, food historians, statisticians, and every great
bread baker we could find. Over time, we became
even more convinced that our book could offer
something fresh and new.
We believe the idea of Modernist breadbread
that looks to the future, not the pastshould be
celebrated. In these pages, youll find our con-
tributions to what we hope will become a move-
ment. This movement isnt just about new recipes,
thoughits about the way we think of bread from
the ground up.
For each of our key recipes, we developed a tra-
ditional version and a Modernist version. You can
follow only the traditional recipes and find much
of value in this bookor you can branch out into
our Modernist recipes to explore new ideas. Bet-
ter yet, use this book as a jumping-off point to
make new kinds of breads that no one has tried
before. Whether you are a strict traditionalist or
an avid Modernist, a home baker or an artisan
baker or a restaurant chef, we hope that this book
will open your eyes to the possibilities of invention
and encourage different ways of thinking about
bread. We believe this kind of disruption will even
help change the economics of bread. (Wed like to
see bread go the way of chocolate and wine, which
are sold in a wide range of quality levels and price
points.)
In short, we believe the golden age of bread isnt
some mythical past that we all should try to return
tothe best days of bread are yet to come.

12  13
A LOOK INSIDE MODERNIST BREAD
We spent over 4 years looking at bread from every angle. We devised experiments
to test the limits of techniques, develop new recipes, investigate bakery lore, find
the best ingredients and tools, and understand the science of bread making.
We traveled around the world to speak to bakers, chefs, farmers, scientists,
and historians and go behind the scenes at mills, ingredient companies,
museums, and even the Svalbard seed bank in Norwaytasting bread
at every stop along the way. And, of course, we baked tons of
bread. Literally.

Heres a small sample of some of the discoveries,

techniques, recipes, and discussions youll find in the five
volumes of Modernist Bread.

Historical Stuff
Marking (and Marketing) Bread with Stamps Roman Bread Stamps
Bread Through the Ages
A Long History of No-Knead Bread

New Techniques
Our Rye Flour Revelation
The Uses of Cold Proofing in a Wine Fridge
Best Damn Gluten-free Bagel Canned bread
High Bubble Count Pizza Dough
Shaping Very Wet Doughs
Canned Breads Debunking
Dough CPR Does Pure Water Make for Better Bread?
Weird Stuff in Starters
Which is Better: Fresh or Aged Flour?
Are Whole Grains Healthier for You?

Discoveries
The Largest Loaf
100% Rye Bread
Bread is Lighter Than Whipped Cream
How Much Payload Can Dough Hold?
Supercharged Yeast

Inside Look
Crumbs for the Farmer
The Great Autolyse Debate
The Evolution of a Sourdough
Fats: How High Can You Go?
 1
Hi From
ry
sto

BREAD THROUGH THE AGES

When we read history books, were often learning about the
big events of the past. But the more mundane facts of ordi-
nary life arent always recorded. Some ancient and premodern
recipes have been preserved, but not many. So what was the
bread like? We researched paintings through the ages and from
around the world in order to find out what they looked like in
the past.
A few artists, like Pieter Brueghel the Elder and his son, also
named Pieter, painted scenes of ordinary people. Others
focused on royal scenes, so its reasonable to a ssume were
looking at fancy breads, some of which appear to beenriched.
Still, the bread forms in all these works look very familiar. 17th century
Even the practice of serving bread swaddled in a napkin
dates back centuries. At medieval banquets, the server carried
the lords bread and knife to the table in a decoratively folded
napkin called a portpayne, or portpain. That way the bread
would not touch the servers hands. Theres also a long Jewish
tradition of wrapping a piece of matzo in a cloth and hiding it.
Some say the wrapped afikomen symbolizes the way the Jews
carried their unleavened bread as they left Egypt.

11 1601 Italy
15th century 16th century

17 1630 France 20 1640 Netherlands

9 16th century Belgium

1 1467 Belgium 3 1525 Italy 5 1564 Netherlands 7 1590 Italy 14 1615 Belgium 16 1620 Spain 19 1635 Netherlands

1460 1500 1550 1560 1570 1580 1590 1600 1610 1620 1630 1640

2 1475 Spain 4 1530 Belgium 6 1585 Belgium 8 1594 Italy 12 1606 Italy 13 1606 Belgium 18 1625 Italy

