THE STYLE MANUAL THAT STARTED IT ALL

TH

Big
THE

EDITION

Book FALL/WINTER 2016

A N D R E W L AU R E N
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N E V E R S T O P B E I N G A N AT H L E T E

T H I S I S T E C H N I C A L A P PA R E L

FOR YOUR REAL LIFE

VAN C OUV E R
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 The
BIG BLACK BOOK

The Portfolios
No. 1
What, This Old Thing?
Every vintage item tells a story. We asked eight well-dressed men to let their
favorite heirloom pieces do the talking. 98

No. 2
Street Fighting Man
Newly minted pop sensation BRNS presents a compelling visual argument for dressing with the
not-so-quiet condence of a rock star. 112

No. 3
Ciao Napoli!
Naples, Italythe birthplace of modern tailoringis still a hotbed of culture,
culinary delights, and unrivaled style. 142

V I N TA G E S T Y L E
The best vintage stores in the world, editors
picks, essential tips for buying on
eBay, and the one book you must own
if youre in the market for a French
World War I flight suit.
110
The Information
THE BEST OF
Ten years of the Big Black Book, ten years of damn
good advice: How to sew a button, tie your
shoes with a Windsor knot, compliment a woman,
greet a colleague, cure a hangover, sear a steak,
and everything in between.
132
NAPLES
Adopt a Neapolitan way of life on your next trip
to Italy: Navigate the city like a local, avoid
a common coffee-related faux pas, seek out the
best dress shirts in Europe, andtrust us on
this onetry the deep-fried pizza.
158

No. 29
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 The

L et t er f rom Mag n u m
THE EDITOR FORCE
Aldo Sohm, wine director at Manhattans

bar, crushes the grape game.

58

Hau li n g
CLASS
Guys who demand the best in
automotive luxury are finding it in the
back of a pickup truck.
62

The topcoat is the new sport coat. Discuss.

Only If It 76

SUITS YOU
The secret to buying a Savile Row W hat Ive Le ar n e d:
suit is knowing that, much as at Burger
King, you can have it your way. 10-YE A R
EDITIO N
E T ERNALS A dozen tastemakers share life
lessons from the past decade
Everything youll want to wear in the give or take a few years.
DGAF era.
82
36

O n e To u g h Fresh
M U DD E R FACES
Esquire fashion director Nick Sullivan The six standout watches of the season.
gets down and dirty in a classic car. 86
48

Sacre d

How not to freeze your face

T h e Peaks of
PERFECTION
Those who know their way around the
slopes ski Cortina dAmpezzo. Plus: How to
be the best-dressed man in the lift line.
54
SPACES
off this winter, courtesy of three From Frdric Malles New York City
cold-weather kings. apartment to Olivier Zahms
Parisian penthouse, the places that
72 inspire creative people.
126
Hardware Update Is
AVAILAB LE My Favor i t e
The DSLR camera, short-throw projector, and TH IN G
wireless home speaker you need nowand Fashion designer Brunello Cucinelli
the smart football you had no idea existed. on the perfect writing utensil.
74 162

No. 30
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

BELOW, TOP TO
BOTTOM: A leather
motorcycle helmet
from Hanmi; a
Finn Juhl chair and
Ralph Lauren Home
cocktail table; a
photograph of
Chevy Chase by
Harry Bensonjust
a few of the ele-
ments that inspire
me in my office.

THE BIG TEN

A DECADE USED TO BE AN ETERNITY, but these last the option to order off the menu. Youll also see this
ten yearsas chronicled in Esquires Big Black maverick streak in our story on the make-your-
Book, the original style biblehave seen more own-rules way of dressing of eight eBay addicts
variations on the theme of what it means to be cool- who pair current-season clothes with treasured,
ly turned out than the previous century. Just think one-of-a-kind vintage pieces. And you see it in the
of the term bespoke. What was once a rather weird- rebellious, on-the-verge fashion sense of the mu-
sounding adjective used by the likes of Prince sician BRNS, whose song Electric Love was
Charles has become as much a part of what we talk dubbed an instant classic by Taylor Swift.
about when it comes to good clothes as designer Esquire, and by extension the Big Black Book, be-

I N T E R I O R D E S I G N B Y C A R R I E R A N D C O M PA N Y; P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S U S A N P I T TA R D
sneakers or Japanese denim or quality American lieves style is dened not simply by what you wear
classics or the kind of genuinely exciting novelty but by your command of the world
best described with the f-word of fashion. and everything in itin short, by
The previous sentence used to describe at least four dif- how you live, which includes, of
ferent types of guys; today, it describes a fthone who course, what you live in. In that
isnt into the dogma of any single school of mens style, but spirit, we also put together a port-
who has the condence to move among them all, buying folio of private spaces that express
what he likes and making it his own. What this guy says the completely original personali-
when he gets dressed in the morning is not What rules ties of their owners. Good design,
should I follow? but What rules should I break? like good style, is best when its
This was the initial idea that gave birth to the Big Black unapologetically itself. How does
Book in 2006, when Esquire fashion director a taste for an old Barbour jacket
Nick Sullivan noticed this new breed of guy, with a denim suit nd further expression in
who was starting to dress not to blend in but to an ashtray from Bar Hemingway and a pair of
stand out. Take some of the stories from this edi- Finn Juhl chairs in an office on the 21st oor of
tion as proof of this continued evolution: Alex a building by Norman Foster? Im not entirely
Bilmes (my counterpart at UK Esquire) brings sure, but, as I said, Im not one to apologize
us the latest in redenition from Savile Row, the about such things. And I doubt you are, either.
home of the traditional suit, and relates how
the vaunted Kilgour is shaking up the street JA Y F I E L D E N
by offering its customersblasphemy! Editor in Chief

No. 032
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01
ChrisHemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure by taming
it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind.
TAGHeuer.com
 LE
CYC THIS
RE M

AG
AS

A ZI
PL E

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REMOV

NG
THE BIG BLACK BOOK

CLI
E IN

CY
RE
SE
RT
SO RE
RS FO
A M P L E S BE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Jay Fielden

EDITOR Nick Sullivan E X E C U T I V E D I R E C T O R O F E D I T O R I A L Michael Hainey
E D I T O R I A L D I R E C T O R Helene F. Rubinstein D E S I G N D I R E C T O R David Curcurito S E N I O R E D I T O R David Walters

M A N A G I N G E D I T O R John Kenney D I R E C T O R O F P H O T O G R A P H Y Michael Norseng

E D I T O R , S T Y L E Jason Chen C U L T U R E A N D L I F E S T Y L E E D I T O R Kevin Sintumuang C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I T O R Jon Roth

ART
ART DIRECTOR Jessica Musumeci A S S O C I AT E A R T D I R E C TO R Tito Jones D I G I TA L I M AG I N G S P E C I A L I S T Leonardo R. Celestino
PHOTOGRAPHY
PHOTO EDITOR Stacey Pittman A S S I S TA N T P H OTO E D I TO R Larisa Kline PHOTO RESEARCHER Alison Unterreiner
FAS H I O N
Matthew Marden M A R K E T E D I T O R Michael Stefanov
FAS H I O N D I REC TO R

MARKET EDITOR Benjamin Liong Setiawan F A S H I O N A S S I S T A N T Alfonso Fernndez Navas

COPY AND RESEARCH
Robert Scheff ler
RESEARCH EDITOR

COPY EDITORS Alisa Cohen Barney, Christine A. Leddy A S S I S T A N T R E S E A R C H EDITOR Ambrose Martos
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I N T E G R A T E D A U T O M O T I V E D I R E C T O R Mark Fikany M I D W E S T D I R E C T O R Justin Harris

I N T E G R A T E D A C C O U N T D I R E C T O R , S O U T H W E S T Anthony P. Imperato W E S T C O A S T D I R E C T O R Sandy Adamski

M I D W E S T A C C O U N T M A N A G E R , D E T R O I T Bryce A. Vredevoogd A C C O U N T D I R E C T O R & N E W E N G L A N D Brian Kantor

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Pacific Northwest Andrea Wiener, Athena Media Partners 415-828-0908

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I N T E G R AT I O N A S S O C I AT E S
Gina Azzolini, Mary Jane Boscia, Jake Fried, Caitlin Morton, Michael Okubo, Toni Starrs, Yvonne Villareal
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Published at 300 West Fifty-seventh Street, New York, NY 10019-3797. Editorial offices: (212) 649-4020. Advertising offices: (212) 649-4050
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No. 034
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

AGJE ANS.COM
 The Code
PERMANENT COLLECTION

The

New
E T E R NA L S
We seem to live in a DGAF agein which personal style has
upended long-held rules. Suits at work? No, thanks.
T-shirts with ties? Yes! So what is the key to looking great in this
new era? Realizing quality and taste will always endure.
By Nick Sullivan

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID PRINCE

No. 036
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 New Balance
I N T H E PAST , we built our wardrobes as a musician might compose
a piece of music: along recognized lines, with recurrent motifs,
consistent rhythms, and occasional dissonance underlying an overall
harmony. But style isnt Vivaldi anymore. Unique one-off pieces
such as Guccis poison-apple-green snake-decorated leather tote and
Valentinos classic derbies, with their gold-studded soles, epitomize
the why-not tendency in mens fashion right now. What to pair
with these totems of badassery? A classic outerwear staple, natu-
rally, such as Joseph Abbouds grainy herringbone topcoat.

Coat ($1,195) by Joseph Abboud; josephabboud.com. Tote bag

($1,980) by Gucci; gucci.com. Studded derby shoes ($1,395) by
Valentino Garavani; 212-355-5811. Lounge chair (price upon request)
by Matter Made; mattermatters.com.
The Code
PERMANENT COLLECTION

Tr e n d - P r o o f
IN FASH ION, we used to get bogged down in the
future of the tie. Now were all seeking out fail-
safe pieces that will forever be impervious to the
vagaries of the seasonsuch as Berlutis supple
gray shearling bomber.

Shearling bomber ($5,450) by Berluti; 212-439-

6400. Runwell chronograph ($800) by Shinola;
shinola.com. Desk lamp ($9,950) by Herms;
hermes.com. X1D camera ($8,995) by Hasselblad;
hasselblad.com. Sunglasses ($590) by Dior
Homme; dior.com. Notebook ($60), wallet ($300),
and fountain pen ($870) by Montblanc; montblanc.
com. Play Green fragrance ($110) by Commes
des Garons; 212-604-0013.

No. 038
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
PERMANENT COLLECTION

Bright Idea
W H I L E OU R C LO SETS still,
for the most part, stick to
that always tasteful palette
of blues and grays and
browns, sometimes you just
have to land with both feet
outside your comfort zone.
Bright knits (like Etros
distressed-hem pink cash-
mere sweater) and bold plaids
(like Guccis wool robe) put
zip into the most unexpected
elements of your outt.

Robe ($1,170) by Gucci;

gucci.com. Turtleneck sweater
($1,782) by Etro; etro.com.
Shoes (price upon request) by
Salvatore Ferragamo; tramezza.
ferragamo.com. Briefcase
($1,675) by Boglioli; boglioli.it.

No. 040
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dressy Casual
B ASI C I S A LL F INE and dandy, but why shouldnt our most laid-back
clothes do as much for us as our most formal ones? More and more,
they do. The revolution does not mean that our clothes have become
plainrather, it means that what we once termed streetwear has
become luxurious, as shown by the guys from Public School, who prac-
tically created the category of premium joggers. These days, as much
thought goes into the cloth and cut of a pair of DSquared2 chinos or a
Tomas Maier leather jacket as goes into a silk tuxedo. Sneakers, like
these by Greats, are no longer mere throwaway kicks. The hallmarks
of great designthe materials, attention, and carenow apply just as
strongly to the weekend uniform.

Sneakers ($49) by Greats; greats.com. Jacket ($2,900) by Tomas Maier;

tomasmaier.com. Trousers ($590) by DSquared2; dsquared2.com. Notebook
($75) by Smythson; smythson.com. Classic Fusion Berluti watch ($14,600)
by Hublot; 646-582-9813. 1899 fragrance ($185) by Histoires de Parfums;
odinnewyork.com. Shaving brush ($156) by Mhle; muehleusa.com. Wallet
($55) and key chain ($35) by J.W. Hulme Co.; jwhulmeco.com. Candle ($62)
by Diptyque; nordstrom.com.

No. 042
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
PERMANENT COLLECTION

R o u g h L u xe
HOUNDSTOOTH IS AS OLD as the Scottish hills from which it came, a jazzy clash of dark and light
that once camouaged huntsmen and ghillies for the deer stalk or the pheasant shoot. In natural
color, those rustic references are pretty hard to shake. But shift the color palette toward the darker
end of the spectrumas with this Canali jacketand things get interesting: an urban camouage
texture playing off against heavy suede work boots, like these by Japanese label Visvim, or J. Crews
roomy takepleats, anyone?on classic Donegal tweed.

Boots ($1,030) by Visvim; visvim.tv. Trousers ($250) by J. Crew; jcrew.com. Two-button jacket
($2,895) by Canali; canali.com. Socks ($32) by Smart Turnout; smartturnout.com. Trunk ($9,900) and
wallet ($1,020) by Goyard; goyard.com.

No. 044
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
PERMANENT COLLECTION

Fair Skin
LEAT H ER JAC KET S US E D to be
heavy thingsthick, unyielding,
and robustdesigned to suit
rugged lifestyles. Now theyre
the outerwear of choice for office-
job-to-downtown-dinner types
like Jack Dorsey, whos virtually
become a walking billboard for
the buttery leather moto. Thats
how far the material and construc-
tion of leather jackets have come.
At Tods, craftsmen hand-color
and then polish the nest glovers
leather to give the labels new
capsule range of Pash jackets a
lived-in feel. At Bottega Veneta,
meanwhile, 50 years of experience
are behind the brands trademark
intrecciato (woven) leather. The
supplest calfskin is cut into strips
and then hand-woven to create
bags, clothing, even shoes.

SET DESIGN BY GLEN PROEBSTEL FOR EDGE REPS.

Jacket ($2,825) by Tods; tods.com.
Bag ($3,400) by Bottega Veneta;
800-845-6790. Wallet ($245)
by Smythson; smythson.com. Large
candle holder ($1,200), small
candle holder ($1,050), and horse-
head puzzle ($940) by Herms;
hermes.com. Sculpture (price
upon request) by Sofie Oesterby;
olivergustav.com.

No. 046
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Porsche Design
SOUND

SPACE ONE Active Noise Cancelling Headphones

INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR DESIGN

Rodeo Drive | Ala Moana Center | The Shops at Crystals | South Coast Plaza
Madison Avenue | Aventura Mall | The Galleria Houston | City Creek Center

www.porsche-design.com
The Code
ADVENTURE

One Tough
MUDDER
The Flying Scotsman, a three-day,
700-mile rally from England to Scotland,
is half Downton Abbey, half Mad Max:
Fury Roadan endurance test for classic
cars and their adventurous owners.
Esquire fashion director Nick Sullivan
braved the slop, snow, and period- In its eighth year, the Flying Scotsmannamed for a steam locomotive that once
appropriate attire to satisfy his need ran from London to Edinburghdraws more than 100 two-man teams looking to
put their otherwise lovingly maintained motorcars through hell. CL OCKWISE
for vintage speed. FROM TOP : Sullivan and Simon Arscott, owner of Churchill Classics, beside Ar-
scotts 1928 Bentley 4 Litre; the driver and the navigator of a 1936 Riley Bigley
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS FLOYD Special; a 1930 Bentley Speed Six negotiates water near Caydale Mill, Old Byland.

No. 048
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 ADVERTISEMENT

The Esquire Manhattan

is made with superior Jeffersons bourbon and a combination
of the nest sweet and dry vermouth and bitters. Crafted
with the editors of Esquire and barrel-aged for 90 days,
the result is a damn good cocktail. Serve it up or on the
rocks. No labor or equipment needed.

AVAILABLE AT FINE LIQUOR STORES NATIONWIDE

 The Code
ADVENTURE

CL O CK W I S E F R O M T O P :
Arscott (driving) and
Sullivan on day one at
Belvoir Castle; a team makes
final preparations near the
starting line; local bikers
push Arscott and Sullivans
stalled Bentley outside the
Railway Inn in Acklington,
Northumberland, England;
two uninterested spectators
graze in North York Moors
National Park.

