The engine may be stalling because it isnt getting enough throttle opening.

The cause is often a problem in the idle

air control system. Other possibilities include a dirty throttle body, vacuum leak, incorrect ignition timing (retarded),
bad gas (water or other contamination), an A/C compressor that is dragging, or an EVAP purge valve that is stuck
open and is flooding the engine with fuel vapor. What to check: The throttle body hose connections and idle controls,
also intake vacuum (check the throttle body, manifold and hose connections for leaks, also the PCV valve and hose,
too). With your AutoTap Express DIY, look at engine RPM, calculated engine load, mass air flow rate, throttle position
angle, short term fuel trim (STFT), and ignition timing. On some vehicles, you can also look at the idle control motor
duty cycle or position, and/or idle tracking sensor (if the vehicle has one). In many instances, stalling ends up being
an idle control motor at its limit or a failed motor. A vacuum leak can cause this, so dont replace the idle control
motor until youve evaluated the possibility of a vacuum leak.

Does anybody know of any connection between a leak in the EVAP system and a misfiring/stumbling
engine? I believe that either my EVAP canister and/or the hoses that connect to it may be damaged and,
in the past 2 days while it is about 66 degrees outside, the car has a tendency to stumble every once in a
while. When it stumbles, she slows dramatically for a second and then resumes normal driving. In
addition, the CEL comes on for that second while the engine is stumbling but then goes out immediately
afterwards.

I would say it is just a misfire but I thought the CEL stays on after a misfire is detected...The other day I
had my codes read and cleared. The only one that came up was a leak in the EVAP system...I'll try to
"Keep It Simple Stupid" and make sure my gas cap is tight, but I doubt this is the problem.

Reply:
That said, a purge valve will cause exactly those symptoms (a random misfire), and hard
starting. It lets the fumes from the canister into the intake manifold at idle/starting, when it is
supposed to wait til a higher RPM and then burn those fumes off.

The evaporative emissions system control (EVAP) system is designed to trap gas tank fumes. The system
consists of the fuel tank, vapor lines, liquid vapor separator to prevent liquid gasoline from entering
the system and the EVAP Canister, which has a purge valve on it. Fumes are trapped inside the
canister, which is full of activated carbon. At certain times during engine operation, the canister purge
valve opens up letting fresh air into the canister. This in turn forces the trapped gas fumes back into
the engine's air intake and thus burned inside the engine.

Should the system develop a leak as a result of corrosion eating the lines or a compromised canister,
the system will throw an "EVAP Leak" code in the computer. To fix the problem, one has to find the
leak, or faulty component, fix or replace it, and reset the system. The whole process of diagnosis and
repair typically runs from $100 to $700, depending on what's needed.
Symptoms of Bad Canister EVAP

1. Rough idle

One of the first symptoms that a faulty canister purge valve may produce is a rough idle. If the canister
purge valve fails and sticks open, it will create a vacuum leak that can affect the engine idle speed and
quality. A vacuum leak can also be created if the purge solenoid, or any of the hoses that may be
attached to it break or become damaged.

2. Difficulty starting

Another symptom commonly associated with a bad canister purge solenoid is difficult starting. Again, if
a vacuum leak is created as a result of any problem with the canister purge solenoid, that may cause
the vehicle to have difficulty starting reliably. A vacuum leak will allow unmetered air into the engine,
which can disturb the air fuel ratio and cause performance issues.