15 1618 Spain
10 16th century Netherlands

16 VO LU M E 1 : H IS TO RY A N D F U N DA M E N TA L S HISTORY17
 er y
Fo crob om
ak log
i r
r B io
s
M F
Molds
Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, when bread
goes bad (not merely stale), mold is to blame.
People are less tolerant of mold on food than they
are of other kinds of microbial growth, for the
simple reason that whereas viral and most bacte-
rial contamination is invisible, mold is easy to
see. And, in most cases, mold stinksliterally.
Although bakers typically see mold as an enemy,
many foodsfrom Stilton, Roquefort, and Brie
cheeses to soy sauce and citric acidowe their
existence to the transformative power of molds
Some kinds of mold fluoresce when illumi- (see page174).
nated by ultraviolet light. Molds are not a particular taxonomic branch
of the fungal family tree; rather, they are one of
the three main growth forms that fungi can take.
Any species of fungus that, at a particular stage
in its life cycle, weaves its hyphae filaments into a
fabric-like network (called a mycelium) is behav-
ing as a mold.
People often think of mold as an infestation
that brings the shelf life of a fully prepared food
or, even more commonly, the leftovers of a meal
to an end. But molds play important roles at every
stage of the food supply, starting in the field. Fungi
cause nearly three-quarters of all crop diseases.
They inflict annual losses on farmers tallied in the
billions of dollars. In wheat farming, periodic out-
breaks of several forms of fungal infections known
as rusts can wipe out part or nearly all a farms
yield. In recent years, rusts have damaged wheat
crops throughout Asia, A ustralia, the Middle East,
North Africa, and the United States. Farmers have
bred rust-resistant strains of wheat, but the fungi
Although fungicides have been have evolved new ways of attacking them. For-
effective at controlling wheat rusts, tunately, fungicides remain an effective, though
they can have damaging side effects
in some ecosystems. Fungicides expensive, way to halt rusts.
have been implicated as a contrib- Stinking smut, also known as bunt, has been
uting factor in bee colony collapse the bane of wheat farmers for centuries. This dis-
disorder, for example.
ease, caused by fungi in the genus Tilletia, fills
the kernels of the grain with black spores. As a
thresher cuts the grain down during the harvest,
the kernels burst, and black clouds of spores erupt
and spread the disease across the field. Accord-
ing to Don E. Mathre, emeritus professor in plant
sciences and plant pathology at Montana State
University in Bozeman, stinking smut single-
handedly compromised a fifth of the wheat crop
in Washington State in the early 20th century.
The clouds of spores were so thick around the
18 VO LU M E 1 : H IS TO RY A N D F U N DA M E N TA L S
2
horse-drawn combines that sparks of static elec-
tricity from the equipment set off explosions
more than 160 in 1915 alone. The invention of
effective fungicides in the 1970s brought the dis-
ease under control in high-income nations, but the
disease persists in regions where farmers cannot
afford to treat their seeds.
Other grains commonly used in baking are also
vulnerable to fungal disease as they grow. Oats,
rice, and corn are all susceptible to various kinds
of smut and to stunting diseases caused by molds
that destroy their roots or rot their stalks.
S poiled B efore Baking
Between harvest and milling, grain is typically
stored in silos or warehouses, where fungi get
another shot at it. Once the plant matter is dead, a
different set of moldsthe saprophytescan set
in and start to break it down. The economic losses
caused by spoilage are significant and are one fac-
tor in the fluctuating prices of grains. But some
grain molds can also pose a food-safety problem
for bakers because, under certain conditions, they
produce poisons called mycotoxins. More than
200 kinds of mycotoxins have been identified so
far, and they contaminate a q uarter of food crops
globally, according to estimates by the Food and
Agriculture Organization of the UnitedNations. A galaxy of spores erupts from moldy
bread when it is given a gentle tap. Molds
The most dangerous of these compounds mold can produce toxins known as trichothecenes. citrinin, a mycotoxin linked to kidney disease.
get around by producing tiny spores that
are aflatoxins, which are made by the common One of these, called vomitoxin, is just as unpleas- Fortunately, ochratoxins and citrinin appear to be waft through the air. The spores produced
yellow-green molds Aspergillus flavus and A. para- ant as it sounds. Ingesting a large amount of the quite rare in grains produced in the United States. by Puccinia graminis, which causes black
siticus. In high doses, aflatoxin B1 can cause liver toxin, which is also known as deoxynivalenol, or Unfortunately, mycotoxins are remarkably stem rust in wheat, can drift on the winds
for more than 3,000km/1,860mi, carry-
damage and immune problems. Aflatoxins are DON, causes the rapid onset of gastrointestinal heat resistant, and most can retain their poison-
ing the disease from the Deep South of the
also among the most potent carcinogens yet iden- distress and illness, headache, dizziness, and fever. ous effects even when cooked to 121^/250| United States all the way through the Mid-
tified, at least in lab animals. In the United States, As with aflatoxins, scrupulous screening of grain well above the peak internal temperature in a fully west and up to C anada. Spore collectors
the toxins most frequently ruin corn, nut, and pea- supplies has largely prevented human illness from baked loaf of bread. So the best protection against mounted on airplanes have shown that
airborne fungi are able to cross oceans,
nut crops after harvest. A robust testing system these mycotoxins in Europe and North America, them is to buy flour and grains from reputable,
drifting on the winds from one continent
ensures that foods containing unsafe amounts of though the blight has claimed wheat crops from well-managed vendors who comply with all gov- to another.
mycotoxins are thrown out, but losses are so fre- North Dakota to North Carolina. In addition, ernment regulations on grain handling, storage,
quent and severe in warmer climates that Aspergil- outbreaks have occurred in Asia and Africa. and testing. The rules are designed to ensure that The waterborne fungus Phytoph
lus effectively dictates where in the United States Several species of Aspergillus molds produce contaminants remain below levels established as thora infestans caused the Irish
potato blight of 18451847 that
these crops can and cannot be grown economi- ochratoxins when they infect corn, barley, wheat, safe for human consumption. exacerbated by unconscionable
cally. Unfortunately, there is no practical method oat, or rye. Ochratoxin Asecreted by species mismanagement on the part of
yet for reliably protecting crops against contami- including A. niger, the same mold used to make B read G one Bad the governmentled to famine
and a diaspora that together
nation by Aspergillus molds, which are virtually citric acidis known to cause kidney damage and Mold does terrible things to the flavor of breads, halved the population of Ireland
ubiquitous. poses a cancer risk. Penicillium molds, which are and thats no doubt one of the main reasons that (see page110).
For wheat, barley, and rye, the main threat is usually thought of as helpful or innocuous (they people generally dont get sick from eating moldy
scab, a head blight produced by Fusarium gra- are used, for example, to make penicillin and blue breadbread gone bad is pretty easy to avoid. It Plasmopara viticola, a fungus that
minearum and other species in this genus. In addi- cheeses), are another source of ochratoxins. And helps, too, that few molds are able to infect healthy causes grapevine downy mildew,
wiped out the vineyards of Europe
tion to reducing crop yields due to the disease, this both Aspergillus and Penicillium molds also secrete people. Some do, of course: most adults in the1870s.
MICROBIOLOGY FOR BAKERS  19
En at a m
e r nd
4
2
He Fro

gy

EVEN BETTER WHEN BROWNED The steamthat comes off bread as it toasts is invisible, but the hot water vapor often quickly
condenses in the cooler kitchen air into visible wisps of fog. The surface of the slice must dry
which means the water in it must boil off into steambefore the bread can brown. As long as
The best invention since sliced bread? Maybe not, but substantial moisture remains in the bread, the arriving heat goes into boiling that water rather
the modern toaster can sure make sliced breads taste than raising the temperature of the solid part. When the water is mostly gone, the temperature
can climb into the range, around 150^/300|, where browning gets going in earnest.
better. Before Alan MacMasters invented the electric
toaster in Scotland in the late 1890sas one of the first
uses of household electricity other than lighting, pre- White bread turns toasty brownas its temperature
ceded only slightly by the electric kettleunattended rises above 130^/265| or so, intothe range where
Maillard reactionsand also caramelization, for
toasting had relied mostly on convective heating. Toast-
sweet breadstransform sugars and proteins into
ers for woodstoves tilted bread over a vented metal anarray of aromatic and increasingly dark com-
can; hot air p ouring through the vents washed over the pounds. The darker the shade, the less incoming
radiation is reflected and the more the heat gets
bread, browning it. But MacMasterss idea of using a
absorbed. This positive feedback mechanism,
red-hot element, combined with the later addition by known in physics as the albedo effect, is one of the
others of a pop-up spring and timer, transformed toast- reasons that toasting is tricky: the transformation
proceeds slowly until darkening begins, and then
ing into an exercise in irradiation. Greater convenience
itaccelerates, leaving a narrow window of time
and reproducible results, however, came at a price: toast between too little toasted and too much.
made by infrared heating is susceptible to a positive
feedback effect, so it doesnt brown as evenly as bread
toasted by convection or conduction. For a practical
guide to making perfect toast, see page 3434.
Radiative toastingtends to darken bread
unevenly compared with toast made conduc-
tively (on a griddle) or convectively by using hot
Inventors have patented ideas for appliances that could air. Some parts of the bread inevitably contain
monitor how toasted the bread is by using ionizing more moisture than others, so they are slow
sensorsmuch like those in smoke detectorsto detect todry out and darken. And the toasters wire
some of the invisible particles that waft from the bread as cageand support elements block some of the
it bakes. Those smart toasters might be able to adapt infrared rays, casting shadows that leave some
automatically to bread slices of different colors, thick- spots on the slice slightly cooler than others.
nesses, moisture levels, and starting temperatures. But cost These small differences get amplified as the
may be an obstacle: years after the patents were filed, even hottest spots darken and the toasting
high-end toasters still lack a sense of smell. accelerates.

