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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
THE
NETHERLANDS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
THE
NETHERLANDS
Main Contributor Gerard M L Harmans
CONTENTS
Produced by Van Reemst Uitgeverij/Unieboek bv
How to use
Main Contributor Gerard M.L. Harmans this Guide 6
Design Studio Putto, De Rijp
Art Editor Dick Polman
Editorial (Dutch original) de Redactie, boekverzorgers, Amsterdam
Photographers
Max Alexander, Anwb Audiovisuele Dienst
(Thijs Tuurenhout), George Burggraaff, Jurjen Drenth,
Rubert Horrox, Kim Sayer, Herman Scholten
Illustrators
Hilbert Bolland, Jan Egas, Gieb van Enckevort,
Nick Gibbard, Mark Jurrins, Maltings Partnership,
Derrick Stone, Khoobie Verwer, Martin Woodward
Cartography
Jane Hanson, Armand Haye, Lovell Johns Limited
(Oxford, UK), Phil Rose, Jennifer Skelley, Peter de Vries
Picture Researcher Harry Bunk

Zeelands coat of arms
Production Sarah Dodd
English-language adaptation produced by

International Book Productions Inc.,
Introducing the
25a Morrow Ave, Toronto, Ontario M6R 2H9, Canada Netherlands
Managing Editor Barbara Hopkinson
Editor Judy Phillips Discovering the
DTP Designers Dietmar Kokemohr, Sean Gaherty
Netherlands 10
Printed and bound in China
First American edition 2003 Putting the Netherlands

17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 on the Map 18
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 A Portrait of the
Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2008, 2011, 2014, 2017 Netherlands 20
Copyright 2003, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
The Netherlands
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
Through the Year 36
photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the
copyright owner and the above publisher of the book.
The History of
A CIP catalogue record is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542-1554
the Netherlands 42
ISBN 978-1-46546-029-5
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with

European usage; Ie the first floor is the floor above ground level.
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665)
Front cover main image: Schermerhorn, North Holland, Netherlands by Johannes Vermeer (see p227)
Tulip fields with a windmill in the background
Amsterdam
Introducing
Amsterdam 64
Oude Zijde 74
Nieuwe Zijde 86
Canal Ring 98
Museum Quarter 120

The 15th-century Koppelpoort in Amersfoort
Outside the
Centre 134 West Frisian Islands 268 Limburg 370
Shopping and Groningen 280 Travellers Needs

Entertainment 148
Friesland 294 Where to Stay 388
Street Finder 154
Drenthe 306 Where to Eat and
Drink 402
Overijssel 316
Shopping 416
Flevoland 326
Entertainment 422
Gelderland 334
Survival Guide
Southern
Thialf fans (see p304) Netherlands Practical Information 432
Western Introducing Travel Information 442

Netherlands the Southern
Netherlands 350 Index 450
Introducing
the Western North Brabant 358 Phrase Book 471
Netherlands 164
Road Map of the
North Holland 174 Netherlands
back endpaper
Utrecht 196
South Holland 212
Zeeland 246
Northern and
Eastern
Netherlands
Introducing the
Northern and Eastern The imposing Sint Jan
Netherlands 260 in s-Hertogenbosch
(see pp3645)
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from from architecture to tulip growing. They
your stay in the Netherlands. The first are accompanied by detailed and helpful
section, Introducing the Netherlands, places illustrations. Travellers Needs gives
the country on the map and puts it in its specifics on where to stay and where to
historical and cultural context. Chapters on eat and drink, while the Survival Guide
the provinces and the capital, Amsterdam, contains practical information on
describe the most important sights and everything from the public transport
places of interest. Features cover topics system to personal safety.
Amsterdam
Amsterdam is divided OUDE ZIJDE
The eastern half of Amsterdam became
known as the Oude Zijde (Old Side).
of Jewish refugees from Portugal. The oldest
of the four synagogues, now containing the
AMSTERDAM 75
1 Area Map
This map is numbered
to show the most important
into five tourist areas. The Originally it occupied a narrow strip on
the east bank of the Amstel river, running
Joods Historisch Museum, dates from this
period. These were central to Jewish life
between Damrak and the Oudezijds in the city for centuries. During the Golden
attractions. They are also given
corresponding chapters all
Voorburgwal. At its heart was built the Oude Age (see pp545), the Oude Zijde was an
Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the important commercial centre. Boats could
in the Street Finder section

early 15th century the Oude Zijde began an sail up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt,
eastward expansion that continued into the where goods were weighed at the Waag
begin with a list of numbered 1600s. This growth was fuelled by an influx before being sold at the market.
Sights at a Glance
on pages 15463.
sights and places of interest, Historic Buildings and
Monuments
2 Waag
5 Agnietenkapel
Opera Houses
q Stadhuis-Muziektheater
Museums
t Portugees-Isralitische Synagoge
a Oude Kerk pp845
Streets and Markets
which are plotted on the Area

4 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum 1 Red Light District
6 Oudemanhuispoort 3 Nieuwmarkt
0 Museum het Rembrandthuis
7 De Waalse Kerk w Waterlooplein
r Joods Historisch Museum
8 Trippenhuis p Zeedijk
y Pintohuis Churches and Synagogues
Map. The information for each

u Montelbaanstoren 9 Zuiderkerk
i Scheepvaarthuis e Mozes en Aronkerk
o Schreierstoren
sight follows this numerical DE

ZIJD
S KO
LK A locator map places the
district in the context of
OU
order, making sights easy to

PR I
D E
See also Street Finder

NS
DE
KROM
K A
maps 2 & 5
KA
KO
S E
ME
NIE RTE
SE
the rest of the city.

K
HE
ZEL
IJ
E R
ND
ER
locate within the chapter.

OUDE
ED
KK
RI
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Sights at a Glance groups

ND
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OO
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A recommended route
DE E
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the sights by category:

BU
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covers the most interesting

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historical buildings and

KS
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GW
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streets in the area.

ES VA TR
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GW
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WA TR RS
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BU
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EN
STR
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NB
NB
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monuments, streets,
W R STR
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DO KADE ER
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Am STR
ste
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squares and gardens,

AM
ER
E
UW
AT
NI E
W
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
museums and churches. 110

The impressive Oude Kerk, Amsterdams oldest building
AMSTERDAM
For map symbols see back flap
CANAL RING 111
Street-by-Street: Around the Jordaan 4 Huis met de Hoofden

The name House with the Heads CANAL
RING
West of the Grachtengordel, the Jordaan Egelantiersgracht is refers to the six Classical busts at the
still retains a network of narrow, a charming tree-lined entrance, depicting Apollo, Ceres,
NIEUWE
Jordaan canal over- Mars, Minerva, Bacchus and Diana. ZIJDE
characterful streets and delightful canals. looked by an interesting OUDE
ZIJDE
Among the 17th-century workers houses mixture of old and
All pages about are dozens of quirky shops, which are well
worth a browse, selling anything from
designer clothes to old sinks, and lively
new architecture. Its
numerous bridges
provide pretty views.
Amsterdam are
Locator Map
brown cafs and bars, which spill onto See Street Finder map 1
T
the pavements in summer. A stroll along

CH
the Grachtengordel provides a glimpse

RA
marked in red. into some of the citys grandest canal

G
N
houses, including the Bartolotti House.

SE
IN
PR
T
CH
RA
SG
2
ER
TI
T
AN
CH
Street-by-Street Map
EL
EG
RA
SG
ER
This map gives a

IZ
KE
detailed summary of the

T
The quiet The Eerste Hollandsche

H
C
Bloemgracht Levensverzekeringsbank
A
heart of the five main

canal was once a building, with its fine
R
G
centre for makers faade, is a rare example

N
T of Dutch Art Nouveau,

of paint and dye. CH
E
RA
MG designed by Gerrit van
S
L E
OE
CH
I N
BL L I Arkel in 1905.
tourist areas of the city.

E G
R
RA
R A
P
C H
SG
T
ER
IZ
KE
Key
2. Homomonument
Recommended route The pink triangle used
to brand homosexual
men during World War II
3 . Westerkerk 1 . Anne Frank Huis influenced the design
Hendrick de Keysers church is the For two years, the Frank family of this memorial to
0 metres 75
site of Rembrandts unmarked and four others lived in a small oppressed gay men and
grave and was the setting for upstairs apartment that was 0 yards 75 women everywhere.
the wedding of Queen Beatrix hidden behind a revolving It was unveiled in
and Prince Claus in 1966. bookcase (see pp11213). September 1987.
144 AMSTERDAM OUTSIDE THE CENTRE
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
145
q Frankendael r Heineken
Middenweg 72. Map 6 F5. v 9. Experience
@ 41, 65, 101, 136, 152, 157.
Stadhouderskade 78. Map 4 F3.
Open dawndusk. Tel 020-523 9222. v 7, 10, 16,
During the early part of the 18th
century, many of Amsterdams
wealthier citizens built country
24. Open 11am5:30pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 =
Under 18s with parents only.
Stars indicate sights that
should not be missed.
heinekenexperience.com
retreats south of Plantage
Middenlaan on reclaimed land This historic 1867 building once
called the Watergraafsmeer. housed the Heineken brewery.
The elegant Louis XIV-style Now it offers an exhibition of
Frankendael is the last survivor. how beer is made, culminating
The house is closed to the in a tasting room where you can
public; the best views of the have a drink.
ornamented faade are from Interior of Amsterdam RAI with a trade fair in progress
Middenweg. This is also the best
t Huizenblok De
place to view the fountain made y Verzetsmuseum deportation of the Jews, are
in 1714 by Ignatius van Logteren Dageraad Plantage Kerklaan 61. Map 6 D2.
brought to life by exhibits
(16851732), a sculptor who, Pieter Lodewijk Takstraat. v 4, 12, 25. Tel 020-6202535. v 9, 14. showing where the refugees
along with his son, played a Closed to the public. Open 10am5pm TueFri, hid and how food for them was
central role in the development 11am5pm Mon & Sat. Closed 1 Jan, smuggled in.
of Amsterdams Louis XIV style. One of the best examples 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - 0
The rear gardens have been of Amsterdam School verzetsmuseum.org
restored and are open to the architecture (see pp1467), u Amsterdam RAI
public. Behind the house is a De Dageraad (the Dawn) Previously based in a former Europaplein. Tel 0900-2678373.
small formal garden, and housing project was devel- synagogue in Nieuw Zuid (New v 4. q RAI. @ 62, 65.
3
beyond lies a landscaped, oped for poorer families South), now at a site in the Open depending on exhibition.
English-style garden. There are The ornamental faade of Frankendael House following the Housing Act Plantage, the Resistance Museum
Detailed Information
Enquiries: 8:30am5:30pm MonFri.
also allotment gardens. The of 1901, by which the city holds a fascinating collection of & ^ 7 with assistance. rai.nl
coach house is now home to decorated with symbols of America. Gerrit Schoutens council condemned slums memorabilia recording the
caf-restaurant Merkelbach. imperialism, such as stone 1819 diorama made of papier- and rethought housing policy. activities of Dutch Resistance Amsterdam RAI is one of the
friezes of peasants planting rice. mch and painted wood Architect HP Berlage drew up workers in World War II. It was set largest exhibition and con-
Upon completion of the
buildings renovation in 1978,
the Royal Tropical Institute
opened a museum, with a huge
depicts life in Suriname.
e Hermitage
plans for the suburbs, aiming
to integrate rich and poor by
juxtaposing their housing.
After Berlages death, Piet
up by former members of the
Resistance and focuses on the
courage of the 25,000 people
actively involved in the move-
ference centres in the country. It
hosts over 1,000 events annually,
from cabaret to horse shows
and trade fairs. The first
All main attractions are
central hall and three levels of
galleries. The institutes aims are
to study and to help improve
the lives of the indigenous
Amsterdam
Amstel 51. Map 8 E5. Tel 0900 437
648243. v 4, 9, 14. q Waterlooplein.
Kramer and Michel de Klerk
adopted his ideas. From
191823, they designed this
complex for the De Dageraad
ment. False documents, weap-
onry, film clips, photographs and
equipment are on display.
By 1945 there were 300,000
Amsterdam trade fair was a
bicycle exhibition in 1893.
Subsequent shows included
cars and became an annual
described individually,
including their addresses,
4 Muziektheater. Open 10am5pm
Ignatius van Logterens fountain in the populations of the tropics. The daily (to 8pm Wed). & free for under housing association. people in hiding in the Nether- event known as the RAI (Rijwiel
grounds of the Frankendael displays focus on development 16s. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. 7 lands, including Jews and Automobiel Industrie).
issues regarding daily life, 0 - = hermitage.nl anti-Nazi Dutch. Subsequent
education and colonization. events organized by the
opening hours and other

i De Pijp/Albert
w Tropenmuseum The impressive mask collection In the early 1990s the State Resistance, like the February
Linnaeusstraat 2. Map 6 E3.
includes feathered fertility Hermitage Museum in Strike against the Cuypmarkt
Tropenmuseum: Tel 020-5688200. masks from Zaire and carved St Petersburg, Russia, chose Albert Cuypstraat. Map 5 A5. v 4, 16,
wooden masks from Central
practical information. Keys to

Open 10am5pm daily, 10am3pm Amsterdam as the ideal city 24. Open 9:30am5pm MonSat.
5 Dec, 24 Dec, 31 Dec. in which to open a satellite
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 5 May, 25 Dec. museum displaying temporary The Albert Cuypmarkt, part of
tropenmuseum.nl exhibitions drawn from the the De Pijp area, began trading
the symbols used are on the

Tropenmuseum Junior: Tel 020- Hermitages rich collection. It in 1904 and is still going strong,
5688233. Open for special is housed in the former with over 325 stalls selling
programmes in Dutch language only Amstelhof a shelter for poor flowers, clothing, poultry, fish
(phone or see website). Closed As elderly women and opened in and other items. De Pijp, once a
Tropenmuseum. v 9, 14. & 7 8
back flap of this book.

2004 with a spectacular poor working class sector, has
0 - = kindermuseum.nl exhibition of fine Greek gold turned into one of the citys
jewellery from the 6th to the liveliest areas. The rest of the area
Built to house the Dutch 2nd century BC. The museum, has gentrified and now features
Colonial Institute, this vast which has an auditorium and a designer bars, restaurants and
complex was finished in childrens wing, also has a fine trendy shops, while Sarphatipark
1926 by architects MA and Balinese tiger protector mask and model at restaurant, Neva, which is open is a haven of tranquility amidst
J Nieuwkerken. The exterior is the Tropenmuseum to non-visitors. Imposing corner block of De Dageraad public housing the hustle and bustle.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp396397 and pp406409
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
1 Introduction
The Netherlands
NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 335
GELDERLAND The scenery, history

Gelderland is The Netherlands largest province. Its name
derives from the 11th-century county of Gelre, which and character of each Area by Area
was linked with the town of Geldern, just over the
border in Germany. The town was the fiefdom of Gerard
de Rossige, whose grandson Gerard II of Wassenberg
pronounced himself Count of Gelre in 1104.
province are outlined The Netherlands is divided into 12
Succeeding counts skilfully expanded
their territory to include the Veluwe region
that welcome visitors throughout the
province. In more recent times, the region,
here, showing how provinces. Each of these provinces,
to the north, the Betuwe in the southwest and especially the strategically located
the area has changed
together with Amsterdam and the
and the county of Zutphen (see p345). towns of Arnhem and Nijmegen, saw
When in 1248 the imperial town of Nijmegen heavy fighting towards the end of World
was annexed, Gelre became a power to
be reckoned with. A number of its towns
War II. The heroic action at Arnhem is
remembered in the towns Airborne through the centuries,
joined the Hanseatic League, and in 1339
the county was promoted to a duchy by
the German emperor. The increasing
Museum, while the museum in Nijmegen
recalls this towns long history from
pre-Roman times to the tyranny of the and what it has to offer Wadden Islands, are dealt with in
separate chapters. The most inter
power of the Habsburgs threatened the Holy Roman Empire.
independence of the Gelders, eventually
leading to the duke having to cede the
territory in 1543 to Charles V. Gelderland
While visitors can enjoy many modern
attractions, perhaps Gelderlands greatest
asset is its contrasting natural scenery,
todays visitor.
thus became part of the Netherlands.
This colourful history is manifest
today in the number of medieval buildings,
which ranges from heaths and woodlands
in the north to the beautiful Betuwe river
valley and the pretty agricultural region
esting towns, villages and places are
churches, castles and fortified towns of the Achterhoek.
shown on the Regional Map.
296 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS FRIESLAND 297
Exploring Friesland
Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
Lauwersoog
boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular
Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by Anjum
undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with Holwerd
Lauwers
pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands Meer
and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the The sea dyke at Wierum Ferwerd
provinces southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland DOKKUM

and drifting sands, are more reminiscent of Drenthe.
A 17th-century granary near Winterswijk
Damwoude Kollum
St. Annaparochie Ee
View of the old Dutch city of Nijmegen
er
Dokkum
Sights at a Glance Stiens
The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
1 Leeuwarden
Veenwouden
Buitenpost highest in Friesland
2 Dokkum
3 Franeker Sexbierum Menaldum
4 Harlingen
5 Bolsward LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
FRANEKER Dronrijp
6 Workum Bergum
Meer 0 kilometres 10
Surhuisterveen
7 Hindeloopen
HARLINGEN 0 miles 5
a al
8 Gaasterland
2 an
9 Sloten tK
Regional Map
ie
0 Sneek Earnewld
r
rg
EN
Ma
q Thialfstadion VEN
Wieuwerd
DE
es
w Oude Venen Wommels
OU
ns
Drachten
Pri
e Beetsterzwaag
This map shows the r Appelscha
Makkum
BOLSWARD
Grou
FRIESLAND
BEETSTERZWAAG
main roads and SNEEK Akkrum

Donkerbroek
the main tourist

Gorredijk
Oosterwolde
WORKUM Joure
attractions of an area,
APPELSCHA
Heerenveen
HINDELOOPEN ssen
e THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop
Flu
Koudum Sloter
and also gives useful

Meer
The Noorderhaven in Harlingen Balk SLOTEN Tjeukemeer
Stavoren Noordwolde
Wolvega Key
ND
RLA
information about STE

Rijsterbos Motorway
GAA
Getting Around Oudemirdum Lemmer Major road
Friesland is convenient and easy to get to. Minor road
It is crossed by the A7 (eastwest) and the
driving and rail travel.

Scenic route
A32 (northsouth) motorways. Rail and
bus links are unproblematic. Most of the Main railway
larger villages and towns have a railway Minor railway
station; those which dont can be reached Regional border
by bus. From Harlingen, Holwerd or
Lauwersoog, the islands are only a short
boat ride away. The province also has a
good network of minor roads, walking
routes and cycle tracks.
Gabled houses along Het Diep in Sloten Picturesque Lindevallei at Wolvega, near Thialfstadion
For map symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and p413
Colour tabs are used to colour 276 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS 277
code each province a different E Oudheidkamer

Kogerstraat 1, Den Burg.
4 De Slufter
Road Map B2. * none. g @
Tel 0222-313135. Open 1 Apr31 Oct:
shade for easy reference.

Open all year, northern part closed
11am5pm MonFri, 24pm Sat.
1 Mar1 Sep. n Emmalaan 66, Den
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Whitsun, 25, 26 &
Burg (0222-314741).
31 Dec, public hols. &
The distinctive natural area of
De Slufter, consisting of salt
marshes covering 450 ha
(1,100 acres), is covered with
salt-loving plants such as sea
thrift and sea lavender, and is
3
an important breeding and
Detailed Information
feeding ground for many
Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now different bird species. De Slufter,
and the neighbouring De Muy,
1 Noorderhaaks Kogerstraat runs the length where spoonbills breed, are
Major sights and attractions are

Road Map B2. * none. n Emmalaan
of the Binnenburg. Located Beachcomber on Texel, the most populated magnificent rambling areas.
66, Den Burg (0222-314741). here is the Oudheidkamer, of the Frisian Islands
an antiquities museum set up
Noorderhaaks, also known as in a picturesque 16th-century 5 Den Hoorn
De Koog
described in detail in the order in
Razende Bol (raging ball), is a building, which used to be a 3
Road Map B2. * 450. g @
fairly bleak sandbank west of doss-house. Today it contains Road Map B2. * 1300. g @ n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg (0222-
Den Helder, 2.5 km (1.5 miles) period rooms, a display of n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg 314741). ( JulAug: Thu.
offshore. The sea currents cause artifacts and works of art (0222314741). ( JulAug: Tue.
which they are numbered on the

the island to shift eastwards in the attic, and a herb garden. Like Den Burg, Den Hoorn
towards Texel, after which Along and around the town In 1900, the former fishing stands on boulder clay. It has a
another raging ball appears at wall are several interesting settlement of De Koog consisted distinctive Hervormde kerk
the same point off Den Helder. shopping streets, such as the of a church (built in 1415) and (Protestant church) with a Salt-loving plants thriving at the waters edge, De Slufter
Regional Map. Within each entry is

The Dutch air force occasionally Weverstraat. A number of a few houses and farms. The first pointed steeple and church-
uses the island for target practice, excellent restaurants are to be tourist facility was the Badhotel, yard dating from 1425. This Unlike the other islands, Vlieland 19th-century paintings. The
but it is not off-limits for visitors. found on the Warmoesstraat. later the Hotel Prinses Juliana, exquisitely restored village has consists only of dunes, covered houses are separated by alleys
Rowing and swimming here with a garden overlooking been given protected status. with a purple haze of heather, known as gloppen. There is no
detailed information on buildings,

are risky because of the powerful Environs the sea. Today, De Koog has marram grass and sea buckthorn. room for cars here, not even for
currents. Adventure-seekers South of Den Burg is a sloping accommodation for 20,000 In the east, the woods planted those of the islanders.
regularly visit Noorderhaaks landscape with the 15 m (50 ft) visitors in hotels, pensions and 6 Vlieland just after 1900 provide a bit of The best way to explore
by boat or by helicopter, Hoge Berg (high mountain), camp sites. The centre of De Road Map C1. * 1,000. g
variety in the landscape. Vlieland is by bicycle; the island
parks, museums and other sights.

unable to resist this piece of which offers a great view of the Koog is the Dorpsstraat, n Havenweg 10, Oost-Vlieland In the south is the only village, can be covered in one day. From
total wilderness, where mirages island. For a good walk, follow which has cafs, snack bars (0562-451111). Oost-Vlieland, where the boat Oost-Vlieland, you can cycle
are common. the Skillepaadje from the tomb and discos. De Koogs attractions from Harlingen docks. Many old westwards along tracks through
of the Georgiers (resistance for visitors are the Calluna Vlieland is the smallest of the buildings line the main street. the dunes or along the Wadde-
fighters who died fighting the waterpark and EcoMare, Waddenzee Islands. In some One of them, the Tromps Huys nzee shoreline to the Posthuys
2 Den Burg Germans in 1945) to the fishing an information centre for places, less than one kilometre (1576), used to belong to the (post house), where in the 17th
Road Map B2. * 6,000. g @
village of Oudeschild, past the the Waddenzee and the (half a mile) separates the Amsterdam Admiralty. Today it century the overseas mail was
n Emmalaan 66 (0222-314741). peat walls and sheep pens. North Sea (see p427). Waddenzee and the North Sea. houses a museum with brought from Amsterdam to be
( Mon am; JulAug: Wed. loaded onto ships waiting to sail.
Further westwards is de Vliehors,
Den Burg is the main town of an area of natural interest which
Texel and situated right in its can be explored if no military
centre. Around 1300, the village exercises are taking place here.
was fortified by a circular Beware of getting stuck in the
rampart with a moat, which are soft drifting sand. This is also
Story boxes explore now marked by the Burgwal

and Parkstraat Streets. A sheep
market was once held in April
where the wealthy village of
West-Vlieland once stood. It was
consumed by the waves after it
specific topics.
and May at the Groeneplats, was abandoned in 1736.
Den Burgs main square, with the
present-day town hall. Today, a E Tromps Huys
sheep day is held on the first Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
Monday of September. Further Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
on, by the Binnenburg, or inner 10am5pm TueFri, 25pm Sat, 24pm
castle, stands the 15th-century Sun; outside school hols: 25pm Tue
Late Gothic Hervormde kerk Thu, 10am1pm Fri, 25pm Sat.
(Protestant church). The The Nederlands-Hervormde church in Den Burg (1481) The village hall in Oost-Vlieland Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &
250 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
For hotels and restaurants inthis region see pp3989 and p412
ZEELAND 251
1 Oosterschelde
Concrete Piers
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The piers were
Stormvloedkering made on the
artificial island of
Practical Information
Road Map A45. Deltapark
Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands Neeltje Jans and
Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
has been dominated by its peoples struggle against the then transported
Vrouwenpolder.
by special barges
sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland to their destination.
Open AprOct: 10am5:30pm
The Windsock daily; NovMar: 10am5pm Wed,
heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once When the windsock is full, a This mighty task
Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
Visitors Checklist gives

and for all was undertaken in earnest. Now the Dutch seem warning is sounded, and people attracted a great
to have minimized the threat of flooding by building are advised to avoid driving over deal of attention. Transport
the dams and bridges between @ 133.
dykes and dams and closing off tidal inlets, all of which
the islands. Vigilance saves lives.
practical information to
has had a major impact on the landscape.
The Delta Works

The Delta Works have had far-
reaching consequences for the
help you plan your visit.
landscape and environment. The
Zeeland islands, having been
joined to the mainland, are no
longer isolated.
Storms
Storms are a part of everyday life
in Zeeland: storms on the beach
or over the flat polders, storms Half-open Buttress Dam
which blow the cobwebs away
and storms which make you fear It took 13 years and 3.6 billion (two-thirds
for your life. of the cost of the Delta Works) to build the
Oosterscheldekering. After much deliberation,
the decision was made to keep open the
estuary and to preserve the salty estuary
habitat. A half-open multiple buttress dam
4
was built, with 62 sliding gates, which are
closed on average once a year during heavy
The Fateful Night of 1953
On the night of 31 January 1953,
an event considered impossible in
storms. This keeps the water salty and has
preserved the unique salt marshes and mud
flats of the Oosterschelde.
The Top Sights
These sights are described on
modern times occurred. A combination
of spring tides and storms breached KEY
the dykes and washed them away
1 Concrete piers bear the sea wall.
as loose sand. A total of 1,835 people
two or more pages. Cutaway

lost their lives. 2 The sliding gates are closed only
when the water is high.
3 A road has been built over
the dam.
Deltapark Neeltje Jans
illustrations and floor plans show

4 Ground protection prevents the
This attraction has been built on an artificial island, Neeltje Jans, on earth from being washed away.
which the piers for the Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering (storm
surge barrier) were assembled, then taken by special barges to their 5 The piers rest on
positions. Now that task is finished, the island is being used mainly for solid foundations.
recreational and informative
purposes. At the Deltapark
you can find out about the
Delta projects and about how
the most important buildings,
museums and other sights.
the barrier works. You can see
the barrier from the inside,
and then take a boat trip to Luctor et Emergo
view it from the outside. This Latin motto meaning
There is an aquarium here, I struggle and emerge The Terps
as well as a seal show; you victorious is on Zeelands Man-made mounds,
can also experience a coat of arms, which depicts such as these near Borssele,
simulated hurricane in the the Netherlands lion half in were built in the 11th and 12th
hurricane machine. Neeltje Jans, educating visitors about the sea the water. This was wholly centuries to protect farms and
appropriate for 1953. villages from the water.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp41112
INTRODUCING
THE
NETHERLANDS
Discovering the Netherlands 1017

Putting the Netherlands on
the Map 1819
A Portrait of the Netherlands 2035
The Netherlands Through
the Year 3641
The History of the
Netherlands 4263
10 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
DISCOVERING THE
NETHERLANDS
The following itineraries have been designed the more rural province of Friesland
to include as many of the countrys highlights and the islands that lie just offshore.
as possible, while keeping long-distance The third suggested itinerary is a circular tour
travel manageable. First come three two-day beginning and ending in Amsterdam, which
tours of the Netherlands most important takes in the quiet towns on the eastern side
cities: Amsterdam, The Hague and Utrecht. of the country. The fourth tour is a linear
Visitors can combine these into a single six- cycle route threading through the towns and
day tour by catching a train to the next city. countryside along the River IJssel; this last
Next come four, seven-day tours. The first of itinerary can also be followed by car. Pick,
these covers the principal cities in the south, combine and follow your favourite tours,
while the second ventures further north to or simply dip in and out and be inspired.
T
ES
W
A Week in the South Oost-
Vlieland
0 kilometres 20

See beautiful paintings
Visit the handsome Vlieland
displayed at Haarlems old houses of the 0 miles 20
Frans Hals Museum. Delfshaven, Rotterdams

Learn about the ancient earliest harbour.
culture of the Egyptians
See the superb stained-
at Rijksmuseum van glass windows in
Oudheden in Leiden. Goudas St Janskerk.

Admire the wonderful
Dont miss the Den Oever
blooms of the spectacular sight of
Keukenhof gardens 19 vintage windmills
near Leiden. at Kinderdijk.
NORTH
HOLLAND
North
Sea Hoorn
Alkmaar
Edam
Volendam
Marken
Haarlem
Amsterdam
Keukenhof
Leiden
UTRECHT
The Hague SOUTH
HOLLAND
Gouda
Delft Lek
Rotterdam
Kinderdijk
Keukenhof Gardens, Lisse Wa a l

Colourful blossoms at the Keukenhof flower gardens, Dordrecht
located near the small town of Lisse
in South Holland
View of Delft (1660) a masterpiece by Johannes Vermeer
DISCOVERING THE NETHERLANDS 11
A Week in the North and the Islands A Circular Tour from

Amsterdam

Explore the culture of
Relax in one of the
Learn about the strong
the Zuiderzee at the countrys prettiest seafaring traditions of the
Zuiderzeemuseum villages tiny Dutch at the pretty little
in Enkhuizen. Hindeloopen. village of Urk.

Drive along the 32-km
Cycle the quiet byways
Dont miss the Schokland
Afsluitdijk, built of the island of Vlieland. Museum, which showcases
between 1927 and
Visit the Groninger the remains of the former
1933, and enjoy the Museum, the finest art Zuiderzee island.
spectacular views. gallery in Groningen.
Take a boat ride among the
peaty canals of beautiful
Giethoorn.

Saunter the streets of the
NDS well-preserved historic town
ISLA
N Ameland of Elburg.
SIA
FRI Hollum Nes
Lauwersoog Pieterburen Uithuizen
See the Mondriaanhuis,
Terschelling
where Dutch painter Piet
West-Terschelling Holwerd
Mondriaan was born.
z ee Dokkum
d en GRONINGEN
ad
W
Leeuwarden Groningen
Harlingen
FRIESLAND
Sneek
Hindeloopen
IJs DRENTHE
se
lm
ee
r De Weerribben
Zuiderzeemuseum Giethoorn
Enkhuizen Vollenhove
Key
Urk
r Staphorst A Week in the South
m ee Schokland
k er Museum
A Week in the North and
ar the Islands
M Kampen
Ve c h t A Circular Tour from
Lelystad Zwolle
Amsterdam
FLEVOLAND Elburg OVERIJSSEL A Cycling Tour of the
I J s se l
River IJssel
e er
em
w
lu
Ve
Sallandse Heuvelrug
Deventer
GELDERLAND
Amersfoort
Krller-Mller
Zutphen A Cycling Tour of the River IJssel
Museum
National Park de Bronkhorst
Hoge Veluwe

Explore the heaths and
Enjoy the small-town
woods of the National charms of Zutphen
er R h i ne Arnhem Park de Hoge Veluwe and the medieval library
Low
by bicycle. at St Walburgskerk.
Wa
al

See the splendid
Wander the streets of
collection of Dutch art Zwolle, one of the
at the Krller-Mller countrys most
Museum near Arnhem. beguiling cities.
Two Days in
Amsterdam
Known as home to Anne
Frank and Van Gogh,
Amsterdam is brimming
with sights and beautiful
canals to explore.

Arriving Schiphol Airport
is a 20-minute train journey
from the city centre.
Amsterdam also has good
train connections with the
rest of Europe.
Brightly lit houses overlook the canal in the Jordaan, Amsterdam

Day 1
Morning Begin the tour in Dam features a fabulous collection of Two Days in
Square, a bustling open space Dutch paintings, most notably The Hague
at the heart of the city, and visit the wonderful Rembrandts.
the National Monument (p90), Then, proceed to the superb An important political
an evocative war memorial Van Gogh Museum (pp13031), centre since the 13th
erected in 1956. Then, pop into devoted to the greatest of all century, The Hague is
the Nieuwe Kerk (p90), one of Dutch painters. After all this a fascinating city with
Amsterdams most beautiful art, take a break at a local caf aristocratic charm.
Gothic buildings. Stop next at or go for a stroll amid the
Arriving The Hague has
the imposing Koninklijk Paleis greenery of the neighbouring
good train connections with
(pp923), built in the 17th Vondelpark (p124).
the rest of the Netherlands.
century as the Stadhuis (Town
The nearest airport is
Hall) when the city was at its Afternoon After lunch, visit the
Rotterdam, 21 km (13 miles)
richest. Afterwards, detour south citys third major museum, the
away, while Schiphol airport
to the Begijnhof (p91), a set of Stedelijk Museum (pp1323),
is 48 km (30 miles) away.
pretty medieval almshouses whose excellent collection of
grouped around a small green. contemporary art is housed in
a lavishly refurbished gallery. Or,
Afternoon Take a stroll along if museum fatigue is setting in, Day 1
the Singel, the first of the four venture out of the tourist zone Morning Stroll the streets of
canals that make up the to explore the maze-like streets The Hague (pp2223), pausing
Grachtengordel (p99), or of the Jordaan (pp110111), or on Lange Vijverberg for a
girdle of canals. With a string rest your legs on a canal boat panoramic view of the
of hump-backed bridges trip (p117). Binnenhof (p224), a long and
spanning olive-green canals, elegant series of high-gabled
this is Amsterdam at its most buildings that now house the
beautiful. Pop into the Dutch parliament. Venture into
Museum van Loon (p119) for the Binnenhof and take a
an insight into the life and guided tour of the Ridderzaal
times of the Dutch merchant (p224), the Hall of the Knights,
elite, and then head for which dates back to the 13th
Westerkerk (p114), with its century. Continue onto the
soaring spire and cavernous Mauritshuis (pp2267), an out-
interior. From there, slip along standing art gallery with a
the street to the citys most wonderful collection of Dutch
popular attraction, the Anne paintings, including several
Frank Huis (pp11213). exquisite paintings by
Johannes Vermeer.
Day 2
Morning Dedicate this day Afternoon Visit the Museum
to explorimg some of the Bredius (p224) to enjoy a
citys best museums. Expect connoisseurs collection of
to spend at least a couple of Dutch art. Wander along the
hours at the Rijksmuseum tree-lined Lange Voorhout,
(pp1269), Amsterdams A sculpture in the Begijnhof, a tranquil which is framed by handsome
principal art museum, which space away from the bustle of the city old mansions, one of which,
For practical information on travelling around the Netherlands, see pp43249
the Escher in Het Paleis

(p225), exhibits the startling
Two Days in Utrecht
compositions of the graphic
artist Maurits Escher. Then, Home to many superb
head north towards the museums, Utrecht is a lively
unusual Panorama Mesdag city with magnificent
(p228), where a massive canalside houses.
circular canvas depicts the
Arriving Served by Schiphol
beach at Scheveningen as it
airport, Utrecht also has good
was in the late 19th century.
road and train connections.
Apeldoorn is just 40 minutes
Day 2
by train and there are
Morning Spend the morning
departures every 2030
at the Gementeemuseum Den
minutes. There are regular
Haag (p228), whose vast
buses from Apeldoorn train
permanent collection includes
station to the Paleis Het Loo.
a wonderful display of Delft
pottery and an extravagant
collection of modern Dutch Imposing ceiling of the Gothic Domkerk
artists, with special reference to Day 1 in Utrecht
the austere Piet Mondriaan. Be Morning Begin your tour
sure to pop next door to the of Utrecht (pp2045) at the bars, cafs and restaurants
Fotomuseum (p228), which Domtoren (p206). At 112 m occupy the old cellars and street
has built up an international (368 ft), this is the highest bell level is one storey up. Follow
reputation for its temporary tower in the country and a the Oude Gracht south to the
exhibitions of photography. symbol of the city. The Museum Catharijneconvent
panoramic view from the tower (p206), which displays an excel
Afternoon If the weather is is worth the climb. Next, drop lent collection of medieval art
good, take the tram or cycle by the Domkerk (p206) with and religious sculpture. Push
through the woods to its fine Gothic stonework. ing on, walk to the Centraal
Scheveningen (p229), a Continue west to the Nationaal Museum (p206), noted for
popular seaside resort where Museum Speelklok (p207) its fine art dating from the
the main attraction is a sandy to explore its fascinating and 16th century onwards.
beach that stretches out as most unusual collection of
far as the eye can see. You can mechanical musical instru Day 2
also take your chances at the ments, from fairground organs Morning Dont miss the
casino, enjoy high tea at the to musical boxes. remarkable Rietveld
Kurhaus (p229), stroll along Schrderhuis (p208), one of
the pier and, finally, admire Afternoon Continue your tour the most influential pieces of
the outdoor sculptures of by walking along the prettiest modern architecture in Europe,
the Museum Beelden aan stretch of the Oude Gracht designed by Gerrit Rietveld, a
Zee (p229). (p204) near the Stadhuis, where leading member of the De Stijl
movement. Allow at least an
hour to explore the house. In
particular, look out for the
retractable, shapechanging
windows in the dining room.
Afternoon Take the train

from Utrecht to Apeldoorn
(p340), a modest country
town, on the outskirts of
which is the Paleis Het Loo
(pp3389), a lavish palace
built in the 17th century and
occupied by the Dutch royals
until the 1970s. Admire the
palaces magnificent dining
hall, gawp at the extravagant
bedroom of William III, enjoy
the paintings in the picture
gallery, and wander through
the lovely formal gardens to
Intricately designed gardens of the Palais Het Loo finish the tour.
A Week in the South

Arriving Start in Haarlem,
easily accessed from
Amsterdams Schiphol
airport.

Transport Most of this
itinerary can be completed
using local trains and buses,
but a car will give added
flexibility. The Kinderdijk
windmills are only accessible
by car or bicycle.
Day 1: Haarlem A row of windmills at Kinderdijk in Dordrecht

Explore the centre of Haarlem
(pp1867), one of the countrys Day 4: Delft with its fancily dressed porters.
prettiest towns, with a cluster Delft (pp23033) is a charming Be sure to drop by St Janskerk
of old and distinguished little town with an especially (p242), a distinguished Gothic
buildings framing the fine Grote Markt (main square), structure with a breathtakingly
expansive Grote Markt. Be with the Stadhuis at one end beautiful set of stainedglass
sure to visit the Grote Kerk and the splendid Nieuwe Kerk windows dating from the late
(p188), a huge and imposing (p232) at the other. Explore the 16th century.
structure with a magnificent towns network of narrow lanes
nave. Afterwards, admire the and visit both the Oude Kerk Day 7: Dordrecht
potpourri collections displayed (p232) and the Stedelijk Spend the morning exploring
at the Teylers Museum (p189) Museum Het Prinsenhof (p232), Dordrecht (p244), an ancient
and then head over to the where a hired assassin port that nudges up against
towns key attraction the murdered the heroic William of one of the busiest waterways
outstanding Frans Hals Orange the bullet holes can in the world. Highlights here
Museum (pp19091), which still be seen in the wall. include the ornate and rather
features the paintings of fanciful Grote Kerk (p244)
Golden Age artist Frans Hals. Day 5: Rotterdam and the Huis Simon van Gijn
Enjoy the big city feel of (p244), with its period rooms
Day 2: Leiden and Keukenhof Rotterdam (pp23441), a and magnificent Brussels
Start the day by strolling pulsating metropolis of lively tapestries. Venturing out of
through the lovely old streets bars, great restaurants and a Dordecht, cycle or drive over to
of Leiden (pp21819), where a bustling street life. Take a detour the Kinderdijk (p245), where no
maze of cobbled lanes to see the modernist archi fewer than 19 vintage windmills
conceals a string of excellent tecture of the famous cube line up along a canal, looking
attractions. These include houses or Kubus-Paalwoningen proudly out over the
the Rijksmuseum van (p235), stroll along the old city surrounding polders.
Oudheden (p221), which harbour of Delfshaven (p236)
houses an outstanding and take a trip up the Euromast
ancient Egyptian collection, (p236) for the panoramic view.
ranging from mummies to Finish the day at the outstand
temples. Look out also for the ing Museum Boijmans Van
sterling Gothic architecture of Beuningen (pp2389), which
St Pieterskerk (p221), the houses an internationally
handsome Korenbeursgrug famous collection of Dutch art.
(p219) and Leidens much
praised botanical gardens, the Day 6: Gouda
Hortus Botanicus (p220). In Enjoy the small town
the afternoon, catch the bus atmosphere of Gouda (pp2423)
or drive out of Leiden to the with its cobbled streets, slender
nearby Keukenhof (p217), the canals and handsome main
largest flower garden in the square, the Grote Markt, where
world, famed for its tulips. you can admire the magnificent
Stadhuis (p243). Try to visit
Day 3: The Hague on a Thursday morning in
Pick a day from the city itinerary the summertime to enjoy the Colourful buildings in the pretty town
on p12. towns famous cheese market of Haarlem
A Week in the North (p277), the smallest of the

and the Islands Waddenzee islands, whose sand
dunes stretch out along its

Arriving Head from northern shore. Take a hike or a
Amsterdam to Alkmaar. bike ride along one of the many

Transport Hoorn, Enkhuizen, trails, or hunker down in the
Leeuwarden, Harlingen and islands one and only village,
Groningen are easy to reach Oost-Vlieland (p277), where
by train, and there are there is an interesting museum,
regular daily ferries from the Tromps Huys (p277).
Harlingen to Vlieland,
Holwerd to Ameland, and Day 4: Terschelling
from Harlingen and Vlieland Take the ferry from Harlingen or
to Terschelling. However, to Vlieland to Terschelling (p278).
complete this itinerary, hiring The first port of call will be West-
a car is essential. Terschelling (p278), a lovely little
village that houses the Museum
t Behouden Huys (p278). Transporting cheeses at Alkmaar cheese
Day 1: Alkmaar Wander through the village, a market, North Holland
Heading north out of popular summer resort, and then
Amsterdam, stop at Alkmaar cycle out across the island, either old houses, and then push on to
(p185), whose charming old to the dunes and beaches of the Lauwersoog (p290), a tiny village
centre is encircled by olive-green north coast or to the woods and deep in the countryside, and
canals. On Friday mornings, the mud flats of the south. Uithuizen (p291), where you can
main square comes alive with the sign up for a guided walk across
towns famous cheese market. Day 5: Ameland the mud flats (an activity known
Afterwards, be sure to visit Hoorn Catch the ferry from Holwerd to as wadlopen in Dutch). Also visit
(p182), an old Zuiderzee seaport Ameland (p278) and arrive in Pieterburen for its Seal Sanctuary,
with a fine ensemble of old the village of Nes (p278). Here, the Zeehondencrche (p291).
buildings, as well as the Westfries choose between the mud flats,
Museum (p182). Moving along marshland and bird reserves of Day 7: Groningen
the coast, you soon reach the south coast and the sand Dont miss out on Groningen
Enkhuizen (p182), another dunes of the north, but be sure (pp2849), a bustling city flush
handsome former seaport and to visit tiny Hollum (p279), a with excellent restaurants and a
the home of the outstanding picturesque hamlet of old busy nightlife. Spend the morn-
Zuiderzeemuseum (pp18081). seafarers cottages and thatched ing exploring the city centre;
farmhouses fanning out from a highlights include the imposing
Day 2: Friesland delightful country church. Martinikerk (p286) and the
Drive north from Enkhuizen to delightful Prinsenhof Gardens
cross the Waddenzee via the Day 6: Dokkum to (p287). The big attraction,
Afsluitdijk (p168), thus reaching Pieterburen however, is the Groninger
the province of Friesland Head to Dokkum (p300), an Museum (pp2889), where a
(pp295305) at a point near the ancient town where the Christian wide-ranging art collection is
exquisitely pretty waterside missionary St Boniface met a housed in a splendid modern
hamlet of Hindeloopen (p302). grisly end. Explore the town building designed by Alessandro
Proceed northeast from here to centre with its pretty canals and Mendini and opened in 1994.
reach Sneek (p303), a relaxing
little village famous for its sailing
clubs, and Leeuwarden (p300), a
good-looking town well worth
an afternoons wanderings.
Admire the wonderful ceramic
collection at Het Princessehof
(p300), and allow some time for
the Fries Museum (p300) with
its displays on all things Frisian.
Day 3: Harlingen to Vlieland

Begin the day amid the
maritime atmosphere of
Harlingen (p301), an ancient
seaport where vintage sailing
boats crowd the harbour. Then,
catch the ferry over to Vlieland Spritsail barges in Sneek, Friesland
A Circular Tour Day 4: Vollenhove and

from Amsterdam Giethoorn
Traversing the polder landscape,

Duration Seven days if visitors soon reach minuscule
travelling by bike, consider Vollenhove (p321), once an
building in extra rest stops important seaport. Allow an hour
and extending to 10 days. to explore the village, and then

Arriving This tour starts and push on east to Giethoorn
ends in Amsterdam. (p322), one of the countrys most
unusual villages, with a string of

Transport The towns in
old thatched farmhouses dotting
this itinerary are readily
a network of peaty canals. Take a
accessible by train, but local
boat ride here; spare some time
buses do not run regularly,
to explore the unspoiled
so visitors will need a car to
wetlands of De Weerribben
travel to the villages. For the
(p321) conservation area. Boat travelling along the waterways of
energetic visitor, this tour
Giethoorn, Overijssel
can be done by bike.
Day 5: Staphorst to Zwolle
Take a detour south from Veluwemeer, the narrow
Giethoorn to Staphorst (p324), waterway separating the
Day 1: Marken to Volendam an old-fashioned village whose mainland from reclaimed polder
See the famous stilt houses of elongated main street is flanked lands. See the medieval town
Marken (p178), a tiny village by thatched farmhouses. Visit on gates, pop into the St
perched on an island in the Sunday morning when the locals Nicolaaskerk and drop by the
Markermeer. Learn more of the head off to church in traditional Gementeemuseum Elburg
islands heritage at the Marker costume (note: taking photos is (p340), where pride of place goes
Museum (p178), which occupies considered impolite). Continue to a fine collection of silverware,
six old island houses. Continue to Zwolle (p320), a distinguished once the property of the local
up the coast to Volendam city whose star-shaped fort- guild of sailors.
(p178), where a dyke still ifications encase a centre of
protects the village. narrow lanes, elegant squares Day 7: Amersfoort
and attractive old buildings. Visit Head southwest along the
Day 2: Edam and Enkhuizen the Grote Kerk (p320) for its Veluwemeer waterway towards
Edam (p178) is extremely pretty, splendid interior, the Stedelijk Amersfoort (p210), a medium-
its cluster of ancient houses Museum (p320) for its Golden sized town whose ancient centre
huddled around a network of Age period rooms, and the Paleis is still encircled by canals. Visit
narrow canals and swing bridges. aan de Blijmarkt (p320) for its the key attractions: the splendid
Allow an hour to explore Edam exhibitions of contemporary art. Koppelpoort, one of three
and then move on to Enkhuizen Last but not least, stroll along the surviving medieval gates; the
(p182), a handsome old seaport harbour, where vintage canal soaring Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren
with a splendid harbour in the boats are polished and scrubbed (the Tower of the Church of Our
lee of a mighty, defensive tower, to delightful effect. Lady); and the Mondriaanhuis
the Drommedaris (p182). Finish (p210), a museum in the former
the day at Enkhuizens excellent Day 6: Elburg home of artist Pier Mondriaan.
Zuiderzeemuseum (p180). Discover the gentle charms of Allow an hour or so to cover the
Elburg (p340), a former Zuiderzee 50 km (31 miles) back from
Day 3: Urk seaport that now sits beside the Amersfoort to Amsterdam.
Cross the Markerwaarddijk from
Enkhuizen to reach the outskirts
of Lelystad (p331), a modern
town whose main pull is the
replica 17th-century sailing ship
on the Bataviawerf (p331).
Pushing on, its a short haul to
Urk (p330), an intriguing little
place and one-time island fishing
village now attached to the
mainland. Grab a plate of seafood
before continuing on to the
delightful Schokland Museum
(p330). Just like Urk, Schokland
was once an island and the
remains of the old fishing village
are fascinating. The medieval gate of Koppelpoort in Amersfoort
A Cycling Tour of the

River IJssel

Duration Seven days.

Arriving Arnhem, at the
start of this itinerary, is easy
to reach by train, bus and
car, as is Kampen at the end
of the itinerary.

Transport To complete this
itinerary, hire a bike in
Arnhem or take one with
you on the train or by car.
Day 1: Arnhem Cycling trail in the National Park de Hoge Veluwe, Gelderland
Begin the tour with a stroll
through the centre of Arnhem a cluster of immaculate cottages. and very ornate weigh house,
(p344), a lively city that suffered Then, continue to Zutphen the Waag. Dont leave town
terribly during the Battle of (p345), a beguiling country without trying the local
Arnhem in 1944. It now hosts a town with a huddle of ancient speciality, Kruidkoek, a tangy
vibrant restaurant and nightclub buildings and the remnants of spice cake.
scene. Pause to admire the medieval walls. Look out for
imposing edifice of the the Drogenapstoren (p345), a Day 5: Sallandse Heuvelrug
Eusebiuskerk (p344), restored fortified tower dating from From Deventer, travel northeast
after wartime damage as the 15th century, and drop by to the partly wooded, sandy
were the neighbouring Stadhuis St Walburgskerk (p345), a heathlands of the Sallandse
and Duivelshuis (p344), both splendid Gothic church with a Heuvelrug (p324), now
of which are fine examples of medieval library, where the books protected as a national park.
Dutch Renaissance architecture. are still chained to the desks. At the Bezoekscentrum (Visitor
Then, go down to the Rijnkade, Centre), visitors can get their
where there is a walking and Day 4: Deventer bearings and pick up maps of
cycling path along the bank Cycle onwards and relax in the park and its myriad cycling
of the River Rhine. Deventer (p324), a small and routes. While wandering
historic town that nudges up through the park, look out for
Day 2: National Park de against the River IJssel. Watch the black grouse this is its last
Hoge Veluwe the heavily laden barges remaining breeding ground in
Pedal out to the National Park ploughing up and down the the whole of the Netherlands.
de Hoge Veluwe (p343), a chunk river, and then wander along
of mixed woodland, heath, the main square, the Brink, Day 6: Zwolle
marshland and sand dunes that as it curves past the towns Cycle to Zwolle (see p16 for
stretches north of Arnhem. intriguing Historisch Museum details on Zwolle).
Explore the parks maze of (p324), which occupies the old
cycling trails, and be sure to visit Day 7: Kampen
the Museonder (p343), a Approach Kampen (p320) from
subterranean museum that the east across the River IJssel
offers a picture of what the to appreciate the towns fine
natural world looks like below riverside setting and soaring
ground level from how roots spires. Once in town, make a
grow to the animals that burrow beeline for the unusual
there. Afterwards, head for the Ikonenmuseum (p321), with its
parks crowning highlight the substantial collection of Russian
Krller-Mller Museum (p342), and Greek icons, and get the
with its world-famous art low-down on the towns long
collection and open-air history at the intriguing
sculpture garden, Beeldentuin. Stedelijk Museum (p321). Finish
Return to Arnhem for the night. the day by wandering through
the town centre, admiring its
Day 3: Bronkhorst to handsome old buildings, most
Zutphen memorably the Oude Raadhuis
Head out of Arnhem to and the three remaining town
Bronkhorst (p345), a tiny but The Deventer skyline across the gates, which date back to the
immensely pretty little place with River IJssel 14th century.
Putting the Netherlands on the Map

The Netherlands is situated in Western Europe, bordering Belgium to
the south and Germany to the east. To its north and west is the North
Sea. The country is popularly known as Holland, although the provinces
of North and South Holland form only part of the Netherlands in reality.
Since the completion of the Deltawerken (Delta Works), the coastline
now reaches some 800 km (500 miles) in length. The countrys major
waterways and excellent road and rail systems make it an important
e
gateway to the rest of Europe, and to Germany in particular. e
z
Approximately one-sixth of its total area is covered with water.
n
The Netherlands has a population of just over 17 million.
e
d
d
a
W
Western Europe N ORWAY
Den Helder
SWEDEN
North
D E N MA R K NOORD
Sea HOLLAND IJsselmeer
REP. OF Enkhuizen
IRELAND UNITED Amsterdam
KINGDOM NETHERLANDS
GERMANY Hoorn
BELGIUM Alkmaar
CZECH Newcastle
REPUBLIC Markermeer
See inset map below
FRANCE AUSTRIA Leylstad
Atlantic SWITZ.
Ocean ITALY
Almere
Haarlem AMSTERDAM
SPAIN
Schiphol
Amersfoort
Leiden
Key ZUID
Den Haag HOLLAND Utrecht
Greater Amsterdam UTRECHT
Gouda
Land below sea level Delft
Rotterdam Le k L ek
Motorway Hoek van
Holland Rotterdam
l
Major road
aa
W
Railway Barendrecht
Hull,
Dordrecht
Harwich National border
's Hertogenbosch
Zierikzee NOORD BRABANT

Breda
Hull Tilburg
ZEELAND
Bergen
Middelburg op Zoom Eindhoven
Zeebrugge Turnhout
Ramsgate
Antwerpen
Alb
Oostende ert
K ana
Brugge Antwerpen a l
Nieuwpoort Mechelen mer

Gent De
B E L G I U M
Brussels
Hasselt
Kortrijk Leuven
Sint-
Ieper Bruxelles Truiden
Oudenaarde
PUTTING THE NETHERLANDS ON THE MAP 19
Norden Bremerhaven
Wilhelmshaven
nal
de Ka
EMS Ju
Emden
GRONINGEN
Groningen Leer Oldenburg
Leeuwarden Hunte
Groningen
FRIESLAND Friesoythe
Assen
Heerenveen DRENTHE Cloppenburg
Vechta
Emmen
Meppel Hoogeveen Meppen

cht
Lingen G E R M A N Y
Ve
Zwolle OV E R -
FLEVO- al
IJSSEL Nordhorn Kan
LAND elland
Almelo Mitt
Osnabrck
NETHERLANDS Rheine
Hengelo
Em
Deventer
s
Apeldoorn Enschede
Mnster
Berkel
el
GELDERLAND
IJss
0 kilometres 20
Arnhem
0 miles 20
Coesfeld
Nijmegen
Rh
ei
n
Wesel
Amsterdam and Environs
M
aa
s Markermeer
Helmond Heemskerk Purmerend
Eindhoven Beverwijk Volendam

Zaanstad
Blerick Krefeld
IJmuiden
Zaandam Monnickendam
LIMBURG
Haarlem
Zu Mnchengladbach Almere
id Zandvoort AMSTERDAM
W IJmeer
Ka
ille al
Ru Almere
na
msvaa
r Haven
Hoofdoorp Schiphol Weesp
Hillegom
rt
Amstelveen Bussum
Maastricht Uithoorn Hilversum

Sassenheim
Maastricht Mijdrecht
Aachen
INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS 21
A PORTRAIT OF
THE NETHERLANDS
From the Frisian Islands in the north to Zeeland in the south, the Netherlands is
a place of contrasts, with fine sandy beaches, picturesque villages and vibrant
towns with multilingual and outward-looking people. The mighty River Rhine
bisects the country, bringing trade and prosperity from far and wide.
The landscape of what is now the The Netherlands covers an area of

Netherlands has changed considerably 41,547 sq km (16,040 sq miles), about
over the past 2,000 years. Since Roman one-tenth the size of California. With
times, large tracts of land have been just over 17 million inhabitants, this means
swallowed up by the sea in areas such as a population density of around 380 per
Zeeland and the former Zuiderzee. Old sq km (1,000 per sq mile), making it the
maps show that during the Middle Ages third-most densely populated country
almost half of todays provinces of North in Europe after Monaco and Malta.
Holland and South Holland were under However, this is not something that is
water. Since then, large parts of this land readily noticeable to visitors outside the
have been reclaimed. The constant battle main cities, as the flat landscape seems
with the sea reached its height with anything but crowded.
the Delta Works. This massive hydraulic Dutch people are friendly, outgoing and
engineering achievement (see pp25051) direct. They care about social issues and
was designed to protect the southwestern the environment and almost everyone
part of the country against flooding. The speaks English, many fluently. They live
project was started after the disastrous in a country that is neat and tidy, where
floods of 1953, in which more than 1,800 there is excellent public transport and
people died. where visitors find it easy to get around.
The pier, the focus of social life on the beach at Scheveningen

Flowers in the Keukenhof garden near Lisse, the largest flower garden in the world
Hollands dunes, a natural barrier against the sea and an important water catchment area
Introducing the Netherlands tend to reply: Our capital is Amsterdam,

Although the Netherlands is the countrys and the government sits in The Hague.
official name, most of the rest of the Amsterdam is the most cosmopolitan of
world calls it Holland. This book uses these three cities, as well as the countrys
both names. However, Holland actually centre for cultural life. Rotterdam, home to
comprises only two of the 13 Dutch the Europoort, one of the worlds largest
provinces. North and South Holland ports, is the Netherlands industrial centre.
contain the countrys three main cities The Hague is the seat of government and
of Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Den Haag quarters many prestigious institutions,
(The Hague), which together with the including the International Court of
cities of Dordrecht, Utrecht, Leiden and Justice. With its neighbouring seaside
Haarlem form a horseshoe-shaped resort of Scheveningen, The Hague is
conurbation known as the Randstad, where most of the foreign embassies
literally, rim city (see pp17071). and consulates are situated.
When people ask, What is the capital Holland can be roughly divided into
of the Netherlands?, the smiling Dutch the Protestant north and Catholic south,
separated by the great rivers
flowing into the North Sea: the
Rhine, the Waal and the Maas
(Meuse). The people in the north
of the country tend to be more
sober and matter-of-fact, whereas
those of the south tend to be much
more flamboyant in their lifestyles.
Society and Politics

Social life in the Netherlands was
for many years based on the idea
of verzuiling, wherein different
sections of society rested their
beliefs on four pillars (zuilen):
Protestantism, Catholicism,
Shoppers at the Albert Cuypmarkt in Amsterdam liberalism and socialism. At one
A PORTRAIT OF THE NETHERLANDS 23
time, these groups had almost

no contact with one another.
Catholics would always vote for
the Katholieke Volkspartij, join
Catholic trade unions, base their
social lives on Catholic societies
and send their children to Catholic
schools. The Protestant pillar, on
the other hand, was formed of two
main factions: the Dutch Reformed
Church and the Calvinist Church.
Both had their own political The picturesque Dordrecht marina
parties, their own trade unions and
their own schools and societies. (PvdA) and the small D66 formed a
As for socialism and liberalism, the coalition with the conservative Liberal
division was less explicit, though Party (VVD). This resulted in a tripartite
the gap between the world of purple cabinet, which appeared so
the workers and that of the successful that the coalition was
entrepreneurs was huge. continued in 1998.
A major step towards The Dutch elections of May
unity came in 1980, when 2002 surprised everybody as
the three largest religion- the country moved to the right
based political parties A hollow post mill in the of the political spectrum. The
united in the CDA, a polder landscape assassination, nine days before,
Christian Democratic of the popular, flamboyant
alliance that went on to dominate and openly gay Pim Fortuyn had shocked
government coalitions for the next 20 the entire country. With his unyielding
years. The gap between the other parties views on Muslims and immigration, and
closed in 1994, when the Labour Party his criticism of the establishment, Fortuyn
The de Geul river at Epen in Zuid Limburg

Language and Culture

Dutch, a Germanic language, is used by
more than 20 million people in Holland,
Flanders and parts of the former Dutch
colonies. Afrikaans, a language of South
Africa closely related to Dutch, is a separate
language, as is Frisian, which is spoken by
more than 400,000 people in the province
of Friesland. Dutch has many dialects,
each of which has numerous regional
differences. However, these differences are
gradually disappearing because of the far-
Football fans sporting orange costumes reaching influences of radio and television.
Culturally, Holland has plenty to offer. The
was the antithesis of the Dutch tradition countrys colourful history is reflected in its
of consensual politics. Despite the loss many old buildings and large number of
of their charismatic leader, LPF became valuable museum collections. Exhibits
the second-largest party in the Lower range from those with local themes to
House; only the Christian Democrats world-famous art such as the collections
(CDA) did better. The coalition parties in Amsterdams Rijksmuseum (see pp1267)
of the former government lost 43 and the Mauritshuis in The Hague
seats between them, making this the (see pp2267). In addition to the
biggest shake-up in Dutch politics major museums of the cities,
since World War II. contemporary art can be seen in
Since 2010, the Dutch political galleries all over the country, and
climate has changed completely. in the profusion of works displayed
Dissatisfied with the coalition in the streets and at numerous
between PvdA, CDA and conservative local markets. As for the performing
Christen Unie, the Dutch voted en Dutch beer, fresh arts, more variety is available
masse for VVD and Geert Wilders from the tap today than ever before. Holland
Party for Freedom (PVV). However, in boasts a number of renowned
2012, the VVD, CDA and PVV govern- orchestras and is an established name
ment resigned when the PVV refused to in ballet. Stage and theatre have recently
sanction the austerity measures. New marked a shift from experimental to
elections were held, resulting in a more conventional performances.
VVD-PvdA government.
The Dutch Way of Life
The German poet Heinrich Heine (1797
1856) described Holland as a place where
everything happens 50 years later than
anywhere else. But today, anyone who
reflects on the tolerant Dutch attitude
towards drugs, the countrys relaxed laws
regarding euthanasia and the popular
opposition to the deployment of nuclear
weapons will come away with a different
picture. In fact, the Netherlands was the first
country to legalize gay marriages, regulate
prostitution, officially sanction euthanasia
A herring stall in Amsterdam and tolerate the over-the-counter sale of
marijuana. Even the attitude

of the Dutch towards their
monarchy is modern they are
regarded with an affection more
commonly extended to family
members than to rulers.
Since the depredations of
World War II, much has changed
in the way the Dutch live their
lives. Thrift and moderation, the
two traditional virtues of
Calvinism, are no longer writ
large in society. A measure of
flamboyance is slowly but surely
making its way into the Dutch
lifestyle. Today the Dutch eat out
enthusiastically and often. A Dutch production of The Three Musketeers
Restaurant and cooking columns
are now featured in newspapers and there are concerns about youngsters
magazines, and there are also many and binge-drinking.
cookery programmes aired on television. In their spare time, Dutch people head
Dutch drinking habits have also outdoors, often on bicycles, which are
changed. On fine-weather days, people enormously popular. Love of the
throng the pavement cafs to end the environment is a strong Dutch charac-
working day with a beer or a glass of wine. teristic. There are hundreds of organized
They also drink a great deal more wine rambling and cycling tours, funfairs and
with meals than once was the case. The theme parks, as well as a wide assortment
renowned Dutch gin, jenever (see p420), of festivals and other events held
is still popular, though younger people throughout the year (see pp369). And
prefer cocktails. As in a lot of countries, wherever you are, you will always find a
flea market with items
ranging from flowers to
antiques for sale not
far away.
The new-found joie de
vivre of the Dutch reflects
the general trend evident
in Western European coun-
tries. This is the result of a
new leisure culture, one
which is more sensory.
Less time is devoted to
reading and contempla-
tion, while food, drink,
sport and the arts all take
on increasingly prominent
roles. Politically, socially
and culturally, the Dutch
are embracing the 21st
De Waalkade, the promenade in Nijmegen century with confidence.
Holding Back the Water

Recent floods in the Netherlands river valleys,
particularly the one which occurred in
1995, when 200,000 people needed to be
evacuated from the area, have shown what
a threat water continues to pose to the
Netherlands. The only way the sea can be held
back is by dams, but in order to contain rivers
at high tide, the country is adopting a new
approach, that of controlled flooding. Flooded farm in Gelderland (1995)
Since the 11th century

more and more land has
been reclaimed from the
sea. Countless dykes were
built over the centuries
using elementary tools,
such as spades and
burries, a kind of stretcher.
The illustration shows a
breached dyke being filled.
At the Hook of Holland the The lowest point At Krimpen the IJssel The Krimpenerwaard
sea is not held back by dunes, in Holland is the discharges into the between the IJssel and the
as it is along the entire coast Zuidplaspolder at Nieuwe Maas. Lek, consists of high-quality
of North Holland and South Gouda, 6.74 m (22 hayfields and pasture.
Holland, but by a dyke. ft) below sea level.
The River
Lek
A large part of Cross-section of the Netherlands

the Netherlands This cross-section of the Netherlands follows
(blue on the map) a straight line from the Hook of Holland to
is below sea level. Achterhoek (see Locator Map) and shows clearly
These areas have how low much of the land is. Only some 65 km
been called laag-
(40 miles) inland, at Neder-Betuwe, does the
Nederland, or the
ground rise above sea level. The lowest point
low Netherlands,
and have only in the Netherlands is the Zuidplaspolder, which
come into being is more than 6.74 m (22 ft) below sea level.
over the past Comparatively elevated areas like the Betuwe
10,000 years. have nothing to fear from the sea, but this does
not mean that they are not at risk of flooding:
Key the Waal River, which runs more or less parallel
to this cross-section, may flood at unusually
Above sea level
high tides or after a heavy rainfall.
Below sea level
The Story of Hans Brinker