POSTCARDS FROM HELL

From the manly to the masochistic, four
other ways to eliminate rest and relaxation from
your next getaway By Jon Roth

Train Like a SEAL Mountain-Bike the Death Road

The Extreme SEAL Experience, a one-week
course led by a former senior chief in Chesa-
peake, Virginia, welcomes both enlisted men
training for certification and adventurous
civilians looking to be whipped into shape. On
offer: tactical shooting, rappelling courses,
endless push-ups, and a 24-hour survival exer-
cise ominously called Hell Night. Prepare to
be screamed at. extremesealexperience.com
Stretching from La Paz to Coroico, Bolivias
Camino a Los Yungas has been called the worlds
most dangerous roada narrow dirt path
precariously notched into the side of a mountain.
Guardrails? No. Two-way traffic? You betcha.
Yungas has become a popular and sometimes
final destination for extreme mountain
bikers, claiming one to two cyclists per year.
gravitybolivia.com

No. 051
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
ADVENTURE
S U I T A N D RA L LY
How a grown man plays dress-up (and avoids freezing his ass off )

SWEATER
SCARF ($215)
($235) by North Sea
by Drakes; Clothing London;
drakes.com. northsea-
clothing.com.
GOGGLES
($47) by
Halcyon; WORLD
classic- WA R I I
partsltd.com. RAF
AV I AT O R
HELMET
ebay.com.

COAT DRIVING
($5,790) by
GLOVES
Dunhill;
($395) by Dunhill;
dunhill.com.
dunhill.com.

BOOTS
($425)
JUMPSUIT by Grenson;
($312) by Private grenson.com.
White V.C.; private-
whitevc.com.

CL O CK W I S E F R O M T O P LE F T : Arscott and Sullivan

barrel down a dirt road on their way to a respectable 44th-place
finish (out of 106); a flying-goddess hood ornament on a
1937 Cadillac 60 Series coupe; a mud-splattered 1936 Alvis
Speed 25; the well-dressed driver of a 1928 Bentley 4 Litre.

POSTCARDS FROM HELL (CONTD.)

Ta k e a D a y T r i p t o C h e r n o b y l
Its been 30 years since the largest nuclear disaster
in historyenough time for the radioactive dust to
settle and a edgling tourism industry to emerge.
Take photos beside the ill-fated reactors concrete
sarcophagus, meet locals who never left, and try
not to worry about exposure, estimated at four
to six microsieverts (roughly the equivalent of a
dental X-ray). Youll be issued a Geiger counter just
in case, which is comforting. chernobylwel.com
C h a s e S t o r m s i n To r n a d o A l l e y
Led by a seasoned veteran of storm-chasing, the
holder of the Guinness World Record for the most
tornadoes ever witnessed (more than 650!), Silver
Lining Tours offers participants a positively
breezy proximity to supercells, funnel clouds, and
pummeling hailstorms. Feel the wind, smell the
tornado, and see debris ying around, encourages
its website. Or maybe just catch a rerun of Twister
on TBS. silverliningtours.com

No. 052
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Pioneering since 1906.
For the pioneer in you.
Inspired by an era of technical awakening,
the Montblanc 4810 Chronograph
Automatic embodies absolute precision
with its self-winding Calibre MB 25.07.

Discover the full story at

montblanc.com/pioneering.
Crafted for New Heights.
The Code
T R AV E L

The Peaks of
PERFECTION Understated elegance and world-class skiing have long been the
hallmarks of Italys Cortina dAmpezzothe Alpine alternative to Europes
overcrowded, overhyped ski resorts By Jen Murphy

BEWARE OF AVALANCHES , Bedaz-

zled Helmets, and Metallic Jimmy
Choo Moon Boots. Maybe you wont
encounter this warning sign at trendy
ski resorts such as Courchevel in the
French Alps and St. Moritz in Switzer-
land, but that doesnt mean these dan-
gers arent lurking. With celebrities,
royalty, and Russian billionaires clog-
ging some of Europes most pristine
slopesresulting in lift lines overrun
by stick-wielding sele poseurs and
abominably dressed snow mena
long weekend in Lech, Austria, can
start to feel more like a bad episode of
The Real Housewives of Vorarlberg.

No. 054
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 Local suckling
pig, romaine
lettuce, smoked
ricotta cheese,
and juniper fog
at St. Hubertus.

HOW TO DO
THE
DOLOMITES
Four experiences you can have
only in the Italian Alps

ABOVE: The view from the Pomedes chairlift, which Ski the Sella Ronda
shuttles skiers to Cortina dAmpezzos Tofana ski area The Sella Ronda circumnavigates the flat-topped
and to elevations above 7,500 feet. RIGHT: Cortinas Sella Massif Ridge, creating a merry-go-round of
annual Christmas market. lifts and downhill runs suitable for intermediate
skiers. Start the 25-mile circuit by 10:00 A.M .
and make a lunch reservation at Rifugio Emilio
Comici in Val Gardena. (Youll smell the garlic
Thats why the preferred destination of glitz- as you reach the top of the Comici lift.)
averse skiers has long been Cortina dAmpezzo, alpineadventures.net; rifugiocomici.com
the timeless town in northern Italy once favored
by Ernest Hemingway and Frank Sinatra, and fre- Ta k e t h e G r e a t - W a r S k i To u r
quented today by George Clooney. Geographically, Often referred to as an open-air history museum,
not much separates the mountain range from its this 50-mile circuit winds around Col di Lana,
better-known Alpine neighbors; technically, the Dolomites are the Alps. Psychographi- the epicenter of the battles between Italian
cally, however, the ranges 18 limestone peaks are a world awaya winter paradise troops and German and Austrian forces
operating improbably on island time. during World War I. Between ski runs, take in
bunkers, trenches, and artillery emplacements.
Cortina hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics and boasts one of the ranges steepest
dolomitemountains.com
slopesthe vertigo-inducing 64-percent-gradient Forcella Stauniesbut you wont
nd any rst-to-last-chair bravado here. Many Italians dont even set foot on the slopes
Eat at Restaurant St. Hubertus
until 11:30 A.M., and even then its generally for a wine-fueled lunch at one of 48 rifugios,
Named for the patron saint of hunters, St. Huber-
high-elevation lodges that serve remarkably delicious food, considering their remote
tus sets the stage for chef Norbert Niederkoflers
setting. (And menus feature as much spaetzle as spaghetti, thanks to Italys acquisition transformation of simple mountain ingredients
of the region from Austria in 1918.) into elevated dishes, such as beetroot gnocchi
For locals, a perfect bluebird day entails sitting on the terrace of the Michelin-starred with beer soil and daikon cream. rosalpina.it
El Camineto and lling up on casunziei, the regions beet-lled ravioli, while taking in
the view below. Whats left for the rest of us: quiet, uncrowded pistes throughout Cor- To b o g g a n b y M o o n l i g h t
tinas three main ski areas. In fact, crowds seem to form only at the local hockey games, If Clark Griswold taught us anything, its that
played on the Olympic ice rink where Brigitte Bardot once took skating lessons, and sledding is not a pastime solely for children.
along Corso Italia, Cortinas pedestrian-only cobbled main street, which turns into a Tackle five unique runssome as long as four
lively scene every day around 4:00 P.M. But rather than clubs touting celebrity DJs or milesafter a meal at Chalet Alpenrose or
Chalet Resciesa. A snowmobile gets you to
bars full of blokes dancing on tables to oompah music, nightlife centers on restaurants
dinner; a shot of schnapps gets you back down.
such as Agaa four-table hot spot run by Alessandra Del Favero and Noma alum Oliver chaletalpenrose.it; resciesa.com
Piras, who serve foraging-based tasting menusand intimate old-school wine bars
such as Enoteca Cortina.

No. 055
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The Code
T R AV E L

SLOPE STYLE

Cortinas elevation at the towns

Ski helmet ($230) and center (equivalent to 4,016 feet);
the Alta Badia ski area.

Turtleneck
($2,425) by Herms;
hermes.com.

by Moncler;
moncler.com.
Even if your agenda is more aprs than ski, its worth waking up early to take
on Mount Lagazuois legendary Hidden Valley. Stretching nearly ve miles, the val-
leys storied ski run, the Armentarola, is considered one of the worlds most beauti-
ful, and the relatively relaxed terrain means you can actually look up and enjoy the
scenery without fearing for your life. But be warned: Accessing the Dolomites best
slopes does require some maneuvering. Youll have to take a 25-minute bus ride to
the neighboring Lagazuoi lift, but from there, youre whisked to 9,300 feet within
three minutes. Before you descend, wander over to the adjacent Rifugio Lagazuoi
to snap a photo on its terrace, which offers a 360 degree panorama of peaks. And
Ski gloves ($180) just this once, take a guilt-free sele in front of the valleys frozen waterfalls.
by Hestra;
Eventually, the run deposits you into a at river valley above the hamlet of
hestragloves.com.
Armentarola, on the outskirts of the Alta Badia ski area. At any other resort
in the world, youd have to traverse the nal mile, but Cortina offers a uniquely
primitive take on the classic T-bar: the horse tow. Grab the thick rope attached
to a sleigh, pulled by an honest-to-god equine, and white-knuckle it with up to
50 of your fellow skiers. (Try not to be the guy who catches an edge and topples
Sunglasses ($600)
everyone like bowling pins.)

Parka ($6,295) by Bally;

bally.com.

No. 056
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
A unique luxury resort & casino / 877 552 7778
The Code
DRINKING

Magnum
Force
ALDO SOHM BRINGS AN
ARSENAL OF KNOWLEDGE
AND A REFRESHINGLY
MODERN SENSIBILITYTO HIS
ROLE AS LE BERNARDINS
IN-HOUSE WINE GURU
BY MARK BYRNE
Photograph
by Dustin Aksland

I TAKE THE JACKET OFF WHEN I come in

here, says Aldo Sohm, sitting in the glowing
dining room of the midtown Manhattan wine
bar that bears his name. Just west of here, at
Le Bernardinthe upscale seafood-heavy
French restaurant, widely considered one
of the worlds best, where Sohm also serves
as wine directorentering the dining room
without the proper attire might result in a few
raised eyebrows and a stern GTFO from chef
Eric Ripert. But the 50 or so feet of concrete
that separates Sohms places of business al-
lows just enough distance for a Clark Kent
style personality change: jacket off, mood
lighterbut palate still switched on.
Sohm remembers the day his palate rst
got switched on, in 1990, in the Tyrolean
Alps of his native Austria. He wasnt always
a wine drinker; as a teenager, he favored Ba-
cardi and Coke. But one day, his father took a
19-year-old Aldo for a drive across the border
into the Alto Adige region of Italy to purchase
a bottle of wine. An 83 Darmagi, produced
by Angelo Gaja, says Sohm, now 45. That
drive changed the course of his life.
Seeing his fabric-salesman father shell out
for a bottle of ne wine piqued his curiosity;
Sohm, popping bottles
he wanted to know more, to understand the
outside a wineshop depth of what made that bottleany bottle
in midtown Manhattan. special. So Sohm began reading up. He never

No. 058
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 RIMOWA ELECTRONIC TAG
THE FIRST DIGITAL CHECK-IN SOLUTION
FOR YOUR LUGGAGE.

The future of convenient traveling: RIMOWA Electronic Tag. Check in your luggage with your smartphone
wherever you are and drop it off within seconds. Find out more at: www.rimowa-electronictag.com

RIMOWA Stores in North America:

Beverly Hills, Boston, Dallas (opening Fall 2016), Guam, Honolulu, Las Vegas, Miami,
New York, Orange County, San Diego (opening Fall 2016), San Francisco, Toronto
The Code
DRINKING
stopped. He went to tourism school in Austria
and studied Italian in Florence. In 2002, while
working at Robinson Select Alpenknig in
Austria, he was named best sommelier in the
country (a title he would win three subse-
quent times). In 2004, he moved to New York
and landed at chef Kurt Gutenbrunners Wall-
s and Blaue Gans, then at the Neue Galeries
Vienna-inspired Caf Sabarsky. But it wasnt
until 2007, when he was recruited by Chef
Ripert as wine director of Le Bernardin, that
his passion for wine intersected with an even
nobler purpose: hospitality. Serving people
is one of the purest forms of doing something
good, he explains. You take care of someone.
Life is fair. If you treat other people well, at one
point it will come back to you.
Sohm is a hand-shaker and a table-reader
as much as he is a glass-noser. Hes procient
in the fine art of making people comfort-
ableno small feat when theyre about to
drop four gures on a dinner bill, and exceed-
ingly more difficult when youre speaking the
sometimes foreign language of wine.
As a sommelier, you have a 10- to 20-sec-
ond window to read the client, explains
Sohm. What does he want? The sommelier
is working against ignorance and acciden-
tal misdirection. Sometimes people tell you
they want fruity wine, he says, shaking
Serving people is one of
the purest forms of
doing something good.
Yo u t a k e c a r e o f
s o m e o n e . L i f e i s f a i r.
If you treat other people
well, at one point it
will come back to you.
his head. But fruity is a very mushy term.
Sohm estimates price points when diners
arent condent enough to clarify; he looks
for hints as to what kind of experience they
have with different varieties, complex a-
vors, and ancient vintages, if any; most of all,
he searches for a way to relate. Sometimes
you have people who saved money for a year
just to afford this dinner, says Sohm. I love
working with those people.
While Le Bernardin gives him his fill of
once-in-a-lifetime food tourists and anniver-
sary celebrators, Aldo Sohm Wine Bar offers
something much more elusive: the opportu-
nity to provide instant, uncompromised com-
fort. Look, the idea of the wine bar is youre
coming into my living room, says Sohm. High
tables and stools circle a giant couch in the
center of the room; a bar at the back features
seating on both sides. The lunchtime crowd
draws from the nearby office buildings, but
there are no hushed tones here. Sohm wants
people to chill, talk, laugh. Now in shirtsleeves,
he takes the opportunity to do the same.
We have an interesting situation here, be-
cause we often get referenced with Le Ber-
nardin, says Sohm. But this is a wine bar,
right? I told my staff, Sometimes people see
sommeliers as being arrogant. Be relaxed,
be easy, make people feel good. Sohm
grins, shrugs, considers the room, his cho-
sen profession, the industry at large. Thats
the only trick we have.

W H AT A S O M M E L I E R D R I N K S AT H O M E

Laherte Frres
Champagne Grand
Brut Ultradition
($39)
Small and biodynamical,
its a richer style of Cham-
pagne with lots of freshness.
Goisot 2013
Bourgogne Ctes
d A u x e r r e G u e u l e s
de Loup ($26)
If this winemaker had
holdings in Chablis, the wines
would cost double! Very focused
and mineral-driven wine.
Peter Lauer 2015 Clos Puy Arnaud 2011 Vietti 2013 Langhe
S a a r Ay l e r Ku p p F a s s 6 Ctes de Bordeaux Perbacco Nebbiolo
Senior Riesling ($29) Castillon ($24) ($24)
Florian Lauer is in a league of [The vineyard is] seven miles The perfect everyday
his own these days. The east of St.-milion and wine from declassified
wine has a touch of fruitiness, on the same limestone plateau. Barolo grapes.
but its so inviting to sip. This wine is a true bargain.