Red-hot heating elementsthrow off a little red lightand

far greater amounts of infrared radiationwhen a strong
electrical current passes through them. The wires, typically
made of a nickelchromium alloy known as nichrome, can Controlling the degreeof toasting
reach temperatures above 1,000^/1,830|, well into is nearly impossible to do precisely
therange where radiation dominates heat transfer. Because with most toasters. There are
nearly all the toasting work is done by radiation, not hot air, simply too many variations among
toasters that have reflective interiors will be more efficient different breadseven different
and toast the bread more evenly. slices taken from the same loaf on
different days will varyto predict
how the bread will respond to
radiative heating. The color, cut,
Gravity takes its share of the breadas crumbs inevitably thickness, fat content, moisture
fall to the bottom and, because of their high surface-to- content, starting temperature,
volume ratio, soon char. Much of the appealing aroma of and ambient humidity all affect
toasting bread typically comes as much from the crumbs the outcome.
stuck in the machine as from the slice. Burnt crumbs dont
smell so nice, however, so its a good idea to empty the
tray frequently.

20 VO LU M E 1 : H IS TO RY A N D F U N DA M E N TA L S M I C R HO EB AI OT LAONGDY EFNOERR G
B AY K E R S  21
 6
M From
ea g
Br akin
d

SURPRISING SCIENCE

Bread Is Lighter Than Whipped Cream Density Comparison

The heading above is surprising but true, and you can test massis not evenly distributed: a crunchy baguette crust, g/cm3
it yourself: put 1 L of whipped cream on the left pan of a whichresists cutting and chewing, is 50%100% more dense
balance scale and a 1 L brioche on the right. The scale will thanthe crumb. The crust is about as dense as pinewood 0

tip totheleft. (and whipped cream), whereas the density of the crumb is
The demonstration is hard to believe because it violates more like that of cork.
our expectation that a foam should be lighter than a solid. But if the crust is as dense as whipped cream, why does sea sponge, 0.02 0.1
But bread is also a foamit is just a set foam. The brioches crust feel heavier? The short answer is that the chemistry of
crust is solid enough, but the crumb inside is mostly air. these two foams differs. To bite through bread (a set foam), sandwich bread, 0.23 French lean bread, 0.25
This simple comparison illustrates that the density of bread you have to tear apart strong chemical bonds among adjacent
that is, its mass divided by its volumeis less than that of almost molecules. But to eat whipped cream (a colloidal foam), you egg-white foam, 0.13 0.2
any other kind of food. Ciabatta, baguette, b rioche, sandwich merely have to push adjacent particles apart. balsa wood, 0.15
bread, and other common yeast breads typically have a den- Intuitively, you might expect that airier breads, such as
sity of just 0.220.25 g/cm3. Whipped cream, by comparison, a baguette, are less dense than loaves that have a tighter
0.3
has a density of 0.49 g/cm3. A liter of whipped cream thus crumb,such as pumpernickel and other rye breads. And,
weighs twice as much as a brioche of equalvolume! infact, thats true, as the chart (at right) shows.
Bread seems denser than it is in large part because its cork, 0.21
0.4
pine charcoal, 0.35
steamed bun, 0.40 brioche, 0.27

0.5

Whipped cream has a reputation for being light

and airy, but its about twice as dense as a brioche.
To demonstrate this using a scale, we baked a loaf
apple, 0.46 0.6
of brioche in a 1 L container and carefully shaved
off the extra bits that rose above the lip. Mean- proofed lean dough, 0.47
while, we filled a 1 L acetate-lined container with
whipped cream, froze it, and then gently peeled off
theacetate. whipped cream, 0.49 0.7

100 rye, 0.58

0.8

red pine, 0.51

0.9
vollkornbrot, 0.71

1.0
olive oil, 0.92

1.1

wheat kernel, 1.25

1.2
pumpernickel, 1.09

22 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS MAKING BREAD  23

 6
M From
ea g
Br akin
d

1
2 12
11 13 14

3
4

17
3
15
16 18

1
5
6

BASICS 19
20

21

22
8
7 9

10
RECOMMENDED
23

NICE TO HAVE 27

28
30

32
33
24 25 26
29

31

24 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS MAKING BREAD  25


Gr rom
s
ain
F
THE HARVESTING PROCESS
Farmers get just a few cents per pound of wheat thats har-
vested, so they want to harvest economically. Combine har-
vesters require large capital investments, but theyre essen-
tially efficient rolling factories that harvest and thresh the
A combine harvester cuts the wheat and sucks it through a threshing mechanism that
separates out the kernels and spits them into a holding tank while blowing the chaff
out the back of the machine. Today, a combine operator needs less farm know-how
156 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS
wheat. Acombine can harvest 900 bushels of corn in an hour.
The rolling hills of the Palouse region of Washington state
(pictured below) are prime wheat country, even though when
you think of wheat, youre more likely to think of the Midwest.
and more computer literacy. The job involves monitoring an onboard screen that does
everything from tracking engine performance to verifying that the threshing mecha-
nism is operating properly.
2
7
From the combine, the wheat is dumped into the grain cart. Some grain carts can hold Some farmers have local storage facilities where they can hold the grain until they can
as many as 2,000 bushels. The work of harvesting requires team effort. During har- get the price they want. Others ship it directly to a local elevator, where its stored
vest, enormous seed trucks are at the ready, waiting to be filled from the grain carts. temporarily before being transported to a larger facility or a mill.
They look like big, lumbering machines, but they get the job doneonce theyre filled,
they speed the grain to its destination.
Companies are developing robotic technology for many aspects of farming. Farmers in Japan have used small
radio-controlled crop-dusting helicopters for years.
GRAINS 157
 8
Flo rom
ur
F

WHEAT ANATOMY WHAT IS FLOUR?

Wheat is a type of grass that grows in long stalks, with b ristly
heads. The bristly part is called the spike. Its what helped the
wild wheat plant propagate because the spike would break
apart, and its seeds would disperse with the wind. Spikes can also
stick to the coats of animals, which would deliver them to new
locations. And thus, wheat, like many grasses, spread.
Before we get into the process of milling, well start with some two parts. You get the bran and germ when you buy whole-
basics. Grain is made of three main parts: germ, bran, and grain flour. The anatomy of the wheat k
ernel is discussed
endosperm. The vast majority of flour on the market is made below.
from the endosperm, which is softer and whiter than the other

Head Awn Spikelet Whole kernel: botanists call this the caryopsis; in grocery stores, it might be called a wheat
berry, but here we call it a wheat kernel. When we talk about whole wheat flour, this is
what weretalking aboutwhole wheat kernels that are milled, often in separate streams;
recombined; and then bagged up for sale, including the germ, bran, and endosperm. Youre
The awn i s the slender strand that getting the whole grain, with each of the three components in the same proportions as they
extends from the seed. Its what were found in the farmers field.
Spike gives wheat its hairy appearance.

