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Necessary software and hardware:

Bases:
First, remember that Im a French guy so my English is not perfect ;) If you see any mistakes, dont
hesitate to tell me so I can correct them (my email is at the end of the document).

To achieve this project, you need to have a solid knowledge in electronics, programming, and you
need to know how to use basic tools to make the box. You need to be familiar with the Arduino ! If
you cant code, solder, or the Ohms law doesnt ring any bell to you, then youll have a hard time
following this tutorial! I will neither explain how to use the Arduino nor the ProtoShield (there a
plenty of tutorials about that on the Internet!)

Hardware:
- An Arduino Uno or Mega
- A PC CD player motor (a simple DC 12V motor, not brushless) and with the head
- A wood box (size: 25x15x5cm; 10x5x2inches)
- LEDs (and the appropriate resistors, around 330 usually):
o 2 blue
o 3 red
o 4 orange
o 5 green
- 3 potentiometers
- 4 switches
- 1 Protoshield for your Arduino + HE14 connectors to plug it on the Arduino
- Heat-shrink sleeve

Software:
- Traktor Pro
- Serial Midi Converter V2D
- LoopBe 30 (demo, works for 1h)
- Arduino Software

Files:
- Source code and Traktor config file [ZIP]
The box
Place the components and draw their position:
Drill holes:
Advices:
Use a flat-headed drill for the motors hole (24mm for mine)

Only use wood drills if you dont want to rip everything out.

For the LEDs, use a 1mm drill or small nails.


Paint it black
Advices:
Obstruct the holes with some tape underneath.
Place the buttons, potentiometers, LEDs:
Advices:
Make sure you put the anode (-) of all LEDs on the same side (shorter leg), and bend it inward.

You can paste the LEDs with hot glue.


Soldering (now, thats the fun part):
Schematic:

So, here is the schematic you need to follow (you just need to add one orange LED (after LED8). There
are 11 volume LEDs, so 5 green, 4 oranges and 2 red, plugged in digital from 30 to 40).

Remember where you plug all the components; youre going to need that for the code, if you dont
follow the schematics to the letter.
Begin to solder the power cables (GND, +5V and +3.3V)
- Connect one leg of all the potentiometers (left or right, not in the middle), and the anode of
the LEDs : its the ground (GND on the Arduino)
- Connect the opposite leg of all the potentiometers, and of leg of each button : its the +5V on
the Arduino
- 3.3V will be connected to on pin of the motor, and to an analog pin on the Arduino, which
will be used as a reference.

Place the H14 connectors on the Protoshield and solder them:


- 5 analog pins (A##) (1 for the motor, 1 for the 3.3V reference, 3 for the potentiometers)
- 11 (volume LEDs) + 4 (buttons) = 15 digital
- 3 PWM (Beat + Jog LEDs)
- GND, 3.3V & 5V pins

Begin to solder to the Protoshield


- Connect the other leg of each button to the ground with a pull-down resistor (1k~10k)
and to the Protoshield (digital).
- Solder the cables for the LEDs to the Protoshield (digital 30-40) with a resistor, just like that:

- Then connect the LEDs to the Protoshield with the previously soldered cables. (Dont forget
the heat-shrink sleeve!) (Volume LEDs are digital, beat and jog LEDs are PWM).
- Heat up the heat-shrink sleeve to isolate the LEDs to avoid short-circuits.
- Connect the beat and jog LEDs cathode (+) to the Protoshield (PWM).
- Connect the potentiometers (middle led) to the analog pins on the ProtoShield (A##).
- Connect the second motor pin to the ProtoShield (analog).
- Solder the ground on the ProtoShield GND
- Solder +5V and +3.3V on the ProtoShield.
Plug the ProtoShield onto the Arduino, and thats how it should look like!

Just need to hot glue a CD on the motor!


Code part
Communication for the Arduino to Traktor

Physical Arduino : Traktor (recieving


PC (Serial to
controller Encoding the 3 MIDI bytes and
LoopBe's MIDI
(potentiometer, signal in MDID (3 executing the
port forwarding)
button) bytes) action)

Configuration:
You first need to tell the Arduino where the components are, if you didnt exactly follow the pin
mapping on the schematic: You need to modify two places: The declarations at the beginning of the
code: for example:
int keyPinPot = A0;

Here, I say that my key potentiometer it plugged on A0. If youre familiar with the Arduino (hope so)
then you got the idea, it the same for the rest.

You also need to the same for the volume LEDs: just after void setup() opens:

led[0]=30; //1st LED placement


led[1]=31; //2nd LED placement...
led[2]=32;
led[3]=33;
led[4]=34;
led[5]=35;
led[6]=36;
led[7]=37;
led[8]=38;
led[9]=39;
led[10]=40;

Upload the code.

LoopBe30
- Install LoopBe30 (demo version closes after one hour, but LoopBe1 doesnt allow you to the
115200 bps as baud rate.)
- Open it and click on Change to modify Ports after Reboot , set it to 2
- Uncheck Enable Shortcut Detection
- Hit OK and reboot
Traktor
- Once Traktor is installed, go to File , Preferences , Controller Manager , Add ,
Import , choose midi.tsi (previously downloaded in the ZIP file).
- Make sure In-Port & Out-Port are set on All Ports
Utilization:
Serial_Midi_V2D :
- Open \application.windows\Serial_MIDI_Converter_V2D.exe (requires Java)
- Press the key corresponding to your COM port (where the Arduino is, of course)
- Choose [F] : 115200bps
- MIDI INPUT Port: 02. Internal MIDI
- MIDI OUTPUT Port: 01.Internel MIDI
- Make sure Converter is running is written in the bottom left hand corner

RocknRoll :
Open Traktor, and start to mix!

If you need to contact me, send me an email at louis.jeckel@outlook.com I speak English, Deutch and
Franais!