No. 060
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 belvest.com

Made in Italy
The Code
AUTO
CAR CHOICE BEING A TRIBAL THING, driving
Hauling a pickup casts you as one of a few likely types:
proud coal-rolling redneck, professional con-
tractor, SoCal surf bro, or Man with a Boat.
Class But theres a new guy embracing the Tao
of truck: Fashion-savvy, white-collar, and
surprisingly citified men are ditching their
sleek sports cars and stately sedans for
headstone-sized grilles and old-school leaf
ONCE THE VEHICLES OF
springseven in a claustrophobic automo-
BLUE-COLLAR GUYS AND tive no-mans-land like New York City. (While
BACKWOODS ADVENTURERS, a food or fashion trends appearance in New
PICKUPS NOW HAVE TRACTION York signies its debut, an automotive trends
AMONG LUXURY-MINDED emergence here means its already in prog-
CITY FOLK. LOGGERS ress elsewhere, the most distinguishing fea-
ture of the citys car culture being its absence.)
AND LAGERFELDS WELCOME.
For the last 20 years, Ive owned only
BY JOSH CONDON sports cars, says Michael Prichinello, co-
No. 062
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
2017 Ford
F-150 Raptor
owner of Classic Car Club Manhattan, which
makes available to members a rotating roster
of achingly beautiful vintage and modern su-
percars. Last year, Prichinello jettisoned his
1974 Euro-spec Porsche 911 Carrera RS in fa-
vor of a black-on-black 2016 Chevy Silverado.
He hasnt looked back.
Its one of my two favorite possessions, he
says. My dog and my truck. Every day I get
out of Lamborghinis and Ferraris, and at the
end of the day I say, Okay, wheres my truck?
Stephen Elmer Caison, a real estate bro-
ker for the Corcoran Group, chose his high-
performance 2010 Ford Raptor in large part
because it matched his personal style. Cai-
son is a self-described ashy guy and a
member of the Deth Killers motorcycle club.
Hes the type of person who buys the vintage
Timberlands made in Tennessee and who
rattles off his preferred denim by brand, t,
rinse, and selvage weight, in that order. THREE FOR THE ROAD
I found the Ford interior a lot cleaner, Cai-
Tough yet renedthe way all pickups (and their owners) should be
son says. Just black, square, not a lot of curves
or light colors. The knobs and switchgear are

design; it looks like my old Crown hi-.

S TA R T I N G
PRICE: $30,375

MANLIEST
ENGINE: 3.5-liter V-6

BRAGGING Sprints to 60 mph faster

RIGHTS: than a Lexus RC200t F Sport.

LUXE In-bed audio system with an

UPGRADE: output of up to 540 watts.

lex Submariner, a truck always looks better

with a bit of life beaten into it.
Plus, the American pickup market is a 2017 Chev y Silverado 1500
particular kind of high-stakes blood sport.
Full-sized models from Chevy and Dodge S TA R T I N G
PRICE: $35,935
are endlessly pursuing the Ford F-Series,
the countrys best-selling vehicle, so manu- MANLIEST
ENGINE: 6.2-liter V-8
facturers are constantly battling for per-
formance, renement, and value bragging BRAGGING More horsepower than
RIGHTS: a Ferrari 360 Modena.
rights. That means basically every modern
pickup is both affordable and bulletproof, Leather-covered
LUXE steering wheel with a
UPGRADE: heating element.

I d r i v e a B e n t l e y, b u t
my Silverado is more
luxurious. Everything $33,730

i n s i d e i s r e a l l e a t h e r,
6.7-liter diesel V-8
the seats are air-
925 lb-ft of torque enables it
conditioned and heated, to tow nine Smart cars.

I have WiFi, and road

noise is nil because the
c a b i n i s s o s o u n d p r o o f.
Michael Prichinello
and because theyre work vehicles rst and
foremost, theyre also full of useful features,
such as 115-volt electrical outlets, an Ikeas
worth of integrated storage, and top-of-the-
line infotainment systems.
At a time when speed is cheap and Hyundai
sedans offer reclining rear seats, a good pick-
up truck has become a luxury proposition of
sorts. (The cowboy Cadillac trend traffics
in oversized, overchromed, and overoptioned
six-figure monstrosities that give wealthy
ranchers a way to peacock, but the less said
about those, the better.) Many modern pick-
ups, such as the Silverado and the Dodge
Ram, offer smooth-riding air suspension and
a seamless eight-speed transmission, and
pretty much all of them can be upgraded with
the sort of niceties you would expect only of
an imported Autobahn annihilator.
I drive a Bentley, Prichinello says, but
my Silverado is more luxurious. Everything
inside is real leather, the seats are air-condi-
Front massage seats.
tioned and heated, I have WiFi, and road noise
is nil because the cabin is so soundproof.
Or look at it this way: For an extra $10,000,
you could equip your new Bentley Mulsanne
with a tiny refrigerator that chills a bottle of
Champagne, or you could toss an entire case
of bubbly, on ice, into the cooler thats hidden
in the bed of a $30,000 Honda Ridgeline. The
trucks luxury comes from its freewheeling
lifestyle, not the other way around. (Just ask
Mr. Ralph Lauren, pickup-truck driver.)
Plusand this is scientic factwomen
love a man in a truck.

No. 063
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 Sirpa Air - Rafale - Dassault Aviation

BR 03 AEROGT CHRONOGRAPH

The BR 03 AeroGT watch is directly inspired by the AeroGT concept car, which was designed according to aeronautic construction principles: a jet plane on wheels. The result is an
ultra-technical and high-performance watch with gears, escapements, screws and cams reminiscent of the sophistication and beauty of a car. The automotive and watchmaking industries
share more than the concern for motors and performance: the longstanding tradition of making chronograph watches for professional track drivers combines the values of time and
precision. It seemed only natural for Bell & Ross to merge motoring and aviation in the creation of the AeroGT concept car and the BR 03 AeroGT watches.
Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
The Code
BESPOKE

Only If It
SUITS
YOU
For years, Savile Row has offered
exactly two choices when it comes
to suits: Take it or leave it, sir.
But times and tastes change. As
Alex Bilmes discovers, the secret
to getting a world-class suit
made is knowing you can, in fact,
order off the menu.

SAVILE ROW: a fog-shrouded, gaslit London thorough-

fare along which liver-spotted English gents of the old
schoolthe really old schoolstagger tipsily from late
lunch to early bed, held aloft by ancient umbrellas and re-
inforced pinstripes and dreams of empire, stopping only
Actor James Mason in 1966,
to get their creases ironed in by tailors who havent seen
drinking a Guinness and wearing sunshine since before the Blitz.
a double-breasted worsted But I exaggerate: Savile Row isnt gaslit anymore.
dinner jacket by Kilgour, French It is, however, still the physical and spiritual home of
and Stanbury, London.
formal mens tailoring, where for centuries the worlds
sharpest-dressed playboys, politicos, and plutocrats have

No. 066
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
come to have their backs straightened, their chests broadened, and
their limbs lengthened. Its where any man with a taste for high living
would wish to one day make the Mens-Wear Hajj, to commission a
suit in the place where bespoke was invented.
But the problem with Savile Row in the 21st century is, quite
frankly, one of perception. Even among men like myselfsomeone
who loves suits and is paid to know about themSavile Row can feel
out of touch: a place where you end up being forced to wear their
style instead of them helping you create your own. I
am a man in want of a new suit, but Im not certain I
want one from here. The last suit I had made on the
Row is a beautiful double-breasted Prince of Wales
check that makes me feel like Im heading out for a
day of light jousting under gloomy medieval skies
rather than attending meetings in air-conditioned
offices and scarng salads at my desk. If I ever wore
itwhich I wontit would be wearing me. And yet
there is something forbidding about telling a man FROM TOP:
The Kilgour showroom at 5 Savile Row
holding a large pair of scissors his business. While
in London; Will Adams, head cutter at
the response is reliably polite, it can also be rmly pa- Kilgour (left), reviews fabric options
trician: There is a house stylehoned but not altered with Alex Bilmes; British hip-hop artist
much over generationsand Sir would be well advised to bow to its names on the Row and Tinie Tempah wears a Kilgour jacket at
better judgment or take his custom elsewhere. also the most progres- London Fashion Week 2016.

So my question is: Can I call on the expertise of a Savile Row tailor
to make me the suit that I actually want rather than the suit that Savile
Row thinks I ought to have? Can I do that most American (and least
British) thing and order off-menu?
House style is not denitive anymore, says Will Adams, head cut-
ter at Kilgour, of No. 5 Savile Row. Kilgour is one of the most storied
sive. You can tell by the
room we are standing in, a spartan space of steel, glass, and gran-
ite, a minimalist box conceived by a modern architecture buff and the
brands creative director, Carlo Brandelli.
Adams is a tall, slender 41-year-old Englishman, and his is a name
to conjure with among Savile Row acionadosa man steeped in

No. 067
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The Code
BESPOKE

Adams takes measurements

of Bilmess outseam, waist,
and shoulders. Typical
Kilgour fittings require 16
distinct measurements and
three fittings following the
initial consultation.

By contemporary standards, the suit I want is

hardly radical, but by the antediluvian standards
The suit I want is of some Savile Row tailors, it might as well be a
space suita blue one-button single-breasted
hardly radical,
cut that I can wear for business and for pleasure.
but by the antediluvian It should be smart enough for a meeting with
my CEO, casual enough for a night on the town,
standards of some tough enough to travel, and comfortable enough
both the traditions of English tailoring and the for days behind a desk.
Savile Row tailors,
changing codes of contemporary mens wear. His What else? I would like the fabric to be English.
rst job was in a fashion boutique in his home- it might as I would prefer the jacket cropped relatively short,
town of Leicester, selling designer labels to clued- in the modern style, with two side vents. Most
up suburban dandies. While in his nal year at the well be a space suit. rebelliously, I want the shoulders soft, in the Ital-
London College of Fashion, he interned at the suit ian style, rather than padded and rolled. I want it
maker Timothy Everest and then after graduation worked briey on half-lined, if lined at all. The trousers should be at-front and tapered
the design team at John Richmond, on the shop oor at the inuential toward the ankle, with side fastenings rather than suspenders. The
Mayfair boutique Browns, and at the rambunctious casual label Duffer notch lapels on my jacket should be slim but not skinny, and I would
of St. George. But Adamss real education came during the six years he like patch pockets, just this once, because Im a magazine journalist,
spent at the ultratraditional Ede & Ravenscroft. not a minister in Winston Churchills Cabinet.

THE NAME S TO KNOW BEYOND THE ROW

You dont have to wander far from Kilgour to get the full monty. Here, four specialty
shops only a stones throw away.

G. J. C l eve r l ey & C o. Emma Willis Crombie D r a k e s

In his 93 years, the late George
Cleverley made shoes for everyone
from Humphrey Bogart to David
Beckham. Today, you can still enjoy
the craftsmanship of his chisel-toed
creations in ready-to-wear or be-
spoke options (a custom pair takes
about six months to produce). 13
Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street
In the 1980s, Emma Willis began
measuring businessmen for shirts
right in the comfort of their office.
She remains the first lady of London
shirtmakers, offering hand-cut,
single-needle-stitched garments
with meticulously matched seams
and mother-of-pearl buttons.
66 Jermyn Street
A good suit isnt worth much if its
hidden by second-rate outerwear.
Crombies reputation spans two
centuries (who else has received both
commendations from Napoleon III
and endorsements from the Beatles?)
and still centers on a signature style,
with dark wool, velvet collar, and
iconic red lining. 48 Conduit Street
Founded in 1977, Drakes first dealt in
silk scarves but later found its foot-
ing as Londons go-to tie shop. Each
tie is handmade and undergoes 18
inspections throughout the process.
That attention to detail has made
Drakes a popular partner; collabo-
rators range from J. Crew to Comme
des Garons. 3 Clifford Street

No. 068
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 A good cutter, according to Adams, is not only technically adept ounces in weight, in what Adams describes as Air Force blue.
You have to really understand how a garment ts, and sometimes (Translation: gray.) My suit will be a three-season suit: comfort-
why its not tting, he saysbut also open to suggestion and col- able at any time other than very hot summer days. Adams doesnt
laboration. He thinks that a cutter should be able to transfer his skills so much as raise an eyebrow at any of my long list of demands, even
to any tailoring house, just as youd follow your agreeing to a one-ply body canvasthe most
dentist if she changed practices or your barber if A cutter should lightweight, least structured option possible
he switched chairs. for the chest. In fact, hes so agreeable that I feel
Of course, in any revolutioneven a small- be able to transfer his compelled to ask him if theres anything about the
scale sartorial revolt such as minethere are ca- process that makes him uncomfortable as a tradi-
skills to any tailoring
sualties as well as gains. Take out the horsehair tionally trained cutter.
and the demet and youre losing something for house, just as youd Not at all, he assures. My job is to advise, not
sure, says Adams of the traditional materials that to dictate. Its your suit. Youre paying for it. I want
give a bespoke English jacket its attering shape follow your dentist you to feel happy in it.
but also its suit-of-armor feel. Youre still getting As it so happens, my own preferences and the
if she changed practices
a pattern cut, but it wont give you that hourglass Kilgour house style set by Carlo Brandelli are
shape. On the other hand, its less formal and or your barber if not far removed; he too favors one-button single-
easier to wear. Not everyone wants to look like a breasted jackets and a slim silhouette, albeit
bankernot even every banker. he switched chairs. with more structure than the suit Ive requested.
And so Adams takes my measurements and So, sure, there are still rheumy-eyed old buffers
we leaf through books of fabrics: frescos, low-maintenance and who would choke on their postprandial cigars at the mere idea of
businesslike; mohairs so robust you could sleep on a park bench in a Savile Row suit lacking shoulder pads and wide lapels, but the
them and still look shiny and new in the morning; and annels, softer sharp-dressed tailors at Kilgour wont join them in their scorn.
and less formal. Flannel, says Adams, makes a man look like hes Theres life in the old Row yet.
wearing a suit because he wants to, be-
cause he looks good in it, rather than be-
cause he has to, to conform.
That sounds about right to me, so I se-
lect a super-120s worsted annel, nine
PHOTOGRAPHS OF ADAMS AND BILMES BY ANDREW WOFFINDEN

A B OV E: Daniel Craig wears a navy

Kilgour suit in Layer Cake (2004). RIGHT:
Adams and Bilmes, all smiles after the
painless process.
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The Code
GROOMING

Frozen
Assets
THINK YOU HAVE YOUR
GROOMING ROUTINE
DOWN COLD? IT MIGHT BE
TIME FOR A WINTER
OVERHAUL, COURTESY OF
SOME GUYS WHO ARE USED TO
BRAVING THE ELEMENTS.
BY JON ROTH

HOT TODDIES AND HOLIDAY parties

aside, the winter months are one long,
gray drag. Youre engulfed in layers,
trudging through snow, and popping
vitamin D supplements like candy.
And then theres the toll that the chill
takes on your skin. Cold, dry air saps
the moisture right out of your face,
and the brutal combination of wind
and snow-refracted light can mean
double the burn. Luckily, man has
made signicant headway battling the
elementsparticularly the men on
the following page. Read on for some
expert advice on defending yourself
against the deep freeze.

No. 072
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 Alex Hibbert
3 0, p o l a r ex p l o r e r, a u t h o r, a n d p h o t o g r a p h e r

Coldest place youve ever been: Nunavut, Canada. At 54 degrees, if you make a
mistake, everything can go downhill very quickly.
Grooming essential: Neutrogena Norwegian Formula hand cream.
Beware of: Vaseline. It magnies the sunlight. It might make you feel more comfort-
able, but it can actually cause you to burn
a lot worse.
Secret weapon: It sounds counterintuitive,
but I cut all my hair off. If youre not
washing it, it turns into a nest. It wont
insulate you at all. Just buzz it and wear a
hat; youll feel fresher and cleaner. Plus,
its considerateno one likes looking at
someone elses hat hair.

Jimmy Chin
4 2 , p r o fe s s i o n a l p h o t o g r a p h e r,
c l i m b e r, a n d m o u n t a i n e e r

Coldest place youve ever been: Either

at the bus stop in Mankato, Minnesota, in
35 degree windchill as a kid or on the sum-
mit ridge of Everest during a postmonsoon
Gus Kenworthy climb and ski descent.
24, freestyle skier and silver medalist
at the 2014 Sochi Olympics
Grooming essential: Jack Black Intense
Therapy lip balm SPF 25. You can use it on your
Coldest place youve ever been: We did a Big Air face, nose, and even cracked ngertips in a pinch.
competition at Fenway Park earlier this year, and it Beware of: Worn-out extremities. Take the time
was the coldest it had been in a decade. to wash and lotion your hands and feet after a long
Grooming essential: Burts Bees lip balm. day of hiking. Its an extra task, but it will keep
Beware of: The sun. People have this notion that just them healthy.
because its winter you dont need sunscreen. Secret weapon: Staying hydrated and well fed is
Secret weapon: A tight face mask can leave you with critical to keeping your core warm, which in turn
sore cheeks. Beard oil helps with softness. generates heat that keeps your extremities warm.