The tale of the little boy who held his
finger in a leak in a dyke to hold back
the sea is not a figure from Dutch
folklore but probably originated in the
book Hans Brinker, or, The Silver Skates,
by American writer Mary Mapes
Dodge (18311905). It tells the story
of a poverty-stricken boy who helps
his ailing father. Hans and the doctor
in the book (Boerhaave) are historical
figures. The story was published in
over 100 editions in Dodges lifetime.
Floods in the river valleys in 1993 and 1995

led to the implementation of large-scale dyke
reinforcement projects, known as the delta plan
for the large rivers. Old flood channels were
also repaired as a matter of priority to allow
more water to drain off.
Over-Betuwe is an area of Statue of Hans Brinker in Spaarndam
Neder-Betuwe is probably fruit orchards, horticulture
Hollands most important and cattle farming. Montferland is an important
fruit-growing region. The Pannerdens
region of lateral moraines.
Canal currently
These moraines were
connects the Upper
formed by
and Lower Rhineland.
the actions
67.1 m (220 ft) of glaciers.
above sea level
Merwede
Canal
AMSTERDAM
Sea level
ROTTERDAM
6.74 m (22 ft) below sea level MAASTRICHT
Locator Map
Cross-section of a Modern River Dyke

Blocks of boulder clay protect the dyke from the wash of the river. The water seeps through the
water-resistant clay layer slowly, draining off quickly only once it reaches the sand layer. This way the
body of the dyke stays dry and hard.
Water table Winter dyke Concrete blocks Water meadows Summer dyke
Farmhouses and Windmills

In the mainly flat landscape of the Netherlands,
farmhouses always stand in the shelter of trees.
Windmills, on the other hand, needing as much wind
as they can get, usually stand in very exposed areas.
Both are highly valued because they are so picturesque,
and it is easy to forget that they actually belong in the
category of functional architecture. How a windmill In the farmhouses of North Holland,
works is explained on page 183. the barn, threshing-floor and house
are all under one pyramidal roof.
This Drenthe
farmhouse is a
modern version of
The inner yard of the
what has been known Zuid Limburg farmhouse
since the Middle once teemed with
Ages as a los hoes animal life.
(detached house).
Main house Cattle shed
The Zuid Limburg

Farmhouses
The traditional
farmhouses of Zuid
Limburg have a
distinctive inner yard,
enclosed by the house
and farm buildings.
In the inner yard,
ducks, chickens
and pigs once The walls are
The gateway
roamed, rummaging is large enough made of marl
in the dunghill. The to let in a horse and covered
in plaster.
picture may have been and wagon.
lively but was not
particularly hygienic.
The krukhuis is a hall-type
house, distinguished
by the main house
being at right angles
to the barn.
The hallenhuis
has a low-hanging
roof held up by uprights
kept in position by cross-beams.
The side walls are half-timbered.
The kop-hals-
romp
farmhouse Langgevel (long-gable)
is found farmhouses are common on
mainly in the sandy ground of Peel
Friesland. and Kempen. In this
In this type type of farmhouse,
of farmhouse, the living
the long, oblong accommodation
barn is separated from and farm
the mainhouse by a small, buildings are
intermediate building. arranged in a row.
Paltrok Mills
Sail
Paltrok, or smock, mills were developed for
use as sawmills around 1600. They were so
called because of their resemblance to the
paltrok, a smock that was commonly worn
at the time. These windmills were mounted
on a circular track, allowing them to rotate Wheels allow the
in their entirety. Generally, smock mills were windmill to rotate
on its axis.
used to saw wagenschot entire oak
trunks that had been split in two.
Ridge post
Underneath the
porch is a crane
for lifting the
tree trunks from The mill house
the water. is divided into
two wings.
Saw floor
Under the cap

the wind
shaft propels
the heavy
brake wheel.
Belt or berg mills
have an extra-high body
because of surrounding
buildings or trees. A
mound (berg) made at
the base of the mill
provides access to
the sails.
Stander (post) mills

are the oldest type of
mill in Holland. The Wipmolen are a
entire wooden body later version of the Stellingmolen, like
rotates on a central stander mills and the belt mill, have an
wooden post. Most were designed to extra-tall body. This type
post mills were used pump water. The was used to produce
to grind corn. smaller body dye, oil or paper. An
rotates on a fixed, encircling platform
pyramidal base. halfway up the body
enables the mill to be
Toren mills (tower mills) rotated and the sails to
have a brick cylindrical be reefed on the wings.
body and a cap that can be
rotated from inside. Only
four survive in Holland The tjasker was used to drain small
today. The oldest one can areas of water. It consisted of a sloping
be seen at Achterhoek axle with sails at one end and an
near Zeddam. Archimedes screw at the other.
The Dutch Masters

The proliferation of painting in the Netherlands
during the 17th century the countrys Golden Age
corresponded with the great demand for paintings
among newly rich townspeople. The lack of major royal
and ecclesiastic patrons meant that there was no official
Willem Heda (15941680) was one
school of painting, which left artists free to specialize in of the masters of still life. The painters
particular fields, such as historical subjects, portraits, simple compositions reflect his
landscapes and still life, as well as genre painting. signature use of sober colours.
Frans Hals (c.15801666) left an oeuvre of

some 200 portraits and more than 50 genre
paintings. He painted not only regents and
wealthy townsmen but also peasants, soldiers,
fishermen, publicans and drunkards. No sketches
for his paintings are known, and it is assumed
that he painted alla prima, that is, straight onto
the canvas without sketches. The Fool, shown
above, dates from around 1623.
Rembrandt van Rijn

Rembrandt van Rijn is regarded
by many as the greatest Dutch
painter of all time. He was born
in Leiden in 1606, but lived in
Amsterdam from 1632 until his
death in 1669. Rembrandt was
a master in the use of light
and shadow. The Jewish Bride
(painted around 1665)
is regarded as one of the best
portraits of his later period.
Jacob van Ruisdael (162882)

was an unrivalled landscape
painter. In his View of Haarlem
depicted here, the low horizon
is dwarfed by an imposing
sky with clouds.
The silversmith Adam van Vianen

(15691627) was famous for his
ornamental style, which was
known as kwabstijl, or flabby
style, and distinguished by
flowing ornamentation and the
use of various fantasy elements.
This gilded silver jug is an example
of his style. Much of the silver work
from this time has been lost because
pieces have been melted down in
order to trade in the metal for cash.
Jan Steen (162579) was a prolific painter with a

variety of works, 800 of which survive today. They
include everything from altar pieces through
landscape paintings to works with mythological
themes. However, Steen is known primarily for his
genre painting, which gives a detailed, humorous
picture of 17th-century society. The Family Scene,
shown above, is a typical Jan Steen household
one in disarray. Tavern scenes were another of the
artists favourite subjects.
Gerard van Honthorst (15901656) was

greatly influenced by the works of Caravaggio.
As well as historical scenes and portraits, he
painted genre pieces such as The Merry Fiddler
(above). His famous nocturnal scenes lit by
candle-light led to his being nicknamed
Gherardo delle Notte in Italy.
Johannes Vermeer (163275) spent his entire life in

Delft. Only 40 of his works are known today, but even
this modest oeuvre plays a prominent role in the
history of painting. His balanced compositions appear
very modern. Long before the Impressionists, Vermeer
succeeded in conveying light through colour. The
street depicted in View of Houses in Delft (c.1658), left,
has become known as Vermeers street.
Pottery and Tiles

When in 1620 exports of porcelain from China to Europe fell
because of the troubles in China, Dutch potters seized the
opportunity and started to produce their own wares, imitating
the Chinese style on a large scale. The quality of the Dutch blue-
white pottery was excellent. The city of Delft became one of the
prime centres for the production of this china, which reached its
height between 1660 and 1725. During the Art Nouveau and
Art Deco periods, Dutch potters regained their international
renown. The best known of them was TAC Colenbrander. Tulip vase
Stylized flowers reflect the

Italian majolica tradition.
De Porceleyne Fles is
the only Delftware
shop which has
managed to survive
throughout the
centuries. The business
was bought in 1876 and
revived by Joost Thooft,
whose initials can still
be seen on the
workshops mark. The
exquisite painting on
the porcelain continues
to be done by hand,
although the rest of
the manufacturing
process no longer
involves the crafts
traditional methods.
Delftware
Although tin-glazed earthenware was also made in other
parts of the Netherlands, Delft came to describe almost all
earthenware made in the Netherlands during this period.
Any piece made after 1650 will always have a workshop
mark. Later, the glazers initials, as well as a code denoting
the year and a serial number, were added.
Artists Year code DB

initials stands for 1982
Workshops Serial number

mark
Underside of a vase
This set of four tiles features a pattern of

pomegranates, grapes, rosettes and lilies.
The first Dutch porcelain Delft design is used here to

was made in 1759 in the North decorate a plane tail. The
Holland town of Weesp. artist Hugo Kaagman
At the time, it was decorated the tails of
second in quality only four British Airways
to Meissen porcelain. aircraft with blue
However, production Delft designs.
was halted after 10 years
because of financial diffi
culties. In 1774, a new factory
was opened in Loosdrecht,
which was moved to Ouder
Amstel in 1784. This large
vase from 1808 is a typical
example of the Amstel china
that was produced there.
Tiles
Majolica wall tiles decorated earthenware on a
tinglazed background were made for the first
time in the Netherlands during the 16th century,
with production reaching its peak in the 17th
century. Until 1625, polychrome decoration
predominated, after which the majority of tiles
were painted in blue on white. Major centres were
Makkum where in the 17th century the Tichelaar
family firm, which operates to this day, was
established as well as Harlingen, Delft, Gouda,
Amsterdam, Utrecht and Haarlem. The tiles
depicted here are from Haarlem. (See also p419.)
TAC Colenbrander
One of the biggest names in Art Nouveau
pottery is TAC Colenbrander (18411930).
Originally an architect, he became known for his
fanciful floralbased designs for the Rozenburg
earthenware and porcelain factory in The Hague,
where he was chief designer from 1884 to 1889.
As celebrated as his designs were, the ceramics
had limited commercial success. One reason for
this was their expense, a reflection of the labour
intensive production. In 191213, Colenbrander
worked for the ZuidHolland pottery in Gouda.
In addition to pottery, he designed wallpaper
and carpets, and worked as a graphic and
interior designer.
The lily often features as a
corner motif on Dutch tiles.
The Art Nouveau plate by WP Hartgring was

made in 1904, the same year as this master potter
won a gold medal at the
world exhibition at the
St Louis Worlds Fair.
Hartgring worked
for 20 years at the
Rozenburg factory
in The Hague and
for 10 years at
the ZuidHolland
pottery. His
works reflect the Day and Night set by Colenbrander, 1885
Japanese style.
The Netherlands in Bloom

The Dutch love affair with flowers began rather
unromantically in homes during the 17th century, when
flowers were used to keep bad smells at bay. The
aesthetic aspect soon developed, and today the
Netherlands is one of the worlds most important flower-
growing countries. It has an unrivalled distribution
system, keeping Holland ahead of competition from
countries such as Israel, Spain, Colombia, Kenya, Fields of flowers are not confined
Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Netherlands has a to the west of the country. These
rose fields are outside Lottum in the
92 per cent share of the world market for flowers.
north of the southern province of
Limburg, where every year a special
Tulips were rose competition is held.
introduced to
Holland from Turkey
in the 17th century.
They became the
subject of an
unparalleled
speculative bubble
which has become
known as tulip
mania. Today the
tulip is considered
a quintessentially
Dutch product,
with innumerable
varieties.
The annual
flower
competition
(bloemen
corso) in the
bulb-growing
region is a
grand event
(see p36).
Cut Flowers From Dutch Nurseries

The chrysanthemum
As consumers have become increasingly
(Chrysanthemum)
demanding, the number of flower species and
originated in China.
varieties is constantly on the rise. Consumer
tastes vary from place to place: in France,
gladioli are very popular, whereas in Great
Britain, it is lilies and carnations. In Asia,
tulips are in great demand. A small
sample of the flowers grown
commercially in the Netherlands The iris (Iris)
is shown here. flower and bulb
are in demand.
The sandy soil in the high

areas behind the dunes of
Holland is known as geest
soil and is very well suited
for cultivating bulbs.
Not all daffodil

bulbs can survive
the winter.
Crocus
bulbs Hyacinth bulbs
should be range in colour from
planted in violet red to white.
September.
Tulip bulbs are

highly resistant to
disease and pests.
Iris bulbs should be
dug up after flowering.
Flower Sellers
Flower sellers are part and parcel of the
Netherlands street scene. They can also be
found indoors, in places such as stations or
shopping centres. In most countries, cut flowers
are considered expensive and a luxury. In the
Netherlands, however, they are practically a daily
shopping item and quite cheap. The Netherlands
is indeed the land of flowers par excellence.
The lilac (Syringa) The carnation The rose (Rosa) is

Dahlias (Dahlia) come is often bought for (Dianthus) is loved known as the queen
in 20,000 varieties. its fragrance. as a spray. of flowers.
THE NETHERLANDS
THROUGH THE YEAR
The Netherlands has much to offer in Rotterdam, are much more modern.
the way of holidays, festivals and other Many of the events are held to honour
events. The choice of cultural events is navigation and fishing, such as Flag
greatest in summer several cities host Day (Vlaggetjesdag), held each May
theatre festivals in June. Some festivals, in Scheveningen. Music, too, plays a
such as Leidens 3-Oktoberfeesten, have prominent role. The world-renowned
deep historical roots, whereas others, such North Sea Jazz festival brings the
as the multicultural Zomercarnaval in genres greats to Rotterdam.
Spring
In March, daffodils and
crocuses burst into bloom
in the countrys towns and
villages. From mid-April
onwards, when the tulips
are in flower, the bulb fields
along the Dutch coast are
a spectacular sight to see.
March
Meezing Matthus (Easter),
Amsterdam and elsewhere.
Concert-goers are welcome
to sing along during many Blossoming fruit tree in the Betuwe
performances of Bachs
St Matthews Passion. of Brielle (Den Briel) recreate in the country are opened
Keukenhof (end Mar to mid- the 1572 recovery of the up to the public.
May), near Lisse. These 32 ha city from the Spaniards. Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day)
(79 acres) of landscape Foto Binnale (Apr to Jul), (May), Scheveningen. The
gardens demonstrate the Amsterdam and other cities. arrival of the first herring catch
best of all the flowers Holland Biannual international of the season is celebrated
has to offer. This open-air photography exhibition takes with demonstrations of
exhibition was started in place in even-numbered years. traditional fishing-related
1949, and has become Bloemen Corso (Flower crafts, music and a race.
internationally renowned. Competition) (late Apr), Aspergerie Primeur
Bollenstreek. Floats with floral (Ascension Day), Venlo. In
April sculptures travel a 40-km a festive atmosphere on a
First of April Celebrations, (25-mile) route through re-created old-time village
Brielle. Dressed in 16th-century- Haarlem, Hillegom, Lisse green, visitors can tuck into
style clothing, the inhabitants and Noordwijk. deliciously cooked asparagus.
Koningsdag (Kings Day) Keidagen (around Ascension
(27 Apr). The birthday of King Day), Lochem. Five days of
Willem-Alexander sees
festivities throughout the
land; the biggest event is
held in Amsterdam.
May
Landelijke Fietsmaand
(National Cycling Month)
(all month). Cycling activities
throughout the country.
Nationale Moldendag
(National Windmill Day)
A young street musician on Kings Day (second Sat in May). Some Flag Day, the start of the new herring
in Amsterdam 600 of the 1,000 windmills fishing season
THE NETHERLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 37
music, funfairs, street fairs

and performances by
international artists.
Sloepenrace (Boat Regatta).
A regatta from Harlingen
to Terschelling.
Jazz in Duketown (around
Whitsun), s-Hertogenbosch.
Four days of open-air high-
quality jazz and blues bands
at various venues in town.
The beer flows freely.
Summer
Summer in the Netherlands is
a time of major cultural events.
These include the Holland The increasingly popular boat race to Terschelling
Festival in Amsterdam, the
Theater a/d Werf in Utrecht, Helder. A chance to see frigates, Zomercarnaval (Summer
the Parade (Amsterdam, submarines, torpedo boats Carnival) (last Sat in Jul),
Utrecht, The Hague, Rotterdam), and mine hunters belonging Rotterdam. A lively Caribbean
and the Haagse Zomer in The to the Netherlands Navy, with carnival with exotic music,
Hague. And if theatre is not spectacular shows put on by plenty to eat and drink and
your favourite pastime, there the Netherlands Marines. a swirling procession.
are plenty of other activities
to keep you entertained. July August
Oud Limburgs Schuttersfeest Gay Pride (first weekend in Aug),
June (Marksmans Festival) (first Sun Amsterdam. One of the very
Holland Festival (3 weeks in Jul). The annual tournament best Prides in the world; the
of Jun), venues by the marksmen of highlight is the Canal Parade.
throughout Limburg is a colourful Mosselfeesten (Mussel Festivals)
Amsterdam and major folk event held in the (third Sat in Aug), Yerseke; (last
cities. A varied hometown of the previous weekend in Aug), Philippine.
programme of concerts, years winner. Harvest festival presenting the
plays, opera and ballet. North Sea Jazz (mid-Jul), new crops of Zeeland.
Aaltjesdag (Eel Day) Rotterdam. A three-day Preuvenemint (last weekend in
(second Sat in Jun), spectacle widely acknowl- Aug), Maastricht. Flamboyant
Harderwijk. Major edged as the worlds largest festival of food and drink at
fishing celebration jazz festival, featuring the historical Vrijthof.
in this former harbour performances by the Uitmarkt (last weekend in Aug),
on the Zuider Zee. biggest names in jazz. Amsterdam. Festive opening
Oerol Festival (mid- Herring-eating Tilburgse kermis (Tilburg of the theatre season with
Jun), Terschelling. by hand Fair) (end Jul). One of the performances and information
This alternative biggest and most exuberant booths. There is also a book
cultural festival lasts for ten fairs in Holland, with a special fair, where literary publishers
days, with clowns, street gay Pink Monday. are represented.
theatre, acrobats, pop concerts
and music from around
the world.
Poetry International (mid-Jun),
Rotterdam. Prestigious poetry
festival featuring an inter-
national programme, in
Rotterdams Doelen district.
Pasar Malam Besar (second half
of Jun), The Hague. This festival
of Indonesian music and dance,
shadow puppets, cooking
demonstrations and colourful
eastern market takes place at
Malieveld in The Hague.
Nationale Vlootdagen (Navy
days) (end Jun/early Jul), Den North Sea Jazz, one of the worlds major jazz events
The Nijmegen Fair, a popular tradition dating back centuries
Vliegerfeest (Kite Festival) 3 October 1574. Permanent

Autumn (mid-Sep), Scheveningen. fixtures in the festivities are
As the cold weather starts For two days, hundreds of the distribution of herring
slowly but surely to set in, strange creations hover over and white bread to the
indoor events become more the beach. townspeople, as well as the
prominent. In autumn, the Jordaanfestival (second and procession and funfair.
theatres are full in the third weeks in Sep), Amsterdam. Eurospoor (mid-to late Oct),
evenings, and museums are Fairs, street parties, talent Utrecht. Europes biggest
routinely busy. However, contests and live music are model train show takes
open-air events are still held, held in the southern part of the place in the Jaarbeurs.
the golden light of dusk and picturesque former working-
magnificent clouds adding class district of Jordaan.
to the atmosphere. Prinsjesdag (third Tue in Sep),
The Hague. Accompanied
September by high-ranking government
Monumentendag (Monument officials and with a guard
Day) (second Sat in Sep). of honour, the king rides in
Private historic buildings his golden carriage from
open to the public. Noordeinde Palace to the
Fruitcorso (second weekend Binnenhof (Parliament
in Sep), Tiel. Spectacular Building), where he makes
parade of floats with his Royal Speech in the
gigantic fruit sculptures. Ridderzaal (Hall of the
Knights) in order to open
the Dutch Parliament.
Nijmeegse kermis (Nijmegen
fair) (end Sep/early Oct). Held
every year since the 13th
century, the fair stretches Soldiers accompanying the King before he
ribbon-like through the centre makes his Royal Speech in the Ridderzaal
of the city. On Mondays and
Tuesdays are the piekdagen, November
when children can visit the Sint-Maarten (11 Nov), Western
attractions for the entrance and Northern Netherlands.
fee of 50 cents. In the early evening, children
equipped with lanterns walk
October from door to door, singing
3-Oktoberfeesten, Leiden. songs, for which they are
A large public festival to given sweets.
An elaborate fruit sculpture at the commemorate the relief Intocht van Sinterklaas
Tiel Fruitcorso of Leiden from its siege on (arrival of St Nicholas)
(second or third week in Nov). from the celebrations of

St Nicholas is celebrated in St Nicholas, Christmas and
every town and village in the New Year.
Holland. He arrives by ship
near St Nicholaaskerk (see p95) December
and then rides on his grey Sinterklaasavond (St Nicholass
horse through town. Until Day) (5 Dec). St Nicholas ends
5 December, children with St Nicholass Eve on 5
traditionally sing Nicholas December. Both young and
carols in the evenings, and old are brought gifts, more
every morning find sweets often than not in person by (a
in their shoes. hired) Santa Claus. Friends give
poems caricaturing each other. The latest boats on display at the
Cirque dHiver (between annual Hiswa
Christmas and New Years Eve),
Roermond. Four days of Scheveningen, and hundreds
world-class circus acts in the of people in swimsuits run
Oranjerie theatre hotel, in down the beach to take a dip
the historic town centre. in the ice-cold water.
New Years Eve (31 Dec). The Leidse Jazzweek (mid-Jan),
Dutch spend the last evening Leiden. Throughout the week,
of the old year in festive jazz of all styles is played in
surroundings at home or the halls and cafs of the
with friends. Fritters and old town.
apple turnovers are eaten
and, in many houses, the February
champagne corks pop at Hiswa (Feb or Mar), Amsterdam.
The distribution of white bread in midnight. Afterwards, people Boat show in the RAI (see p141),
celebration of the relief of Leiden walk the streets to see in the featuring all types of crafts,
New Year with organized and from dinghies to yachts.
individual firework displays. Carnival (Feb or Mar). Officially
Winter three, but in practice five, days
December aside, there are January before Lent, the Catholic south
not as many events in the Nieuwjaarsduik (New Years celebrates wildly. There are
winter calendar as there are Dip) (1 Jan), Scheveningen. processions with colourful
for the rest of the year Every year, at noon on New floats, and costumed people
perhaps to the relief of those Years Day, a starting-gun sing and dance in the cafs
who need January to recover is fired on the pier in and in the streets.
The arrival of St Nicholas, attracting a great deal of attention

The Climate in the Netherlands

The Netherlands has a maritime climate, WEST FRISIAN
characterized by cool summers and mild winters. ISLANDS Leeuwarden
In summer, the average maximum temperature is
around 20C (68F), while in winter the average
FRIESLAND
minimum temperature is around 0C (32F). It is
slightly warmer south of the countrys big rivers than
north of them, and there are slightly more hours
of sunshine on the coast than inland. Because of the
temperature difference between the land and the
sea, there is a constant westerly sea breeze on
the coast in summer.
NORTH
DEN HELDER HOLLAND
Lelystad
19/66
18/64
C/ F 14/57 14/57 Haarlem FLEVOLAND
13/55
9/48 9/48 Amsterdam

7/45
5/41 5/41
2/36
1/34
48 111 227 212 145 50

hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs The Hague
76 45 32 67 76 79 Utrecht
mm mm mm mm mm mm SOUTH UTRECHT
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov HOLLAND
Rotterdam
Nijmegen
s-Hertogenbosch
ZEELAND NORTH BRABANT

Middelburg
Eindhoven
DE BILT BEEK
21/70 22/72
19/66 Average 19/66
17/63 18/64
C/F
maximum C/F
12/54 temperature 13/55
10/50 9/48 10/50
9/48 Average 10/50 9/48
7/45 8/46
5/41
minimum
3/37 4/39
1/34
temperature 2/36
4/39
1/30
Average hours 1/30 Maas-
54 118 214 191 143 53 44 109 202 181 145 53
of sunshine per tricht
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
76 44 43 82 73 55
month
68 45 62 89 81 62
mm mm mm mm mm mm Average mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov
rainfall
per month
GRONINGEN
Groningen
Assen
DRENTHE
Spring
Zwolle
OVERIJSSEL
Enschede
Apeldoorn
GELDERLAND
Summer
Arnhem
EELDE
21/70
18/64
16/61
C/ F
LIMBU RG Autumn
12/54
9/48 8/46
8/46
6/43
4/39
3/37
1/30 0/32
46 104 214 183 142 50
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
72 46 53 95 72 66
mm mm mm mm mm mm
Winter
INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS 43
THE HISTORY OF THE

NETHERLANDS
In 12 BC, the Romans conquered southern Northern Netherlands liberated itself from
Holland, and in AD 50 they declared the the Habsburg Duke Philip II, and enjoyed a
Rhine the northern border of their empire. period of unprecedented economic and
The region north of this was conquered by cultural flowering. By the mid-17th century,
the Frisians. At the end of the 4th century, the it had become the greatest trading nation
Romans withdrew from the Low Countries, in the world, a status gradually relinquished
which were taken over by the Frisians, Franks during the 18th century.
and Saxons. In the 8th century, the Franks The different independent regions making
ruled the region alone. Christianity was up the republic were joined together under
introduced by the missionary Willibrord in Napoleon, with William I becoming king
695, and was completed under Charlemagne. in 1815. However, unification with Belgium
After the disintegration of the Frankish proved unsuccessful and was officially
Empire, the Netherlands fell under German ended in 1839, although it had already
rule. Actual power was exercized by the ended de facto in 1830.
vassals, of whom the Bishop of Utrecht was In the 20th century, Holland maintained
the most powerful until the Concordat neutrality during World War I, but suffered
of Worms in 1122, when the German king greatly during World War II. Invaded by the
lost the right to appoint bishops. During Nazis in May 1940, the country was not
the 12th century, the Count of Holland was liberated entirely until May 1945. It subse-
the most important figure in the region. quently developed into one of the most
In the 14th and 15th centuries, the dispute prosperous states within the European
between the two factions the Hooks and Union. Today, the country remains a cons-
the Cods marked the end of the feudal titutional monarchy, with the royal family
age. At the end of the 16th century, the enjoying great popularity among the Dutch.
Map of the world from 1564 by the cartographer Ortelius of Antwerp
The IJ at Amsterdam, Viewed from the Mussel Quay, painted by Ludolf Backhuysen (16311708)
Rulers of the Netherlands

In the Middle Ages, the Netherlands were run by local feudal dukes,
as well as by the counts of Holland and the bishops of Utrecht. They
were all officially vassals of the German king. In the 15th century,
the region came under the rule of the House of Burgundy through
marriage alliances, after which it was incorporated into the
Habsburg Empire. In 1581, the Northern Netherlands freed itself
from the Habsburgs. Since then with some interruptions the
House of Orange has ruled over parts of what are today called
Holland, initially as stadholders, but from 1815 as monarchs.
14171433 Jacoba
11521190 Frederik
of Bavaria
c. 685719 Barbarossa (German
Radboud, King king)
of the Frisians 13421364 Jan IV
van Arkel, Bishop
of Utrecht
13121355 Jan III
814840 (Duke of Brabant
Louis the and Limburg)
14041417
Pious 885 Willem VI,
889 Count of
12031222 Willem I,
Gerulf, Holland
Count Count of Holland
of
Holland
700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400

BURG
700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
936973
Otto I
(German 13711402
king) Willem I, Duke
13451354 of Gelre and
Margaretha of Gulik
918976
Balderik, Bavaria
Bishop of
Utrecht
14331467 Philip the
12711326 Good (House of
10691090 Reinald I, Burgundy)
Egbert II, Count of Gelre
Count of
Friesland, last
12671294 Jan I,
of the
Brunonen Duke of Brabant
(from 1288 also
12341256 Willem II
Duke of Limburg)
10911121 (Count of Holland)
Floris II, Count
of Holland
11281139
Andries van Kuik
(Bishop of Utrecht)
12561296 Floris V
(Count of Holland)
768814
Charlemagne
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 45
15851625
Maurits
2013
15591567 and 15721584 Willem-Alexander
18061810 Louis
William of Orange, The Silent (king)
Napoleon (French
(stadholder of Holland, Zeeland
viceroy, king of Holland)
and Utrecht, under Philip II
until 1581)
18151840
William I (king)
15671573 Ferdinand,
Duke of Alva (viceroy
under Philip II)
16251647
Frederick-Hendrik
14671477 16471650
Charles the Bold William II
16721702
14771482 Maria William III 18981948
of Burgundy 16871711 Wilhelmina
Johan Willem
Friso, stadholder 18901898 Emma
14821506 Philip the (regent)
Handsome (House of Friesland
of Habsburg) (1696), Prince
of Orange (1702)
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000

UNDY HABSBURG HUIS VAN ORANJE
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
18491890
William III
18401849
William II
17951806 18901948
Batavian Republic Wilhelmina
17511795 19481980
15591567 Margaretha of Parma William V Juliana
(governor under Philip II)
15061555 15551581 17471751 19802013 Beatrix

Charles V Philip II William IV
Holland and its Monarchy

The Dutch royal family is extremely popular. The
former queen, Beatrix, was the fourth queen in a
row. The present king, Willem-Alexander, is the
countrys first king since 1890.
Prehistoric and Roman Times

About 13,000 years ago, the Low Countries emerged from
under the ice of the last Ice Age. Temperatures gradually rose,
turning the tundra into areas of forest and marshes, inhabited Utrecht
by nomadic hunters. In the Early Stone Age (45002000 BC), Nijmegen
farming communities were established here and there. The

megalith builders were the best known of these settled Maastricht
inhabitants. Around 600 BC, Germanic and Celtic tribes

settled in the Low Countries. They were here when the The Low Countries (AD 50)
Romans conquered the southern part of the region, in the 1st Germanic peoples
century BC. In AD 50, the Romans finally declared the Rhine as Roman territory
the Roman Empires northern frontier, establishing Roman Coastline in 3000 BC
settlements in Utrecht and Maastricht.
Megaliths
Between 3400 and 3200 BC, the
inhabitants of the Drenthe plateau built
some 100 megaliths. Of these, 54 have
survived into the present (see pp310
11). These impressive tombs were once
concealed beneath a mound of sand.
Urns
These urns
date from
1150800 BC.
The dark rings in this
picture are of the ditches
that originally surrounded
the urn-mounds. The rings
are interrupted at their
southeastern edge, possibly
to represent the symbolic
entrance to the tomb.
4500 BC Farmers settle on the loess land of

55,000 BC Small groups of Neanderthal 1900 BC Start of
Zuid Limburg. They have been referred to
people inhabit the surroundings of Hijken the Bronze Age in
as Bandkeramikers, or the Linear Pottery
and Hoogersmilde. A few hand axes and two the Low Countries
Culture, after their striped pottery
campsites have been found
10,000 BC 7500 BC 5000 BC 2500 BC 2000 BC
34003200 BC
Farmers of the Beaker
Folk build megaliths at
11,000 BC Reindeer hunters of the Drenthe, Overijssel Wheel from
Hamburg Culture inhabit Drenthe and Groningen 2700 BC
Where to See
Prehistoric and
Roman Holland
In addition to the megaliths
of Drenthe and the Someren
urnfield, prehistoric graves
have been discovered at
Almere, Hilversum, Vaassen,
Lunteren, Goirle and Rolde,
and at Toterfout/Halfmijl
The Simpelveld Sarcophagus
in Brabant, where 16 burial
In the 1930s, a Roman burial urn was excavated at
mounds have been restored
Simpelveld near Limburg. The interior of the urn is
to their original condition,
decorated with reliefs depicting the exterior and
complete with trenches and
the furnishings of a Roman house.
rings of stakes. The urnfield
on the Bosoverheide, a
couple of kilometres west of
The Urnfield the Weert, was, around 800
In 1991, an urnfield dating BC, one of the largest burial
grounds in northwestern
from 600 BC was discovered
Europe. Roman finds can be
at Someren near Brabant. It
seen in places like Oudheden
had been ploughed under in Leiden (see p221) and the
by farmers during the Valkhof museum in Nijmegen
Middle Ages. The dead were (see p347). The Archeon
cremated in southern archaeological theme park
Holland from 1500 BC, and in Alphen a/d Rijn (see p426)
in northern Holland from is highly informative and
1000 BC. The burial mounds entertaining, for adults and
of Someren were arranged children alike.
closely together, and each
contained its own urn.
Glass Flasks Roman Mask

These Roman flasks from the This mask was found near
Farmer with Plough 2nd century AD were Nijmegen, which was once
The plough was used excavated at Heerlen. the camp of a Roman legion.
in the Iron Age.
450 BC Start of the

Second Iron Age, or
750400 BC First La Tne Age 5510 BC Batavians settle in the river
Iron Age in the area, the Cananefates in the coastal Roman temple
Bronze Age
Low Countries area and the Frisians in the north in Elst
sacrificial dagger
1500 BC 1000 BC 750 BC 500 BC 250 BC AD 1
300100 BC The 57 BC Caesar AD 6970

1300 BC The Exloo necklace is made Germans expand conquers the Batavian Uprising,
from tin beads from England, Baltic southwards across the Belgae, who followed by the
amber and Egyptian pottery beads Rhine, clashing with inhabit present- re-establishment
Celtic tribes day Belgium of Roman rule
Frisians, Franks and Saxons

When the Romans withdrew at the end of the 4th century,
the Low Countries, like the rest of Europe, experienced a
Deventer
great migration of peoples. By around 500, the Frisians Dorestad
had spread their territory southwards to the great rivers,
while the Saxons lived east of the IJssel and the Franks had Maastricht
settled in the area south of the great rivers. Approximately
Kamerijk
two centuries later, the Franks took over the whole region
as far as the Lauwerszee. With the spread of Christianity The Low Countries (AD 700)
under Charlemagne, the entire area of the Netherlands Frisians
became Christian. After Charlemagnes death, the region Franks
belonged first to the Middle Kingdom of Lothair, and Saxons
then, from 925, to the German Empire.
The Life of St Boniface

Two episodes in the life of the
Anglo-Saxon missionary
Boniface are illustrated here:
on the left, he is shown
baptizing a convert; on the
right, his martyrdom is
depicted. In 716 and 719,
Boniface went on missionary
expeditions to Friesland. He
was subsequently made
bishop and later archbishop. In
753, he embarked on a further
missionary expedition to
Friesland, which resulted in his
Widukind
death the following year.
In 785, Charlemagne defeated
the Saxons led by Widukind. This
The staff is one of Bonifaces
event led to the east of Holland
constant possessions. He was
finally being incorporated into reputed to have used it to make a
Charlemagnes empire. spring well up.
Early Medieval Pottery

For the Frisians, pottery
was an important
A convert
barter good, along
being baptized.
with cattle and dye.
Fibula from
Dorestad
Relief showing a
295 Constantius Chlorus defeats the Franks at Roman galley
the battle of the Rhine delta, but allows them
to remain in the Betuwe, where they are used 600700 Dorestad becomes an
to defend the frontiers important trading settlement
AD 200 400 500 550 600 650
350400 Romans 500 The territory of the Frisians stretches Frankish denarii
leave the Low from the Zwin in Zeeland Flanders to the
Countries mouth of the Weser in Germany
Radboud, King of the Frisians

The Frisian king Radboud was forced to Dorestad
capitulate to the Frankish ruler Pippin II.
He later regained the land he had lost,
and with his army marched on
Cologne. In 734, the Frisians under
Count Bubo were again defeated at
the de Boorne River, allowing Charles
Martel to extend Frankish domain
up to the Lauwerszee.
Situated at the confluence

of the Lek and the Kromme
Rijn (by present-day Wijk
Boniface uses his bij Duurstede, see p211),
Bible to protect himself Dorestad was the most
from the sword. Pagan important trading settlement
ceremonial axe in northern Holland during
the Early Middle Ages.
It was the centre of Frisian
trade in the 7th century
and afterwards under
the Merovingians and
Carolingians. In the 9th
century, Dorestad was
repeatedly plundered by
marauding Vikings, who
sailed up the rivers in their
longboats in search of booty.
The settlements decline,
however, was due to the
damming of the Rhine against
flooding rather than because
of the Viking raids. There is no
reference in historical records
to Dorestad after 863. During
the 10th century, Dorestads
functions were taken over by
Tiel, Deventer and Utrecht. In
Wijk, the Museum Dorestad
(tel. 0343-571448) gives an
excellent idea of what life
must have been like here
during the Early Middle
Ages through its various
displays of archaeological
finds from that period, as
well as its informative
diorama, complete with
models of port houses.
Viking Sword
This sword, dubbed Adalfriids
sword, was found in the Waal.
768814 Rule of Charlemagne.

689 Pippin II defeats the Frisian king Holland is divided into pagi 925 Holland is 1007 Last Viking
Radboud at Dorestad and gains the (cantons), each of which is ruled taken over by the invasion of the
river region and Utrecht by a count German Empire Low Countries
700 750 800 900 1000
695 Willibrord becomes 754 Boniface is 834837 Dorestad Viking longboat

bishop of Frisia and killed at Dokkum by plundered at various times
establishes his see in Utrecht pagan looters by Vikings
The Emergence of Towns

In the 13th century, towns started to acquire considerable IES
L A ND
T
ECH
FR
economic power. At that time, the Low Countries were
TR
ND
U
OM
LL A
nominally under the rule of the German king, but in SD
HO
BI
Utrecht
practice local nobles ran things themselves. In the north, ZEELAND GELRE
BRABANT
the counts of Holland were the most powerful. In the mid- ERE N
Antwerpen
D
AN
14th century, their territory fell into the hands of the House VL
A
EN
UW
NE G O
of Bavaria. Disunity between Margaretha of Bavaria and her HE
son William marked the beginning of the dispute between The Low Countries (1300)
the Hooks and the Cods, which split towns as well as noble German Empire
families for one and a half centuries. France
The Fulling Industry

During the 15th century, the cloth industry flourished
in Leiden and s-Hertogenbosch. This painting by IC
Swanenburgh shows the fullers and dyers at work. In
the background to the right, inspectors are checking
the quality of the cloth.
Minting Coins
Minting rights lay
not only with the Pilgrims who had The sheriff, with his
sovereign. Local visited Santiago de distinctive chain of bells,
rulers, both church Compostela, well was the representative of the
and secular, were established as a place sovereign. Here he is on the
of pilgrimage by the 11th way to pronounce a death
entitled to mint coins. century, wore the scallop sentence, which is shown by
shell of the apostle the red pole, the rod of justice,
St James on their hats. carried by an executioner.
1185 1247 William II of

The coat of arms of
s-Hertogenbosch Holland is appointed
s-Hertogenbosch
c.1050 The first is granted its king of Germany by
dykes are built town charter the pro-Papal party
1000 1050 1100 1150 1200 1250

1165 Frederick Barbarossa
10761122 Investiture dispute places Friesland under the joint
between the German king and rule of the Bishop of Utrecht
the Pope on the right to and the Count of Holland
appoint bishops
Cruel Punishment
In the Middle Ages, Where to See the Late
barbaric punishments
were often meted out.
Medieval Netherlands
This cask on the wall of Famous monuments from this period are
the Waag in Deventer the Oude Kerk in Amsterdam (14th century,
was once used to see pp845) and the Begijnhof, which has the
immerse counterfeiters citys oldest house (1420, see p91); the Cathedral
in boiling oil. Tower (1382) and the Catharijneconvent (15th
century) in Utrecht (see p206); the Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek (11th12th centuries) and
Grain brought by farmers to the towns the St-Servaasbasiliek (11th15th centuries) in
was inspected by officials. Produce in Maastricht (see p381); the 13th-century Ridderzaal
the meat and fish markets was also and the 14th-century Gevangenpoort in The
inspected daily. An excise tax was Hague (see p224); the Pieterskerk (15th century)
charged on the basis of the inspection. and the town walls of the 12th-century castle in
Leiden (see p221); the Lange Jan (14th century,
see p253) and the restored abbey (11th15th
centuries) in Middelburg (see p254); the centre of
Deventer around the Brink and Bergkerk, including
the oldest stone house in Holland (see p324); and
the Martinitoren in Groningen (1469, see p286).
Silver Chalice
As guilds
prospered,
they attached
increasing
importance to
appearances. This
chalice is decorated with
a picture of St George
defending a maiden
against the dragon.
A Medieval Town
Demands of trade and industry meant
that towns were given all kinds of
privileges from the 13th century onwards.
Often important allies for the counts of
Holland against local feudal lords, Dutch The Guild of St George (1533)
towns were more powerful than in other This painting by Cornelis Antonisz shows
countries during this period because of the marksmen at a meal. Originally, each guild was
lack of a powerful central authority. responsible for protecting a part of the city walls;
later, special guilds were set up.
Willem 1477 Marriage of Maria of

Beukelsz c.1380 Willem 1421 The Burgundy and Habsburg
1296 Floris V 1550 Charles V
Beukelsz. Biesbosch is built Maximilian I brings together introduces the
is assassinated
invents the as a result of the St Holland and Zeeland under death penalty for
by the nobles
herring-gutter Elizabeth Day flood the House of Habsburg all forms of heresy
1300 1350 1400 1450 1500 1550

1345 Dispute between the Hooks
1306 and the Cods begins. At first a 1428 Philip the Good of 1517 Luther
Amsterdam disagreement over the successor Burgundy forces Jacoba of publishes the
gains city to William IV, it develops into a Bavaria to withdraw from 95 theses
status struggle between the feudal Holland, Zeeland and Hainaut
barons and the cities Luther
The Dutch Trading Empire

The early 17th century marked a period of expansion
worldwide for northern Holland. Within a few decades, the
Levant, the Gulf of Guinea, the Caribbean, North and South
America, the East Indies, Persia, Arabia, Japan, India and
China were all on the Dutch trading routes. The republics
merchant fleet became the worlds largest. The powerful
Dutch East India Company (VOC), established in 1602,
dominated trade with Asia, with a monopoly on all profits Dealers on the Stock Exchange
With its market traders and
from trade east of the Cape of Good Hope, while the Dutch
exchange, Amsterdam was
West India Company, established in 1621, concentrated on the undisputed trading centre
the New World and the slave trade. of Europe.
1625 The Dutch

found New
Amsterdam, later to
become New York
Purchase of Manhattan
Pieter Minnewit bought
Manhattan Island in 1625
from the Delaware Indians
for 60 guilders, 10 guns and
a brass cauldron.
1667 Abraham
Crijnssen conquers
Suriname
1627 Prince Maurits

conquers Recife
1652 Jan van de Riebeeck

founds Cape Town
The Dutch on Desjima

The Dutch trading office on
the island of Desjima was in Key
1854 the main conduit 15957 De Houtman and Keyzer
between Japan and the world.
15967 Barents and Heemskerck
1616 Le Maire and Schouten
16423 Tasman
VOC Plaque
The Dutch East India Company
(VOC) obtained sole rights to
trade for the republic in Asia. It The Silver Fleet
had the authority to make In 1628, Piet Hein captured
treaties with other powers and the Silver Fleet of Spain off
even to declare war. the north coast of Cuba.
The 80 Years War

In the second half of the 16th
century, Holland officially belonged
to the Spanish branch of the House
of Habsburg. In 1567, Philip II sent
troops to put down Protestant
unrest in Flanders and halt the
Protestant Reformation sweeping
through northern Europe; this led
Surviving the Winter in Novaya Zemlya (15967)
to a revolt against Spanish rule
During an attempt to find a northern route to the Indies,
in northern Holland and resulted
an expedition led by W Barents and J van Heemskerck ended
in years of civil war and religious
up on the coast of Novaya Zemlya. The group survived in the
strife. The 80 Years War ended
Behouden Huys, a hut built from pieces of ships.
in 1648 with the Peace of Mnster.
Statesman Johan van
Oldenbarnevelt and the Count
of Nassau, Prince Maurits, were the
main Dutch figures in the conflict
with Hollands Spanish rulers
15961597 The during the 17th century.
winter camp in
Novaya Zemlya
1641 The Dutch establish

themselves on Desjima
1624 The Dutch establish

themselves on Formosa
1658 The Dutch Johan van

establish themselves Oldenbarnevelt
in Ceylon
1619 JP Coen
founds Batavia Prince Maurits
1606 Willem Jansz
discovers Australia
1642 Abel Tasman

discovers Tasmania
The Great Voyages

While Willem Barents was
exploring the Arctic seas, de
Houtman and Keyzer set off on
the first voyages to Java. In
1606, Willem Jansz discovered
the north coast of Australia, and
in 1616, Jacob le Maire and
Willem Schouten were the first to
sail around Cape Horn. Abel
Tasman discovered Tasmania Three-Master Ship
and New Zealand in 16423. These top-of-the-line 17th-century Dutch
merchant ships required only a small crew.
The Golden Age

For the north of Holland the 17th century was a time of
Groningen
unprecedented flowering in trade, art (see pp3031) and
science. While elsewhere in Europe economies were in Amsterdam
stagnation, the republics merchant fleet brought great
prosperity, particularly to the towns of Amsterdam
Antwerpen
and Utrecht. The Amsterdam Exchange (Amsterdamse Maastricht
Wisselbank), which was founded in 1609, ensured that
Amsterdam became the financial centre of the world. The Low Countries (1650)
Trade was protected by a powerful navy, which enjoyed
Republic
significant victories under Michiel de Ruyter.
Spanish possessions
Tapestries and exquisite Germany
Johan de Witt gilded leather hangings
At the time known as the decorated the living rooms.
first stadholder-free period
(165072), the political
scene in the republic
was dominated by the
provincial governor
Johan de Witt. This
brilliant, impeccable
statesman was
murdered along with his
brother Cornelis by Orange
supporters in 1672.
View of the Weigh House in Haarlem

In the 17th century, Holland became
Europes main commodities market, with
strategic logistic and financial advantages.
Products from the Baltic Sea, southern
Europe, the Levant and Asia were loaded Oriental carpets were too Colourful clothes came into fashion
into the holds of merchant ships which valuable to put on the floor in the second half of the 17th century
came from all over the world. and so were draped over a and became a widespread object of
table or bench. study for portrait painters.
Spanish stew-kettle recovered

1559 Philip II names 1572 The Beggars 1574 The relief after the relief of Leiden
Margaretha of Parma the of the Sea take of Leiden
governor of over Den Briel
1584 Assassination 1602 Dutch East India
the Netherlands 1585 Fall of
of William of Orange Antwerp Company founded
1550 1565 1580 1595 1610
1566 1581 Northern

Iconoclastic Holland
Riots 1567 Duke of declares 1588 The States General proclaim the
Caricature painting
of the Pope as a Alva arrives independence Republic of the Seven United Netherlands
pontiff and devil in Holland from Spain
The Enlightenment Where to See

The Enlightenment, or the Age of Reason, has the Netherlands
its roots in the 16th century. In Holland, this Golden Age
emerged in the work of the natural scientists
Swammerdam and Van Leeuwenhoek, and the Good examples of
thinker Spinoza. The jurist Hugo de Groot was the 17th-century architecture
first to formulate a rational as opposed to a are the Trippenhuis in
theological basis for what he called natural law, Amsterdam (see p80), the
that is, a universal law applicable to all humans Lakenhal in Leiden (see
Antonie van everywhere, which was one of the great themes p220) and the Mauritshuis
Leeuwenhoek tackled by thinkers of the Enlightenment. in The Hague (see pp2267).
Vlissingen has the Arsenaal
(see p255); Haarlem, the Grote
Markt (see p186). Outstanding
Wan-Li China Porcelain, also known merchant houses can be seen
as egg-shell porcelain, served as a in the major trading towns of
model for blue Delft pottery. the time, such as Delft (see
pp23033) and Utrecht (for
Michiel de Ruyter example, the Oudegracht,
The admiral of the see p204).
Dutch fleet during
the Second and
Third English-
Dutch Naval
Wars was a
great tactician
held in high
esteem by
his sailors. His
nickname Bestevaer
meant Grandfather.
The Muider Circle
The artists and scholars who met at the
Interior of a home of the poet PC Hooft at Muiderslot
Patrician Home Castle are now known as the members of
This painting by Pieter the Muiderkring (Muider Circle).
de Hooch, Portrait of a
Family Making Music
Prince of Poets
(1663), shows the wealth Joost van den Vondel
of a patrician residence in (15871679), depicted
the second half of the 17th here by HG Pot as a
century. Around 1660, shepherd, is widely
portrait painting shifted regarded as the
in style from sobriety to greatest Dutch
opulence, a reflection poet and
of the flourishing economy. playwright
of the 17th
century.
17th-Century Microscope
Antonie van Leeuwenhoek made
numerous important discoveries
with his home-made microscope.
1642 Rembrandt 16501672 First stadholder-free 1698 Tsar Peter

completes The period starts when the states fail the Great visits
Night Watch to name a successor after the Amsterdam
16721702 Rule of
death of William II and Zaandam
stadholder William III
1625 1640 1655 1670 1685 1700
16651667 The Second English-

1625 Frederick-Henry 1648 The Peace of Dutch Naval War. Michiel
becomes stadholder of Mnster marks the end Adriaansz. de Ruyter scores 1689 William III becomes
Holland, Zeeland, Utrecht, of the 80 Years War legendary victories (Four Days king of England
Gelderland and Overijssel Battle, The Battle of Chatham)
Calvinism
From the end of the 1500s, Calvinism took hold in
the Netherlands as Protestant opposition to Spanish
Catholic rule. Amsterdam, which had sided with Spain,
switched loyalties in 1578 to become the fiercely
Protestant capital of an infant Dutch Republic. Reformed
Church doctrine was to have a profound influence on
Dutch history. Strict living and industriousness became
ingrained in the character of Calvinists as well as of
Catholics and agnostics and was instrumental in the
countrys prosperity during the Golden Age.
The iconoclasts use

combined efforts to topple
a huge religious image from Gold and paintings decorated
the wall.
all churches.
The Statenbijbel was the

translation of the Bible officially
recognized by the Synod of
Dordrecht (161819). The
language used in it helped to
standardize Dutch. The New
Translation (Nieuwe Vertaling)
did not appear until 1957.
The Iconoclastic Riots

Underground Calvinist preachers goaded troublemakers
into the Iconoclastic Riots of 1566, when the decorations
of Catholic churches were destroyed with great violence.
Invaluable works of religious art were lost in this way.
The interiors of Dutch churches were no longer given the
Baroque ornamentation that characterizes churches in the
rest of Europe. After all, according to the Ten Commandments
in the Bible, Thou shalt not make graven images and Thou
shalt not worship nor serve them.
Traces of the damage caused
by the iconoclasts can still be
seen today in some places,
such as this retable in Utrecht.
Where to See Calvinist

Netherlands
Strict Calvinism can be found
in the Netherlands Bible belt,
which stretches from Zeeland
and southeastern South
Holland via the Veluwe to
the cape of Overijssel and
Drenthe. The strict Sunday
worship, black clothes and
head coverings when
attending church, as well
as abstinence from modern
developments (such as
television and vaccinations),
Pieter Saenredam (15971665) painted unrivalled pictures are gradually disappearing.
of the plain Calvinist churches this one is Interior of the Sint- However, when visiting such
Odolphuskerk in Assendelft. areas, do remember that
photography and driving are
still not looked upon kindly
in Reformed Church villages.
These communities are closed,
with strong social controls.
Calvinist villages worth visiting
are Goedereede (see p245), in
Priceless
South Holland, and Staphorst
stained-glass (see p324), in Overijssel, as well
windows are as the former Zuiderzee island
systematically of Urk (see p330), where older
smashed to people continue to wear
pieces. traditional dress.
The leaders of
the Iconoclastic
Riots came from
all classes of the
population. In
addition to
fervent Calvinists,
there were also
paid helpers and
all kinds of
hangers-on
who used the
opportunity
to do some
plundering.
Early to Church by A. Alleb
Clandestine Churches
When, in 1597, the Union of Utrecht proclaimed mandatory Calvinist
services throughout the Netherlands and Zeeland, a blind eye in return
for payment was turned to other confessions. Catholics, Remonstrants
and Mennonites held their services in secret churches, which were
unrecognizable as such from the outside. They were generally held in
town houses, although later they were held in secret churches that were
built for the purpose, particularly in Amsterdam, with De Zon and De
Rode Hoed. The St Gertrudiskapel (1645) in Utrecht and Ons Lieve Heer
op Solder (1663, now the Amstelkring Museum) in Amsterdam are the
Ons Lieve Heer op Solder finest surviving early examples of these institutions.
From Republic to Kingdom

After the death of the powerful stadholder William III,
the republic no longer played an important role within
Europe. Britain took over as the principal maritime and Amsterdam
trading power. At the end of the 18th century, a long Rotterdam
dispute began between the House of Orange and

Antwerp
democratically minded patriots, which was resolved in
Brussels
favour of the latter with the founding of the Batavian
Republic (1795). After the Napoleonic era, the House of The Low Countries in 1800
Orange returned to power, this time not as stadholder Batavian Republic
but as monarch. In 1839, the borders of the present-day French territory
Netherlands were finally established.
The British ensign flying on the English
warship the Warrior, the boat which brought
William I back to the Netherlands.
William I Landing
at Scheveningen
In 1813, almost 20 years after the House of
Orange had been ousted by the patriots,
Prince William returned to the Netherlands.
He landed on the shore at Scheveningen,
the same place where his father had
departed for England. Two days later, he
was inaugurated as sovereign. In 1815, he
also claimed possession of present-day
Belgium and pronounced himself king of
the Netherlands.
Goejanverwellesluis
In 1785, the patriots took power, and
the stadholder William V and his wife
Wilhelmina of Prussia fled from The Hague.
Wilhelmina attempted to return in 1787
but was stopped at Goejanverwellesluis.
It was at this point that the Prussian king The prince is lowered from the ship in a rowboat, but a
farmers wagon from the beach picks him up to take him
decided to send troops to restore the
ashore through the surf.
power of the stadholder.
17561763 The great powers

17021747 Second 1747 William IV the Frisian
of Europe become embroiled 1791 Abolition of
stadholder-free period becomes hereditary in the Seven Years War. The
stadholder of all provinces the Dutch West
republic remains neutral India Company
1700 1720 1740 1760 1780
The city hall of 1786 The patriots take hold of

Utrecht, where the power in various towns. The rule of
1713 The Peace of Utrecht stadholder William V is restored in 17951806
Peace of Utrecht The
marks the end of the 1787 with the help of Prussia
was signed Batavian
republic as a great power
Republic
The Schools Controversy

The 19th-century schools
controversy between liberals and
denominational supporters was
over the inequality between
independent education and public
education. Under HJAM Schaepman
and Abraham Kuyper, Catholics
and Protestants joined forces
and in 1889 laid the foundations
The Siege of Bergen op Zoom for government subsidies for
During the War of Austrian Succession, the French occupied independent education.
the Southern Netherlands, which had been a possession of
Austria. In order to strengthen their hand at the peace
negotiations vis--vis the republic, in 1747 they also
annexed Zeeland Flanders and the fortified town of Bergen.
The church
of the fishing
village of
Scheveningen
is visible in the
background. Dr Schaepman Dr Kuyper
Child Labour
The Industrial Revolution led to social deprivation in
the towns. In 1875, Van Houtens child law was passed,
prohibiting children under age 12 from working as
paid labourers.
The people of The Hague were overjoyed at the return
of the prince. Celebrations were held throughout the
town. The times during which the House of Orange had
been regarded as a clique of tyrants were definitely over.
Domela
Nieuwenhuis
1830 The Belgian 1848 Revision of
1806 Louis Napoleon, 1888 First socialist,
Revolution. Nine years the constitution
brother of Napoleon I, 1885 Van Gogh paints Domela Nieuwenhuis,
later, the Netherlands and introduction of
becomes king of Holland The Potato Eaters elected to Parliament
and Belgium separate parliamentary system
1800 1820 1840 1860 1880 1900
1839 HaarlemAmsterdam 1870 Abolition

1815 The Northern and railway opens of the death
1798 Abolition of penalty
Southern Netherlands are 1886 Parliamentary
the Dutch East
united under William I 1863 Abolition inquiry reveals dire
India Company
Steam train of slavery conditions in factories
Colonialism
Dutch colonial history started in the 17th century when trading
settlements were established in Asia, Africa and America. Many
colonies were lost during the course of time, but the Dutch Indies
(Indonesia), Suriname and the Dutch Antilles remained under Dutch
rule until far into the 20th century. In the Indonesian archipelago,
Dutch power was for a long time limited to Java and the Moluccas.
It was only in 1870 that a start was made on subjugating the
remaining islands. Indonesia gained independence in 1949 and
Tortured Slave
Suriname in 1975. The Antilles, Aruba and the Netherlands are now Rebellion was
equal parts of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. cruelly punished.
Jan Pieterszoon Coen

Appointed governor-general
in 1618, Jan Pieterszoon Coen
devastated the Javanese
settlement of Jakarta in 1619,
founding in its place the new
administrative centre of Batavia. He
bolstered the position of the Dutch
East India Company on the spice
islands (the Moluccas) and is
considered one of the founding
fathers of Dutch colonialism.
Selling female slaves half-

naked at auctions was
condemned by Holland.
Slave Market in
Suriname
In total, over 300,000
slaves were shipped to
Session of the Landraad
This landraad, or joint court, is
the Dutch colony of
presided over by the assistant Suriname to work the
resident. The landraad was plantations. The slave
the civil and criminal common- trade was abolished in
law court for native Indonesians 1819, though slavery
and all non-European foreigners itself was not abolished
in the Dutch Indies. The court until 1863, making
could, with government approval, Holland the last Western
inflict the death penalty. European power to do so.
Multatuli
The writer Multatuli, in his
novel from 1860, Max
Havelaar, condemned
colonial rule in the Dutch
Indies. In the books final
chapter, the author
directly addresses King
William III, in whose name
the people of the Indies
Batavia During the 17th Century were being exploited.
This painting by Andries Beeckman shows
the fish market with the Kasteel in the
background, from which the Dutch ruled
over the strategic Sunda Strait.
The Establishment of Cape Town

In 1652, Jan van Riebeeck set up a supply
station for ships of the Dutch East India
Company en route to the Indies. The
settlement soon grew into a Dutch colony,
which was settled by immigrants from the
republic, and to a lesser extent from France
(Huguenots) and Germany. Those who moved
farther inland were later to become the Boers
(farmers) or Afrikaaners. In 1806, the Cape
Colony was taken over by the British Empire.
Kris from Java

Many travellers to the
Indies brought back
characteristic items to
Holland. The Javanese kris
was a favourite souvenir.
The auctioneer sits

taking notes at the table.
The slaves whom he is Colonial Wares
selling were delivered by From the end of the 19th
special traders. Until 1734, century, a number of Dutch
slaves were auctioned
exclusively by the Dutch
grocers offered for sale
West India Company, colonial wares such as coffee,
which had the monopoly tea, rice, sugar and various
on the slave trade. exotic eastern herbs and
spices, including the much-
prized peppercorns, cloves,
nutmeg, mace and cinnamon.
The Modern Netherlands

Neutrality during World War I meant that the Netherlands
survived the first decades of the 20th century relatively
unscathed. However, the economic crisis of the 1930s and
particularly World War II left deep wounds. In 1957, as the Amsterdam
country was rebuilding, it became one of the six founding Rotterdam
members of the European Economic Community (EEC).

