Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Portrait Photography
Photographs of the Famous and Infamous
B R I AN SM I TH
Secrets of Great Portrait Photography
Photographs of the Famous and Infamous
Brian Smith
New Riders
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987654321
TELL THE
STORY
Not every picture is worth a thousand words. The value
of an image depends on how much you give it to say.
RICHARD BRANSON
Photographed on Necker Island for TIME
Richard Bransonon Necker Islandin a space- beaches to red rock cliffs that looked like Mars.
suit. That pitch from TIME magazine photo edi- But my favorite was a little sandbar just off the
tor Dietmar Liz-Lepiorz is as good of a pitch as island surrounded by nothing but the crystal blue
Ive ever heard. But to be honest, he had me at waters of the Caribbean.
Branson. After discovering that I wanted to shoot on a
Branson is a photographers dream subject: spit of sand just off the island at sunrise, Bran-
Hes extremely media savvy, and he knows a son leaned over to me at dinner and slyly said,
great concept when he hears one. So when TIME Sunrise is at 5:30 a.m. Without skipping a beat,
suggested putting him in a spacesuit for a story he added, So you and I need to be at the dock
about his new Virgin Galactic space flights, he at five.
was immediately onboard. While Dietmar was The next morning, which happened to be
arranging for the suit to be shipped to the Carib- Christmas Eve morning, we were all up before
bean, I was off to Bransons private island in the dawn boarding the boat. The crew included Bran-
British Virgin Islands. sons boat captain, the islands general manager,
Once I landed on Necker Island, I headed out and my wife Fazia, the stylist on this and most of
to scout for a location. When photographing my shoots. We landed our boat on the sandbar
an environmental portrait on location, the shot just in time for Branson to don the spacesuit as
is about the person and the place, so I always the sun began to break the horizon. I shot from
spend time before the shoot getting to know one knee so that Branson and his spacesuit rose
the location and searching out the most inter- heroically into the sky.
esting place to shoot. Necker Island had a lot of We shot on the sandbar for about 45 minutes
great locations ranging from palm-lined tropical starting at first lightthe prettiest part of the
When shooting portraits of Dolph Lundgren at spot somewhere out of the way. Even if youre
work on a John Woo film in Toronto, I had two getting the top talent on their day off, the film
options: I could do the shoot the hard way and goes on without them. Like the shot of Dolph
wait for a lunch break, swoop in to the main set, Lundgren, this shot of Ben Kingsley was taken
and shoot for five minutes until they pulled the in a part of the set that wasnt otherwise in use
plug on me. Or, I could do it the easy way and thatday.
find my own spot off set where Id be out of the When shooting on set, introduce yourself
way, avoid all the commotion, and still get great to the talent and tell them exactly what youre
shots. Guess which option I chose. there to do. Even if your name is on the call
The level of detail on movie sets is truly amaz- sheet, theyll want to know who the hell you are.
ing, even in areas that are onscreen for no more Plus, introducing yourself gives them the chance
than a second or two. For this reason, youll to say, love your work, even if theyve never
always find plenty of great spots to shootthe seenit.
key is to find spots that are out of the way. Be extra nice to the gaffers and grips. Although
Movie unit photographers shoot on set during its best to bring everything you could possibly
the course of the actual scenes, but photogra- need, keeping on the good side of the crew can
phers hired to do the setup shots for posters and save your butt if youre in a jam because youre
publicity are usually expected to find their own short a couple of sandbags.
Sometimes all the stars align in your favor. I the stars. Of course, when you have only a few
happened to be watching Grard Depardieu in minutes to get it right, it helps if your subject is
Cyrano when I got a call from Entertainment Cindy Crawford.
Weekly to fly to Costa Rica to shoot him on the Entertainment Weekly wanted shots of Cindy
set of Ridley Scotts Columbus biopic 1492. Dur- with the costume designer from Fair Game to
ing the call, the photo editor asked if Id seen any have the feel of reportage. The films publicist
of Depardieus movies. Well, I said, as a matter warned Id only have a couple of minutes with
of fact. them but told me I could get there as early as I
We had three days to shoot while the cam- wanted to scout and set up.