Bran: during milling, the bran is removed from the whole grain. It can besold separately,
but it can also be mixed back in with the endosperm and germ to make whole wheat
flour. The sharp edges of the bran, and its capacity for water absorption, are detrimental
to loaf volume (see Why Does Bran Make Bread Dense?

2nd glume 1st glume

The glumesact as husks
that protect the seed.

The caryopsisis the one-seeded fruit of the

plant. Colloquially, it is often referred to as
kernel, grain, or berry.
Endosperm: pick up a bag of refined flour anywhere in the world, and youre
Caryopsis picking up a bag mostly filled with endosperm. Thats partly because grain itself
is mostly endosperm. Its also because the starchy endosperm creates the flour
that appeals to consumers and bakers, so its the desired product of most mills. If
youre buying bread flour, enriched flour, high-gluten flour, or any kind of flour
Brush other than that labeled whole wheat or high-extraction, theendosperm is
what youre getting.
Leaf

Endosperm
Bran
Stalk

Germ: the germ is the embryo of the living grain. This part is oftensepa-
rated out in milling because the fat content in the germ makes the flour
go rancid. Sometimes, its sold separately as wheat germ. Othertimes,
its mixed back in with the rest of the flour to make whole wheatflour.

Germ

Germ
Palea (upper hull)

Lemma (lowerhull) Wheats germ is often processed separately from the rest of the grain (left and in close-up Wheat flour imaged by scanning
Endosperm electron microscope (SEM).
at center). The germs oil can also be extracted (right).

28 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS FLOUR  29

 13
2
M rom
ng
F
ixi

STAND MIXER
A horizontal hub on some stand
The stand mixer is a small version of a planetary mixer mixers adds an extra degree of
versatility. Power from the motor
that can comfortably sit on any work surface, occupy- shaft can be delivered directly The more powerful the motor, t he better. Motors are rated
ing minimal space. We recommend these mixers for through this port to juicers, pasta inwatts (W) or horsepower (HP), with 1 HP = 746 W . But only
makers, graters, slicers, and other about a third of the rated motor power actually makes it to the
home use and small restaurant production.
laborsaving gadgets. Although a bowl. A 1.3 HP mixer, for example, typically delivers around
The pluses are clear: theyre comparatively eco- mixer doesnt spin as fast as a food 0.44 HP to the food. The rest of the power is lost to heat and
nomical; many small repair shops can fix broken parts processor, it can stand in for that the gearing system. As a result, the metal case surrounding the
if needed; and they can perform various functions appliance on many low-speed jobs. motor can get uncomfortably hot after the motor has run for
a while.
besides mixing. Their manufacturers offer many at-
tachments (sold separately) that can use the spinning
A series of gears c onverts the horizontal
motor to sheet pasta dough, grind meat, mill grains
rotation of the motor shaft into a combination
into flour, and chop vegetables; these a ttachments of rotation and revolution around a vertical A speed sensor m onitors the motor
make the stand mixer aversatiletool. axis. This lower arrangement is called a shaft and transmits information
planetary gear because the motion of the about the rate of rotation to the
In addition to having the same mixing attachments
beater shaft resembles the rotation and orbit control board.
as planetary mixers (hook, paddle, and whip), stand of a planet around its star.
mixers have a broad range of speed options, from
very slow to very fast. The downside is that the m
otors
of these machines are often not powerful enough
for some drier doughs, such as our bagel dough on
The beater shaft i s the
page322, and the dough capacity is relatively limited.
business end of the
The latter limitation is acceptable if youre making just mixer. Vertically spin-
enough dough to use at home, but it is a shortcoming ning attachments such
as a hook, paddle, or
for bakers interested in large batches. These mixers
whisk fit onto this pin
tend to move around the table as they mix, so keep and lock in place against
an eye on them or they may fall. (Some crafty bakers the raised button. A spring-loaded lever l ifts
place a jar-lid gripper or damp towel underneath them the bowl and locks it into the
proper position for mixing.
to keep them from moving too much. We use clamps
or a bungee cord to solidly anchor them.)

A hook c an take much of the manual labor out of mixing to full

gluten development. The hook works just fine on sticky doughs
(although you may need to scrape down the sides of the bowl
periodically). So the mixer can often complete mixing without
adding flour, as you would have to do with hand mixing.

The mixing bowl h  as a large dimple on the

bottom to prevent food from getting stuck,
unmixed, in the center as the stirring attachment
makes its orbit. Clearances between the bowl
and stirring utensil are typically quite close,
so a dented bowl can cause problems. Steel
bowls are not as robust as they might seem;
a fall to the floor can easily ruin one.
Flat beater (paddle) Flex-edge beater Wire whisk
The Ankarsrum mixer is not very common, but we like it for our gluten-
The paddle is useful when there is too little dough for a hook attachment to free breads in particular and for mixing other paste doughs such as 100
catch it, while the flex-edge beater scrapes the sides of the bowl. We some- rye breads. It has one arm that performs the mixing and another that
times start mixing with the paddle and then switch to the hook after obtain- scrapes the bowl, making for a very efficient mix. Also, because the bowl
ing a homogeneous mass. We also use the paddle for doughs that are made up itself is spinning, which translates to an open top unobstructed by the
of mostly rye flour. The wire whisk is used to whip air into mixtures, such as the motor housing that most stand mixers have, the extra open space makes
meringue used to garnish the Tarte Tropezzienne on page 288. iteasy to pour ingredients into the bowl.

30 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT

MIXING
 31
 ing nd
14
2
Sh iding m
ap a
v o
Di Fr

HOW TO Divide and Weigh Your Dough HOW TO Divide Dough for a Particular Shape

This is the most common method used by home bakers as well as pro-
fessionals because its also the most economical in terms of equipment;
it requires only a bench knife and a scale. As your output increases, the
process of dividing and weighing dough takes more time, which means
that precision and efficiency become all the more important. We f ocus
on dividing dough by hand in this particular section, but we discuss
various machines used for dividing dough on page 139.
We prefer to use a square or rectangular tub for storing dough
because once the dough settles into the container, it will generally
take the tubs shape, unless its a stiff dough with low hydration. (Typi-
cally, a dough of 70% hydration or higher will settle into the shape of
the tub.) For easier handling, we also suggest lightly oiling the inside
ofany storage container. When a settled dough is then turned out onto Beyond cutting your block of dough evenly, you should also decide example, if you want to shape round loaves (boules), divide your dough
a lightly floured surface, it maintains the shape of its container. The what shape youll be forming it into. It helps to cut a preliminary form as illustrated in (a) rather than dividing it into long rectangles as illus-
square or rectangular shape also makes it easier to divide the dough into that will make it easier to shape the dough for a particular loaf. For trated in(b).
equal pieces. It is important for the dough to be relatively flat and uni-
formly thicklarge variations in either aspect will make the dough hard
to divide evenly. If the rectangle is uneven in thickness, fold it over onto
itself. This is the best way of evening out the thickness of a dough. The
part of the dough that is in contact with the work surface is the smooth-
a b
est (the most uniform). Keep this smooth side facing the worktable at
all times until you are ready to preshape, at which time you will turn the
dough over. Youll want to work with a clean, sharp bench knife because
it will cut your dough rather than tear it. Have your scale handy.