The Dutch welfare state flourished in the 1960s and Maastricht
1970s, and Amsterdams tradition of tolerance made it

a haven for the hippy culture. In a survey carried out by The Netherlands Today
the United Nations in 2015, the Netherlands ranked fifth
in the list of best countries to live in.
1917 The magazine De Stijl

is set up by figures from
the movement of the same
name, such as Theo van
Doesburg, Piet Mondriaan
and JJP Oud
1949 Holland
recognizes the
19301940 During independence
the economic crisis of its former 1953 On 1 February, storms
of the 1930s, colony Indonesia cause severe flooding in Zeeland
hundreds of and South Holland, drowning
thousands of Dutch more than 1,800 people
are unemployed
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960

TIMELINE
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1926 Road tax

1918 German introduced.
kaiser Wilhelm II Approximately
flees to Holland, 10,000 lorries
where he is and 30,000
cars are on 1948 Willem Drees
given asylum Sr becomes prime
the roads
of Holland minister of four
successive Catholic
socialist Drees
cabinets and lays the
foundations of the
Dutch welfare state
1962 The release of

Jan Vrijmans film De
1934 KLMs plane Uiver, a DC-2, wins the werkelijkheid van
handicap section in the London Karel Appel brings
Melbourne air race the postwar Dutch
painter to the
attention of the
general public. Karel
Appel (b. 1921)
caused a sensation
with his statement:
Ill just mess
something up
1940 On 10 May,
Nazi troops
enter Holland.
Rotterdam
capitulates on
14 May. Despite
this, the city
is bombed
2000 The Dutch

team at the Sydney
1985 A government
Olympics wins a
decision to deploy 48
record 25 medals,
NATO cruise missiles on
including 12 golds
Dutch territory causes a
storm of opposition. The
Komit Kruisraketten Nee
(anti-cruise coalition)
submits a petition of 3.5
million signatures
to Prime Minister
1995 Paul Crutzen
Lubbers in October
is awarded the
Nobel Prize for
Chemistry for his
ground-breaking
investigations of 2002 On 2 February Crown Prince
the ozone layer Wilem-Alexander marries Argentinian
Mxima Zorreguieta in Amsterdams
1975 Holland Beurs van Berlage
recognizes the
independence
of its former 2010 Geert Wilders PVV
colony Suriname gains the most seats in
the elections
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
2004 On 2
1992 Under Dutch
November,
presidency, the
1980 The KVP, ARP controversial
European partners
and CHU combine filmmaker Theo 2013 Willem-Alexander
sign the draft
to form the CDA, Van Gogh is becomes king of the
Maastricht Treaty in
the large Christian murdered by a Netherlands
1991. In 1992, the
Democratic Party radical Islamist,
treaty, under which
spurring a national
the European
debate on
Community
immigration
becomes the
European Union, 2002 Right-wing politician
is ratified Pym Fortuyn is assassinated
on 6 May
2001 The Netherlands is
the first country to legalize
same-sex marriages
1980 The coronation of Queen

Beatrix on 30 April is accompanied
by heavy battles between police
and anti-monarchy demonstrators
and squatters
1971 Ajax wins

the First Division
European Cup at
Wembley Stadium
in London with star
player Johan Cruijff.
The club continues
as champion in
1972 and 1973
AMSTERDAM
Introducing Amsterdam 6673

Oude Zijde 7485
Nieuwe Zijde 8697
Canal Ring 98119
Museum Quarter 120133
Outside the Centre 134147
Shopping & Entertainment 148153
Street Finder 154163
66 AMSTERDAM
Amsterdams Best: Canals and Waterways

From the grace and elegance of the waterside mansions
along the Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) to the rows of
converted warehouses on Brouwersgracht and the
charming houses on Reguliersgracht, the citys canals
and waterways embody the very spirit of Amsterdam.
They are spanned by many beautiful bridges, including
the famous Magere Brug (see pp11819), a traditionally
styled lift bridge. You can also relax at a canalside caf Brouwersgracht
or bar and watch an array of boats float by. The banks of this charming canal
are lined with houseboats, cosy
cafs and warehouses.
Bloemgracht
There is a great variety of
architecture along this lovely,
tree-lined canal in the Jordaan,
including a row of houses
with step gables.
CANAL
RING
Prinsengracht
The best way to see
all the beautiful
buildings along
Amsterdams longest
17th-century canal
is by bicycle.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Leidsegracht
Relax at a pavement Keizersgracht
caf along the exclusive A view of this canal can
Leidsegracht. be had from any of
its bridges. If frozen in
winter, this canal is
used for ice skating by
many Amsterdammers,
both young and old.
Faades of buildings along the Damrak canal
INTRODUCING AMSTERDAM 67
Singel
The Poezenboot, a boat for stray
cats, is just one of the many
sights to be found along the
Singel, whose distinctive,
curved shape established the
horseshoe contours of the
Canal Ring.
Entrepotdok
The warehouses on the
Entrepotdok (see p138)
were redeveloped in the
1980s. The quayside is now
lined in summer with lively
caf terraces that overlook
an array of houseboats and
pleasure craft.
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
OUDE
ZIJDE
Herengracht
Known as the twin brothers,
these matching neck-gabled
houses at Nos. 409411 are
two of the prettiest houses on
the citys grandest canal.
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Reguliersgracht
Many crooked, brick
buildings line this pretty
canal, which was cut in 1664.
The statue of a stork, located
at No. 92, is symbolic of Amstel
parental responsibility and This river is still a busy thoroughfare,
commemorates a 1571 with barges and, above all, many
bylaw protecting this bird. sightseeing boats.
68 AMSTERDAM
The Golden Age of Amsterdam

The 17th century was truly a Golden Age for Amsterdam. The
population soared; three great canals, bordered by splendid
houses, were built in a triple ring round the city; and scores of
painters and architects were at work. Fortunes were made and
lost, and this early capitalism produced many paupers, who
were cared for by charitable institutions a radical idea for the
time. In 1648, an uneasy peace was formalized with Catholic Spice Trade
Spain, causing tension between Amsterdams Calvinist In this old print, a VOC spice
burgomasters and the less religious House of Orange, which trader arrives in Bantam.
was dominant elsewhere in the country.
Livestock and grain trading
Self-Portrait as
the Apostle Paul (1661)
Rembrandt (see p80) was
one of many artists working
in Amsterdam in the mid-
17th century.
The new Stadhuis (now

the Koninklijk Paleis) was
being constructed behind
wooden scaffolding.
Nieuwe Kerk, 1395 (see p90)
Dam Square in 1656

The Love
Letter (1666) Money poured into Amsterdam at this
Genre painting time of civic expansion. Holland was
(see p127), such as active overseas, colonizing Indonesia,
this calm domestic and the spice trade brought enormous
interior by Jan wealth. The Dutch East India Company
Vermeer, became (VOC), the principal trade organization
popular as society in Holland, prospered gold seemed
grew more almost as common as water. Dutch
sophisticated. Jan painter Jan Lingelbach (c.162474)
Steen, Honthorst depicted the citys Dam square as
and Terborch were a busy, thriving and cosmopolitan
other famous market, brimming with traders and
genre painters.
wealthy merchants.
Delft Tiles
Delicate flower paintings were
popular themes on 17th-century
Delft tiles (see pp323), used as
decoration in wealthy households.
Floras Bandwagon (1636)

Many allegories were painted Where to See
during tulip mania. This satirical 17th-century
oil by HG Pot symbolizes the Amsterdam
idiocy of investors who paid for
rare bulbs with their weight in Many public buildings, such
gold, forcing prices up until as churches and palaces,
the market collapsed. sprang up as Amsterdam
grew more wealthy. The
Westerkerk (see p114) was
designed by Hendrick de
Keyser in 1620; the Lutherse
Kerk (see p94) by Adriaan
Dortsman in 1671. Elias
Commodities Bouman built
weighed at the Portugees
the Waag Isralitische
Synagoge (see
Ships sailing up the Damrak p82) in 1675 for
members of the
citys immigrant
Sephardic
Spices Jewish
A load of spices was community.
worth a fortune in the
17th century. The VOC
traded in a great variety
of these costly spices,
primarily pepper,
nutmeg, cloves, mace
and cinnamon.
As early as 1611
the VOC was the Apollo (c.1648) Artus
largest importer Quelliens statue is in
of spices. the South Gallery of the
Koninklijk Paleis (see pp923).
Construction of the palace,
a masterwork by Jacob van
Campen, began in 1648.
Cargo unloaded Turkish traders Pepper, nutmeg, cloves,

by cranes mace, cinnamon
VOC
In the
Scheepvaart
Museum (see
pp1367), an
entire room is
dedicated to
the Dutch East
India Company.
Giving the Bread

This painting by
Willem van Valckert
shows the citys
needy receiving Museum het
alms. A rudimen Rembrandthuis (1606)
tary welfare Jacob van Campen
system was added the pediment
introduced in in 1633 (see p80).
the 1640s.
70 AMSTERDAM
Amsterdams Best: Museums

For a fairly small city, Amsterdam has a
surprisingly large number of museums and Anne Frank Huis
galleries. The quality and variety of the Anne Franks photo is
exhibited in the house
collections are impressive, covering everything where she hid during
from bibles and beer to shipbuilding and World War II.
space travel. Many are housed in buildings
of historical or architectural interest. The
Rijksmuseum, with its Gothic faade, is a city
landmark, and Rembrandts work is exhibited
in his original home.
Amsterdam Museum
A wealth of historical
information is on display here.
Once an orphanage for boys,
it is depicted in Governesses at
the Burgher Orphanage (1683)
by Adriaen Backer (see pp967).
Rijksmuseum
An extensive collection of
paintings by Dutch masters
can be seen in the
countrys largest national
museum. Jan van Huysums
CANAL
Still Life with Fruit and
RING
Flowers, dating from about
1730, is a fine example
(see pp1269).
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Stedelijk Museum
Gerrit Rietvelds simple Steltman chair
(1963) is one of many exhibits at this
modern art museum (see pp1323).
Van Gogh Museum

Van Goghs Self-portrait with Straw Hat (1870)
hangs in this large, stark building, built in 1973 to
house the bulk of his work. A chic glass entrance
hall was added in 2015 (see pp13031).
Koninklijk Paleis
The royal palace on
the Dam, a former
town hall designed
in 1648 by Jacob van
Campen, is still
regularly used today
by the queen on
official occasions
(see pp923).
NEMO Science Museum
This amazing building, designed in
the form of a ship, overhangs the
water by 30 m (99 ft) and houses an
educational centre for science and
technology (see pp14041).
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
Scheepvaart Museum
OUDE This maritime museum is
ZIJDE decorated with reliefs relating to
the citys maritime history. Moored
alongside is a replica of the East
Indiaman, Amsterdam, which is
open to the public (see pp1367).
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Verzetsmuseum
Located in the Plantage, this
museum documents and
Joods Historisch Museum commemorates the activities
Four adjoining synagogues are linked of Dutch Resistance workers
to form this museum (see p81). in World War II (see p145).
72 AMSTERDAM
Amsterdams Best: Cafs

Amsterdam is a city of cafs and bars, about 1,500
in all. Each area has something to offer, from
friendly and relaxed brown cafs a traditional
Dutch local pub characterized by dark wooden
panelling and furniture, low ceilings, dim lighting
and smoke-stained ceilings to lively and crowded
De Drie Fleschjes
designer bars. Each caf and bar has some special In one of the oldest pubs
attraction: a large range of beers, live music, (1650) of Amsterdam, you
canalside terraces, art exhibitions, board games can choose from a wide
and pool tables or simply a brand of gezelligheid, variety of gins.
the unique Dutch concept of cosiness.
Caf Chris
This brown caf,
allegedly the oldest
caf in the Jordaan,
is patronized
by regular
customers (artists
and students).
CANAL
Walem RING
This designer eatery, one of
Amsterdams oldest cafs,
has a sunny canal terrace
and is popular with the
international crowd.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Groot Melkhuis
Originally a farm dating back to
1874, this modern caf is very
popular, especially on warm
summer days.
Hoppe
The dark wooden interior and tang
of cigar smoke in the air are the
essence of this classic brown caf,
situated on the lively Spui.
Karpershoek
This lively caf (the oldest caf in
Amsterdam) is close to the Centraal
Station and is frequented by travellers
looking for a cup of coffee.
Kapitein Zeppos
This caf, frequented by
trendy Amsterdammers,
NIEUWE
often hosts live concerts
ZIJDE on Sunday afternoons.
OUDE
ZIJDE
De Jaren
Popular with students,
0 metres 500 this trendy two-storey
0 yards 500 caf has a superb view of
the Amstel and a wide
selection of newspapers.
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3
Grand Caf Soccerworld

In the caf of the arena you can
admire the football shirts of the
famous Ajax team.
AMSTERDAM 75
OUDE ZIJDE
The eastern half of Amsterdam became of Jewish refugees from Portugal. The oldest
known as the Oude Zijde (Old Side). of the four synagogues, now containing the
Originally it occupied a narrow strip on Joods Historisch Museum, dates from this
the east bank of the Amstel river, running period. These were central to Jewish life
between Damrak and the Oudezijds in the city for centuries. During the Golden
Voorburgwal. At its heart was built the Oude Age (see pp545), the Oude Zijde was an
Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the important commercial centre. Boats could
early 15th century the Oude Zijde began an sail up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt,
eastward expansion that continued into the where goods were weighed at the Waag
1600s. This growth was fuelled by an influx before being sold at the market.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Opera Houses t Portugees-Isralitische Synagoge
Monuments q Stadhuis-Muziektheater a Oude Kerk pp845
2 Waag Museums Streets and Markets
5 Agnietenkapel 1 Red Light District
4 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum
6 Oudemanhuispoort 3 Nieuwmarkt
0 Museum het Rembrandthuis
7 De Waalse Kerk w Waterlooplein
r Joods Historisch Museum
8 Trippenhuis p Zeedijk
y Pintohuis Churches and Synagogues
u Montelbaanstoren 9 Zuiderkerk
i Scheepvaarthuis e Mozes en Aronkerk
o Schreierstoren
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0 metres 250
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The impressive Oude Kerk, Amsterdams oldest building For map symbols see back flap
76 AMSTERDAM
Street-by-Street: University District

The University of Amsterdam, founded
1 . Red Light District
in 1877, is predominantly located in the
The sex industry brings
peaceful, southwestern part of the Oude billions of euros to
Zijde. The universitys roots lie in the former Amsterdam every year.
Athenaeum Illustre, which was founded
in 1632 in the Agnietenkapel. Beyond
Damstraat, the bustling Red Light District
meets the Nieuwmarkt, where the
15th-century Waag evokes a medieval air.
South of the Nieuwmarkt, Museum Het
Rembrandthuis gives a fascinating insight
into the life of the citys most famous artist.
4 Hash Marihuana
Hemp Museum
This museum
showcases
L
L
A
marijuana
W
A
through
G
W
R
the ages.
U
G
B
R
U
R
B
VOO
R
E
T
H
S
C
IJD
A
E Z
OUD
RU
SL
AN
D
S
JD
7 De Waalse Kerk
Built in the early
ZI
1400s, this church

DE
was frequently visited

OU
by Vincent van Gogh.

Services are still con-
ducted here today.
5 Agnietenkapel
Like many buildings in this
area, the chapel belongs to
the University of Amsterdam.
House (1610), unusually

facing three canals
6 Oudemanhuispoort
The spectacles carved on the
gateway into this 18th-century
almshouse for elderly men Lift bridge over
symbolize old age. Groenburgwal
OUDE ZIJDE 77
3 Nieuwmarkt
8 Trippenhuis Despite redevelopment NIEUWE
Although it appears to southeast of this once- ZUIDE
be a single 17th-century important market square, the

mansion, this building is Nieuwmarkt itself is still OUIDE
in fact two houses, the bordered by many fine ZIJDE
middle windows being 17th- and 18th-century

false to preserve gabled houses. CANAL
the symmetry. RING
NI
M AE U W Locator Map
RK
T See Street Finder maps 1, 2 & 5
L
WA
RG
BU
2 . Waag
RS
Amsterdams only remaining medieval

IE
gatehouse now houses a caf-restaurant.

EN
OV
KL
9 Zuiderkerk
This prominent city landmark
is now used as a wedding and
conference venue.
RA Key
AM
GR
AC Recommended route
HT
L
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A
W
P L T E
GW
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NB
0 metres 50
EN
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0 yards 50
A
ZW
GR
0 . Museum het
Rembrandthuis
Hundreds of
Rembrandts etchings
are on display in the
artists former home.
78 AMSTERDAM
1 Red Light District 2 Waag

Map 5 A1. v 4, 9, 16. Nieuwmarkt 4. Map 2 E5. v 4, 9, 16.
q Nieuwmarkt. Closed Upper Rooms:
Barely clad prostitutes bathed closed to the public.
in a red neon glow and touting
for business at their windows The multiturreted Waag is
is one of the defining images the citys oldest surviving
of modern Amsterdam. The gatehouse. Built in 1488, it
citys Red Light District, referred was then, and often still is,
to locally as de Walletjes (the called St Antoniespoort. Public
little walls), is concentrated on executions were held here, and
the Oude Kerk (see pp845), condemned prisoners awaited
although it extends as far as their fate in the little gallows
Warmoesstraat to the west, room. In 1617, the building
the Zeedijk to the north, the became the public weigh
Kloveniersburgwal to the east Entrance to one of the clubs in the Red house (waaggebouw). Peasants
and then along the line of Light District had their produce weighed
Damstraat to the south. here and paid tax accordingly.
Prostitution in Amsterdam Today, the whole area is criss Various guilds used the upper
dates back to the citys emer crossed by a network of narrow rooms of each tower. From
gence as a port in the 13th lanes, dominated by garish sex 1619 the Guild of Surgeons had
century. By 1478, prostitution shops, seedy clubs and unsavoury a meeting room and anatomy
had become so widespread that characters. At night, the little theatre here. They added the
attempts were made to contain alleys assume a somewhat central octagonal tower in
it. Prostitutes straying outside sinister aspect, and it is unwise 1691. Rembrandts Anatomy
their designated area were to wander away from the main Lesson of Dr Nicholaes Tulp, now
marched back to the sound streets. But by day, hordes of in the Mauritshuis (see pp2267),
of pipe and drum. visitors generate a festive buzz, and The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan
A century later, following and amid the sleaze there are Deijman, in the Amsterdam
the Alteration, the Calvinists interesting cafs, bars, rest Museum (see pp967), were
(see pp567) tried to outlaw aurants and beautiful canalside commissioned by guild members
prostitution altogether. Their houses to be discovered. The and then hung here.
attempts were halfhearted, city council is trying to make the The weigh house closed in
and by the mid17th century area more culturally attractive the early 19th century and the
prostitution was openly toler by cutting down on window Waag has since served as a fire
ated. In 1850, Amsterdam had a prostitutes, closing the seediest station and two city museums.
population of 200,000, and clubs and encouraging nonsex It is now home to the restaurant
more than 200 brothels. industry businesses. In de Waag.
The 15th-century Waag dominating the Nieuwmarkt, with an antique market on the right
OUDE ZIJDE 79
used the plant for medicines forty portraits of European

and clothing. It was first used in humanist scholars, including
the Netherlands, according to a one of Erasmus (14661536).
herbal manual of 1554, as a cure The Agnietenkapel once
for earache. housed the University of
Until the late 19th century, Amsterdam Museum; now the
however, hemp was the main museums collection can be
source of fibre for rope, and seen in Oude Turfmarkt 129
was therefore important in the (next to the Allard Pierson
Dutch shipping industry. Other Museum). A conference centre
Part of the commemorative photo display exhibits relate to the psychoac- has taken its place.
in Nieuwmarkt metro station tive properties of this plant. They
include an intriguing array
3 Nieuwmarkt of pipes and bongs (smoking
Map 2 E5. v 4, 9, 16. q Nieuwmarkt.
devices), along with displays that
Antiques market: Open MaySep: 9am explain smuggling methods.
5pm Sun. ( Organic farmers market: The museum also has a small
Open 9am5pm Sat. cultivation area where plants
are grown under artificial light.
An open, paved square, the Police sometimes raid and take
Nieuwmarkt is flanked to the west away exhibits, so there may be
by the Red Light District. With the occasional gaps in displays.
top end of the Geldersekade, it
forms Amsterdams Chinatown.
The Waag dominates the square, 5 Agnietenkapel
and construction of this gateway
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 231. Map 2 D5.
led to the sites development in v 4, 9, 14, 16. Closed to the public.
the 15th century as a market-
place. When the city expanded The Agnietenkapel was part
in the 17th century (see pp689), of the convent of St Agnes
the square took on its present until 1578 when it was closed
dimensions and was called the after the Alteration. In 1632,
Nieuwmarkt. It retains an array of the Athenaeum Illustre, the Entrance to Agnietenkapel, now a
17th- and 18th-century gabled precursor of the University university conference centre
houses. True to tradition, an of Amsterdam, took over the
antiques market is held on building and by the mid-
Sundays during the summer. 17th century it was a centre 6 Oudemanhuis
The old Jewish Quarter of scientific learning. It also poort
leads off the square down housed the municipal library Between Oudezijds Achterburgwal
St Antoniesbreestraat. In the until the 1830s. The and Kloveniersburgwal. Map 2 D5.
1970s, many houses here were Agnietenkapel itself dates from v 4, 9, 14, 16. Book market:
demolished to make way for 1470, and is one of the few Open 10am5pm MonSat.
the metro, sparking off clashes Gothic chapels to have survived
between protesters and police. the Alteration. During The Oudemanhuispoort was
The action of conservationists restoration from 1919 to 1921, once the entrance to old peoples
persuaded the council to adopt elements of the Amsterdam almshouses (Oudemannenhuis),
a policy of renovating rather School architecture were built in 1754. Today the building
than redeveloping old buildings. introduced (see pp1467). is part of the University of
Photographs of their protests Despite these changes Amsterdam.The pediment
decorate the metro station. and long periods over the gateway in
of secular use, the Oudezijds
the building Achterburgwal
4 Hash Marihuana
still has the features a pair
Hemp Museum feel of a of spectacles,
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148. Franciscan a symbol
Map 2 D5. Tel 020-6248926. v 4, 9, chapel. The large of old age.
14, 16. q Nieuwmarkt. Open 10am auditorium on the Crest of Amsterdam, Trading inside this
10pm. Closed 27 Apr. & = first floor is the oldest Oudemanhuispoort covered walkway dates
in the city. It has a from 1757 and today
This museum, which has a lovely ceiling, painted with there is a market for second-hand
branch in Barcelona, charts the Renaissance motifs and a books. Although the building is
history of hemp (marijuana). portrait of Minerva, the Roman closed to the public, visitors may
Exhibits refer back 8,000 years to goddess of wisdom and the enter the 18th-century courtyard
early Asiatic civilizations, which arts. The walls are hung with via the arcade.
80 AMSTERDAM
7 De Waalse Kerk
Walenpleintje 157159. Map 2 D5.
Tel 020-6232074. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
q Nieuwmarkt. Open for service
and events only. 5 11am Sun.
The origin of this church dates

back to 1409, when it started as
a convent for laymen monks and
was known as Paulusbroederkerk
(Brother Paul Monastery). After
1550 it was handed over to
the Huguenots Protestant
refugees from France and
was renamed glise Wallone.
Services and regular lectures are
still conducted here in French.
The building boasts splendid
acoustics and an impressive
organ built by Christiaan Mller,
one of the finest remaining in the
world. The church is often used
for concerts and various events.
8 Trippenhuis
Kloveniersburgwal 29. Map 2 E5.
v 4, 9, 14, 16. q Nieuwmarkt.
Closed to the public.
Justus Vingboons designed

this ornate Classical mansion,
completed in 1662. It appears
to be one house: it is in fact two.
The faade, outlined by eight The spire of the Zuiderkerk, a prominent city landmark
Corinthian columns, features
false middle windows. The The Zuiderkerk ceased to were conducted in the attic. A
house was designed for arms function as a church in 1929. fine collection of Rembrandts
merchants Lodewijk and It was restored in 1988 and is etchings and drawings includes
Hendrick Trip; the chimneys now a commercial venue for various self-portraits. There are
look like cannons. The citys art events and private dinners. also landscapes, nude studies,
collection was housed here in The surrounding community religious and crowd scenes, and
181785, when it moved to the housing includes the Pentagon sketches of the artist with his
Rijksmuseum (see pp1269). by Theo Bosch. wife. The house has undergone
Trippenhuis now houses the historically accurate restoration
Dutch Academy. Opposite at and a further wing has been
0 Museum het
No. 26 is the Kleine Trippenhuis opened to the public.
(1698). Only 2.5 m (7 ft) wide, Rembrandthuis
it has detailed cornicing, Jodenbreestraat 46. Map 2 E5.
including two carved sphinxes. Tel 020-5200400. v 9, 14.
q Nieuwmarkt. Open 10am6pm
daily. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
9 Zuiderkerk & = - 8 rembrandthuis.nl
Zuiderkerkhof 72. Map 2 E5. Tel 020-

5527987. v 9, 14. q Nieuwmarkt. Rembrandt worked and taught
zuiderkerk.amsterdam.nl in this house from 1639 until
1660. He lived in the ground-floor
Designed by Hendrick de Keyser rooms with his wife, Saskia, who
in 1603 in the Renaissance style, died here in 1642, leaving the
the Zuiderkerk was the first artist with their only surviving
Calvinist church to open in child, a baby son, Titus.
Amsterdam after the Alteration. Many of Rembrandts most
The spire has columns, decora- famous paintings were created Self-portrait by Rembrandt with his wife,
tive clocks and an onion dome. in the first-floor studio. Lessons Saskia (1636)
OUDE ZIJDE 81
q Stadhuis w Waterlooplein figures depicted on the gable

Muziektheater Map 5 B2. v 9, 14. q Waterlooplein.
stones of the original building.
Market: Open 9am5pm MonFri, These are now set into the
Waterlooplein 22. Map 5 B2. v 4, rear wall.
9, 14. q Waterlooplein. Stadhuis: 8:30am5pm Sat.
The church was restored in
Tel 020-6241111. Open 8:30am 1990, its twin wooden towers
The Waterlooplein dates from
4pm MonFri (free concerts SepMay:
1882, when two canals were painted to look like sandstone.
12:30pm Tue). Muziektheater: Tel 020-
filled in to create a market It is now used for exhibitions,
6255455. See Entertainment pp15051.
7 8 hetmuziektheater.nl square. The site was originally public meetings and concerts.
known as Vlooyenburg, an
Few buildings in Amsterdam artificial island built in the 17th
caused as much controversy as century to house Jewish settlers.
the new Stadhuis (city hall) and The original market disappeared
Muziektheater (opera house). during World War II when most
Nicknamed the Stopera by of the Jewish residents of
protesters, the plan required Amsterdam were transported
the destruction of dozens of east by the Nazis. After the war,
medieval houses, which were a popular flea market grew up
virtually all that remained of in its place, and today the
the original Jewish quarter, northern end of the square still
and the temporary relocation hosts a lively mix of stalls.
of a popular market. This led
to running battles between The central hall in the Grote Synagoge,
squatters and the police. eMozes en which opened in 1671
The building, completed Aronkerk r Joods Historisch
in 1988, is a huge confection Waterlooplein 205. Map 5 B2.
of red brick, marble and Tel 020-6221305. v 9, 14. Museum
glass. A mural illustrating the q Waterlooplein. Closed to the Jonas Daniel Meijerplein 24.
Normaal Amsterdams Peil is public except for exhibitions. Map 5 B2. Tel 020-5310310. v 9, 14.
shown on the arcade linking 4 Muziektheater. q Waterlooplein.
the two parts of the complex. Designed by Flemish architect Open 11am5pm daily. Closed 27 Apr,
The complex has the largest T Suys the Elder in 1841, Mozes Jewish New Year, Yom Kippur. & 7
auditorium in the country, en Aronkerk was built on - 8 on request, incl. for the visually
and it is also home to the the site of a hidden Catholic handicapped. 9 = jhm.nl
Netherlands national opera church. The later church took its
and ballet companies. name from the Old Testament This complex of four
synagogues, built by Ashkenazi
Jews in the 17th and 18th
centuries, opened as a museum
in 1987. The synagogues were
central to Jewish life here, until
the devastation of World War II
left them empty. Restored in the
1980s, they are connected by
internal walkways. Displays of
art and religious artifacts depict
Jewish culture and the history
of Judaism in the Netherlands.
Highlights include the Grote
Synagoge, its hall lined with
galleries; and the Holy Ark
(1791) from Enkhuizen (see
p182), which dominates the
Nieuwe Synagoge and holds
two 18th-century silver Torah
shields and three velvet mantles.
Also not to be missed is the
1734 Haggadah containing
the Passover order of service.
The buildings were renovated
in 2006, when a basement print
room was created, and one of
the synagogues turned into a
Eclectic goods on offer at the Waterlooplein market childrens museum.
82 AMSTERDAM
t Portugees- He had it remodelled over the

Isralitische next decades to a design by Elias
Bouman, and it is one of the few
Synagoge private residences in Amsterdam
Mr Visserplein 3. Map 5 B2. Tel 020- to follow an Italianate style. The
6245351. v 9, 14. q Waterlooplein. exterior design was reworked
Open AprOct: 10am4pm SunFri; from 1675 to 1680. Six imposing
NovMar: 10am4pm SunThu, 10am pilasters break up the severe,
2pm Fri. Closed Jewish hols, 27 Apr. cream faade into five recessed
& 8 call 020-5310380 to book 7 sections, and the cornice is
= portugesesynagoge.nl
topped by a blind balustrade
Elias Boumans design for concealing the roof. Inside, the
the Portugees-Isralitische painted ceiling is decorated
Synagoge is said to be inspired with birds and cherubs.
by the Temple of Solomon In the 1970s, the house was
in Jerusalem. Built for the scheduled for demolition One of many stone carvings on the
wealthy Portuguese Sephardic because it stood in the way of Scheepvaarthuis faade
community of Amsterdam and a newly planned main road.
inaugurated in 1675, the huge Concerted protest saved the i Scheepvaarthuis
brick building has a rectangular building and, until 2012, it Prins Hendrikkade 108. Map 2 E4.
ground plan with the Holy housed a branch of the v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17. q Centraal
Ark in the southeast corner Amsterdam Public Library. Station. Open Sun. 8 call 020-
facing towards Jerusalem, and 6868595 to book hetschip.nl
the tebah (the podium from
which the service is led) at u Montelbaanstoren Built as an office complex in
the opposite end. Oude Waal/Oudeschans 2.
1916, the Scheepvaarthuis
The wooden, barrel-vaulted Map 5 B1. v 9, 14. q Nieuwmarkt. (shipping house) is regarded
ceiling is supported by four Closed to the public. as the first true example of
Ionic columns. The interior Amsterdam School architecture
of the synagogue, with its The lower portion of the (see pp1467). It was designed by
pews made of mahogany, is Montelbaanstoren was built Piet Kramer (18811961), Johan
illuminated by more than 1,000 in 1512 and formed part of van der May (18781949) and
candles and 72 windows. Amsterdams medieval fortifi- Michel de Klerk (18841923) for
cations. It lay just beyond the city a group of shipping companies
wall, protecting the citys wharves which no longer wanted to
on the newly built St Antoniesdijk conduct business on the quay.
(now the Oudeschans) from the The imposing triangular
neighbouring Gelderlanders. building has a prow-like front
The octagonal structure and and is crowned by a statue
open-work timber steeple were of Neptune, his wife and four
both added by Hendrick de female figures representing
Keyser in 1606. His decorative
addition bears a close resem-
blance to the spire of the Oude
Kerk, designed by Joost Bilhamer,
which was built 40 years earlier
(see pp845). In 1611, the tower
began to list, prompting
Amsterdammers to attach ropes
to the top and pull it right again.
Italianate faade of the Pintohuis, now Sailors from the Dutch East
a centre for culture and literature India Company would gather
at the Montelbaanstoren before
y Pintohuis being ferried in small boats
Sint Antoniesbreestraat 69.
down the IJ to the massive
Map 2 E5. Tel 020-6243184. v 9, 14. East Indies-bound sailing ships,
q Nieuwmarkt. Open 11:30am anchored further out in deep
6:30pm MonFri, 1:305pm Sat. water to the north.
Closed Sun. The building appears in a num-
ber of etchings by Rembrandt,
Isaac de Pinto, a wealthy and is still a popular subject for
Portuguese merchant, bought artists. It used to house the offices
the Pintohuis in 1651 for the then of the Amsterdam water authority The medieval Montelbaanstoren, with its
enormous sum of 30,000 guilders. but is currently unoccupied. decorative timber steeple
OUDE ZIJDE 83
the four points of the compass.

No expense was spared on
the construction and internal
decoration of the building, and
local dock workers came to
regard the building as a symbol
of capitalism. The doors, stairs,
window frames and interior
walls are festooned with nautical
images, such as sea horses,
dolphins and anchors. Beautiful
stained-glass skylights are also
decorated with images of sailing
ships, maps and compasses.
The Scheepvaarthuis is now
a luxury hotel, the Grand Htel
Amrth, which offers guided
tours for groups.
o Schreierstoren
Prins Hendrikkade 9495. Map 2 E4.
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13, 16, 17. q Centraal
Station. Closed to the public.
The Schreierstoren (weepers

tower) was a defensive structure
forming part of the medieval
city walls, dating from 1480. It
was one of the few fortifications
not to be demolished as the The Schreierstoren, part of the original city fortifications
city expanded beyond its
medieval boundaries in the p Zeedijk the edge of the citys Red Light
17th century. The distinctive Map 2 E4. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17.
District, and in the 1960s and
building now houses a q Nieuwmarkt, Centraal Station. 1970s it became notorious as
basement caf that offers a centre for drug-dealing and
tastings of genuine sailors gin. Along with the Nieuwendijk street crime. However, following
Popular legend states that the and the Haarlemmerdijk, the an extensive clean-up campaign
tower derived its name from the Zeedijk (sea dyke) formed in the 1980s, the Zeedijk is
weeping (schreien in the original part of Amsterdams original much improved. Architect Fred
Dutch) of women who came fortifications. Built in the early Greves has built a Chinese
here to wave their men off to 1300s, some 30 years after Buddhist temple, Fo Kuang Shan.
sea. It is more likely, however, Amsterdam had been granted Plaques on the gables of
that the title has a less romantic its city charter, these defences some of the streets cafs reveal
origin and comes from the took the form of a canal moat their former use the red boot
towers position on a sharp with piled-earth ramparts at No. 17 indicates that it was
(screye or scherpe), 90-degree reinforced by wooden palisades. once a cobblers.
bend in the old town walls. The As the city grew in prosperity
earliest of four wall plaques, and its boundaries expanded,
dated 1569, adds considerably canals were filled in and the
to the confusion by depicting a dykes became obsolete. The
weeping woman alongside the paths that ran alongside them
inscription scrayer hovck, which became the streets and alleys
means sharp corner. which bear their names today.
In 1609, Henry Hudson set One of the two remaining
sail from here in an attempt wooden-fronted houses in the
to discover a new and faster city is at No. 1. It was built in the
trading route to the East Indies. mid-1500s as a hostel for sailors
Instead, he unintentionally and is much restored. Opposite
discovered the river in North is St Olofskapel, built in 1445 and
America, which still bears his named after the first Christian
name. A bronze plaque, laid king of Norway and Denmark.
in 1927, commemorates By the 1600s, the Zeedijk had The Zeedijk, today a lively street with
Hudsons voyage. become a slum. The area is on plenty of restaurants, bars and small shops
84 AMSTERDAM
a Oude Kerk
The origins of the Oude Kerk date from the early 13th century,
when a wooden church was built on a sand bank. The present
Gothic structure is 14th century and has grown from a single-
aisled church into a basilica. As it expanded, the building
became a gathering place for traders and a refuge for the poor.
Paintings and statuary were destroyed after the Alteration in
1578, but the gilded ceiling and stained-glass windows remain.
The Great Organ was added in 1724, and there are two other
fine organs in this lovely church, also home to the tomb of
Rembrandts wife, Saskia.
The Oude Kerk Today

The old church,
surrounded by shops,
cafs and houses, remains
a calm and peaceful
haven at the heart of the
frenetic Red Light District.
. Great Organ (1724)

Vater-Mllers oak-encased organ
has eight bellows and 4,000 pipes.
The 54 pipes of the magnificent
organ front are gilded.
1462 First 195599

1330 Church 1979 Church
side chapel Restoration
consecrated 1658 Carillon installed reopens to public
demolished of church
to St Nicholas
to build 1552 Lady 1724 Great 1951 2014 Renewal of
1412 North
transept south Chapel Organ installed Church entrance and exit
completed transept added closes
1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000 2100
1500 Side 1578 Calvinists
191214
chapels added triumph in the
Partial 201112 Floor
1340 Church Alteration
1566 Spire restoration is restored
enlarged of north-
added to Stained-glass
1300 Small stone 13th-century coats of arms in west corner
church built tower Lady Chapel
OUDE ZIJDE 85
. Gilded Ceiling VISITORS CHECKLIST

The delicate
15th-century vault Practical Information
paintings have a gilded Oudekerksplein. Map 2 D4.
background. They were Tel 020-6258284.
hidden with layers of oudekerk.nl
blue paint in 1755 and Church: Open 11am5pm Mon
not revealed until 1955. Sat, 15pm Sun. 5 11am Sun.
& 7 Tower: Open AprSep:
15pm ThuSat; OctMar: phone
020-6892565 to arrange a visit.
Transport
v 4, 9, 16.
. Lady Chapel
(1552)
The Death of the
Virgin Mary by Dirk
Crabeth is one of
three restored
stained-glass
windows in the
Lady Chapel.
Brocaded Pillars
Decorative pillars
originally formed niches
holding a series of statues
of the Apostles, all
destroyed by the
iconoclasts in 1578.
KEY
1 Tomb of Admiral Abraham van

der Hulst (161966)
2 Christening chapel
3 The spire of the bell tower was
built by Joost Bilhamer in 1565.
Franois Hemony added the 47-bell
carillon in 1658.
The Red Door 4 Tomb of Saskia, wife of
The inscription on Rembrandt (see p80)
the lintel above the 5 Tomb of Admiral Jacob van
door into the former Heemskerk (15671607)
sacristy warns those
6 17th- and 18th-century houses
about to enter:
Marry in haste, 7 Former sacristy
repent at leisure.
AMSTERDAM 87
NIEUWE ZIJDE
The western side of medieval Amsterdam sprang up. The interesting Amsterdam
was known as the Nieuwe Zijde (New Side). Museum, which is now housed in a
Together with the Oude Zijde it formed splendid former orphanage, has scores
the heart of the early maritime settlement. of maps and paintings charting the
Nieuwendijk, today a busy shopping street, growth of the city from these times to the
was originally one of the earliest sea present day. One room is devoted to the
defences. As Amsterdam grew, it expanded Miracle of Amsterdam, which made the
eastwards, leaving large sections of the city a place of pilgrimage, and brought
Nieuwe Zijde, to the west, neglected and commerce to the Nieuwe Zijde. Nearby lies
in decline. With its many wooden houses, Kalverstraat, Amsterdams main shopping
the city was prone to fires and in 1452 street, and also the secluded Begijnhof.
much of the area was burned down. This pretty courtyard is mostly fringed by
During rebuilding, a broad moat, the narrow 17th-century houses, but it also
Singel, was cut, along which warehouses, contains the citys oldest surviving
rich merchants homes and fine quays wooden house.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Monuments
and Bridges D
E
2 Koninklijk Paleis pp923 RU
IJ
4 Nationaal Monument TE
RK
9 Torensluis A
KT D
0 Magna Plaza AR E
OM
w Centraal Station
R
KATTENGAT ST
t Beurs van Berlage PR Centraal Station

I
STATIONS
N
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Churches LAA PLEIN
S
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MAGRACH
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1 Nieuwe Kerk
ND
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LV E Station
KE
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q Lutherse Kerk
KK
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SI
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W
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JK
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Museums
RB
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3 Madame Tussauds
M
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Scenerama
Da
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6 Amsterdam Museum
RA
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pp967
UI
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8 Allard Pierson
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Museum
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D
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Heer op Solder
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Streets and Squares ST.

JAN
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DAM SST
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7 Begijnhof
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GEDEMPTE
BEGIJNENSLO
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KUIPERS See also Street Finder

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Singel
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maps 1, 2 & 5
NIEUW
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SP
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Visitors at the Amsterdam Museum on Kalverstraat For map symbols see back flap
88 AMSTERDAM
Street-by-Street: Nieuwe Zijde

Although much of the medieval Nieuwe Zijde has
disappeared, the area is still rich in buildings that relate to
the citys past. The Dam, dominated by the Koninklijk Paleis
and Nieuwe Kerk, provides examples of architecture from
the 15th to the 20th centuries. Around Kalverstraat, narrow
streets and alleys follow the course of some of the earliest
dykes and footpaths. Here, most of the traditional gabled
houses have been turned into bustling shops and cafs.
The lively Rokin, and nearby Damrak, are destined to
become the red carpet entry to the city, once the new
Noord-Zuidlijn metro is completed.
6 . Amsterdam
Museum
Wall plaques and maps Kalverstraat
showing the walled This busy tourist shopping area
medieval city are on took its name from the livestock
display in this converted market which was regularly held
orphanage that dates here during the 15th century.
from the 16th century.
7 . Begijnhof
Two churches and one of the few ST.
LUC
remaining wooden houses in the IN
city nestle in this secluded, tree- STE
EG
filled courtyard.
IN
K
O
R
S P
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Key
Recommended route
NIEUWE ZIJDE 89
1 . Nieuwe Kerk
The carved and gilded ceiling above the CANAL RING
choir was one of the few sections to survive NIEUWE
ZUIDE
the great fire of 1645.
OUIDE
ZIJDE
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
K
A
R
PA M
A
LE D
IS
ST
RA
AT DAM St Nicolaas wall
statue, depicting
Amsterdams
patron saint, is
thought to date
from the 15th
century.
T
A
A
R
T
S
R
E
V
L
A
K
4 Nationaal
Monument
Two heraldic stone
lions represent the
Netherlands on
N
this imposing
I
K
memorial to
O
R
the Dutch who

lost their lives
in World War II.
3 Madame Tussauds Scenerama

S
E
As well as waxworks and animated scenes,

N
there is a fine view of the city from here.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
5 Nes 2 . Koninklijk Paleis

This street, one Built as the town hall, the
of Amsterdams buildings Classical faade
oldest, has been and fine sculptures were
a centre for theatre intended to glorify the city
for over 150 years and its government.
90 AMSTERDAM
1 Nieuwe Kerk
Dam. Map 1 C4. Tel 020-6386909.
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17.
Open during exhibitions only (phone
to check). Closed 27 Apr. & 7 -
nieuwekerk.nl
Dating from the late 14th

century, Amsterdams second
parish church was built as the
population outgrew the Oude
Kerk (see pp845). During its
turbulent history, the church
has been destroyed several
times by fire, rebuilt and then
stripped of its finery after
the Alteration. It reached its
present size in the 1650s.
The pulpit, not the altar, is
the focal point of the interior,
reflecting the Protestant belief
that the sermon is central to
worship. Unusually flamboyant
for a Dutch Protestant church,
it was finished in 1664 and took
Albert Vinckenbrink 15 years to
carve. Above the transept
crossing, grimacing gilded
cherubs struggle to support the
corners of the wooden barrel
vault. Magnificent three-tiered Scene after Vermeer, in Madame Tussauds Scenerama
brass candelabra were hung
from the ceilings of the nave and 3 Madame Tussauds Dam commemorates Dutch
transepts during restoration work Scenerama World War II casualties. It was
following the fire of 1645. The unveiled in 1956 and is fronted
colourful arched window in the Gebouw Peek & Cloppenburg, by two lions, heraldic symbols
south transept was designed Dam 20. Map 2 D5. Tel 020-5221010. of the Netherlands. Embedded
v 4, 9, 14, 16. Open 10am6:30pm
by Otto Mengelberg in 1898. in the wall behind are urns
daily (to 8:30pm Jul & Aug).
It depicts Queen Wilhelmina containing earth from all the
Closed 27 Apr. & = 7
surrounded by courtiers at madametussauds.com Dutch provinces as well as
her coronation. In the apse is from the former Dutch colonies
Rombout Verhulsts memorial Madame Tussauds offers an of Indonesia, the Antilles
to Admiral De Ruyter (160776), audiovisual tour of Amsterdams and Suriname.
who died at sea in battle against history, as well as projected
the French. future developments. Some of
the displays, such as the ani- 5 Nes
mated 5-m (16-ft) figure of Map 2 D5. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
Amsterdam Man, are bizarre,
but the wax models of 17th- This quiet, narrow street is
century people give an insight home to several theatres
into life in the citys Golden and good restaurants. In
Age. Current celebrities and 1614, Amsterdams first
pop stars also feature among pawnshop opened at Nes
the exhibits. No. 57. A wall plaque marks
the site, and pawned goods
continue to clutter the shop
4 Nationaal window. At night, Nes can
Monument prove to be dangerous for
Stained-glass window at the Nieuwe Kerk Dam. Map 2 D5. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
the unguarded visitor.
in Amsterdam
Sculpted by John Raedecker 6 Amsterdam
and designed by architect
2 Koninklijk Paleis JJP Oud, the imposing Museum
See pp923. 22-m (70-ft) obelisk in the See pp967.
NIEUWE ZIJDE 91
7 Begijnhof noise, retains a sanctified century. Directly west

Spui (but public entrance at
atmosphere. Among the stands the Begijnhof Chapel,
Gedempte Begijnensloot). houses that overlook its a clandestine church in
Map 1 C5. v 1, 2, 5, 9, 14, 16. well-kept green is the citys which the Begijntjes
Open 9am5pm daily. oldest surviving house at and other Catholics
No. 34. On the adjoining worshipped in secret
The Begijnhof was originally wall there is a fascinating until religious tolerance
built in 1346 as a sanctuary for collection of wall plaques was restored in 1795.
the Begijntjes, a lay Catholic taken from the houses. Stained-glass windows
sisterhood who lived like nuns, In keeping with the and paintings depict
although they took no monastic Begijntjes religious scenes of the Miracle
vows. In return for lodgings, outlook, the plaques Plaque on the of Amsterdam. Public
these women undertook to have a biblical theme. Engelse Kerk tours are not allowed.
educate the poor and look after The southern fringe Also, visitors are
the sick. Nothing survives of of the square is dominated requested to be quiet and
the earliest dwellings, but the by the Engelse Kerk (English not visit the Begijnhof in
Begijnhof, cut off from traffic Church), dating from the 15th large groups.
The Begijnhof Chapel, a clandestine No. 19 has a plaque

church (Nos. 2930), was completed depicting the exodus of
in 1680. It contains many reminders the Jews from Egypt.
of Amsterdams Catholic past.
Begijnhof Houses
These are still occupied by
single women.
Biblical plaques cover the

wall behind No. 34.
Spui entrance
Main entrance from

Gedempte
Begijnensloot
Engelse Kerk
Houten House This church was built around
No. 34 is Amsterdams oldest house, 1419 for the Begijntjes. It
dating from around 1420. It is one of was confiscated after the
the citys two wooden-fronted houses; Alteration and rented to a
timber houses were banned in 1521 group of English and Scottish
after a series of catastrophic fires. Most Presbyterians in 1607. The
of the Begijnhof houses were built Pilgrim Fathers may have
after the 16th century. worshipped here.
92 AMSTERDAM
2 Koninklijk Paleis Chamber of the

Formerly the town hall, the Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) Commissioners of
is still regularly used by the Dutch royal family on official Petty Affairs
Courtyard
occasions. Construction of the sandstone building began
in 1648, at the end of the 80 Years War (see p53). The South
Neo-Classical design of Jacob van Campen (15951657) gallery
reflected Amsterdams new-found self-confidence after the
victory against the Spanish. When not in use by members
of the Royal House, the Paleis is open to the public.
Sculptures
Chamber of the
Thesaurie Ordinaris
Mayors office
. Burgerzaal
The Burgerzaal (citizens hall) has Mayors
an inlaid marble floor depicting chamber
the two hemispheres (western
and eastern). View of the Dam and
the Vierschaar
Court of Justice
. Sculptures
The palace is decorated with
a large number of sculptures
of mainly allegorical figures.
High Court of Justice

Key to Floorplan (Vierschaar)
Ground floor
First floor
Entrance
NIEUWE ZIJDE 93
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Aldermans hall
Dam. Map 1 C4.
Tel 020-6204060.
paleisamsterdam.nl
Open Jul & Aug: daily;
Courtyard SepMay: regularly, check
website for details. & 9 7
8 on request. =
Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14,
16, 17.
The Newly Built Town Hall on the
River Amstel
This painting by Jan van der Heyden
(16371712) shows the city hall,
with the Nieuwe Kerk (see p90)
in the background.
North gallery
Insolvency
auction room
Bronze Entrance Gates to
Insurance the Burgerzaal
chamber The approach to these
magnificent gates, up a flight
of stairs from street level, made
the entrance to the Burgerzaal
even more imposing.
. Vroedschapszaal
This hall, the Council
Hall of the city
Institution fathers, has two fine
managing fireplaces with
property of mantelpieces by
orphans Govert Flinck and
Han van Bronckhorst.
The grisailles from
1738 are the work
of Jacob de Wit.
2013 Willem-Alexander
1648 1720 1810 Complete refurbishment of the becomes King of the
Construction Interior palace, with galleries divided up into Netherlands and gives
begins decoration rooms with wood partitions; the rooms a speech from the
under Jacob completed are furnished in Empire style palace balcony with
van Campen Princess Beatrix
1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
1655 2002 Crown Prince

1665
Ceremonial 1808 Louis Willem-Alexander
Building 1960 Thorough restoration kisses his bride,
inaugu- Napoleon
completed work throughout the 20th Maxima, on the
ration of the converts the town
century undoes the building palace balcony
building hall into a palace
work of Louis Napoleon
94 AMSTERDAM
8 Allard Pierson It is the first Dutch Reformed

Museum church to feature a circular ground
plan and two upper galleries,
Oude Turfmarkt 127. Map 5 A2. giving the whole congregation
Tel 020-5252556. v 4, 9, 14, 16. a clear view of the pulpit.
Open 10am5pm TueFri,
In 1882 a fire destroyed
15pm Sat, Sun & public hols.
everything but the exterior walls.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 27 Apr,
Whitsun, 25 Dec. & 7 8
Allard Pierson Museums Neo-Classical faade When the interior and entrance
allardpiersonmuseum.nl of Bremer and Bentheimer stone were rebuilt in 1883, they were
made more square and more
Amsterdams only specialist 0 Magna Plaza ornate. A vaulted copper dome
archaeological collection is Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182.
replaced the earlier ribbed ver-
named after Allard Pierson Map 1 C4. Tel 020-6269199. v 1, sion. Falling attendance led to
(183196), a humanist and 2, 5, 13, 14, 17. Open noon7pm the closure of the church in 1935.
scholar. The collection was Sun, 11am7pm Mon, 10am7pm The building is now used by
moved into this handsome TueSat. Closed 27 Apr, 25 Dec, Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel
Neo-Classical building in 1976. 1 Jan. See Shopping: p148. 7 as a business centre. Concerts
The museum contains Cypriot, magnaplaza.nl are sometimes held here.
Greek, Egyptian, Roman, Etruscan
and Coptic artifacts. A post office building has been
sited here since 1748. The w Centraal Station
present building was completed Stationsplein. Map 2 E3. Tel 0900-
9 Torensluis in 1899; CP Peters, the architect, 9292. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17.
Singel, between Torensteeg and
was ridiculed for the extra- q Centraal Station. Open daily. 7
Oude Leliestraat. Map 1 C4. vagance of its Neo-Gothic
v 1, 2, 5, 13, 14, 17. design. Redeveloped but well When the Centraal Station
preserved, in 1990 it opened opened in 1889, it replaced the
The Torensluis is one of the as the citys first shopping mall. old harbour as the symbolic focal
widest bridges in the city. Built point of the city and curtained
on the site of a 17th-century Amsterdam off from the sea. The
sluice gate, it took its name q Ronde Lutherse Neo-Gothic red-brick railway
from a tower that stood here Kerk terminus was designed by PJH
until demolished in 1829. Kattengat 2. Map 2 D3. Tel 020-
Cuypers and AL van Gendt. Three
Its outline is marked in the 6212223. v 1, 2, 5, 13, 17. artificial islands were created,
pavement. A lock-up jail was 8,600 wooden piles supporting
built in its foundations. This church, also known as the structure. The twin towers
In summer, caf tables on Nieuwe Lutherse Kerk, was and central section have archi-
the bridge offer pleasant views designed by Adriaan Dortsman tectural echoes of a triumphal
down the Singel. (162582) and opened in 1671. arch. The faades decorations
An outdoor caf on the Torensluis bridge overlooking the Singel canal

NIEUWE ZIJDE 95
show allegories of maritime became Protestant, many such

trade, a tribute to the citys past. hidden churches were built
Although currently undergoing in the city.
renovation to accommodate The lower floors of the
the new Noord-Zuidlijn metro building became a museum
route, the station still handles in 1888 and today contain
250,000 train travellers daily. elegantly refurbished and
decorated rooms, as well as
an impressive collection of
church silver, religious artifacts
and paintings.
Work was completed in
2015 which links the church
to the house opposite, now
functioning as an entrance
Ons Lieve Heer op Solder, which dates back building and providing much-
to the 17th century needed space for more
exhibitions, a shop and a caf.
r Museum Ons
Lieve Heer op t Beurs van
Solder Berlage
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40. Map 2 E4.
Damrak 243. Map 2 D4. Tel (box office)
Tel 020-6246604. v 4, 9, 16.
020-5304141. v 4, 9, 16. Open only
Open 10am5pm MonSat, 15pm
during exhibitions. Closed 1 Jan. &
Sun & public hols. Closed 1 Jan, ^ 7 = beursvanberlage.nl
27 Apr. & 8 =
The clean, functional appearance
Tucked away on the edge of of Hendrik Berlages 1903 stock
the Red Light District is a exchange marked a departure
restored 17th-century canal from late 19th-century revivalist
house, with two smaller houses architecture. Many of its design
Splendid Neo-Renaissance faade of to the rear. The combined features were adopted by
the Sint-Nicolaaskerk upper storeys conceal a secret the Amsterdam School. An
Catholic church, known as impressive frieze shows the
e Sint-Nicolaaskerk Ons Lieve Heer op Solder (Our evolution of man from Adam
Prins Hendrikkade 73. Map 2 E4.
Dear Lord in the Attic), built in to stockbroker. The building
Tel 020-6248749. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 1663. Following the Alteration, now serves as a venue for
13, 16, 17. q Centraal Station. when Amsterdam officially exhibitions, concerts and shows.
Open noon3pm Mon & Sat,
11am4pm TueFri. 5 12:30pm
MonSat, 10:30am & 1pm (Spanish)
Sun. nicolaasparochie.nl
Sint Nicolaas was the patron

saint of seafarers, and so was an
important icon in Amsterdam.
Many Dutch churches are named
after him, and the Netherlands
principal day for the giving of
presents, 5 December, is known
as Sinterklaasavond (see p39).
Completed in 1887, Sint-
Nicolaaskerk was designed
by AC Bleys (18421912). It
replaced some clandestine
Catholic churches set up in
the city when Amsterdam was
officially Protestant.
The exterior is forbidding, its
twin towers dominating the
skyline. The monumental
interior has squared pillars and
coffered ceiling arches. Decorative brickwork on the faade of the Beurs van Berlage
96 AMSTERDAM
6 Amsterdam Museum
The convent of St Lucien was turned into a civic orphanage two years
after the Alteration of 1578. The original red-brick convent has been
Lecture
enlarged over the years; new wings were added in the 17th century
room
by Hendrick de Keyser and Jacob van Campen. The present building is
largely as it was in the 18th century. Since 1975 the complex has housed
the citys historical museum, charting Amsterdams development.
. The Anatomy Lesson of

Dr Jan Deijman (1656)
In this painting, Rembrandt depicts Second floor
the dissection of Black John, a
criminal sentenced to death. Library
Kalverstraat main
entrance (to the
Orphans Relief (1581) Begijnhof)
The crooked relief
above the gateway to
Kalverstraat is a copy
of Joost Bilhamers
original (on display in Goliath (c.1650)
the main entrance hall). This massive statue is
Its inscription asks people one of a trio of biblical
to contribute to the figures dominating the
upkeep of the orphans. museums caf.
Museum Guide Key to Floorplan

The permanent exhibits are Civic Guard Gallery
housed around the inner Regents Room
courtyards. The main exhib
Origins of Amsterdam
ition is Amsterdam DNA,
which provides a fascinating 14th- and 15th-century history
overview into the citys 16th-century history
history. Signposting allows 17th- and 18th-century history
the visitor to explore a specific 19th-century history
period, such as the exciting
Modern age
100 Years in Schipol exhibit,
which details the history of Temporary exhibition space
the citys largest airport . Non-exhibition space
NIEUWE ZIJDE 97
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Kalverstraat 92, NZ Voorburgwal
357, St-Lucinsteeg 27
Map 1 C5.
Tel 020-5231822.
ahm.nl
Open 10am5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
&78-0=
Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14,
16, 17.
. The Flower Market and Town Hall

Gerrit Berckheijde (163898) painted
this scene (1673) showing the site of
Amsterdams original flower market on
the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, which was
filled in at the end of the 19th century. In
the background is the Koninklijk Paleis.
First floor Keys to the Town of Amsterdam (1810)

These two silver keys were presented to
Napoleon upon his entry into Amsterdam.
. Civic Guard
Gallery
This painting
(1557) shows
17 soldiers of the
Civic Guard who
belonged to Rot F
(F squad).
Ground floor
17th-century red
Entrance in girls
brick faade
courtyard
Entrance on
Nieuwezijds
Voorburgwal
St Lucinsteeg Hunting Day (1926)

entrance Johan Braakensieks illustration shows
the lively carnival atmosphere
in Zeedijk during the celebrations
for this day, which took place every
Thursday throughout August.
AMSTERDAM 99
CANAL RING
In the early 1600s, construction of the classes bought land along the Herengracht,
Grachtengordel (canal ring) began and Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht to escape
the marshy area beyond these fashionable the citys squalor. In the 1660s, the richest
canals, later called the Jordaan, was laid out built houses on a stretch known today as
for workers whose industries were prohibited the Golden Bend. The canal ring was also
in the centre. Immigrants fleeing religious extended east to the Amstel. Houses here,
persecution also settled here. Historically a like the Van Loon, convey a sense of life in
poor area, it now has a bohemian air. As the the Golden Age. In 2010, the canal ring was
major canals were extended, the merchant declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sights at a Glance
0 metres 500 Historic Buildings and
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See also Street Finder ER
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maps 1, 2, 4 & 5
Row of houses along the banks of one of the citys canals For map symbols see back flap
100 AMSTERDAM
A Guide to Canal
House Architecture
Amsterdam has been called a city of well-mannered architecture
because its charms lie in intimate details rather than in grand effects.
From the 15th century on, planning laws, plot sizes and the instability
of the topsoil dictated that faades were largely uniform in size and
built of lightweight brick or sandstone, with large windows to reduce
the weight. Canal house owners stamped their own individuality on
the buildings, mainly through the use of decorative gables and
cornices, ornate doorcases and varying window shapes.
Broken pediment Broken handle Pediment carvings symbolize

and vase window surrounds the arts and sciences.
Ground Plans
Taxes were levied
Bartolotti House (1617) Felix Meritis Building (1778) according to width of
The contrasting brick and stone, The Corinthian columns and faade, so canal houses
flamboyant step gable, with its triangular pediment are influenced were often long and
marble obelisk and scrolls, is typical by Classical architecture. This marks narrow, with an achterhuis
of the Dutch Renaissance style of the building by Jacob Otten Husly (back annexe) used for
Hendrick de Keyser (see p114). as Dutch Classical in style. offices and storage.
Cornices
Decorative top
mouldings, called
cornices, became
popular from 1690
onwards when the
fashion for gables
declined. By the 19th
century, they had Louis XV-style with rococo 19th-century cornice 19th-century dentil
become unadorned. balustrade (1739) with mansard roof (tooth-shaped) cornice
Gables Warehouse-style
spout gable Dutch
The term gable refers Simple Renaissance
to the front apex of a roof. triangular gable style
It disguised the steepness
of the roof under which
goods were stored. In
time, gables became
decorated with scrolls,
crests, and even with No. 34 Begijnhof The style of gable on Step gables like the one
coats of arms. (c.1420) is one of No. 213 Leliegracht on No. 2 Brouwersgracht
the few remaining (c.1620) was used for were in vogue between
timber houses. warehouses. 16001665.
A GUIDE TO CANAL HOUSE ARCHITECTURE 101
Golden Bend
The stretch of the Herengracht between Leidenstraat and Vijzelstraat
was first called the Golden Bend in the 17th century, because of the
great wealth of the ship-builders, merchants and politicians who
originally lived here. The majority of the buildings along this stretch
are faced with imported sandstone, which was more expensive than
brick. An excellent example is house No. 412, which was designed
by Philips Vingboons in 1664. He was also responsible for the design
of the Witte Huis at Herengracht
No. 168 as well as Bijbels Museum
at Herengracht 366. Building
continued into the 18th century,
with the Louis XIV style pre-
dominating. The house at
No. 475, with its ornate window
decoration, is typical of this trend.
Built in 1730, it is often called
Leaning Faades the jewel of canal houses. Two
Canal houses were often built with a sculpted female figures over the
deliberate tilt, allowing goods to be front door adorn its monumental
winched up to the attic without sandstone faade.
crashing against the windows. A law
dating from 1565 restricted this lean Ground plan and faade of the
to 1:25, to limit the risk of buildings building at Herengracht 168
collapsing into the streets.
Sign of a sailors hostel Symbol of a dairy producer

Dutch Hofjes
Almshouses (hofjes) were built Wall Plaques
throughout the Netherlands by Carved and painted
rich benefactors in the 17th and stones were used to
18th centuries. By providing identify houses before
accommodation for the elderly street numbering was
and infirm, the hofjes marked
introduced in the 19th
the beginning of the Dutch
century. Many reflect the
welfare system.
Noahs Ark a refuge for the poor owners occupation.
Unadorned Stonework with

Shell motif Dolphin
bell gable cornucopia decoration
ornament
No. 419 Singel has a No. 119 Oudezijds No. 57 Leliegracht No. 298 Oudezijds
neck gable, a common Voorburgwal has an has a plain bell gable, Voorburgwal has a bell
feature from 1640 to ornate 17th-century popular from the late gable dating from the
around 1840. neck gable. 17th century. 18th century.
102 AMSTERDAM
Dam Square to Herengracht 487
HER ENG RAC HT

SIN GEL
KEIZ ERSG RAC HT
The walk along Amsterdams finest canals begins in Dam square
(see p68). Following the grey dots on the map, leave the square past
the Koninklijk Paleis (see pp923), cross Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal and
Spuistraat down Paleisstraat, and turn left along the left bank of Singel,
marked by purple dots. Further directions
are incorporated into the route below.
Locator Map
Singel
No. 239 Singel The double-fronted 17th The step gable at No. 279 Singel
AL Van Gendt designed century canal house at dates from the 19th century
this massive stone office No. 265 Singel has been most along this canal were built
block for trader Julius rebuilt several times since between 16001665.
Carle Bunge. Known it was first constructed.
as the Bungehuis, it was
completed in 1934. The three neck gables on
Nos. 3537 Keizersgracht date Huidenstraat
from the early 18th century.
No. 345a Keizersgracht is a

narrow house sharing a cornice
The Sower at Arles (1888)
with its neighbour.
In March 1878, Vincent van
Gogh (see pp13031) visited
In 1708, No. 333 Keizersgracht his uncle, who ran a bookshop
was rebuilt for tax collector and art dealership at No. 453
Jacob de Wilde. It has been Keizersgracht.
converted into apartments.
A C ANAL WALK 103
Nos. 289293 Singel

These houses stand on an alley
once called Schoorsteenvegersteeg
(chimney sweeps lane), home to
immigrant chimney sweeps.
Yab Yum Brothel

This famous former brothel
with its opulent interior was
located at No. 295 Singel.
No. 365 Keizersgracht Jacob de Wit

The doorway was taken The artist bought
from an almshouse on Nos. 383 and 385
Oudezijds Voorburgwal Keizersgracht, living
in the 19th century. in No. 385 until his
death in 1754.
Gerrit Rietveld De Vergulde Ster

No 346 Leidsestraat Rietveld designed (gilded star), at No. 387
houses the countrys first the glass cupola on Keizersgracht, was
Abercrombie and Fitch Abercrombie and Fitch, and built in 1668 by the
clothing shop. a line of plain, inexpensive municipal stone
furniture for the store. masons yard. It has
an elongated neck
gable (see pp100101)
and narrow windows.
Directions to
Herengracht
Turn left on to
Leidsestraat, and walk
to Koningsplein, then
take the left bank of the
Herengracht eastwards
towards Thorbeckeplein.
Herengracht
104 AMSTERDAM
Keizersgracht The un
This photograph of the emperors No. 313
canal is taken at dusk, from the corner in 1914
of Leidsegracht. The Westerkerk
(see p114) is in the distance.
Behind the 18th-century faade at

No. 319 Singel is a secondhand bookshop,
which is well worth browsing through.
Directions To
Keizersgracht
At Raamsteeg, cross
the bridge, take the
Oude Spiegelstraat, cross
Herengracht and walk
along Wolvenstraat to the
left bank of Keizersgracht.
Keizersgracht
No. 399 Keizersgracht No. 409 Keizersgracht

dates from 1665, but the Built in 1671 on a triangular This c
faade was rebuilt in piece of land, this house of D
the 18th century. Its contains a highly decorated expansio
achterhuis (see p100) has wooden ceiling. a mixt
been perfectly preserved. 18thc
The wall plaque on No. 401

Keizersgracht shows a birdseye The plain, spout-
view of the port of Marseilles. gabled building (see
pp100101) at No. 403
Keizersgracht was
No. 469 Herengracht originally a warehouse
The modern office block by a rarity in this
KL Sijmons replaced the original predominantly
18thcentury houses in 1971. residential area.
A C ANAL WALK 105
nusual office block at Peter the Great (1716)

3 Keizersgracht was built The Russian tsar sailed up
4 by CN van Goor. Keizersgracht to No. 317, the
home of his friend Christoffel
No. 319 Keizersgracht Brants. Legend says the tsar
was built by the architect got drunk and kept the
Philips Vingboons (1608 mayor waiting while at a
78) in 1639. It has a rare, civic reception.
highly decorated faade
covered with scrolls, vases
and garlands.
The Louis XIV-style

Leidsegracht house at No. 323
canal marked the end Keizersgracht was built
Daniel Stalpaerts city in 1728. It has a raised
on plan of 1664. It has cornice embellished
ture of fine 17th and with two hoisting
century canal houses. beams, one functional
and the other to
provide symmetry.
No. 475 Herengracht Jan Corver

Art patron Jan Gildemester Burgomaster of
bought this house in 1792. Amsterdam 19
Attributed to Jacob Otten times, Corver
Husly, it has a stuccoed built No. 479
entrance hall. Herengracht
in 1665.
Turn over to continue walk at top of page 106

106 AMSTERDAM
Herengracht 489 to
the Amstel H ER EN
KE IZ ER
G RA C
HT
SG RA
REGULIE RSGRAC HT
The second half of the walk takes you along Herengracht, CHT
winding past grand, wide-fronted mansions. It then

follows Reguliersgracht and Prinsengracht down to the P R IN SE
NGRA
CHT
Amstel. Many of the fine houses have been converted

into banks, offices and exclusive apartment blocks.
Locator Map
Herengracht
The house at No. 491 No. 493 Herengracht The Kattenk
Herengracht was built This 17th-century house No. 497 Here
in 1671. The faade, was given a Louis XV-style was created
rebuilt in the 18th faade in 1767 by Anthony B Meijer in 1
century, is decorated van Hemert. devoted to e
with scrolls, vases and featuring the
coats of arms.
Directions to
Reguliersgracht
At Thorbeckeplein,
take the bridge to the
right, which marks
the beginning of
Reguliersgracht.
Follow the left bank.
Reguliersgracht
Restaurant Nel
The Amstelkerk (Amstel
Church) now houses a
restaurant and offices,
while the square is a
popular playground for
children from the
Amstelveld in the 17th Century
surrounding area.
This etching shows the construction of
a wooden church at Amstelveld, with
sheep grazing in front of it.
Directions to
Prinsengracht
Turn left by the church,
take the left bank of
Prinsengracht and walk
to the Amstel river. Prinsengracht
A C ANAL WALK 107
Riots in 1696
Jan Six II No. 507
The faade of No. 495 Herengracht was
Herengracht was rebuilt the home of
mayor Jacob
AMS
and a balcony added

Boreel. His house
TEL
by Jean Coulon in
1739 for burgomaster was looted in
and art expert Jan Six. retaliation for the
burial tax he
introduced into
the city.
Vijzelstraat
kabinet at Three houses boasting

engracht typical neck gables, at The Nieuwe Amsterdammer
d by financier Nos. 17, 19 and 21 A weekly magazine aimed at Amsterdams
1984. It is Reguliersgracht, are now Bolshevik intelligentsia was published at
exhibits much sought after as No. 19 Reguliersgracht from 1914 to 1920.
e cat in art. prestigious addresses.
The spout-gabled (see Houseboats on

pp100101) 16th-century Prinsengracht
warehouses at Nos. 11 and All registered houseboats
13 Reguliersgracht are called have postal addresses and
the Sun and the Moon. are connected to the
electricity mains.
Caf Marcella, at No. 1047a
Prinsengracht, is a typical
local bar which has seating Utrechtsestraat
outside in summer.
108 AMSTERDAM
Herengracht (1790)
Tsar Peter (see p105) stayed
A delicate watercolour
at No. 527 Herengracht,
by J Prins shows the
home of the Russian
gentlemens canal
ambassador, after a night of
from Koningsplein.
drunken revelry at No. 317
Keizersgracht in 1716.
The asymmetrical building at Nos. 5337