eras rolled. But like baseball, a ten-hour day on a I looked for a spot far enough from the crew
movie set usually results in a minute and a half of that I wouldnt have to move if they reversed
onscreen action footage. The good news is that if their anglesomething movie crews do between
you keep an eye out for those special moments, virtually every shot. Yet I still wanted it to have
there will be plenty to choose from. the feel of the movies location and be easy for
Our opening shot came during one of those the talent to get to. I found the ideal spot in the
moments between takes. As Depardieu relaxed mangroves halfway between Cindys trailer and
while waiting out a break, some of the extras sur- the set. On her way to the set, Cindy walked in,
rounded him on the beach. It seemed Columbus shot 30 frames, and we had our shot.
was being discovered by the Americas. My only question for the Academy is how
When a magazine sends you to shoot on a can Cindy Crawford in a wet t-shirt not be Oscar
movie set, dont expect to get a lot of time with worthy?
Never leave a shoot without at least one shot that makes you
proud. Although some magazine assignments can be very open-
ended, others read like a shopping list. You always have to photo-
graph whats on the list, but you shouldnt overlook a great shot
just because the magazine didnt think to ask for it.
My Sports Illustrated shoot of boxer Christy Martin read like a
shopping list that went on forever. We started early in the day and
had knocked out the sixteenth and final requested shot when I had
the idea for one more that I wanted to take for me.
SHOOT A CONCEPT81
WEIRD SCIENCE
DR. GREGORY SCHULTZ
Photographed in Gainesville, Florida for TIME
When I was a kid, I used to love staying up late to watch old sci-fi
horror flicks like Frankenstein and The Fly, so my imagination goes
wild whenever I get a chance to shoot in a lab and use all the cool
props to create a bit of science fiction of my own.
A researcher at the University of Florida, Dr. Schultz, had just
been awarded a patent for his research into chemically bonding
microbicidal coating into fabrics for use in antifungal and microbi-
cidal socks, underwear, and wound dressings used by U.S. soldiers.
In other words, he created underwear that would keep our soldiers
smelling fresh as a daisy after a hot, sweaty day in the trenches.
My idea was to photograph the good doctor standing next to a
soldier stripped to his undies. It was an easy sell. In fact, Dr. Schultz
offered to help track down a model by reaching out to the cam-
pus ROTC. With only tighty whities at hand, he was even willing to
get a pair dyed for the shoot; you cant ask for more cooperation
thanthat.
Telling the story often comes down to getting all the elements in
the photo rightright down to the color of the skivvies.
Cross-processing:The look
achieved when processing E-6
color transparency film in C-41
color negative chemicals or vice
versa. Now when you see those
presets in Photoshop, youll know
where they came from.
FLY SCI
Photographed in Gainesville for Eating Well
Grid spot:Honeycomb-shaped
metal grids that fit in front of the
reflector. The grids act like a bunch
of tiny snoots that focus the light
into a spot. They are described
by the spread of the light, which
means a 5degree grid focuses the
light into a spot half the size of a 10
degree spot.
LICE INSPECTOR
Photographed in Ft. Lauderdale for TIME
FLY SCI85
COVER A GRAND ENTRANCE
GREG NORMAN
Photographed in Orlando for Golf Digest
Dont overlook the possibility that your best shot might just hap-
pen the moment your subject arrives: Make sure youre ready to
capture it.
Arriving by helicopter is natural for pro golfer Greg Norman,
but to most of us, its a pretty big deal. As I was preparing for a
two-day shoot following Norman around Orlando, one item on his
schedule jumped out at me: Arrival: Helicopter 11 a.m.