1  ecide beforehand about the type of loaves

D
youll ultimately shape and bakeand about
the number of loaves you can make in sync
with the recipe.

2  ransfer the dough from the tub onto a

T
lightly floured surface, handling it gently
sothat it retains the shape of its container.

3  entally assess how youll divide the dough

M
as shown by the guidelines at right.
Ideally, the closer you can get to cutting square pieces of dough, the better
off youll be for shaping round loaves.
Cutting long, narrow shapes would not work well for making boules butis
best for making long, narrow loaves such as ciabatta.

4  se your bench knife to cut cleanly through the dough, all the way to the work surface. (Dont
U
worry if the dough degasses when you cut through it; thats not uncommon.)

c d

5 I mmediately weigh the cut piece of dough as you go to make sure it is the correct weight before
cutting a new piece. Doing so can help reduce the number of hand movements and also make the 6  eserve one piece of dough that you can
R
harvest from, or use it to make extra
process of dividing dough more efficient. pieces of dough you can add to the main
piece if needed. Dont stack the extra pieces
on top of each other on the main dough;
spread them out.
For oval loaves (btards), youll want to cut the dough into short rectangles, For rolls, divide the dough into long, even strips, as illustrated in (b). Then
as shown in (c). cut the long strips into small squares, as shown in (d). Rolls are typically

7  eep track of the order in which you cut and

K
weigh all the pieces of dough. Youll eventu-
ally want to shape each piece in the order
that you cut it.
8  over your dough with a clean plastic bag
C
or tarp so that it doesnt form a skin.
9 L et your dough rest, covered, for 1015min-
utes before you preshape it.
small in terms of size and, therefore, weight. For baguettes, you will also
need squares, albeit larger ones than those used for rolls.

32 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT DIVIDING AND SHAPING  33

 g
f in
al rom
oo
Fin F
Pr

HOW BUBBLES GROW IN DOUGH

Mixing infuses thousands of tiny air bubbles into dough (see
page 82). As the dough ferments and proofs, the b ubbles
expand. Each bubble behaves like a little gluten balloon that
inflates as gases of several kinds seep into the interior and then
expand in response to the gas pressure. The bubbles continue
to grow during the initial stages of baking; they are what power
the oven spring that enlarges the loaf. The pressurized bread
then sets from the outside in. While the crust forms, reinforc-
ingthe final shape of the loaf, the pressure in each bubble rises
to the bursting point.

Wheat dough rises so effectivelybecause it contains gluten. Gluten is
an elastic, viscous aggregate composed of several different kinds of
proteins, most notably glutenins and gliadins. The longer glutenin
pieceslink up to each other via disulfide bonds to form strong, stretchy
polymers. These interlinked strands are among the largest protein
molecules yet identified. More compact gliadin proteins allow the
dough to flow like a fluid. The ratio of gliadins to glutenins in the flour
has significant impact on the handling and rising characteristics ofthe
dough, but it varies from among varieties of wheat and is difficult to
measure orcontrol.

Disulfide bond Glutenin

Gas bubble The scanning electron microscope (SEM) gives a microscopic
look at a stretched piece of French lean dough. Oval granules
of starch (colored purple) are trapped within the gluten net-
Gluten Gliadin
work. For more on the inner workings of the SEM, see Electrons
Reveal More Details.

Gases

Starch granule

A blend of gases i nflates

each bubble during
proofing. Just after
CO2
mixing, the bubbles
mainly contain humid air,
O2 which includes nitrogen
(N2), oxygen (O2), carbon
Ethanol (C 2 H 6O)
dioxide (CO2), and water
vapor (H2O). Fermenting
yeast add ethanol (C 2H6O)
N2
H2O and lots more CO2 to the
mix. The heat of baking
boils water into steam,
drives dissolved gases out
of solution, and causes all
these gases to expand. Wheat bread is more like bubble
wrapthan like beer foam. Bubble
wrap can support a lot of weight
without popping because the plastic
in the bubble walls is both strong and
Ethanol stretchy. The same is true of gluten, as
illustrated by the experiment shown
above. After proofing 250g/9oz
loaves of dough, we put metal plates
weighing up to 2 kg/4.41 lb on the
H2O loaves, baked them, and then mea-
sured the volumes of the resulting
breads. Amazingly, the weights hardly made a dent! Even the loaf carrying
CO2 2kg/4.41 lb on top reached 60% of normal volume.
Bubbles can grow large in wheat bread (left), thanks to its high gluten content. Rye bread (center) contains practically no
gluten, so it traps less gas and has a correspondingly tighter crumb. And in gluten-free bread (right), other ingredients,
suchas hydrocolloids, are typically added to retain gasbut so far none can match the stretchiness of gluten.

34 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT FINAL PROOFING  35

 ing d
16
2
Fin ring m
ish an
o o
Sc Fr

HOW TO Score a Baguette THE BAGUETTE SCORE UP CLOSE

A baguette is one of the most challenging shapes to score. You have
less surface area to work with because most of the required cuts have
to be made along a narrow strip, but the same rules apply: scoring
needs to be deliberate (quick and assertive) and to the same depth.
Its also important that the score lines dont overlap too much (about
1.25cm/in is enough). Decide on the number of scores you wish
to make, add one to that number, and then mentally divide the dough
into that many sections. For example, if you plan to make five cuts, Theres wisdom in the adage that a picture is worth a thousand words. Describ-
mentally divide the dough into six equal parts (see top photo below). ing how to cut something doesnt necessarily create a clear and immediate
Be sure to make your cuts in the middle third of the dough, width-
impression, and the notion of scoring bread can be complicated for those who
wise. Practice, as they say, makes perfect, but when it comes to
scoring b
aguettes, even the most seasoned bakers will falter now have limited experience with this step. In the hope of clarifying the p rocess,
and then, whether the challenge is the angle, the depth, or the over- we turned to one of the visual techniques were known for: we took proofed
lapand spacing. baguette dough, froze it, and, using a band saw, cut it in half to clearly detail the
desired scoring angle.

Problem:This cut is practically straight

down, and its too shallow (3 mm/ in),
which will result in minimal ear formation.

1 Mentally divide the dough lengthwise, and then visualize performing the desired number of cuts within the middle third.

Some bakers employ the nifty trick

Note the 45 angleof the
blade and the depth of
the cut (6 mm/ in).
of letting proofed dough sit uncov-
ered in the refrigerator for about
3045 minutes. This allows the
surface to form a skin, which a blade
can easily and cleanly cut through.