Herengracht was built in 1910 on the site of
four former houses. From 1968 to 1988 it was
the Registry of Births, Marriages and Deaths.
The faades of Nos. 37 Reguliersgracht Bridges

and 39 Reguliersgracht Seven arched stone
lean towards the water, bridges cross the canal,
showing the danger which was originally
caused by subsidence designed to be a street.
when building on
marshland.
Keizersgracht
My Domestic Companions
Nos. 1059 and 1061 Prinsengracht Society portraitist Thrse van
have tiny basement entrances, rare amid Duyl Schwartze painted this
the splendour of the Canal Ring, where picture in 1916. She owned
the height of the steps was considered Nos. 1087, 1089 and 1091
an indication of wealth. Prinsengracht, a handsome
The sober spout-gabled building row of houses where she lived
at No. 1075 Prinsengracht was built with her extended family.
as a warehouse in 1690.
A C ANAL WALK 109
Herengracht (c.1670)
GA Berckheijdes etching shows one side of
the canal bare of trees. Elms were later
planted, binding the topsoil, to strengthen
the buildings foundations.
No. 543 Herengracht was built in

1743 under the supervision of owner
Sibout Bollard. It has a double-
fronted faade with an ornate
balustrade and decorated balcony.
The small houses at the corner of
Herengracht and Thorbeckeplein
contrast with the grand
neighbouring buildings.
Reguliers
Isaac Gosschalk Monastery
The architect designed Nos. 57, This engraving
59 and 63 Reguliersgracht in by J Wagenaar
1879. They have ornate (1760) shows the
stone, brick and monastery that once
woodwork faades. stood on the canal.
The Amstel
Turn left and follow
the broad sweep of
the Amstel river, up
past the Magere Brug,
on up Rokin and back
to the Dam, where the
walk began.
110 AMSTERDAM
Street-by-Street: Around the Jordaan

West of the Grachtengordel, the Jordaan Egelantiersgracht is
still retains a network of narrow, a charming tree-lined
Jordaan canal over-
characterful streets and delightful canals. looked by an interesting
Among the 17th-century workers houses mixture of old and
are dozens of quirky shops, which are well new architecture. Its
worth a browse, selling anything from numerous bridges
provide pretty views.
designer clothes to old sinks, and lively
brown cafs and bars, which spill onto
the pavements in summer. A stroll along
the Grachtengordel provides a glimpse
into some of the citys grandest canal
houses, including the Bartolotti House.
T
CH
RA
R SG
E
TI
AN
G EL
E
The quiet
H
C
Bloemgracht
A
canal was once a

R
G
centre for makers

N
of paint and dye. HT

AC
E
GR
S
M
OE
I N
BL
R
P
3 . Westerkerk 1 . Anne Frank Huis

Hendrick de Keysers church is the For two years, the Frank family
site of Rembrandts unmarked and four others lived in a small
grave and was the setting for upstairs apartment that was
the wedding of Queen Beatrix hidden behind a moveable
and Prince Claus in 1966. bookcase (see pp11213).
CANAL RING 111
4 Huis met de Hoofden

The name House with the Heads CANAL
RING
refers to the six Classical busts at the
entrance, depicting Apollo, Ceres,
NIEUWE
Mars, Minerva, Bacchus and Diana. ZIJDE
OUDE
ZIJDE
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1
T
CH
RA
G
N
SE
IN
PR
T
CH
RA
SG
ER
IZ
KE
The Eerste Hollandsche

Levensverzekeringsbank
building, with its fine
faade, is a rare example
of Dutch Art Nouveau,
designed by Gerrit van
T
L E
CH
L I Arkel in 1905.
E G
RA
R A
C H
SG
T
ER
IZ
KE
Key
2. Homomonument
Recommended route The pink triangle used
to brand homosexual
men during World War II
influenced the design
of this memorial to
0 metres 75
oppressed gay men and
0 yards 75 women everywhere.
It was unveiled in
September 1987.
112 AMSTERDAM
1 Anne Frank Huis

On 6 July 1942, to avoid their Nazi persecutors, the
Jewish Frank family moved from Merwedeplein to the
rear annexe of the house at Prinsengracht 263. Anne;
her mother, Edith; her father, Otto; and her older sister,
Margot, lived here, along with the Van Pels family and
dentist Fritz Pfeffer. It was here that Anne wrote her
famous diary. On 4 August 1944, the annexe was The Secret Entrance
raided by the Gestapo. All those hiding there were Behind the hinged bookcase was
arrested and taken to Nazi concentration camps. a small suite of rooms where the
eight hideaways lived.
Anne in May 1942

This photograph was taken in
1942, when Anne started writing
in the now-famous diary that she
had been given on 12 June 1942,
her 13th birthday. Less than one
month later, the Frank family went
into hiding.
KEY
1 Bathroom
2 Annes bedroom
3 Frank family bedroom
4 Van Pels familys room
5 Attic
6 The annexe
7 Faade of Prinsengracht 263
8 Main building housing offices
View of the Annexe

The rear annexe of the house
adjoined the main building,
which housed the offices of Otto
Franks herb and spice business.
The museum website offers a
virtual 3-D tour of the annexe.
CANAL RING 113
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Prinsengracht 267. Map 1 B4.
Tel 020-5567105.
annefrank.org
Open AprOct: 9am10pm daily;
NovMar: 9am7pm daily (to
9pm Sat). Closed Yom Kippur.
& check website for details.
^8-=
Transport
v 13, 14, 17. @
Anne and Fritz Pfeffers Bedroom

Anne and Fritz slept on the first floor of the
annexe. On Annes bedroom walls were photos
of film stars, which she collected. Anne wrote
most of her diary at the table here.
The Helpers
The people in hiding were wholly
dependent on their helpers, all
of whom were close colleagues
of Annes father, Otto Frank. From
left to right: Miep Gies, Johannes
Kleiman, Otto Frank, Victor
Kugler and Bep Voskuijl.
Museum Guide
The rear annexe is accessible via the reconstructed
offices of Otto Frank. The building beside Anne
Frank Huis holds various exhibitions. It also
houses a caf, shop and information desk.
The Diary of Anne Frank

Otto Frank returned to Amsterdam in 1945 to
discover that his entire family had perished: his
wife, Edith, in Auschwitz and his daughters, Anne
and Margot, in Bergen-Belsen. Miep Gies, one of
the familys helpers while they were in hiding, had
kept Annes diary. First published in 1947, it has
since been translated into 55 languages, with some
20 million copies sold. For many, Anne symbolizes
the six million Jews murdered by the Nazis in World
War II. The diary is a moving portrait of a little girl
growing up in times of oppression.
114 AMSTERDAM
church. It was designed by

Hendrick de Keyser, who died
in 1621, a year after work began.
Rembrandt was buried here but
his grave has never been found.
The organ shutters (1686) were
painted by Gerard de Lairesse,
with lively scenes showing King
David and the Queen of Sheba.
The tower carries the crown
bestowed on Amsterdam in 1489
by Maximilian, the Hapsburg
School children visiting the Homomonument emperor. The stunning views
justify the climb.
2 Homomonument On Remembrance Day (4 May),
hundreds of gay men and
Westermarkt (between Westerkerk
women from all over the 4 Huis met de
and Keizersgracht). Map 1 B4.
v 13, 14, 17. 4 Prinsengracht & Netherlands join delegates from Hoofden
Keizersgracht. homomonument.nl the city council, police, the
Keizersgracht 123. Map 1 C4. v 13,
military and social organisations 14, 17. Closed to the public.
This monument to the to lay wreaths and flowers.
homosexual men and women Built in 1622, the Huis met
who lost their lives during World de Hoofden (house with the
War II provides a quiet place 3 Westerkerk heads) is one of the largest
of contemplation amid the Prinsengracht 281. Map 1 B4.
double houses of the period. It
bustle of the Westermarkt. Tel 020-6247766. v 13, 14, 17. has a fine step gable and takes
The pink triangular badge that Church: Open 10am3pm MonFri, its name from the six heads
gay men were forced to wear 11am3pm Sat. Tower: & 8 Apr placed on pilasters along the
in Nazi concentration camps Sep: hourly 10am6pm MonSat faade. Legend has it that they
later became a symbol of gay (to 8pm Jul & Aug); OctNov: hourly commemorate a housemaid
pride, and provided the 11am4pm MonSat. Phone 020- who, when alone in the house,
inspiration for Karin Daans 6247766 to book. Closed DecMar. surprised six burglars and cut off
1987 design. The monument their heads. The sculptures are
consists of three large pink Built as part of the development in fact portrayals of six Classical
granite triangles, one of which of the Canal Ring, this church deities (from left to right): Apollo,
bears an engraving from a has the tallest tower in the city Ceres, Mars, Minerva, Bacchus
poem by Dutch writer Jacob at 85 m (279 ft), and the largest and Diana. The design of the
Isral de Haan (18811924). nave of any Dutch Protestant building is sometimes attributed
The Westerkerk in the 18th century, a view by Jan Ekels

CANAL RING 115
to Pieter de Keyser (15951676), 7 Brouwersgracht

son of Hendrick de Keyser. Huis Map 1 B2. v 3.
met de Hoofden, which has
housed a business school, a Brouwersgracht (brewers
conservatoire and the Bureau canal) was named after the
Monumenten en Archeologie, breweries established here in
has been bought by JR Ritman, the 17th and 18th centuries.
owner of the Bibliotheca Leather, spices, coffee and
Philosophica Hermetica. Stone plaque on the hofje founded in sugar were also processed
1616 by the merchant Anslo and stored here. Today, most
of the warehouses, with their
5 Noorderkerk and 6 Haarlemmerpoort spout gables and shutters,
Noordermarkt Haarlemmerplein 50. Map 1 B1. v 3.
are residences that look out
Noordermarkt 4448. Map 1 C3. Closed to the public. on moored houseboats.
Tel 020-6266436. v 3, 10, 13,
14, 17. Church: Open 10:30am Originally a defended gateway
12:30pm Mon, 11am1pm Sat. 5 into Amsterdam, the 8 Western Islands
10am & 7pm Sun. General market: Haarlemmerpoort marked the Map 1 C1. v 3.
Open 9am1pm Mon; Boerenmarkt: beginning of the busy route to
Open 9am5pm Sat. Haarlem. The present gateway, This district comprises three
dating from 1840, was built for islands built on the IJ in
Built for poor settlers in the King William IIs triumphal entry the early 1600s to quarter
Jordaan, the North Church was into the city and named warehouses and shipyards.
the first in Amsterdam to be Willemspoort. However, as the Some of these are still in use
constructed in the shape of a third gateway to be built on or and many period houses
Greek cross. Its layout around close to this site, it is still called have survived.
a central pulpit allowed the the Haarlemmerpoort by Merchant and developer Jan
congregation seated in the Amsterdammers. Bicker bought Bickerseiland in
encircling pews to see and Designed by Cornelis Alewijn 1631. Today, the island is a mix
hear well. (17881839), the Neo-Classical of colourful apartment blocks
The church, designed by gatehouse was used as tax offices and a jumble of houseboats.
Hendrick de Keyser, was in the 19th century and was made Realeneiland has the
completed in 1623, in time into flats in 1986. Traffic no pretty waterside street of
to hold its inaugural service at longer goes through the gate, Zandhoek. A row of pretty
Easter. It is still well attended since a bridge has been built 17th-century houses built
by a Calvinist congregation. By over the adjoining Westerkanaal. by the islands founder,
the entrance is a sculpture of In 2016, it was decided to Jacobsz Reaal, overlooks
three bound figures, inscribed: turn the ground floor of the the moored sailboats.
Unity is Strength. It com- building into an restaurant and Prinseneiland is dominated
memorates the Jordaan Riot caf, despite huge protests by by characterful warehouses,
of 1934. On the south faade, the locals. many now apartments.
a plaque recalls the 1941
February Strike, protesting the
Nazis deportation of Jews. Dutch Hofjes
Since 1627, the square that
Before the Alteration, the
surrounds the Noorderkerk
Catholic Church often provided
has been a market site. At that subsidized housing for the
time, it sold pots and pans and poor and elderly, particularly
vodden (old clothes), a tradition women. During the 17th and
that continues today with a 18th centuries, rich merchants
flea market. Since the 18th and Protestant organizations
century, the area has been a took on this charitable role and
centre for bed shops. Bedding, built hundreds of almshouse
curtains and fabrics are still complexes, which were planned
sold on Monday morning along around courtyards and known as
the Westerstraat; you can buy hofjes. Behind their street faades
anything from net curtain lie pretty houses and serene
material to buttons, as well as gardens. Visitors are admitted
vinyl records, vintage clothing to some but asked to respect
and other second-hand items. the residents privacy. Many
At 9am on Saturdays, the hugely hofjes are found in the Jordaan
popular boerenmarkt takes over, The house with the writing hand and some still serve their
selling health foods, ethnic (c.1630) in Claes Claeszhofje original purpose.
crafts and candles.
116 AMSTERDAM
departure, interpreting the Art burned down. The theatre

Nouveau style in an angular was designed by Jan Springer
Dutch fashion. The buildings and AL van Gendt, who
turreted exterior and elaborate was responsible for the
brickwork anticipated the Concertgebouw (see p124)
progressive Amsterdam and for part of the Centraal
School (see pp1467). Station (see p94). The planned
The Art Deco-style Caf ornamentation of the theatres
Americain is one of the most red-brick exterior was never
Star-lit faade of De Melkweg elegant in Amsterdam. It retains carried out because of budget
near Leidseplein its period furnishings and cuts. This, combined with a
stained-glass windows. The rest hostile public reaction to his
9 Leidseplein of the hotel was redecorated theatre, forced a disillusioned
Map 4 E2. v 1, 2, 5, 7, 10.
in the 1980s. Samples of the Springer into virtual retirement.
original furnishings are in the Public disgust was due, however,
Amsterdams liveliest square, Rijksmuseum (see pp1269). to the managements policy of
Leidseplein is also a busy tram restricting use of the front door
intersection and centre of to patrons who had bought
night-time transport. q Stadsschouwburg expensive tickets.
The square developed in the Leidseplein 26. Map 4 E2. Tel 020-
The former home of the
17th century as a wagon park on 6242311. v 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 10. Box office: Dutch national ballet and opera
the outskirts of the city farmers Open 10am6pm MonSat. See companies, the theatre today
and peasants would leave their Entertainment p151. & ^ 7 stages plays by local drama
carts here before entering the stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl groups such as the resident
centre. It takes its name from the Toneelgroep, as well as
Leidsepoort, the massive city This Neo-Renaissance building international companies,
gate demolished in 1862, which is the most recent of the citys including many English-
marked the beginning of the three successive municipal language productions. The foyer
route out to Leiden. theatres, its predecessors having houses a popular restaurant.
During the day, the square
is buzzing with fire-eaters,
buskers and other street
performers playing to caf
audiences. It is also popular
with pickpockets. At night, it
is the focal point for the citys
youth, who hang out in the
many bars, cafs, restaurants,
nightclubs and cinemas in and
around the square.
0 American Hotel
Leidsekade 97. Map 4 E2. Tel 020-
5563000. v 1, 2, 5, 7, 10. 0 -
Leidseplein was fast becoming

a fashionable entertainment
area when the American Hotel
was built overlooking it in 1882.
The hotel got its name because
its architect, W Steinigeweg,
studied hotel design in the
United States, and adorned his
Neo-Gothic creation with a
bronze eagle, wooden figures of
native Indians and murals of
American landscapes. Within 20
years it was deemed pass and
the hotel was demolished.
The present building is by
Willem Kromhout (18641940)
and was completed in 1902.
His design marked a radical The American Hotel seen from Singelgracht
CANAL RING 117
w De Krijtberg the Immaculate

Singel 448. Map 4 F1. Tel 020-6231923.
Conception, which
v 1, 2, 5. Open noon1:15pm & 5 shows Mary trampling
6:15pm Mon & Fri, noon6:15pm Tue the serpent. It used
Sat, 9am6:30pm Sun. 5 12:30pm, to be housed in the
5:45pm MonFri, 12:30pm, 5:15pm original hidden chapel.
Sat, 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, 5:15pm
Sun. 7 krijtberg.nl
e Bijbels
An impressive Neo-Gothic Museum
church, the Krijtberg (or chalk Herengracht 366368.
hill) replaced a clandestine Map 4 E1. Tel 020-
Jesuit chapel in 1884. It is 6242436. v 1, 2, 5. Grand faade of the Stadsarchief
officially known as Franciscus 4 Herengracht/Leidsegracht.
Xaveriuskerk, after St Francis Open 10am5pm TueSun & public tStadsarchief
Xavier, one of the founding hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr. & 7 Amsterdam
Jesuit monks. bijbelsmuseum.nl
Designed by Alfred Tepe, Vijzelstraat 32. Map 4 F2. Tel 020-
the church was built on the site Reverend Leendert Schouten 5720202. v 16, 24. Open 10am
5pm TueFri, noon5pm Sat &
of three houses; the presbytery founded the Bible Museum in
Sun. Closed Mon & public hols.
beside the church is on the site 1860, when he put his private 7 (with permission).
of two other houses, one of artifact collection on public stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl
which had belonged to a chalk display. In 1975, the museum
merchant hence the churchs moved to its present site, The Stadsarchief, the citys
nickname. The back of the two 17th-century houses municipal archives, moved
church is wider than the front, designed by Philips Vingboons. from its former location
extending into the space once Highlights are a copy of the in Amsteldijk to this
occupied by the original gardens. Book of Isaiah from the Dead monumental building.
The narrowness of the faade Sea Scrolls and the Delft Designed by KPC de Bazel,
is redeemed by its two magnifi- Bible (1477). one of the principal represen-
cent, soaring, steepled towers. tatives of the Amsterdam
The ornate interior of the School of Architecture, the
building contains some good r Looier Kunst en edifice was completed in 1926
examples of Neo-Gothic design. Antiekcentrum for the Netherlands Trading
The stained-glass windows, walls Elandsgracht 109. Map 4 D1.
Company. In spite of much
painted in bright colours and Tel 020-6249038. v 7, 10, 13, 14, 17. renovation work at the end of
liberal use of gold are in striking Open 11am6pm daily (to 5pm World War II and in the 1970s,
contrast to the citys austere Sat & Sun). Closed public hols. ^ 7 the building retains many
Protestant churches. A statue of antiekcentrumamsterdam.nl attractive original features,
St Francis Xavier stands in front such as colourful floor
and to the left of the high altar; The Looier antiques centre is mosaics (designed by de
one of St Ignatius, founder of the a vast network of rooms in a Bazel himself ). There is a
Jesuits, stands to the right. block of houses near the canal. permanent display of treasures
Near the pulpit is an 18th- Its 100 stalls sell everything from the archives in the
century wooden statue of from glassware to dolls. monumental vaults.
On the Canals
Though Amsterdams canals were built for moving
goods, today they provide a marvellous means of
viewing the citys sights and its everyday life. There
are many operators in the city offering canal tours
with foreign-language commentaries; boats depart
from an embarkation point, mainly from opposite
Centraal Station, along Prins Hendrikkade, the
Damrak and along the Rokin. Another canal-
sightseeing option is the popular canalbus which
runs along three routes, with 14 stops near the
major museums, shopping areas and other
attractions. If you feel energetic, try a canal bike,
which is really a two- or four-seater pedal-boat that
can be picked up and left at any of the canal-bike
moorings in the city centre.
118 AMSTERDAM
y Rembrandtplein
Map 5 A2. v 4, 9, 14.
Formerly called the Botermarkt,

after the butter market held
here until the mid-19th century,
this square acquired its present
name when the statue of
Rembrandt was erected in 1876.
Soon afterwards,
Rembrandtplein developed into
a centre for nightlife with the
opening of various hotels and
cafs. The Mast (renamed the
Mille Colonnes Hotel) dates
from 1889, and the Schiller
Karena hotel and the Caf
Schiller both opened in 1892.
De Kroon, which epitomizes a
typical grand caf, dates from
1898. The popularity of
Rembrandtplein has endured,
and the caf terraces are packed
during summer with people
enjoying a pleasant drink and
watching the world go by.
u Museum Willet-
Holthuysen
Herengracht 605. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-
5231822. v 4, 9, 14. Open 10am
5pm MonFri, 11am5pm Sat & Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. 8 &
= willetholthuysen.nl Two of the many outdoor cafs on Rembrandtplein
Named after the buildings last Louisa and her art-connoisseur i Magere Brug
residents, the museum now husband, Abraham Willet both
Amstel. Map 5 B3. v 4.
housed here allows visitors a fervent collectors of paintings,
glimpse into the lives of the glass, silver and ceramics. When Of Amsterdams 1,400 or so
merchant class who lived in Louisa died childless in 1895, the bridges, Magere Brug (skinny
luxury along the Grachtengordel house and its many treasures bridge) is the best-known.
(Canal Ring). The house was were left to the city. Room by The original drawbridge was
built in 1685 and became the room, the house is gradually built in about 1670. According
property of coal magnate Pieter being restored to appear as it to legend, it was named after
Holthuysen (17881858) in did during the time when two sisters called Mager,
1855. It passed to his daughter Abraham and Louisa lived here. who lived either side of the
The Blue Room, hung with Amstel. It is more likely that
heavy blue damask and boasting the name comes from its
a chimney piece by Jacob de narrow (mager) design.
Wit, was the exclusive preserve
of the men of the house.
The wallpaper in the dining
room today is a careful copy
of the 18th-century silk original.
The elaborate 275-piece Meissen
dinner service provided up to
24 places.
The 18th-century kitchen
has been restored using items
salvaged from similar houses,
including the sink and pump.
Interior of Willet-Holthuysen museum, on On the second floor is a full- Magere Brug, a traditional double-leaf
the Herengracht canal length portrait of Willet. Dutch drawbridge
CANAL RING 119
The present drawbridge was 1600s. The period rooms

put up in 1969 and, though have fine pieces of furniture,
wider than the original, it porcelain and sculpture.
still conforms to the traditional Outside, the 18th-century
double-leaf style. Constructed coach house has been restored
from African azobe wood, it and houses the Van Loon
was intended to last 50 years. carriages and servants livery.
The bridge is opened a
few times every day. It has
been featured in many films, p Tuschinski
most notable being the Theater
James Bond film Diamonds Reguliersbreestraat 2628. Map 5 A2.
are Forever. Tel 0900-1458. v 4, 9, 14. Box office:
Open 11:30am10pm. & ^ 8
o Museum Van Abraham Tuschinskis cinema
Loon and variety theatre caused a
Keizersgracht 672. Map 5 A3. Tel 020-
sensation when it opened in
6245255. v 16. Open 11am5pm 1921. Until then, Amsterdams
WedMon. Closed public hols. & 8 cinemas had been sombre
museumvanloon.nl places; this was an exotic
blend of Art Deco and
The Van Loons were one of Amsterdam School archi-
Amsterdams most prestigious tecture (see pp1467). Built The medieval Munttoren at the base
families in the 17th century. in a slum area known of Muntplein
They did not move into this as Devils Corner, it was
house on the Keizersgracht, designed by Heyman Louis de a Munttoren
however, until 1884. Designed Jong and decorated by Chris Muntplein. Map 4 F1. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
by Adriaan Dortsman, No. 672 Bartels, Jaap Gidding and Munttoren: Closed to public. Gift
is one of a pair of symmetrical Pieter de Besten. In its heyday, shop: Open 10am6pm MonSat.
houses built in 1672 for Marlene Dietrich and Judy
Flemish merchant Jeremias Garland performed here. The polygonal base of the
van Raey. In 1752, Dr Abraham Now a six-screen cinema, Munttoren (mint tower) formed
van Hagen and his wife, the building has been part of the gate in Amsterdams
Catharina Elisabeth Trip, meticulously restored, inside medieval wall. Fire destroyed
moved in. and out. The best way to the gate in 1618, but the base
In 1973, after many years appreciate its opulence is survived. In 1619, Hendrick de
of restoration, it opened as a to see a film. For a few extra Keyser added the clock tower;
museum, retaining the houses euros, you can take a seat in Franois Hemony, the set of
original character. Its collection one of the exotic boxes that bells in 1699. During the 1673
of Van Loon family portraits make up the back row of the French occupation, the city
stretches back to the early huge semicircular auditorium. mint was housed here.
How the Magere Brug Works

The balance
Steel is made up of
The arched wooden two counter-
cables
portal provides a pivot weighted beams.
for the balance.
Each deck has

Mechanical a span of about
chain-drive 5 m (16 ft).
AMSTERDAM 121
MUSEUM QUARTER
Until the late 1800s, the Museum Quarter Museumplein has two memorials to the
was little more than an area of farms and victims of World War II. The plein is still used
small-holdings. At this time, the city council today as a site for political demonstrations.
designated it an area of art and culture and To the north and south are late 19th-
plans were conceived for constructing and early 20th-century houses, where
Amsterdams great cultural monuments: the streets are named after artists and
the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk Museum intellectuals, such as the 17th-century
and the Concertgebouw. The Van Gogh Dutch poet Roemer Visscher. To the west,
Museum followed in 1973, its striking the Vondelpark offers a pleasant, fresh-air
extension being added in 1999. The break from all the museums.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Workshops Historic Buildings
1 Rijksmuseum pp1269 7 Hollandsche Manege
2 Coster Diamonds 8 Vondelkerk
3 Van Gogh Museum pp13031
Parks
4 Stedelijk Museum pp1323
9 Vondelparkpaviljoen 6 Vondelpark
Concert Halls
5 Concertgebouw

map 3 & 4
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Rembrandts famous painting, The Night Watch, at the Rijksmuseum For map symbols see back flap
122 AMSTERDAM
Street-by-Street: Museum Quarter

The green expanse of Museumplein was once
bisected by a busy main road known locally
as the shortest motorway in Europe. But
dramatic renovation between 1996 and 1999
has transformed it into a stately park, fringed by
Amsterdams major cultural centres. The district is
one of the wealthiest in the city, with wide streets
lined with grand houses. After the heady delights
of the museums, it is possible to window-shop at 3 . Van Gogh Museum
the many upmarket boutiques along the exclusive The new wing of the museum, an
PC Hooftstraat and Van Baerlestraat, or watch the elegant oval shape, was designed
by Kisho Kurokawa and opened in
diamond polishers at work in Coster Diamonds. 1999. It is dedicated to temporary
exhibitions of 19th-century art.
HO
NT
Van Baerlestraat
HO
contains exclusive
clothing shops (see p148).
RS
TS
VA
TR
N
DE
R
VE
LD
4 . Stedelijk AT
ES
RA
Museum ST
TR
R
Housing the civic TE
P OT
collection of modern S
LU
art, this museum also U
PA
stages controversial
contemporary art
exhibitions. A sculpture
garden is behind
the building.
VA
N
BA
ER
LE
ST
RA
AT
5 Concertgebouw
Designed by AL van Gendt,
the building has a Classical
faade and a concert hall
with near-perfect acoustics.
MUSEUM QUARTER 123
2 Coster Diamonds CANAL

Diamonds have been cut, polished and RING
sold at Coster since 1840. The firm now

occupies three splendid adjoining villas,
MUSEUM
built on Museumplein in 1896. QUARTER
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4
Lines of light along

the ground
HO
BB
EM
AS
TR
AA
T
Pond/ ice rink
1 . Rijksmuseum
The heavily ornamented
Neo-Gothic Rijksmuseum
holds the magnificent
Dutch national art
collection of some 5,000
paintings, 30,000 pieces of
M E E R S T R A AT
applied art and 17,000

historical artifacts.
JOHANNES VER
EIN
PL
UM
SE
MU
The Rijksmuseum is
surrounded by gardens
The Ravensbrck that contain statuary.
monument commem- This weathered bronze
orates women victims of Mercury, designed
of the Holocaust. by Ferdinand Leenhoff
(18411914), is found
Key 0 metres
in the southeast garden.
50
Recommended route 0 yards 50

124 AMSTERDAM
1 Rijksmuseum
See pp1269.
2 Coster Diamonds
Paulus Potterstraat 28. Map 4 E3.
Tel 020-3055555. v 2, 5. Open
9am5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
8 - costerdiamonds.com
One of Amsterdams oldest

diamond factories, Coster was
founded in 1840. Twelve years
later, Queen Victorias consort,
Prince Albert, honoured the Faade of the award-winning Concertgebouw (1881) by AL van Gendt
company by giving them
the task of repolishing the 5 Concertgebouw the building. Though primarily
enormous Koh-i-Noor (mountain Concertgebouwplein 26. Map 4 D4.
designed to hold concerts, the
of light) diamond. This blue- Tel 0900-6718345. v 2, 3, 5, 12, 16. Concertgebouw also hosts
white stone is one of the Box office: Open 17pm MonFri, business meetings, exhibitions,
treasures of the British crown 10am7pm Sat & Sun. & ^ 7 by conferences, political meetings
jewels and weighs in at 108.8 arrangement. 8 5pm Mon, 12:15pm and occasional boxing matches.
carats. A replica of the Sun. concertgebouw.nl
coronation crown, which
incorporates a copy of the Following an open architectural
fabulous stone, is found in competition held in 1881, AL
Costers spacious entrance hall. van Gendt (18351901) was
More than 1,000 people visit chosen to design a vast new
the factory each day to witness concert hall for Amsterdam. The
the processes of grading, resulting Neo-Renaissance
cutting and polishing the building boasts an elaborate
stones. The goldsmiths and pediment and colonnaded
diamond-cutters work together faade, and houses two concert
in the factory to produce halls. Despite van Gendts lack of
customized items of jewellery, musical knowledge, he
in a range of styles, which are managed to produce near-
available over the counter. In perfect acoustics in the Grote Bandstand in Vondelpark, popular
the Diamond Museum, the Zaal (main concert hall), which among locals
history of the diamond is traced, is renowned the world over.
from its creation deep in the The inaugural concert at the 6 Vondelpark
earth to the dazzling stones Concertgebouw was held on Stadhouderskade. Map 4 E2.
that are a girls best friend. 11 April 1888, complete with v 1, 2, 3, 5,12. Park: Open 24hrs daily.
an orchestra of 120 musicians Open-air theatre: Open Junlast week
and a choir of 600. A resident Aug: WedSun.
orchestra was established at
the hall seven months later. In 1864, a group consisting of
The building has been prominent Amsterdammers
renovated several times over formed a committee with the
the years, most recently in 1983, aim of founding a public park,
when some serious subsidence and they raised enough money
threatened the buildings entire to buy 8 ha (20 acres) of land. JD
foundation. To remedy this, the and LP Zocher, a father-and-son
Glistening diamonds at Coster Diamonds whole superstructure had to be team of landscape architects,
lifted up off the ground while were then commissioned to
the original supporting piles, design the park in typical
3 Van Gogh which rested on sand 13 m (43 ft) English landscape style. They
Museum underground, were removed used vistas, pathways and
and replaced by concrete ponds to create the illusion of
See pp13031.
piles sunk into the ground to a large natural area, which was
a depth of 18 m (59 ft). A glass opened to the public on 15
4 Stedelijk extension and new entrance June 1865, as the Nieuwe Park.
were added by Pi de Bruijn in The parks present name was
Museum 1988. The original entrance was adopted in 1867, when a statue
See pp1323. relocated round to the side of of Dutch poet Joost van den
MUSEUM QUARTER 125
Vondel (15871679) was

erected on the grounds. The
committee soon began to raise
money to enlarge the park, and
by June 1877 it had reached its
current dimensions of 47 ha
(116 acres). The park now
supports around 100 plant
species and 127 types of tree.
Squirrels, hedgehogs, ducks and
garden birds mix with a huge
colony of greedy, bright green
parakeets, which gather in front
of the pavilion every morning
to be fed. Herds of cows, sheep,
goats and even a lone llama
graze in the pastures.
Vondelpark welcomes about Faade of the Hollandse Manege, the Dutch riding school
8 million visitors a year, and is
popular with the locals for dog- glory. The Neo-Classical indoor saved the nave by forcing the
walking, jogging, or just for the arena boasts gilded mirrors and burning tower to fall away into
view. Free concerts are given at moulded horses heads on its Vondelpark. A new tower was
the openluchttheater (open-air elaborate plasterwork walls. added later by the architects
theatre) or at the bandstand Some of the wrought-iron stalls son, JT Cuypers. The church
during summer. remain and sound is muffled was deconsecrated in 1979 and
by sawdust. At the top of the converted into offices in 1985.
staircase, one door leads to a
7 Hollandsche balcony overlooking the arena,
9 Vondelpark-
Manege another to the caf.
Vondelstraat 140. Map 3 C2. Tel 020-
paviljoen
6180942. v 1. Open 9am11pm Vondelpark 3. Map 4 D2. Closed to
MonFri, 9:30am6pm Sat & Sun. - 8 Vondelkerk the public, renovations underway.
Vondelstraat 120. Map 3 C2. v 1, 3,
The Dutch riding school was 12. Closed to the public. Vondelparks pavilion was
originally situated on the designed by the architects
Leidsegracht, but in 1882 a new The Vondelkerk was the largest PJ Hamer (181287) and his
building was opened, designed church designed by PJH Cuypers, son W Hamer (18431913),
by AL van Gendt and based on architect of the Centraal Station. and opened on 4 May 1881
the Spanish Riding School in Work began in 1872, but funds as a caf and restaurant. After
Vienna. The riding school was ran out by the following year. World War II, it reopened as a
threatened with demolition in Money gathered from public cultural centre. In 1991, the
the 1980s, but was saved after donations and lotteries allowed pavilion was renovated once
a public outcry. Reopened in the building to be completed more. The complete Art Deco
1986 by Prince Bernhard, it has by 1880. When fire broke out in interior of the Cinema Parisien,
been restored to its former November 1904, firefighters Amsterdams first cinema,
built in 1910, was moved into
one of the rooms. At one
point, it housed an important
national film museum, EYE,
which screened more than
1,000 films a year. The
museum, however, which
also features a lovely film
poster collection, has been
shifted to a new building on
Badhuisweg. The Vondelpark-
paviljoen underwent
extensive renovations in
recent years and now
functions as a TV and radio
media centre, complete with
a caf and restaurant. The
surrounding garden has been
Built in 1880, the striking Vondelkerk now houses a number of offices beautifully re-landscaped.
126 AMSTERDAM
1 Rijksmuseum
The Rijksmuseum, an Amsterdam landmark, possesses Second floor
an unrivalled collection of Dutch art, begun in the
early 19th century. The huge museum opened in
1885 to bitter criticism from Amsterdams Protestant
community for its Neo-Gothic style. Also worth a visit
are the surrounding gardens, which were redesigned
to match the museums reno-
vation, completed in 2013.
Winter Landscape with

Skaters (1618)
Painter Hendrick Avercamp
specialized in intricate icy
winter scenes.
. The Kitchen
Maid (1658)
The light falling through
the window and the First floor
stillness of this scene are
typical of Jan Vermeer.
The Gothic faade

of PJH Cuypers
building is red brick
with elaborate
decoration, including
coloured tiles.
Gallery Guide
The basement of the museum
houses its Special Collections
and Asian Pavilion. The ground
floor features works from the
18th and 19th centuries, the
first floor has works from the
Golden Age, while the second
floor features works from the
20th century.
Key to Floorplan
Special collections
Medieval and Renaissance art
Golden Age
18th-century art
19th-century art . St Elizabeths Day Flood (1500)
An unknown artist painted this altarpiece,
20th-century art
showing a disastrous flood in 1421. The dykes
Asian Pavilion protecting Dordrecht were breached, and 22
Non-exhibition space villages were swept away by the flood water.
MUSEUM QUARTER 127
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Museumstraat 1. Map 4 E3.
Tel 020-6747000.
rijksmuseum.nl
Open 9am5pm daily. & ^
789=
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 16.
4 Stadhouderskade.
. The Night Watch (1642)

The showpiece of Dutch
17th-century art, this vast canvas was
commissioned as a group portrait of
an Amsterdam militia company.
Gallery of St Catherine (c.1465)

Honour This sculpture by the Master of
Koudewater shows the saint stamping
on Emperor Maxentius, who allegedly
killed her with his sword.
Ground
floor
Cuypers
Library
Entrance
Jan Steens Woman at her Toilet was painted in
about 1660
Genre Painting
For the contemporaries of Jan Steen (1625
79), this cosy everyday scene was full of
Basement symbols that are obscure to the modern
viewer. The dog on the pillow may
represent fidelity, and the red stockings
the womans sexuality; she is probably a
prostitute. Such genre paintings were often
raunchy, but nearly always had a moral
twist domestic scenes by artists such
as ter Borch and Honthorst were symbolic
of brothels, while other works illustrated
proverbs. Symbols like candles or skulls
indicated mortality.
Auditorium
128 AMSTERDAM
Exploring the Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum is almost too vast to be seen in a single
visit. It is famous for owning probably the best collection
of Dutch art in the world, from early religious works to the
masterpieces of the Golden Age. However, the applied art
and sculpture sections, and the Asiatic artifacts, are equally
wonderful. In total, 8,000 pieces of art are on display in 80
wings. The selected pieces demonstrate the enormous
prosperity of Hollands Golden Age in the 17th century.
Rembrandts The Night Watch is one of the masterpieces
on display.
These works are mostly

Dutch History religious, such as The Seven
The turbulent history of the Works of Charity (1504) by the
Netherlands is encapsulated Master of Alkmaar, Jan van
in this section. In the opening Scorels quasi-Mannerist Mary
room is the medieval altar Magdalene (1528) and Lucas
painting of St Elizabeths Day van Leydens triptych, Adoration Feeding the Hungry from a series of panels
Flood (see p126). The central of the Golden Calf (1530). As by the Master of Alkmaar
room has 17th-century ship the 16th century progressed,
models, artifacts salvaged religious themes were super- lived and worked around
from shipwrecks and paintings seded by pastoral subjects; by Amsterdam at this time.
of factories and townscapes 1552, paintings like Pieter Examples of his work hanging
from the days of the Dutch Aertsens The Egg Dance were in the Rijksmuseum include
Empire. Later displays recall full of realism, by then the Portrait of Titus in a Monks Habit
battles in naval history; exhibits keystone of much Dutch art. (1660), Self- Portrait as the
from the 18th century deal with Apostle Paul (1661), The Jewish
the impact of revolutionary Bride (see pp3031), as well as
France on Amsterdam, ending in 17th-century Painting The Night Watch (see p127). Look
1815 after the Napoleonic Wars. By the Alteration in 1578, out too for the work of his many
Dutch art had moved away pupils, who included, among
completely from religious to others, Nicolaes Maes and
Early Painting and secular themes. Artists turned to Ferdinand Bol.
Foreign Schools realistic portraiture, landscapes, Dont miss Jan Vermeers
Alongside a small collection of still lifes, seascapes, domestic (163275) serenely light-filled
Flemish and Italian art, including interiors, including genre work interiors including The Kitchen
portraits by Piero di Cosimo (see p127), and animal portraits. Maid (see p126) and The Woman
(14621521), are the first Rembrandt (see p80) is the most Reading a Letter (1662). Of
specifically Dutch paintings. famous of many artists who several portraits by Frans Hals
(see pp19091), the best known
are The Wedding Portrait and
The Merry Drinker (1630). The
Windmill at Wijk by Jacob van
Ruisdael (162882) is a great
landscape by an artist at the
very height of his power. Other
artists whose works contribute
to this unforgettable collection
include Pieter Saenredam
(see p57), Jan van de Capelle,
Jan Steen (see p127) and
Gerard Terborch.
18th- and 19th-century

Painting
In many ways, 18th-century
Dutch painting merely
continued the themes and
The Wedding Portrait (c.1622) by Frans Hals quality of 17th-century work.
MUSEUM QUARTER 129
This is particularly true of

portraiture and still lifes, with the
evocative Still Life with Flowers
and Fruit by Jan van Huysum
(16821749) standing out. A
trend developed later for elegant
conversation pieces by artists
such as Adriaan van der Werff
(16591722) and Cornelis Troost
(16961750). Most had satirical
undertones, like The Art Gallery
of Jan Gildemeester Jansz (1794)
by Adriaan de Lelie (17551820),
showing an 18th-century salon
whose walls are crowded with
17th-century masterpieces.
Hague School and the

Impressionists
The so-called Hague School was
made up of a group of Dutch
artists who came together
around 1870 in The Hague. Their
landscape work, which earned
them the alternative title the
Grey School for their overcast
skies, captures the atmospheric
quality of subdued Dutch
sunlight. One of the prizes of
the Rijksmuseums 19th-century Still Life with Flowers and Fruit (c.1730) by artist Jan van Huysum (16821740), one of
collection is Morning Ride on the many still lifes exhibited in the Rijksmuseum
Beach (1876) by Anton Mauve
(183888), painted in soft pearly are modelled on contemporary
colours. Alongside hangs the town houses. Some outstanding Asiatic Art
beautiful polder landscape View 18th-century Meissen porcelain Rewards of the Dutch imperial
near the Geestbrug by Hendrik and Art Nouveau glass complete trading past are on show in
Weissenbruch (18241903). the collection. this department, which has a
In contrast, the Dutch separate entrance at the rear
Impressionists, closely linked of the museum. Some of the
to the French Impressionists, Prints and Drawings earliest artifacts are the most
preferred active subjects such The Rijksmuseum owns about unusual: tiny bronze Tang
as The Bridge over the Singel at a million prints and drawings. dynasty figurines from 7th-
Paleisstraat, Amsterdam Although the emphasis is century China and gritty,
(1890) by George Hendrik on Dutch works (most of granite rock carvings from
Breitner (18571923). Rembrandts etchings as well as Java (c.8th century). Later
rare works by Hercules Seghers exhibits include a lovely
(c.15891637) are here), there and extremely explicit Hindu
Sculpture and are prints by major European statue entitled Heavenly
Applied Arts artists, including Drer, Beauty, luscious
Beginning with religious Tiepolo, Goya, Chinese parchment
medieval sculpture, this section Watteau and paintings of tigers,
moves on to the splendour Toulouse-Lautrec, inlaid Korean boxes
of Renaissance furniture and as well as a set of and Vietnamese
decoration. Highlights that coloured Japanese dishes painted
capture the wealth of the Golden woodcuts. Small with curly-tailed
Age include the exquisite exhibitions are held fish. This is a
collections of glassware and on the ground floor veritable hoard of
Delftware (see pp323), and of the museum, but delights and, above
diamond jewellery. A late particular prints can be all, a monument to
17th-century, 12-leaf Chinese viewed with special the sophistication and
screen incorporates European permission from the skill of craftsmen
figures on one side, a phoenix on Study Collection in Late 7th-century Cambodian and artists in early
the other; and two dolls houses the basement. Head of Buddha Eastern cultures.
130 AMSTERDAM
3 Van Gogh Museum

The Van Gogh Museum is based on a design by De Stijl
architect Gerrit Rietveld (see pp2089) and opened in 1973.
A new wing, designed by Kisho Kurokawa, was added in
1999. When Van Gogh died in 1890, he was on the verge of
being acclaimed. His younger brother Theo, an art dealer,
amassed a collection of 200 of his paintings and 500 Third floor
drawings. These, combined with around 850 letters
by Van Gogh to Theo, and selected works by his
friends and contemporaries, form the core of
the museums outstanding collection.
Stairs
. Vincents Bedroom in Arles (1888)

One of Van Goghs best-known works, this
was painted to celebrate his achievement
of domestic stability at the Yellow House Second floor
in Arles. He was so delighted with the (study collection)
colourful painting that he did it twice.
First floor
19th-century art
. Sunflowers (1889) Key to Floorplan

The vivid yellows and greens
in this version of Van Goghs Works by Van Gogh
Sunflowers have been enriched Study collection and Print room
by broad streaks of bright Other 19th-century paintings
mauve and red.
Temporary exhibitions
Museum Guide
Paintings from Van Goghs Dutch period and from his time in Paris Entrance =
and Provence are on the first floor. The study collection, occasional
exhibits of Van Goghs drawings and other temporary exhibitions Ground floor
are on the second floor. Works by other 19th-century artists are
on the third floor and the ground floor, where there is also a
bookshop and caf. The new wing houses temporary exhibitions.
MUSEUM QUARTER 131
VISITORS CHECKLIST
An Artists Life
Vincent van Gogh (185390), born Practical Information
in Zundert, began painting in 1880. Paulus Potterstraat 7. Map 4 E3.
He worked in the Netherlands for five years Tel 020-5705200.
vangoghmuseum.com
before moving to Paris, later settling in Arles.
Open 10am5pm daily,
After a fierce argument with Gauguin, he cut
10am10pm Fri. Closed 1 Jan.
off part of his own ear; his mental instability &^97-0=
forced him into a psychiatric hospital in
Saint-Rmy. He sought help in Auvers, where Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 12, 16.
he shot himself, dying two days later. Van Gogh in 1871
First floor
Piet
Lift (after Delacroix) (1889)
Van Gogh painted this
work while in the
hospital at Saint-Rmy.
Stairs The figure of Christ
is thought to be a
self-portrait.
Lift
Stairs
Ground floor: . Wheatfield and Crows (1890)

Temporary exhibitions The menacing crows and
of 19th-century art violence of the sky in one of
his last paintings show the
depth of Van Goghs
Escalator to mental anguish.
new wing
Lift to new wing
Basement
Lift
Stairs
Main Entrance via

entrance Lift to Rietveld wing
escalator Pool
132 AMSTERDAM
4 Stedelijk Museum
The Stedelijk Museum was built to house a personal
collection bequeathed to the city in 1890 by art connoisseur
Sophia de Bruyn. In 1938, the museum became the national
museum of modern art, displaying works by artists such
as Picasso, Matisse, Mondriaan, Czanne and Monet. The
buildings new wing (nicknamed the bath tub) is an art piece
in itself. The museum also organizes workshops, events and
themed guided tours.
Portrait of the Artist with

Seven Fingers (1912)
Marc Chagalls self-portrait is
heavily autobiographical; the
seven fingers of the title Solidaridad con America
allude to the seven days of Latina (1970)
Creation and the artists The Stedelijks collection of rare
Jewish origins. Paris and posters comprises some 17,000
Rome, the cities Chagall lived works, including this graphic
in, are inscribed in Hebrew image by the Cuban human rights
above his head. campaigner Asela Perez.
Hendrick de Keyser
(15651621) Jacob Cornelisz van
Oostzaanen (14701533)
The Museum Building
The Neo-Renaissance building was
designed by AW Weissman (1858
1923) in 1895. The faade is adorned
with turrets and gables and with
niches containing statues of artists
and architects. It makes a striking
contrast with the spectacular new
wing by Benthem Crouwel that
houses a restaurant on the ground
floor which is also open for dinner.
Pieter Aertsen (150975) Joost Jansz Bilhamer (154190)
De Stijl Movement
The Dutch artistic movement known as De Stijl (The Style)
produced startlingly simple designs which have become icons of
20th-century abstract art. These include Gerrit Rietvelds famous
Red Blue Chair and Piet Mondriaans Composition in Red, Black,
Blue, Yellow and Grey (1920). The movement was formed in 1917
by a group of artists who espoused clarity in their work, which
embraced the mediums
of painting, architecture,
sculpture, poetry and
furniture design. Many
De Stijl artists, like Theo
van Doesburg, split from
the founding group in
the 1920s; their legacy
can be seen in the work
of the Bauhaus and
Modernist schools
which followed Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow and
Gerrit Rietvelds Red Blue Chair (1918) (see pp2089). Grey by Mondriaan
MUSEUM QUARTER 133
Dancing Woman (1911)

Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (18801938) was
VISITORS CHECKLIST
inspired by the primitive art of African and
Asian cultures, and by the natural qualities
Museumplein 10.
of the materials he worked with.
Map 4 D3. Tel 020-5732911.
stedelijk.nl
Open 10am6pm daily,
10am10pm Thu.
&^70=
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 12, 16.
. Kazimir Malevich
(18781935)
The Russian visual artist
Kazimir Malevich can be
counted, along with Piet
Mondriaan, as one of the
Man and Animals (1949) founders of abstract art. As
Karel Appel (b. 1921) was a member of the well as paintings, Malevich
short-lived experimental Cobra movement created posters, sculptures,
(see p193). The human figure, dog fish and furniture, interior decoration
mythical creature are painted in the naive and costumes.
style of a child. After studying Futurism
Elaborate and Cubism in Moscow, he
bell tower formulated a new art form
called Suprematism, an
abstract movement known
for its experimentation with
colour. Suprematisms central
element is the theory of
unlimited pre-eminence of
free invention in the artistic
process. Up until his 20s,
Malevich painted abstract
geometric forms. The square
was his supreme element.
The Stedelijk Museum
owns the largest part of the
paintings and sketches from
Malevichs Suprematist period.
Jan van der Heyden One of the most important
Jacob van Campen
(16371712) works, Suprematisme 1920
(15951657)
1927, was defaced by a visitor
to the museum in 1997.
Thomas de Keyser
In 1999, a conflict arose
(15961667) between the Malevich estate
and the Stedelijk Museum over
the ownership of the dozens
of Suprematist works from the
Stedelijks collection.
Untitled (1965)
Jasper Johns (b. 1930) believed viewers should draw their
own conclusions from his work. This huge canvas, with its
bold rainbow (red, blue and yellow streaks and slabs), invites Self-portrait by Malevich
the viewer to think about the symbolism of colour.
AMSTERDAM 135
OUTSIDE THE CENTRE

Great architecture and good town planning one of Amsterdams first suburbs. The
are not confined to central Amsterdam. Parts treelined streets around Artis and Hortus
of the Nieuw Zuid (New South) bear testa Botanicus are still popular places to live.
ment to the imagination of the innovative From the Werf t Kromhout, once a thriving
Amsterdam School architects (see pp1467). shipyard, there is a fine view of De Gooyer
Many fine buildings can be found in De Windmill, one of the few in Amsterdam to
Dageraad Housing complex and the streets survive. The national maritime collection is
around the Olympic Quarter. The area known kept at Scheepvaart Museum, a former naval
as the Plantage (plantation) was once green storehouse. NEMO, an educational science
parkland beyond the city wall, where centre, is nearby. Fine parks are just a short
17thcentury Amsterdammers spent their tram ride from the city centre and offer a
leisure time. From about 1848, it became host of leisure activities.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Structures Museums and Zoos
2 Entrepotdok 1 Scheepvaart Museum pp1367
3 Java-eiland and KNSM-eiland 6 Werfmuseum t Kromhout
4 Muiderpoort 9 NEMO Science Museum pp14041
5 De Gooyer Windmill 0 ARTIS-Amsterdam Royal Zoo pp1423
7 Koninklijk Theater Carr w Tropenmuseum
Key
8 Amstelsluizen e Hermitage Amsterdam
q Frankendael y Verzetsmuseum Central Amsterdam
r Heineken Experience Motorway
t Huizenblok de Dageraad
Main road
u De Hallen
Minor road
Markets
Railway
i De Pijp/Albert Cuypmarkt
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
Outside the Centre

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Replica of the Amsterdam, an East Indiaman, moored alongside the Scheepvaartmuseum For map symbols see back flap
136 AMSTERDAM
1 Scheepvaart Museum
Once the arsenal of the Dutch Navy, this vast Dutch Classical
building was designed by Danil Stalpaert in 1655. Constructed
around a massive courtyard, it was supported by thousands of
piles driven into the bed of the Oosterdok. The navy occupied
the building until the 20th century, and in 1973 it became the
Netherlands Maritime Museum. After a major renovation it
reopened in 2011; the courtyard, now covered by a vast glass
roof, forms the heart of the new exhibition space.
. Golden Age
Seven characters First
welcome you to this floor
exhibition covering
the golden era of
Dutch exploration
and trade in the 16th
and 17th centuries.
Ajax
This figurehead is from
a ship built in 1832. It
portrays Ajax, a hero of
the Trojan War, who killed
himself in despair when Classical sandstone
Achilles armour was faade
given to Odysseus.
Museum Guide
This museums exhibits reveal Dutch
maritime history. On a Virtual Sea Trip or
aboard the East Indiaman Amsterdam you
can relive the past; other exhibits tell the
stories of whaling, the Golden Age and
the port of Amsterdam. Objects on Stage
showcases the museums superb collection
of nautical paintings, navigation
instruments and antique globes.
Glass Canopy
The compass rose and
navigational lines on old sea
maps were the inspiration for Main
architect Laurent Neys criss- entrance
crossing steel armature
supporting the glass roof.
OUTSIDE THE CENTRE 137
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Second
floor Practical Information
Kattenburgerplein 1. Map 6 D1
Tel 020-5232222.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
Open 9am5pm daily. &
^70=
Transport
@ 22, 32. 4 Oosterdok,
Kattenburgergracht.
. Objects on Stage Key to Floorplan

This 18th-century clockwork model Golden Age
shows the movements of all the Paintings
planets known at the time.
Port of Amsterdam
Objects on Stage
Tale of the Whale
Full-size replica of a Temporary space
Dutch East Indiaman
Toddlers Museum
Virtual Sea Trip
Non-exhibition space
Auditorium
Steps down
to wooden
walkway
Ground
floor
The Amsterdam
Experience life aboard ship on the
Wooden replica of the Amsterdam, one
walkway of the ships that carried and
defended the rich cargoes of the
Dutch East India Company.
. Virtual Sea Trip

This exhibit takes visitors on a
virtual voyage, aided by artifacts
from the museum such as this
portrait of one of the most famous
admirals in Dutch naval history,
Michiel de Ruyter (160776).
138 AMSTERDAM
2 Entrepotdok of this Classical structure is

Map 6 D2. v 9, 14, 32. @ 22, 43.
topped with a dome and clock
tower. Napoleon entered the
The redevelopment of the old city through this gate in 1811
VOC warehouses at Entrepotdok and, according to legend, forced
has revitalized this dockland the citizens to feed and house
area. During the mid-19th his ragged troops.
century, it was the greatest
warehouse area in Europe,
being a customs-free zone for 5 De Gooyer
goods in transit. The quayside Windmill
buildings are now a lively Funenkade 5. Map 6 F2. v 10, 14.
complex of homes, offices Closed to the public.
and eating places. Some of
the original faades of the Of the six remaining windmills
warehouses have been within the citys boundaries,
preserved, unlike the interiors, De Gooyer, also known as the
which have been opened up Funenmolen, is the most
to provide an attractive inner central. Dominating the view
courtyard. Caf tables are often down the Nieuwevaart, the mill,
set out alongside the canal. On built around 1725, was the first
the other side, brightly coloured corn mill in the Netherlands to
houseboats are moored. The 18th-century De Gooyer windmill, with use streamlined sails.
its renovated balcony It first stood to the west of
its present site, but the Oranje
3 Java-eiland and Amsterdam canal atmosphere. Nassau barracks, built in 1814,
KNSM-eiland This is enhanced by the many acted as a windbreak, and
Map 6 D2. Java-eiland and KNSM-
shops and small cafs. KNSM- the mill was then moved piece
eiland @ 41, 42. v 10. eiland is slightly broader, by piece to the Funenkade.
giving architect Jo Coenen The octagonal wooden
Situated side by side in the the space to create a central structure was rebuilt on the
eastern docklands of the city avenue flanked on either side stone foot of an earlier water-
are the islands of Java-eiland, by tower blocks. pumping mill, demolished
which is long and narrow, and in 1812.
the broader KNSM-eiland. Java- By 1925, De Gooyer was in
eiland, designed by Sjoerd 4 Muiderpoort a very poor state of repair and
Soeters during the 1990s, Alexanderplein. Map 6 E3. v 7, 9,
was bought by the city council,
demonstrates a wide variety 10, 14. Closed to the public. which fully restored it. Since
of architectural styles. By then, the lower part of the mill,
combining these styles with a Formerly a city gate, the with its neat thatched roof
number of canals across the Muiderpoort was designed by and tiny windows, has been
island, the architect succeeded Cornelis Rauws (173272) in a private home, though its
in creating a very credible about 1770. The central archway massive sails still creak into
Spout-gable faades of former warehouses along Entrepotdok

7 Koninklijk
Theater Carr
Amstel 115125. Map 5 B3.
Tel 0900-2525255. v 4, 7, 9, 10.
q Weesperplein. Box office:
Open noon6pm daily. See
Entertainment p151. & 8 11am
Sat (phone in advance). ^ 7 -
theatercarre.nl
During the 19th century, the

annual visit of the Carr Circus
was a popular event. In 1868,
Oscar Carr built wooden
premises for the circus on
the banks of the Amstel river.
The city council considered
the structure a fire hazard,
so Carr persuaded them to
accept a permanent building
modelled on his other circus in
Cologne. Built in 1887, the new
structure included both a circus
ring and a stage.
The Classical
faade is richly
decorated with
sculpted heads of
dancers, jesters
KNSM-eiland: a thriving modern city district and clowns.
The Christmas
action sometimes. Next to involved to safeguard the circus is still one
the mill is the IJ brewery, with shipyards future as a historical of the annual
its own tasting room (www. site and helped turn it into highlights at the
brouwerijhetij.nl). a museum. theatre, but for
The museum is largely dedi- much of the year Pillar decoration
cated to the history of marine the stage is taken on Theater Carr
6 Werfmuseum t engineering, concentrating on over by concerts
Kromhout work carried out at the shipyard, and blockbuster musicals.
Hoogte Kadijk 147. Map 6 E2. Tel 020-
with steam engines, maritime
6276777. v 9, 10, 14. @ 22, 43. photographs and ephemera.
4 Oosterdok or Artis. Open Another point of interest is the 8 Amstelsluizen
10am3pm Tue and by appointment. shipyards forge featuring a Map 5 B3. v 4, 7, 9, 10, 14.
Closed public hols. & 7 8 variety of interesting tools and q Weesperplein.
machinekamer.nl equipment. Some impressive
historical ships are moored at The Amstelsluizen, a row of sturdy
The Werfmuseum t Kromhout the quayside. The museums wooden sluice gates spanning
is one of the oldest working eastern hall is sometimes used the Amstel river, form part of a
shipyards in Amsterdam and for receptions and dinners. complex system of sluices and
is also a museum. Ships were pumping stations that ensure
being built here as early as 1757. Amsterdams canals do not
In the second half of the 19th stagnate. Four times a week in
century, production changed summer and twice a week in
from sailing ships to steamships. winter, the sluices are closed
As ocean-going ships got bigger, while fresh water from large lakes
the yard, due to its relatively north of the city is allowed to flow
small size, turned to building into Amsterdams canals. Sluices
lighter craft for inland water- to the west of the city are left
ways. It is now used only for open, allowing the old water to
restoration and repair work. flow, or be pumped, into the sea.
In 1967, the Prince Bernhard The Amstelsluizen date
Fund bought the site, saving it from 1673, and were operated
from demolition. The Amsterdam The Werfmuseum t Kromhout museum, manually until 1994, when they
Monuments Fund later became located not far from the inner city were mechanized.
140 AMSTERDAM
9 NEMO Science Museum

NEMO Science Museum, an educational centre
for science and technology, is housed in a striking
modern building by the Italian architect Renzo
Piano. Designed as a reflection of the IJtunnel,
it overhangs the water by 30 m (99 ft): the view
World of
from the roof is breathtaking. There are five floors Shapes
of constantly changing things to do and discover, Discover
including interactive exhibitions, theatre shows, mathematics
films, workshops and demonstrations. in the world
around you.
. The Search for Life

Discover how life began
on our world, and
explore the possibilities
of alien life forms.
Bubble-blowing
Can you fit inside a giant
bubble? Experiment with
giant rings and vats of
soapy water.
KEY
1 The motorway approach to the

tunnel under the IJ is beneath the
building.
2 Machine Park focuses on
technology.
3 In the Laboratory you can
use real scientific equipment to
do experiments. . Chain Reaction
4 Bridge to the Centraal Station This entertaining show demonstrates cause and effect and
action and reaction, with plenty of audience participation.
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Nemo: the Philosophy
The word nemo is Latin for no one and refers to a world between Practical Information
fantasy and reality. At NEMO visitors can become a scientist or Oosterdok 2. Map 5 C1.
technician for a day. The name has been used by a number of Tel 0205313233
important writers over the centuries to describe events and people (groups 0205313118).
who find themselves on the thin line between reality and fantasy. For nemosciencemuseum.nl
example, Nemo turns up in the Latin translation of Homers Odyssey, Open 10am5:30pm TueSun;
when the protagonist Ulysses adopts the name to deceive the Cyclops. during school holidays: 10am
And Jules Verne, in his 1870 novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, enlists 5:30pm daily. Closed 1 Jan,
Nemo as the mystical captain of the underwater Nautilus, which 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 - 0
journeys in the shadowy world between reality and fantasy. He crops
up again in 1905, when American cartoonist Winsor McCay creates Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 26.
Little Nemo, a young boy whose dreamland adventures once again
@ 22, 42. q Centraal Station.
suggest a mingling of fact and fiction.
. View from the Roof

The buildings roof offers a stunning vista
of the port and city. In summer, it becomes a
popular leisure area. Visitors can also experi
ence the energy generated from wind, water
and the sun at Energetica on the rooftop.
Museum Guide
Level 1 (first floor) gives a glimpse
into how science works. On Levels
2, 3 and 4 you can unravel everyday Phenomena
technology and learn about the Both ordinary and extraordinary
cosmos. The rooftop is home to natural and scientific phenomena
Energetica, an open-air exhibition can be experienced in this
where visitors can explore various interactive exhibition.
forms of energy.
142 AMSTERDAM
0 Artis Royal Zoo Tiger Python

The female
specimen in
Amsterdams royal zoo is in Plantage, an Artis has borne
elegant Amsterdam neighbourhood of young simply by
broad tree-lined streets with elegant cloning herself.
painted sandstone houses. Some 750
different animal species live in Artis Zoo.
Visitors can see the historic nature of the
zoo as soon as they pass through the
entrance gates, which have been
decorated since 1854 with two golden
eagles. The Artis complex includes a
planetarium, where you can learn
about the heavens and stars, and
the fine Neo-Classical aquarium,
containing a wide variety of
marine life, from tropical fish and
sharks to huge moray eels.
. Planetarium
The planetarium
explores the
relationship between
humans and the stars.
The night sky is re-created
on the dome, and interactive
exhibitions show the positions
of the planets. Model spacecraft
are on display in the hall around
the auditorium. The interesting
slide show is specially designed
for youngsters.
KEY 0 metres 100
0 yards 100
1 The playground, situated next to
the Two Cheetahs restaurant, is
popular with children.
2 The northern side of the zoo
is currently used as a car park, but in
the near future will be added to the
zoo, with parking underground.
Macaws
These birds are a highly endangered
species which Artis helps preserve. The zoo
is renowned for its breeding programmes.
. African Savannah VISITORS CHECKLIST

