PATTERN

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto
fabric before being cut out and assembled.
It can be done on the paper or CAD.

Pre-Requites For Pattern

1. Sketch/docket with full details of front & back from Designer.
2. Pattern Master and fit technician should have a Discussion regarding the requirement.
3. Type of Fabric margins are given different for different fabric
4. Measurements
5. Shapes - styling
6. Details of Trim Fabric for separate description

PATTERN MAKING TOOLS

1. Measurement tape :
It is used to measure the size of pattern.

2. Pattern Paper:
it is a paper on which pattern is drawn .

3. Pen And Pencil:

Mechanical pencil and sharpener which is used for pattern work.Red and blue colored pencils are used
to identify pattern changes. Black, green, red and blue felt tip pens for pattern information.

4. Sets Square :

5. Ruler :
Tailors square (24 14) inch metal ruler with two arms forming a 90 angle that measures, rules and
squares simultaneously.it is also used to triangle with the measurements to square lines.

6. Eraser :
It is used to erase the pattern if pattern is not in correct form.

7. Tracing Wheel :
It is used to transfer pattern shape into paper.

8. French Curve :
French curve is one of the several curves used for shaping arm hole and neck line.

9. Awl :
It is used to indicate the ending of darts, pocket, trim and button hole placements.
 10 . Notcher :
It is used to indicate seam allowance, center line and also to identify front and back of patterns

MAKING PATTERN FOR TOP

Make a Basic Block as per Spec after that pattern will be made Construction Lines

Draw a straight line

High Point Shoulder to Bottom end for length
Width wise Measurements is divided into 4 (centre font to side seam or centre back to Side seam )
Neck Width to be marked at the top
Across neck width Edge to Edge
Back Neck Drop mark
High point shoulder to Neck Bottom End
Front Neck Drop mark
High Point shoulder To Front Bottom End
Across Shoulder mark
Across Shoulder edge to edge
Across Front and Back mark
Across Front Edge to edge
Across Back Edge to Edge
Chest /Bust
Armhole measurements mark
Sleeve length and open
Make the basic Pattern after that Separate all the Parts
Style wise addition using base block

Box Pleat

Back Box Pleat Made under the Yoke Seam as per Spec

Bust Dart

Hps to Chest Mid-point and Underarm to Chest Mid point as per Spec

Waist Dart Length and width to be as per Spec

Gather to be given at Neck Line or Shoulder

Gather to be Distributed Equally make Notch at start & end points

One Size Grading

For Length Measurements Follow Graded Spec

Bust / Chest, Waist & Bottom to be divided into 4 as Per Graded Spec

Armhole Measurements to be divided into 2 Except Yoke Height

Collar /Collar Band /Cuff Height/Sleeve Placket to be same for All Size.

Collar Band and Cuff length divided into 2 as per Spec

Full Sleeve /Half Sleeve length to be graded as per Spec

What is the Differences between Good Pattern and Bad Pattern ?

GOOD PATTERN BAD PATTERN

Seam allowance marked in Pattern Seam allowance not marked in pattern

Pocket attaching & embroidery placement No placement specified/marked

Notches to identify specific placement Missing notches

Numbering of all parts in pattern Parts without numbering

Pattern & parts cut in appropriate shape Pattern & parts cu t zig zag

Naming of parts on the pattern No naming of parts

Grain line indicator No grain indication

Specs to be written on pattern Missing spec on pattern

Pattern with size & date Pattern without size/date

Quantity of cut parts to be mentioned No quantity of cut parts

PATTERN LOOK AND FEASIBILITY

A. Pattern should be presentable

B. Grain line as per sketch (bias requirement, warp & weft grain etc.)
C. Seam allowance as per requirement (overlock, double needle stitch etc.)
D. Pattern should represent all stitching details so that a tailor can understand and do the needful without
any major doubt or guidance from others.