2  core the bread, overlapping the cuts slightly; cuts should be the same length, the same angle,
S
and 6 mm/ in deep. 3 E venly space the cuts along the center of
the doughs surface. As the water within the doughbecomes
steam, the temperature rises in and
around the loaf. The steam finds the
path of least resistance outward, which
THE NUMBER OF will be toward the closest score.

Baguette Scores Thanks to oven spring, t he pockets

of carbon dioxide and water vapor
within proofed dough will enlarge
Baguettes typically have five scores, but who decided on as the dough bakes. This bubble
expansion creates the final
that number? Why not one, three, or even seven? As these
crumb, which is typically
things often happen, theres a bound by tradition reason more open than
for the count but no practical purpose cited. In fact, pick a the bubbles in
unbaked dough.
number from one to fourhowever many cuts you make,
fewer than five is more efficient because scoring takes less
time. A lthough making a single score is the most practical
approach, weve also bought into the five-score tradition for
aesthetic reasons. But theres no ruleat least not one thats
enforcedthat says a baguette must have five scores to be
called a baguette.

From left to right: five-score baguette, classic pi, one-sided epi, and three-score baguette.
Cutting the dough into an epi shape will result in more crust surface area. The crust-to-
For more on the trends in baguette shaping crumb ratio for an epi is even more than for a typically scored baguette, whether the
in Paris, see page 154. baguette has one, three, or five scores.

36 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT  SCORING AND FINISHING  37

OUR RECIPE CHAPTERS
Weve categorized hundreds of breads and placed them into the recipe chapters shown below.
We also organized the breads into family trees.

LEAN BREADS

French Lean Bread Sourdough Ancient Grain 10o% Whole Country-Style High Hydration
Bread Wheat Bread Bread

ENRICHED BREADS RYE BREADS

Brioche Sandwich Bread Challah High-Ryes Farmers Bread

FLAT BREADS BRICK-LIKE BREADS

Crackers Injera Dosa Pumpernickel Vollkornbrot Whole Grain Loaf

Inflated Breads Naan Focaccia Pizza

GLUTEN-FREE BREADS BREAD-MACHINE BAGELS, PRETZELS, BAO

BREADS

Gluten-Free Bread Machine Bagels Pretzels Steamed Buns

MAKING BREAD  39
 ds
20
an om
ea
Le Fr
Br

ingredient variation
GENERAL DIRECTIONS TIME
WALNUT BREAD
PROCEDURE NOTES active / inactive
MIX by hand* mix A to a shaggy mass; autolyse 30min; add B, and mix until see Hand Mixing Options, 5min /30min
Its not too common for French bakers to put inclusions in their peel them or fold them in during the bulk fermentation process homogenous page TK
breads, though this oneoften offered with cheese coursesis a as described in the hand mix method (note that it can be tricky to by machine* mix A to a shaggy mass; on low speed; autolyse 30min; add B, see Country-style Breads 3841min
frequent exception. If you machine-mix the walnuts into the dough, evenly incorporate the nut pieces). and mix to medium gluten development; add C, and mix on low Machine Mixing Options,
however, the skin may impart a purple tinge. Alternatively, you can speed until fully incorporated page TK
BULK FERMENT by hand* 4h total; 6 folds (one every 30min after the first hour, 30min rest see Hand Mixing, page TK 5 min /4 h
after final fold); after the first fold, add C; mix with your hands see Gluten Development,
TOTAL TIME DDT DIFFICULTY OVENS YIELD / SHAPES 4114 using a squeeze, pull, and fold-over motion; check for full gluten page TK
development using windowpane test
Active 27min 2426^/ Easy: by machine* 2h total; 2 folds (1 fold every hour after the first hour), 30min see How to Perform a Four- 5min /2h
Inactive 20h31min 7578| all aspects Deck Home Convection Combi 1lg boule or btard 2sm boules or btards 13 rolls rest after final fold; check for full gluten development using the Edge Fold, page TK and Glu-
windowpane test ten Development, page TK
DIVIDE/SHAPE divide lg boule/btard sm boule/btard roll miche see How to Divide Your 07min
do not divide 500 g 75g do not divide Dough, page TK
INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME NET CONTENTS
preshape boule/btard boule/btard boule boule page TK 17min
A Water 385g 1 cups 75.49 Ingredients Weight
rest 20min 20 min 20min 20min 20min
Liquid levain, mature 180g cup + 1Tbsp 35.29 Bread flour 455g 75.83
see page TK shape boule/btard boule/btard roll boule 17min
Medium rye flour 145g 24.17
Bread flour 365g 2 cups 71.57 FINAL PROOF 13^ / 55| 14h 14h n/a 14h see page TK for proofing times 1216h
Water 475g 79.17
Medium rye flour 145g 1 cup 28.43 for rolls
Walnuts 50g 8.33 4^ / 39| 1216h 1216h n/a 1216h see Final Proofing Methods,
Wheat bran, toasted 45g cup 8.82
Wheat bran 45 g 7.50 page TK, and Calling Proof,
B Fine salt 12g 2tsp 2.12 page TK; see page TK for
Salt 12g 2
C Walnuts, coarsely 50g cup 9.80 proofing times for rolls
chopped and toasted SCORE for scoring options, see page TK 30s1min
Yield 1.14kg Multiply this recipe by two for a miche. BAKE see the Country-style Breads Baking Times and Temperatures table, page TK 15min1hr
For salt, flours, and other notes, see page TK. For notes on substitutions, see page TK.
TOTAL TIME *choose by hand or machine by hand 32min / 21h50min
by machine 27min / 20h31min
Why does the dough turn purple? Walnut
skin contains an antioxidant called DPPH
(2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) that has You can substitute other nuts for the walnuts, such as pecans, hazelnuts, or almonds. Some bakers add cranberries,
a purple hue. When you agitate the too, which is a classic pairing with walnuts. If you would like to add cranberries, use 50g / 1.76 oz / 9.80 .
skin, the antioxidant turns the You can also shape this dough into a baguette: divide the dough into three 330g pieces, then see instructions for
dough purple. shaping baguettes, page TK. For baking instructions, see page TK.
When mixing by hand, you may need to perform more folds and lengthen bulk fermentation time to fully develop
the gluten, especially when using inclusions.

Though walnuts arent everyones

cup of tea, they add a textural com-
ponent and a savory meatiness to
bread. Their aroma is attributed to a
combination of molecules derived
from their oil. However, they are
also high in polyunsaturated lin-
oleic acid, a factor that makes them
prone to rancidity. Because of this,
walnuts should always be stored in
the freezer.