In the African Savannah,
the animals roam in more Practical Information
natural surroundings. The Plantage Kerklaan 3840.
zebras, gnus and gazelles Tel 0900-2784796.
feel at home here. artis.nl
Open summer: 9am6pm daily
(open until sunset on Sat); winter:
9am5pm daily. & 7 - 0
Transport
v 9, 10, 14.
Gorillas
Gorilla Bintis son
Bwana was born as
part of the zoos
breeding programme.
Sea Lions
. Aquarium Feeding time for the
This fine Neo-Classical building from 1882 sea lions is a popular
is home to thousands of marine animals, and daily attraction
also contains fish from Amsterdams canals. at the zoo.
144 AMSTERDAM
q Frankendael
Middenweg 72. Map 6 F5. v 9.
@ 41, 65, 101, 136, 152, 157.
Gardens: Open dawndusk.
- huizefranendael.nl
During the early part of the 18th

century, many of Amsterdams
wealthier citizens built country
retreats south of Plantage
Middenlaan on reclaimed land
called the Watergraafsmeer.
The elegant Louis XIV-style
Frankendael is the last survivor.
The house is closed to the
public; the best views of the
ornamented faade are from
Middenweg. This is also the best
place to view the fountain made
in 1714 by Ignatius van Logteren
(16851732), a sculptor who,
along with his son, played a
central role in the development
of Amsterdams Louis XIV style.
The rear gardens have been
restored and are open to the pub-
lic. Behind the house is a small
formal garden, and beyond lies a
landscaped, English-style garden. The ornamental faade of Frankendael House
There are also allotment gardens.
The coach house is now home of imperialism, such as stone artist Gerrit Schoutens 1819
to caf-restaurant Merkelbach. friezes of peasants planting diorama made of papier-mch
rice. Upon completion of the and painted wood depicts life
buildings renovation in 1978, in Suriname.
the Royal Tropical Institute
opened a museum, with a huge
central hall and three levels of e Hermitage
galleries. The institutes aims are Amsterdam
to study and to help improve Amstel 51. Map 5 B2. Tel 020-530
the lives of the indigenous 8755. v 4, 9, 14. q Waterlooplein.
populations of the tropics. The 4 Muziektheater. Open 10am
Ignatius van Logterens fountain in the displays focus on development 5pm daily. & Free for under 11s.
grounds of the Frankendael issues regarding daily life, Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. 7 0
education and colonization. - = hermitage.nl
The impressive mask
w Tropenmuseum collection includes feathered In the early 1990s the State
Linnaeusstraat 2. Map 6 E3.
fertility masks from Zaire and Hermitage Museum in
Tropenmuseum: Tel 0800-4280. carved wooden masks from St Petersburg, Russia, chose
Open 10am5pm daily, 10am3pm Central America. Surinamese Amsterdam as the ideal city
24 Dec, 31 Dec. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, in which to open a satellite
5 May, 25 Dec. tropenmuseum.nl museum displaying temporary
Tropenmuseum Junior: Tel 0800-4280. exhibitions drawn from the
Open for special programmes in Hermitages rich collection.
Dutch language only (phone or see It is housed in the former
website). Closed as Tropenmuseum. Amstelhof a shelter for poor
v 9, 14. & 7 8 0 - = elderly women and opened
tropenmuseumjunior.nl in 2004 with a spectacular
exhibition of fine Greek gold
Built to house the Dutch jewellery from the 6th to the
Colonial Institute, this vast 2nd century BC. The museum,
complex was finished in which has an auditorium and
1926 by architects MA and a childrens wing, also has a fine
J Nieuwkerken. The exterior Balinese tiger protector mask and model restaurant, Neva, which is open
is decorated with symbols at the Tropenmuseum to non-visitors.
r Heineken
Experience
Stadhouderskade 78. Map 4 F3. Tel
020-523 9222. v 7, 10, 16. Open
10:30am7:30pm MonThu, 10:30am
9pm FriSun (Jul & Aug: 10:30am
9pm daily). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
7 = Under 18s with parents only.
heinekenexperience.com
This historic 1867 building once

housed the Heineken brewery.
Now it offers an exhibition of
how beer is made, culminating
in a tasting room where you
can have a drink. Visitors inside the Heineken Experience museum
y Verzetsmuseum against the deportation of the

tHuizenblok De Jews, are brought to life by
Plantage Kerklaan 61. Map 6 D2.
Dageraad Tel 020-6202535. v 9, 14. exhibits showing where the
Pieter Lodewijk Takstraat. v 4, 12, 25. Open 10am5pm TueFri, refugees hid and how food for
Closed to the public. 11am5pm SatMon. Closed 1 Jan, them was smuggled in.
27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - 0
One of the best examples of verzetsmuseum.org
Amsterdam School architecture u De Hallen
(see pp1467), De Dageraad Previously based in a former Hannie Dankbaar Passage 33.
(the Dawn) housing project was synagogue in Nieuw Zuid v 7, 17. Open 7am1pm Mon
developed for poorer families (New South), now at a site in Thu & Sun, 7am3pm Fri & Sat.
following the Housing Act of the Plantage, the Resistance 8 dehallen-amsterdam.nl
1901, by which the city council Museum holds a fascinating
condemned slums and collection of memorabilia A huge, unused tram depot
rethought housing policy. recording the activities of Dutch has been transformed into an
Architect HP Berlage drew up Resistance workers in World upscale cultural and commercial
plans for the suburbs, aiming War II. It was set up by former centre consisting of a range of
to integrate rich and poor by members of the Resistance designer shops, restaurants, bars
juxtaposing their housing. and focuses on the courage of and international food market,
After Berlages death, Piet the 25,000 people actively as well as a cinema complex
Kramer and Michel de Klerk involved in the movement. and a hotel. Visitors can also take
adopted his ideas. From False documents, weaponry, guided tours of De Hallen and
191823, they designed this film clips, photographs and its neighbourhood that offer
complex for the De Dageraad equipment are on display. a glimpse into the architecture
housing association. By 1945 there were 300,000 of the area.
people in hiding in the
Netherlands, including Jews
and anti-Nazi Dutch. Events i De Pijp/Albert
organized by the Resistance, Cuypmarkt
like the February Strike Albert Cuypstraat. Map 5 A5. v 4, 16.
Open 9:30am5pm MonSat.
The Albert Cuypmarkt, part of

the De Pijp area, began trading
in 1904 and is still going strong,
with over 325 stalls selling
flowers, clothing, poultry, fish
and other items. De Pijp, once
a poor working-class sector,
has turned into one of the citys
liveliest and most popular
areas. The neighbourhood has
gentrified and now features
designer bars, restaurants and
trendy shops, while Sarphatipark
is a haven of tranquility amid
Imposing corner block of De Dageraad public housing the hustle and bustle.
146 AMSTERDAM
The Amsterdam School

The industrial revolution at the end of the 19th century
led to a boom in the growth of towns. New districts grew
around Amsterdam to accommodate the growing number
of factory workers. The architects of these districts, who
sought new elements for decorating building faades,
became known collectively as the Amsterdam School. Their
Curves and serpentines on
designs were characterized by exotic rooflines, ornamental faades are typical features
brickwork, cornices, window frames and corner formations of the Amsterdam School.
which gave the faades movement.
The Scheepvaarthuis was erected on the spot where in 1595
Cornelis Houtman set off on his first voyage to the East Indies.
The Betondorp (Concrete Village), officially

known as Tuindorp Watergraafsmeer, was the
first place where experimental concrete-work
was used. It also features many brick buildings
in the Amsterdam School style. Dutch football
legend Johan Cruiff was born here.
HP Berlage (18561934)
Berlage studied at the technical college of
Zurich from 1875 to 1878, where he came into
contact with architects such as Semper
and Viollet-le-Duc. Inspired by their
ideas, he developed his own style,
which incorporated traditional
Dutch materials. It later evolved
into the Amsterdam School style
of architecture. Berlage designed
not only buildings but also
interiors, furniture and graphics. In
1896, he was appointed to design
the Beurs, the new stock exchange
in Amsterdam (see p95).
Completed in 1903, it is an
austere building whose
structure is clearly visible.
Berlage was also active
as a town planner. His
design of Amsterdam-
Zuid (Plan Zuid) consists
of monumental residential
blocks. At its centre stands
JF Staals Wolkenkrabber
(skyscraper).
Detail of a set of windows on the Zaanstraat
Het Schip, built by Michel de Klerk, is a former post office

which now provides a home for the Museum voor de
Volkshuisvesting (museum of public housing).
Interiors and
exteriors are
characterized by
an excess of
expressionist glass An astonishing variety of
ornamentation decoration could be achieved
and details. with this kind of brickwork.
Sculptures
Amsterdam School lettering
The Architecture of the Amsterdam School

From 1911 to 1923, the members of the Amsterdam
School built a large number of office and residential Street furniture
was among the
complexes. One of the greatest examples of
repertoire of the
this is the Scheepvaarthuis (191316 and
Amsterdam School
19268), which is today the Grand Hotel Amrth architects. In the
Amsterdam, which also organizes tours for non- Spaarndammerbuurt
residents. It is the first building to be completed in particular, many
entirely in the Amsterdam School style. It was examples can still be
designed by the Van Gendt brothers and JM van seen, including fire
Michel de Klerk der Meij. Michel de Klerk, who later designed Het alarms, cable boxes
(18841923) Schip, was also involved in the project. and post boxes.
148 AMSTERDAM
SHOPPING IN AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam has a huge range of shops and specialist shops selling everything
markets. Most of the large clothing and from ethnic fabrics and beads to
department stores are to be found in the unusual games and handmade dolls.
Nieuwe Zijde, especially along Kalverstraat, The best luxury fashion is to be found
but there are many other shopping areas on PC Hooftstraat and Van Baerlestraat.
to discover. The narrow streets crossing However, if you are looking for a bargain,
the Canal Ring, such as Herenstraat and take time to explore the street markets
Hartenstraat, contain a diverse array of and numerous second-hand shops.
Department Stores
and Malls
Amsterdams best-known
department store is De Bijenkorf.
It has a huge perfumery and
stocks a wide range of clothing.
Among the less expensive stores,
Hema is popular for household
goods, childrens clothes and
underwear, while Blokker sells
more basic household and
electrical items. Both have
branches dotted around the
city. The only shopping malls
in central Amsterdam are the
The northern end of the Waterlooplein, home to the famous flea market Kalvertoren (Kalverstraat, near
Singel) and Magna Plaza (see
Opening Hours entitled to a refund. Shops that p94), containing upmarket
Shops are usually open from stock the relevant customs forms boutiques and shops.
9am to 6pm Tuesday to post a Tax free for tourists sign.
Saturday, from 1pm to 6pm
Mondays. Many are open
Sundays. In the city centre most Sales
shops now close at 7pm (9pm Sales occur mainly in January
on Thursdays) and are open and July, but smaller shops and
on Sundays. boutiques may offer discounts
at any time. Uitverkoop describes
anything from a closing-down
How to Pay sale to a clearance sale; korting Kitchen gadgets for sale at a shop
Cash is the most popular method merely indicates that discounts in Amsterdam
of payment. If you intend to use are offered. Towards the end of a
a credit card, ask first if it is sale, further discounts are often Markets
accepted. Cards are becoming calculated at the till. Beware Amsterdammers love of
more widely accepted, but of clothes rails marked, for street trading is best illustrated
department stores may require example, VA 40 or Vanaf 40, as on Koningsdag (see p36),
purchases to be paid for at a this sign means from 40, not when the city centre becomes
special till, and smaller shops exactly 40 euros. the worlds biggest flea
may accept them only for non-
sale items and goods costing
more than 45 euros. Some
tourist shops take foreign
currency but usually offer a
poor rate of exchange.
Vat Exemption
Most Dutch goods are subject
to value added tax (BTW) of
21 per cent for clothes and
other goods, and 6 per cent for
books. Non-EU residents may be Trendy clothing store in De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets) neighbourhood
SHOPPING IN AMSTERDAM 149
market as locals sell off their Boerenmarkt. The best prices, Books and Newspapers
unwanted junk. however, are to be found about English-language books are
Each district in Amsterdam 25 km (16 miles) northwest of easily available, particularly at
has its own market. The best- Amsterdam at the weekend The American Book Center,
known is the Albert Beverwijkse Bazaar, one Waterstones and The New
Cuypmarkt (see p145). There of Europes largest indoor English Bookshop. They can also
are also many specialist flea markets. Next be picked up cheaply at second-
markets. Visitors and door you will find hand shops, such as The Book
residents alike are Oriental merchandise. Exchange. Comics collectors
drawn to the array of should not miss Lambiek. Het
seasonal flowers at the Financieel Dagblad has a daily
Bloemenmarkt. Another Specialist Shops business update in English and
market popular with Specialist shops are a weekly English-language
tourists is Waterlooplein dotted throughout edition. For the latest news on
flea market (see p81), the city. The unusual events, parties and exhibitions,
where bargains can be Condomerie Het Gulden visit the citys official tourist
found among the bric- Vlies, located in a website www.iamsterdam.com.
-brac; new and Jenever of former squat, sells
second-hand clothes Amsterdam condoms from all over
are also for sale. the world. Christmas
Browsers will be fascinated Palace sells festive adornments
by the dozens of stalls at the year round, and Party House
Looier Kunst en has a vast collection of paper
Antiekcentrum (see p117), decorations. Capsicum
selling anything from antique Natuurstoffen has a huge
dolls to egg cups. On selection of silks and linens,
Wednesdays and Saturdays while Coppenhagen 1001
on Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal Kralen offers over 1,000 types
there is a stamp and coin of beads. It is also worth
market. Gourmets should head exploring Joes Vliegerwinkel
for the Noordermarkt (see for kites, Simon Levelt for tea
p115), for the Saturday organic and coffee and De Kaaskamer Organic foods displayed at the Saturday
food market, also known as the for cheese. food market, Noordermarkt
DIRECTORY
Department Stores Markets Christmas Palace Simon Levelt
and Malls Singel 508. Prinsengracht 180.
De Beverwijkse Bazaar Map 4 F1. Map 1 B4.
De Bijenkorf Montageweg 35, Tel 020-4210155. Tel 020-6240823.
Beverwijk.
Dam 1. Map 2 D5. Condomerie Het
Tel 0251-262666. Books and
Tel 0900-0919. Gulden Vlies
Boerenmarkt Newspapers
Warmoesstraat 141.
Blokker Noordermarkt. Open Map 2 D5. The American Book
Kalverstraat 41. Map 4 F1. summer: 9am4pm Sat; Tel 020-6274174. Center
Tel 020-6244456. winter: 9am3pm Sat. Spui 12. Map 4 F1.
Ceintuurbaan 109.
Coppenhagen 1001 Tel 020-6255537.
Looier Kunst en Kralen
Map 4 F4. Antiekcentrum The Book Exchange
Rozengracht 54.
Tel 020-6727746. Elandsgracht 109. Kloveniersburgwal 58.
Map 1 B4.
Map 4 D1. Map 2 D5.
Hema Tel 020-6243681.
v 7, 10, 17. Tel 020-6266266.
Kalvertoren, Kalverstraat. Open 11am5pm SatThu. Joes Vliegerwinkel The New English
Map 4 F1. Nieuwe Hoogstraat 19. Bookshop
Noordermarkt
Tel 020-4228988. Map 2 E5. Kalverstraat 223.
Noordermarkt.
Tel 020-6250139. Map 4 F1.
Nieuwendijk 174176. Map 1 C3.
Map 2 D4. v 3, 10, 13, 14, 17. De Kaaskamer Tel 020-6249789.
Tel 020-6234176. Runstraat 7. Lambiek
Specialist Shops Map 4 E1. Kerkstraat 132. Map 4 E1.
Magna Plaza Tel 020-6233483. Tel 020-6267543.
Capsicum
Nieuwezijds Waterstones
Natuurstoffen Party House
Voorburgwal 182. Oude Hoogstraat 1. Rozengracht 92. Kalverstraat 152.
Map 2 D4. Map 2 D5. Map 1 B4. Map 4 F1.
Tel 020-6269199. Tel 020-6231016. Tel 020-6247851. Tel 020-6383821.
150 AMSTERDAM
ENTERTAINMENT IN
AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam offers a diverse array of world- performances are given by a multitude of
class entertainment. A wide variety of street performers and live bands in late-night
performances are staged in hundreds of bars and cafs. The citys hottest annual events
venues throughout the city, ranging from include the Holland Festival and the Uitmarkt
the century-old Concertgebouw (see p124) (see p37). Club-goers are in their element in
to the sleek modern Muziekgebouw on the the canal city, which offers club nights to meet
IJ river. There is a huge choice of plays and most tastes in music and skilled DJs, such as
films throughout the year, and plenty of free Tisto, who are renowned around the globe.
to look out for include

Introdans, which combines
jazz with flamenco and other
ethnic dance, and Conny
Jansen Danst, which combines
theatrical elements with strong
physical power. De Meervaart
is a venue that stages modern
dance, concerts and theatre.
Jazz, Pop and

World Music
The Dutch are avid jazz fans,
The colonnaded faade of the Concertgebouw theatre and big names such as Wayne
Shorter, Branford Marsalis and
Information The citys musical centrepiece is Nicholas Payton show up
Amsterdams various tourist the Concertgebouw (see p124), regularly on local stages. The
offices are a good starting point renowned for its acoustics and foremost jazz club is the
for whats going on in the city. home to the celebrated Royal Bimhuis, housed in a purpose-
They can usually provide copies Concertgebouw Orchestra. built hall of the Muziekgebouw.
of free listings magazines, International orchestras and The Concertgebouw also hosts
including the AUB/Uitburo and soloists perform here regularly, regular jazz concerts. Keep an
the monthly Uitkrant, the and it hosts the Robeco Summer eye out for local talent such
definitive source of entertainment Concerts, a showcase of young as saxophonists Hans and
information. The latter is also talent. The Beurs van Berlage Candy Dulfer. Good jazz cafs
found in many bars and cafs. (see p95), originally the citys can be found along Zeedijk
The citys English website www. stock exchange, is now a and around Leidseplein,
iamsterdam.com has up-to- concert venue. namely Jazzcaf Alto and
date entertainment listings. The Netherlands Opera stages Bourbon Street.
The AUB/Uitburo has a last- performances in the 1,600-seat
minute window (open noon Muziektheater (see p81), whose
7:30pm daily) selling tickets classical and modern repertoire
for same-day shows. is without parallel. The iconic
Muziekgebouw is the place to
go for anything from chamber
Classical Music, music to the avant-garde.
Opera and Dance The Netherlands is home
Amsterdam is the countrys to two world-class ballet com-
touchstone for classical music panies. The Dutch National
and opera, and the principal Ballet, based in the Muziektheater,
venues host some of the worlds puts on classical ballet but also
finest events. The open-air daring works by contemporary
theatre in the Vondelpark (see Dutch choreographers, while
pp1245) stages free concerts, and the Nederlands Dans Theater
in summer, the Grachtenfestival (NDT) specializes in works by
features mainly classical music its Czech artistic director, Jiri Bourbon Street, one of Amsterdams
on floating canal stages. Kylian. Modern companies popular jazz cafs
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N A M S T E R D A M 151
performances in large halls

and aircraft hangars. The
musical dramas of Orkater
appear mainly at the
Stadsschouwburg and the
Bellevue Theater. Summer
outdoor theater can be
seen in the Vondelpark (see
pp1245) and the Amsterdamse
Bos (see p193), a sprawling
woodland park on the edge
of town.
Disco in the Heineken Music Hall
For most Amsterdammers, rock Hove. The annual highlight for

and pop are synonymous with opera, theatre and dance is the
two venues. Paradiso, which Holland Festival, held from late
has hosted the Rolling Stones, May to June. It overlaps with
Prince, David Bowie and other the International Theatre School
international music stars, is Festival, whose experimental
housed in a converted church drama pops up at De Brakke
just off Leidseplein, while Grond and Frascati.
Melkweg occupies a former The chief musical theatre is
dairy nearby. Both offer a the Koninklijk Theater Carr The Art Deco Tuschinski Theatre, a luxurious
varied and enter taining diet (see p139). It stages box-office cinema experience
of rock, pop, dance, rap and hits such as Les Misrables
world music. and Miss Saigon. De Kleine
Mega-concerts are booked Komedie, a magnificent Cinema
into the 50,000-seat Amsterdam 17th-century building on Film fanatics are well looked
ArenA, and headline acts the Amstel river, is a favourite after, with more than 40 cinemas
sometimes play at the more venue for cabaret groups. in town. Foreign language
intimate Heineken Music Hall. Stand-up comedy has gained films are shown in the original
As a multicultural society, the in popularity, led by the language with subtitles. The
Netherlands is a natural breeding hilarious English-language leading Dutch filmmaker is
ground for world music. Tradi- routines of Boom Chicago. Amsterdam-born Paul Verhoeven
tions from West Africa and the Experimental theatre can (of Basic Instinct fame). He
West Indies, Indonesia, Suriname be found at a range of venues returned to his homeland to
and Turkey come together in including Westergasfabriek, shoot Black Book, the highest-
this fascinating melting pot. a converted former gas works grossing Dutch film ever.
Akhnaton is a cultural centre in a lovely park setting. The Cinema programmes change
with a potent cocktail of company De Dogtroep stages every Thursday, so check the
Caribbean, African and Arabic offbeat street theatre, while website www.filmladder.nl. De
music. De Badcuyp, in the lively Theatergroup Hollandia has Filmkrant is a free monthly film
Pijp district, plays with salsa, won great acclaim with its magazine with complete listings.
tango, African music and other
dance options. In bars such as
Caf Nol and De Twee Zwaantjes
you can enjoy traditional Dutch
folk music smartlappen and
mingle with the locals.
Theatre and Cabaret

The heart of the countrys lively
theatre scene is in Amsterdam.
The premier venue is the
Stadsschouwburg (see p116),
home to the Amsterdam
Theatre Group and led by the
imaginative director Ivo van Musicians providing entertainment in the Vondelpark
152 AMSTERDAM
The most stunning cinema in

town is the Tuschinski, an
Art Deco masterpiece with
a luxurious foyer and stained-
glass windows (see p119). Some
cinemas such as the mainstream
Path de Munt, City Theater
and the arthouse Kriterion
show childrens films at week-
ends. The Uitkijk is a cosy,
158-seat venue dating from
1913 that shows mainly classics.
Clubs and Discos The bright lights of Amsterdam ArenA, a premier sporting venue
Amsterdams nightclubs are
famous for their variety and dance palace on the third floor. are available from the Pink Point
high energy. The scene Located in the former building kiosk next to the Westerkerk
throbs hardest in and around of Dutch newspaper De (www.pinkpoint.org).
Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein Volkskrant, Volkshotel is home
and Reguliersdwarsstraat. Most to a restaurant and one of the
clubs open at 11pm and are at citys leading nightclubs, which Spectator Sports
their busiest from around 1am; attracts creative hipsters and The Dutch are a sport-mad
closing time is 4am during students. The college crowd nation, and nothing makes their
the week and 5am on Friday also gravitates to the dancehall pulses race faster than football.
and Saturday. of Hotel Arena, located in a Three teams enjoy international
Jimmy Woo is famous for its former orphanage. standing: Ajax Amsterdam,
tough door policy. Inside, its Clubbing is also at the heart Feyenoord Rotterdam and PSV
Hong-Kong hip, with lots of of Amsterdams gay scene.
black leather and a great sound Crowds are often mixed and
system. Escape draws a young, most gay clubs will rarely turn
trendy crowd to its huge away women or straight men.
split-level complex on Reguliersdwarsstraat is home
Rembrandtplein, and another to a number of gay bars, such
large, popular venue is AIR. On as NYX, a slick bar with three
the opposite side of the square, levels and a balcony for viewing
Rain spins Latin and World beats. the dance scene below. Other
The leading non-house club popular gay bars, such as
in town is Sugar Factory, with Amstel 54 and Queers Caf, are
its diverse menu of soul, funk located on the nearby Amstel.
and jazz-dance. The other discos Prik is a hugely popular bar
around Leidseplein are basically that turns into a small club at
extended bars with small dance night. Young women like Vive
floors, catering to tourists. At La Vie, while Saarein II is a
Odeon near Spui Square, you friendly, relaxed bar tucked
can party your way up from away in a small street in the
the basement restaurant to the Jordaan. Details of other venues Two footballers clashing at an
Ajax game
Eindhoven (see p368). They

sometimes face off at the
spectacular Amsterdam ArenA.
For something different, try
watching a game of korfball,
invented by Amsterdam teacher
Nico Boekhuysen over 100 years
ago. It mixes elements of basket-
ball, netball and volleyball, and
is the only unisex sport played
professionally. Each team has four
men and four women. Top-level
matches are played on the indoor
courts of the Olympic Stadium,
Dancers at one of Amsterdams many clubs built for the Games held in 1928.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N A M S T E R D A M 153
DIRECTORY
Entertainment Bimhuis Frascati Hotel Arena
Information Muziekgebouw aan t IJ Nes 63. s-Gravesandestraat 51.
Piet Heinkade 3. Map 2 D5. Map 6 D4.
AUB Ticketshop Map 2 F3. Tel 020-6266866. Tel 020-8502400.
Leidseplein 26. Tel 020-7882188. frascati.nl hotelarena.nl
Map 4 E2. bimhuis.nl
Tel 020-7959950. De Kleine Komedie Jimmy Woo
amsterdam Bourbon Street Amstel 5658. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
suitburo.nl Leidsekruisstraat 68. Map 5 B3. 18. Map 4 E2.
Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6240534. Tel 020-6263150.
Classic Music, Tel 020-6233440. dekleinekomedie.nl jimmywoo.com
Opera and Dance bourbonstreet.nl
Koninklijk Theater NYX
Caf Nol Carr
Beurs van Berlage Reguliersdwarsstraat 42.
Westerstraat 109. Amstel 115125.
Damrak 243. Map 4 F1. clubnyx.nl
Map 1 B3. Map 5 B3.
Map 2 D4.
Tel 020-6245380. Tel 0900 252 5255. Odeon
Tel 020-5304141.
theatercarre.nl Singel 460. Map 4 F1.
beursvanberlage.nl Heineken Music Hall
Tel 020-5218555.
Arena Boulevard 590. Westergasfabriek
Concertgebouw odeon.amsterdam.nl
Tel 0900 687 4242 55. Haarlemmerweg 810.
Concertgebouwplein 26.
heineken-music- Map 1 A1. Prik
Map 4 D4.
hall.nl Tel 020-5860710. Spuistraat 109. Map 1 C5.
Tel 0900 6718345.
westergasfabriek. Tel 020-3200002.
concertgebouw.nl Jazzcaf Alto
com prikamsterdam.nl
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
De Meervaart 115.
Meer en Vaart 300. Cinema Queers Caf
Map 4 E2. Amstel 60. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-4107700. Tel 020-6263249.
meervaart.nl
City Theater Tel 06-51421222.
jazz-cafe-alto.nl Kleine Gartmanplantsoen
Muziekgebouw 1519. Rain
Melkweg
Aan t IJ Map 5 C3. Rembrandtplein 44.
Lijnbaansgracht 234a.
Piet Heinkade 1. Tel 0900 1458. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-
Map 4 E2.
Map 2 F3. 6267078.
Tel 020-5318181. Kriterion
Tel 020-7882000. rain-amsterdam.com
melkweg.nl Roetersstraat 170.
muziekgebouw.nl Saarein II
Paradiso Map 5 C3.
Het Muziektheater Weteringschans 68. Tel 020-6231708. Elandstraat 119.
Amstel 3. Map 4 E2. Map 1 B5.
Map 5 B2.
Path de Munt Tel 020-6234901.
Tel 020-6264521. Vijzelstraat 15.
Tel 020-6255455. paradiso.nl saarein.nl
Map 4 F1.
muziektheater.nl
De Twee Zwaantjes Tel 0900 1458. Sugar Factory
Vondelpark Prinsengracht 114. Lijnbaansgracht 238.
Tuschinski
Stadhouderskade. Map 1 C3. Map 4 E2.
Reguliersbreestraat
Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6752729. Tel 020-6270008.
2436. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-7882000. sugarfactory.nl
Tel 0900 1458.
vondelpark.nl Theatre and Vive La Vie
Cabaret Uitkijk
Jazz, Pop and Amstelstraat 7. Map 5 A2.
Prinsengracht 452.
World Music Bellevue Theater Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6240114.
Leidsekade 90. Tel 020-6237460. vivelavie.net
Akhnaton Map 4 D2.
Volkshotel
Nieuwezijds Kolk 25. Tel 020-5305301. Clubs and Discos Wibautstraat 150.
Map 2 D4. theaterbellevue.nl
Tel 020-624 3396. AIR Map 5 C1.
akhnaton.nl
Boom Chicago Amstelstraat 16. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-2612100.
Rozentheater volkshotel.nl
Tel 020-8200670.
Amsterdam ArenA Rozengracht 117.
air.nl
ArenA Boulevard 1, Tel 0900 BOOM CHICAGO. Spectator Sports
Zuidoost. Map 1 A5. Amstel 54
Tel 020-3111333. boomchicago.nl Amstel 54. Map 5 A2. Ajax Amsterdam
amsterdamarena.nl Tel 06-29557092. Football team
De Brakke Grond english.ajax.nl
De Badcuyp Vlaams Cultureel Escape
Sweelinckstraat 10. Centrum, Nes 45. Rembrandtplein 11. Olympic Stadium
Map 5 A5. Map 2 D5. Map 5 A2. Oud Zuid.
Tel 020-6759669. Tel 020-6266866. Tel 020-6221111. Tel 020-3054400.
badcuyp.nl brakkegrond.nl escape.nl olympischstadion.nl
154 AMSTERDAM
STREET FINDER
The page grid superimposed to be found on the books inside
on the Area by Area map back cover). An index of street
below shows which parts of names and places of interest
Amsterdam are covered in marked on the maps is on
this Street Finder. Map pages 1623. The key below
references given for all indicates the maps scale and
sights, hotels, restaurants, other features marked on them,
shopping and entertainment including transport terminals,
venues described in this emergency services and
guide refer to the maps in information centres. All major
this section (the road map is sights are clearly marked.
E
AD
UK
SSA
NA
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
HT
AC
GR
ZEN
RO
Canal Ring
Key to Street Finder
Major sight
PRINS E N G
Place of interest
Other building AT
RA
RST
Metro station KE
RA
KIN
C
H
Train station
Coach station T
Tram stop OM
TO
ER
OV
Bus stop
Tour boat boarding point
Canalbus boarding point
Museum boat boarding point Museum
Tourist information office Quarter
Hospital with casualty unit
Police station
Church
Synagogue
T
AA
Mosque STR
AN
S EM
RU
Railway line S K
ELI
RN
CO
Pedestrianized street
Scale of Map Pages 16

0 metres 250
1:11,250
Fresh fruit for sale in the
0 yards 250 Noordermarkt (see p115)
AMSTERDAM STREET FINDER 155
t
e
IJ
House with an elevated neck gable

T
CH
K
RA
(see p101) on the Geldersekade

RA
M
NG
A
D
RE
Nieuwe
HE
Zijde
DAM
Oude
R
ST
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Zijde
RG
BU
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VA
PL
AN
TA
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M
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NL
AA
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Am
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MA U R
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NA
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STR
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STA D HO U DE
D E R SKA
AU
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TST
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Magere Brug, the citys most

famous bridge (see p118)
MA
SP
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NO O RD N AT
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ZST R A
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AND
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BICKERSSTR
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Haarlemmervaart STRA AT GALG EN
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HAARLEMMERWEG
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s
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B i c k e r
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S T R A A T HOGENDORP
VAN T
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162 AMSTERDAM STREET FINDER
Street Finder Index

A Claes Claeszhofje 1 B3 Goudsbloemstraat 1 B3
K
Coehoornstraat, 1e 6 F2 Govert Flinckstraat 4 F4
Achter Oosteinde 5 B4
Commelinstraat 6 E3 Gravenstraat 2 D4 Kadijksplein 6 D1
Achtergracht 5 B3 Compagniestraat 6 E2 Gravesandestraat, s- 6 D4 Kalkmarkt 2 F5
Admiralengracht 3 A1 Concertgebouwplein 4 D4 Gravesandeplein, s- 6 D4 Kalverstraat 1 C5
Admiraliteitstraat 6 E2 Constantijn Grensstraat 5 C5 Karthuizersdwarsstraat 1 B3
Akoleienstraat 1 A4 Huygensstraat, 1e 3 C1 Groenburgwal 5 A2 Karthuizersplantsoen 1 B3
Alberdingk Thijmstraat 4 D2 Constantijn Groenmarktkade 1 A5 Karthuizersstraat 1 B3
Albert Cuypstraat 4 F4 Huygensstraat, 2e 3 C2 Grote Bickersstraat 1 C2 Kastanjeplein 6 E4
Alexander Boersstraat 4 D3 Cornelis Anthoniszstraat 4 E4 Grote Wittenburgerstraat 6 E1 Kastanjeweg 6 E4
Alexanderkade 6 E3 Cornelis Krusemanstraat 3 A5 Kattenburgergracht 6 D1
Alexanderplein 6 E3 Cornelis Schuytstraat 3 C4 Kattenburgerkade 6 D1
Amstel 5 A2 Costakade, Da 1 A5 H Kattenburgerkruisstraat 6 E1
Amsteldijk 5 B5 Costaplein, Da 1 A5 Kattenburgerstraat 6 D1
Costastraat, Da 1 A5 Haarlemmerdijk 1 B2
Amstelstraat 5 A2 Kattenburgervaart 6 E1
Cremerplein, JJ 3 A3 Haarlemmerhouttuinen 1 C2
Amstelveenseweg 3 A4 Kattengat 2 D3
Cruquiuskade 6 F2 Haarlemmerplein 1 B2
Amstelveld 5 A3 Kattenlaan 3 B3
Cruquiusstraat 6 F2 Haarlemmerstraat 1 C3
Andreas Bonnstraat 5 C4 Kazernestraat 6 E3
Czaar Peterstraat 6 F2 Hacquartstraat 3 C4 Keizersgracht 1 C3
Anjeliersdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B3 Handboogstraat 4 F1 Keizersstraat 2 E5
Anjeliersdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B3 Hartenstraat 1 C5
Anjeliersstraat 1 B3 D Hasebroekstraat 3 B1
Kerkstraat
Kleine Gartmanplantsoen
4 E1
4 E2
Anna Spenglerstraat 3 C2 Dam 2 D3 Hazenstraat 1 B5 Kleine Wittenburgerstraat 6 E1
Anna van den Damrak 2 D4 Heiligeweg 4 F1 Kloveniersburgwal 2 D5
Vondelstraat 3 C2 Damstraat 2 D5 Heintje Hoeksteeg 2 E4 Koestraat 2 E5
Anne Frankstraat 2 F5 Danil de Langestraat 4 E5 Heinzestraat 4 D4 Konijnenstraat 1 B5
Apollolaan 3 B5 Danil Stalpaertstraat 4 F4 Hekelveld 2 D3 Koninginneweg 3 A5
Arie Biemondstraat 3 B2 Dapperplein 6 F3 Helmersstraat, 1e 3 A3 Koningslaan 3 A4
Assendelftstraat 1 B1 Dapperstraat 6 F3 Helmersstraat, 2e 4 D2 Koningsplein 4 F1
Den Texstraat 5 A4 Helmersstraat, 3e 4 D2 Korte Keizersstraat 2 E5
Deymanstraat 5 C4
B Dijkstraat 2 E5
Hemonylaan
Hemonystraat
5 B4
5 B4
Korte Koningsstraat
Korte
2 E5
Bachstraat 4 D5 Dirk v. Hasseltssteeg 2 D4 Henri Polaklaan 5 C2 Leidsedwarsstraat 4 E2

Baerlestraat, Van 4 D3 Domselaerstraat 6 F4 Herengracht 1 C3 Korte Lepelstraat 5 C3
Bakkersstraat 5 A2 Driehoekstraat 1 B2 Korte Marnixkade 1 B2
Herenmarkt 2 D3
Balthasar Floriszstraat 4 E4 Driekoningenstraat 1 C4 Korte Niezel 2 E4
Herenstraat 1 C3
Banstraat 3 C4 Droogbak 2 D3 Kromboomssloot 2 E5
Hobbemakade 4 E5
Barentszstraat 1 C1 Dufaystraat 3 B4
Hobbemastraat 4 E3
Barndesteeg 2 E5 Hondecoeterstraat 4 D4 L
Beethovenstraat 4 D5 E Honthorststraat 4 E3
Begijnhof 1 C5 Laagte Kadijk 6 D1
Eeghenlaan, Van 4 D3 Hoogte Kadijk 6 D1
Beijersweg 6 F5 Lairessestraat, De 3 B5
Eeghenstraat, Van 3 C4 Hortusplantsoen 5 C2
Berenstraat 1 B5 Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 4 E2
Egelantiersgracht 1 B4 Houtmankade 1 B1
Bergstraat 1 C4 Lange Niezel 2 E4
Egelantiersstraat 1 B4 Houtmanstraat 1 B1
Beukenplein 6 D4 Langestraat 1 C4
Beukenweg 6 D4 Eggertstraat 2 D4 Huddekade 5 B4
Lassusstraat 3 B4
Beulingstraat 4 F1 Eikenplein 6 E4 Huddestraat 5 C4
Laurierdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B5
Beursplein 2 D4 Eikenweg 6 E4 Hugo de Grootkade 1 A4 Laurierdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B5
Beursstraat 2 D4 Eilandsgracht 1 C2 Hugo de Grootstraat, Lauriergracht 1 A5
Bickersgracht 1 C2 Elandsgracht 1 B5 1e 1 A4 Laurierstraat 1 A5
Bijltjespad 6 D1 Elandsstraat 1 A5 Hugo de Grootstraat, Leeghwaterstraat, 1e 6 F1
Bilderdijkstraat 3 C1 Emmalaan 3 B4 2e 1 A4 Leeghwaterstraat, 2e 6 F1
Binnen Dommersstraat 1 B2 Emmaplein 3 B4 Huidekoperstraat 5 A4 Leidsegracht 4 E1
Binnengasthuisstraat 5 A2 Emmastraat 3 C4 Huidenstraat 4 E1 Leidsekade 4 D1
Binnenkant 2 E4 Enge Lombardsteeg 2 D5 Leidsekruisstraat 4 E2
Binnen Oranjestraat 1 C2 Entrepotdok 6 D2
Blankenstraat 6 F2 I Leidseplein
Leidsestraat
4 E2
4 E1
Blauwburgwal
Bloedstraat
1 C4
2 E5
F IJplein 2 F2 Leliedwarsstraat, 1e
Leliedwarsstraat, 2e
1 B4
1 B4
Ite Boeremastraat 3 C2
Bloemdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B4 Falckstraat 5 A4 Leliedwarsstraat, 3e 1 A4
Bloemdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B4
Bloemgracht 1 A4
Ferdinand Bolstraat
Foeliestraat
4 F5
2 F5
J Leliegracht
Lepelkruisstraat
1 B4
5 C3
Bloemstraat 1 A4 Fokke Simonszstraat 5 A4 Jacob Obrechtplein 4 D4 Lepelstraat 5 B3
Blokmakerstraat 1 C2 Frans Halsstraat 4 F4 Jacob Obrechtstraat 3 C3 Lijnbaansgracht 1 A5
Boerenwetering 4 E5 Frans van Mierisstraat 4 D4 Jacob v. Campenstraat, 1e 4 F3 Lijnbaansstraat 1 A5
Boerhaaveplein 6 D4 Frederik Hendrikstraat 1 A4 Lindengracht 1 B3
Jacob v. Campenstraat, 2e 5 A4
Boerhaavestraat, 1e 5 C4 Frederiksplein 5 A4 Lindenstraat 1 B3
Jan Hanzenstraat 3 B1
Boerhaavestraat, 2e 5 C4 Frederiksstraat 3 A3 Lindendwarsstraat, 1e 1 B3
Jan Luijkenstraat 4 D3
Bonairestraat 3 A3 Funenkade 6 F2 Lindendwarsstraat, 2e 1 B3
Boomdwarsstraat, 1e 1 B3 Jan Pieter Heijestraat 3 B2
Jan Steenstraat, 1e 4 F4 Linnaeusplantsoen 6 F4
Boomdwarsstraat, 2e 1 B3
Boomstraat 1 B3 G Jan Steenstraat, 2e 5 B5
Linnaeusstraat
Lomanstraat
6 E3
3 A5
Borgerstraat 3 A2 Jan van der
Gabriel Metsustraat 4 E4 Looiersdwarsstraat, 3e 4 D1
Bosboom Toussaintstraat 4 D1 Heijdenstraat, 1e 4 F4
Galgenstraat 1 C1 Looiersgracht 4 D1
Boulevardpad 6 E2 Gedempte Begijnensloot 1 C5 Jan van der Louise Wentstraat 6 E3
Breestraat, Van 3 C4 Geldersekade 2 E4 Heijdenstraat, 2e 5 A5
3 C5 Jan van Goyenkade 3 B5
Breitnerstraat
Brouwersgracht 1 B2
Genestetstraat, De
Gerard Brandtstraat
4 D1
3 B2 Jan Willem M
Gerard Doustraat 4 F4 Brouwersstraat 4 D4 Maarten Jansz.
C Gerard Terborgstraat
Gerrit van der Veenstraat
4 E5
3 C5
Jodenbreestraat
Jodenhouttuinen
2 E5
2 E5
Kosterstraat
Madelievenstraat
5 B4
1 B4
Camperstraat 6 D4 Gietersstraat 1 B3 Johannes Verhulststraat 3 B4 Manegestraat 5 C3
Ceintuurbaan 4 F5 Gijsbrecht v. Aemstelstraat 5 C5 Johannes Vermeerstraat 4 E4 Marnixkade 1 A4
AMSTERDAM STREET FINDER 163
Marnixplantsoen, 1e 1 B2 Oudezijds Kolk 2 E4 Runstraat 4 E1 Verversstraat 5 A2

Marnixstraat 1 A4 Oudezijds Voorburgwal 2 D5 Rusland 2 D5 Vierwindenstraat 1 C1
Martelaarsgracht 2 D3 Overhaalsgang 6 D2 Ruysdaelkade 4 E5 Vijverstraat, Van der 6 F4
Martin Vlaarkade 1 B1 Overtoom 3 A3 Ruysdaelstraat 4 D4 Vijzelgracht 4 F3
Mary Zeldenruststraat 6 D4 Vijzelstraat 4 F2
Mauritskade
Mauritsstraat
5 C4
5 C4
P S Vinkenstraat 1 B2
Viottastraat, JJ 3 C4
Michelangelostraat 3 C5 Paardenstraat 5 A2 Saenredamstraat 4 F4
Visserplein, mr. 5 B2
Middenweg 6 F5 Palamedesstraat 4 D2 Sajetplein 6 D4
Voetboogstraat 4 F1
Miereveldstraat, Van 4 E4 Paleisstraat 1 C5 Sarphatikade 5 B4
Vondelkerkstraat 3 A3
Molenpad 4 E1 Palestrinastraat 4 D4 Sarphatipark 5 A5
Sarphatistraat 5 B4 Vondelstraat 3 C3
Moreelsestraat 4 E4 Palmdwarsstraat 1 B2
Mozes en Aronstraat 1 C4 Saxenburgerstraat 3 A3 Voormalige
Palmgracht 1 B2
Muiderstraat 5 B2 Palmstraat 1 B2 Saxen Weimarlaan 4 A4 Stadstimmertuin 5 B3
Museumplein 4 E3 Parelstraat 6 E1 Schapenburgerpad 4 D3 Vossiusstraat 4 D3
Musschenbroekstraat, Van 5 C4 Passeerdersgracht 4 D1 Schippersgracht 5 C1 Vrolikstraat 6 D5
Passeerdersstraat 4 D1 Schippersstraat 2 F4
N Paulus Potterstraat
P.C. Hooftstraat
4 D3
4 D3
Schoolstraat
Servaes Noutsstraat
3 A3
5 B5
W
Nassaukade 1 B2 Pieter Baststraat 4 E4 Simon Stevinstraat 6 F5 Waaigat 6 E1
Nassauplein 1 B1 Pieter de Hoochstraat 4 E4 Singel 1 C4 Waalseilandsgracht 2 E4
Nes 2 D5 Pieter Jacobszstraat 2 D5 Singelgracht 1 B2 Wagenaarstraat 6 E3
Nicolaas Beetsstraat 3 B2 Pieter Lastmankade 3 A5 Slijkstraat 2 D5 Waldeck Pyrmontlaan 3 A4
Nicolaas Berchemstraat 5 A4 Pieter Nieuwlandstraat 6 F3 Sloterdijkstraat 1 B1 Wanningstraat 4 D4
Nicolaas Maesstraat 4 D4 Pieter Pauwstraat 5 A4 Sluyspad, Dr DM 5 B2 Warmoesstraat 2 D4
Nicolaas Witsenkade 5 A4 Pieter Vlamingstraat 6 F3 Smitstraat 6 E5
Waterlooplein 5 B2
Nicolaas Witsenstraat 5 A4 Pijlsteeg 2 D5 Sophialaan 3 A5
Weesperstraat 5 B3
Nieuwe Achtergracht 5 C3 Planciusstraat 1 B1 Spaarndammerstraat 1 B1
Weesperzijde 5 C4
Nieuwe Amstelstraat 5 B2 Plantage Badlaan 6 D3 Sparrenweg 6 D4
Westeinde 5 A4
Nieuwe Batavierstraat 2 E5 Plantage Doklaan 6 D2 Speerstraat 3 B5
Speijkstraat, Van 3 A1 Westerdok 1 C1
Nieuwebrugsteeg 2 E4 Plantagekade 6 D2
Plantage Kerklaan 5 C2 Spiegelgracht 4 F2 Westerdoksdijk 2 D1
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 5 A2
Plantage Lepellaan 6 D3 Spinhuissteeg 2 D5 Westerdokskade 2 D2
Nieuwe Foeliestraat 5 C1
Plantage Middenlaan 6 D2 Spinozastraat 5 C4 Westerkade 1 A4
Nieuwe Herengracht 5 B2
Nieuwe Hoogstraat 2 E5 Plantage Muidergracht 5 C2 Spui 4 F1 Westermarkt 1 B4
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 5 B3 Plantage Parklaan 5 C2 Spuistraat 1 C5 Westerpark 1 B1
Nieuwe Kerkstraat 5 B3 Plantage Westermanlaan 6 D2 Staalstraat 5 A2 Westerstraat 1 B3
Nieuwe Leliestraat 1 A4 Platanenweg 6 D5 Stadhouderskade 4 D2 Westzaanstraat 1 B1
Nieuwe Looiersstraat 4 F3 Polderweg 6 F4 Stadionweg 4 E5 Weteringdwarsstraat, 1e 4 F2
Nieuwendijk 2 D4 Pontanusstraat 6 F3 St Annenstraat 2 D4 Weteringdwarsstraat, 2e 4 F2
Nieuwe Nieuwstraat 2 D4 Poolstraat 6 E1 St Antoniesbreestraat 2 E5 Weteringdwarsstraat, 3e 4 F2
Nieuwe Oostenburgerstraat 6 E1 Potgieterstraat 1 A5 Star Hofje, De 1 C3 Weteringlaan 4 F3
Nieuwe Passeerdersstraat 4 D1 Prinseneiland 1 C1 Stationsplein 2 E3 Weteringplantsoen, 1e 4 F3
Nieuwe Prinsengracht 5 B3 Prinseneilandsgracht 1 C1 St Barberenstraat 2 D5 Weteringplantsoen, 2e 4 F3
Nieuwe Ridderstraat 2 E4 Prinsengracht 1 C3 St Jacobsstraat 2 D4 Weteringschans 4 E2
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 4 F2 Prinsenstraat 1 C3 St Jansstraat 2 D4 Weteringstraat 4 F2
Nieuwe Teertuinen 1 B1 Prins Hendrikkade 2 D3 St Lucinsteeg 1 C5
WG-plein 3 C2
Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 2 E5 Prins Hendriklaan 3 A4 St Nicolaasstraat 2 D4
Wibautstraat 5 C4
Nieuwe Wagenstraat 1 B2 Prof. Tulpplein 5 B4 Stromarkt 2 D3
Wijde Lombardsteeg 2 D5
Nieuwe Westerdokstraat 2 D3 Prof. Tulpstraat 5 B4 St Willibrordusstraat 5 B5
Swammerdamstraat 5 C4 Wijdesteeg 1 C5
Nieuwe Weteringstraat 4 F3
Sweelinckstraat, 1e 5 A5 Wijttenbachstraat 6 F4
Nieuwezijds Armsteeg
Nieuwezijds Kolk
2 D3
2 D4
Q Sweelinckstraat, 2e 5 A5 Wilhelminastraat 3 A3
Nieuwezijds Quellijnstraat 4 F4 Swindenstraat, 1e van 6 F3 Willemsparkweg 3 C4
Voorburgwal 1 C5 Swindenstraat. 2e van 6 E3 Willemsstraat 1 B3
Nieuwmarkt 2 E5 Willem Witsenstraat 3 C5
R Windrooskade 6 E1
Noorderkerkstraat
Noordermarkt
1 C3
1 C3
T Windroosplein 6 E1
Raadhuisstraat 1 C4
Noorderstraat 4 F2 Raamgracht 2 E5 Taanstraat 1 C1 Witte de Withstraat 3 A1
Noordtgracht, Van 1 B1 Raamstraat 4 E1 Teniersstraat 4 E3 Wittenburgerdwarsstraat, 2e 6 E1
Noordtkade, Van 1 B1 Rapenburg 2 F5 Ter Gouwstraat 6 F4 Wittenburgergracht 6 D1
Rapenburgerplein 2 F5 Tesselschadestraat 4 D2 Wittenburgerkade 6 E1
O Rapenburgerstraat 5 C2 Thorbeckeplein
Tichelstraat
5 A2
1 B3
Wittenburgervaart 6 E1
Realengracht 1 C1 Wolvenstraat 1 C5
Oetewalerpad 6 F4 Rechtboomssloot 2 E5 Tilanusstraat 5 C4 Woustraat, Van 5 B5
Oetewalerstraat 6 F4 Reestraat 1 B5 Titiaanstraat 3 B5 Wouwermanstraat 4 D4
Olympiakade 3 A5 Reguliersbreestraat 5 A2 Tollensstraat 3 C1
Olympiaplein 3 B5 Touwbaan 6 E1
Olympiastraat 3 B5
Reguliersdwarsstraat
Reguliersgracht
4 F1
5 A3 Touwslagerstraat 1 C2 Z
Olympiaweg 3 B5 Tuinstraat 1 B4
Reijnier Vinkeleskade 4 D5 Zaandijkstraat 1 B1
Onbekendegracht 5 B3 Turfsteeg 5 B2
Reinwardtstraat 6 F4 Zacharias Jansestraat 6 F5
Oosteinde 5 B4 Tussen Kadijken 6 D1
Rembrandtplein 5 A2 Zandhoek 1 C1
Oostenburgergracht 6 E2
Rensselaerstraat, Van 3 A2 Zandpad 4 D2
Oostenburgerkade 6 F1
Oostenburgerpark 6 E2 Reyer Anslostraat 3 A3 U Zandstraat 2 E5
Oostenburgervaart 6 F1 Rhijnvis Feithstraat 3 A3 Zeeburgerdijk 6 F2
Rijtuigenhof 3 B3 Uilenburgergracht 2 F5
Oostenburgervoorstraat 6 E2 Zeeburgerpad 6 F2
Roelof Hartplein 4 E4 Utrechtsedwarsstraat 5 A3
Oosterdokskade 2 F4 Zeeburgerstraat 6 F2
Roelof Hartstraat 4 E5 Utrechtsestraat 5 A3
Oosterpark 6 E4 Zeedijk 2 E4
Oostersekade 2 F5 Roemer Visscherstraat 4 D2
Zeilmakerstraat 1 C2
Oosterspoorplein 6 F4 Rokin
Roomolenstraat
2 D5
2 D3
V Zesenstraat, Von 6 E3
Oranje Nassaulaan 3 A4
Rozendwarsstraat, 1e 1 B5 Valckenierstraat 5 C3 Zieseniskade 4 E2
Oude Doelenstraat 2 D5
Oude Hoogstraat 2 D5 Rozendwarsstraat, 2e 1 A5 Valeriusplein 3 B5 Zocherstraat 3 A3
Oude Looiersstraat 1 B5 Rozengracht 1 A5 Valeriusstraat 3 A5 Zons Hofje 1 C3
Oudeschans 2 E5 Rozenstraat 1 A5 Valkenburgerstraat 2 F5 Zoutkeetsgracht 1 C1
Oude Waal 2 E4 Rubensstraat 3 C5 Veldestraat, Van de 4 D3 Zoutkeetsplein 1 C1
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 2 D5 Ruijterkade, De 2 E3 Vendelstraat 5 A2 Zwanenburgwal 5 A2
Each place name is followed by its arrondissement number and then by its Street Finder reference
WESTERN
NETHERLANDS
Introducing the Western

Netherlands 166173
North Holland 174195
Utrecht 196211
South Holland 212245
Zeeland 246259
Western Netherlands at a Glance

The landscape of the Western Netherlands is strongly influenced
by the old ports and commercial towns, which claim a
prosperous past. During the 20th century, the most important
ones grew together to form the Randstad (see pp17071). But
you can still find plenty of quiet outside the cities in Europes
biggest coastal dune area, boasting its distinct flora and fauna;
along the Vecht, with its pretty country houses; and along rivers
such as the Vlist and the Linge. Main watersports areas are
Zeeland, on the IJsselmeer and the lakes in the peat region.
The Gothic Sint Bavo Church in Haarlem

(see p188), known colloquially as the Grote
Kerk, was built between 1400 and 1550.
This gigantic building dominates the Grote
Markt. Sint Bavo has one of the finest organs
in Europe, built by Christiaan Mller.
The Hague
Delft
The Mauritshuis at The Hague (see pp2267) was

built by Pieter Post in 1644 as instructed by
Johan Maurits van Nassau, in the style of North Brielle
Netherlands Neo-Classicism. Since 1821 it has
been the home of the royal painting collection.
This compact collection includes a number of Goedereede Hellevoetsluis
first-rate works by old masters, including
Rembrandt, Jan Steen and Johannes Vermeer.
Westenschouwen
Zierikzee
Middelburg Goes
Vlissingen
ZEELAND
(See pp24659)
Construction of the Oosterschelde

Terneuzen
Stormvloedkering (storm surge barrier) Hulst
(see pp25051) was prompted by the disastrous Sluis
floods of 1953. To combat the water while
preserving the unique mud-flat bed of the
Oosterschelde, a half-open multiple buttress
dam with 62 sliding gates was built.
Colourful rooftops of Utrecht city, as seen from the Dom tower
INTRODUCING THE WESTERN NETHERLANDS 167
Den Helder
Wieringerwerf
Callantsoog
Enkhuizen
The Zuiderzeemuseum in Enkhuizen (see pp18081)

Hoorn
is dedicated to the history of the fishing ports of
Alkmaar the Zuiderzee. Access to the North Sea was closed
NORTH off in 1932 by the Afsluitdijk (barrier dam). Enkhuizen
HOLLAND is enjoying renewed prosperity with the opening
(See pp17495) of the museum and the conversion of the fishing
port to a marina.
Zaanstad Purmerend
Haarlem
AMSTERDAM
(See pp64163)
Amstelveen
Aalsmeer
Hilversum
Leiden Amersfoort
Alphen aan
den Rijn UTRECHT Gouda (see p243) is one of the
Utrecht (See pp196211)
many commercial towns in
Woerden the Western Netherlands that
Veenendaal also has its prime position on
SOUTH Gouda
HOLLAND the waterways to thank for its
(See pp21245) period of prosperity. The spirit
Rhenen
of liberalism prevalent in Gouda
Rotterdam during the 16th and 17th
centuries protected the
Ridderkerk magnificent St Janskerk from
the Iconoclasm, meaning
that the Gouda stained glass is
Dordecht still here to be enjoyed today.
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
The Rietveld Schrderhuis in

Utrecht (see pp2089) is a famous
example of nieuwe bouwen
(new building). It was Rietvelds
first complete architectural work
and reveals his background as a
furniture maker. At the time it
was considered to be radically
modern. Visitors nowadays are
struck by the modesty and
human proportions of the house.
Reclaimed Land
The Netherlands is continually increasing in size. Various
methods of reclaiming land have been employed as far back
as the 11th century. One fairly simple method was to build
a dyke around a marshy area. Later, deep lakes were drained
with the help of windmills. The far-reaching IJsselmeer
polders fertile farmlands were created after the Zuiderzee
was closed off using ingenious reclamation methods. Even
To create a polder, a ditch
now, huge efforts are being made to extend areas of
was first dredged. The
reclaimed land hence the new Amsterdam residential dredgings were used to
area of IJburg, which has sprung up from the IJmeer. build up the dyke.
Gradual Drainage
To overcome the height difference Middle
between the polder and the ring windmill
Lower
canal, which is sometimes large,
windmill
the water is continually raised
metre by metre by three windmills
placed in a row, known as a
driegang or row of three.
Because a polder lies

some metres below sea Lower
level, the ground water reservoir
level is always very
high and has to be
continually drained.
Polder
canal
Land Reclamation
About 3,000 years ago, houses were built on mounds so
that they would not be flooded when the water rose. As far
back as the 4th to 8th centuries, dykes were built around
the houses and land. Land reclamation was carried out on
a large scale from the 11th century, when the population
increased sharply. In the 17th and 18th centuries, deeper
lakes were drained with the help of rows of windmills. The
steam engine meant a new phase of land reclamation: it Many dyke houses are facing a threat
was now finally possible to control the Haarlemmermeer. to their continued existence because
It is thought that, in Leeghwaters time, at least 160 of the raising of the river dykes.
windmills were necessary for this. In 1891, the engineer
C Lely put forward a plan to close off the treacherous
Zuiderzee. This only actually happened in 1932, when the
Afsluitdijk (barrier dam) was completed. Construction of
the IJsselmeer polders then got underway.
The Markermeer in the IJsselmeer has

become congested with mud and silt.
Vereniging Natuurmonumenten is
creating islands using mud from the lake,
thus cleaning up the water and develop
ing a viable habitat for flora and fauna.
The old port of Schokland (see p330) now lies firmly on the mainland It will be open for visitors from 2020.
This view is of the

oldest polder in
North Holland
(anonymous, c.1600).
The West Friesland
Omringdijk, which
runs around Het
Grootslag, is 126 km
(78 miles) long and
was completed as far
back as 1250. North
Holland ceased to
exist to the north
of the dyke.
Upper At low tide the

windmill ring canal can
drain the water
The ring pumped out of
dyke stems the polder.
the water
from the ring
canal.
Archimedes
screw
Seepage In the 16th century,
Middle channel Jan Adriaansz.
reservoir Leeghwater invented
a system that used
windmills to drain a
lake after a ring canal
had been constructed
around it. This meant
that it became relatively
easy to pump dry
deeper and larger lakes,
giving rise to the first
pieces of reclaimed land.
Conquering the Sea

God created the earth except Holland, for the Dutch did that. This statement by the French poet
Voltaire comes close to the truth. This is because since the 14th century, the surface area of the
Netherlands has increased by approximately 10 per cent, thanks to land reclamation. Land continues
to be extended today, with the construction, for example, of IJburg, a new area of Amsterdam, which
was built on an island in the IJmeer.
1900 Thanks to the steam engine,

1860 Land could be drained increasingly lower-lying polders, 2000 The new Amsterdam district of
only by using windmills. such as the Zuidplaspolder, at -6.74 IJburg is built in the IJmeer using the
Limited areas were reclaimed. m (-22 ft), could be drained. most modern methods available.
The Randstad
It appears that the term Randstad (literally, rim
city) was introduced by Albert Plesman, managing
director of Dutch airline KLM, which was
established in 1919. Apparently he pointed out
to the passengers on one of his airplanes the
horseshoe-shaped band of towns formed by
Utrecht, Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden, The
Hague, Rotterdam and Dordrecht. The relatively
undeveloped area in the middle was quickly By 2025 the population in the Randstad is
named the Groene Hart (green heart). set to grow by 700,000.
Groene Hart
The Groene Hart is a man-made landscape formed from an
association with water that has lasted for centuries. It is
characterized by elongated pieces of reclaimed land, peat lakes
and river landscape with marshes and pools. The most important
agrarian activity is dairy-cattle breeding; the cheese produced
here is world-famous. Environmental organizations are dedicated
to developing and protecting natural resources and historical
landscapes. In De Venen, which surrounds the Nieuwkoopse and
Vinkeveense lakes, a project is underway to combine extensive
arable farming, natural development of the environment, and
recreation facilities. It is hoped that this type of project will
provide a balance to urbanization.
Hiking and cycling

paths have been
erected throughout
the Groene Hart.
They pass dairy farms,
windmills and old
villages. Visit the local
VVV (tourist board) for
more information on
recreational paths.
Congestion is a major problem. During

rush hour periods, the Randstad is
clogged by traffic jams. The government
is trying to reduce congestion on the
roads by improving public transport and
introducing other measures, such as road
pricing. Up until now, this has not met
with much success. The number of cars
in the Randstad is constantly increasing.
Transferiums, or park-and-rides, are
meant to free up the town centres,
which often still have old infrastructure
and are not geared to a lot of traffic.
Car-pooling is another way

of reducing the number of
cars. Over 750,000 people
have car-pooled in the
last few years.
IJburg is a new
district, built on the Growth of the Randstad
IJmeer to the east
of Amsterdam. As far back as the end of the 15th
Another plan century, the Western Netherlands was
for municipal one of the most urbanized regions of
expansion into the Europe. It was only during the 20th
water is Nieuw century that the borders between the
Holland, a long, towns became blurred and what is
narrow piece of now known as the Randstad emerged.
land in front of the At present 6.5 million people live here.
coast between
Scheveningen and
Hoek van Holland.
Amsterdam
The Hague Groene

Hart Utrecht
Rotterdam
Randstad around 1900
Amsterdam
The Hague Groene

Hart Utrecht
Rotterdam
Amsterdam
The Hague Groene Utrecht

Hart
Rotterdam
In contrast, the Groene Hart has only

600,000 inhabitants. Earnings in the
Randstad account for half of the gross
national product. The main product is
provision of services, with Amsterdam
as the financial centre, The Hague as
Schiphol was, in the last decade, the fastest-growing airport the administrative centre, Hilversum
in Europe. It benefits from a central location close to as the focus of the audiovisual
many of Hollands major cities and good rail and road media and Rotterdam-Rijnmond and
connections. Expansion of the airport was halted by the Schiphol as an important port and
objections of residents and environmental groups, but after airport respectively.
considering other locations, such as an artificial island in the
North Sea, Schiphol will indeed expand into adjacent areas.
Dunes
The Dutch coast is famous for its dunes. These
natural sea walls, with a vegetation of their own,
were used in earlier times as common ground
for cattle grazing (the oerol, see p278) in the
absence of sufficient grassland. They now play
an important role in the purification of water.
The dunes are also a particularly popular
recreational area many of the protected dune
areas are open to ramblers and cyclists.
A catamaran on the beach
The sea supplies the On the beach, the dry, A sea inlet is formed when
sand from which the white sand drifts and the sea breaks through the
dunes are built. piles up. row of dunes.
Marram grass is a sturdy plant whose

root system holds new dunes together. It
plays an important role in the formation
and protection of Hollands dunes.
Nature Reserves
The dunes are being used less and less as areas for water
collection, meaning that the groundwater level is rising
again and the damp dunes can once again be
established. Protected against such environmentally
damaging influences as industry and land development,
they are becoming important nature reserves where
Water collection is done by way of the
dunes, which retain the fresh water that
there is a great deal for hikers and cyclists to enjoy.
falls inside them in the form of Vegetation includes gorse, spindle trees, creeping willow
precipitation. Drinking water has been and hawthorn. Resident and migratory birds, such as
collected since the 19th century from the curlews, tawny pipits and sometimes ospreys, inhabit
dunes of North and South Holland (such the dunes. During World War II, anti-tank trenches with
as at Meyendel, near Wassenaar, pictured steep banks were built in the Midden-Heeren dunes
above), helping to eliminate diseases like (in Nationaal Park Zuid-Kennemerland). Today, even
cholera from densely populated cities. the rare kingfisher feels at home there.
Rabbits may look

cute, but they have
been known to
seriously undermine
the dunes with their
intricate network
of burrows.
Origins
Dunes are created by a process which can be
seen time and time again during a stormy day
on the countrys long, flat beaches. The sand
carried by the sea dries on the surface of the
The Dutch coast seriously damaged by storms beach and is then dragged by the wind like a
white shroud over the beach. Held back by
The first row of dunes, golden The dune valleys
in colour because of the have their own
any obstacles in its way, the sand starts to
overgrowth, has higher summits. particular vegetation. accumulate. If the obstacle is a plant, a dune
begins to form. Plants involved in forming
dunes are called pioneer plants. They must be
able to tolerate being buried by the sand and
also be able to grow back through the sand.
Sand couch grass (Elymus farctus) is renowned
for being one such plant. After the initial dune
formation, marram grass often begins to
stabilize the new dune with its enormous
root system. Dunes along the coast of the
Netherlands can become as high as 10 m
(33 ft). The dunes here new dunes were
formed after 1200. When the sea breaks
through dunes which have collapsed or have
been cut through, it creates a sea inlet, or
channel, around which an entire vegetation
system develops, attracting all types of birds.
Sea holly and bee Common sea buckthorn
The sea inlet

The dune overgrowth
surface is home to
becomes richer as it moves
many types of bird.
inland, as limestone is
replaced by humus.
The Beachcomber gazes out

to sea near the North Holland
Camperduin, at the start of the
Hondsbossche sea wall. The wall
was constructed in the 19th century
when the sea broke through the
dunes. The lessons learned from this
were used when building North Bulb fields are evidence that the bulbs thrive in the
Hollands Noorder kwartier sandy dune soil. The blooms vivid colours are a pretty
(north district). contrast to the yellowishgrey colour of the dunes.
WESTERN NETHERLANDS 175
NORTH
HOLLAND
Although North Hollands landscape is mainly flat, it is by
no means featureless. Low-lying polders, with windmills
and grazing cows, give way to market gardens and
colourful bulb fields. Around Amsterdam the land is more
built-up, with lively towns and picturesque villages almost cheek by jowl.
North Holland has always been one canals; one connects Zaandam to Den
of the most important areas of the Helder in the north, while the other,
Netherlands economically, due to its the important North Sea Canal, gives
industry, fishing and commerce. The Amsterdams busy port access to the
Zuiderzee ports played a major part North Sea at IJmuiden. Land reclamation,
in the voyages of the Dutch East India at which the Dutch excel, has been
Company (see p52), and their merchants going on since the 14th century, and
became wealthy from the trade in exotic many historical island communities
imports. They built splendid houses and are now surrounded by dry land.
filled them with expensive furniture and Tourism is a major industry in North
fine art, much of which has found its way Holland, with Schiphol, the countrys
into the provinces leading museums. major airport, at its heart. The North Sea
This part of the country has learned coast has a string of delightful resorts and
to live with and profit from water. The sea-front hotels among the dunes, while
province is bordered by it on three sides, in the communities on the IJsselmeer
with the unpredictable North Sea to the such as Edam, famous for its cheese, and
west and the vast IJsselmeer (formerly picturesque Volendam, you can still find
the Zuiderzee) to the east. The flat land villagers wearing traditional costume
in between is bisected by two major and the famous Dutch wooden clogs.
Enkhuizen, a fine historical fishing town on the IJsselmeer