COLD COMFORT
Dont let Old Man Winter leave you looking like an old man

Nivea Moisture LAB Series Age C. O. B i g e l ow Zirh Platinum Jack Black To m F o r d Ve r t

Essential Rescue+ Chapped Hands Drenched Industrial DEncens Eau
Lip Care Densifying Cleanser Ultra Hydrating Strength Hand de Parfum
Conditioner Moisturizer Healer
Youre not the only Liquid hand soap Okay, a fragrance isnt
one made uncomfort- Adds extra shine and just doesnt cut it Were going to build Softens and protects going to shield you
able by your dry, moisture so that when the mercury a wall . . . between like any good cream from the chill, but notes
scaly lips. Shea butter whatevers hiding drops. Zap the dirt your face and harsh, should, without the of smoky frankincense
repairs the damage, under that hat without dooming moisture-leaching ele- unappealing side effect and bracing pine
while vitamin looks less like a yourself to dry, ments. (What did you of awkward, greasy might make you feel
B5 hydrates. ($3) Brillo pad. ($29) cracked digits. ($12) think we meant?) ($125) handshakes. ($15) a bit warmer. ($225)

No. 073
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
TECH
When your camera
Shoot Like You phone becomes a tool
Mean It for everything from
1 vacation shots to
brunch Instagrams, all

Hardware
of your photos start to
have a middling same-
ness. The cure? Work

Update
a new camera into the
mix. Nothing captures
a vast spacethe
Sistine Chapel or the
Serengetilike the 360
degree images that you
see on Google Maps,
and the Samsung Gear
360 [1] ($350; sam-
sung.com) does it in a
snap. The Hasselblad
X1D [2] ($8,995, body
only; hasselblad.com)
takes mind-blowingly
detailed photos that
used to require a cam-

T h e b a l l s a p p
rates your arm
from beginnerto
high school
t o p r o b a s e d
on your throwing
prowess.
 2
3

Gleaming the Cube

Going for a small wire-
less speaker doesnt
always mean sacricing
oomph and bass for the
convenience of size.
British audio company
Naim learned a lot about
making big noise in
relatively tiny packages
by developing sound
Who is this systems for Bentley
c a m e r a f o r ? I f y o u r e cars, and that technol-
adept at using
ogy nds its way into
a DSLR and have always
fantasized about
its Mu-so Qb ($1,000;
owning a naimaudio.com), which
Hasselblad, this is tricks you into thinking
the one to get. its ve times bigger than
it is. You can connect to
this eight-inch cube via
Bluetooth or AirPlay,
and Spotify is built-in.
Another cool trick: In
the right light, the acryl-
ic base makes the cube
seem like its oating.

No. 075
The Code
C OAT S

Fo r a n
OFFICER
and a
TA K E A C U E F R O M
GENTLEMAN Prince Charles,
circa 1982

Dunhills double-breasted
greatcoat for fall closely
resembles the classic British
Warm, the donkey-colored
melton worn by army officers
on freezing parade grounds
for most of the 20th century.
Although it has much of the
meltons martial swagger,
it is as light and easy to wear
as a bathrobe, thanks to
the technology and crafts-
manship behind its
unlined double-faced
cashmere weave.

Coat ($4,250) by

Go
Dunhill; dunhill.
com. Dog leash
($580) by Valextra;
valextra.com. Bag
by Dover Street
Market; doverstreet-
market.com.

LONG
Any coat worth its stitching can protect you from the worst of
winter, but the right topcoat elevates an outteven a
sweater and jeansand announces to the world that you dress
for something more important than the weather

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHILIP FRIEDMAN

No. 076
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
C OAT S

B LU E I S
t h e Wa r m e s t
COLOR
Bottega Venetas summery
sea blue is not an obvious
choice for chillier months.
But why not? As we in-
creasingly think of our
clothes as distinct pieces
rather than as part of a
conventional, harmonious
wholethe possibility for
self-expression in pattern,
color, or design takes us
somewhere entirely new.

Coat (price upon request)

and sunglasses ($525)
by Bottega Veneta;
bottegaveneta.com. iPad
mini 4 (starting from $399)
and headphones ($29) by
Apple; apple.com.

TA K E A C U E F R O M
Idris Elba

No. 078
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 featuring BRET EASTON ELLIS
shop at santonishoes.com

NEW YORK - 762 Madison Avenue - Ph. +1 646 762 3554

The Code
C OAT S

A Cut
ABOVE
A good coat will for-
malize any look, but it
doesnt have to be cut
like a suit jacket. This
dove-gray Herms
overcoat points to a
roomier trend in mens
fashion, allowing for
comfort and movement
without sacricing el-
egance. Patch pockets
give it a casual twist,
and its big collar de-
mands to be popped
against the wind.

Coat ($7,050) by
Herms; hermes.
com. Vintage fabric
(worn as scarf,
$195) from Mate

TA K E A C U E F R O M
Jason Statham

No. 080
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 AND THE WINNER IS...
RATED #1 WORLDS BEST GIN*

*Cigar & Spirits Magazine

March 2016 Issue

*October 2014 Issue

*Cigar & Spirits Magazine, October 2014 & March 2016

Discover More At NOLETSGin.com
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
NOLETS Silver 47.6% Alc./Vol. (95.2 Proof)
2016 Imported by NOLETS US Distribution, Aliso Viejo, CA.
The Code T E N -Y E A R
COLLECTIVE WISDOM

What Ive A N N I V E RSA RY

E D I T I O N

LEARNED
A dozen of our favorite tastemakers share their greatest lessons from the
past decade (okay, plus or minus a few years)

RICK Eunice Lee

OWENS De signe r, Unis
D e s i g n e r, R i c k O we n s

E V E N I F E V E RY T H I N G in my work ended
tomorrow, itd still be a triumph. Not to jinx it, but its
like a marriage that worked. that our brand feels like a coveted secret.
F R E N C H C H E F S C R E AT E these exquisite, perfect
pastries, and Italian chefs kind of throw everything into
a pot and it comes out great, too. There are different
ways to get stuff done. Im probably more in the Italian
pot. I wouldnt say the process is messy, but instinctive.
W H AT YO U D O N T D O is as important as what
you do. Saying no is my default.
I G O TO T H E GY M every day, have lunch, take a nap,
and then start the day all over again at 4:00 P.M. My nap Mark Lee
is an extravagance, but Ive realized that I need it.
CEO, Barneys New York BRUNELLO
I need to retreat once a day and empty myself out. CUCINELLI
That is my interpretation of luxurybeing able to The best advice D e s i g n e r, B r u n e l l o C u c i n e l l i

take naps whenever the fuck I want to. I received Never believe your
V U L N E R A B I L I T Y in relationships is important.
Vulnerability in work is not a good idea.
is something parents when they say
W H E N E V E R I R E A D interviews Ive done, I always [Tom Ford that when they were
feel like I come off as a know-it-all, but Im so non-
opinionated. I just know exactly what I want. Im not
International your age, they were
better or smarter than
saying thats what everybody else wants. Everything chairman] you. Dont believe it.
that I do is just a proposal.
Domenico De
Sole told me:
The most impor- FRANK
Virgil Abloh MUYTJENS
D e s i g n e r, O f f-W h i t e tant thing was to He ad of m ens
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY J O E M c K E N D RY

Im pretty much still the same as the decide things d e s i g n , J. C rew

17-year-old version of myself. I deejay

an awful lot and stay in touch with
every day and Im a big fan of Instagram. Right
now I love the stylist Lars-Fredrik
skateboarding culture. Its important.
Mistakes? I dont regret anything.
keep the compa- Svedberg. His posts have this
patina to them.
My brain doesnt work like that. ny moving. Act. Stay curious, ask questions, and be
open to learn something new every
Dont delay. day. Thats our job.

No. 082
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
CALIBER RM 60-01 REGATTA
The Code
COLLECTIVE WISDOM
TODD
SNYDER
D e s i g n e r,
To d d Snyder
Being nice is so important. Youd
be surprised how many people fuck
that up. It blows me away. Nobody
wants to work with a jerk.
I always try to hire people smarter
than me. Nobody can do everything.
I can drive the ship, but I need people
to put wind in the sails.
My biggest tip is to sleep if you can.
I think what keeps me going is that Ill
get eight or nine hours every night.
BRUCE
PASK
Mens fashion director,
B e rg d o r f G oodman
I really do believe that
chance does favor the
prepared mind. Things
will happen as they
do, but its also within
your control to work
hard and anticipate
situations and
foresee complications.
Be prepared.
Things become clearer
in the rearview
mirror. I worked for
a magazine that closed,
but had that not
happened, I wouldnt
have had the opportu-
nity to work at
T magazine.
Nick Wooster
Style consultant
Ive made plenty of fashion mistakes.
I always look back and think, Oh, my
Massimo God, what was I thinking? But if it
makes me laugh, then its fine.
Piombo
D esigner, Ma ssimo Piombo
The best piece of advice Ive ever been
given is Take every meeting.
Nature means
everything to me. MICHAEL
I was born in BASTIAN
Varazze, a small D e s i g n e r, M i c h a e l B a s t i a n
village on the S O M E T I M E S YO U R B I G G E ST failure on a
sea near Genoa. retail level is your biggest success on a personal
level. At Gant, I did a Brady Bunch Goes to
I have a house Hawaii collection, and it bombed. Now thats the
there now, and one people will tell me they remember the most. Ill
see pieces on eBay for two times what they cost
the best part brand-new. Im still proud of it.
of my day is I T E L L YO U N G P EO P L E who want to get a new
job to just go outmake friends and talk to people.
the one-hour We hire so many people based on recommendations.
drive to and back I T H I N K YO U R 2 0 S are about establishing your
friend group. Your 30s are for your relationship. Your
from Milan, 40s should be about your career. Hopefully, by your
when I get to see 50s, its locked down. If you do it out of order, youll
probably have missed out on something.
the water and I F YO UR E C R E AT I V E , structure is tough.
the sun. Its good I tried to be disciplined when I rst started the label
(Im going to design from 9 to 11!) and would get
not just for my so frustrated, because you cant force an idea.
health but for YO U G OT TA K E E P your head down and do the
work. Ralph Laurens been in the business for ages
my mind. and look at him. Thats who you aspire to.
Guy Trebay
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY J O E M c K E N D RY
Mens-we ar critic, The New York Times
People really dont read. Im really surprised by how many people I work with
and encounter who dont read. Hardly anything is more rewarding to me than a
book. Pick up The Makioka Sisters by Junichir Tanizaki if you have a chance.
I feel grateful for stuff. Its been on my mind more in the past year than at any other
time in my life. So often the people who are complaining about not having much
actually have very much.
No. 084
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
CALIBER RM 055
FINISHING
To u c h

A WAT C H T H AT tarnishes natu-

rally may seem nuts, but this bronze
caseinspired by diving equipment
and alloyed with aluminumis craft-
ed to take on a predetermined patina.
Think of it as managed maturity. The
newest edition still has the chamfered
case, snowake hands, and big wind-
ing crown that have made the Black
Bay an industry favorite since Tudors
2012 reemergence in the U. S. market.

Black Bay Bronze watch ($3,975) by

Tudor; tudorwatch.com. Masai necklace
($295) and brass necklace ($255) by
Giles & Brother; gilesandbrother.com.
 The Code
C O M P L I CAT I O N S

Fresh
FAC E S
The jargon-lled world of watches can be tricky to navigate
(Tourbillon! Escapement!), but really, your timepiece
has two essential requirements: keeping precise time and
looking damn good while doing it. The restfrom
bling to techy features to heirloom potentialis personal
preference. Here, our picks for the years standouts.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFFREY WESTBROOK

No. 087
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
C O M P L I CAT I O N S

UNIFORM
Appeal

BY NOW WE R E FAMILIAR
with watches reminiscent of air-
craft instrument panels, but were
less accustomed to seeing a watch
that calls to mind the navy. This
fall, the aviation-inspired Bell &
Ross steals a tip from the ash of
blue and gold on classic French
navy uniforms. The result? The
43mm Aronavale, which features
a handsome blue sunray dial
counterbalanced by a sporty blue
anodized-aluminum bezel.

Aronavale chronograph ($4,500) by

Bell & Ross; bellross.com.

No. 088
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
C O M P L I CAT I O N S

WORLD Class

T H E GRAND MONT B LANC OR B IS T E R R ARU M
(resembling a globe youd nd in a library lled with rst
editions) houses a 4810 complication, which in simple
terms means the watch can keep time in 24 different zones
simultaneously. Adjust it via a single pusher that links
the hour hand, cities, a day/night indicator, and time
zonesall of which are displayed on a dial that doubles as a
piece of wearable art.
4810 Orbis Terrarum watch ($5,900) and Martele fountain pen
($1,565) by Montblanc; montblanc.com. Journal ($280) by
Smythson; smythson.com.

No. 090
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
N E W Y O R K 6 2 5 M A D I S O N A V E N U E / B E V E R LY H I L L S 2 5 0 N O R T H R O D E O D R I V E
M I A M I AV E N T U R A M A L L / AT L A N TA - O P E N I N G S O O N
The Code
C O M P L I CAT I O N S

I N S I D E Jo b

CA RRE RA FA N S , you may be surprised by what youre

looking at. A hypermodern fusion of steel and ceramic,
this is the most contemporary creation yet from the 53-
year-old family of timepieces. The skeletonized dial show-
cases TAG Heuers 01 movement, the brands expansion
into in-house production. When youve got it, aunt it.

Carrera Heuer-01 ($6,700) by TAG Heuer; tagheuer.com.

Sunglasses ($1,100) and carbon-fiber pen ($260) by Porsche
Design; porsche-design.com. Wallet ($310) by Montblanc;
montblanc.com. Chest ($295) by Restoration Hardware;
rh.com. Sculpture ($750) by Aerin; aerin.com. California T key
(car starts at $198,973) by Ferrari; ferrari.com. McLaren P1
slot car ($66) by Scalextric; brownieshobbies.com.

No. 092
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
The Code
C O M P L I CAT I O N S

DA R K V i c t o r y

D ES P I T E I T S RE P U TAT I O N F O R N O T messing with

a good thing (the companys been content to leave the
40mm Cosmograph Daytona untouched for the better part
of 15 years, after all), Rolex doesnt always just stick to the
script. As it did with lines such as the Yacht-Master and
the GMT-Master, this year Rolex gave the Daytona a black
Cerachrom bezel and a dark, mirrorlike nish. Its the
classic redone with a no-rules, after-hours vibe.

Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona watch ($12,400) by

Rolex; rolex.com. Bracelet ($450) by Tateossian; tateossian.
com. Fragrance ($225) by Tom Ford; tomford.com. Tumbler
(set of two, $460) by Luxury Living; luxurylivinggroup.com.
Bernard Buffet: The Invention of the Modern Mega-Artist, by
Nicholas Foulkes, from Random House.

No. 094
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 20 YEARS OF

CRAFTSMANSHIP
USING THE FINEST INGREDIENTS

DISCOV E R O UR CO L L E C T I O N
O F DI ST I NC T I V E CO LO GNE S

THEARTOFSHAVING.COM
@theartofshaving
The Code
C O M P L I CAT I O N S

S U R FA C E A r e a

I F YOU CA N T go deep, go
wide. The clean, numberless dial
of this celebrated watch is an
exercise in understatement
made yuge. Encasing a Caliber
4400 manual-wind movement, the
Patrimony measures 42mm across
(just a hair shy of two nickels side
by side) yet is only 2.8 mm thick.
Vacheron knows that exaggerating
one feature means youahem
dial the others back.

Patrimony watch ($20,000) by

Vacheron Constantin; vacheron-
constantin.com. Sunglasses ($405)
by Oliver Peoples; 212-585-3433.
Cuff links ($2,650) by Bulgari; bul-
gari.com. Wallet ($340) by Salvatore
Ferragamo; 866-337-7242.

No. 096
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Portfolio 1

Great style isnt always about buying

into the newest trends. Sometimes
what looks best is what youve lived
withand inthe longest. Here,
eight well-dressed men share their
favorite heirloom items and the
stories behind them.