1 104
4 VVOOL LUUMMEE 44: : RREECCI IPPEESS I D I V I DLLIENEAGANNABNBRRDEEASADHDSA P I N G  1 4
1 51
 ds
26
20
an om
ea
Le Fr
Br

ingredient variation BANH MI ROLLS

FILONE Banh mi is one echo of the French colonization of Vietnam. The term translates liter-
ally as wheat bread and refers to a baguette-like loaf or smaller roll that has a slightly
The filone is another Italian bread that is sometimes compared with the baguette, softer crust and tighter crumb than French baguettes. Banh mi has also become syn-
though as with the pane francese (see page TK), the dough is in the high-hydration onymous with a sandwich, made on these loaves, of pickled vegetables, cilantro sprigs,
spectrum so has more rustic character than the baguette. Filone loaves are often a bit fresh chilies, and meat or tofu.
shorter and broader than the slender French loaf. This dough uses protein-rich durum
flour, which contributes its distinctive flavor and yellowish hue to the bread. TOTAL TIME DDT DIFFICULTY OVENS YIELD / SHAPES

TOTAL TIME DDT DIFFICULTY OVENS YIELD / SHAPES Active 35min 2426^/ Easy: Advanced:
Inactive 3h48min 7578| mixing shaping Deck Combi Convection Home 4baguette rolls
Active 35min 2426^/ Easy: Advanced: 3baguettes
Inactive 4h54min 7578| dough shaping (baguette) Deck Combi Convection Home or short baguettes 4ficelles INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME NET CONTENTS
A Water 345g 1cup 57.50 Ingredients Weight
INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME NET CONTENTS Instant dry yeast, osmotolerant 7g 2tsp 1.17 Flour 600g 100
For the Poolish Ingredients Weight B Bread flour 600g 4cups 100 Water 345g 57.50
Bread flour 170g 1cups 100 Bread flour 485g 84.26 Sugar 20g 2tsp 3.33 Sugar 20g 3.33
Water 170g cup 100 Durum flour 85g 15.74 C Fine salt 6g 1tsp 1 Fat 100g 16.67
Instant dry yeast 0.17g tsp 0.10 Water 430g 75.44 D Shortening or lard, melted and 100g cup 16.67 Yeast 7g 1.17
For the Dough Salt 11.00g 1.93 cooled Salt 6g 1
A Water 260g 1cups 65 Yeast 3.17g 0.55 Yield 1.00kg

Instant dry yeast 3g 1tsp 0.75 For salt, flours, and other notes, see page TK. For notes on substitutions, see page TK.

B Bread flour 315g 2cups 78.75

GENERAL DIRECTIONS TIME
Poolish 340g all from above 85
PROCEDURE NOTES active / inactive
Durum flour 85g cup 21.25
MIX by hand* mix A to dissolve the yeast; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; see How to Mix in a Tub, 1012min / 30min
C Fine salt 11g 2tsp 2.75
(choose by hand or autolyse 30min; add C and mix to low gluten development; page TK
Yield 1.00kg machine) pour D in and mix to full gluten development
by machine* mix A to dissolve the yeast; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; see French Lean Bread 3638min
GENERAL DIRECTIONS TIME autolyse 30min; add C and mix to low gluten development; Machine Mixing Options,
pour D in and mix on medium speed to full gluten development page TK
PROCEDURE NOTES active / inactive
BULK FERMENT 1h; book fold after the first 30min see How to Perform a 5min / 1h
PREP preferment mix the poolish 12h before using page TK 12h
Four-Edge Fold, page TK
MIX by hand* dissolve A; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; autolyse 20 see How to Mix in a Tub, 5min / 2030min
DIVIDE/SHAPE divide baguette see How to Divide Your 57min
(choose by hand or 30minutes; add C, and mix until homogenous page TK
machine) 250g Dough, page TK
by machine* dissolve A; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; autolyse 20 see French Lean Bread 3844min
30minutes; add C, and mix to medium gluten development Machine Mixing Options, preshape baguette see page TK 57min
page TK rest 1520min 1520min
BULK FERMENT by hand* 3h total; 3folds (1fold every hour after the first hour), 30min see How to Perform a 5min / 3h shape 20cm / 8in baguette 57min
rest after final fold; check for full gluten development Four-Edge Fold, page TK FINAL PROOF 29^ / 85| 3045min see Final Proofing 30min1h
by machine* 2h total; 2folds (1fold every hour after the first hour), 30min and Gluten Develop- 5min / 2h Methods, page TK, and
21^ / 70| 11h
restafter final fold ment, page TK Calling Proof, page TK
DIVIDE/SHAPE divide baguette/short baguette ficelle see How to Divide Your 35min SCORE chill the dough uncovered for 10min; single score down the center 30s1min
350g 250g Dough, page TK BAKE bake to an internal temperature of 9093^ / 195200|; crisp crust requires steam 1020min
preshape baguette baguette see page TK 35min TOTAL TIME *choose by hand or machine by hand 39min / 3h40min
rest 20min 20min 20min by machine 35min / 3h48min
shape baguette ficelle 35min
FINAL PROOF 27^ / 80| 45min1h 3045min see Final Proofing 30min1h
Our version of banh mi is soft crumbed and crispy crusted, just like all the We highly recommend mixing this dough with a machine rather than by
65% RH Methods, page TK, and
bahn mi we have tasted. It is hard to tell this bread apart from the Mexican hand as it is a rather firm dough and you must achieve full gluten develop-
21^ / 70| 11h 45min1h Calling Proof, page TK
bolillo (pronounced bo-lee-yo) that is used for making the classic Mexican ment. Doing so by hand is time-consuming. If you use an 8 qt stand mixer,
SCORE single score down the center; see Scoring, page TK 30s1m sandwich called a torta. In fact, we would suggest using them for the same we recommend doubling this recipe so there is enough dough for the mixer
BAKE for baking details, see French Lean Bread Baking Times and Temperatures, page TK; crisp 1020m purpose. to catch all the ingredients.
crust requires steam
TOTAL TIME *choose by hand or machine by hand 26min / 6h10min
by machine 35min / 4h54min

52
4 V O L U M E 4 : R E C I P E SI LEAN BREADS  53
4
 ds
26
20
an om
ea
Le Fr
Br

SOURDOUGH WITH FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PUREES

These variations each use a different puree, with an adjusted INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME
amount of water (relative to the amount of water the puree Bread flour 480g 3cups 100
provides), and an inclusion such as corn kernels or chocolate Fruit or vegetable puree X X X
chips for added flavor and texture. The purees are added to the Water Y Y Y
water portion of the dough and mixed according to the Sour- Liquid levain, mature 195g cup 40.63
see page TK
dough master recipe (see page TK). The inclusions are added
Diastatic malt powder* 1g tsp 0.21
as per the mixing instructions in the Black Currant and Mar-
Fine salt 12g 2tsp 2.41
cona Almond Sourdough on page TK.
Inclusion Z Z Z
For salt, flours, and other notes, see page TK. For notes on substitutions, see page TK.
*Optional: Diastatic malt powder (DMP) is recommended if you are cold-proofing your
dough for more than 12 hours. For more on DMP, see page TK.