IJsselmeer Dam in the northern Netherlands
Exploring North Holland

The landscape of North Holland is varied and contains many old buildings
and fine museums. The province can be easily explored on day trips from
Amsterdam but areas such as West Friesland and Het Gooi, a woodland east
of Amsterdam, are worth a longer visit. You can also alternate sightseeing
with more relaxing activities such as walking in the beautiful nature reserve
de Kennemerduinen (Kennemer dunes) near Zandvoort, sailing on the Julianadorp
IJsselmeer or sunbathing on one of the many beaches. Round trips through
towns or on rivers are also good ways of exploring the province.
Callantsoog
ds
o llan
rdh
Noo
Schoorl
The working windmills on the Zaanse Schans ALKMAAR

EGMOND
Heiloo
Getting Around
During rush hour, roads around the large towns in the southern
part of the province are fairly congested. Parking is also difficult
to find in most of the larger towns and as bus and train
connections in the area are good, its often better to leave the car Uitgeest
behind. The northern part of North Holland is also easily reached
by public transport or by car on the A7 and A9 motorways. The HEEMSKERK
natural landscape of North Holland lends itself to countless
footpaths and cycle routes, each with different characteristics.
Bicycles can be hired from most of the regions train stations. VELSEN/
IJMUIDEN No
or
Santpoort d zee
Sights at a Glance Bloemendaal

1 Marken o Velsen/IJmuiden
2 Monnickendam p Zandvoort HAARLEM Zwanenburg
3 Volendam a Cruquius ZANDVOORT
4 Edam s Ouderkerk aan de Amstel
5 Jisp d Aalsmeer CRUQUIUS
6 Zaanse Schans f Amstelveen
7 De Beemster g Muiden Hoofddorp
8 Zuiderzee Museum h Naarden
pp18081 j s-Graveland
9 Enkhuizen k Hilversum
0 Hoorn l Naardermeer
q Broek-in-Waterland z Laren
w Medemblik
Tour
e Den Helder
t Alkmaar r West Friesland
y Haarlem
u Egmond
i Heemskerk

NORTH HOLLAND 177
DEN HELDER
Den Oever
aal
Breezand
Kan
Wieringerwerf
Middenmeer
IJsselmeer De Koepoort in Enkhuizen, built in 1649
Schagen
MEDEMBLIK
Andijk
Wervershoof
Abbekerk
D
N ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM
A
E SL ENKHUIZEN
Noord- RI
Scharwoude T F
WES
Hoogkarspel
Wognum
Heerhugowaard
HOORN
Oudorp
Avenhorn Schellinkhout
NOORD-
HOLLAND Oosthuizen
DE BEEMSTER
Markermeer
Middenbeemster
Purmerend
EDAM
JISP
VOLENDAM
ZAANSE SCHANS
MARKEN
MONNICKENDAM Traditional farm in the De Beemster region
Koog aan
den Zaan
Zaanstad BROEK-IN-
K a naal WATERLAND
0 kilometres 10
AMSTERDAM 0 miles 10
Badhoevedorp
Diemen MUIDEN
AMSTELVEEN Key
Huizen
NAARDERMEER NAARDEN Motorway
OUDERKERK Main road
AAN DE AMSTEL Bussum Blaricum
Minor road
AALSMEER LAREN
Scenic route
s-GRAVELAND
HILVERSUM Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
1 Marken
Road map C3. * 2,000. @ g from
Volendam. vvv-waterland.nl
For almost eight centuries,

Marken was a fishing community
that saw little change. The con-
struction of a causeway link to the
mainland in 1957 put an end to
its isolation. The island, however,
has kept its original atmosphere,
retaining its wooden houses
built on mounds and piles to
guard against flooding. Het
Paard Lighthouse is a famous
landmark. Marker Museum, Traditional dress, today worn as costume at Volendams fishery
located in six historic houses,
gives a flavour of past and clock tower, with its 15th-century this towns biggest attractions:
present life in Marken. There carillon: every hour, clockwork the women wear tight bodices,
is also a cheese factory and horsemen parade outside. lace caps and brightly striped
clog-making workshop. skirts; the men, loose trousers
E Waterlandsmuseum and jackets. You too can dress
E Marker Museum de Speeltoren up and have your photo taken.
Kerkbuurt 4447. Tel 0299-601904. Noordeinde 4. Tel 0299-652203. On the other side of the dyke
Open AprOct: 10am5pm daily. & Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueSat; is a different Volendam: an
7 markermuseum.nl NovMar: 11am5pm Sat & Sun. & ancient, atmospheric maze of
despeeltoren.nl
narrow streets, wooden houses
and little canals.
2 Monnickendam
Road map C3. * 10,000. @
3 Volendam
n Zuideinde 2 (0299-820046). Road map C3. * 21,000. @
4 Edam
( Sat. vvv-waterland.nl n Zeestraat 37 (0299-363747). Road map C3. * 7,200. @
( Sat. vvv-volendam.nl n Damplein 1 (0299-315125).
This old town on the Gouwzee, ( Wed; cheese market: JulAug:
founded by monks, has buildings This old fishing village on the 10:30am12:30pm Wed.
dating back to the 17th and 18th IJsselmeer is world-famous, vvv-edam.nl
centuries, including the stadhuis, attracting a huge number of
or town hall, and the Waag, or tourists. The village is built along Edam is known worldwide for
weigh house. The Museum de a dyke; at its small harbour, you the rounds of cheeses covered
Speeltoren explains the towns can still buy all sorts of fish. with red wax it exports. (Yellow
history. It is located in the Stadhuis Traditional costume is one of wax is used if for local consump-
tion.) Visit the cheese market on
Wednesday mornings in July
and August to see how they
are sold. Founded in the 12th
century, the town has many
historical buildings, including
the brightly painted Waag
(weigh house). The17th-century
stained-glass windows in the
Grote Kerk are considered
some of the finest in Holland.
The Edams Museum is
located in a 16th-century
merchants house. Here you
can see 17th-century portraits
of famous Edammers, such
as Trijntje Kever, who was
supposedly 2.8 m (9 ft) tall.
E Edams Museum
Damplein 8. Tel 0299-372644.
Open AprOct: TueSun. Closed 27
Distinctive 17th-century wooden houses at Marken Apr. & edamsmuseum.nl
NORTH HOLLAND 179
for sale. All the houses are built

from timber, as stone houses
would sink at once into the soft
peat earth. Also, at the time they
were built, wood was readily
available from local sawmills.
A visit to Zaanse Schans will
also reveal Albert Heijns first
shop from 1887, a baking
museum and cheese factory. The
Zaans Museum showcases the
history of the region. Pleasure
boats offer trips on the Zaan.
E Zaans Museum
Schansend 7, Zaandam. Tel 075-
6810000. Open 10am5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
zaansmuseum.nl
Environs
At the Molenmuseum (windmill
museum) at Koog on the Zaan,
Typical Dutch windmill on the Zaanse Schans you will learn everything you
need to know about the wind-
5 Jisp tourist office, VVV, has mills of the Zaan region. It is
Road map B3. * 760. @ n 0299-
information about the various located in an 18th-century
472718. laagholland.com excursions offered. wooden house.
Haaldersbroek, opposite the
The old whaling village of Zaanse Schans, was once a boat-
Jisp, on one of the many 6 Zaanse Schans ing village with narrow locks, brick
former Zuiderzee islands, Road map C3. Schansend 7,
paths and typical Zaan houses
has a 17th-century feel. Zaandam. * 50. @ Tel 075- and farmhouses. Here, youll feel as
The stadhuis (town hall) and 6810000. Open 9am5pm daily, some though youve gone back in time.
dorpskerk (village church) buildings closed weekdays in winter.
are worth a visit. The village zaanseschans.nl E Molenmuseum
lies in the middle of the Museumlaan 18, Koog a/d Zaan.
Jisperveld, a nature reserve The Zaanse Schans is the tourist Tel 075-6288968. Open TueSun.
which is home to many heart of the Zaan region. This Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, Whitsun.
different birds, such as open-air museum, created in & zaanschemolen.nl
lapwings, black-tailed godwits, 1960, has typical Zaan houses,
redshanks, ruffs and spoonbills. windmills and buildings. When
This is a lovely spot to cycle, its windy, you will be able to see 7 De Beemster
row, fish or, in the summer, the windmills working. The Road map B3. @ n VVV
visit on an excursion. The products (oil, paint, mustard) are Middenbeemster (0299-621826).
beemsterinfo.nl
Czaar-Peterhuisje (Tsar Peters House) The Beemster was once a lake
In 1697, the Russian Peter the Great visited the shipyards of Zaandam that was drained in 1612 by
in order to learn how the local people built ships. He lodged with Jan Adriaansz Leeghwater (see
Gerrit Kist, a tradesman whom he p167). This unusual region has
had employed in St Petersburg. hardly changed since the 17th
The tsar paid another visit to the century, and in 1999 it was
town in 1717. The first mention of named a World Heritage Site by
Tsar Peters house in an official UNESCO. You can see historic
document was in 1780. This led to
objects and period rooms in the
the tiny wooden house being
Museum Betje Wolff.
supplied with a stone casing and
foundations for protection. Every
year, this humble house attracts E Museum Betje Wolff
a great number of tourists. (Krimp Middenweg 178, Middenbeemster.
23, Zaandam, tel. 075-6810000. Tel 0299-681968. Open MaySep:
Peter the Great, who stayed in Open 10am5pm TueSun; 11am5pm TueFri, 2pm onwards
Zaandam twice closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.) SatSun; OctApr: 25pm Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
8 Zuiderzeemuseum
Enkhuizen was one of the towns whose economy was
based on fishing and which was devastated when its access
to the North Sea was blocked in 1932 by the construction
of a barrier dam, the Afsluitdijk (see p168). Enkhuizen is
today enjoying renewed prosperity with the opening of
the Zuiderzeemuseum complex and the restructuring of
the fishing port into a marina. The museum consists of an
open-air section in the form of a museum-park, and an . Houses from Urk
indoor area with a large number of exhibition spaces for Houses from the former island of
permanent displays and temporary presentations. Urk (see p330) have been rebuilt
here. Actors portray life at the
beginning of the 20th century.
Entrance pavilion
to Buitenmuseum
Sailmakers Workshop
At the beginning of the
20th century, most ships
and fishing boats had
. Schepenhal sails. The traditional craft
The Schepenhal (marine of sailmaking is kept
hall) at the Binnenmuseum alive in this workshop.
(indoor museum) features
an exhibition of 14 historic
ships in full regalia. Children Entrance to
can listen to an exciting Buitenmuseum
audio play while sitting
in a boat.
Lime Kilns
Shells dredged from the sea bed were
burned in bottle-shaped lime kilns.
The resulting quicklime was then
used as an ingredient in mortar for
brickwork. These ovens come from
Akersloot in North Holland.
ENKHUIZEN 181
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Wierdijk 1222, Enkhuizen.
Tel 0228351111.
zuiderzeemuseum.nl
Indoor and open-air museums
Open AprOct: 10am5pm daily;
indoor museum also open Nov
Mar: 10am5pm daily.
Closed 25 Dec. Enkhuizen.
4 from the station. & 7 -
0=
. Contemporary Delft Blue Hugo Kaagmans paintings
juxtapose traditional Delft motifs with present-day designs in
refreshing combinations: windmills, tulips and fisherfolk sit
beside portraits of popular singers.
The Church
The builders of this late-19th-
century church, from the island
of Wieringen, hid the organ in
a cupboard to avoid the
tax levied on church
organs at that time.
KEY
1 Ferries take visitors from the

station and entrance pavilion to the
Buitenmuseum (open-air museum).
2 Monnickendam smoke-houses
3 Reconstruction of Marken
harbour
4 Costume Chest allows visitors to
dress up in traditional outfits.
5 Shipbuilding and repairs
0 metres 50
6 A working windmill shows how
0 yards 50
polder drainage works (see pp1689).
7 The houses in this area come
from Zoutkamp, a fishing village on
what was once the Lauwerszee.
8 Houses from the Zuiderzee
island of Urk
just like the St Jans Gashuis. of the gardens. To explore the

Hoorns historic past is set out village and surroundings from
in the Westfries Museum. A a different perspective, canoes
glimpse of the more recent and electric motorboats can
past and a nostalgic trip be rented from Kano &
down memory lane can be Electroboot Waterland (Drs. J.
experienced at the Museum van Disweg 4, 020-4033209,
van de Twintigste Eeuw www.fluisterbootvaren.nl).
(Museum of the 20th Century).
Boats moored at Hoorn harbour
E Westfries Museum w Medemblik
9 Enkhuizen Rode Steen 1. Tel 0229-280022.
Road Map C2. * 8,000. @
Open 11am5pm TueFri (AprOct:
Road Map C2. * 18,100. @ n 072-5114284. ( Mon.
also Mon), 15pm Sat & Sun.
n Tussen Twee Havens 1 (0228- medemblik.nl
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3rd Mon in
313164). ( Wed. Aug, 25 Dec. wfm.nl
enkhuizen.nl Many pretty 17th-century
E Museum van de Twintigste houses can still be found in
Enkhuizen is still a major port. Its Eeuw Medemblik. Also worth a look
many fine buildings are evidence Krententuin 24. Tel 0229-214001. is Kasteel Radboud, built in 1288,
of the wealth of the Golden Age. Open 10am5pm MonFri, from noon and its museum. On the towns
The most famous building is the SatSun & holidays. Closed 1 Jan, 27 outskirts, an old pumping station
Drommedaris, dating back to Apr, 25 Dec. museumhoorn.nl is home to Het Nederlands
1540, used to keep watch over Stoommachinemuseum, a
the old port. The city walls also hands-on collection of steam-
q Broek in
date back to the 16th century. driven industrial machinery.
Enkhuizen has two splendid Waterland
churches, the Westerkerk and Road Map C3. * 2,350. @ n 0229-
E Het Nederlands
the Zuiderkerk. Summer boat 820046. waterland.nl Stoommachinemuseum
trips to Medemblik, Stavoren and Oosterdijk 4. Tel 0227-544732.
Urk are especially pleasant. Broek in Waterlands status in Open end Febearly Nov: TueSun.
the 17th century as a retreat stoommachinemuseum.nl
for sea captains of the East India
0 Hoorn Company can still be seen
Road Map C3. * 68,000. @
everywhere in the villages
n Schuitjeskade 1 (0229-855761). ( crooked streets. The ornate
Sat; JunAug: Wed. hoorn.nl clapboard villas are colour-coded:
the captains lived in the pastel-
Hoorns rich past, as the capital tinted houses and non-seafarers
of the ancient province of West in the ones painted grey. Along
Friesland and one of the great the Havenrak, the road winding
seafaring towns of the Golden along the lake, fine examples of
Age (see pp545), has produced kralentuinen, mosaics made from
many beautiful buildings. The blue glass beads brought back The 13th-century Kasteel Radboud
Late Gothic Oosterkerk has a by merchants from the East in Medemblik
marvellous Renaissance faade, Indies, can be seen in several
e Den Helder
Road Map B2. * 57,000. @
n Willemsoord 52A (0223-
616100). ( Jul & Aug: Tue.
topvanholland.nl
This town, the base for the Dutch

Royal Navy, has a Marinemuseum
that displays marine history from
1488. At the North Sea Aqua-
rium at Fort Kijkduin, a glass
tunnel weaves among the fish.
E Marinemuseum
Hoofdgracht 3. Tel 0223-657534.
Open MayOct: daily; NovApr: Tue
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 2526 Dec.
Riverside setting of Broek in Waterland & = marinemuseum.nl
NORTH HOLLAND 183
Windmills
Since the 13th century, windmills have been an inseparable
part of the landscape of Holland. They have been used for a
variety of purposes, including milling corn, extracting oil and
sawing wood. One of their most important uses was to pump
away excess water from the polders (see pp1689). Windmills
consist of a fixed tower and a cap which carries the sails. The
cap can be turned so that the sails face the wind. The sails can
be very dangerous when they are turning hence the Dutch
saying, Een klap van de molenwiek hebben (To be struck by a
windmill), that is, to have a screw loose. The Netherlands had Watermill in the Schermer polder
thousands of windmills in earlier times, but since the arrival
of modern machines, their number has dropped to just over Lattice and
1,000. Many of these windmills are still working and are open canvas sail
for visits. (See also pp289.)
Polder mills for draining
became common during
the 17th century.
Standing in groups, they
were each responsible for
part of the pumping,
through the use of an
Archimedes screw.
Modern wind turbines are common in

Holland. They supply electricity without Drive shaft
the pollution caused by burning oil or coal.
Archimedes
screw
Upper reservoir
Rolled-up canvas
The upper section

could be turned on
its axis in the wind.
Main
spindle
Wooden
Grain was sails
ground by two
millstones.
The cogs are turned by The sails were

covered with Flour was
the sails. A rotating
canvas to catch poured into
spindle makes a cog more wind. bags through
move, causing the water chutes.
pump to start working.
Flour Mills
Flour mills were covered
with reeds and looked like
enormous pepper mills. The
millstones were linked to the
sails by the spindle and gear-
wheels and milled wheat,
barley and oats.
r West Friesland Tips for Drivers

During Hollands Golden Age, West Friesland Length: 80 km (50 miles)
played a major part in the Dutch economy as an Places to stop: Cafs and
restaurants in any of the villages
important centre for trade and shipping. Nowadays and towns along the way.
the main inland activity is farming. Watersports Roads: The roads in West
bring in the most money on the IJsselmeer coast. Friesland are good. Along the
If you take the route in spring, you will travel IJsselmeer you will travel over a
narrow, winding dyke where you
alongside blooming bulb fields and orchards. There will certainly encounter many
is a pleasant bustle along the IJsselmeer in the cyclists and walkers.
summer, and part of the route is great for cycling.
5 Twisk 4 t Regthuys, Abbekerk

This widespread This museum has collections of West
village has pretty Friesland clothing, curiosities and
farmhouses, most important for the children toys.
many of which
can often be 3 Stoommachinemuseum
reached only by (Steam Engine Museum)
little bridges. The old steam pumping station
Vier Noorder Koggen near
Medemblik has a unique collection
of steam-operated machinery.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Medemblik
Andijk
Twisk
Wervershoof
Abbekerk
Oostwoud
Midwoud
spoorlijn
Toeristische
Enkhuizen
Hoogkarspel
Nibbixwoud
Blokker
Hoorn Oosterleek
Schellinkhout
Key 2 West Friesland Omringdijk

1 Schellinkhout In the 13th century, a ring dyke
Suggested route
This attractive village to protect against flooding was
just a stones throw Other road built around West Friesland.
from Hoorn has been Railway line Through land reclamation, a large
inhabited since pre- Tourist railway proportion of the dyke now lies
historic times. It once inland. Two wiels, or pools, by the
Good viewing point
had an old sandy cove IJsselmeer are reminders of when
of the Zuiderzee. Windmill water broke through the dyke.
NORTH HOLLAND 185
breweries now use. There is

also a reconstruction of an old
caf interior. Under the same
roof is a lovely waterside caf
and tasting house where 86
different beers, many of them
Dutch, can be sampled.
South of the kaasmarkt, on
the corner where Mient meets
Verdronkenoord, is the vismarkt
or fish market, which dates
back to the 1500s and was
still in use until 1998. The low,
colonnaded stalls are covered
to protect traders and their
wares from the elements,
and contain brick and stone
benches where catches of fish
Porters carrying cheese on sledges at Alkmaars traditional cheese market were displayed to customers.
The current buildings date
t Alkmaar of the cheese market is the back to the mid-18th century.
Nationaal Biermuseum De Further along Verdronkenoord
Road map B3. * 94,000. @ Boom. Housed in an impressive is the Sint Laurenskerk or
n Waagplein 2 (072-5114284).
17th-century building, formerly Grote Kerk. This 15th-century
( Weekly market Sat; cheese
the biggest brewery in the town, church has one of the most
market Fri morning, AprSep.
vvvhartvannoordholland.nl
the museum explores a important organs in Europe,
millennium of beer drinking in built in 163946, and is
This old town has at least 400 the Netherlands. The museum noteworthy for its painting
monuments, and the street illustrates, for example, how in on the ceiling depicting
layout has barely changed over the Middle Ages Alkmaar the Last Judgment
the centuries. Along the canals, lacked a supply of safe by Jacob Cornelisz.
old merchants houses and small drinking water, so van Oostzanen.
courtyards can still be seen. The brewers would The scene was
Stedelijk Museum depicts the ship barrels of painted on nine
history of the town through clean water from wooden panels
paintings, videos and models. It the surrounding in 15181519.
also has a collection of paintings dunes and The Renaissance faade of the In 1885, due to
from the Bergen School of the streams, and then weigh house water damage,
1920s and 1930s. make it into beer. The the panels were
Alkmaar is famous for its collection of equipment shows taken to the Rijksmuseum,
traditional kaasmarkt (cheese the beer-making process over only to return during the
market), which is held every the last 100 years, from copper German occupation.
Friday morning from early April to vats, kettles, barrels and bottles
early September. The large yellow to examples of the modern E Stedelijk Museum
wheels of cheese arrive by barge. laboratory technology that Canadaplein 1. Tel 072-5489789.
They are tossed from the barges Open 10am5pm TueSun
by four groups of seven porters (to 7pm on Fri). Closed 1 Jan,
from the 400-year-old cheese 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7
stedelijkmuseumalkmaar.nl
porters guild. The porters are
dressed in white and divided into E Waaggebouw and
guild groups by the colour of Kaasmuseum
their hats. The cheese is loaded Waagplein 2. Tel 072-5114284.
onto sledges, which the porters Open Mar & Oct: MonSat, Apr
run with to the waaggebouw Sep: daily; NovFeb: Sat. & 7
(public weigh house), where the E Nationaal Biermuseum
cheese is weighed. Once tasting De Boom
has taken place, the cheese is Houttil 1. Tel 072-5113801.
auctioned off by a system called Open MonSat. Closed public hols.
handjeklap, with sellers clapping 7 biermuseum.nl
each other on the hands. The R Grote Kerk
Kaasmuseum (cheese museum) Koorstraat 2. Tel 072-5140707.
at the waaggebouw shows both Open AprMay: 10am4pm ThuSat;
modern and traditional methods The Biermuseum, where a variety of beers JunSep: 10am4pm TueSun; during
of dairy farming. A little north can be sampled exhibitions. grotekerk-alkmaar.nl
y Street-by-Street: Haarlem
Haarlem is the commercial capital of North Statue of Laurens Coster
Holland province and the eighth largest city According to local legend,
Haarlem-born Laurens
in the Netherlands. It is the centre of the Jansz Coster (13701440)
Dutch printing, pharmaceutical and bulb- invented printing in
growing industries, but there is little sign of 1423, 16 years before
this in the delightful pedestrianized streets of Gutenberg. The
19th-century statue in
the historic heart of the city. Most of the the Grote Markt
sights of interest are within easy walking celebrates the claim.
distance of the Grote Markt, a lively square
packed with ancient buildings, cafs and
restaurants. Old bookshops, antique dealers
and traditional food shops are all to be
discovered in nearby streets.
AT
SSTR A
SM
Z
L JORI
IJ
ED
L
The Hoofdwacht S
T
R
EST
is a 17th-century A
A
T
BAR TE
former guard
RA
house.
AT
T
A
A
R
T GROTE
R.
S MARK T
TST
G
IN
L E P E L S T R A AT
N
HOU
O
K
Stadhuis
GR.
Lieven de Keys
allegorical figure of
Justice (1622) stands
above the main
entrance. She
. Vleeshal (1603)
carries a sword and
The old meat market is part
the scales of justice.
of the Frans Hals Museum
(see pp19091).
Grote Markt
The tree-lined market square is bordered
with busy pavement restaurants and cafs.
It has been the meeting point for the
townspeople for centuries.
HAARLEM 187
. Grote Kerk VISITORS CHECKLIST

The huge church (see p188)
is dominated by a decorative Practical Information
organ (1735) with soaring pipes, Road Map B3. * 151,000.
which drew many famous haarlem.nl
composers to Haarlem. n Verwulft 11 (0900-6161600).
( Mon & Sat. _ Haarlem Jazz
Festival: end Aug; Bloemen
Corso: end Apr.
Transport
Stationsplein.
AT
RA
ST
NS
JA
T
AA
. Teylers Museum
TR
Physical and
ES
W astronomical
JN
IJ
D instruments, like this
BAKE
EA
GI
PP brass electrostatic
BE
EL generator by Pieter
AA
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van Marum (1784),

NESS
NG
RS
TE form part of the
LA
EG
collection in this
ERGR
museum of science,
N S
technology and art

EI UI
(see p189).
EE
P LK H
ACHT
ST
LO
R
A
A
K
EL
P
P
EA
W
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Shops and houses cling to

A
N
the walls of the Grote Kerk.
E
ARN
E SPA
KER
DON
E
A R N
S P A
E R
R I V
0 metres 50
Gravestenenbrug
Key 0 yards 50
This lift bridge crosses the river Spaarne.
Located on the south bank is the Recommended route
embarkation point for boat trips along
the river and canals.
Exploring Haarlem P Stadhuis

Grote Markt 2. Tel 0235115115.
Haarlem became a city in 1245, and had grown into a thriving Open by appt only. 7
clothmaking centre by the 15th century. But the city was sacked Haarlems Stadhuis (town hall)
in the Spanish siege of 15723, and a series of fires wreaked has grown rather haphazardly
since 1250 and is an odd mixture
further destruction in 1576. The towns fortunes changed in the
of architectural styles. The oldest
17th century, when industrial expansion ushered in a period of part of the building is the beamed
prosperity lasting throughout the Golden Age. The centre was medieval banqueting hall of the
largely rebuilt by Lieven de Key (15601627) and still retains counts of Holland, originally
much of its character. The Grote Kerk continues to overlook the known as the Gravenzaal. Much
citys hofjes (almshouses), and the brick-paved lanes around the of this was destroyed in two great
fires in 1347 and 1351, but the
Grote Markt are little changed. 15thcentury panel portraits
of the counts of Holland can still
be seen.
The wing of the town hall
bordering the Grote Markt was
designed by Lieven de Key
in 1622. It is typical of Dutch
Renaissance architecture,
combining elaborate gables,
ornate painted detail and
Classical features, such as
pediments over the windows.
In a niche above the main
entrance is a plump allegorical
figure of Justice, bearing a sword
in one hand and scales in the
other as she smiles benignly
Grote Markt, Haarlem (c.1668) by Berckheijde, showing the Grote Kerk upon the pavement cafs in the
market below. To the left, in
E Frans Hals Museum upper walls and 28 supporting Koningstraat, an archway leads
See pp9091. columns painted in greens, reds to the university buildings behind
and golds. The intricate choir the Stadhuis, where there is a
R Grote Kerk screen, like the magnificent brass 13thcentury cloister and library.
Grote Markt 22. Tel 0235532040. lectern in the shape of a preening
Open 10am4pm MonSat (AprOct eagle, was made by master metal E De Hallen
till 5pm). Closed Easter, Whitsun, 27 worker Jan Fyerens in about 1510. Grote Markt 16. Tel 0235115775.
Apr, 5 May, 25 Dec2 Jan. & 7 8 The choirstalls (1575) are painted Open TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
bavo.nl with coats of arms, and the & dehallen.nl
The enormous Gothic edifice of armrests and misericords are The Verweyhal (museum of
Sint Bavos great church, or Grote carved with caricatures of animals modern art) and the Vleeshal
Kerk, was a favourite subject of and human heads. Not far away (exhibition space), both in
the 17thcentury Haarlem School is the simple stone slab covering the Grote Markt, are part
artists Pieter Saenredam (1597 the grave of Haarlems most of the Frans Hals Museum
1665) and Gerrit Berckheijde famous artist, Frans Hals. (see pp19091). The Verweyhal
(163998). Built between 1400 The Grote Kerk boasts one accommodates exhibitions
and 1550, the church and its of Europes finest and most of Dutch Expressionism, the
ornate bell tower dominate the flamboyant organs, built in Cobra School (see p193),
market square. Clinging on to 1735 by Christiaan Mller. Impressionism and
the exterior of the south wall is In 1738 Handel tried contemporary works.
a jumble of 17thcentury shops the organ and pro It is named after the
and houses. The rents raised from nounced it excellent. painter Kees Verwey,
these ramshackle, untidy It also found favour whose Impressionist
buildings contributed to the with the infant still lifes are an
maintenance of the church. prodigy Mozart, important feature
Today, the entrance to the who shouted for of the collection. The
Grote Kerk is through one of the joy when he gave heavily ornamented
surviving shops, a tiny antec a recital on it in Vleeshal (meat
hamber that leads straight into 1766. The organ is market), just to the
the enormous nave. The church still often used for west of the church,
has a high, delicately patterned, concerts, recordings Detail on Vleeshal faade houses temporary
vaulted cedarwood ceiling, white and teaching. by Lieven de Key exhibitions of modern
HAARLEM 189
The city defences were severely E Museum Haarlem

tested in 1573, when the Groot Heiligland 47. Tel 023-5422427.
Spanish, led by Frederick of Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
Toledo, besieged Haarlem for 27 Apr, Whitsun, 25 Dec. & 7
seven months during the Dutch museumhaarlem.nl
Revolt. The city fathers agreed Located in one of Haarlems
to surrender the town on terms prettiest streets, Museum Haarlem
that included a general amnesty features an interesting display of
for all its citizens. The Spanish artifacts that focuses on the his-
appeared to accept the terms, tory of the city and its environs.
but once the city gates were The museum is housed in the
opened, they marched in and St Elisabeths Gasthuis, a hospital
treacherously slaughtered founded in 1597. After extensive
nearly 2,000 people almost restoration, this almshouse was
the entire population of the city. opened as Haarlems principal
historical museum. The present
E Teylers Museum building dates back to 1610. A
Spaarne 16. Tel 023-5160960. Open stone plaque carved above what
10am5pm TueSat, noon5pm Sun used to be the main doorway in
& holidays. Closed 1 Jan, 5 & 25 Dec. 1612 depicts an invalid being
& 7 - = teylersmuseum.nl carried off to hospital. Changing
The west gate of the Amsterdamse This was the first major public exhibitions connect the past with
Poort (1355) museum to be founded in the the present, making it a perfect
Netherlands. It was established starting point for exploring the city.
art. It was built in 1602 by the city in 1778 by the silk merchant Walking tours are also available.
surveyor, Lieven de Key, and has a Pieter Teyler van der Hulst to
steep step gable which disguises encourage the study of science Haarlem Station
the roof line. The extravagantly and art. The museums Stationsplein.
over-decorated miniature gables eccentric collection of fossils, The first railway line in the
above each dormer window drawings and scientific Netherlands opened in 1839
bristle with pinnacles. A giant paraphernalia is displayed in and ran between Haarlem
painted oxs head on the faade Neo-Classical and Amsterdam.
signifies an earlier function of splendour The original station,
the building. in a series of built in 1842, was
18th-century refurbished in Art
P Amsterdamse Poort rooms. The Nouveau style
Amsterdamsevaart. Closed to public. two-storey between 1905 and
The imposing medieval Oval Hall was 1908. It is a grandiose
gateway that once helped added in 1779 brick building with
protect Haarlem lies close to and contains Tiles depicting various modes an arched faade
the west bank of the river bizarre glass of transport, Haarlem Station and rectangular
Spaarne. The Amsterdamse cabinets full of towers. The interior
Poort was one of a complex of 12 minerals and cases of is decorated with brightly
gates guarding strategic trans- intimidating medical coloured tiles depicting various
port routes in and out of Haarl- instruments. A significant modes of transport. Other
em. The gate was built in 1355, collection of sketches by Dutch highlights are the woodwork of
though much of the elaborate and Italian masters, including the ticket offices and the highly
brickwork and tiled gables date Rembrandt and Michelangelo, decorative wrought ironwork,
from the late 15th century. is shown a few at a time. particularly on the staircases.
Gabled houses from the 17th and 18th centuries along the river Spaarne in Haarlem
Frans Hals Museum

Celebrated as the first modern artist, Frans
Hals (c.15821666) introduced a new realism
into painting. Although his contemporaries
strove for perfect likenesses, Hals knew how
to capture his models characters by using an
impressionistic technique. Even at the age of
80, he still painted impressive portraits, such . Banket van de Officieren van de
as De regentessen van het Oude Mannenhuis in St-Jorisdoelen (Banquet of the Officers
Haarlem (Regentesses of the Old Mens Home of the Civic Guard of St George)
in Haarlem) (1664). The Oude Mannenhuis (old (1616) The features of each of the archers and
the luxury of their banquet room are beautifully
mens home) became the Frans Hals Museum portrayed in this group portrait by Frans Hals.
in 1913. It also has on show many paintings by
other artists from the Dutch Golden Age, as
well as 16th- and 17th- century artifacts.
Key to Floorplan
Works by Frans Hals
Renaissance Gallery
Old Masters
Frans Hals workshop
The Hals Phenomenon
Non-exhibition space
Militia paintings
by Hals
Moeder en Kind (Mother Courtyard

and Child)
After the Reformation (see pp567),
artists such as Pieter de Grebber
(160053) painted secular versions
of religious themes. This work of a
mother feeding her child (1622) is
reminiscent of Mary with Jesus.
. Stilleven (Still Life) (1613)

Floris Claeszoon van Dyck (1574
1651) was famous for his minute
attention to detail and texture.
HAARLEM 191
. Mercurius (1611) VISITORS CHECKLIST

Hendrick Goltzius (1558
1617) is particularly well Practical Information
known for his studies of Groot Heiligland 62, Haarlem
classical nudes. One of a Tel 023-5115775.
three-part set, this canvas franshalsmuseum.nl
was donated to the Open 11am5pm TueSat,
museum by a rich noon5pm Sun & public hols.
Haarlem mayor. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
0=9
St Luke Painting the

Virgin and Child
(1532), Maerten Jacobsz van
Heemskerck. St Luke was the
patron saint of artists professional
associations, the Guilds of
St Luke. This was painted for
the Haarlem Guild.
The Grote Markt in Haarlem, (1696), Gerrit Adriaensz

Main entrance Berckheijde. The Grote Kerk or St Bavokerk, seen here
from the west, is built in the Gothic style and is
Haarlems largest church.
Museum Guide
The best direction to take through the
museum is counter-clockwise, as
exhibitions of the works of Frans Hals,
other portraits, still lifes and pieces of
genre paintings are displayed in roughly
Delft Plate (1662) The Grote chronological order. In the Verweyhal
Markt and Grote Kerk in Haarlem and the Vleeshal (see p188) temporary
(see p186) are depicted on this exhibitions are held of modern and
earthenware plate by M Eems. contemporary art.
i Heemskerk inhabited in Roman times;

Road Map B3. * 36,200. @
archaeological finds are exhibited
Tel 020-7026000. ( Fri. in the Rune van Brederode, a
vvvijmuidenaanzee.nl 13th-century fortress. You will also
feel you are going back in time in
An obelisk honouring Dutch the Romanesque Engelmundus
artist Maarten van Heemskerck kerk. Buitenplaats Beeckestijn is
stands in the cemetery of the one of the many houses built on
17th-century Hervormde the coast in the 17th and 18th
Kerk (Reformed church). Slot centuries by rich Amsterdammers.
Assumburg (Assumburg castle), Its gardens, as well as the period
dating from the 15th century, was rooms on the ground floor, are
built on the site of a 13th-century open to the public.
fortified house. Slot Marquette is
just as old but acquired its T Rune van Brederode
present form only two centuries Velserenderlaan 2, Santpoort. Tel 023-
ago. Fort Veldhuis is part of the 5378763. Open MarOct: Wed, FriSun
Egmond lighthouse, a welcoming beacon Stelling van Amsterdam, a 135- & heerlijkheidbrederode.nl
for ships at sea km (84-mile) defensive line that + Buitenplaats Beeckestijn
encircles Amsterdam. It is now a Rijksweg 136. Tel 0255-522877. House:
u Egmond small war museum, dedicated to Open ThuSun. & Garden: Open
the sac-rifices made by pilots daily. buitenplaatsbeeckestein.nl
Road Map B3. * 11,600. @ n
Voorstraat 141, Egmond aan Zee (072- during World War II.
5061473). ( Thu. vvvegmond.nl
E Fort Veldhuis p Zandvoort
Egmond is divided into three Genieweg 1. Tel 0251-230670.
Road Map B3. * 15,500. @
parts: Egmond aan de Hoef, Open MayOct: Sun. & 7 n Bakkerstraat 2b (023-5717947).
Egmond-Binnen and the ( Wed. vvvzandvoort.nl
seaside resort of Egmond aan
Zee. The counts of Egmond once o Velsen/IJmuiden Once a fishing village, Zandvoort
lived in Egmond aan de Hoef. Road Map B3. * 67,600. @ g
is now a modern seaside resort
Only the foundations remain of n Marktplein 33 (020-7026000). where in the summer half the
the kasteel (castle), which is ( Thu. population of Amsterdam relaxes
open to visitors. on the beach or saunters down
Egmond abbey, in Egmond- Hollands largest fishing port the busy main street. The village
Binnen, is the oldest abbey in is IJmuiden as visitors can guess centre still has old fishermens
Holland and Zeeland. This 10th- from the penetrating smell of fish houses. Zandvoort is famous
century structure was destroyed, and the wonderful restaurants in for its motor racing circuit,
however, by Sonoy, chief of the the port. The Noordersluis (north where Formula 1 races were
Beggars of the Sea (see p245). It lock), which forms part of the once held. It has since been
was not until 1934 that a new North Sea canal lock system, is restored and is now attempting
abbey was built; Benedictine one of the biggest locks in the to achieve its former status.
monks still live here today. The world. While coming across you To escape the crowds, ramble
small Abdijmuseum (abbey will pass by the Hoogovens (blast- through the Amsterdamse
museum) and candle factory furnaces), where you can take Waterleidingduinen.
can be visited (tel. 072-5062786, a round trip on a steam train.
www.abdijvanegmond.nl). The area around Velsen was Circuit Park Zandvoort
Burg. van Alphenstraat 108. Tel 023-
5740740. Open daily. & during
meets. cpz.nl
a Stoomgemaal
De Cruquius
Road Map B3. Cruquiusdijk 27. @
Tel 023-5285704. Open MarOct:
daily; NovFeb: Wed, Sat & Sun. &
7 museumdecruquius.nl
The Stoomgemaal (steam-

driven pumping station) at
De Cruquius is one of the
three steam-driven pumping
Slot Assumburg in Heemskerk, a youth hostel since 1933 stations used to drain the
NORTH HOLLAND 193
destroyed in a tremendous storm such as Museum van der Togt,

in 1674, and a fine 18th-century with its unique collection of
church now stands on its site. glass objects. The Electrische
Today Ouderkerk aan de Amstel Museumtramlijn (Electric
is popular with cyclists who Tramline Museum, tel. 020-
come to enjoy its waterfront 6737538) keeps the past alive.
cafs and restaurants. On Sundays from April to
October you can take a return
trip from Amsterdam to
d Aalsmeer Amstelveen on a historic tram.
Road Map B3. * 22,900. @ ( Tue.
The Amsterdamse Bos
The Cruquius steam pump at (Amsterdam forest) is lovely for
Museum De Cruquius Aalsmeer is famous as the centre rambling, picnicking or playing
for floriculture in the Netherlands sport. The Bosmuseum is dedic-
Haarlemmermeer. It has not (see pp345). It also holds the ated to the origins of the forest.
been in use since 1933 and is biggest bloemenveiling (flower The Cobra Museum voor
now a museum. The original auction) in the world; you can Moderne Kunst (Cobra
steam engine is in the machine take part in the Museum
hall, which has eight pumps auction from of Modern Art)
moved by beams. An exhibition a special gallery. concentrates on
gives a comprehensive Many green- the work of the
overview of water management houses are to be Electric tram, Electrische Cobra group,
in the Netherlands. seen around Museumtramlijn established in 1948
Aalsmeer. One important activity by Danish, Belgian and Dutch
here is the development of new artists. During its brief
s Ouderkerk aan varieties and colours of flower. existence, Cobra abandoned
de Amstel Many modern heroes have a dreary postwar art and
Road Map C3. * 8,200.
new flower named after them. introduced modern art
@ Amstelveen. definitively to the Netherlands.
( Bloemenveiling Flora Holland
This pretty village at the Legmeerdijk 313. Tel 0297-397000. E Museum Van der Togt
junction of the Amstel and the Open 711am MonWed & Fri, Dorpsstraat 50. Tel 020-6415754.
Bullewijk rivers has been a 79am Thu. & floraholland.nl Open WedSun. Closed 1 Jan,
favourite with Amsterdammers 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & jvdtogt.nl
since the Middle Ages. They had
no church of their own until f Amstelveen E Cobra Museum voor
1330, and worshippers had to Road Map B3. * 78,800. @ ( Fri. Moderne Kunst
travel to the 11th-century Sandbergplein 13. Tel 020-5475050.
Ouderkerk that gave the village Amstelveen is home to many Open TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
its name. The Old Church was interesting modern art museums, 25 Dec. & 7 cobra-museum.nl
Women, Children, Animals (1951) by Karel Appel in the Cobra Museum

flooded as a defence line in

Holland, and of Naardens
eventful past. Costumed
gunners regularly demonstrate
the ancient artillery. There is a
nice walk around the town along
the footpaths on the walls.
E Comeniusmuseum
Kloosterstraat 33. Tel 035- 6943045.
Open TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec, 31 Dec. & =
comeniusmuseum.nl
E Nederlands Vestingmuseum
Westwalstraat 6. Tel 035-6945459.
The Muiderslot, built in 1280, a site of many legends Open 10:30am5pm TueFri, from
noon Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
g Muiden then later destroyed and rebuilt 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 =
around 1350. In the 15th and vestingmuseum.nl
Road Map C3. * 6,700. @
16th centuries, it was occupied
In the Middle Ages, the pretty in turn by the Spanish and the
town of Muiden was an outport French. The first thing you j s-Graveland
for Utrecht but later became notice on arrival is the tower of
Road Map C3. * 9,200. @
part of the defence system of the 14th-century Grote Kerk.
the Stelling van Amsterdam The churchs wooden vaulted s-Graveland is a special
(see p192), together with fort ceiling has been beautifully place in Het Gooi (see p176).
island Pampus. The town is decorated with pictures from In the 17th century, nine
mainly known for its castle, the Old and New Testament. country estates were built
the Muiderslot, which is more Around 400 years ago, Czech here for rich Amsterdammers.
than 700 years old and was priest Comenius fled to the Just across from these lie
built by Floris V. After his death Netherlands, and now lies the modest houses that
it was demolished and rebuilt. buried in the 15th-century belonged to the labourers.
The most famous inhabitant Waalse kapel (Walloon chapel). Businesses now use the
was the 17th-century poet The Spaanse Huis (Spanish country houses, as the upkeep
PC Hooft, who formed the house), which was converted is too expensive for individuals.
Muiderkring (Muiden circle), a into the Waag (weigh house), Five parks are owned by the
circle of friends occupied with is now home to the Vereniging Natuurmonumenten
literature and music. Most of Comeniusmuseum, which and are open to visitors.
the castle rooms are furnished explores the life and ideas of You can learn more at
in 17th- and 18th-century style. the Czech scholar Jan Amos the Bezoekerscentrum
The garden and orchard also Comenius (15921670), who (visitors centre).
retain their former glory. Visitors is buried here. The Nederlands
can take the ferry to Pampus. Vestingmuseum (fortress P Bezoekerscentrum Gooi-en
museum) is in one of the six Vechtstreek
+ Muiderslot bastions of the fortress and has Noordereinde 54b. Tel 035-6563080.
Herengracht 1. Tel 0294-256262. an exhibition of the Hollandse Open TueSun.
Open AprOct: daily; NovMar: Waterlinie, a strip of land natuurmonumenten.nl
Sat & Sun. & 8 muiderslot.nl
+ Pampus
g from Herengracht 33 (AprOct:
TueSun) Tel 0294-262326.
pampus.nl
h Naarden
Road Map C3. * 17,000.
@ ( Sat.
The fortified town of Naarden

lies behind a double ring of
canals and walls. The original
town is thought to have been
founded in the 10th century, Star formation of the fortress of Naarden
NORTH HOLLAND 195
E Museum Hilversum
Kerkbrink 6. Tel 035-5339601.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. museumhilversum.nl
l Naardermeer
Road Map C3. n Meerkade 2,
Naarden (035-6990000). 8 7
natuurmonumenten.nl
The Naardermeer is an area

of lakes and marshland
renowned for its breeding
colonies of cormorants and
purple herons. Several other
birds, such as the marsh harrier,
Hilversum town hall, finished in yellow brick the bittern, the reed warbler
and the spoonbill, can also
k Hilversum Bouwen. One of his most be observed here. Unusual
Road Map C3. n Kerkbrink 6. Tel
famous creations is the 1931 orchids, rare mosses and fungi
035-5446971. * 84,500. @ Raadhuis (town hall), with its grow here. The Naardermeer
( Wed & Sat. vvvhilversum.nl towers and beautiful interior is the oldest protected nature
(tours are given on Sundays). reserve in the Netherlands.
This dynamic centre in Het Its basement holds an Its creation was the start of
Gooi is known as the media exhibition on Dudok and the Vereniging Natuurmonu-
centre of the Netherlands, temporary architectural menten (Nature Reserve
because of the large number of exhibitions. The Museum Association). The association
broadcasting companies that Hilversum combines the has set out several walking
have been established here. Goois Museum and the Dudok tours around the area, which
Hilversum boasts a busy Centrum, illuminates the past are accessible to everyone.
shopping centre and attractive of Het Gooi and features an From April to November there
residential areas with a lot of archaeological collection. The are guided boat tours on the
greenery. Here and there you Neo-Gothic Sint-Vituskerk, lakes. Book via 035-6559955
will see houses and buildings designed by PJH Cuypers (see or online. No dogs allowed.
designed by architect Willem p94), with its 98-m (322-ft)
Dudok (18841974), a repre- tower, dates from 1892 and
sentative of the Nieuwe is worth a visit. z Laren
Road Map C3. * 11,100. @ ( Fri.
The Erfgooiers Alongside pretty villas and
During the Middle Ages, the farmers of Het Gooi (see p176) joined country houses, Laren has many
together in a group to regulate the use of the heathland and converted old farmhouses, a
meadows. From 1404, their rights were held in plough share notes. reminder of the time when it
Members of the group were known as erfgooiers, men living in Het was a farming village. In the
Gooi who were descendants of these medieval farmers. The right 19th and early 20th centuries,
of use was later converted into common property. The erfgooiers Laren and its surroundings
had to constantly fight for their rights. From the 19th century were the inspiration for many
onwards, the government strived to disband the group. In 1932, landscape and interior painters,
the heathland was sold, as were the meadows after 1965. The
such as Mauve, Israls and the
Association of Erfgooiers was disbanded in 1971.
American W Singer. The Singer
Museum has been set up in his
old house. Here you can see his
work and that of other 19th-
and 20th-century artists. There
is also a sculpture garden.
Sint-Jansbasiliek (1925)
towers above the Brink and
its charming restaurants.
E Singer Museum
Oude Drift 1. Tel 035-5393939.
De Erfgooiers (1907) by F Hart Nibbrig Open TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. & 7 singerlaren.nl
UTRECHT
The province of Utrecht, with the lively university city
of the same name at its heart, has a vast range of
attractions for visitors, including farmhouses,
mansions, museums and castles, all set in a varied
and attractive wooded landscape, and with a
fascinating history dating back to Roman times.
The city of Utrecht has its origins in AD 47, In more recent times, the University
when the Romans built a camp by a ford of Utrecht has been a great source of
(trecht) at the river Rhine, which followed economic and artistic development,
a different course in those days. In 695, and the city is home to a modern
Bishop Willibrord established himself here manufacturing industry and major
to promote the spread of Christianity. From Dutch corporations.
the 11th century, the church authorities Visitors will enjoy the pretty country-
enjoyed not only spiritual but also secular side ideal for car or cycle touring the
power in this region, which has seen much country houses and historic buildings,
conflict: over the centuries the counts of the street markets and a great variety
Holland, the dukes of Burgundy, the of attractions ranging from old steam
Spaniards, the French and the Germans locomotives to barrel-organs and
have all tried to make their mark here. Australian Aboriginal art. But in this eco-
The regions proximity to Amsterdam has conscious country, with its awareness of
meant that it has been able to share in the the need for conservation, it may be the
capitals prosperity as wealthy merchants outdoors, with its sparkling lakes and
and landowners built their mansions and possibilities for leisurely country walks,
estates along the river Vecht (see p202). that will appeal the most.
De Haar castle in Haarzuilens, a Neo-Gothic construction (1892) built by Pierre Cuypers

Koppelpoort, one of Amersfoorts 15th-century gates
Exploring Utrecht Province

The city of Utrecht is the central point of the province
and is therefore the ideal base for sightseeing in the
surrounding area. The Vinkeveense Plassen (Vinkeveense
Lakes) are popular for watersports, and nature lovers will
appreciate the woodland area of the Utrecht Heuvelrug.
There are castles in Amerongen and Wijk bij Duurstede
The Vinkeveense Plassen, formed
and numerous imposing country houses along the Vecht. by peat excavations
Windmills and working farms can be spotted here and
there in the countryside. Many defence points, such as
in Woerden, serve as reminders of the turbulent
past of this province, which has been at stake Abcoude
during fierce battles more than once.
VINKEVEENSE
PLASSEN
t
ch
Ve
LOENEN
Mijdrecht Vinkeveen
COUNTRY ESTATES
ON THE VECHT Loosdrechtse
Plassen
NIE U
Breukelen W
E
H O
LL
A SLOT
N ZUYLEN
Maarssen D
SE
W Groenekan
A
Vleuten TE
The heksenwaag (witches scales)
RL
in Oudewater IN
IE
WOERDEN UTRECHT
Harmelen
De Meern
Getting Around
Larger towns have railway stations;
smaller ones can be reached easily
by bus. Utrecht, the capital of the Nieuwegein
Montfoort
province, is the biggest railway
junction in the Netherlands and OUDEWATER
IJsselstein
so train connections from this
town are excellent. There is also a Tull en
t Waal
regional bus station. Utrecht has
a highly developed road network
Vianen
and is served by important main
Lopik
roads such as the A2 (northsouth)
and the A12 (eastwest), but there
is also a large number of minor k
roads, tourist routes and cycle Le
paths in the area.
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Rhenen, with its characteristic Cuneratoren National border

UTRECHT 199
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Paleis Soestdijk, its park designed by landscape gardener Zocher
BUNSCHOTEN
SPAKENBURG
BAARN
LAGE SOESTDIJK
VUURSCHE
SOEST
Historical centre of Amersfoort, largely
AMERSFOORT still preserved
Bilthoven
Leusden
Soesterberg
De Bilt
Zeist Woudenberg
UTRECHT
Utrecht Heuvelrug
Driebergen
DOORN Veenendaal
Houten
Leersum
AMERONGEN
ijn
rR
WIJK BIJ Elst

de
Ne
DUURSTEDE
RHENEN
Sights at a Glance
1 Vinkeveense Plassen q Bunschoten-Spakenburg
2 Loenen w Utrecht pp2049
3 Slot Zuylen e Amersfoort
4 Woerden r Doorn
5 Oudewater t Wijk bij Duurstede
6 Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie y Amerongen
7 Country Estates along the Vecht u Rhenen
8 Baarn/Soest
The Windmill at Wijk by Jacob van 9 Soestdijk
Ruisdael (see p128) 0 Lage Vuursche
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
1 Vinkeveense
Plassen
Road Map C3. @ s
De Vinkeveense Plassen
(Vinkeveense Lakes) came about
through human intervention
this site was once marsh. The
thick peat layers have been
excavated over the centuries.
The large towns in the surrounding
area needed peat; sales of this
fuel meant that the people here
started to earn a decent living.
The peat was therefore dug up
more and more extensively,
eventually leading to a large
area of lakes.
Today, the Vinkeveense Lakes
attract many watersports lovers,
cyclists and walkers. When its not
the breeding season, you can take
a rowing boat through the nature Stately Slot Zuylen, where Belle van Zuylen lived in the 18th century
reserve of Botshol, which is home
to marsh and grassland birds. summerhouses and boathouses, 3 Slot Zuylen
built over the centuries. It is now Road Map C4. @ 36,120. Castle:
a protected village. Tournooiveld 1, Oud-Zuilen. Tel 030-
2 Loenen Kasteel Loenersloot, built on 2440255. Open AprOct: 11am5pm
the bank of the Angstel, is one TueSun; NovMar: 11am5pm Sat
Road Map C3. * 8,350.
@ ( Tue am.
of Loenens oldest country & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25, 26 &
estates. The building dates back 31 Dec. & 8 slotzuylen.nl
In the 10th century, this place to the 13th century, though
was called Lona, meaning water only the round defence tower The original U-shaped castle
or mud. Loenen fell under two remains; the rest dates from the was built around 1520 on the
jurisdictions and has two courts 17th and 18th centuries. remains of a medieval residential
dating from the beginning of the tower. At the beginning of the
18th century. Loenen on the Vecht + Kasteel Loenersloot 16th century, a new castle
is famous for its rural atmosphere, Rijksstraatweg 211. 8 AprOct: Thu was built on the foundations
castles and country estates & Sat. utrechtslandschap.nl/ of the old house and the
complete with coach houses, loenersloot gateway was added. Up to
the 18th century, extensive
rebuilding brought the castle
into line with contemporary
architectural style.
The author Belle van Zuylen
(17401805) was one of the
castles most famous inhabi-
tants. She was renowned for her
correspondence at home and
abroad, which she cleverly
used to show her modern
attitude. Several rooms are
furnished as they were when
she resided here.
The serpentine wall that
runs alongside the castle
is interesting because its
unique shape provides so
much protection that even
in this cool sea climate,
subtropical fruits such as
peaches and grapes can
Loenen on the Vecht still boasts an aristocratic appearance flourish here.
UTRECHT 201
4 Woerden their innocence. Oudewater

Road Map C4. * 34,800. @
was the only place where
( Sat am. witches could be legally
weighed in public.
Woerden came into being on
the dykes along the Rhine and P Heksenwaag
Lange Linschoten. Granted its Leeuweringerstraat 2. Tel 0348-563400.
town charter in 1372, it has Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueSun;
been besieged many times but JunAug: daily; NovMar: 11am5pm
always managed to hold out. Sat & Sun. & 7 ground floor.
heksenwaag.nl
Between 1575 and 1576, during
the Thirty Years War, the
Spaniards tried to conquer
Woerden, as did the French in 6 Nieuwe Hollandse
1672, but neither invader Nesting storks in Oudewater Waterlinie
succeeded in capturing the Road Map C3C4.
town. Impenetrable kasteel van Utrecht fought fiercely for hollandsewaterlinie.nl
Woerden (Woerden castle), built Oudewater, which was
between 1405 and 1415, was converted into a border The Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie
extensively restored around 1990. stronghold by Floris V. In 1349, (New Dutch Inundation Line),
In the 18th century, the Oude Oudewater was captured by Jan laid out from 1815 to 1940, is
Hollandse Waterlinie (old van Arkel, the Bishop of Utrecht. comprised of 68 forts and
Holland waterline) a strip of In 1572, Oudewater sided with public works, from Muiden and
land flooded as a defence line the Prince of Orange and, as a Naarden in North Holland to
was extended, thereby result, the town was seized in Werkendam in North Brabant.
strengthening Woerden. 1575 by the Spanish. They Utrecht has 27 installations,
exacted a bloody revenge by more than any other province.
burning the town to the ground. The Waterlinie was intended as
5 Oudewater Oudewater flourished again a defence against invading
Road Map C4. * 10,000. @
during Hollands Golden Age. armies; a wide strip of land
n Leeuweringerstraat 10 (0348- The towns most famous would simply be flooded.
561628). ( Wed. oudewater.net attraction is the scales, dating Utrechts installations are now
from the 16th century, better being protected, and have
This little town, thanks to its known as the heksenwaag been put forward for UNESCOs
favourable position on the IJssel (witches scales). Women who World Heritage Site register. The
and the Linschoten, became a were suspected of witchcraft original reconnaissance positions
prosperous town early on and, came here to be weighed. If and unimpeded lines of fire will
by 1265, had been granted its their weight and their outward hopefully be preserved. The best
city charter. The counts of appearance tallied, they were installations are at Rijnauwen,
Holland and the bishops of given a certificate as proof of Groenekan en Tull and t Waal.
Bombproof barracks of the Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie (Fort Rijnauwen, Bunnik)

7 Country Estates along VISITORS CHECKLIST
the Vecht Practical Information

Road Map C4. Vechtstreek
Country estate houses, with their summerhouses, museum: Diependaalsedijk 19,
magnificent railings and extensive gardens, can be Maarssen. Tel 0346554440.
Open MaySep: 11am5pm
seen threaded along the Vecht, especially between WedSun; OctApr: 25pm
Maarssen and Loenen. They were built in the 17th and WedSun. & 7 ground floor.
18th centuries by wealthy Amsterdam inhabitants who
wanted to escape the noise and stench of the city in the
summer. The estates were status symbols, places where
city-dwellers could devote themselves to hobbies such Goudestein in Maarssen
as tree cultivation, hunting and still-life painting. One of the first country estates in
the Vecht, Goudestein was built
in 1628 by Joan Huijdecoper. The
The chimneys present building, which dates from
were considered 1775, is now used as government
to be decorative offices. The coach house is now a
elements. fascinating pharmacy museum.
Nijenrode
A university has now
been set up in this
castle formerly
belonging to the
Lords of Nijenrode.
The coat of
arms of the
Huijdecoper
family decorates
the faade.
The entrance
has an impressive
The house contains
flight of
a grand staircase and
stone steps.
rooms furnished with
decorative drapes.
One of the rooms
Between Breukelen and is now used for
Loenen the Vecht resembles wedding ceremonies.
an architectural museum. The
country estates (Vechtvliet is
shown here) are surrounded
by established parks and
ornamental outbuildings.
UTRECHT 203
8 Baarn/Soest
Roadmap C3. @ * 70,000.
n Van Weedestraat 131, Soest (035-
7400074). ( Baarn Tue, Soest Thu.
During the Netherlands Golden

Age, regents and wealthy mer-
chants had splendid summer
residences built in Baarn and its
environs. This place has retained
its leafy, elegant appearance. The
Kasteel Groeneveld (1710) lies
in the middle of a magnificent
park. Soests past is pre-9th century,
and the old centre remains largely
in its original state. The church
dates from 1400. The surrounding Bunschoten-Spakenburg, once home to an important fishing industry
area is beautiful and offers a
wealth of leisure activities. The small octagonal castle into being in the 15th century.
Drakenstein, which dates back It was once an important
+ Kasteel Groeneveld to 164043, is the residence of fishing town; its smoke-
Groeneveld 2. Tel 035-5420446. Princess Beatrix, former Queen houses, fishermens houses
Castle: Open 11am5pm TueSun. of the Netherlands. and shipbuilding yard
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 & 31 Dec. are reminders of this time.
& Park: Open sunrisesunset Tue When the Zuiderzee was
Sun. 7 - kasteelgroeneveld.nl q Bunschoten- closed in 1932 because of
Spakenburg partial land reclamation,
the inhabitants had to
Road Map C3. * 19,500.
9 Soestdijk @ n Oude Schans 90 (033-
look for other work. Some
of the women in the town
Road Map C3. n Van Weedestraat 2982156). ( Sat.
still wear traditional dress.
131, Soest (035-7400074). Paleis
Soestdijk: Amsterdamsestraatweg Over the years, the towns of Museum Spakenburg brings
1, Baarn (035-5412841). Bunschoten and Spakenburg the fishing activities of the
Open Check website for details. have merged into one another. past back to life.
paleissoestdijk.nl Livestock farming was the
traditional livelihood in E Museum Spakenburg
Just outside Baarn lies Paleis Bunschoten, and there are Oude Schans 4763. Tel 033-2983319.
Soestdijk. It was built in 1674 still some pretty farms to see Open AprOct: 1:305pm Mon,
as a place for Viceroy William III here. Bunschoten, granted its 10am5pm TueSat; NovMar:
to hunt. In 1815, it came into town charter in 1383, is older 14pm WedSat. & 7
the hands of the crown prince, than Spakenburg, which came museumspakenburg.nl
who later became King William
II. The two wings of the palace
were added in 1816 and the
park was designed by landscape
gardener Zocher. The Naald
van Waterloo (Waterloo needle)
stands opposite, erected in
honour of William Frederick,
Prince of Orange, for his services
during the Battle of Waterloo.
0 Lage Vuursche
Road Map C3. * 250. @ n Van
Weedestraat 131, Soest (035-7400074).
The name Furs for Lage

Vuursche has been around
since 1200, though the village
itself has existed only since
the 17th century. The village,
surrounded by woodland, is
very popular with ramblers. Outdoor cafs in Lage Vuursche offering respite after a walk in the woods
w Street-by-Street: Utrecht
The area to the south of the centre gives one
a good idea of how people once lived in Utrecht.
Rich citizens lived in the stately houses on
the Nieuwegracht, with its typical Utrecht
wharves, and built almshouses for their less
fortunate neighbours. No doubt because of the
great number of museums in this area, it came
to be called Museumkwartier (museum district). KORT
E SM ZUILEN
The old city walls gave way to a magnificent EEST
R A AT
park which was designed by landscape
gardener Zocher. GR
AC
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DE
NIEUW STR AAT

OU
VROUW
JUTTENS
T R A AT
LANGE
. Oudegracht
The Oudegracht represented a vital
transport route for the economy of
Utrecht in the 13th century. When the
water level fell, cellars were built along
the wharves. These were used as
warehouses or workshops. Today, some
of them house cafs and restaurants.
Centraal Museum
The rich and varied contents
include works by the 16th-century
artist Jan van Scorel, as well as the
largest collection of Rietveld
furniture in the world.
AGNIETEN
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Almshouses
The Pallaeskameren (Pallaes rooms) are 12
little almshouses built on the instructions of
Maria van Pallaes in 1651.The inhabitants had
free accommodation and a certain amount
of food and drink annually.
UTRECHT 205
Cathedral VISITORS CHECKLIST

B R I G I T T E N S T R A AT
Road Map C4. * 340,000.
visit-utrecht.com
n Domplein 910 (0900-
OF
1288732). ( Wed, Fri &
NH
Sat. _ Liberation festival:
HT
5 May; Festival Oude Muziek:
TE
NIEUWE GRAC
end Aug; Netherlands Film
UN
Festival: end Sep.
BR
S T R A AT Transport
Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.
RK
LWE
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VAA
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. Catharijneconvent
GRACHT
Museum Catharijneconvent (Lange

Nieuwstraat 38) is devoted to
religious art. It is located in the
former St Catherines convent,
NIEUWE
dating back to 1468. Part of the

convent church dates from 1529.
A AT
STR
Key
Recommended route
Nederlands
Spoorwegmuseum
(Dutch railway museum)
Old carriages and steam
locomotives can be seen
Sonnenborgh in the former Maliebaan
The 19th-century Station, dating back to the
observatory, now home 19th century. The exhibition
to an astronomy room features the history of
museum, was the Dutch railways.
established on one
of the four bulwarks
along the Singel.
Exploring Utrecht 15th-century former convent.