What,
This O U I G I T H EO D O R E , 4 0,
f o u n d e r, t h e B r o o k l y n C i r c u s
I bought this varsity shawl-collar sweater

Old
from Bobby Garnett at Bobby from Boston. He
unfortunately passed away earlier this year.
This is a rare sweater: from the 1950s, 100 per-
cent wool, made in the U. S. A. These sweaters
might last 100 years if you take care of them.

Vintage sweater and ring, Theodores own.

Shirt ($125) by Polo Ralph Lauren; ralphlauren.
com. Trousers ($148) by Nautica; nautica.com.
Shoes ($500) by Feit; feitdirect.com. Watch
($7,600) by IWC; iwc.com. Necklace (worn as
bracelet, $7,100) by Cartier; cartier.us.

Thing?
Pho to gra ph s
by A L E X E I H AY
Inter views by
S E A N H OTC H K I S S
 MAX POGLIA,
3 5, f o u n d e r,
Poglia
I got this U. S. Navy
deck jacket at the
Front General Store
in Dumbo, Brooklyn.
Theyre Japanese
guys, great collectors.
I always stop by to
check if they have
anything I havent
seen before. I wear
this one a lot. Its
tough to nd these in
good condition.

Vintage jacket and

necklace, Poglias
own. Shirt ($98)
by Timberland;
timberland.com.
T-shirt ($30) by Perry
Ellis; perryellis.com.
Chinos ($185) by
Frame; tntfashion.ca.
Bracelet ($295)
by John Hardy;
johnhardy.com.

No. 099
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Portfolio 1

MORGAN
C O L L E T T, 3 2 ,
c o f o u n d e r,
Saturdays
N e w Yo r k C i t y
When my grandfa-
ther died in 2013, my
grandmother took us
into his closet and let
us each choose one of
his timepieces. I chose
this Baume & Mer-
cier for Tiffany quartz
watch. It has a brown
crocodile-leather
strap, which makes it
kind of elegant. As I
get older, Im getting
more comfortable with
formality. We just did
a few linen suit sepa-
rates for Saturdays,
and Im excited about
wearing those on a
casual day in the office.

Vintage Baume &

Mercier for Tiffany
& Co. watch,
Colletts own. Sweater
($165) by Saturdays
NYC; saturdaysnyc.
com. Gold bracelet
($2,900) by David
Yurman; davidyur-
man.com. Beaded
bracelet ($125) by
Giles & Brother;
gilesandbrother.com.

No. 100
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 When I was
born, my
grandfather
held me in
his arms,
pointed to
his at-cut
ruby ring,
and said to
my mom,
This is his.
David Seth Moltz

D AV I D S E T H M O LT Z , 3 6 , p e r f u m e r,
D.S. & Durga
I found this duffel coat in the attic of my mothers
house in Massachusetts. It was her fathers. We have
the same body type, my grandfather and I, so Ive been
reupping these great pieces every time I go back home.
Its slim-tting and makes you look put together in
three seconds, which is hard to do sometimes when its
freezing outside and youre wearing a big puffy jacket.

Vintage duffel coat, Moltzs own. Jacket ($350)

by Tommy Hilfiger; tommy.com. Sweatshirt ($275)
and jeans ($220) by Rag & Bone; rag-bone.com.
Boots ($495) by Timberland Boot Company;
timberland.com. Necklace ($255) by Giles & Brother;
gilesandbrother.com.
 SIMON
G O L B Y, 3 6 ,
c o f o u n d e r,
Magasin
I started working for
Brunello Cucinelli in
2002. This coatknit
cashmere herringbone
lined in silkwas one
of his rst pieces of
outerwear. Its actu-
ally a sample; I dont
believe it ever went
into production. I have
three coats from back
in those days, but this
is the one. My friends
call it the dragon skin
because the inside is
so silky and the out-
side is like a sweater.
Its fucking rad.

Vintage Brunello
Cucinelli coat,
Golbys own. Sweater
($165) by Southern
Tide; southerntide.
com. Trousers ($395)
by PTO1; magasin-
thestore.com.

No. 102
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 Portfolio 1

This Fieldmaster leather

biker jacket is my everyday
jacket. Its unique, with the
D pockets, and someone
actually personalized it by
adding the studs.
Max Poglia

Vintage leather jacket, Poglias own.

T-shirt ($28) by Levis; levi.com.
Trousers (price upon request) by
Perry Ellis; perryellis.com. Nautilus
watch ($24,830) by Patek Philippe;
212-218-1240.
 This 1940s Rolex bubble-
back watch was my dads.
His wife bought it for
him for his 60th birthday
at a ea market outside
Florence. He spent a year
and a half sourcing the
original guts from all over
the world. He tried to give it
to me when he retired, but I
said, No, Im not ready for
it yet. When he died, I found
it in his closet and havent
taken it off since.
Simon Golby

Vintage Rolex watch, vintage Ghurka

bag, and bracelets, Golbys own.
Sweater ($165) by Southern Tide;
southerntide.com. Trousers ($395)
by PTO1; magasinthestore.com.
 Portfolio 1

HOOMAN
MAJD,
59, a u t h o r
I bought this Herms
jacket on Madison
Avenue in 1993. It was
a little over $1,000. It
seemed expensive, but
it wasnt particularly
fashionable at the
time: English, country
gentlemans cut, kind
of Savile Row, three-
button roll. I wear it
so much, the edges are
starting to go. The
elbows wore out
I had to put suede
patches on about
seven or eight years
ago. I dont want to
give it up. Sometimes
clothes just make you
feel rightlike some-
one cut it for me.

Vintage Herms
jacket and vintage
Omega watch, Majds
own. Shirt ($495),
trousers ($895), and
pocket square ($175)
by Brunello Cucinelli;
brunellocucinelli.
com. Scarf ($275) by
Ermenegildo Zegna
Couture; zegna.com.

No. 105
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 These John Lobb oxford
shoes are 20 years old. I dont
wear black very often, maybe
10 to 20 times a year, so theyve
held upjust a little polish
and some shoe trees and theyre
good. I buy shoes from
shoemakers instead of designers.
If you take care of a good
pair of shoes, they should
last a lifetime, or close to it.
Hooman Majd

Vintage Levis jeans and vintage

John Lobb shoes, Majds own.
 Portfolio 1

JOSH
P E S KOW I T Z ,
3 7, c o f o u n d e r ,
Magasin
I bought this Stssy
plaid shirt in 1998,
my freshman year of
college. It was a risk
to buy something this
size, because every-
one was wearing their
clothes oversized. But
thats the reason its
stayed with me for
almost 20 years. Well,
that and the colors.
It still feels modern.
Its the shirt that just
hangs around.

Vintage Stssy shirt,

Peskowitzs own.
Double-breasted jacket
($1,750) by Caruso;
carusomenswear.
com. Jeans ($295) by
Levis Vintage
Clothing; magasin-
thestore.com.

No. 107
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 I got this jacket when I was eight
years old. It was huge then. Now its too
small. My mom was a huge Celtics
fan, but my dad is from Chicago, so I
got the best of both worlds during
the Jordan-versus-Bird era.
David Seth Moltz

Vintage jacket, watch,

sunglasses, and necklaces,
Moltzs own. Navy T-shirt
($64) and white T-shirt ($98)
by AG; agjeans.com. Leather
bracelet ($125) by Scarpe
di Bianco; scarpedibianco.
com. Braided bracelet
($125) by George Frost;
georgefrost.com.

GROOMING BY COLLEEN CREIGHTON FOR

KRAMER + KRAMER.
 Portfolio 1

DUNCAN
HANNAH, 63,
artist
I was on Portobello
Road with Anna Sui.
They have a great ar-
ray of tweed jackets
there. I picked out the
perfect one and styled
it for her, and she said,
Its you. Dont even
think about it. Get
it. So I did. That was
about ve years ago.
Youd be hard-pressed
to nd such a good
tweed jacket today,
and if you did, youd
pay a lot for it.

Vintage jacket,
Hannahs own. Shirt
($99), trousers
($350), and tie ($125)
by Polo Ralph Lauren;
ralphlauren.com.

No. 109
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 T H E
Vintage Style
I N FO R M AT I O N
Sure, it would be nice if clothes matured like cheese or winein a cool, dark place left
to age to perfection. But upping your game requires a more proactive approach: a keen eye, dogged
pursuit, and a little bit of luck. Heres how to give yourself a vintage advantage.
The Six Best Secondhand
Stores in the World
The Vintage
Showroom
London
Part shop, part resource
center for fashion design-
ers, the Vintage Showroom
is Londons most painstak-
ingly curated boutique for
vintage nuts. Encompass-
ing tailoring and sports-
wear, military and work
wear, its where youll nd
the most provenanced gar-
ments available to man
some more than half a cen-
tury old. Theyre not all for
sale, however; the compa-
nys archive functions as a
by-appointment resource
for designers research-
ing long-vanished pieces.
14 Earlham Street; 011-44-
207-836-3964; thevintage-
showroom.com
Front General Store
Brooklyn
Hideya Sagawa (formerly
of What Goes Around
Comes Around) and
partners Hiro Yonekawa
and Nishiyama Ikutaka pre-
side over this tucked-away
gem in Dumbo, a favorite of
the mens-wear-trade set for
its rich mix of famous and
unknown, mostly Ameri-
can, work-wear brands. 143
Front Street; 646-573-0123;
frontgeneralstore.com
Bobby from Boston
Boston
Bobby Garnetts cultish
shop suffered a big loss
when Garnett died earli-
er this year, but his daugh-
ter Jessica carries on his
legacy. Bobby was famous
in the fashion industry
among style hounds who
admired his emphasis on
street-inected preppy
runs, from casual collegiate
to high-end tailored piec-
es. 19 Thayer Street; 617-
423-9299; bobby-from-
boston.com
Ceri Vintage
Florence
If youre looking to avoid
the usual tourist shop-
ping streets, Danilo Ceri
is Florences go-to guy treasure trove of far-from-
the one who has things
you cant nd anywhere 50s onward, from ancient
else. In addition to mili-
tary and vintage fashion
from around the world,
Ceri has an interesting
sideline in making one-
off pieces with ancient
dead-stock cloth, which
he hand-signs on the in-
side. 26/R Via dei Serragli;
011-39-335-839-0356
JAntiques
Tokyo
Its best not to shop while
jet-lagged at JAntiques
in the Nakameguro dis-
trict of Tokyo; you might
come home with an ex-
tra suitcase full of authen-
tic Americana. The unas-
suming store in a quietly
chic neighborhood is a
home clothing from the
Levis to 80s and 90s Po-
lo Ralph Lauren. Dont
be surprised if you run in-
to a few mens-wear gi-
No. 110
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
ants quietly rummaging
through the racks. 2-25-13
Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku;
011-81-3- 5704-8188
Eral 55
Milan
Milans posh Corso Como
shopping district is an
unlikely spot for a perfect
storm of vintage sensibili-
ties like Eral 55s. The shop
blends preowned cloth-
ing with short runs of new
dead-stock wool pieces by
owner Ermanno Lazza-
rins own tailors. Reworked
Levis denim mingles with
soft sport coats and vintage
footwear from storied
British shoemakers like like they just came down the
Edward Green and Trick- runway), but they could just
ers. 14 Piazza XXV Aprile;
011-39-02-659-8829;
eral55.com
E N D O R S E M E N T:
T H E V I N TA G E
SHOWROOM
Londons coolest
secondhand store, now
in book form
If you cant make it to London to
scour the goods at the Vintage
Showroom, this book is the next
best thing. Written by TVS found-
ers Douglas Gunn and Roy Luck-
ett, it contains profiles and
photographs of 102 pieces from
the store, painting a rough-and-
tumble portrait of mens wear,
from militaria to motorsports.
See the close-ups of grease
stains on a jungle tank suit, the
anchor buttons on a U.S. Navy
peacoat from World War I, even
the Velcro fastenings of a pull-
over parka designed for the Brit-
ish Antarctic Survey. You might
not be able to get your hands on
the surprisingly modern-feeling
pieces (some of them look
inspire your next style swerve
or eBay purchase. $45; thevin-
tageshowroom.com
 WISH LIST:
W H AT A
EDITOR
WA N T S
N I C K S U L L I VA N
EDITOR
What he wants:
1980s Turnbull & Asser
dress shirts.
Why he wants them:
In the 80s, Turnbull & Asser had
a reputation for insane stripes
sometimes even horizontal
in a combination of colors that
other shirtmakers wouldnt dare.
JOHN KENNEY
MANAGING EDITOR
What he wants:
A Schott NYC Navy peacoat.
Why he wants it:
I dont go in much for technical
wear. The peacoat has kept
generations of midshipmen
warm through midnight watch
it can handle my winter.
M AT T H E W M A R D E N
FAS H I O N D I R E C TO R
What he wants:
A first-edition hardcover copy of
The Stand, by Stephen King.
Why he wants it:
I started collecting first editions
in high school because of my
King obsession. Only used cop-
ies. They have more character.
M I C H A E L ST E FA N OV
MARKET EDITOR
What he wants:
A vintage mid-80s Smiths Hatful
of Hollow T-shirt.
Why he wants it:
You can buy a reprint online, but
theres nothing like the original
to retain the essence of the
time period and the authenticity
of the music.
ALFONSO FERNNDEZ
N AVA S
FA S H I O N A S S I S TA N T
What he wants:
An archival piece from Maison
Martin Margiela circa 1998.
Why he wants it:
This was one of Margielas first
mens-wear collections. Its very
simple, hinting at 90s minimal-
ism, and also very masculine.
The Cardinal Rules of
Know your
S h* t
Whatever youre in-
towork boots, mil-
itaria, vintage bird-
cagesamass as
G e t Lo s t much knowledge as
The tempting other items you can. Remember:
tag can lead you happily Its better to know a
astray. Let it. What you lot about a little than
were looking at may steer you a little about a lot.
to something much more (Exceptions: game-
interesting. show contestants,
short-order cooks.)
1940s cigarette cases
from India. Lightweight late-
60s Barbour Inter-
national jacket.
Dumb It Down
The best sellersor the ones youll
benet from the mostare those
who dont know a thing about
what theyre putting up for auc-
tion. Misspelled designers and
misidentied or misdated items
often lter out a huge portion of
searchers. Which is why your fa-
vorite new brand is Hemrs.
Watch What You Spend
When it comes to watches, unless its a crazy bargain,
just dont. A good limit is $250. There are too
many shunted-together pieces purporting to be Rolex
or IWC, only with a crappy new movement inserted
or a brand name painted into a previously blank dial.
Franois Borgel silver trench watch,
c. 1918. DiBianco strap.
out a one-up bid three seconds before Size Matters
time expires. You wont win any popular- For the best gauge of t, take the laid-at
ity contests, but there are better places to measurements and compare them with
make friends on the Internet, anyway. something that youre sure ts well.
Keep in mind that items may have been
80s L. L. Bean Maine hunting shoes. altered by a previous owner.
60s bleu de travail French
mechanics jacket.
No. 111
Jacket ($6,635), shirt (price upon
request), and trousers ($1,705), Givenchy
by Riccardo Tisci; givenchy.com.

No. 112
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 PORTFOLIO 2

STREET
FIGHTING
MANWhen it comes to fashion,
the right answer often is
a simple what the hell. After
all, developing a strong
personal style requires
breaking ranks with the
uniformed masses. As any
good renegade or rock star
will tell youincluding
electro-pop sensation
BRNS, seen herea step
out of your comfort zone is a
step in the right direction.
Photographs by MAX VADUKUL
PORTFOLIO 2

Suit (price upon request) and shirt

($895) by Versace; us.versace.com.
Shoes ($1,215) by Haider Ackermann;
haiderackermann.com.
 Jacket ($6,680), shirt
($350), trousers
($750), loafers (price
upon request), and
necklaces (prices
upon request) by
Gucci; gucci.com.
Sunglasses ($400) by
Saint Laurent; ysl.com.

No. 115
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 X
Vest and trousers (part of suit, $3,995) by
Dolce & Gabbana; dolcegabbana.it. Sunglasses
($240) by Dolce & Gabbana; sunglasshut.com.