252index
Diggs, Taye, 11 Florida Trend, 34, 163 holy men of Nepal, 25, 216217
digital darkroom, 208209 food stylist, 92 home shoots, 18
digital formats, 230 Forbes, 49, 151, 174, 176 Howard, Ryan, 235
digital tech, 92 Foxx, Jamie, 118119 Hurrell, George, ix, 178, 232
DMX, 15 French flag, 174 Hurricane defense backs, 207
Dockett, Darnell, 188189 Fresnel lens, 154 Huston, John, 249
documentary portraits, 73 friends/neighbors, 245 hypersaturated color, 212213
dodging and burning, 216217
Donovan, Jeffrey, 3233
Draft magazine, 36, 41, 52, 101
G I
dramatic light, 178 Gallagher, Peter, 1011 Iagorashvili, Vaho, 5455
Dre, 186187 Gates, Bill, 9091 Ingenue, Inga, 170171
Dread, Johnny, 233 Gatorade inventors, 200201
gear bag, 228229
DSLR cameras, 236
Gear magazine, 138
J
Dunn, Mary, ix, 30 Jackson, Samuel L., 242
Dunn, Warrick, 144145 gels, 78, 178, 227
Gibson, Ted, 126 Jobs, Steve, 90
dusk light, 184 jockeys, 7273
duvetyne, 158 gobos, 172, 227
Golf Digest, 87, 136 Juanes, 43
Golf Magazine, 57 Judd, Wynonna, 178179
E Gordon, Jeff, 2627
Eating Well, 84 GQ magazine, 15 K
Edison, Thomas, 181 Graflex Super D camera, 136, Kartheiser, Vincent, 4041
Elinchrom Octabank, 116, 227 158, 233 Kelvin scale, 181
emotion, genuine, 138 Grammer, Kelsey, 128129 key light, 182
Enriquez, Luis, 120121 Greenspan, Alan, 14 King, Don, 150151
Entertainment Weekly, ix, 30, Grenier, Adrian, 152, 245 Kingsley, Ben, 74, 75
77, 104, 149, 164, 181, 210, 211, grid spots, 85, 227 Klein, Russ, 7071
232 groomer, 92 Kohlem, Horst, 220221
equipment bag, 228229 group portraits, 196207 Krakowski, Jane, 172173
Erwitt, Elliott, viii, ix, x Guetta, David, 5859 Kucher, Matt, 136
ESPN The Magazine, 23, 54, 81, Guido, Marchese, 42
158, 235
Esquire, 68 L
Estefan, Gloria & Emilio,
H LActualit magazine, 60
154155 Hackman, Gene, 4647 LaLanne, Jack & Elaine, 2021
Evans, Dixie, ix hair stylist, 92 Landau, Martin, 184
eyes in portraits, 126 Hamilton, George, 93 Lara, Erislandy, 190191
hands in portraits, 131 large format cameras, 232233
Hantuchov, Daniela, 9697 Latina magazine, 43
F hard light, 170 laughter, 11
facial expressions, 122, 156 Hardaway, Tim, 8081 Lecavalier, Vincent, 6061
Fairbanks, Douglas, 36 Hathaway, Anne, 126127, 240, Leibovitz, Annie, 250
fast glass, 242, 243 241, 250 Lensbabies, 243
fill, negative, 172 Hell Camino, 6263 lenses
film formats, 230 Henson, Taraji P., 11 assignment on using, 244
Fitness Swimmer, 202 Hiassen, Carl, 211 portrait photography,
flags, 174, 227 hidden moments, 125 240243
flash Hill, Dul, 89 wide-angle, 62
ring, 176 Hines, Gregory, 8 Life magazine, 246
strobe, 151, 168, 226 Hogan family, 196197 Life Through a Lens
See also light and lighting Holland, Charlie, 204 documentary, 250
Flores, Rosario, 136137 Hollman, Ellen, 122123
index253
light and lighting, 164195 mirrorless compact cameras, plastic cameras, 239, 245
available, 187, 194 237 Platt, Oliver, 156
backlight, 174, 192193 modifiers, 227 Players Club magazine, 96
blending, 146, 182, 184 moments, capturing, 26 Plum Miami magazine, 194
continuous, 226 mood lighting, 188 Poder magazine, 28
dramatic, 178 Morgan, Tracy, 238 point of view, 4663, 245
dusk, 184 Morro Bay Rocks, 2021 point-n-shoot cameras, 238
hard, 170 Mos Def, 243 Polaroids, 68, 158, 208, 210211
key, 182 movie set shots, 74, 77 portrait lenses, 240243
mood, 188 Ms. Redd, 236 posing subjects, 122141
northlight, 191 Munson, Thurman, 246 Premiere magazine, 116, 184
ring flash, 176 Murray, Keith, 112113 Pressel, Morgan, 192193
