Grey Inspection & Fabric Defects

Aravin Prince Periyasamy

Assistant Professor
Dept of Textiles, DKTE Textile Engineering Institute
Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra, India
aravinprince@gmail.com
0091-9790080302
Inspection
Definition:

Activities such as Measuring, Examining, Testing, Gauging, one or

more characteristics of a product or source comparing these
with specific requirements to determine conformity.

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 Grey cloth from weaving have many faults ( Broken ends and picks, stains
and etc)

Many of these faults can be corrected at grey stage before wet

processing .

Also in grey inspection following points are checked,

EPI, PPI, Width and Length of fabric & GSM.

Principles
3cs Of Inspection
Every Inspection Is
Involving 3cs .

Check

Compare

Conclude
 Inspection Instruments / Tools
The assessment may be carried out usually or by
Pick glass
Measurement by tape
Visual
UV lamp
Streak analyzer
Spotting with Shirley stain or similar staining agents

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 Types of Inspections

Flow Based

Point Based
Flow Based Fabric Inspection
Minor Faults:
1 defects within 15 CM is considered as a minor faults.

Major Faults:
Within 15 CM More than 1 defects is considered as a Major Defects

Selvedge Defects
Incase of furnishing fabric minor selvedge defects like pulled in selvedge
are considered as major defects

Small defects are nearer to the selvedge means, it will not considered to the
serious problem.
Point Based Fabric Inspection

Fabric Inspection:

There are Three types

4 Point system
10 Point system
Mil- Standards
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4 Point System

In 4 Points system of grading, faults are scored with penalty of 1, 2, 3 and 4

according to the size and significance

Size of Defect Penalty Points

Upto 3 inches 1

>3 to 6 inches 2

>6 to 9 inches 3

Above 9 inches 4
 Four Point System

Maximum of 4penalty points can be assigned for any single defect

- No linear yard / meter can be assigned more than 4 points regardless of

number of defects within the yard/meter.
Employing the following criteria:
The defects in both wrap/weft, course/wale directions will be
assigned points

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 10 Point System

In 10 Points system of grading, faults are scored with penalty of 1, 3, 5 and 10

according to the size and significance

Size of Defect Penalty Points

1 inches or less 1

Over 1 but not over 5 3

Over 5 not over 10 5

Over 10 / full width 10

Application
Point count calculation For Individual Roll:

Points per 100 Sq. yards = Total linear points x 3600

Length in Yds x Fabric width in inches

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Eg (Calculation)
Knitted fabric length is 58 yds, width 60 inch for inspection. Following defects and points can be found (4 Point
Method),

Size of Defects Defects Total Points

Upto 3 Inch 2 2X1= 2
3- 6 Inch 3 3X2= 6
6 9 Inch 2 2X3= 6
More than 9 Inch 1 1X4= 4
Total Points Earned 18 Points

Points per 100 Sq. yards = Total linear points x 3600

Length in Yds x Fabric width in inches
Points / 100 Sq Yds = 18 X 3600
58 X 60
Points / 100 Sq Yds = 18.63
As per the standard less than 40 points / 100 sq yds is considered First Class
As per the standard more than 40 points / 100 sq yds is considered Second Class
Different Color Tags for Different Processes & Defects
In export two types of tag used

Red tag
It represented the critical defects

White tag
It represented minor defects (add 10 CM of fabric wherever defects is present)
Knitted Woven
Barre Bar
Birdseye Broken ends
Broken pattern Broken picks
Run Burl marks
Skip Stitch Coarse End/Pick
Dropped stitches Crack
End out Float
Misdraw
Missing yarn
Fly waste
Jerk-in
Some Common
Mixed Yarn Knots Fabric Defects
Needle Line Off Pattern
Press off Reed Mark
Slack end
Slough off
Slub
Smash
Soiled / Oily Filling

Processing Defects : Bow/Skew, Color Out, Color Smear, Doctor Streak, Dye Stain, Out of
register, Sanforize pucker, Seam impression, Scrimp
Woven fabric inspection

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 Advantages
End of roll automatic stop sensor - For next roll joining

This will allow for efficient continuous inspection, from roll to roll.

Accurate fabric length and optional weight measurements

Fabric roll length and weight can be taken using industrial standard measuring systems with

digital readouts to give consistent fabric roll assessments.

Auto adjustable tension

Automatic adjustable tension of fabric when rewinding.

Data collection and analysis system - With fabric fault tagging

100% fabric inspection with simple push-button accurate fault logging, roll length and weight measurement allowing
for accurate fabric roll analysis and printout.

www.cihanmakina.com
Knitted Fabric Inspection
List of fabric defects in woven fabrics

Coloured flecks Missing ends

Knots Missing Pick
Slub Oil and other stain
Broken ends woven in a Oily ends
bunch
Oily picks
Broken pattern
Reed mark
Double end
Slough off
Float Shuttle smash
Gout Snarls
Hole, cut, or tear Stitches
Lashing-In Untrimmed loose threads
Local distortion Weft bar
Coloured Flecks
COLOURED FLECKS : Presence
of coloured foreign matter in the
yarn.