A STAR
IS BRNS
AS A TEN-YEAR-OLD working magician in the lakeside resort town
of Grand Haven, Michigan, Garrett Borns went by the name of Gar-
rett the Great. He performed at countless birthday parties, staged a
weekly show at a local red-sauce joint, and even starred in his own
instructional magic video, for which he also built the sets and com-
posed the music. Now, at 24, as he powers through an ever-expanding
world tour in support of his retrofuturistic debut album, Dopamine,
the glam-pop prince known professionally as BRNS is drawing on
lessons that he learned from his sleight-of-hand days. How to impro-
vise when you fuck up, he explains. Pretending like you still know
whats going on and then trying to recover from it. It kind of thickens
your skin. Thats pretty much been the past year and a half of my life.
Ever since Taylor Swift endorsed his rst single, Electric Love,
calling it an instant classic on Instagram, Borns has often had the
out-of-body experience of hearing his own falsetto wherever he
goes. Even if you cant hear the lyrics, he says over lunch in Los
Angeles, his adopted hometown, youre hearing its melody under
an ad for Hulu or Southwest Airlines. Its, like, subliminally happen-
ing around you. Its the one that kicks into gear Marc Bolanstyle,
with a chunka chunka drumbeat and skuzzy guitar licks, and then
segues into an a cappella nger-snapping bridge by way of Haim
before revving back up into its soaring chorus (And all I need is to
be struck by your Eee-lec-tric LUH-OOO-UH-OOO-UHVE). But like
Borns himselfwhos looking very Hunky Doryera David Bowie
in a green crop top and high-waisted blue jeans that accentuate his
rail-thin frame, his long and wavy locks glinting in the sunthere
is just something undeniable about Electric Love that transcends
pastiche. The structures are a lot more simplied now, especially
in pop music, he says. The Bee Gees, for example, wrote songs
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
PORTFOLIO 2
that sound so simple and palatable to your ear, but when you actu-
ally break them down, theyre so heady and complex. Im trying to
write songs with vivid colors and techniques that trick your mind.
Its more fun that way.
Borns may have an old soul, but he often comes across as a
mischievous innocent. At one point, he interrupts himself mid-
sentenceGod, the amount of butt cheeks hanging out in Santa
Monica is just . . .and then strikes up an imaginary conversation
with our waitress. Ill have the side of butt cheeks, please. Yes, with
the coconut oil. I can do the lathering.
Borns arrived in L. A. at 21 and lived in an actual tree house, which
was surrounded by fruit trees and nestled in a remote canyon,
while tooling around town in a 78 Mercedes 300D and indulging in
20-something pleasures such as picking up produce at the farm-
ers market, cooking for myself, going to yoga, exercising a lot, and
just clearing my mind. Now he embodies what the fashion rags are
calling the new Gucci man, as conceived by creative director Ales-
sandro Michele. Borns was invited to Guccis January runway show
in Milan, where he sat in the front row, and at Coachella in April, he
rocked a louche-and-lacy ensemble. Im living the dream, man, he
saysbut theres a twinkle in his eye that makes you question what
he really means by that. The dream, Borns claries, is pushing
yourself further than you think you can go. Its feeling like the payoff
is equal to the amount of work that youre putting in.
Though he just got back to L. A., Borns has no time to chill. Hes
off to Chicago tomorrow, followed by Europe for more festivals, and
then he heads back to the States for a tour with the Lumineers. After
which, he says, its back to the drawing board. Temperamentally
driven to take his audience by surprise, Bornslike Bowieis des-
tined to metamorphose. Indeed, its happening before my very eyes.
Flashing ngernails dotted with last nights polish, he lifts a glass to
his lips and sips a bright red elixir. Its the Roots and Remedy, he
says. Anything with beets. Im a beet acionado. Ever read Jitterbug
Perfume? The Tom Robbins novel? The whole book is about nding
immortality. Theyre searching for the secret ingredient. They wor-
ship the beet. Near the end of our lunch, I ask Borns if it bothers
him that his name is always mentioned in the same breath as Taylor
Swifts. His eyes narrow. Shes the biggest pop star in the world,
he says. Why wouldnt you want to be associated with that? Its like
saying, You gotta try this juice, man. Its the best juice ever! Doesnt
make the juice taste any different, you know?
L A U R E N C E L O W E
No. 117
Polo shirt ($395)
by Orley; orley.
com. Shirt ($600)
by Jeffrey Rdes;
jeffreyrudes.com.
Trousers ($229)
by Tommy Hilfiger;
tommy.com.
Sunglasses ($160)
by Ray-Ban;
ray-ban.com.

No. 118
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 PORTFOLIO 2

Cardigan ($1,595),
jacket ($1,719),
and trousers
($1,085) by J.W.
Anderson;
j-w-anderson.com.
Sneakers ($1,570)
by Roberto Cavalli;
robertocavalli.com.
PORTFOLIO 2

Shirt ($875)
by Lanvin;
lanvin.com.
 No. 121
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
No. 122
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 PORTFOLIO 2

Jacket ($1,185)
by DSquared2;
dsquared2.com.
Shirt ($810) and
jeans ($850)
by Dior Homme;
diorhomme.com.
PORTFOLIO 2

Shirt ($1,020),
trousers ($1,400),
and shoes (price
upon request) by
Prada; prada.com.
Socks by Haider
Ackermann; haider-
ackermann.com.
 P R O D U C E D B Y J O Y A S B U R Y P R O D U C T I O N S . S T Y L I N G ( B O R N S ) B Y M AT T H E W M A R D E N . G R O O M I N G B Y L A U R Y N T U L I O . H A I R ( E X T R A S ) B Y VA N E S S A P R I C E F O R T H E R E X A G E N C Y. S E T D E S I G N
B Y B R YA N P O R T E R F O R O W L A N D T H E E L E P H A N T. C O S T U M E D E S I G N ( E X T R A S ) B Y C A L L A N S T O K E S F O R G E R S H . F O R A D D I T I O N A L C L O T H I N G I N F O R M AT I O N S E E PA G E 1 6 0 .

No.
125
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
by Burberry; burberry.com.
Jacket ($1,895), shirt ($595),
trousers ($595), and boots ($750)
X
No. 126
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Sacred
An intimate look inside the creative
sanctuaries of four influential men
BY WHITNEY ROBINSON

The Haas Brothers

32, artists and designers

Over the past six years, twin brothers Simon

(left) and Nikolai Haas have come to dene
Los Angeless contemporary-art scene with
their psychedelic, humorous, and often ado-
lescent-tinged work, which plays on themes
relating to nature, sci-, color theoryand
anatomy. Their two-year-old industrial
space in West Adams is just as unorthodox,
functioning as a workshop for constructing
their large-scale pieces, a hall for throwing
parties, and (naturally) a recording studio.
Sometimes its full of furry beasts and other
times its full of sculptural trees, Nikolai
says. L. A. doesnt impose. Its there for you
to build whatever you want out of it.

P H OTO G R A P H BY D O U G L AS F R I E D M A N

Spaces
 Olivier Zahm
5 3, e d i t o r, P u r p l e Fa s h i o n m a g a z i n e

Fashion is social; interiors are intimate,

says cofounder of the avant-garde Paris-
based fashion zine Purple, Olivier Zahm,
whose personal style gravitates toward
Cuban heels, aviators, and tight bombers
Midnight Cowboy by way of the Left Bank.
His former apartment, a penthouse in an in-
dustrial building on the Canal St.-Martin, is
lled with pieces amassed from more than 20
years in the business: black-and-white Terry
Richardson portraits of Chlo Sevigny; a
vintage McIntosh sound system (he listens
to a record every night before going to bed);
casually tossed Moroccan rugs. This is the
place I go to escape my creative life, he says.
A secret place for resting, reading, having
sex, and long conversations.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T H E S E L BY

No. 128
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 Frdric Malle
5 4 , fo u n d e r, E d i t i o n s d e P a r f u m s

Frdric Malle built a mini fragrance empire

on his ability to sniff out the worlds greatest
perfumers. The rooms of the 15th-oor apart-
ment he shares with his wife and children on
Manhattans Upper East Side evidence a sim-
ilar skill for unearthing creative genius. The
origin of each object is irrelevant, he says
of his collection. Quality is the important
thing. Malle, who has been buying pieces
since childhood, frequently rearranges to
make room for new acquisitions. The art on
my walls has always been a source of energy
for me. It sets the bar at a level that pushes
me to be better in my own work.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T H O M AS LO O F

No. 131
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 The Best of
T E N -Y E A R

A N N I V E RSA RY

E D I T I O N

The Information
At the risk of self-congratulation, weve dropped quite a bit of useful knowledge in the past
decade. Consider these our greatest hits of timeless* wisdom.

HOW TO

The All-
Purpose But wheres the fun in that?

STEP 1

Suit Make a single stitch

in the shirt, about an
eighth of an inch long.
T H E S E D AY S , W H E N A L M O S T
Leave a three-inch
N O O N E S D O I N G I T, S U I T I N G end of loose thread.
U P I S T H E P E R F E C T WAY
T O S E T YO U R S E L F A PA R T
STEP 2
A . Up a Notch Repeat above, but
A small, high notch right on the perpendicular
collarbone atters anything to the last stitch to
you wear underneath your jacket make a cross.
even a turtleneck.

B . Go Brown STEP 3
We used to say navy was the Thread the needle up
standard, but in these ever more
through one hole in the but-
casual times, brown suits
ton and down through the
almost every occasion.
diagonally opposite hole.
C . T h a t Fu z z y Fe e l i n g Hold the button about an
eighth of an inch away from
Texture is fashions way of displaying
the shirt throughout. Next
character. To show you have some, look
for fabrics with visual interest and depth. time, use the other holes.
Repeat four times.
D . Make Some Ro o m
The jacket should have some t, but a suit
thats so tight it looks painted on identies
STEP 4
you as the man . . . of 2009. Wrap the thread tightly

I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY J O E M c K E N D RY
around the shank created
E . S n e a k At t a c k between the button
Wearing sneakers with a suit is practically and the cloth to create
conservative these days, but keep it a tight pillar.
sophisticated by choosing leather (not canvas).

F. Think Big STEP 5

Flat-front trousers are still perfectly great, but minimal Push the needle through
pleats and more volume in the leg are the latest trend. this pillar a couple
times. Cut the thread
Jacket ($2,995), sweater ($1,095), and trousers close to the pillar.
($895) by Ralph Lauren; ralphlauren.com. Sneakers
($800) by Santoni; santonishoes.com. (With thanks to Alexander S. Kabbaz.)

No.
*Slightly updated. 132
Time makes fools of us all. E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 You dont work in accounting (or even if you
do, you dont have to look like you do), so ditch the
briefcase for an upgraded tote. Unlike the
soft-bodied bag youre slinging to the beach, nd
one made of a tougher material like leather,
with a closable strap to keep your most personal
items, well, personal.
A

A . Grey New York Grey

New England bag
Handmade in Milan of pebbled leather, this
discreet tote has a at bottom that allows it to stand
without toppling over. $950; gnygne.com

B . B o s e Q u i e t C o m fo r t
35 headphones
The cushions envelop your ears to enrich sound and
cancel noisenow wireless, too. $350; bose.com

C . Dunhill Sentryman pen

Because a man should always be ready to take a
note (or a number), make sure your pen is a good
one. Price upon request; dunhill.com

D . Tu m i 4,0 0 0 m Ah power ban k

This textured charger juices up all your devices in a
body thats the size of an iPhone. $85; tumi.com

E . Appl e iPad Pro

This lightweight tablets ideal for dashing
off an email, reading a book, or killing
some zombies. From $799; apple.com

F. Montblanc sketchbooks
# 147, # 14 9
Take a sketch or write a reminder
in a notebook (both large and small)
bound in Italian Safano leather.
$40, $105; montblanc.com

C
E
D
F
Shoes The Best of The Information

THE OTHER

WINDSOR KNOT
A quick-release, nonslip knot for your shoelaces

Counter As a young woman, Olga Berluti, the guru

A half-moon-shaped behind the luxury brand, would sometimes fit
piece of leather that
reinforces the heel. custom-made Berluti shoes on the Duke
of Windsor, aka the former Edward VIII.
She noticed he tied his shoes in a particular way,
and he explained that hed been taught
Q u ar t er
the knot by his grandmother Queen Alexandra
The shoes rear, from
the laces to the
to ensure he was never embarrassed
heel on both sides. by trailing laces. This is it.

We l t
The strip of
leather running all
around the shoe to
which both the
sole and upper are
attached, creating
a watertight seal.

Throat
STEP 1 STEP 2
The opening
of the shoe, Instead of the usual Make a loop with the
into which over-and-under start, righthand lace and
the foot wrap one lace under bring the left lace be-
is inserted. a second time. hind as in a usual knot.

Fac i ng s
The parts
of the quarter
through which the
shoelaces pass.
A glet s
The sealed ends Laces
of the laces that
Cylindrical (or
make threading
rattail) laces are
through eyelets
always more
easy and prevent STEP 3 STEP 4
sophisticated than
laces from fraying
at ones. Choose Wrap the left lace Make a loop in the
and unraveling.
laces in waxed around the loop you left lace in the usual way
cotton, which helps made in the right end. and begin to tighten.
them last longer
by reducing water
damage and the
friction caused
G ra in by drawing them
The texture of the through
leather, which the eyelets.
can range from
smooth to pebbled
(as here).
Vam p
The front part of the
Toe
shoe reaching
The very tip of all the way back to
the vamp, right STEP 5 STEP 6
the quarter.
above where your Before fully closing the Tighten the knot
actual toes hit. Shoe ($795) by Scarpe knot, take the left- by pulling as usual
Di Bianco; hand loop and loop it on the two bows.
scarpedibianco.com. through once more. Ta-da!

No. 134
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6

CASE
M AT E R I A L S
S TA I N L E S S S T E E L
The good:
Lightweight and highly
corrosion-resistant.
The bad:
Prone to scratches.
YELLOW GOLD
The good:
Holds a shine and, if youre so
inclined, screams luxury.
The bad:
The purer the gold (i.e., the
higher the karat), the
softer the metal and the more
prone it is to dents.
ROSE GOLD
The good:
A rich, distinctive color.
The bad:
The red color tarnishes
with time.
T I TA N I U M
The good:
Lightweight and tough
about half the weight of steel but
almost twice as strong.
The bad:
Difficult to work with, so its
expensive to repair.
it keeps your automatic watch accurately ticking
while youre not wearing it, its useful.
To avoid wear on the winding mechanism, most
winders should run only 30 minutes a day.
By Wolf ($215); wolf1834.com.
Watch ($1,195) by Zodiac; watchstation.com.
The Best of The Information Watches
The Anatomy of the Watch
A T H R E E - M I N U T E G U I D E T O WAT C H M A K I N G J A R G O N
Youve never seen anything quite like the Richard Mille Regatta Flyback
chronograph, but it still bears the hallmarks of regular watchmakingand a price tag
usually reserved for a BMW i8. $150,000; richardmille.com
The case: T h e push er s:
and protects the watch
from one piece of metal
and includes the lugs.
zero.
T h e d ia l:
The crown:
Also known as the
face, it displays the Also known as the
time with markings stem, its often found
and subdials. at the 3:00 position
and used to adjust
the settings. In manu-
The cr ystal: al watches, the crown
The covering that is used to wind
protects the dial. Its the mainspring.
typically made of
glass, plastic, The batons:
or synthetic sapphire The rectangular bars
(i.e., crystallized afxed to a watch
aluminum oxide).
to mark the hours.
The bezel:
T h e subd ial s:
of chronographs, these
small circles are used
to mark elapsed time.
Watch roll:
If you are lucky enough to have a
will keep your watch safe in transit. watch collection, congratulations.
Then again, so will a tube sock. You might also want a place to house
By Hodinkee ($55 each); hodinkee.com. them all for storage and travel.
Watch ($850) by Filson; lson.com. By Smythson ($550); smythson.com. Watches
by, from left, Bulova, Seiko, IWC.
No. 135
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
How to Guide

Compliment
a Woman
Never harp
it seems
d isin gen uous.

Try: Love your hair.

Whens dinner?

You ca n say t hat

h er ha ir is a n
improvement, but
not so much of
an improvement Yo u r n i e c e l o o ks
as to imply that cute or pretty.
you d id nt Your wife l ooks
like it before. gorgeous, stunning,
beautiful,
Try: I like what youre or am az in g.
doing with your hair.
Try: You look [any of the
adjectives above].