Its fascinating collection
Utrecht, founded by the Romans in AD 47, has been a provides a good overview
bishopric and university town for centuries. It has grown into of the troubled history of
a lively city, thanks to its central position. Utrecht was very Christianity in the Netherlands.
It includes paintings by,
prosperous during the 16th and 17th centuries, when many
among others, Rembrandt van
of the magnificent canalside houses were built. These houses Rijn, ancient manuscripts and
are a characteristic feature of the town centre, as are the richly decorated books. The
medieval churches and monasteries. The city centre is museum also houses numerous
compact, so is very suitable for exploring on foot. visiting exhibitions. From the
museum you can enter into
the Catharijnekerk (1529).
of the church was connected to
the tower by an arch, allowing the
bishop to move safely to and from E Centraal Museum
the church. In 1674, the nave was Agnietenstraat 1. @ Tel 030-2362362.
destroyed by a hurricane. The tower Open 11am5pm TueSun.
has stood on its own since then. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7
The interior of the church, with 8 - centraalmuseum.nl
its stained-glass windows, Neo- Centraal Museum, the oldest
Gothic organ (1831) and magnif- municipal museum in the
icent chancel, is worth a visit. Netherlands, has a large and
extremely varied collection,
the oldest pieces of which date
E Aboriginal Art Museum from the Middle Ages. Extensive
Oudegracht 176. @ Tel 030-2380100. rebuilding and renovations
Open 10am5pm TueFri, 11am5pm were carried out in 1999
Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, and 2015, giving rise to an
25 Dec. & 7 - = aamu.nl interesting combination of
This museum, the only one of old and new. The museum has
its kind in Europe, is devoted the largest collection of Gerrit
to the many different styles of Rietveld furniture in the world.
The 112-m (367-ft) Domtoren rises Aboriginal art, including painting Works by Utrecht artists such
above the town and sculpture. The focus is on as Van Scorel and Bloemaert,
traditional art produced in as well as 20th-century artists
P Domtoren Australian co-operatives. such as Pyke Koch and Dick
Domplein. @ Tel 030-2360010. Bruna creator of the childrens
Open 10am5pm TueSat, noon E Museum character Nijntje (Miffy) are
5pm SunMon.Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, Catharijneconvent also showcased. Brunas works
25 & 26 Dec. & 8 obligatory. Lange Nieuwstraat 38. @ are shown in the Brunahuis
domtoren.nl Tel 030-2313835. Open 10am5pm across the road. The varied
The first thing you will see from TueFri, 11am5pm Sat, Sun & hols. exhibitions range from
the distance is the Domtoren Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr. & 7 8 - traditional art to fashion and
(cathedral tower) rising above the = catharijneconvent.nl historical costumes, to modern
town. The Dom (cathedral) has The museum is split between art and applied art and design,
become the symbol of the town. a canalside house and a to the local history of Utrecht.
Utrecht came into being on the
Domplein (cathedral square),
where the Romans had a
settlement in the 1st century AD.
In 695, Bishop Willibrord
established himself here. In 1040,
Bishop Bernold ordered a cross
of churches to be built, which
meant four churches with the
later Domkerk in the centre. Work
began on building the Domkerk
in 1254 and in 1321 on the tower.
The Gothic tower was finally
finished in 1382.
Collegiate churches usually
have two towers, but the
Domkerk has only one. The nave The Matchmaker by Gerard van Honthorst in the Centraal Museum
UTRECHT 207
trains line the platforms. E Universiteitsmuseum

Children can ride around Lange Nieuwstraat 106. @ Tel 030-
the museum grounds on 2538008. Open 10am5pm daily.
a miniature railway. Adults Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
and children alike will enjoy 78-=
the exhibition inside, which universiteitsmuseum.nl
includes old advertising The Universiteitsmuseum is in
posters and model trains. a purpose-built building close
to the Centraal Museum. The
collection here covers education
E Nationaal Museum since the university was established
Speelklok tot Pierement in 1636 and includes weighing
Steenweg 6. @ Tel 030-2312789. and measuring instruments
Open 10am5pm TueSun & hols and a collection of curiosities.
(also Mon in school hols). Closed 1 Jan, Behind the museum is the
27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - University of Utrechts lovely Old
museumspeelklok.nl Botanical Garden (1723), which
Garden of the beautiful inner This museum is inside the is open to the public.
Domkerk quadrangle 13th-century Buurkerk
Utrechts oldest church. The ( Markets
E Nederlands museums collection displays the The Vredenburg holds a general
Spoorwegmuseum history of mechanical musical market on Wednesdays and
Maliebaanstation. @ Tel 030- instruments. The showpiece is a Saturdays. On Fridays it holds a
2306206. Open 10am5pm TueSun rare 15th-century musical clock. market for ecologically genuine
& public hols (also Mon in school You will also see and hear agricultural produce. On Satur-
hols). Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr. & 7 8 pierementen, the large organs days, the Janskerkhof hosts a
- spoorwegmuseum.nl pushed by organ grinders, music large flower and plant market.
The superb Dutch Railway boxes, fairground organs and On the same day, magnificent
Museum is very appropriately chiming clocks, as well as many bouquets are sold along the
situated in a former railway smaller instruments with Oudegracht, the old canal. The
station, in use from 1874 chiming mechanisms. Many of Breedstraat market, also held on
until 1939. Magnificent old the instruments are demonstrated Saturdays, is the venue of the
locomotives, carriages and on the guided tour. cloth market.
Utrecht City Centre

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Street-by-street map (pp2045) E EST
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NG
LA

Rietveld Schrderhuis The Hanging

Lamp
When designing this house, architect Gerrit Rietveld Rietveld
worked closely with his client, Mrs Schrder, who lived designed this
here from 1924 until her death in 1985. The house was to unusual lamp
epitomize all that was modern and broke with many of in around
1922.
the architectural standards of the time. This can be seen
in the design of the top floor, which may be divided in
different ways by sliding partitions, according to the
requirements of the inhabitants. The house was
declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2001.
. Sliding Partitions
Using sliding partitions, the top floor
could be divided into separate rooms
for Mrs Schrders children.
Telephone Seat
The house was to reflect the
modern times in which it was
designed, and so functional items
like the telephone and fuse box
were given a prominent location.
De Stijl
This Dutch artistic movement, founded in 1917, aimed to integrate
art further into everyday life. Proponents wanted to bring painting
and architecture closer together in a new way. The use of colour in
the Rietveld Schrderhuis is one expression of this idea. Rietveld
was a member of De Stijl from 1919, though he disagreed with
certain ideas held by others in the group (see p132).
De Stijl member Theo van Doesburg was mainly interested in straight lines and Intercom
primary colours. The geometric surfaces of this painting do not depict reality but The Schrders intercom sign
offer a glimpse of universality. instructed visitors to First ring.
If no answer use mouthpiece.
UTRECHT 209
Gerrit Rietveld
The architect
VISITORS CHECKLIST
always used scale
The skylight in the Practical Information
models when
roof above the stairs Road Map C4. Prins Hendriklaan
designing houses,
allows additional 50, Utrecht. Tel 030-2362310. Open
but could also
light to reach the for guided tours only. Closed 1 Jan,
draw excellent
top floor. 27 Apr, 25 Dec.& ^ 8 11am
floor plans
5pm TueSun (book through
(contrary to what
website). centraalmuseum.nl
was often said).
Transport
@ 8.
The Hanging Lamp
. Rietveld Furniture
In 1918, Rietveld
designed what we now
know as the Red Blue
Chair. It was originally
finished in clear
varnish; only in 1923 did
Rietveld paint it in what
would become classic
De Stijl colours.
. Disappearing Corner
The dining corner has a spectacular
feature: when the windows are opened,
the corner disappears. Formerly the view
from here was panoramic but in 1939,
much to Rietvelds consternation, a road
was built just next to the house.
e Amersfoort
Road Map C4. * 149,700.
@ n Breestraat 1 (0900-
1122364). ( Thu, Fri & Sat.
vvvamersfoort.nl
The old town centre of

Amersfoort contrasts sharply
with the districts that surround
it, which reflect a contemporary
architectural style. The centre is
defined by small streets with
old houses and gardens. The
Muurhuizen (wall houses) were
built on the site of the old
defence ring. The Onze Lieve The 15th-century Koppelpoort, one of Amersfoorts three surviving gates
Vrouwetoren (Tower of Our
Lady) is difficult to miss. The artspace does not have its own r Doorn
contours of this old chapel can collection but curates exhibitions Road Map C4. * 10,000. @
still be seen in the stones of the on contemporary art and culture, n Langbroekerweg 10 (0343-421020).
pavement. In 1787, the chapel, architecture and design. Attached ( Thu am. vvvheuvelrug.nl
which was used to store to it is an art school and a shop
gunpowder, was blown up. that sells books on art and other Doorn, originally called Thorheim
The Amersfoortse kei memorabilia. The library, the (home of Thor, god of thunder),
boulder appeared in the town Amersfoot Archives, is a must visit. is a pretty village in wooded
in 1661, when a nobleman bet surroundings. The greatest tourist
he could drag the stone from Environs attraction here is Huis Doorn,
the Leusderheide. Ever since, Some 4 km (2 miles) away, where between 1920 and 1941
Amersfoort has held the annual in the village of Leusden, Kamp the German Kaiser, Wilhelm II,
Keistadfeest (Keistad festival) in Amersfoort is a grim reminder of lived with his retinue. (He fled his
celebration of the event. the areas history. A Dutch army country after World War I.) The
The Museum Flehite gives barracks was transformed in 1941 kaiser lies buried in a mausoleum
an overview of the history of into a work camp for more than in the castle gardens. The kaisers
Amersfoort from the Middle Ages. 35,000 people, including Jewish former garage is now a pavilion
The town was the birthplace of prisoners and Jehovahs Witnesses. commemorating World War I, and
abstract painter Mondriaan, the Many were later transported to its impact on the Netherlands.
leading light of the De Stijl and concentration camps. The camp The Von Gimborn Arboretum
Neo-Plasticist movements. The also held American and Russian is a 27-hectare botanical garden
house where he was born is now prisoners of war. The site is now begun in 1924. Part of the
home to the Mondriaanhuis a national monument. Several University of Utrecht, it was origi-
voor Constructieve en Concrete commemorative ceremonies nally the private garden of Max
Kunst, a study centre and archive are held each year. von Gimborn, an ink manufacturer
of the artists life and work, who was a tree expert and plant
including several of his paintings. E Museum Flehite collector in his spare time.
On the edge of town, housed in Westsingel 50. Tel 033-2471100.
an eye-catching building named Open 11am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
Eemhuis, is Kunsthal KAdE. This Sat & Sun. Closed Mon & public hols.
& museumflehite.nl
E Mondriaanhuis voor
Constructieve en Concrete Kunst
Kortegracht 11. Tel 033-4600170.
Open 11am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. mondriaanhuis.nl
E Kunsthal KAdE
Eemplein 77. Tel 033-4225030.
Open 11am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
SatSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
0 7 = kunsthalkade.nl
E Kamp Amersfoort
Loes van Overeemlaan 13, Leusden.
Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren, a church tower Tel 033-4613129. Open TueSun. Von Gimborn Arboretum, one of the
in Amersfoort kampamersfoort.nl Netherlands largest gardens
UTRECHT 211
One of the countrys largest u Rhenen

gardens, it is home to ten huge Road Map C4. * 19,000. @
sequoia trees and a collection of n Markt 20 (0317-612333). ( Thu.
rhodo-dendrons. Although best
visited in spring and summer to Rhenen lies on the north bank
see (and smell) the flowers in of the Rhine, at the border
bloom, the gardens contain plants between the flat Betuwe and
for all seasons. the Utrecht Heuvelrug. This area
was inhabited as far back as the
+ Huis Doorn Iron Age. Many of the towns
Langbroekerweg 10. Tel 0343-421020. historic buildings were destroyed
Open 15pm WedFri, noon5pm Sat during World War II, but the Late
& Sun. 8 mandatory. & 7 = Gothic Cuneratoren (Cunera
huisdoorn.nl tower), built between 1492 and
Y Von Gimborn Arboretum 1531, escaped the bombs. The
Velperengh 13. Tel 0343-412144 Raadhuis (town hall) dates from
Open daily. & Medieval castle tower in Wijk the Middle Ages. May 1940
gimbornarboretum.nl bij Duurstede saw a fierce battle on the 53-m
(174-ft) Grebbeberg, a long-
mountain, despite being just time strategic point in the
tWijk bij 69 m (225 ft) high. The town lay surrounding area. The victims lie
originally on the Via Regia, the buried in the military cemetery.
Duurstede royal route from Utrecht to East of the town, on the
Road Map C4. * 23,000. @ Cologne. From the 17th to 19th road to Wageningen, is the
n Markt 24 (0343-575995). ( Wed. centuries, tobacco was grown Ouwehands Dierenpark. This
in this area, as is evident by the zoo contains all the favourites,
Dorestad was an important drying sheds which are still like tigers, monkeys and
trade centre in Carolingian times. standing. You can have a proper elephants. There is also a large
Plundering Vikings and a shift in look at an old drying shed in the bear wood, the berenbos,
the river basin of the Rhine led Tabaksteelt Museum. In 1672, 20,000 sq m (66,000 sq ft) of
to its decline. In the 13th century, the towns castle, Kasteel forest-like landscape, where
Wijk (near Dorestad) emerged Amerongen, was destroyed by brown bears and wolves
and became the home of the the French. It was rebuilt in the wander free. Other attractions
Utrecht bishops around 1450. They Dutch Classical style. include a tropical aquarium
brought prosperity and influence and plenty of childrens
to the town until, in 1528, the E Tabaksteelt Museum activities, from a huge, jungle-
bishop lost his secular power. Burg. Jhr van den Boschstraat 46. themed adventure playground
The impressive Kasteel Duurstede Tel 0343-456500. Open TueSun pm. called RavotAapia, to special
dates from the 13th century, 7& weekends dedicated to
when it was originally built as a + Kasteel Amerongen particular animals, and
donjon, the castles fortified inner Drostestraat 20. Tel 0343-563766. educational programmes.
tower, surrounded by a moat. Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueSun;
This was extended in 1500, and NovMar: 11am5pm ThuSun. Y Ouwehands Dierenpark
bishops lived here until 1580. & 8 mandatory. Grebbeweg 111. Tel 0317-650200.
The castles park was laid out kasteelamerongen.nl Open daily. ouwehand.nl
in 1850 by Jan David Zocher.
Y Kasteelpark Duurstede
Langs de Wal 7. Castle: Open AprOct:
TueSun (by appt). Park: Open daily.
y Amerongen
Road Map C4. * 7,000. @
n 0343-412015.
Situated on the bank of the

lower Rhine, which can be crossed
by ferry, Amerongen lies in the
ridge of hills known as the
Utrechtse Heuvelrug, a national
park. The Amerongense Berg
marks the highest point in the
ridge and has earned the name A country house set in one of the large parks surrounding Wijk bij Duurstede
SOUTH
HOLLAND
For tourists, South Holland is pure delight. Although
densely populated, the province still has plenty of open
space and offers a remarkable range of attractions for
visitors of all kinds. The landscape is typically Dutch, with
large areas of reclaimed land dotted with windmills and grazing cattle.
From Roman times on, South Holland was port of Rotterdam, one of the largest in
principally a low-lying swampy delta as the world, and The Hague, home of the
the various courses of the river Rhine Dutch government, the royal family and
reached the sea. The influence of the the International Court of Justice. Delft is
counts of Holland (9th13th centuries), famous for its exquisite hand-painted
who took up residence in The Hague, porcelain and china, while Gouda is
attracted trade with Flanders, Germany renowned for its cheese. The North Sea
and England, and settlements became coast has charming resorts, from busy
towns. Leidens university, the oldest in the Scheveningen, with its attractive pier, to
country, was founded as long ago as 1565. the smaller seaside towns of Katwijk and
Peat extraction for fuel created lakes, Noordwijk, with long sandy beaches. It is
reclaimed land (see pp267) was turned an ideal region for family holidays and for
into productive farmland, and the Dutch children of all ages.
dairy industry flourished. Other products Visitors in spring are in for a treat when
in international demand included beer they tour the north of the province.
and textiles and, in more recent times, Bulb fields erupt in a riot of colour, and
year-round flowers and the famous Dutch the Keukenhofs flower gardens are
bulbs. Overseeing all this activity is the simply unforgettable.
Servants waiting for the queen next to her Golden Coach on the third Tuesday of September (Prinsjesdag)
Sunrise over the windmills at Kinderdijk
Exploring South Holland

In the north of the province of South Holland are the colourful
bulb fields and the Keukenhof, while in a semi-circle to the
south lie the old university town of Leiden, bustling The
Hague, cosy Delft and the modern port city of Rotterdam.
The islands of South Holland bear witness to the countrys
military history in Hellevoetsluis and Brielle. Ramblers will
find all they wish for in the dunes by Wassenaar or in the river
countryside at Leerdam, which is best known for its glass- The 14th-century Huys Dever, near Lisse
blowing industry. From Gorinchem you can take a passenger Noordwijk
aan Zee
ferry to the 14th-century castle of Slot Loevestein, which
played a key role in the history of Holland. Katwijk
aan Zee
Wassenaar
SCHEVENINGEN
THE HAGUE
Rijswijk
Monster
Wateringen
The Panorama Mesdag in The Hague Hoek van DELFT

Holland
Europoort
Oostvoorne MAASSLUIS SCHIEDAM
BRIELLE Vlaardingen
Spijkenisse Hoogvliet
O
ud
Goeree e M a as
HELLEVOETSLUIS
GOEDEREEDE Ha Oud-Beijerland
rin
gv
lie
Greenhouses in the Westland
t
MIDDELHARNIS
O verf lak ke e
Getting Around
Oude-Tonge
South Holland has a comprehensive system of roads,
and both big cities and small towns can be reached
equally quickly. However, during the morning and
afternoon rush hours you should watch out for traffic
jams. In the centres of the big cities it is best to leave
your car in a car park, as finding an on-street parking
space can often be a problem. Trains are a fast way of
getting from A to B. As a rule you will find a train for your
particular destination departing every quarter or half
hour. Lisse and the bulbfields, Nieuwpoort and the
towns on South Hollands islands can be reached only
by local bus. VVV and ANWB tourist information offices
provide information on cycling routes. One of the Keukenhofs spectacular flowering fields
SOUTH HOLLAND 215
Sights at a Glance
2 Lisse q Gouda pp2423
3 Keukenhof w Reeuwijkse Plassen
4 Leiden pp21821 e Nieuwpoort
5 The Hague pp2229 r Gorinchem
6 Scheveningen t Leerdam
S
D
7 Delft pp23033 y Dordrecht

EL
8 Maassluis u Kinderdijk
FI
KEUKENHOF 9 Schiedam i Brielle

LB
LISSE 0 Rotterdam pp23441 o Hellevoetsluis

BU
p Middelharnis
a Goedereede
Roelofarendsveen
Tour
1 Bulb Fields pp21617
LEIDEN Nieuwkoop
Voorschoten
Alphen aan
den Rijn
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Bodegraven
Boskoop
Zoetermeer
Waddinxveen REEUWIJKSE
PLASSEN
Bleiswijk GOUDA
ZUID-HOLLAND
Schoonhoven
Capelle aan
den IJssel
NIEUWPOORT
Lek
ROTTERDAM Bergambacht
Meerkerk
LEERDAM
Ridderkerk KINDERDIJK
Alblasserdam
Barendrecht
Papendrecht GORINCHEM
Zwijndrecht
Sliedrecht
DORDRECHT
s-Gravendeel
Strijen
Holl ie p
an ds D
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border The Flemish Gothic Stadhuis in Gouda
1 Bulb Fields Tips for Drivers

The Bollenstreek, a 30-km (19-mile) stretch between Haarlem Starting point: Haarlem.
and Leiden, is Hollands primary bulb-growing area. From Distance: Approximately 30 km
(19 miles).
March, the polders are aglow with glorious colours the Stopping-off points: Along with
crocuses are the first to flower and the season culminates the places discussed below,
around mid-April with the majestic tulips. The lilies then where various cafs and
follow at the end of May. Visitors without cars can obtain restaurants are to be found,
Noordwijk aan Zee is worth a
information about cycle routes from the tourist information short detour. This lively coastal
office, the VVV, at Lisse. Bikes can be hired at railway stations town, with its wonderful beach
in Haarlem and Heemstede-Aerdenhout. and dunes, makes an ideal place
for a stopover.
Amsterdam
1 Cruquiusmuseum
Haarlem
In this former steam-
driven pumping
Zandvoort station, you
can see how
The dunes of North Holland the people
of Holland
0 kilometres 4
managed to
keep the water
Aalsmeer
0 miles 4 in check
(see pp1923).
Amsterdamse
3 Keukenhof Waterleiding- 2 Linnaeushof
er
Visitors are greeted by the duinen

old
This huge park, named

erp
intoxicating aroma and vivid after the famous 18th-

erme
colours of millions of century botanist, has

flowering bulbs.
lemm
one of the biggest

Hillegom playgrounds in Europe.
Haar
5 Sassenheim
To the west of the town 4 Lisse
lie the ruins of Burcht Lisses museum
Teylingen, the showcases the bulb-
11th-century castle growing industry; you
where Jacoba of can also take a boat
e
Bavaria, countess trip on the lakes.

an d
J
of Holland, died
vaart v
in 1436. Noordwijk Key

aan Zee J
Ring
Aalsmeer Route
North Sea
Roads
Kager-
plassen
Rijnsburg Leiden/
The Hague
7 Katwijk 6 Voorhout
An unusual early 17th-century Panorama Tulip Land is a panoramic
lighthouse stands to the north painting of the Bollenstreek. Its
of this coastal town, which lies dimensions are enormous: 63 m
on the estuary of the Oude Rijn. (207 ft) wide and 4 m (13 ft) tall. A tulip field in the Bollenstreek

SOUTH HOLLAND 217
Flowering Bulbs
Flowers such as gladioli,
lilies, narcissi, hyacinths, irises,
crocuses and dahlias are mainly
grown in the Bollenstreek.
By far the most important,
though, is the tulip, which
originally came from Turkey
and was cultivated by Carolus
Clusius in 1593 for the first time
in the Netherlands.
Aladdin tulips
Colourful flowering bulbs in the shady Keukenhof
2 Lisse Environs
Just outside Lisse is Huys Dever,
Map B3. * 20,000. @ 50
(from Leiden & Haarlem) & 90 (from a fortified residential tower which
Noordwijk). n Heereweg 219 (0252- dates from the second half of the
417900). vvvlisse.nl 14th century. The permanent exhi-
China Pink tulips bition at the tower illustrates the
The best time to see Lisse is lives of the families who lived here.
at the end of April, when the
colourful Bloemen Corso P Huys Dever
(flower parade) takes place (see Heereweg 349a. Tel 0252-411430.
p36). A vibrant procession of Open 25pm TueSun. Closed
floats passes from Noordwijk public hols. 8 by arrangement.
to Haarlem, where they are kasteeldever.nl
brightly illuminated at night
and can still be seen the next
Tahiti narcissi day. On the two days before the 3 Keukenhof
parade, you can see close-up Map B3. @ 854 (from Leiden Centraal
how the floats are decorated Station), 858 (from Schiphol airport).
in the Hobaho halls in Lisse. Tel 0252-465555. Open late Marmid-
The Museum De Zwarte Tulp May: daily. & 8am6pm. 7 0
(black tulip museum) covers keukenhof.nl
the history of bulb growing
and illustrates the life cycle of Lying in a wooded park of 32 ha
bulbs. It also touches upon the (79 acres) close to Lisse, the
Minnow narcissi tulipomania in 162037 (see Keukenhof is one of the most
pp345), when investors pushed spectacular public gardens in the
up the demand for rare tulip world. It was set up in 1949 as a
bulbs to such an extent that showcase for bulb-growers and
they were worth their weight currently has around 6 million
in gold. bulbs planted in it. Fields are full
of dazzling narcissi, hyacinths and
Bloemen Corso tulips in bloom from the end of
bloemencorsobollenstreek.nl March to the end of May. You can
E Museum De Zwarte Tulp also see the white blossom of the
Heereweg 219. Tel 0252-417900. Japanese cherry tree in the park
Open MarAug: 11am5pm; Sep early in the season and, later,
Blue Jacket hyacinths Feb: 15pm. Closed public hols. & the bright flowers of the azaleas
7 - museumdezwartetulp.nl and rhododendrons.
4 Street-by-Street: Leiden
Leiden is a thriving university town which dates from . Rijksmuseum
Roman times. The town developed because of its van Oudheden
This squat statue of a
position on a branch of the Rhine and is still an
kneeling treasury
important trade centre. Some excellent museums scribe is just one of
chart Leidens eventful past, including the Golden the many impressive
Age, when the town was a centre for world trade (see Egyptian artifacts on
display in this fascinating
pp523). Rembrandt van Rijn (see pp3031) was born
museum of antiquities.
here in June 1606 a plaque on the faade of a
Weddesteeg house marks his birthplace. During
term time, the streets of Leiden are busy with
students cycling between lectures or frequenting
the cafs and bookshops. EBRU
G
LANG
SC
HO
PA
OL
PE
ST
NG
EE
RA
G
CH
. Hortus Botanicus
T
The botanical gardens belonging to the

University of Leiden (see p220) were started
in 1590 for the teaching of every body who
T
studies in the medicinal sciences. CH
RE
GE
RA
HOUTSTR AAT
PE
0 metres 50
NB
0 yards 50
UR
G
G
EE
K ST
O
KL
G
EE
ST
N EN
Faades N
NO
Aristocrats, professors
and textile families all Dutch Classicism can be
contributed to the face seen in the university
of the Leiden canals. buildings on Rapenburg.
Het Gravensteen
Part of the law faculty is now
accommodated in this former
counts prison, built between
the 13th and 17th centuries.
LEIDEN 219
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map B3. * 119,000.
vvvleiden.nl
n Stationsweg 26 (071-
5166000). ( Wed & Sat.
_ Zomerfestival: early Jul; Relief
of Leiden Celebrations: 2 & 3 Oct.
Transport
Stationsplein.
Hoogstraat
The Hoogstraat, where two canals meet,
is popular for its floating terraces and
basement restaurants.
G
G E Korenbeursbrug
E
B
E T
E
R
T S The stone corn-exchange

E
S N
E
F A bridge over the Nieuwe

S
IE M
T
D S Rijn was given a roof in

R
R
A
A 1825 in Neo-Classical
A
A
T
M style so that the corn

traders would
G be protected from
E
E
T the rain.
S
R
O
O
H
C
K
R
E
K
S
R
E
T
IE
PI
P
ET
ER
SK
ER
The Stadhuis
KH
LA
(1596) by Lieven
de Key.
O
N
F
G
EB
RU
G
T
AA Around the Pieterskerkhof
S TR you will find antique shops,
D
EL cafs and restaurants.
N EV
N
ZO
Key
HERE
NIE
Recommended route
UW
NSTE
STE
. Pieterskerk
EG
EG
This church contains

the tombstone
marking the oldest
intact grave in the
Netherlands that of
the 15th-century
merchant Floris van
Buschuyse and his wife.
Exploring Leiden
Leiden is famous for its university, which is the oldest in the
country. It was founded in 1575, one year after the Beggars of
the Sea (see p245) freed the town from a protracted siege by the
Spanish (see p53). As a reward for their endurance, William of
Orange offered the people of Leiden the choice between a
university and the abolition of taxes. The people made a shrewd
choice and the town went on to become a centre of intellectual
progress and religious freedom. English Puritan dissidents, victims
of persecution in their homeland, were able to settle here in the
17th century before undertaking their journey to the New World.
One of the 35 almshouses in Leiden
E Museum de Lakenhal to be missed is the large bronze
Oude Singel 2832. Tel 071-5165360. cooking pot said to have been Clusius, who introduced the
Closed to the public, renovations left by the Spaniards during tulip to Holland (see pp345),
underway (scheduled to reopen in the relief of Leiden in 1574. The became the first professor of
2018). & 7 8 - lakenhal.nl spicy casserole it contained botany at the University of
In the 17th century, the lakenhal is re-created as a stew cooked Leiden. The Hortus Botanicus
(cloth merchants hall) was the every year on 3 October to features a reconstruction of his
centre of the Leiden textile commemorate Dutch victory walled garden. Also worth a look
industry. Arent van s Gravesande over the Spanish. are the tropical greenhouses, the
designed the building in 1640 in rose garden and the Von Siebold
Dutch Classical style. The munic- Y Hortus Botanicus Leiden Japanese memorial garden.
ipal museum has been here since Rapenburg 73. Tel 071-5275144.
1874. The showpiece of the Open summer: 10am6pm daily; E Museum Boerhaave
collection, which was rescued winter: 10am4pm TueSun. Lange St Agnietenstraat 10. Tel 071-
from the Pieterskerk (St Peters Closed 3 Oct, 24 Dec1 Jan. 8 & 5214224. Closed to the public,
Church) during the religious 7 partial. hortusleiden.nl renovations underway. 8 & 7 -
disputes of 1566 (see pp567) is The botanical garden of Leiden = museumboerhaave.nl
The Last Judgment (15267), a was founded in 1590 as part of Located in the former Caecilia
triptych in Renaissance style by the university. A number of its Hospital in the centre of Leiden,
Lucas van Leyden. Other Leiden trees and shrubs are particularly this is the Netherlands National
artists, from Rembrandt old, such as a laburnum dating Museum of the History of
to Theo van Doesburg, from 1601. In 1593, Carolus Science and Medicine. It is
are also featured. named after the great
The museum has Dutch professor of
displays of silver, medicine Herman
glass, tin and tiles Boerhaave (1668
and explores 1738). The collec-
the history of tion reflects the
Leiden. Not development
Lucas van Leydens triptych of The Last Judgment, in the Museum de Lakenhal
LEIDEN 221
of mathematics, astronomy,
physics, chemistry and medicine. The Pilgrim Fathers
Exhibits range from a magnificent In the 17th century, the
15thcentury astrolabe and Netherlands was a refuge for
pendulum clocks by Christiaan English Puritans. Minister John
Huygens (162995) to surgeons Robinson (15751625) founded a
equipment of yesteryear and church in Leiden in 1609, where
early electron microscopes. he inspired his congregation with
his dream of the New World. The
E Museum Volkenkunde Pilgrim Fathers set out in 1620 from
Steenstraat 1. Tel 0715168800. Delfshaven aboard the Speedwell,
Open 10am5pm TueSun & public but the ship proved to be unsea
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct, worthy. They then crossed the
25 Dec. & 7 - = Atlantic from Plymouth, England,
volkenkunde.nl
on the Mayflower, but Robinson
This excellent ethnological stayed behind, too ill to travel. The Mayflower crossing the
museum, founded in 1837, has He died in Leiden in 1625. Atlantic Ocean
collections which feature non
Western cultures, such as
ethnographic items brought century, stands in the middle of There is a marvellous view of
by the German explorer a shady square that seems Leidens historic centre from
Philipp von Siebold from to be from a different age. the gallery.
Japan in the 19th It is worth a visit for its austere
century. The vast interior and the carefully E Rijksmuseum van
collection focuses restored Van Oudheden
on the interaction Hagerbeer Rapenburg 28. Tel 09006600600.
between various organ (1639 Open 10am5pm TueSun & public
cultures and their 43), one of the worlds hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct, 25
links with the few meantonetuned Dec. & 7 8 - = rmo.nl
Netherlands; organs. The floor of This museum has one of the
hence Indonesia Heraldic lion at De Burcht the nave is covered top seven Egyptian collections
has a consider with worn stones, in the world, the centrepiece
able amount of floor space. The which mark the graves of famous of which is the 2,000yearold
museum covers practically the 17thcentury intellectuals such as Taffeh Temple. Other civilizations
whole world, from the Arctic Puritan leader John Robinson, from the Near East and from
to Oceania. physician Hermanus Boerhaave Classical Antiquity are also
and Golden Age artist Jan Steen. represented. The section on
E Naturalis Biodiversity archaeology of the Netherlands
Center + De Burcht gives visitors an idea of what
Darwinweg 2. Tel 0715687600. Burgsteeg. Open daily. the Low Countries were like
Open 10am5pm daily. Closed 27 The Burcht is a 12thcentury from prehistoric times to the
Apr, 3 Oct, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - = fortress which features a still Middle Ages. Mummies,
naturalis.nl intact circular wall and textiles and shoes, musical
Opened in 1998, the national crenellated battlements. At the instruments and fragments of
natural history museum, attracted foot of the 12m (39ft) artificial Roman mosaics and frescoes
a record number of visitors. It mound is a wroughtiron gate form just part of the museums
provides a truly fascinating insight covered in heraldic symbols. impressive holdings.
into the evolution of the earth and
its inhabitants with displays of
fossils more than a million years
old, and lifelike replicas of animals,
stones and minerals. The star
exhibit is a complete skeleton of a
Tyrannosaurus rex, discovered in
Montana in 2013. Special exhi
bitions for children are also held.
P Pieterskerk
Pieterskerkhof 1a. Tel 0715124319.
Open 11am6pm daily, except when
church is hired out (check website).
Closed 3 Oct. 7 pieterskerk.com
This impressive Gothic cruciform
church, built mainly in the 15th A drawbridge across the Oude Rijn in Leiden
5 Street-by-Street: The Hague

The village of Die Haghe (the hedge) grew around
the Binnenhof (inner courtyard), which has been an
important political centre since the 13th century.
The princes of Orange, the upper classes and an
extensive diplomatic corps gave instructions for
palaces and mansion houses to be built, and a stroll
across the Voorhout or along the Hofvijver will still
evoke its aristocratic charm. The Hague today is LA
represented by the new Spuikwartier (Spui district), N
G
E
with the city hall by Richard Meier and the Lucent V
O
Danstheater by Rem Koolhaas. To the west, the dunes O
R
and many parks and woods are still reminiscent of
the country estate it once was.
T
OU
RH
OO
EV
NG
LA
T
A
A
. Escher in Het Paleis T
R
A permanent exhibition of the graphic S
W
artist Maurits Cornelis Escher can be U
IE
RG
visited in the Paleis Lange Voorhout, N BE
where Queen Emma and Queen E
ER
Wilhelmina once lived. G

O
JV
H
VI
E
G
N
LA
KN
Gevangenpoort EU
TE
The Dutch lion adorns RD
the faade of the IJK
Gevangenpoort
(prison gate), originally
the main gate of the
14th-century castle of
the counts of Holland.
From the 1400s, it was
used as a prison.
Key
Recommended route
0 metres 50
Galerij Prins Willem V
This was the first public art gallery 0 yards 50
in the Netherlands.
THE HAGUE 223
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Jantje, a statue based on
a Dutch nursery rhyme, Practical Information
points to the Binnenhof. Road Map B4. * 497,000.
denhaag.com
n Spui 68 (0900-3403505).
( MonFri. _ Scheveningen
Sand Sculpture Festival: May;
Scheveningen Vlaggetjesdag:
end of May/beg of Jun; Parkpop:
LD
Haags Historisch Museum end of Jun; Pasar Malam Besar:

Featured is the history of The mid-May; Prinsjesdag: 3rd
VE
Hague, from the Middle Ages Tue in Sep; Crossing Borders

OI
to the present day. Festival: mid-Nov.

NO
Transport
UR
H Centraal Station (CS); Koningin

O L
TO
U A Julianaplein 10; Hollands Spoor

T N
G (HS); Stationsplein 25.
E
H
O
U
T
S
T
R . Mauritshuis
A On display here in an exquisite
A
T collection are 17th-century old
KO masters, including works by
RT Rembrandt and Vermeer.
E
VI
JV
ER
BE
RG
IN
E
L
P
The Tweede Kamer

The accommodation for the Tweede
Kamer, the Dutch Lower House, was
N
designed by Pi de Bruijn and has been

F
TE
HO
in use since 1992. The building blends

O
EN
tastefully with the older buildings

P
NN
surrounding it. Plenary sessions are held

E
BI
in the Grote Vergaderzaal (great assembly

IN
hall) behind the circular extension.

LA
E
L
P
F
O
H
HOFW
EG
The Hague, you tap it and it

sings wrote Dutch poet Gerrit
Achterberg in Passage. The
elegant covered arcade of shops . Binnenhof
in Neo-Renaissance style on the This ancient structure comprises the parliament and government
Hofweg is a famous feature of buildings and was originally the 13th-century hunting lodge of the
the town centre. counts of Holland.
Exploring The Hague through the Ridderzaal and

debating chambers of the
The Hague has numerous attractions and museums, of which Upper or Lower House.
the Mauritshuis (see pp2267) and the Gemeentemuseum
E Museum De
(municipal museum) (see p228) are the most famous. There
Gevangenpoort
are many bookshops, antique shops and cafs on and around Buitenhof 33. Tel 070-3460861.
the Denneweg, which comes out onto the Lange Voorhout, @ v Open 10am5pm TueFri,
as well as luxury boutiques on the promenade beginning at noon5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
Paleis Noordeinde. Behind the Mauritskade lies the stately 25 Dec. & 8 obligatory; last guided
tour 3:45pm. gevangenpoort.nl
late-19th-century Willemspark, which is still almost
The prison-gate museum, in
completely intact, with the Panorama Mesdag (see p228).
a 14th-century gatehouse,
You can admire the peaceful Japanese garden in Park contains an old prison still
Clingendael (see p228). The old fishing village of largely in its original state.
Scheveningen has expanded to become a lively seaside Cornelis de Witt was kept here
resort, but the dunes all around still offer peace and quiet. on suspicion of conspiracy
against Prince Maurice. In 1672,
as he and his brother Johan left
P Binnenhof met Ridderzaal Spanish rule in 1581 with the the prison, they were murdered
Binnenhof. Tel 070-7570200. @ v Plakkaat van Verlatinge (Decree by a provoked mob. The museum
Open for guided tours only. Closed of Abandonment); they held has a unique collection of
Sun, public hols, 3rd Tue in Sep. & a huge feast for William of horrific torture instruments. It
8 Booking obligatory (via website). Orange in the Ridderzaal. shares an entrance with Galerij
prodemos.nl The Binnenhof was one Prins Willem V.
The historic Binnenhof is a of the most important
series of buildings erected European centres of E Galerij Prins Willem V
around the hunting lodge of diplomacy in the Buitenhof 33. Tel 070-3023456. @
the counts of Holland. In 1247, Golden Age. The v Open noon5pm TueSun.
William II was proclaimed Holy magnificently Closed 1 Jan, 5 & 25 Dec. &
Roman Emperor; he later had ornate meeting galerijprinswillemv.nl
the Gothic Ridderzaal (Hall hall dates from Prince William V was an
of the Knights) built as a this period and is enthusiastic collector of
banqueting hall. The Binnenhof where the Upper 17th-century art. In 1774, his
has since then been the House currently private collection was put
residence of stadholders, sits. The Lower Porcelain from the Museum on show for the public in
princes and governments. House met in Bredius collection this former inn, which the
The court of Holland has William Vs old prince had converted into
administered justice since 1511 ballroom until 1992, when it his office. The treasures in this
in the Rolzaal (Roll Court). The was moved to a new location. gallery include paintings by
northern provinces of the Tours of the building begin in Rembrandt, Jan Steen and
Netherlands broke free from the medieval cellars and pass Paulus Potter (162554).
E Museum Bredius
Lange Vijverberg 14. Tel 070-362
0729. @ v Open 11am5pm
TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& museumbredius.nl
Art historian and art collector
Abraham Bredius was also
director of the Mauritshuis
(see pp2267) from 1895 to
1922. On his death in 1946
he bequeathed his collection
of 17th- and 18th-century
art, including paintings by
Rembrandt and Jan Steen,
to the city of The Hague. The
elegant 18th-century mansion
on the north side of the
Hofvijver which houses the
museum also has fine antique
furniture and porcelain and
Landscape by Fading Light by Albert Cuyp (Museum Bredius) beautifully engraved silver.
THE HAGUE 225
P Vredespaleis
Carnegieplein 2. @ 22 and 24.
v 17. Tel 070-3024242. Open Tue
Sun (Visitors Centre). 8 SatSun.
Closed public hols and when
court is in session. & 7 ^
vredespaleis.nl
In 1899, The Hague hosted the
first international peace
conference. Contributions from
the courts members decorate
the interior of the mock-Gothic
Vredespaleis (peace palace),
designed by the French architect
Louis Cordonnier and completed
The Classical-style Paleis Noordeinde, where King Willem-Alexander has his offices in 1913. The International Court
of the United Nations, formed
E Escher in Het Paleis P Paleis Noordeinde in 1946, is based here.
Lange Voorhout 74. Tel 070-427 7730. Noordeinde. Open only the Paleistuin
@ v Open 11am5pm TueSun. (palace garden) is open to the public. P Passage
Closed 1 Jan, 3rd Tue in Sep, 25 Dec. In 1640, Stadholder Frederik Between the Spuistraat, Hofweg
& escherinhetpaleis.nl Hendrik had his mothers and Buitenhof. @ v
A large proportion of MC Eschers house converted into a grand A visit to The Hague would not
(18981972) work is displayed palace built in the Dutch be complete without a stroll
in the Paleis Lange Voorhout, classical style. The property along the elegant Passage, the
including well-known works of the Princes of Orange since only covered arcade remaining
such as Day and Night, Rising and William V (17481806), this from the 19th century in the
Falling and Belvdre. In addition to is the building where the Netherlands. Unusual specialist
graphic works, there are sketches, present King of the Netherlands, shops can be found here, such
personal documents and Willem-Alexander, has his as the umbrella and fountain
photographs. The museum also offices, and also where he pen shop. The arcade wing that
features the Escher Experience, a leaves from for the state leads to the Hofweg was added
virtual journey through his world. opening of parliament. in 19289.
Den Haag City Centre

Madurodam
1 Het Paleis SCHEVENINGEN
2 Museum De Gevangenpoort
3 Galerij Prins Willem V Het Paleis
4 Museum Bredius UT T E
RT UT
HO OU Park Clingendael
OR RH
5 Ridderzaal VO OO KO RHO
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VO
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6 Passage LA ANG
BU
SC GS
L
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HO TR
7 Mauritshuis AAT T
U WA AT
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UW
LA
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Paleis Noordeinde & EN IS
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Panorama Mesdag HOG ER G U AR

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Museum C
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Bredius
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Mauritshuis TR
RD
RB
Vredespaleis NS N
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Gemeentemuseum PLAATS PLEIN HE PO Centraal Station

G
T Hofvijver
Omniversum AA T E 500m (550 yards)
TR
L EN
S Museum De Ridderzaal K OR
MO Gevangenpoort
OU
Binnenhof
DE
HO
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KO STR
Parliament
M
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PR Galerij Prins PO
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IN Willem V E
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Rotunda U
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Stadhuis ST ROTTERDAM
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Street-by-street map (pp2223)

Mauritshuis
After he was recalled as captain general of
Brazil, Johan Maurits of Nassau commissioned
this house. It was completed in 1644 by Pieter
Post in the North Dutch Classical style with
influences from the Italian Renaissance and
has a marvellous view of the Hofvijver.
After the death of Maurits in 1679, the house
passed into state hands and, in 1822, became
the home of the royal painting collection.
Though the collection is not large, it contains . The Anatomy Lesson of
Dr Nicolaes Tulp (1632)
almost exclusively superior works by old Rembrandts painting of doctors
masters. This, combined with the exquisite examining a corpse reflects the
presentation in elegant period rooms, makes burgeoning contemporary interest
the Mauritshuis one of the finest galleries in in anatomy and science.
the Netherlands.
Museum Guide
The three floors of this museum are hung with paintings from Ground floor
top to bottom. To feature all aspects of the collection, the
exhibits are constantly changing. The masterpieces are always
on view, although not always hanging in the same location.
Presentation is pleasantly haphazard, but all the paintings
are labelled with the artist, title and year. A new
exhibition wing has been added to the museum,
connected to the historic building by an
underground foyer, which also houses a
brasserie and a well-stocked shop.
Basement
Vase with Flowers (1618)

Ambrosius Bosschaert captured the
beauty of summer flowers but added
the flies to remind us of our mortality.
Bordello Scene
(1658) This typical 17th-century
genre painting of a brothel
scene by Frans van Mieris
de Oude (163581) has an Main
unmistakable erotic undertone. staircase
THE HAGUE 227
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Plein 29, The Hague.
Tel 070-3023456.
mauritshuis.nl
Open 16pm Mon, 10am6pm
TueSun (to 8pm Thu). Closed
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 8 -=
Transport
From Den Haag CS: @ 22.
v 2, 3, 4, 6, 15. From Den
Haag HS: @ 18. v 1.
First floor The Goldfinch (1654)

This small, elegant painting
is by Carel Fabritius (162254),
a pupil of Rembrandt.
The Way You Hear It Is

the Way You Sing It (1663)
This moralistic genre
painting by Jan Steen (see
p127) probably shows
what is meant by a
huishouden van Jan
Steen keeping ones
house like a pigsty.
. The Louse Hunt (1653)

Gerard ter Borchs painting
depicts a domestic tableau
and reflects the Dutch
preoccupation with order
and cleanliness during the
17th century.
Key to Floorplan
Portrait gallery
. Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) 15th- and early 16th-century works
At the mid-point of his career, 18th-century Flemish paintings
Johannes Vermeer painted this Golden room
haunting portrait of a girl wearing a
pearl earring. Stories about the true 17th-century Dutch paintings
origins of the girl abound. Non-exhibition space
The Hagues municipal museum, one of HP Berlages most handsome designs
E Panorama Mesdag last piece of work to be carried Dutch and international

Zeestraat 65. @ 22, 24. v 17. out by HP Berlage, founder of the photography.
Tel 070-3106665. Open 10am5pm Amsterdam School. The museum
MonSat, noon5pm Sun & public was completed in 1935, one year Omniversum
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & after his death, and now contains President Kennedylaan 5.
8 on request. panorama- the largest collection of paintings @ 24. v 17. Tel 0900-6664837.
mesdag.com by Mondriaan in the world, with Open daily, first show at 11am.
Panorama Mesdag is one of the works from all his various periods. & 7 - omniversum.nl
best remaining panoramic One of the high points of the The Omniversum (next to the
paintings of the 19th century. The collection is Victory Boogie Gemeentemuseum) is a cross
circular canvas, with a circum- Woogie (1943). Other works between a planetarium and a
ference of 120 m (395 ft), depicts exhibited here include paintings high-tech cinema. It puts on a
the old fishing village of by JH Weissenbruch and brothers programme of films of space flights,
Scheveningen. It is a breathtaking Maris and Josef Israls, all of volcanic eruptions and ocean life.
moment when, after climbing whom were representatives of
the creaking stairs leading the Haag School, which was Y Park Clingendael
up to the panorama, you profoundly inspired by Entrance from Alkemadelaan or
suddenly emerge into the coastal landscape. the Ruychrocklaan. @ 18. Park
daylight, to be surr- The main feature of Clingendael: Open sunrisesunset
ounded by the the applied art daily. Japanese Garden: Open end
dunes and the sea. section is the antique Aprmid-Jun & Oct: sunrisesunset
The illusion is strength- Delftware and oriental daily. -
ened by genuine sand porcelain. The Wonder This country estate already existed
and pieces of wreckage Victory Boogie kamers or Wonder in the 16th century, when it had a
laid at the foot of the Woogie Rooms are housed in large, formal French-style garden.
painting. The painting was the basement which is a In 1830 it was converted into a
done in 1881 by members of the labyrinth of quirky displays, with pretty landscaped park. It contains
Haag School, led by HW Mesdag teenagers as the target audience. a Dutch garden, a rose garden,
(18311915) and his wife Sientje Part of the Gemeente-museum, grazing land for animals, rhodo-
(18341909). George Hendrik with its entrance next door, is dendron woods and an ancient
Breitner (18571923) painted the the Fotomuseum, (www. beech tree.
cavalrymen on the sand. fotomuseumdenhaag.nl) which Overgrown bunkers in the
stages temporary exhibitions of wood are a sombre reminder of
E Gemeentemuseum Den
Haag en Fotomuseum
Stadhouderslaan 41. @ 24.
Gemeentemuseum: Tel 070-3381111.
Open 11am5pm TueSun. Closed
1 Jan, 25 Dec. Fotomuseum: Tel 070-
3381144. Open noon5pm TueSun.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ^ 7 -
= gemeentemuseum.nl
The Gemeentemuseum
(municipal museum) was the The picturesque Japanese Garden in Park Clingendael
THE HAGUE 229
World War II, when the Netherlands Kurhaus is Sea Life Scheveningen,
was occupied and the most senior where you can look through trans-
German authorities took up quar- parent tunnels at stingrays, sharks
ters in Huis Clingendael. At the and many other sea creatures.
centre of the park lies the famous Muzee Scheveningen is devoted
Japanese Garden, which was laid to the history of the village and
out in 1903 on the instructions of the spa. Tours of Scheveningen
Baroness Margurite Mary after a lighthouse can also be booked.
trip to Japan. The tea house and Designed by Wim Quist,
all the stones and ornaments in Museum Beelden aan Zee
the garden were brought over (seaside sculpture museum)
from Japan by boat at the time. can be found on the boulevard,
half-hidden by a sand dune.
Madurodam The model city of Madurodam Contemporary sculptures on
George Maduroplein 1. @ 22. v 9. the theme of the human figure
Tel 070-4162400. Open JanMar & are shown in the light rooms,
NovDec: 11am5pm; AprAug: 6 Scheveningen on the terraces and in the garden.
9am8pm; SepOct: 9am7pm; Although the seaside resort
2431 Dec: 10am7pm. & 7 0 Road Map B4. * 52,000. @ 22.
v 1. n Gevers Deynootweg 990-58 has all but swallowed up the
madurodam.nl
(0900-3403505). ( Thu. original fishing village, there is
Madurodam depicts the still a harbour and a large fish
Netherlands in miniature it This pleasant seaside resort is market. Fishing boat trips can
consists of replicas of historical just 15 minutes by tram from be booked on the southern side
buildings such as the Binnenhof the centre of The Hague. Like so of the harbour a fun outing
in The Hague (see p224), canal- many of the North Sea beach for the afternoon.
side houses in Amsterdam and resorts, Scheveningen had its
the Euromast tower in Rotterdam heyday in the 19th century. O Sea Life Scheveningen
(see p236), built to a scale of 1:25. Nowadays it is a mixture of Strandweg 13. Tel 070-3542100.
Other models include Schiphol faded charm and modern Open 10am6pm daily (to 8pm Jul
Airport, windmills, polders, bulb garishness, though it remains a & Aug). Closed 25 Dec. & 7 -
fields and some examples of the popular holiday resort because sealife.nl
countrys modern architecture. At of its long sandy beach and the E Muzee Scheveningen
night, the streets and buildings Pier, which, after years of Neptunusstraat 92. Tel 070-3500830.
are lit up by 50,000 tiny lamps. neglect, has been renovated and Open 10am5pm TueSat, noon
Madurodam was opened in reopened in 2015. There are many 5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
1952 by Queen Juliana. JML restaurants serving seafood. 25 Dec. & - = muzee.nl
Maduro designed the town in The impressive Kurhaus, E Museum Beelden aan Zee
memory of his son George, who designed in the Empire style and Harteveltstraat 1. Tel 070-3585857.
died at Dachau concentration now a luxurious hotel, was built in Open 10am5pm TueSun.
camp in 1945. Profits go to 1885, when Scheveningen was still Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & -
childrens charities. a major spa town. Not far from the = beeldenaanzee.nl
Thsuki-no-hikari (Light of the Moon) by Igor Mitoraj in the dunes of the Museum Beelden aan Zee
7 Street-by-Street: Delft
Delft dates back to 1075, its prosperity based on the
weaving and brewing industries. In October 1654, however,
an enormous explosion at the national arsenal destroyed
much of the medieval town. The centre was rebuilt at the
end of the 17th century and has remained relatively
unchanged since then houses in Gothic and Renaissance
styles still stand along the tree-lined canals. Town life is
concentrated on the Markt, which has the town hall at one
end and the Nieuwe Kerk at the other. Visitors can dip into
the scores of shops selling expensive, hand-painted
Delftware or take a tour of local factories, the shops . Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
of which are often reasonably priced. William of Orange was killed
on this staircase in 1584, the
bullet holes still visible.
T
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HO
SC
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. Oude Kerk
OU
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The 13th-century Oude

Kerk contains the
DE
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graves of prominent
UR
citizens such as that

DE
of the inventor of the

T
LFT
microscope, Antonie
van Leeuwenhoek.
T
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The Oude Delft is lined TR
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with canalside houses in
Renaissance style.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
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Sint-Hippolytuskapel
This austere red-brick
chapel (1396) was used
Key
as an arsenal during the
Reformation (see pp567). Recommended route
DELFT 231
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map B4. * 95,000.
delft.nl
n Hippolytusbuurt 4. ( Tue,
Thu, Sat. _ Mooi Weer Spelen
(street theatre): mid-Jun; Delft
Chamber Music Festival: early Aug.
Transport
Stationsplein.
View of Delft (c.1660)

Johannes Vermeers painting captures Delft on a cloudy
summer afternoon. The original tower of the Nieuwe
Kerk can be seen in the distance.
T
AA
S TR . Nieuwe Kerk
R
OO The church was built in several
CH
V phases spread over many
R
O years. This statue of William
U
W of Orange stands in the
J middle of his opulent
U
T mausoleum.
T
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A
N
D
W
OU
PA
VL
DE
PE
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AC
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NS
S GR
ST
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Koornbeurs (1650)
The faade of the
old meat hall is
decorated with Stadhuis (1618)
animal heads. After The Renaissance-style town hall was
1871, the building designed by Hendrick de Keyser.
was used as a The building is erected around
corn exchange. a 13th-century Gothic tower.
Exploring Delft
Attractive Delft is world-famous for its blue-and-white pottery
and is renowned in Holland as being the resting place of
William of Orange (153384), the father of the Netherlands.
William led the resistance against Spanish rule in the 80 Years
War (see p53) from his Delft headquarters; his victory meant
religious freedom and independence for the Dutch. Delft was
the Republics main arsenal in the 17th century; an explosion of
gunpowder destroyed a large part of the town in 1654. Artist
Johannes Vermeer (163275) was born and lived in Delft.
R Oude Kerk dates from the 14th century.

Heilige Geestkerkhof 25. Tel 015- The Gothic north transept
2123015. Open AprOct: 9am6pm was added in the early 16th The impressive Renaissance-style pulpit
MonSat; NovJan: 11am4pm century by architect Anthonis (1548) in the Oude Kerk
MonFri, 10am5pm Sat; Feb & Keldermans. Inside, the most
Mar: 10am5pm MonSat. & 7 striking feature is the wooden R Nieuwe Kerk
oudeennieuwekerkdelft.nl
pulpit with canopy. The floor is Markt 80. Tel 015-2123025. Open Apr
The original 13th-century studded with 17th-century Oct: 9am6pm MonSat; NovJan:
church on this site has been gravestones, many beautifully 11am4pm MonFri, 10am5pm Sat;
extended many times. The decorated, including those for Feb & Mar: 10am5pm MonSat. &
beautifully carved clock tower, Johannes Vermeer and admiral 7 oudeennieuwekerkdelft.nl
with its eye-catching steeple, Piet Hein (15771629). The Nieuwe Kerk was built
between 1383 and 1510 but
needed large-scale restoration
after the fire of 1536 and the
massive explosion of 1654 in the
arsenal. In 1872, PJH Cuypers (see
p375) added the 100-m (328-ft)
tower to the Gothic faade. Inside,
the most noticeable feature is
William of Oranges imposing
mausoleum, designed in 1614 by
Hendrick de Keyser. In the middle
stands a statue of William, imp-
ressive in his battledress. Not far
from him is the lonely figure of
his dog, which died a few days
after his master. The tombs of the
royal family lie in the crypt. The
church is being restored, so parts
of it may not be accessible.
E Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
St-Agathaplein 1. Tel 015-2602358.
Open 11am5pm daily & public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & =
prinsenhof-delft.nl
This peaceful former convent
was the scene of William of
Oranges assassination. It now
houses Delfts history museum,
with pottery, tapestries and
portraits of royalty. In 1572, during
the uprising against the Spanish,
William commandeered the
convent as his headquarters. In
1584, a fanatical Catholic, Balthasar
Geraerts, shot and killed him on
The Nieuwe Kerk overlooking Delft market the instructions of Philip II of Spain.
DELFT 233
Delftware
Delftware (see pp323) stems from majolica,
introduced to the Netherlands in the 16th
century by Italian immigrants who had settled
around Delft and Haarlem and begun producing
wall tiles with Dutch designs, such as birds and
flowers. By the next century, however, Dutch
traders had started to deal in delicate Chinese
porcelain; this eventually led to the collapse
of the market for the less refined Dutch
earthenware. Towards 1650, though, the
Chinese example was adopted in the
Netherlands and craftsmen designed plates,
vases and bowls with pictures of Dutch
landscapes, biblical tableaux and scenes
from everyday life. De Porceleyne
Fles factory, which dates from 1652, is one
of the several Delftware potteries open to
the public for tours. 17th-century hand-painted Delft tiles
E Vermeer Centrum Delft 8 Maassluis 9 Schiedam

Voldersgracht 21. Tel 015-2138588.
Road Map: B4. * 31,600. Road Map: B4. * 75,000.
Open 10am5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec.
n Heldringstraat 101 (010-5911440). n Buitenhavenweg 9 (010-4733000).
& 8 Fri (Dutch) & Sun (English). 7
( Tue, Fri. ervaarmaassluis.nl ( Tue am, Fri. sdam.nl
0 = vermeerdelft.nl
The Vermeer Centrum The settlement of Maassluis Schiedam was granted its city
celebrates the work of one of grew up around the locks, charter in 1275 and soon
Delft's most enigmatic artists, which date from 1367; the afterwards expanded into a
Johannes Vermeer (163275). herring trade brought centre for trade and fishing.
The space, dedicated entirely prosperity to the town. It became the centre of the
to the life of the artist, has a The historic town centre is genever (Dutch gin) industry.
series of beautifully designed adorned with 17th-century The production of genever is
displays including a life-size buildings, such as the Grote still important to the town, as
copy of his famous masterpiece, Kerk, with its famous organ, evidenced by the five tallest
The Girl with a Pearl Earring and the Stadhuis, from 1650. windmills in the world and the
(166567). On the upper floor, The towns fine steam tug still old warehouses and distilleries.
visitors can learn about his goes out to sea. Many of Dutch In the bar of the Jenever
painting techniques, particularly writer Maarten t Harts novels Museum (national genever
his use of perspective, colour are set in the Maassluis of museum), you can familiarize
and light. his youth. yourself with the enormous
range of Dutch genevers
and liqueurs.
The Stedelijk Museum
(municipal museum), with
exhibits of contemporary art
and on modern history, is in the
former St-Jacobs Gasthuis. Its
main attraction is the collection
of artwork by the group known
as COBRA (consisting of painters
from COpenhagen, BRussels
and Amsterdam).
E Jenever Museum
Lange Haven 74. Tel 010-2469676.
Open noon5pm TueSun & public
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 & 26
Dec. 7 jenevermuseum.nl
E Stedelijk Museum
Hoogstraat 112. Tel 010-2463666.
Open 10am5pm TueSun.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 7 - =
Genever and corn brandy, products of the genever capital of Schiedam stedelijkmuseumschiedam.nl
0 Street-by-Street: Rotterdam
This route takes you through the area to . Schielandhuis
the south of the town centre, which was Built between 1662
and 1665, the
devastated by heavy bombing in May Schielandhuis is one of
1940. On your way you will see the Witte the few surviving
Huis (White House), one of the few buildings from the
buildings spared by the bombs. Further 17th century.
on you will pass by some unusual
modern architecture, such as the cube-
shaped apartments, Het Potlood (the
pencil), and the maritime museum,
devoted to the history of shipping. In
front of this museum is a monument
by Ossip Zadkine, which is one of the
symbols of Rotterdam. The undeveloped
area around Station Blaak was completely
built up before the bombing.
BL
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. De Verwoeste Stad
The statue De Verwoeste Stad (The
GL
Devastated City) by Ossip Zadkine,

located in front of the maritime
museum, commemorates the
bombing of May 1940. It is
considered one of the most
famous statues in the country.
ES
MPJ
BOO
De Buffel
The old armoured vessel De Buffel,
Key
now open for visitors, was for many
years a training ship. Recommended route
ROTTERDAM 235
Erasmusbrug
VISITORS CHECKLIST
(Erasmus Bridge)
The glittering
Erasmusbrug is now
Road Map B4. * 598,500.
one of the symbols
rotterdam.info
of Rotterdam.
n Coolsingel 1957 (010-7900
185). ( TueSun. _ Film
festival: Jan; ROBIN Rotterdam
Unlimited (carnival): Apr;
Metropolis (pop concerts): Jul;
Zomercarnaval: Jul;
Wereldhavendagen: Sep.
Transport
0 metres 150
Station Blaak is an Stationsplein.
0 yards 150 unusual metro and railway @ Stationsplein.
station, designed by
architect HCH Reijnders.
Het Potlood (the pencil), an
unusually shaped apartment
block near Station Blaak, was
designed by P Blom.
. Kubus-Paalwoningen
A bizarre creation (197884) by
architect P Blom, the cube-
shaped apartments are among
the most striking buildings of
VERLENGDE
modern Rotterdam.
WILLEMSBRU
G
Willemswerf
Willemswerf is one of Witte Huis (White House)
Rotterdams highest and most This is one of the few buildings
impressive office blocks. The to survive the World War II
building, which is completely bombing raids. For a long time,
white, was completed in the 45-m (148-ft) building was
1989 and is a design by one of the tallest office blocks
architect WG Quist. in Europe.
Exploring Rotterdam
Rotterdam is not only a symbol of post-war economic
recovery it has more to offer than endless stretches of
thriving docklands and industrial areas. Rotterdam has
increasingly become one of the most important cultural
centres of the Netherlands. Although the city was a wasteland
immediately after World War II, it quickly recovered and
now boasts one of the countrys largest universities, a park
containing a number of interesting museums and a large zoo.
popular Oceanium is a theme

park showcasing sea creatures,
including sharks.
P Delfshaven
Rotterdam City Tourist Information, Canalside houses in a peaceful corner
Coolsingel 1957 Tel 010-7900185 . q of Delfshaven
Delfshaven, which is outside the
town centre and is mainly famous is the tallest building in the
for being the birthplace of naval town. Before its construction
hero Piet Hein, looks very different began, in 1960, the mayor
from the rest of Rotterdam. This at the time, Van Walsum,
oasis of both history and culture complained that there was
within the modern city consists only enough money to build a
of a few streets with historic 50 m (165 ft) tower. This caused
buildings and a harbour with an uproar, because the mast
A gorilla sitting with her young at old sailing boats. The former was meant to be higher than
Diergaarde Blijdorp warehouses are now shops the Utrecht Domtoren
selling antiques, paintings and (cathedral tower), which was,
O Blijdorp antiquarian books. There are also at 112 m (367 ft), the highest
Blijdorplaan 8. @ 40, 44. Tel 0900- museums and restaurants. building in the country. That
1857. Open 9am6pm daily. & It was from Delfshaven that same evening, the mayor was
h 7 0 = rotterdamzoo.nl the Dutch Pilgrim Fathers left called by rich Rotterdam port
Rotterdam Zoo, often called for America in 1620. barons wanting to contribute
Diergaarde Blijdorp, is in many money to the construction of
ways a unique zoo. Its predec- J Euromast the building. These donations
essor, De Rotterdamsche Parkhaven 20. q Dijkzicht. in part enabled the tower to
Diergaarde (Rotterdam zoo), Tel 010-4364811. Open AprSep: reach 110 m (361 ft). A space
was built in 1857 in the town 9:30am10pm daily; OctMar: tower was later added to the
centre. In 1937, the zoo was 10am10pm daily. & h 0 top of the building for the
moved to Blijdorp polder, euromast.nl Communicatie-70 show in
outside the centre. The architect One of the most famous 1970, bringing the tower to a
Van Ravesteyn designed the symbols of Rotterdam, Euromast total height of 185 m (607 ft).
new zoo and Blijdorp became
one of the first zoos to be
designed by one architect.
Blijdorp is also one of the few
European zoos to have its own
research department. It plays
an important part in breeding
programmes for rare and
endangered species, such as
the black-footed penguin.
For the last few years,
attempts have been made to
convert Blijdorp to the type of
zoo which tries to present the
animals in the most natural
habitat possible. Another
addition at the zoo is the gorilla
island. The huge, extremely The Rotterdam Beurstraverse, or Koopgoot, a bustling shopping mall
ROTTERDAM 237
become familiar with art and

express themselves via poetry,
theatre and visual arts.
E Het Nieuwe Instituut

Museumpark 25. Tel 010-4401200.
v 4, 5. @ 32. q Eendrachtsplein.
Open 10am5pm TueSat,
11am5pm Sun & public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
0 = hetnieuweinstituut.nl
After being bombed in 1940 and

then ravaged by fire, the old city
centre was a wasteland. Thanks
to large-scale rebuilding after the
war, Rotterdam now has many fine
Het Nieuwe Instituut
Peter Struyckens masterpiece of light effects under the Het Nieuwe Instituut examples of modern architecture.
This includes famous structures
E Kunsthal Designed by the avant-garde such as the paalwoningen (cube-
Westzeedijk 341, Museumpark. architects OMA, the building shaped apartments), and the
v 8, 20. Tel 010-4400301. Open Tue has ramps instead of stairs. spectacular developments along
Sun. Closed Mon, 27 Jan, 30 Apr, 25 the Kop van Zuid across the
Dec. & h 0 kunsthal.nl E Kinderkunsthal Nieuwe Maas. Het Nieuwe
The Kunsthal, with its austere Villa Zebra Instituut is the result of a merger
style, is used for temporary exhi- Stieltjesstraat 21. Tel 010-2411717. between the national architectural
bitions, putting up around 25 v 20, 23, 25. @ 48. q D. archives, the Premsela Institute
per year, with high art and pop Open noon5pm Wed, FriSun; for Design and Fashion and
culture going cheek by jowl. It TueSun summer hols. Closed 1 Jan, Virtueel Platform (which aims to
offers a journey through modern 27 Apr, 25, 26 & 31 Dec. & h 0 promote digital culture). The
villazebra.nl
art, fashion, photography and Instituut hosts regular exhibitions
design, featuring artists from all This is an arts centre specifically examining the influence of new
around the world. for children, where they can technologies on art and design.
Rotterdam City Centre Blijdorp