CAUSES : Cotton fibres getting

contaminated during the ginning
stage with leaves, immature
fibre, yellow fibre, etc.

MENDING: Coloured portion is

removed from the yarn with a
plucker. The resultant bare
patch can be corrected by
combing with metallic comb.
Knots
Knots : Knot is a
fastening made by
tying together the
ends of yarn.

Causes : Thread
breaks during process
of winding, warping,
sizing or weaving.

MENDING: Non
Mendable.
Slub Slub : Slub is a bunch of yarn
having less twist or no twist and
has a wider diameter compared to
normal spun yarn.

Causes : Improper carding/

combing.
Broken tooth in the chain of gear
system.

Mending: The slub should be

cut with the clipper from both the
ends. The resultant bare patch can
be corrected by combing with a
metallic comb or by insertion of a
separate thread with the help of
fine needle.
Broken pattern
Broken pattern : A
broken pattern is the
non continuity of a
weave/ design/ pattern.

CAUSES :
Wrong drawing in of
threads.
Incorrect shedding.

MENDING: Non
Mendable.
Broken Ends woven in a bunch
Broken ends woven in a bunch :
This defect is caused by a bunch of
broken ends woven into the fabric.

CAUSE : Failure of the weaver in

attending the warp breaks properly.

MENDING: The broken ends woven in

a bunch can be removed by using a
plucker and the resulting loose ends
should be cut with clipper. As a result, a
bare patch occurs and combing in both
directions with a metallic comb can fill
this up.
Double end Double end : When two or
more ends gets woven as one.
This defect is characterized by
a thick bar running parallel to
the warp.

CAUSES : Wrong drawing,

taking more ends in heald eye.

MENDING: This fault can be

corrected by pulling out the
extra end with the help of
needle. A bare patch is formed
and can be filled by combing in
both directions with the help of
metallic comb.
Float
Float : Float is the improper
interlacement of warp and weft
threads over a certain area.

CAUSES :
Improper sizing (ends
sticking).
Broken end entangling with
the other ends.

MENDING: Only minor floats

can be rectified. The floating
threads are cut with a clipper .
Combing in both direction
rectifies the resultant patch.
Gout
Gout : Gout is a foreign matter
accidently woven into the
fabric.

CAUSES :
Improper loom cleaning.
Unclean environment.

MENDING: The extra foreign

matter can be pulled out with a
plucker. Combing in both
direction rectifies the resultant
patch.
Hole, Cut, Tear Hole, Cut or Tear : This is self
explanatory.

CAUSES :
Sharp edges on cloth roll.
Hard substance between
layers of fabric in cloth roll.
Course temples used for fine
fabric.
During removal of hard
particles like, Iron particles
woven in the cloth.

MENDING: Non mendable.

Missing Ends
Missing Ends : The fabric is characterised by a gap, parallel to the
warp. The number of ends missing may be one or more.

CAUSES :
Loom not equipped with warp stop motion.
Dirty drop wires or accumulation of lint may prevent their dropping.
In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are dirty or corroded.

MENDING: When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the fault
can be rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb.
This may fill the bare patch formed due to missing ends.
Missing Picks Missing Picks : A narrow streak
running parallel with weft threads
caused due to absense of weft.

CAUSES :
Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
Faulty weft-stop motion.
Fell of the cloth not adjusted after
loom stoppage for mending.

MENDING: When there are only two

adjacent picks missing, the fault can
be rectified by combing in both
directions using a metallic comb.
This may fill the bare patch formed
due to missing ends.
Untrimmed Loose Threads

Untrimmed loose threads : Any

hanging threads on the face
of the fabrics are termed as
loose threads.

CAUSE : Tail ends not trimmed

after piecing up.

MENDING: These defects can

be easily rectified with the
help of clipper.
Weft Bar
Weft bar : An unwanted bar,
running across the full width of
a piece which differs in
appearance from the adjacent
normal fabric.

CAUSES :
Difference in count, twist,
colour, lustre.
Faulty let-off and take-up
motion.

MENDING: Non mendable .

Shuttle Smash Shuttle smash : Ruptued cloth
structure characterised by
many broken warp ends and
floating picks.

CAUSES :
Improper timing.
Insufficient picking force.
Slack ends in certain
portion. The sagging ends
obstructs shuttle flight.

MENDING: Non mendable.

Lashing in Lashing in : An extra piece of yarn
woven into the fabric in the vicinity of
the selvedge.

CAUSES :
Defective setting of the shuttle box.
Early or late picking.
In case of auto loom, weft cutters
worn out or not set properly

MENDING: This defect can be

corrected by pulling out the extra pick
from the selvedge end, which can be
clipped with the help of clipper. A bare
patch is formed and can be filled by
combing in both directions with the help
of metallic comb.
Oil Or Stain
Oil Or Other Stain: These are spot defects of oil, rust, grease or
other stains found in the fabric.