soft, 172 Private Experience: Elliott
strobe, 151, 168, 226 Erwitt, viii
sun on a stick, 168
N Pro Magazine, 110
tungsten, 181 negative fill, 172 producer, 92
light modifiers, 227 Nepalese holy men, 25, production assistant, 92
lighting gear, 224227 216217 prop stylist, 92
assignment on using, New York Magazine, 98 publication rights, 251
244245 New York Times, 146, 246 Pulitzer Prize, 246, 249
used in this book, 226227 Newman, Arnold, 34
limo driver, 92 Newsweek, 12, 56, 132
Lindquist, Kayla, x Nicholson, Jack, 224 Q
Live magazine, 204 Nicklaus, Jack, 249 Quaid, Randy, 3639
Liz-Lepiorz, Dietmar, 64, 215 Nielsen, Leslie, 100101
Norman, Greg, 8687
location scout, 92
northlight, 191
R
location van/driver, 92 Rajasthani, 237
locations/places, 1845 nudist golfers, 138139, 212213,
234 RAW images, 214215
looks, creating, 208223 React magazine, 12
Lopez, Jennifer, 245 reality lighting, 191
Luna, Diego, 2829 O red props, 199
Lundgren, Dolph, 74 Obama bling, 152153 Reed, Ed, 207
Observer, The, 58 relaxed subjects, 132
M Ocean Drive, 26, 42, 51, 104, re-licensing fees, 67, 251
Macy, William H., 156157 106, 120, 134, 136, 142, 233 retoucher, 92
magazine assignments, 67, 251 Octabank, 116, 227 Rice, Darius, 2223
magic hour, 184 Olympics (1984), 246247 Rice, Simeon, 158161
Malnik, Shareef, 194195 ONeal, Shaquille, 118119 Ridinger, Loren & J.R., 5051
Mann, Ron, 247 Orange County Register, 73, 89, ring flash, 176, 226
Mara, Kate, 8 246, 249 Robie, Kevin, 52, 6263
Margolis, Cindy, 164165 Rodriguez, Robert, 184185
Rolling Stone, 178
marketing yourself, 251 P Ross, Rick, 186187
Marseu, Miriam, x Parade magazine, 24, 172
Martin, Billy, 246 Rummell, Peter, 4445
peer pressure, 128
Martin, Christy, 7879 Penn, Irving, ix, 232
Mauer, Joe, 192193 People, 34, 94, 132, 196 S
Mayor, Mireya, 166169 People en Espanol, 18, 154 Santiago, Danny, 26
Mayorga, Ricardo, 151 photo assistants, 92 Sanz, Alejandro, 1819
Meat Loaf, 131 Pierce, David Hyde, 128 Satans Angel, 222223
medium format cameras, Pierre, Juan, 106107 Schiff, Richard, 1011
234235 places/locations, 1845 Schultz, Gregory, 8283
Mina di Sospiro, Guido, 42
254index
Schulz, Axel, 191 U
seamless background paper, 28 U.S. News, 14
Seneca, Lucius Annaeus, 110 US Weekly, 33
Shnaider, Alex, 176177 USA Weekend, 118, 145
silks, 34, 227
Smits, Jimmy, 218219
soft light, 172 V
Sony vantage point, 4663, 245
Art & Soul collaboration, 5, Vega, Herman, 154
122, 156 Venice carnival, 239
camera gear, 220, 228, 231, V-flats, 172
237, 238, 242 Vibe magazine, 187
The Source magazine, 112 Villegas, Camilo, 57
Sports Illustrated, x, 78, 138,
188, 200, 207, 212, 234
Stallone, Sylvester, 146147
W
star treatment, 16 Wade, Dwyane, 102103
Stiller, Ben, 132 Walken, Christopher, 180181
Storm, Tempest, 182183 walls, subjects against, 134
storytelling, 6489, 210211 wardrobe stylist, 92
strangers, shooting, 4, 245 Wayans, Marlon, 245
strobes, 151, 168 Wearstler, Kelly, 134135
daylight blended with, 182 Weisman, Nancy, 23, 81
dusk light blended with, 184 Weston, Edward, 136
used in this book, 226 Whitfield, Lynn, 241
stylists, 92, 109 wide-angle lens, 62
sunlight Williams, Serena, 1213, 9495
backlit shots and, 174, Williams, Venus, 12
192193
blending strobes with, 182 Y
creating artificial, 168 Yune, Rick, 156, 242
See also light and lighting
symbolic elements, 152
T
Tellum, Arn, 56
TIME magazine, 12, 64, 67, 82,
85, 131, 193, 215
triathlete fashion, 202203
Trump, Donald, 9899
TTL metering, 182
tungsten light, 181
turbocombustor technology,
162163
index255