As basic as it
s o u n d s , wo m e n
l ove t o h e a r
that a color looks
g r e at o n t h e m .
Nothing says
Try: That color looks sincerity more
really nice on you. t h an t h e l ook
on your face.
Either that
or a wel l -pl ac ed
expletive.

Try: You look fucking

amazing.

When complimen t in g
her chest or ass,
t r y t o avo i d s o u n d i n g
lascivious.

Try: That color looks really

nice on you.

W h en in d oubt ,
go simple.

Try: Wow.
 The Best of The Information Women

A N I L LU ST R AT E D

Notes on Worry-Free Ogling GUIDE TO

KISSING
N O S U N G L A S S E S ? H E R E S H O W T O A P P R E C I AT E A B E A U T I F U L
W O M A N A N D G E T A WAY W I T H I T. WOMEN
H OW TO AVO I D G E T T I N G CAU G H T:
Position yourself so that the person you wish to ogle
is between you and something youre actually
allowed to look at (e.g., the ocean at the beach or
the television at a bar). Do it alone. By yourself, its
a discreet act of appreciation, like watching a sun- The Air-Kiss
set. When done with a couple other guys, howev- R e m e m b e r : No lips to skin,
er, you draw attention to yourselves, and what was and no cheek to cheek, either.
harmless can seem predatory and disrespectful. Good for:
A casual acquaintance.

YOUV E B E E N CAUG H T: W H AT N OW?

Shift your attention immediately to the object
in the background and hope she thinks that you
werent actually looking at her. Or . . . if she doesnt
buy that, approach her and say, Excuse me, but
is your name [insert name here] and did you go The Quick Peck
to [insert name of your alma mater here]? When R e m e m b e r : Go for
she says no, apologize and say she reminds you of her right cheek.
an old friend from college. Walk away and dont so G o o d f o r : Your mom.
much as breathe in her direction again. Or . . . be
bold. Maintain eye contact and smile, because if
you act like what you did was wrong, then shes
more inclined to think it was wrong. If you have
any interest beyond ogling, go say hello. And, if ap-
plicable, remove your wedding band. BEN CAKE
The European Kiss
R e m e m b e r : Let her initiate
the second peck.

Get Out of the Doghouse: G o o d f o r : Your wifes

Italian cousin.

Liars Edition
O C C A S I O N A L LY, Y O U H AV E T O L I E T O Y O U R W I F E F O R H E R S A K E .
( AT L E A S T T H AT S W H AT Y O U C A N T E L L Y O U R S E L F. ) B U T W H E N Y O U G E T C A U G H T,
S O M E T I M E S A S I M P L E A P O LO GY I S N T E N O U G H .
On the Mouth
R e m e m b e r : No
tongue in public.
Y O U L I E D A B O U T. . . G o o d f o r : Your wife or
significant other. Or both.
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY J O E M c K E N D RY

He r d r e s s He r n ew Th at woman He r fr i e nds He r m o the r

Flowers haircut who Suede pumps Python-skin bag On the Hand
By Mareur Azure Crystal wa lke d by By Casadei By Gucci
($150); mari- Woman perfume Aviator ($775); casadei. ($4,700); By Van Cleef R e m e m b e r : The mouth
eurdesign.com. By M. Micallef sunglasses com. gucci.com. & Arpels lightly touches the hand.
($265); By Fendi ($450); ($56,500); van- Never lick between the fingers.
osswaldnyc.com. fendi.com. cleefarpels.com. G o o d f o r : The popes ring.

No. 137
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 The Best of The Information

G
D Safety pin
C

B
doesnt show.

You never know when,

H M

enjoying a flaming

hotels minibar.
L

Zyrtec
When your allergies
K start acting up (or that
shrimp ceviche turns
into an itchy throat),
youll be glad to
have a nondrowsy anti-

The Perfect Dopp Kit histamine on hand.

This is the perfect Dopp kit. To the untrained eye, it may look like other, nonperfect Dopp kits, but heres why Berocca
its perfect. For one thing, its made of nylon, so its suited to the messy rough-and-tumble of travel (just wipe This trendy effervescent
it clean). For another, its a shallow rectangle that you can stack in your bag. Finally, its roomy enough to hold vitamin supplement claims to
all of this, which is more or less what every man should carry. Dopp kit ($120) by Reiss; reiss.com. aid mental sharpness and
physical energy. Remember:
A. Kiehls Facial Fuel UV F. Baxter of California J. The Art of Shaving No ones ever died of a hangover,
Guard sunscreen ($38) citrus and herbal-musk Morris Park Collection but why take the chance?
deodorant ($19) razor ($60)
B. V76 by Vaughn hair wax ($21)
G. Nivea Men moisturizing K. Marvis cinnamon mint
C. Kiehls Age Defender Disinfecting wipes
cream ($2) toothpaste ($6)
Eye Repair cream ($30)
H. Molton Brown hydrating L. Quip electric toothbrush Because that tray tablein
D. Le Labo Santal 33
cream (from $40) its upright and locked
cologne travel tube ($150)
position or otherwiseis
I. The Art of Shaving lemon M. Radius dental floss ($4)
E. ClarinsMen Active face potentially the filthiest
shaving cream ($30)
wash ($23) thing on the entire airplane.

No. 138
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 The Best of The Information Work

Create Your Own A N I L LU ST R AT E D

GUIDE TO

SHAKING
Business Card HANDS

A E

B
The Basic
Good for:
C F The first meeting.

D
The Hand Grab
Font : Adobe Garamond. Paper color: O ff-w h it e . Fo r the r e s t: Se e be l ow. Good for:
A warm introduction.
A . Direct B . Paper: C. Type D. Full E . Optional: F. Name in A note on
phone 100-pound or color: black. address in brief descrip- 11-point type, social media:
number and higher card seven-point tion of service with caps and Websites and
email address stock. Matte type, with provided in small caps; Twitter han-
in seven- nish. caps and seven-point title goes di- dles are ne.
point type. small caps. type. rectly beneath Instagram
in seven-point is dicey. Never
type, with ini- list your
tial caps. Tinder prole.
The Summit
Good for:
An international dtente.

The Business-
Card Guide
A M E R I C A N P SYC H O E D I T I O N

Off-white backgrounds are a sign

of good taste. Bone is good. Eggshell is
better. Pale nimbus* is best.
T h e S h o u l d e r To u c h
Serifs are a classic sign of good taste;
sans serif is more modern and therefore Good for:
suspicious. Preferred fonts include A heart-to-heart.
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY J O E M c K E N D RY

Romalian and Silian Rail.

Opt for a tasteful thickness in paper

stock; if your card is imsy, people will
think youre imsy.

Raised lettering: tasteful.

Watermarks: whenever possible.

The Neck Grab
* This color doesnt really exist, but its a Good for:
slightly lighter white than eggshell. A menacing send-off.

No. 139
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Food & Drink The Best of The Information

The Well-Stocked Wet Bar

YO U R E N O T A B A R T E N D E R A N D YO U D O N T L I V E I N A B A R . B U T YO U D O, O N O C C A S I O N ,
L I K E T O E N T E R TA I N , A N D Y O U WA N T T O K N O W T H E E S S E N T I A L I N G R E D I E N T S A N D T O O L S R E Q U I R E D T O M A K E
M O S T O F T H E C O C K TA I L S Y O U D E V E R WA N T T O M A K E . Y O U , S I R , A R E I N L U C K .
By David Wondrich

The Bottles Dry vermouth OUR PICK: PUG!

OUR PICK: Noilly Prat Stirring rod
Rye whiskey
OUR PICK: Cointreau Long barspoon
Rittenhouse Campari
You can also substitute Wooden mallet
a good bourbon like Cognac Canvas coin
Old Pappy Van Win- Or another kind of sack
kles Family Reserve. brandy. (Good for cracking
Scotch whisky Yellow ice fast.)
OUR PICK: Famous Chartreuse or Blender,
Grouse Bndictine if youre so disposed
If youre looking for
Optional:
more of a sipping
Scotch, try a Balvenie 2 bottles red wine, 2 And Dont
12-year-old single bottles white wine, as- Forget
malt. sorted beers.
Plenty of
Vodka club soda
OUR PICK: Russian The Glasses
Standard Plenty of tonic
6 highball Fresh lemons
Dark rum glasses
OUR PICK: El Dorado Limes
five-year-old 6 martini or
Simple syrup
coupe glasses
White rum (1 part sugar, 1 part
OUR PICK: Mount 6 all-purpose water, heated until
Gay White wineglasses the sugar dissolves,
then stored in a
Tequila squeeze bottle.)
OUR PICK: Don Julio T h e To o l s And/or
Reposado superfine sugar
Glass and tin
Gin shakers
OUR PICK:
Tanqueray Strainer
Sweet Jiggers
vermouth (Two sizes: 1 oz by
oz and oz by 1 oz.)
OUR PICK: Martini &
Rossi Hand juicer
Muddler

THE MASTER LIST OF

HANGOVER REMEDIES

The Carbonated Mixed

Beer Red Wine White Wine Dark Liquors
Po i s o n Drinks

These contain congeners, The carbonation causes

The grains and yeast The tannins lead The sugar content in some
The in beer lead to bloating to sharp, migrainesque white wines can trigger
substances that, when you to absorb the alcohol
Symptoms metabolized, can lead to faster and increases the
and diarrhea. headaches. dehydration and headaches.
intense nausea. likelihood of dehydration.

A whisky and lemonade

Aspirin and Gatorade. The Rehydrate with some
Alka-Seltzer Plus. (preferably with homemade
aspirin eases headaches, and
The The carbonation soothes your
the Gatorade helps
water over the course of the lemonade). Lemon
See: red wine.
Remedy nausea while the aspirin day and take an stimulates digestion while
replace the uids youve lost
takes care of the headache. ibuprofen for the headache. whisky decreases withdrawal
around the brain.
symptoms. Or see: red wine.

No. 140
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 How to
Guide

Sear a Steak
BY CHARLIE PALMER

FOR YEARS CHEFS talked about

searing meat to caramelize the surface,
forming a crust that seals in juices. Then
a food-science writer named Harold
McGee explained that the browning of
meat isnt caramelization (which occurs
only when sugar is present); its some-
thing called the Maillard reaction, relat-
ed to the combination of carbohydrate
molecules and amino acids. Although
searing may not technically seal in juic-
iness, the contrast between the crust and
the tender interior is otherworldly.

The t ools:
A heavy, thick-bottomed pan (like cast
iron), which will evenly distribute heat
and wont cool down when meat is
added.
Tongs. Stabbing with a fork will release
all those precious juices. Just stab your-
self with a fork and see what happens.
Grape-seed oil, for its high smoking
point. When oil smokes, it develops an
acrid taste. Canola works ne, too, and
is cheaper. (Rule of thumb: The less
avor an oil has, the higher the smok-
ing point.)

St ep 1 :
Warm pan over high heat and add just
enough oil to coat the bottom. Heat un-
til the oil begins to roll, moving in rip-
ples when the pan is slightly shaken.

Step 2:
Dry meat with a paper towel. Season
well, showering salt over it from about
a foot above, through your ngers. Pep-
per, too. Do this just before searingif
the salt draws out moisture, the result-
ing steam can inhibit browning.

St ep 3 :
Add steaks, but leave about an inch be-
tween them, so any moisture evapo-
rates immediately.

St ep 4:
Reduce heat to medium when you see
that the edges of the meat touching
the pan have browned (about 3 min-
utes). The sear is there; now were go-
ing for some crust. Add extra oil if the
pan is drymost of the stuff you added
in the beginning will now be spattered
all over your stovetop. Flip the steaks
after 4 more minutes and sear the oth-
er side for 3 minutes. For more well-
done, transfer pan to a 350 degree oven
to nish, about 4 to 6 minutes. Remove
the steaks from the pan and let rest for
a good 5 minutes before serving. The
juices need to redistribute themselves
through the meat before slicing.
Ciao
 PORTFOLIO 3

Almost a century
after this legend-
ary city perfected
the modern
silhouettesuits
and jackets that
are soft and
unstructured,
with the right
amount of air
its streets are still
a source of inspi-
ration. We asked
eight men who
know Naples
well to discuss its
innumerable
charms (and share
a few restaurant
recs, too).

Napoli!
Ph ot og ra p h s by
P H I L P OY N T E R
I n t e r v i ews by DAV I D C O G G I N S

My favorite tailor, and

the only other brand
I sell in my store in Milan,
is Cesare Attolini.
Andrea Boniello, owner,
M. Bardelli clothing store

Jacket ($5,900), shirt

($550), tie ($350), and
trousers ($1,400) by
Cesare Attolini; cesare
attolini.com. Shoes by
Bardelli; mbardelli.com.
Socks ($30) by Bresciani
1970; neimanmarcus.com.

No. 143
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 I love the fresh fish at
Dora, a small restaurant off
the Riviera di Chiaia.
Sergio Guardi,
cofounder, Barbanera shoes

Coat ($4,695), jacket

($2,895), shirt ($375), and
trousers ($425) by Ermene-
gildo Zegna; zegna.com. Tie
($195) by Eidos Napoli; saks.
com. Sunglasses ($350) by
Persol; sunglasshut.com.

In Naples, you dont see the

seayou feel it inside yourself.
No. 144
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 PORTFOLIO 3

My favorite tailor is Luca

Rubinacci; his shop off Via
Filangieri is the best mens store.
Sebastiano Guardi,
cofounder, Barbanera shoes

Coat (price upon request),

suit ($6,450), tie ($300),
and pocket square ($220)
by Kiton; kiton.it. Shirt
($750) by Stefano Ricci;
stefanoricci.com.
 Everyone should
see the Veiled Christ
sculpture at the
Sansavero Chapel.
Andrea Boniello
Suit ($2,500), shirt
($250), and tie ($150) by
Bardelli; mbardelli.com.

No. 146
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 PORTFOLIO 3

My favorite restaurant in
Naples is Baccalaria;
they cook only baccal, but
in 60 different ways.
Nicolangelo Gelormini,
film director
Coat ($1,295) by L.B.M. 1911; 515-283-
2121. Suit ($1,295) by Luigi Bianchi
Mantova; 212-302-3661. Shirt ($485) by
Finamore; barneys.com. Tie ($125)
by Eleventy; eleventy.it. Shoes ($745)
by Churchs; church-footwear.com.

I LOVE THE STRATIFICATION OF THE

SOULS THAT YOU CAN STILL SEE
IN THE WALLS OF THIS CITY, SINCE
THE FIFTH CENTURY B.C., LIKE
THE RINGS IN THE WOOD OF A TREE.
Go to Moccia for coffee and
their special tomato pizzetta.
Sebastiano Guardi

Suit ($3,375) by Belvest;

belvest.com. Shirt ($375) by
Ermenegildo Zegna; zegna.
com. Tie ($230) by E. Marinel-
la; marinellanapoli.it. Loafers
($600) by Barbanera; barneys.
com. Socks ($30) by Bresciani
1970; neimanmarcus.com.

I NEED TO EAT PIZZA. I LOVE IT. IT SOUNDS

EVERY DAY. .  .  .  A ND IN NAPLES, I ALWAYS
No. 148
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 PORTFOLIO 3

See the Farnese Collection

and the Neapolitan Gallery at
the Capodimonte Museum.
Sergio Guardi

Suit ($3,495) by Ravaz-

zolo; 404-231-0044. Shirt
($520) by Battistoni;
battistoni.com. Tie ($230)
by E. Marinella; marinella-
napoli.it. Shoes ($600) by
Barbanera; barneys.com.
Socks ($30) by Bresciani
1970; neimanmarcus.com.

SO ORDINARY, BUT I COULD HAVE IT

EAT AT LEAST TWO IN ONE SITTING.
Sergio Guardi
 Naples in one
word: energy.
An explosion of
energy, and a
crazy, fatalistic
vision of
the world.