Cherry Pie and Chocolate Chip Sourdough

INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME

Hominy and Mole Sourdough
X Cherry pie filling (canned)* 145g cup** 30.20
INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Y Water 215g 1cup 44.79
X Hominy, canned, solids 190g 2cups** 39.53 Z Chocolate chips, bake proof*** 100g cup 20.83
drained* *Puree the pie filling whole in a blender. You can substitute blueberry pie filling or apple
Huitlacoche and Yellow Corn Sourdough
Y Water 165g cup 34.37 pie filling.
**Before pureeing
Z Mole paste*** 30g 2Tbsp 6.25 INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME
***See Resources, page TK; add after the dough has reached medium gluten development.
* Puree the hominy in a blender to a smooth paste. If the hominy isnt pureeing easily, X Huitlacoche* 100g cup** 20.83
add some water from the recipe to the blender.
Y Water 235g 1cup 48.95
**Before pureeing
***Mole paste can be found in most specialty Mexican grocery stores or online. Z Yellow corn (whole kernels, fro- 70g cup 14.58
Pistachio Sourdough
See Resources, page TK. Dissolve into the water portion of the dough. zen or fresh)***
*Huitlacoche is not readily available at many grocery stores, but it is likely you will find INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME
prepared cans or jars of it in specialty Mexican grocery stores; if this is how you find it,
donot drain the liquid. Puree the contents of the jar in a blender until smooth (canned
X Pistachio paste* 100g cup 20.83
Huitlacoche is already seasoned and is sometimes spicy). Huitlacoche is also avail- Y Water 315g 1cup 65.62
able frozen. Blend 70g of the puree with 30g of water in a blender until smooth. See Z Toasted pistachios** 100g cup 20.83
Resources, pageTK.
**Before pureeing *See Resources, page TK. Pistachio paste contains no water. Note that this much fat puts
***Add the corn after the dough has reached medium gluten development. this sourdough in enriched dough territory.
**See page TK on how to toast nuts; add after the dough has reached medium gluten
development.

Aji Amarillo and Roasted Purple Potato Sourdough

INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME

Bosc Pear and Toasted Coconut Sourdough X Aji amarilo, canned, solids 145g cup + 30.20
drained* 2Tbsp**
INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Y Water 200g cup + 3Tbsp 41.66
X Pears* 100g cup** 20.83 Z Roasted purple potatoes*** 100g cup 20.83
Y Water 235g 1cup + 3Tbsp 41.66 * Puree the aji amarillo in a blender to a smooth paste. If the aji amarillo isnt pureeing
easily, add some water from the recipe to the blender. Aji can be found in most specialty
Z Toasted dried coconut 100g 1cup 20.83
Latin American grocery stores or online. See Resources, page TK.
flakes***
**Before pureeing
*You can use fresh pears for this (make sure they are ripe). We prefer Bosc pears for this ***See procedure for roasting potatoes, page TK; add after the dough has reached
recipe, but you can use any variety that you like. You will need to peel and core the pears, medium gluten development.
and then puree them with the water amount in the recipe. You can also use canned pears
(strain the pears; do not use the syrup) or store-bought pear purees.
**Before pureeing
Huitlacoche and Yellow Corn Sourdough
***Use unsweetened coconut; add after the dough has reached medium gluten
development. Pistachio Butter and Toasted Pistachio

7 24
4 V O L U M E 4 : R E C I P E SI LEAN BREADS 75
4 3
PRINT EDITIONS OF HOW TO ORDER
OUR CURRENT TITLES MODERNIST BREAD
Please quote the following
information: ISBN, title,
quantity, retail price, name,
address, and shipping
details.
Please place orders
directly with one of
our partners.
French, Spanish and German
editions of Modernist Bread:
Modernist Cuisine: The Art Modernist Cuisine at Home The Photography of The Art and Science will be
and Science of Cooking Arabic, Chinese, English, French, Modernist Cuisine published by Phaidon and
Chinese, English, French, German, German, Italian, Portuguese, and English and Portuguese available in 2018
and Spanish Spanish
north america
United States & Canada
Ingram Publishing Services (IPS)
T 888 790 0431
customer.service@
ingrampublisherservices.com
2,472 pages 684 pages 312 pages
1,522 recipes 405 recipes 405 photographs south america
kitchen manual kitchen manual 145 full-spread photos Brazil
Grantham Book Services
Customer Service
T +44 14 7654 1082
latin america Germany & Austria
LKG mbH
Japan
Grantham Book Services
Mexico
T + 49 34206 65 106 Customer Service
Pedro Martin Caro
F + 49 34 206 65 1767 United Kingdom
pmartin@phaidon.com
phaidon@lkg-service.de T + 44 1476 541 082
M + 34 686 916 563
F + 44 1476 541 068
Italy export@gbs.tbs-ltd.co.uk
europe Messaggerie Libri
T +39 02457741
Great Britain & Ireland
Grantham Book Services
F +39 02 844 060 39
customer.service@meli.it
australia
Customer Service Australia
T +44 14 7654 1080 Hachette Australia
Spain
F +44 14 7654 1061 Alliance Distribution Services
Pedro Martin Caro
orders@gbs.tbs-ltd.co.uk adscs@alliancedist.com.au
pmartin@phaidon.com
T: +61 2 4390 1300
M + 34 686 916 563
The Netherlands & Belgium F: 1800 664 477
CB Groothandel
T +31 345 475 888
africa New Zealand
Hachette New Zealand
groothandel@cb.nl
South Africa
Alliance Distribution Services
Jonathan Ball Group
Belgium adscs@alliancedist.com.au
Book Promotions Group
Gallimard Export T: +64 (9) 477 4120
T + 27 11 601 8000
T + 33 1 49 54 15 65
F + 33 1 49 54 14 95
F + 27 11 622 3553
international@gallimard.fr
orders@jonathanball.co.za
other territories
Grantham Book Services
France
SODIS Service clients
asia Customer Service
T +44 14 7654 1082
India, Sri Lanka & Nepal
T +33 1 60 07 82 00 F +44 14 7654 1068
Roli Books
F +33 1 64 30 32 27 export@gbs.tbs-ltd.co.uk
T +91 11 4068 2000
saisie@sodis.fr
F +91 11 2921 7185
Switzerland care@rolibooks.com
OLF SA
Customer Service
T +41 848 653 653

High-Quality Printing Process

F +44 14 7654 1068 F +41 26 467 5466
export@gbs.tbs-ltd.co.uk serviceclients@olf.ch

Published by
The Cooking Lab
Bellevue, Washington U.S.A.
modernistcuisine.com

The stochastic screening process is better
able to reproduce fine patterns and subtle
gradations of color (shown in far-right side of
both images, directly above).
To request a review excerpt or to schedule an For global sales, licensing, and general information,
interview with the author, please contact: please contact:
Melissa Lukach, PR & Marketing Director E-mail: modernistbread@modernistcuisine.com
Cyan, magenta, yellow, and black inks used on most oset presses cannot
E-mail: breadpress@modernistcuisine.com
reproduce many of the colors that cameras can capture (gray areas in left
image above). Wide-gamut inks do a better job reproducing many of the
colors that cameras can capture, especially oranges and greens (see image,
above right).

Learn | Cook | Connect