CAUSES :
Improper oiling/greasing of looms.
Oil stained Take up roller.

MENDING:
1. Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad.
Apply the stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion
throughly.
2. Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3. Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid
spreading.
4. Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole
formation or displacement of the fabric will occur.
Oily Ends
Oily Ends : These are oily warp ends.

CAUSES :
Improper handling and storage of material in spinning department.
Oil-contaminated guides and oily hands during process of warping.
Improper handling of warp beams.

MENDING:
1) Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply
the stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion
throughly.
2) Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3) Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid
spreading.
Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole
formation or displacement of the fabric will occur.
Oily Weft
Oily weft : These are oily weft picks.

CAUSES :
Improper handling and storing in spinning department.
Weft package falling on oily ground.
Handling the weft with oily hands.
Weft carring baskets having oil.
Dropping of oil on weft package during oiling of the winding machine.

MENDING:
1) Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply the stain
remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion throughly.
2) Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3) Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid spreading.
Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole formation or
displacement of the fabric will occur.
Local Distortion
Local distortion : A Distortion occurs when there is displacement of
warp and/or weft threads from their normal position.

CAUSES :
The emery roll is worn out.
In filament fabric having low reed picks.

MENDING: This defect can be corrected by combing in both

directions using a mettalic comb.
Reed
Marks
Reed Marks : A warp way crack caused by a damaged
or defective reed.

CAUSES : Defective or damaged reed.

MENDING: Non Mendable.

 List of fabric defects in terry and
velvet fabrics

Broken pattern
Pile less spot
Uneven or loose piles
Broken Pattern Due To Defective Piles
Broken pattern due to defective piles : A broken pattern is
the result of non-continuity of the design/pattern in the pile
fabric.

CAUSES :
Improper working of terry motion on loom.
Improper functioning of jacquard.
Missing pick.

MENDING: Non mendable.

Pile Less Spot
 Pile less spot : It is a spot without the pile

CAUSES :
Improper working of terry motion on loom.
Improper functioning of jacquard.

MENDING: Non mendable

Uneven Or Loose Piles
 Uneven or loose piles : In this type of defect there
is variation in the pile height over the surface of
the fabric.

CAUSES :
Improper working of terry motion on loom.
Improper functioning of jacquard.
Missing pick.

MENDING: Non Mendable.

List of fabric defects in Knitted fabrics

Bariness
Bunching up
Drop stitch
Holes or Crack
Crack fall out
Horizontal srtipes
Verticle stripes
Bariness
Bariness : A fabric defect characterized by
textural bands or color bands in the course
direction of a weft knitted fabric.

CAUSES :
Use of irregular yarn having higher long term
irregularities.
Using different count thread.

MENDING: Non Mendable.

Bunching up
 Bunching up : This is largely influnced by take-up
mechanism and whether it functions properly or
not.

CAUSES :
Fabric take-up too weak.
Thick place in yarn.

MENDING: Non Mendable.

Drop stitch
 Drop stitch: Local column of dropped stitches.

CAUSES :
Yarn guide not set poroperly (i.e yarn is not fed properly during loop formation).
Defective latch needle.
yarn tension is not sufficient.
Take-down is too high.
Wrong yarn threading.

MENDING: This fault can be corrected by stitches reforming using a simple needle.

CAN BE AVOIDED BY:

Precise yarn-guide setting.
Needle change.
Dial position readjustment.
Use of fabric fault detector.
Holes or crack
 Holes or crack : Local holes obtained when yarn breaks
during loop formation.

CAUSES :
Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct.
Weak places in yarn, Which breaks during loop formation
Knots.
Yarn running tension is too high.

CAN BE AVOIDED BY :
Use of flat knots.
Accurate yarn guide setting.
Use of fabric fault detector.
Use of yarn having lower hariness.
Horizontal Stripes
 Horizontal stripes : Are caused by uneveness in
the courses. They traverse horizontally and repeat
themselves regularly or irregularly.

CAUSES :
Yarn feeder set badly.
Differences in the yarn running-in tension.
Jerky impulse from fabric take up .

Mending : Non mendable.

Verticle Stripes
 Verticle stripes : They can be observed as longitudnal gaps
in the fabric. The space between adjacent wales is
irregular.

CAUSES :
Bent needles.
Heavily running needles.
Damaged latch needle.
Damaged needle hook.
Damaged dial or cylinder.

CAN BE AVOIDED BY :
Needles and sinkers change after long time use.
Use of fabric fault detector.
Contamination
Holes
Dirt soil
Shade Variation
Miss Print
 Processing Defects yet to prepare..

Thanks for watching slide, any correction please inform.

Further details Contact:

Aravin Prince Periyasamy

Assistant Professor
Dept of Textiles, DKTE Textile Engineering Institute
Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra, India
aravinprince@gmail.com
0091-9790080302