My favorite restaurant has always

been Dora, but I recently discovered
Coco Loco, which has delicious
fresh fish and a great wine cellar.
Cesare Cunaccia, editor at large,
Italian Vogue

Suit ($6,900), shirt ($590), and tie ($295)

by Cesare Attolini; cesareattolini.com. Shoes
(price upon request) by Calzoleria Rivolta;
calzoleriarivolta.com.
 PORTFOLIO 3

I love Salvatore
Ambrosis workshop
for trousers. He has
a special taste for
geometry, volume,
and design.
Cesare Cunaccia

Suit ($6,900), shirt ($590),

and tie ($295) by Cesare
Attolini; cesareattolini.com.
Shoes (price upon request)
by Calzoleria Rivolta; cal-
zoleriarivolta.com. Radiomir
California watch ($7,700) by
Panerai; panerai.com.
No. 151
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Try the pizza at Sorbillo in the old
town. Once youve tried fried pizza,
you cant live without it!
Mario Aprile, financial services

Coat ($6,295) and suit ($3,125) by Canali;

canali.com. Shirt ($305) by Caruso; caru-
somenswear.com. Tie ($300) and shoes
(price upon request) by Kiton; kiton.it.
 PORTFOLIO 3

The best coffee

in Naples is at Caff
Cimmino.
Andrea Boniello

Suit ($2,500), shirt

($250), tie ($150), and
shoes ($1,200) by
Bardelli; mbardelli.com.

IF YOU WANT TO WAKE UP

ENJOYING CASTEL DELLOVO
VIEWS, STAY AT THE GRAND
HOTEL VESUVIO. IF YOUR
TASTE IS MORE MODERN,
CHOOSE THE ROMEO HOTEL.
IF YOU LIKE NEAPOLITAN
FOLKLORE, STAY IN
THE OLD TOWN AT PALAZZO
CARACCIOLO.
No. 153
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Naples is not like
a prostitute. It
doesnt reveal itself
all at once.

My favorite Naples landmarks

are Sanit and all the churches,
buildings, and catacombs
along the Sacred Mile.
Giovanni Gravina di Ramacca,
lawyer, luxury and leisure
consultant

Suit, shirt, and shoes,

Gravina di Ramaccas own.
Tie ($230) by E. Marinella;
marinellanapoli.it.

No. 154
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
PORTFOLIO 3

The DonnAnna Palace is

amazing. It offers a breath-
taking view and has been used
in many movies and in Armani
and Prada advertisements.
Mario Aprile

Coat ($1,750) by E. Formicola;

hstockton.com. Suit ($4,595) by
Brunello Cucinelli; brunellocuci-
nelli.com. Shirt ($295) by Elev-
enty; eleventy.it. Shoes ($805)
by A. Testoni; testoni.com.
 PORTFOLIO 3

IN THE OLD TOWN, YOU CAN FIND IT ALL: GREAT MEALS,

SIGHTSEEING, SHOPPING. I LOVE THE CITYS SOUL,
ITS UNIQUENESS, HOW ITS RETAINED ITS IDENTITY. ANY
FAULTS IT HAS ONLY ADD TO ITS RICHNESS.

My favorite clothing store is

Etcetera Etc. on Via Vetriera.
Antonio Martinello, architect

Jacket ($3,900), tie ($225),

and trousers ($850) by Isaia;
isaia.it. Shirt ($625) by Finamore;
barneys.com. Shoes ($1,495) by
No.
Tods; tods.com.
156
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
P R O D U C T I O N ( L O C A L LY ) B Y S A LVAT O R E A D D E Z I O. G R O O M I N G B Y PA U L D O N O VA N F O R C L M . L O C AT I O N S A N D T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S U P P L I E D B Y G I O VA N N I A N D L A U R A G R AV I N A D I R A M A C C A ,
L U X U R Y A N D L E I S U R E C O N S U LTA N T S .

Cesare Cunaccia

($625) by Finamore;
Jacket ($1,095) by Pal

by Magnifique Napoli;
flavor and opulence.

magnifiquenapoli.com.
peculiar churches, like

barneys.com. Tie ($164)

Zileri; 212-751-8585. Shirt
Im obsessed with some

the gorgeous and colossal

Ges Nuovo, with her esoteric
 T H E
I N FO R M AT I O N
Naples, Italy
How to eat, drink, shop, and get your cultural fix like an honest-to-God Neapolitan
10
15
First, a Note About Napoli...
A B R I E F R U M I N AT I O N O N T H E T I M E L E S S I TA L I A N C I T Y
The essential appeal of Naples is its chaosthe
looming doom that is Mount Vesuvius, the dy-
namic nightlife, the intensity of the people, the
whiff of illicitness that seems to be everywhere,
and even its trafc. (Go ahead, try and nd a car
that is not dinged or scratched.) And then imag-
ine all of this raucousness jammed into a place
of unspeakable beauty, where history drips from
every faade and courtyard.
I L LU ST R AT I O N BY ZO M O R E O' F E R R A L L
14
11
2 13 Boats docked alongside Castel
dellOvo on the Gulf of Naples.
1 3 7
6
12
4
5
Spend time walking the jumbled streets of Na-
ples and you learn, very quickly, that Neapolitans
dont just love their city; they have veryvery
specic opinions about what the best parts of it
are. And youd be a fool not to listen and learn: Naples is a city with no illusions about itself. Its
who makes the best pizza, who cuts the best suit, visceral in the best senseits impossible to in-
who pulls the best coffee. And if by chance you habit this centuries-old city that has created so
disagree with someones choices, you are advised much beauty and not feel very much alive.
to be prepared to mount a vigorous defense. D AVID C OGGINS
No. 158
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
 Where to Shop 15

T H E C I T Y T H AT P E R F E C T E D M O D E R N TA I L O R I N G S T I L L H A S I T A L L S T I T C H E D U P

you, starting at an earth- di Chiaia). Another third-

bound $1,900. generation business, its
If you want a shirt from the most famous tie maker
Naplesand you dohead in the city, if not the coun-
to [3] Piccolo (14 Via try. Businessmen have
Chiaia). At the far side of been known to swing by on
a courtyard are a series of their way to work (the shop
small rooms with endless opens at 6:30 a.m.), and a
bolts of fabric. Tailors will custom piece will cost you
take your measurements only about $145. As for his
and ask for a few of your mostly restrained designs,
preferences, and youll have Mr. Marinella cites a lesson
2 a shirt sent to you in a few his father taught him: You
weeks. Itll run you about dont want your tie to be
$200, depending on the too interesting; it distracts WHERE TO
An Englishman may raise cause there are none). An material. Once Piccolo has from your face.
an eyebrow if you ask him unlined sport coat? A den- those measurements, you [6] M. Cilento & F.llo E AT
who his tailor is; a Nea- itive double-breasted suit? can order any time, which (203204 Riviera di Chi-
Mangia, mangia... you get the idea
politan wont. In fact, Youre in the right place. can be a blessing or a curse, aia) was founded in 1780
Neapolitans discuss their If you want something depending on your level of and is often cited as the old-
clothiers with the fervor more local, head to [2] self-control. est mens store in Naples. When it comes to Italian seafood,
American men reserve for Ettore de Cesare Sarto- You can also try [4] Sal- They specialize in bespoke [12] Ristorante Dora (30 Via
sports teams. rie (15 Piazza Vanvitelli), in vatore Piccolo (92a clothing but have a ter- Ferdinando Palasciano) is a
If money is no issue, start the hilltop neighborhood Via Carlo Poerio), the ric selection of bags and classic choicetwo small tiled
at [1] Rubinacci (149 Via of Vomero. De Cesare is cult shirtmaker (no rela- shoes. At the other end of rooms with no view whatsoever.
Chiaia). Perfectly situated the third-generation own- tion) with a surprising ar- the spectrum are the series Come here for linguine with lan-
on the Chiaia, the shop of- er of an intimate space, and ray of basic shirtswhite or of small stores on the Chi- goustines, shrimp, and clams, or
fers an extensive collection everything he sells is cus- bluewith expressive col- aia. All have vaguely Eng- seafood risotto. If youre on an ex-
of ties, light-as-air jackets, tom. Hell lead you across a lars and unexpected fabrics, lish names and all seem pense account, look toward the
shirts with suitably large small walkway to a studio like a pitch-perfect cham- to be having sales. (Local- lobster or the grilled fish of the
collars, and Belgian loafers. where the tailors make not bray ($250, much cheaper ly made shirts for $35!) We day. Tony the waiter will test your
Above the shop is the studio only suits but surprising- than his American line). recommend [7] Ascot (72 knowledge of U.S. state capitals,
where bespoke clothes are ly nice safari jackets. Get a Perhaps the quintessen- Via Chiaia), which offers and he knows his stuff.
cut and sewn without the true bespoke suit based on tial Naples store is [5] E. washed cotton sport coats
Naples produces Italys great-
sound of any machines (be- a paper pattern cut just for Marinella (287 Riviera for under $110.
est mozzarella. Its tangier and
slightly grassier than what youre
used to, and not at all bland. Taste
MUSEUMS:
A Word on Coffee
this firsthand in the famous series
of cheese stores [13] Sogni di
TWO TO SEE Latte (13 Via Michele Kerbaker).
Tomatoes in Naples are small
Because you should come home W H I C H WAY T O T H E S TA R B U C K S ? S A I D N O and very sweet, and the basil
with a little bit of culture N E A P O L I TA N E V E R doesnt get any fresher. Put it all
along with your three new suits together and you have the piz-
and five extra pounds Any Neapolitan can tell za margherita. Try one at [14] da
you where to nd a good Concettina ai Tre Santi (7 Via
From the Romans in 4 B.C. to Na- cup of coffee. We sug- Arena della Sanit), a bright, wel-
poleon in 1806, Naples has been gest you try [10] Caf coming establishment near the
shaped largely by its conquer- do Brasil (31 Via Luca Sanit food markets thats been
ors. [8] The National Archeo- Giordano) or [11] Mex- at it since 1951. Lunch with a beer
logical Museum of Naples (19 ico (86 Piazza Dante). is about $10. When they bring the
Piazza Museo Nazionale) is a tru- In Naples, cups are very pizza out, youll swear you wont
ly extraordinary place with a won- short, very strong, and, be able to finish it, but theres no
derful collection of early Roman if youre like the average need to lie to yourself.
statues as well as mosaics and resident, imbibed more Napless patron saint of piz-
other artifacts from Pompeii that than four times a day. za, however, is Enzo Coccia of
re-create that vanished world. Uniformed waiters walk [15] Pizzaria La Notizia (53 and
At one of the highest points briskly down the street, 94 Via Michelangelo da Caravag-
bringing covered trays
in the city is [9] Museo di Capo- gio). Coccia is sought out by chefs
often with a single ciga-
dimonte (2 Via Miano), the for- 11 from around the world for his ad-
rette alongside the cup
mer Bourbon palace surrounded to people who dont have vice on dough making and prop-
by majestic gardens. Youre time to leave work for their regiment- time to practice this because everyone er crust consistency. It shows. The
here for paintings by Italian ed caffeine infusion. you meetfrom a friend at his ofce to more traditional setting, usual-
masters like Titian, Raphael, and One tip to drinking coffee in Na- a store ownerwill always ask if you ly with a line out the door, is Piz-
Caravaggio. When I visited, Julian ples: Its always served with water, want a cup. Before you know it, youll zaria 53. Pizzaria 94, right down
Schnabel was leaving wearing which should be drunk rst. Drinking be on your sixth espresso of the day, the street, is a more experimental
a baseball hat and a pair of water after coffee is an insultyoure which isnt necessarily a bad thing outpost. Try the fried pizzalike a
purple pajamas. What more not tasting it, not considering it, not youre probably not going to eat din- calzone, but not nearly as heavy,
could you want? respecting it. You will have plenty of ner before 9:00 P.M., anyway. with a faint hint of smoke.

No. 159
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
CREDITS
Photographs and Illustrations: Editors Letter, p. 32:
Susan Pittard/Studio D. One Tough Mudder,
p. 52: Ensemble: Ben Goldstein/Studio D;
storm-chasing: Jim Reed/National Geographic.
The Peaks of Perfection, p. 54: Skier: Merkushev
Vasiliy/Shutterstock; pp. 55, 56: Chairlift, Alta
Badia: Pete Kovacevic; p. 56: Prato Piazza:
PatitucciPhoto; clothing, accessories, pins:
Ben Goldstein/Studio D. Magnum Force, p. 60:
Ben Goldstein/Studio D. Hauling Class, p. 62:
A. J. Mueller. Only If It Suits You, p. 66: Richard
Richards/Cond Nast; p. 67: Showroom: Stuart
C. Wilson; Tempah: Kirstin Sinclair; p. 68:
Clothing: Stuart C. Wilson; p. 69: Layer Cake:
Sony/Neal Peters Collection. Frozen Assets, p.
72: Kimberley Frenchlighter; p. 73: Kenworthy:
Simon Bruty/Sports Illustrated; products: Ben
Goldstein/Studio D. Hardware Update Is Available,
p. 74: Football: Ben Goldstein/Studio D. Go Long,
p. 76: Prince Charles: Princess Diana Archive;
p. 78: Elba: David M. Bennett; p. 80: Statham:
HM/Gaumer-Griffin. Information: Vintage Style,
p. 111: David Lawrence/Studio D. Street Fighting
Man, p. 115: Sunglasses by Garrett Leight; model
on left: swimsuit by Oye; on right: swimsuit by
Solid & Striped; p. 116: Model on left: Shirt by
Lucky; shorts by Levis; on right: shirt by Gap;
skirt by Hudson; p. 124: Model on left: Jacket by
Pam & Gela; dress by Blessed Are the Meek;
shoes by Jimmy Choo; necklace and ring by
Swarovski; bag by Sam Edleman; in middle:
dress by Maje; shoes by Jimmy Choo; on right:
shirt and pants by Sandro; shoes by Jimmy
Choo; p. 125: Model on left: Shirt by Frame;
on right: shirt by Callens. Sacred Spaces, pp.
126127: Courtesy Trunk Archive. Best of The
Information, p. 132: Jones, from The Eyes of
Laura Mars: Everett Collection; suit: Ben Gold-
No. 160
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
See One Tough
Mudder, page 48.
stein/Studio D; p. 133: Ben Goldstein/Studio D.
p. 134: Shoe: Philip Friedman/Studio D; p. 135:
The Tools: Philip Friedman/Studio D; p. 136:
Martin Rusch/Trunk Archive; p. 137: Obama: Ja-
son Reed/Reuters; p. 138: Ben Goldstein/Studio
D; p. 139: American Psycho: Lions Gate/Everett
Collection; p. 140: Everett Collection; p. 141: Will
Styer/The Licensing Project. Information: Naples,
p. 159: Coffee: Breana Branham. My Favorite
Thing, p. 162: Cucinelli: Alessandro Albert.
Esquire: The Big Black Book is published by Hearst Communica-
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 HANDLE YOURSELF WITH CONFIDENCE AND STYLE

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 My Favorite
Thing
FASHION DESIGNER BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ON
THE ULTIMATE CREATIVE ACCESSORY

PHOTOGRAPH
BY MICHAEL HAINEY

MY FAVORITE TOOL TO WORK WITH is the Paper Mate

SharpWriter #2. It reminds me of all the great artists
of the past who would sketch with a charcoal pencil,
which is actually very similar to graphite. Of course,
I love that you can go back and correct your work, but
what I especially appreciate is the sense memory of
the lead and the eraseryou breathe in the scent of
your childhood. Ive been collecting pencils for years
now, and Ive developed a special liking for this one because its beautiful just
to look at (I love the color), it ts right in my jackets inner pocket, and since its
mechanical, theres never any need to sharpen it.

No. 162
E S Q U I R E S B I G B L A C K B O O K FA L L 2 0 1 6
Be Noble. Drink Responsibly. 2016 Casa Noble Imports, Canandaigua, NY. Tequila. 40% alc./vol. Product of Mexico. Produced and bottled by La Cofradia S.A. de C.V.,
Calle La Cofradia 1297, Col La Cofradia, Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico C.P. 46400. Certified organic by CCOF Certification Services, LLC.

TRIPLE DISTILLED | CERTIFIED ORGANIC | SMALL BATCH

OUR PURSUIT BEGAN WITH THE SIMPLE BELIEF
THAT THE WORLD DESERVED A SUPERIOR TEQUILA.