Airport
6 km (4 miles)
MA
Stadhuis
1 Kunsthal N
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(see pp2389)
NS
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500m (550 yards)

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Witte Huis
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Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen

The museum is named after two art experts, FJO Boijmans and
DG van Beuningen, who presented their own private collections
to the town. The museum thus ended up with one of the finest
collections in the Netherlands. Although it is particularly renowned
for its unique collection of old masters, the museum also represents
all aspects of art and design, from medieval works by Jan van Eyck
to imaginative exhibitions of contemporary artists work.
Three Marys at
the Tomb
(142535) Brothers
Jan and Hubert Van
Eyck collaborated on
this colourful work
depicting the tomb
of the resurrected
Christ. Acquired with
the collection of Ticket desk
D. G. van Beuningen
in 1958.
Library
Ground floor
Courtyard
Exhibition
entrance
Nautilus Cup
(c.1590) The god
Neptune sits on
top of this beautiful
piece from the
Dutch Renaissance.
Key to Floorplan
Entrance to
15th17th centuries temporary
Surrealists exhibitions
Print collection
Applied art and design
Temporary exhibitions Entrance to
Non-exhibition space permanent exhibitions
18th century1945 and Surrealists
ROTTERDAM 239
. The Pedlar VISITORS CHECKLIST

(c.1500)
Hieronymous Practical Information
Boschs painting Museumpark 1820, Rotterdam.
shows mankind Tel 010-4419400.
trying to avoid the boijmans.nl
First hazards of life. Open 11am5pm TueSun &
floor
public hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. & ^ 7 0 =
Transport
Centraal Station. @ 32.
v 7. q Eendrachtsplein.
La Petite Danseuse
(188081) Impressionist
Stairs Edgar Degas made several
studies in bronze of this
young Belgian dancer.
Auditorium
Restaurant . Titus at his Desk

(1655) Rembrandt portrayed his sickly
son in an introspective mood, bathed
in a tender light that heightens the
pallor of his brooding features. Titus
was to die aged 27.
Basement
. The Tower of Babel

(c.1568) Pieter Brueghel took
an Old Testament theme and
painted a ten-storey structure
swarming with people.
Rotterdam, City of Water

One of Rotterdams biggest and busiest attractions
is its port, one of the largest ports in the world.
Various operators organize daily tours around the
port area, where you will see container ports,
shipyards and dry docks. The sheer scale of the port
and related industrial areas, which have a turnover
of billions of euros, is quite staggering. Europes
largest container port, the Europoort alone Rotterdam
stretches for 40 km (25 miles) along the river banks. The port sees approximately 30,000
vessels docking each year. Germanys
Ruhr district is the main destination for
the transported goods.
The Port of Rotterdam
The port of Rotterdam, of which only a fraction is shown by this map, stretches
from the town centre to the North Sea coast and is divided into nine areas.
These are, from east to west, the Stadhavens, the Vierhavens, Merwehaven,
Old Delfshaven
Waalhaven, Eemhaven, Vondelingenplat, Botlek, Europoort and the Maasvlakte.
The port is still expanding and will soon run out of available space. Land
reclamation from the North Sea is considered the most appropriate solution.
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Pernis
The biggest refinery in the world,
Pernis operates day and night Dry
refining crude oil, which is used to docks
make hundreds of products. Lit up
at night, it looks like something
out of science fiction.
ROTTERDAM 241
World Port Days

There are many types of ships to be admired
Spido Tour on the World Port Days, which are held in
Various tours around the port of Rotterdam are early September and attract thousands
available. Those lasting an hour and a half visit of visitors.
the town centre ports (see map below), whereas the
day-long tours travel as far as the Maasvlakte.
Euromast
Hotel New York

This hotel has been set up in the
early 20th-century head office of
the former Holland-America Line.
The nearby arrival halls are also of
architectural significance.
ave
n Europoort
ash
Ma A total of 29,122 ocean-going vessels and 110,000
inland vessels put in at Rotterdam Port during 2015.
This makes it the busiest port in Europe. The name
Europoort says it all Rotterdam is Europes port.
Rotterdam Port is one of the major employers of the
Netherlands, with more than 300,000 people working
for it either directly or indirectly. Total added value of
the port is more than 28 billion, approximately 10 per
cent of the countrys gross domestic product.
Zuiderpark
Maastunnel filtration plant
0 Kilometres 3
0 miles 3
Key
Bustling Rotterdam port, loading and unloading many millions of
Road containers every year
Railway
St Janskerk, Gouda
This former Catholic church dating from 1485 was rebuilt in
the Gothic style after it was struck by fire in 1552. The church
received a number of unusual stained-glass windows from
rich Catholic benefactors, such as Philip II of Spain, between
1555 and 1571. After the Reformation (see pp567), the church
became Protestant, but even the fanatical Iconoclasts did
not have the heart to destroy the windows. Prominent
Protestants, including Rotterdam aldermen, donated stained-
glass windows to the church up to 1604. The stained-glass
windows are heavily symbolic of the politics of the time
Bible stories had to be covered after the conflict between
the Catholics and Protestants, which led to the Thirty Years
War between Spain and the Netherlands.
The Nave
Judith Beheading Holofernes At 123 m (404 ft), this nave is the
This is a detail from a window which depicts longest in Holland. The floor is
Judith beheading Holofernes. Dirck Crabeth, inset with memorial stones.
who made the window, shows John the
Baptist holding a lamb. Next to him
kneels Jan de Ligne, the count of
Arenberg, who commissioned
the window.
Visitors
entrance
KEY
1 The Adulteress (1601) Dressed

as a Franciscan monk, Jesus appeals
to the people in the temple to
forgive the adulteress, who is being
The Relief of
guarded by Spanish soldiers.
Leiden (1603)
2 North aisle William of Orange
3 Baptism of Jesus
as leader of the
resistance of the
4 The Purification of the Temple people of Leiden
5 South aisle against the Spanish
siege of 1574.
SOUTH HOLLAND 243
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Achter de Kerk.
Tel 0182-512684.
Open MarOct: 9am5pm
MonSat; NovFeb: 10am4pm
MonSat, 11am5pm public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. &
7 8 sintjan.com
Nieuwpoort town hall, built over the canal in 1696
q Gouda E Museum Gouda

Achter de Kerk 14. Tel 0182-
Road Map B4. * 72,000. 331000. Open 11am5pm TueSun.
n Markt 35 (0182-589110). Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr 25 Dec. &
( Thu am & Sat; phone tourist office museumgouda.nl
for information on cheese markets.
welcometogouda.com
w Reeuwijkse
In 1272, Floris V granted Gouda its Plassen
city charter. Thanks to its strategic
Road Map B4. n 0182-589110.
position on the Hollandse IJssel
and the Gouwe, the town The Reeuwijk lake district
developed into a flourishing was formed through peat
centre for beer brewing and excavation. Narrow roads pass
the textile industry in the 15th through the rectangular lakes,
century. However, Gouda became which owe their shape to for-
economically and politically mer parcels of land. The small
isolated during the Thirty Years village of Sluipwijk seems
War. The town recovered in the almost to fade away into the
17th and beginning of the 18th water. The best way to explore
The Purification of the Temple century due to its trade in cheese, this area is by bicycle or on
William of Orange donated this candles and pipes. foot. In the summer months
window, symbolizing the Gouda is still famous today for you can also take a boat trip
Netherlands longing to drive out its cheese and cheese markets. through this typically Dutch
the Spaniards, in 1567. Traders The markets are held on an lakeland scenery.
watch angrily as Jesus drives enormous three-sided square
moneylenders from the temple. around the Stadhuis, which
dates from 1450 and is one of e Nieuwpoort
the oldest in the Netherlands. Road Map B4. * 1,600. @ 90
With its many pinnacles and from Utrecht.
turrets, the building gives the
impression of being in the The whole of this magnificent
Flemish Gothic style. fortified town, which obtained
The Museum Gouda its city charter in 1283, has
(municipal museum) is in the been declared a listed area. The
former Catharina Gasthuis (St 17th-century street layout is
Catherines hospital), which practically intact. The city walls,
dates from the 14th century which are also intact, were
and later. The museum features originally built to ward off
paintings from the Hague attacks from the French but
School and unusual 16th- served mainly to protect the
century altar pieces. town against flooding. The town
hall, built over the inundation
Baptism of Jesus (1555) P Stadhuis lock, dates from 1696, while
John the Baptist baptizes Jesus in Markt 1. Tel 0182-589110. the arsenal dates from 1781.
the Jordan River. The window was Open timings vary, call to check. Restoration work was carried
a gift from the Bishop of Utrecht. Closed public hols. & 8 by appt. out in 1998.
r Gorinchem y Dordrecht
Road Map C4. * 35,000. Road Map B4. * 118,600. n
n Grote Markt 17 (0183-631525). Spuiboulevard 99 (0900-4636888). (
( Mon am. vvvgorinchem.nl Tue am, Fri & Sat. vvvdordrecht.nl
Gorinchem, situated on the Linge The oldest town in Holland,

and the Waal, was the property of Dordrecht received its city
the Lords van Arkel in the 13th charter in 1220 and was the
century. They were driven out by most important harbour and
Count William VI and the town commercial town of the region
was then absorbed into Holland. until the 1500s. Even after being
Fortifications built at the end of outstripped by Rotterdam,
the 16th century are still partially Dordrecht remained an impor-
intact and offer marvellous views tant inland port. In the old port
over the water meadows and the area, mansions, warehouses and
Waal. Of the four town gateways, Glass blower in Leerdam almshouses are reminders of
only the Dalempoort remains. the past. The Grote Kerk (13th
The Linge harbour, in the heart of t Leerdam to 17th century), in the Brabant
the town, is still mostly authentic, Gothic style, has an ornate
Road Map C4. * 20,000.
especially the narrow part. n Sundsvall 2 (0345-614960).
interior. Huis Simon van Gijn,
( Thu am, Sat pm. vvvleerdam.nl in the period rooms of an 18th-
Environs century house, has a collection
On the other side of the Waal is Leerdam is renowned for its of old prints, clothes and toys.
the 14th-century Slot Loevestein. glass industry. Royal Dutch The shady Hof (court of justice)
It has a very eventful history as a Glass Factory designs by (1512) contains the Statenzaal
toll castle, a defence point along Berlage, Copier and other (state room), where the States
the Hollandse Waterlinie (a strip artists can be admired in the of Holland met for the first
of land flooded as a defence line, Nationaal Glasmuseum time in 1572, thus laying the
see p201) and a state prison in the (national glass museum), and foundation of the independent
17th century. From Gorinchem, traditional crystal production Republic of the Netherlands.
the castle can be reached by can be observed at Royal
ferry, changing at Woudrichem. Leerdam Kristal. Fort Asperen, R Grote Kerk
on the Linge, is one of the Lange Geldersekade 2. Tel 078-614
P Slot Loevestein best-preserved defence points 4660. Open AprOct:10:30am
remaining along the Nieuwe 4:30pm TueSat, noon4pm Sun;
Poederoijen. Tel 0183-447171.
Hollandse Waterlinie (see p201). Nov & Dec: 24pm Tue, Thu & Sat.
Open May, Jun & Sep: 11am5pm
8 AprOct: 2:15pm Thu & Sat. =
TueSun; Jul & Aug: 11am5pm
grotekerk-dordrecht.nl
daily; OctApr: 11am5pm Sat & Sun. E Nationaal Glasmuseum
Closed 1 Jan, Good Friday, 27 Apr, Lingedijk 28. Tel 0345-614960. P Hof and Statenzaal
25 Dec. & - = g May, Jun & Open 10am5pm TueSat, Hof 6. Tel 078-7705250. Open 11am
Sep: TueSun; Jul & Aug: daily; Oct noon5pm Sun. & = 5pm TueSun. Closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan.
Apr: weekends. slotloevestein.nl nationaalglasmuseum.nl hethofvannederland.nl
A group of windmills at Kinderdijk, for centuries draining water from the Alblasserwaard
SOUTH HOLLAND 245
u Kinderdijk
Road Map B4. @ 90 from Rotterdam
Lombardijen station; 18 from Dordrecht
Centraal Station. n Nederwaard 1
(078-6912830). 0 kinderdijk.nl
The famous 19 windmills

which were used to drain the
Alblasserwaard in the past are
situated where the Noord and
the Lek converge. New boezems
(drainage pools) and windmills,
however, were needed time and
time again in order to span the
height differences as the land
settled. The group of windmills
is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Middelharnis Lane (c.1689) by Meindert Hobbema
i Brielle Prinsehuis, the 17th-century of the 19th century, fishing

Road Map B4. * 16,000. @ metro
lodgings of the Admiralty of remained the most important
Rotterdam CS to Spijkenisse, then 103. the Maze, the dry dock and Fort source of income.
n Markt 1 (0181-475475). ( Mon; Haerlem from the 19th century. The Late Gothic cruciform
Jul & Aug: Wed. You can learn all about fire and church (15th century) stands
fire-fighting in the local National at the heart of the village.
The magnificent port of Brielle is a Brandweermuseum (fire service Outside the town hall (1639)
protected town. The 18th-century museum). It also houses the hang the wooden blocks that
fortifications are still mostly intact. tourist information office. women branded as gossips
The town, birthplace of Admiral had to carry through the town.
van Tromp, held a strategic posi- E Nationaal Brandweermuseum
tion until the 1872 opening of the Industriehaven 8. Tel 0181-314479.
Nieuwe Waterweg (new waterway). Open AprOct: 10am4pm a Goedereede
The Historisch Museum Den Briel (from 11am Sun). 7 -
nationaalbrandweermuseum.nl Road Map A4. * 1,900. @ metro
(historic museum of Brielle) depicts Rdam CS to Spijkenisse, then 111
this and the famous Beggars of to Hellevoetsluis, then 104. ( Tue.
the Sea invasion in 1572 (see box).
The tourist information office p Middelharnis Goedereede was an important
is inside the museum. The Road Map B4. * 17,900. @ 436
port in the 14th and 15th
15th-century St.-Catharijnekerk, from Rotterdam Zuidplein. ( Wed. centuries. This town, where
in Brabant Gothic style, rises from Pope Adrianus VI was born,
the surrounding monuments. During the 16th century, began to decline when it began
Middelharnis became the to silt up. The early harbour
E Historisch Museum Den Briel regional port, outstripping houses are reminiscent of the
Markt 1. Tel 0181-475475. Open Goedereede. Until the end livelier days of old.
10am5pm TueSat, 15pm Sun.
Closed Mon, public hols. & 7
historischmuseumdenbriel.nl The Beggars of the Sea
The Beggars of the Sea were a pirate fleet which consisted
of minor Dutch and Flemish nobles who had fled at the
o Hellevoetsluis beginning of the Inquisition and sailed across the North
Road Map B4. * 40,000. @ metro Sea. They plundered other ships and caused trouble in English
Rotterdam CS to Spijkenisse, then 101. and German ports. They were forced to leave England, where
n Industriehaven 8 (0181-314479). some of their ships were berthed,
( Sat. in spring 1572. Without any clear plan,
they entered Den Briel on 1 April
At the end of the 16th century, under the command of van Lumey,
this was the naval port for the which they then held for the Prince.
States of Holland. Fleets led by Other towns joined the Beggars of
van Tromp, de Ruyter and Piet the Sea or were forcibly occupied by
Hein left from Hellevoetsluis them. Their pursuits represented the
for their naval battles in the first steps towards Dutch independence
1600s. Within the old fortifi- from Spain and the creation of Dutch
cations, visitors are reminded Van Lumey sea power.
of the towns naval past by the
ZEELAND
The tiny province of Zeeland, as its name implies, is
inextricably linked with water and the sea. For hundreds
of years, the power of the North Sea and the flooding
deltas of the Maas and Schelde rivers have shaped the
landscape, encouraging resilience in the inhabitants
and the desire to control the elements.
From earliest times, storms and floods become a haven for wildlife and a
have taken their toll here. In the last playground for lovers of watersports.
century, the devastation of two world Towns such as Middelburg, Zierikzee
wars was followed by the disastrous floods and Veere and villages such as Nisse,
and storm surges of 1953. Although St Anna-ter-Muiden and Dreischor have
there are a number of fine churches and lots of old buildings, some of which
public buildings dating as far back as the have been restored to their 17th-century
14th century, in places near the coast grandeur, with attractive features such
there are very few houses more than as bell towers and frescoes.
50 years old. As a result, determination The close relationship with water and
to keep the waters at bay has spawned the sea is well documented in a variety
massive construction and canal building, of small museums. The tangible benefits
with giant dams and land reclamation are perhaps twofold: an abundance of
schemes offering a level of security seafood for the provinces restaurants, and
that has changed the landscape forever. the aforementioned opportunities for
The storms were not all bad news. Traces watersports. Few regions in Europe offer as
of Roman settlements were uncovered, much scope for sailing, windsurfing, water
and lakes and inland waterways have skiing and diving as does little Zeeland.
The 15th-century Stadhuis (town hall) dominating the historic town of Veere
Aerial view of the beach at low tide, Domburg
Exploring Zeeland
Touring around Zeeland, you cannot ignore the sea. The journey becomes
a small adventure as you encounter bridges, dams and ferry docks.
Sometimes you will travel along a straight ribbon of a road, sometimes a Renesse
windy lane. The ever-present and often turbulent water is never the same
colour for long: it can quickly change from a grey-green reflecting the Schouwen
vivid blue sky to the white of wave crests beneath leaden skies.
Passing over one of the many dams, you will reach the next HAAMSTEDE
Wester-
island, with its own special character. Tholen, for example, is schouwen
quiet almost morose whereas Walcheren is full of
surprises and has a wonderful atmosphere. Travelling
through Zeeland is a journey of discovery. OOSTERSCHELDE
STORMVLOEDKERING
Getting Around
The best way to visit all the
islands of Zeeland is by car. The Noord-
roads here are excellent the A58 DOMBURG Beveland
or the N57 will quickly bring you
to the centre of the province, VEERE
where you can choose one of the Wa l c h e r e n
WESTKAPELLE
smaller roads to take you to your
destination. The through train will Arnemuiden
take you from Amsterdam to
Middelburg and Vlissingen in just
two and a half hours. If you want MIDDELBURG
to explore other islands, you will Oost-Souburg
Zuid-
need to continue on a regional
bus though this can be quite VLISSINGEN
time-consuming. There are many Borssele
cycle paths and it is great fun We
cycling over the dykes. ste
rs
Breskens ch
eld
CADZAND e
Sights at a Glance Zeeuws
1 Oosterschelde Stormvloed-
kering pp25051
2 Middelburg pp2523 Oostburg IJzendijke
St-Anna-
3 Veere ter-Muiden
4 Domburg SLUIS
5 Vlissingen
6 Westkapelle Aardenburg
7 Zierikzee
8 Haamstede
9 Brouwershaven
0 Bruinisse
q St Annaland
w St Maartensdijk Key
e Tholen
Motorway
r Goes
Main road
t Yerseke
y Nisse Minor road
u Hulst Scenic route
i Terneuzen Minor railway
o Sluis National border
p Cadzand Regional border
Tilting at the ring a Zeeland sport

ZEELAND 249
BROUWERSHAVEN
Serooskerke Dreischor
Duiveland
Divers at Zeelands inland lakes
BRUINISSE
ZIERIKZEE
Ouwerkerk St Philipsland
Colijnsplaat
O ST ANNALAND
os
te Tholen
Kortgene rs
ch ST MAARTENSDIJK
el
de THOLEN
GOES YERSEKE
Kapelle
Beveland
NISSE
Kruiningen
Krabbendijke
Z E E L A N D
Ellewoutsdijk
Kloosterzande
Fishing nets drying at Yerseke

TERNEUZEN Vlaanderen
Zaamslag
Axel HULST
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
The fertile black clay soil of Zeeland

1 Oosterschelde
Stormvloedkering
Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands
has been dominated by its peoples struggle against the
sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland
The Windsock
heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once When the windsock is full, a
and for all was undertaken in earnest. Now the Dutch seem warning is sounded, and people
to have minimized the threat of flooding by building are advised to avoid driving over
dykes and dams and closing off tidal inlets, all of which the dams and bridges between
the islands. Vigilance saves lives.
has had a major impact on the landscape.
Storms
Storms are a part of everyday life
in Zeeland: storms on the beach
or over the flat polders, storms
which blow the cobwebs away
and storms which make you fear
for your life.
The Fateful Night of 1953

On the night of 31 January 1953,
an event considered impossible in
modern times occurred. A combination
of spring tides and storms breached
the dykes and washed them away
as loose sand. A total of 1,835 people
lost their lives.
Deltapark Neeltje Jans

This attraction has been built on an artificial island, Neeltje Jans, on
which the piers for the Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering (storm
surge barrier) were assembled, then taken by special barges to their
positions. Now that task is finished, the island is being used mainly for
recreational and informative
purposes. At the Deltapark
you can find out about the
Delta projects and about how
the barrier works. You can see
the barrier from the inside,
and then take a boat trip to Luctor et Emergo
view it from the outside. This Latin motto meaning
There is an aquarium here, I struggle and emerge
as well as a seal show; you victorious is on Zeelands
can also experience a coat of arms, which depicts
simulated hurricane in the the Netherlands lion half in
hurricane machine. Neeltje Jans, educating visitors about the sea the water. This was wholly
appropriate for 1953.
ZEELAND 251
Concrete Piers
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The piers were
made on the
artificial island of
Road Map A45. Deltapark
Neeltje Jans and
Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
then transported
Vrouwenpolder.
by special barges
Open AprOct: 10am5:30pm
to their destination.
daily; NovMar: 10am5pm Wed,
This mighty task
Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
attracted a great
deal of attention. Transport
@ 133.
The Delta Works

The Delta Works have had far-
reaching consequences for the
landscape and environment. The
Zeeland islands, having been
joined to the mainland, are no
longer isolated.
Half-open Buttress Dam

It took 13 years and 3.6 billion (two-thirds
of the cost of the Delta Works) to build the
Oosterscheldekering. After much deliberation,
the decision was made to keep open the
estuary and to preserve the salty estuary
habitat. A half-open multiple buttress dam
was built, with 62 sliding gates, which are
closed on average once a year during heavy
storms. This keeps the water salty and has
preserved the unique salt marshes and mud
flats of the Oosterschelde.
KEY
1 Concrete piers bear the sea wall.

2 The sliding gates are closed only
when the water is high.
3 A road has been built over
the dam.
4 Ground protection prevents the
earth from being washed away.
5 The piers rest on
solid foundations.
The Terps
Man-made mounds,
such as these near Borssele,
were built in the 11th and 12th
centuries to protect farms and
villages from the water.
Street-by-Street: Middelburg
Middelburg suffered heavy Nazi bombing in 1940.
A lot of what is to be seen in the town today has been
rebuilt, including the Stadhuis (town hall) and the
abbey. The town is still redolent with the atmosphere
of the Golden Age, an era during which the Dutch East
India Company thrived in the port area along the quay. . St-Jorisdoelen
This doelen, the guardsmens
Middelburg is a pretty town and there is plenty to be guild building, was built in
seen on a walk around the centre. Children will be 1582 and destroyed in 1940;
kept busy by Mini Mundi. the faade was rebuilt in 1969.
Zeeuws Archief, the archives of

the province, are now housed in a
AT
historic monument, the van de Perre RA
ST
R
House on the Hofplen, which has
BALA
A
been given a spectacular new wing.
N
E
G
A
NS
W
Key
Recommended route
IN
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L
P
F
O
H
KOR TE BURG
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LANGE
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UW
NIE
MARK T
. Stadhuis
The 15th-century town hall was The fish market
completely destroyed by fire in already existed in 1559.
1940 and has been partially rebuilt. The passageway, with
A 20th-century extension can be its Tuscan pillars, dates
seen on the northern side. from 1830.
MIDDELBURG 253
Mini Mundi
This miniature
VISITORS CHECKLIST
town, started in
1954, now contains
Road Map A5. * 47,500.
more than 350
minimundi.nl
buildings, and
uitinmiddelburg.nl
forms part of
n Markt 51. Tel 0118674300.
the Mini Mundi
Open MonSat. & 7
amusement park.
( Thu, Sat. Stadhuis: Markt.
8 from Stadhuis (tickets are
available from Markt 51).
Transport
@
SI
N
T
P
IN
IE
TE
E
L
R
P
S
M
T
R
A
A
D
A
T
. Abbey
Many years of restoration work on
the abbey have finally paid off.
DELFT
N
E
KOR TE
D
R N
E RE
D
N TO
O
Lange Jan
Translated as
Long John, this
91-m (300-ft) high
tower belongs to
the Nieuwe Kerk
in the abbey
complex. It has an
FT
IN
octagonal plan
E
EL
L
and dates from

P
D
L
the 14th century.

A
E
W
G
N
A
L
S
IN
T
London Quay
JA
The names of the quays reflect the goods that

N
were being exported from and imported to the

S
S
Netherlands during the Golden Age (see pp545).

T
R
A
A
T
Zeeuws Museum VISITORS CHECKLIST
Middelburg Abbey dates back to 1100, when it was Practical Information

inhabited by Norbertine monks from the monastery of Zeeuws Museum, Abdij 34.
Road Map A5. Tel 0118-653000.
St Michiel of Antwerp. These very powerful monks were Open 11am5pm TueSun.
driven away in 1574 by William of Orange, after which the Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
abbey was secularized. The renovated Zeeuws Museum zeeuwsmuseum.nl
is situated in the wing of the building that was once the
monks quarters. The completely redesigned interior presents
the museums fine collections of china, silver, paintings
and its famous tapestries in a completely new light.
Altar of Nehalennia
The altars found near
Domburg in the 17th
Museum Guide century were consecrated
to the indigenous goddess
The Zeeuws Museum is located in one of the
Nehalennia,who was
oldest wings of the abbey. It is a provincial worshipped by
museum with various different sections, the Romans.
including History, Fashion, Chamber of
Wonders and the famous Tapestry
Room. There are also temporary
exhibitions that cover a wide
variety of subjects.
Key to Floorplan
Art and History
Chamber of Wonders
Fashion Costume Collection
The museum has a collection of jewellery, accessories
Temporary Exhibitions and costumes, here displayed with video made for the
Non-Exhibition Space museum by contemporary artists.
ZEELAND 255
3 Veere
Road Map A5. * 1,500. @
n Grote Markt 5 (0118-435858).
vvvzeeland.nl
Past and present merge in

Veere. Modern pleasure boats
moor along the quay opposite
the Gothic faades of Het
Lammetje (the lamb) (1539)
and De Struijs (the ostrich)
(1561). These Schotse Huizen
(Scottish houses) serve as a
reminder of the time that the
port was important for its
trade in precious Scottish wool.
Other monuments to Veeres
illustrious past are the Stadhuis
(1474), the Campveerse Toren,
a tower dating to around Pleasure boats moored at the marina in Vlissingen
1500, and the OL-Vrouwekerk
(Church of Our Lady), dating 5 Vlissingen
from the 15th16th centuries. Road Map A5. * 43,200. @
E Amusement Park Het Arsenaal
This enormous church, once Arsenaalplein 7. Tel 0118-415400.
n Spuistraat 46 (0118-715320). ( Fri.
almost demolished, is now Open check website for opening
used as a venue for baroque, Vlissingen is a bustling town. The times. Closed 25 Dec. & 7
classical and contemporary main thrust behind the economy arsenaal.com
music concerts. of this, the largest town in Zeeland, E Reptielenzoo Iguana
are the ports in Vlissingen itself, as Bellamypark 35. Tel 0118-417219.
well as those of the industrial area Open JunSep: 10am5:30pm Tue
4 Domburg Vlissingen-Oost and scheepswerf Sat, 15:30pm Sun & Mon; OctMay:
De Schelde (De Schelde shipyard). 15:30pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
Road Map A5. * 1,600. @
Vlissingen has always been of & iguana.nl
n Schuitvlotstraat 32 (0118-583484).
great military significance. The
Domburg was one of the first wartime activity this attracted
seaside resorts in the Netherlands. meant that the town could not 6 Westkapelle
In the 19th century, this little town escape the consequences. One of Road Map A5. * 2,800. @ n
5on Walcheren was popular the few remaining buildings from Zuidstraat 154 (0118-570700). ( Fri.
among prominent Europeans, the time of Michiel de Ruyter to
who came here to relax and have withstood the ravages of the The most impressive sight in
recuperate in the chic seaside years is the Arsenaal, dating from Westkapelle is its sea wall, the
hotels on the dunes. It has now 1649. A second arsenal from 1823 history of which is fascinating.
given way to mass tourism. is now the Amusement Park Het In former times, this town lay
Arsenaal (see p426), which is securely behind the dunes, but
Environs especially interesting for children. these were washed away in the
An inland lake lies hidden The reptiles and insects show- 15th century. This meant that
between dunes, woods and the cased at Reptielenzoo Iguana, the access route to the island
Oostkapelle polder. The pretty which is housed in two adjoining shifted. A dyke was built, which
nature reserve De Manteling is 18th-century mansions, offer a was completed in 1458. The
worth visiting, as is Westhove different type of attraction. lighthouse, once a church, also
castle, which was the Abbot dates from this time. The dyke
of Middelburgs country house was bombed by the Allies in
until the 16th century. It now order to flood Walcheren so
houses a youth hostel. Terra it could be liberated. At the
Maris, Zeelands natural Polderhuis visitors can learn
landscape museum, is in the more about Westkapelles his-
castles former orangery. tory, including the wartime years.
E Terra Maris E Polderhuis Dijk en

Duinvlietweg 6. Tel 0118-582620. Oorlogsmuseum
Open MayOct: 10am5pm daily; Zuidstraat 154. Tel 0118-570700.
NovApr: noon5pm WedFri, Open AprOct: daily; NovMar:
noon4pm Sat & Sun. - = Exterior faade of the chic Badhtel WedSun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 31 Dec.
&-=
terramaris.nl in Domburg
nearby Slot Haamstede, a castle

dating from the 13th century,
is surrounded by a park with
pleasant walks.
+ Slot Haamstede
Haamstede, near church.
Open grounds only; castle closed
to public.
Environs
Westerschouwen, 5 km (3 miles)
southwest of Haamstede, has
an impressive landscape and
illustrious past. The dunes lie
on the western edge, barren
with a scattering of gorse in
places, in others covered with
coniferous forest.
The medieval Zuidhavenpoort in Zierikzee You can climb to the top of
Plompetoren, the tower of the
7 Zierikzee against Charles the Bold, is now-submerged Koudekerke,
Road Map A4. * 11,100. @
re-enacted each summer. which rises from the salt marshes.
n Nieuwe Haven 7 (0111-410940). On the edge of the dunes is
( Thu. E Stadhuismuseum Slot Moermond.
Meelstraat 6. Tel 0111-454464. Open
With 568 listed houses, Zierikzee 11am5pm TueSat (JulAug: Mon E Plompe Toren
ranks eighth in the list of Sat), 15pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, Corner of Plompetorenweg & Koudek-
Dutch historic towns. The 25 Dec. stadhuismuseum.nl erkseweg. Open 10am6pm daily.
impressive city gateways can
be seen from afar. The many Environs
terraces on the Havenplein A museum in Ouwerkerk is
offer a marvellous view of the two devoted to the floods of 1953.
harbour entrances and ornate
mansion houses on Oude E Museum Watersnood 1953
Haven (old harbour), and the Weg van de Buitenlandse Pers 5.
trickle of the Gouwe, the Tel 0111-644382. Open AprOct:
creek that brought trading 10am5pm daily; NovMar:
prosperity to Zierikzee. The Gothic noon4pm TueSun. &
Gravensteen (15246), watersnoodmuseum.nl
once the home of the Count of
Holland, now houses a fair- Isolated Plompe Toren of the
trade shop. 8 Haamstede now-submerged Koudekerke
The Zierikzee skyline shows Road Map A4. * 3,800. @ n
the still unfinished Dikke Toren Noordstraat 45a (0111-450524). ( Thu.
(great tower), construction of 9 Brouwershaven
which began in 1454. At 130 m Haamstede is a peaceful town Road Map A4. * 1,400. @ ( Mon.
(425 ft), it must have been the built around a church. The
highest point of the colossal Quiet Brouwershaven combines
12th-century St-Lievenskerk, a historic centre with a modern
which burnt to the ground port. The Havenkanaal to the
in 1832. marina and the Stadhuis date
Strolling through the narrow from 1599. The 14th-century
streets along the new and St-Nicolaaskerk (Church of
old harbours, you will chance St Nicholas) is a monument to
upon passageways that past glory. The town prospered
offer glimpses of old faades, again as an outport to Rotterdam
such as of the 14th-century until the Nieuwe Waterweg (new
De Haene house, or the waterway) was built in 1870.
former Stadhuis (155054),
now the Stadhuismuseum. E Brouws Museum
One of the most famous Haven Zuidzijde 1415. Tel 0111-
historic events in Holland, Slot Haamstede, painstakingly restored 691342. Open 15pm MonFri.
the revolt of Zierikzee in 1472 in the 1960s = & brouwsmuseum.nl
ZEELAND 257
of the tomb of Floris van

Borssele (who died in 1422) and
his wife are still to be seen in a
burial chapel of the slender
14th- to 15th-century church.
Much of the original carving
and fragments of the old
paintings have been preserved.
The foundations and moat of
the van Borssele castle, which
was demolished in 1820, can
still be found outside the town.
The most impressive part of
the town itself is the Markt, with
its 16th-century houses and
elegant Stadhuis.
Brouwershaven, now a focus for water recreation

e Tholen
0 Bruinisse of the madder plant and Road Map B5. * 6,100. @
Road Map B4. * 3,000. @ n VVV
processing of its root into a red n see St Maartensdijk.
Zierikzee (0111-410940). ( Wed. dye was, until the 19th century,
one of the main livelihoods of Tholen is a Zeeland town with
Bruinisse is now mainly a centre the region. It was brought to an a Brabant flavour. Two buildings
for watersports. The modern end in 1868 by the invention of dominate the town the
bungalow park Aqua Delta is artificial dyes. marvellous Stadhuis (1452),
situated outside the old village with its robust battlements,
next to the marina. E Streekmuseum De Meestoof and the ornate OL-Vrouwekerk
Bierensstraat 68. Tel 0166-652901. (Church of Our Lady), dating
Environs Open AprOct: 25pm TueSat. & from the 14th to 16th
To get an idea of what this demeestoof.nl centuries. The kapel van
countryside looked like in het St-Laurensgasthuis
earlier times, visit the ringdorp (St Laurensgasthuis chapel),
(circle-shaped village) w St Maartensdijk which has been rebuilt into
Dreischor, 10 km (6 miles) Road Map B5. * 3,300. @
a residential home, stands
west of Bruinisse. It has a n Markt 1 (0166-663771). opposite the church. Even
typical village church and though Tholen became a
town hall. On the edge of the St Maartensdijk has been the fortified town in the 16th
village is Goemanszorg, an capital of Tholen since 1971. century, it has retained its old
agricultural museum devoted This town has much to remind character. Gothic faades are
to farming past and present. us of its patrons, the powerful everywhere to remind us of
Lords van Borssele. The remains its former prosperity.
E Goemanszorg
Molenweg 3, Dreischor. Tel 0111-
402303. Open EasterOct: 11am5pm
TueSun & public hols. & 7 -
goemanszorg.nl
q St Annaland
Road Map B5. * 3,000. @ n see
St Maartensdijk.
Tholen is the least well- known

island of Zeeland. Here there is
a constantly changing scenery
of poplars and pollard willows,
fields and quiet towns, such as
St Annaland, with its picturesque
harbour on the Krabbenkreek.
Streekmuseum De Meestoof
(regional madder museum) is an
interesting reminder of Zeelands
industrial past. The cultivation Pumping station in a rural setting in the neighbourhood of Tholen
r Goes
Road Map A5. * 24,000. @
n Singelstraat 13 (0113-235990).
( Tue, Sat.
Some of the historical towns

of Zeeland are charming yet
sleepy, but Goes is wide-awake.
Every Tuesday there is an old-
fashioned market featuring
fabrics and groceries which
takes place on a square full Imposing heraldic ornament on Goes Raadhuis
of Zeeland atmosphere, the
Grote Markt. The Raadhuis a tradition of oyster farming Zuid-Beveland, lost in 1530 along
(town hall), dating from and mussel fishing that has with Reimerswaal, at the time
1463 (rebuilt between 1771 continued until the present day. the third-largest Zeeland town.
and 1775), stands at the front The nature reserve Yerseke
of the square, representing Moer, to the west of the village,
the magistrates power with shows how the island used to y Nisse
all its bulk and loftiness. look: a desolate patchwork of
Road Map A5. * 580. @
The rococo interior with its inlets, hamlets, rough pasture n see Goes.
grisailles and stucco ceiling lands, coves, peat moors and
is particularly attractive. The water holes. To the east of Yerseke Nisse is a typical Beveland
majestic St-Maria-Magdalenakerk lies the submerged land of village with square, ford and
(Church of Mary Magdalen) church. The church is worth a
(15th to 16th century) rises visit; though it does not look like
up behind the town hall. much from the outside, inside
The cruciform basilica has you will be surprised by unique,
been restored. 15th-century frescoes depicting
the saints, scenes from the life
of Mary and the coats of arms of
t Yerseke the Lords van Borssele. Carvings
Road Map A5. * 6,100. @
on the choir vault and stalls are
n Kerkplein 1 (0113-571864). ( Fri. also from the 15th century.
As they say in Zuid-Beveland, R Hervormde kerk

De een zijn dood de ander zijn Key available from church secretary
brood (One mans meat is Tel (0113-649780). Open JulAug:
another mans poison). Yerseke 1:305pm Sat. 8 for groups only
came to be situated on the (call to book). mariakerk-nisse.nl
Oosterschelde following the
St-Felixstormvloed (St Felix A fishing boat in Yerseke bringing home Environs
storm flood) of 1530. So began the catch The Zak van Zuid-Beveland,
south of the railway line to
Middelburg, is characteristic for
Oyster Farming its balance between nature and
Oysters apparently have all sorts of beneficial side effects, improved culture. The landscape is a
virility being the most well known. Whether this is true or not, this succession of polders, divided
slippery delicacy makes any meal seem festive. Oyster farming by dykes covered with flowers
began in 1870 when suitable parts of the river bed were no longer or sheep grazing.
available for free fishing and were transferred to private use. Oyster
farming flourished along the Oosterschelde, particularly in Yerseke,
but the oysters were vulnerable to disease and harsh winters. u Hulst
Concern that oyster
farming would be Road Map B5. * 10,800. @ n
impossible when the Steenstraat 37 (0114-315221). ( Mon.
Grevelingen was changed
from an open estuary to
Cross over the Westerschelde
a lake after the comple- and you are simultaneously in
tion of the Delta Works Flanders and in the Netherlands.
(see pp25051) has so far St-Willibrordus-basiliek
proved unfounded the (St Willibrordus basilica) towers
oysters already are less above the town from afar.
Oysters, a tasty delicacy prone to disease. Generations of Keldermans, a
Mechelen building family, have
ZEELAND 259
worked on this church. One

unusual feature in Hulst is the
trio of hostels, once safe houses
for the monks from the Flemish
abbeys Ten Duinen, Baudelo
and Cambron.
Nearby is the former village
of Hulsterloo, famous from the
medieval epic Reynard the Fox.
i Terneuzen
Road Map A5. * 24,500. @
n Noordstraat 62 (0115-760122).
( Wed, Fri.
Terneuzen has an important

port. The mighty sea locks in
the Kanaal van Gent naar
Terneuzen (Gent-Terneuzen
canal), built between 1825 and Gentse Poort, the gateway to the Flemish-tinged town of Hulst
1827, are also impressive. The
town has industrial areas to the powerful towns in Flanders. p Cadzand
north and nature reserves to This can still be seen from Road Map A5. * 800.
the west (de Braakman) and the St-Baafskerk, a flawless n Boulevard de Wielingen 44d
east (Otheense Kreek). 13th-century example of the (0117-391298). ( Jul & Aug: Mon pm.
Scheldt Gothic style famous
for its painted sarcophagi. The The modern seaside resort
o Sluis Gemeentelijk Archeologisch Cadzand is particularly popular
Road Map A5. * 2,100. @ n
Museum Aardenburg for its wide stretch of sand. A
Groote Markt 1 (0117-461700). ( Fri. (Aardenburg municipal common pursuit here is to
archaeological museum) search for fossilized sharks teeth.
The Zeeland-Flanders landscape deals solely with the Romans. Along the dunes are dignified
is scarred by the effects of seaside hotels reminiscent of
floods and the dykes built to E Gemeentelijk Archeologisch those of Domburg. A little way
deal with them. Both polders Museum Aardenburg past Cadzand is the Zwin nature
and inner dykes bear witness to Marktstraat 18. Tel 0117-492888. reserve, which extends as far
the constant struggle with the Open MaySep: 10am5pm TueFri, as Knokke in Belgium. The
sea. The liberation of Zeeland- 15pm SatSun. Closed OctMar. & resort of Nieuwvliet lies to
Flanders in 1944 was also hard- 8 museumaardenburg.nl the east of Cadzand.
fought, devastating towns and
villages such as Sluis. The
14th-century Stadhuis, with its
belfry, the only one existing in
the Netherlands, was restored
in its former style after 1945,
including the bell tower with
the statue, which has the
nickname Jantje van Sluis.
Environs
St-Anna-ter-Muiden, 2 km
(1.5 miles) to the west of Sluis,
is a village beloved by artists.
Once prosperous, the town now
has just a few houses around
the square, with a village pump
and the stump of a tower. To
the south is the oldest town
in Zeeland: Aardenburg. The
Romans built a fort here in the
2nd century to ward off Saxon
pirates. Aardenburg later
became one of the most The broad sandy beaches of Cadzand, always popular in summer
NORTHERN
AND EASTERN
NETHERLANDS
Northern and Eastern

Netherlands 262267
The West Frisian Islands 268279
Groningen 280293
Friesland 294305
Drenthe 306315
Overijssel 316325
Flevoland 326333
Gelderland 334349
262 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Northern and Eastern

Netherlands at a Glance
The Northern and Eastern Netherlands are more sparsely
populated than other areas. They encompass the West
Frisian Islands (Waddeneilanden) and the provinces of
Groningen, Friesland, Drenthe, Overijssel, Flevoland
and Gelderland. Agriculture and trade have always
played a predominant role here. This part WEST FRISIAN
ISLANDS
of Holland has many natural and (see pp26879)
recreation areas, such as the Waddenzee
mud flats, Frisian coast, coastal
Lauwersmeergebied, Hondsrug, Leeuwarden
Harlingen
Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe,
Sallandse Heuvelrug and the
Oostvaardersplassen. Den Burg FRIESLAND
(see pp294305)
Bolsward
Sneek
Heerenveen
Lemmer
Emmeloord
The waddengebied (see pp2723) De Elfstedentocht

provides a habitat for many species of (see pp2989), a long-distance
birds. It is an important area for both ice-skating race, was held 15
resident and migrating birds. The worms, times during the last century.
molluscs and crustaceans are an ideal Over 16,000 skaters have Dronten
Lelystad
source of food for ducks, seagulls and skated the Tocht der Tochten,
wading birds. a 200-km (124-mile) stretch. FLEVOLAND
(see pp32633)
Almere Nunspeet
0 metres 20
0 yards 20 Zeewolde
Ermelo
Nijkerk
The Batavia (see p331)

was owned by the Dutch
East India Company.
This three-master was Ede
45 m (148 ft) long and
had room for 350 men.
A replica of the Batavia
was built between 1985
and 1995 at the Batavia- Tiel
Werf (Batavia wharf ) in
Nijmegen
Lelystad, which is now
working on a replica of Zaltbommel
Michiel de Ruyters
17th-century flagship,
De Zeven Provincin.
The picturesque outline of the fortified city of Doesburg, Gelderland
INTRODUCING THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 263
Uithuizen
Groninger Museum (see pp2889),

Delfzijl
Winsum designed by Alessandro Mendini, has
Dokkum a large collection of archaeological
pieces and works of art.
GRONINGEN
Groningen (see pp28093)
Haren Winschoten
Drachten Veendam
Zuidlaren
Oosterwolde Assen
Wolvega Megaliths (see pp31011) were built

DRENTHE some 5,000 years ago by the
(see pp30615) Neolithic Beaker Folk. There are 54
Emmen megaliths almost all of them
are to be found in Drenthe.
Hoogeveen
Meppel
Coevorden
Kampen
Ommen
Zwolle
OVERIJSSEL
(see pp31625)
Raalte
Almelo
Nijverdal Giethoorn (see pp3223), a village in
the Kop van Overijssel, consists of
Hengelo
farmhouse-style buildings along the
Deventer canal. The village is surrounded by
Enschede woods and lakes, which is why it has
been called the Green Venice.
Apeldoorn
Lochem Haaksbergen
Zutphen
Paleis Het Loo
GELDERLAND (Het Loo Palace)
(see pp33449) The building now
housing the National
Doesburg
Arnhem Winterswijk
Museum (see pp3389)
was constructed in 1692
as a hunting palace
for the stadtholder
William III. The palaces
chief architect was
Jacob Roman; both the
interior and gardens
were designed by
Danil Marot.
Environmental Policy
In the 1990s, the Dutch government drew up the Natuurbeleidsplan, a
programme designed to make nature reserves accessible to the public.
This is of great importance to the northern and eastern Netherlands, with
their many lakes, woods and polders. The regions ecosystem has been WEST FRISIAN
divided into core areas, development areas and connecting zones in an ISLANDS
attempt to give permanence to the natural environment. The connecting VLIELAND
zones join the areas together. When the policy is fully implemented, it
will aid in the survival of many plant and animal species.
TEXEL
Key
Core area
Natural development area
Existing or planned
connecting zone
NORTH
Existing or planned connecting
zone to crossborder nature reserve HOLLAND
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
AMSTERDAM
The Waterleidingduinen (water
supply dunes) are only partly Haarlem
open to the public.
The osprey was a rare sight

in Holland for many years. The Hague
Thanks to the Natuurbeleids Utrecht
plan, sightings of this bird SOUTH
UTRECHT
of prey have become HOLLAND
more frequent in Rotterdam
recent years.
Special road signs have been ZEELAND 's-Hertogenbosch

designed to warn
motorists of migrating
toads during that
animals mating
season. Usually shy, Middelburg NORTH
toads come out
en masse when
mating.
B
Read the Signs! Antwerp E L
G I
Most natural areas (or parts of them) in the U M
northern and eastern Netherlands are freely
The adder is the only
accessible. However, some parts are open only
venomous snake in
from sunrise (zonsopkomst) to sunset
Holland and is very rare
(zonsondergang), and it is therefore important to
here. However, this
read the signs. It goes without saying that you
small, distinctive snake
should not make excessive noise, cause damage or
can still be found in
leave litter in the area. Further information is
sandy regions and peat
available at VVV offices, the ANWB and the
moors. In order to feed
Vereniging Natuurmonumenten (tel. 0356559933).
properly, adders require
an extensive habitat.
SCHIERMONNIKOOG
AMELAND
TERSCHELLING GRONINGEN
FRIESLAND
Groningen
Leeuwarden The otter was extinct in Holland for
many years, but has recently
been reintroduced and is
beginning to flourish.
Assen
The golden
plover, a rare
DRENTHE wading bird which
has been put under
pressure by the
reclamation of peat
Lelystad bogs and
heathland, is the
FLEVO-
OVERIJSSEL object of a special
LAND
Zwolle plan that will
enable it to recover
its numbers in
the Netherlands.
Enschede
GELDERLAND
Connecting
zones in
Flevoland
Arnhem linking various
natural areas are
now being set up for,
among others, the common frog, the
polecat, the European water shrew, the
Y
pond bat, the grass snake and the

beaver. Specific corridors are being
N
developed for butterflies.

A
M
R
BRABANT
E
G
Eindhoven
LIMBURG
Connections between core areas and

The common hamster and development areas in some cases consist
other protected animals of ecoducts. The vegetated passages
Maastricht cause headaches for atop the tunnels are designed to allow
developers. The Nature wildlife access to either side of the road,
Protection Act prevents thereby linking two areas of great
building on or the use of importance for flora and fauna without
Aachen areas they inhabit. exposing them to road hazards.
Distinctive Landscapes
The northeast of the Netherlands has a number of
distinctive landscape types, such as the unique mud
flats, or Waddenzee, where the sand and clay is
exposed at low tide; the peat moors in southeast
Groningen; the enchanting heathland of Drenthe;
the endless polder landscape of Flevoland; the
splendid forests of Gelderland (Hoge Veluwe and
The Oostvaardersplassen (lakes),
Posbank) and the magnificent riverscapes and between Lelystad and Almere, make
seascapes in the northeast of Overijssel. up a unique natural landscape. It is a
breeding ground and feeding area for
hundreds of species of birds.
Glasswort is
a wild plant
which grows
in mud flats
and on silt
deposits. It is
a prized
culinary
delicacy.
West Frisian Islands

The Waddenzee (see pp2745) is an area of mud flats which is
largely dry at low tide. It attracts many species of birds that
come here to forage and to feed. The island of Texel features
the peat walls of the Hoge Berg.
Water crowfoot occurs in both

flowing and standing water.
Rapeseed
plantations are
used for land
improvements
in new polders.
The yellow
fields seem
to stretch
endlessly to
the horizon.
Bulrushes
were once
common in
the region.
The cigars
Polder Landscape
grow only by
fresh water Forests (het Knarbos), lakes (the Oostvaardersplassen) and
and are now coastal lakes (the Veluwemeer) punctuate the flat polder
protected. landscape of the new province of Flevoland (see pp32633).
INTRODUCING THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 267
Common
polypody
occurs in
juniper brush
and in
woodlands
on poor
sandy soil.
Bracken fern grows in sparse

Boletus edulis is a delicious woodland on lime and nutrient-
edible mushroom. Picking it, poor sand and loamy ground,
however, is no longer allowed. and on dried peat moors.
Mosses thrive in humid

environments such as
forest floors. Shady areas
with acidic soil are ideal
for sphagnum moss.
The
cranberry
grows in
sphagnum
moss on
peat moors
and in fens.
Forests
One of the best-known and largest forest areas in the
Common
Netherlands is at Hoge Veluwe in the province of Gelderland
sundew, an
(see pp33449), where a variety of animals, such as wild boar
insect-eating
and red deer, are to be found. plant, grows
on heathland
and in the
fenland of
Groningen
and Drenthe.
Cross-
leaved
heath
thrives on
nutrient-
poor, dry,
sandy soil
and in the
troughs of
dunes.
Heather occurs
mainly in sand
Heathland and peat bogs,
typically
The northeastern Netherlands abounds with poor in
delightful heathland. Some of the most picturesque nutrients.
heathland can be found at Drenthe (see pp30615);
herds of sheep still graze in the region of Ellertsveld.
THE WEST FRISIAN

ISLANDS
Perhaps the least known part of the Netherlands despite
their natural beauty, the West Frisian Islands form a
barrier protecting the north of the country from the
turbulent waters of the North Sea. Comprising five
main islands and a few sandbanks, they are among
Europes last areas of wilderness.
The West Frisian Islands are the remaining still stand. Later, the islands prospered from
fragments of an ancient sandbank that links with the Dutch East India Company
once stretched from Cap Gris Nez in France and, in the 19th century, from whaling.
to Esbjerg in Denmark, a remnant of the Vlieland and Ameland are quieter islands,
last Ice Age. Since Roman times the sea has good for bird-watching. Schiermonnikoog
been eroding this sandbank, creating the is the most isolated, with rare plant life.
shallow Waddenzee behind and washing Nowadays the islands, reached by ferries
away much of the peat soil that lay beyond from the mainland, have much to offer
the dunes. The islands of Griend and the visitor in search of peace and quiet,
Rottumeroog were threatened to such with nature rambles over dunes and salt
an extent that they were abandoned. marsh, and seal- and bird-watching,
Rottumerplatt, too, is uninhabited. especially in summer. The islands quaint
Monks established the first settlements museums are strong on ecology and
as far back as the 8th century; islanders conservation. The best way to get around
made a living from farming, fishing is by bicycle, and visitors will find a wide
and collecting shellfish. On Texel and range of hotels and guesthouses, excellent
Terschelling, the two largest islands, seafood restaurants, and some of the best
churches dating from the 15th century sunsets anywhere.
Former captains house (commandeurhuisje) on Ameland

Traditional cargo ships sail down the Waddenzee at dusk
Exploring the West Frisian Islands

The history of the West Frisian Islands (Waddeneilanden) has
been shaped by the wind and the sea. It was not until the 17th
century that the larger islands were stabilized by dykes. Den
Burg on Texel, the largest village on the islands, is a historic
fortification with a pleasant old centre. Nearby is Hoge Berg,
with its characteristic peat walls; in the west, the distinctive
tower of Den Hoorn can be seen. To the north is the unique
natural area of De Slufter. The crown of the Frisian Islands,
Vlieland, has the prettiest village of the islands. Terschelling,
Ameland and Schiermonnikoog are typical Frisian islands, with
wide beaches, partly forested dunes, villages and polders or
mud flats on the Waddenzee side. Shrimp fishermen sorting their catch
Sights at a Glance
1 Noorderhaaks 9 Ameland
2 Den Burg 0 Schiermonnikoog
3 De Koog q Rottumerplaat
4 De Slufter w Rottumeroog
5 Den Hoorn
6 Vlieland
7 Griend
8 Terschelling
Hollum
Bird-watching in the Mookbai, Texel TERSCHELLING Oosterend
Hoorn
West Midsland
Oost-Vlieland
Richel
GRIEND
VLIELAND
e
e
De Cocksdorp z Harlingen
n
e
DE SLUFTER
d
d
Te x e l
a
W
DE KOOG
Oosterend
DEN BURG
Oudeschild
DEN HOORN
NOORDER- Den Helder

HAAKS
The Koegelwieck seacat (West Terschelling)

THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS 271
Getting Around
The West Frisian Islands are reached by ferries from
the mainland. Texel is served by TESO (tel. 0222-
369600). Foot passengers can take a bus to De Koog
or De Cocksdorp via Den Burg, or order a taxi-bus
when buying their ticket. Vlieland is served by
Rederij Doeksen (tel. 0900-3635736); cars not
permitted. On arrival, a bus takes passengers to
Posthuis, where there are taxis. Terschelling is served
by Rederij Doeksen (0900-3635736); reservations
recommended for cars. There is a bus service on the
island, and taxis are available on arrival. Ameland is
served by Rederij Wagenborg (tel. 085-4011008);
reservations recommended. There are bus services
to all villages. Schiermonnikoog is served by Rederij
Wagenborg (tel. 085-4011008); foot passengers only.
Bus service and taxi-buses connect the dock and
village. Bicycles can be hired easily.
De Wadden the mud flats are ideal for beach walks
ROTTUMERPLAAT
ROTTUMEROOG
SCHIERMONNIKOOG
Schiermonnikoog
AMELAND
Buren
Nes
ee
enz
Lauwersoog
d
W ad
Holwerd
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
Rescued seals being returned to the wild by members

of EcoMare, Texel (see p427)
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
The splendid coastline of Vlieland
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3989 and p412
Birds of the Waddenzee

The extensive wetlands of the Waddenzee are an
important area for breeding and migratory birds. The
North Sea coasts of the islands are sandy, with little
animal life; the Waddenzee coasts of the islands,
however, consist of fine sand and clay which are rich
in minerals and nutrients. The innumerable worms, Curlew
This is the largest European
molluscs and crustaceans that live here are an ideal wading bird and is easily
source of food for a huge variety of ducks, seagulls and recognizable by its long,
wading birds. At the peak of the migratory season curved beak.
(August), the number of birds here runs into millions.
Bird-watching
Hide
There are many
hides for bird-
watchers on the
mud flats of the
Waddenzee,
allowing the birds
to be observed
without being
disturbed.
Bird Catchers
Bird catchers, whose interests in the Netherlands have
gone far beyond mere hunting, have become an
important pressure group for the protection of birds
and the natural environment. Their organization is
Vogelbescherming Nederland, based in Zeist.
Beak Shapes
People are often surprised at the many varieties of birds that feed on the mud flats. The different
species, however, have managed to avoid competing with one another. The various shapes and
lengths of their beaks are suitable for the assorted types of food that can be found in the water and
in the sand. Ducks get their food from the surface or dive for it, whereas wading birds get their food
from underground what prey at which depth underground depends on the shape of the beak.
Other birds catch fish (spoonbills, cormorants or terns), shellfish (eider ducks) or even other seabirds
(the white-tailed eagle), or steal their food from other birds.
The curlew, with

The black-tailed
The silver The its curved sharp
The ringed godwit feeds on
oystercatcher beak, can reach
plover feeds The lapwing plover worms living
catches pulls shellfish invertebrates
from the feeds on underground.
out of the sand. living deep in
surface. small crabs in small
sea-worms. the sand.
the mud.
Arctic Tern
This extremely rare bird,
which breeds in the West
Frisian Islands, spends
the winter in the
Antarctic. This gives Sandwich Tern
it the longest This bird has its largest
migratory path Oystercatcher
breeding colony in The oystercatcher is
of all birds. Holland on Griend. Its characteristic of the
dwindling numbers Waddenzee. It forages for
means it requires careful cockles and mussels.
protection.
Bird Species
The wealth of bird species including diving
birds, petrels, cormorants, spoonbills, ducks,
birds of prey, waders, scavengers, seagulls,
terns, razorbills and songbirds that occur in
the Waddenzee is a good reason to ensure
that the area is carefully protected. For many
of the birds, these are the only breeding
grounds in the Netherlands, as they are the
only wetlands remaining in the Netherlands.
Various parts are closed to visitors, and it is
important to observe the regulations in
order to help preserve the bird population.
Avocet
This
magnificent
wading bird
has an upward-
curving bill and
black and
white plumage.
Large numbers of
oystercatchers can be seen
both in winter and in summer.
Black-Tailed Godwit
This wading bird, with fiery
red-brown plumage, is a Eider Duck
bird of passage but spends Ringed Plover The eider duck has breeding
the winters and summers This is an active bird that rarely colonies on Texel, Vlieland and
in the Waddenzee. breeds here but passes Terschelling. The male is far more
through in large numbers. impressive in appearance than
the brown-coloured female.
Red Knot
This bird of passage
Herring Gull stops over sometimes
The herring gull is in summer and
just one of the many sometimes in winter.
varieties of gull that occur here. It is a robust bird,
At more than half a metre (1.5 ft) one that is always
long, it is an impressive bird. on the move.
The Waddenzee
The Waddenzee is a tidal area whose sand or mud
flats (wadden) are mainly exposed at low tide and
disappear at high tide. Together with the West Frisian
Islands, the Waddenzee forms the last extensive wild
part of Holland. The entire area has an extremely
rich ecosystem because of the large sources of
nourishment. It is a feeding and breeding ground
for many species of birds. Two species of seal, 30
species of fish, shrimps and crabs live in the
Cockles (Cardium edule), which
Waddenzee or come here to breed.
form the diet for many bird
species, are intensively harvested
using mechanical methods. The
catch is exported.
The VVVs (tourist

offices) on the West
Frisian Islands offer all
kinds of sailing trips
around the islands,
including romantic
luxury cruises on a
three-master. Rederij
Vooruit (tel. 0515-
531485) arranges
sailing trips on
local boats.
Sea Lavender
(Limonium vulgare),
along with sea purslane
and sea aster, grows in
the higher parts of the
salt marshes. Fields of
blue-violet sea lavender
flowers make a very
pretty sight.
Exposed Sections of the Mud Flats

Much of the Waddenzee mud flats is exposed
during low tide. This leaves places like the marina,
pictured below, high and dry. Mooring places that
are inaccessible at low tide are increasingly being
dredged as marinas.
Low tide High tide

Flora in the Waddenzee Lavender (Salicornia

europaea) is one of the first
Because of the diversity of the plants to colonize the mud
Waddenzee landscape, with its flats and the low-lying parts
changing environment (salt water of the salt marshes. When
and fresh water, lime-rich soil and the land has silted up
lime-poor soil, wet land and dry land, completely, the salt marsh
clay ground and sandy ground), grass establishes itself.
almost 900 plant species grow here.
Many of them grow on the island-side
of the old dunes in the dune valleys.
Amongst the flowers to be found
here are autumn gentian and
creeping willow, as well as grasses
and weeds such as black bog-rush,
fragrant orchid and grass of Parnassus.
Lavender is among the plants which
grow on the higher ground.
Cracks in the dried silt provide a good foothold

for lavender, as well as for other plants.
Threats to the Waddenzee

According to the Dutch oil company NAM,
there are between 70 and 170 billion cubic
metres (2,500 and 6,000 billion cubic feet)
of natural gas beneath the Waddenzee. The
value of this gas runs into many billions of
euros. The Waddenzee Society is completely
opposed to any gas drilling in the Waddenzee
on several grounds: first, because there is no
social need for it and second, because the
environmental effects of drilling in
particular, the consequences the falling
ground level would have on life in the
Waddenzee have not been properly
investigated. For the time being, therefore,
drilling on the Waddenzee is banned,
pending further environmental impact
studies. But the Waddenzee is also threatened
by the harvesting of mussels and cockles.
Since 1992, the Dutch government has scaled
this back, and is considering closing the area
to the shellfish industry.
Wadlopen (walking the Mud Flats)
A walk on the Waddenzee takes you through salt
marshes and past the wantij, a place below an
island where two tidal flows meet. Since the
mid-1970s, walking on the mud flats has been a
popular hobby. There are now a number of major
mud-flat walking societies, including Dijkstras
Wadlooptochten (Pieterburen, tel. 0595-528345);
Lammert Kwant (Ezinge, tel. 050-5792414);
Stichting Uithuizer Wad (only for Rottumeroog; tel.
0511-522271), Stichting Wadloopcentrum Friesland
(Holwerd, tel. 0519-242100) and Stichting
Wadloopcentrum Pieterburen (tel. 0595-528300). Cockle harvesting
E Oudheidkamer
Kogerstraat 1, Den Burg.
Tel 0222-313135. Open 1 Apr31 Oct:
11am5pm MonFri, 24pm Sat.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Whitsun, 25, 26 &
31 Dec, public hols. &
Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now
1 Noorderhaaks Kogerstraat runs the length

Road Map B2. * none. n Emmalaan
of the Binnenburg. Located Beachcomber on Texel, the most populated
66, Den Burg (0222-314741). here is the Oudheidkamer, of the Frisian Islands
an antiquities museum set up
Noorderhaaks, also known as in a picturesque 16th-century
Razende Bol (raging ball), is a building, which used to be a 3 De Koog
fairly bleak sandbank west of doss-house. Today it contains Road Map B2. * 1300. g @
Den Helder, 2.5 km (1.5 miles) period rooms, a display of n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg
offshore. The sea currents cause artifacts and works of art (0222314741). ( JulAug: Tue.
the island to shift eastwards in the attic, and a herb garden.
towards Texel, after which Along and around the town In 1900, the former fishing
another raging ball appears at wall are several interesting settlement of De Koog consisted
the same point off Den Helder. shopping streets, such as the of a church (built in 1415) and
The Dutch air force occasionally Weverstraat. A number of a few houses and farms. The first
uses the island for target practice, excellent restaurants are to be tourist facility was the Badhotel,
but it is not off-limits for visitors. found on the Warmoesstraat. later the Hotel Prinses Juliana,
Rowing and swimming here with a garden overlooking
are risky because of the powerful Environs the sea. Today, De Koog has
currents. Adventure-seekers South of Den Burg is a sloping accommodation for 20,000
regularly visit Noorderhaaks landscape with the 15 m (50 ft) visitors in hotels, pensions and
by boat or by helicopter, Hoge Berg (high mountain), camp sites. The centre of De
unable to resist this piece of which offers a great view of the Koog is the Dorpsstraat,
total wilderness, where mirages island. For a good walk, follow which has cafs, snack bars
are common. the Skillepaadje from the tomb and discos. De Koogs attractions
of the Georgiers (resistance for visitors are the Calluna
fighters who died fighting the waterpark and EcoMare,
2 Den Burg Germans in 1945) to the fishing an information centre for
Road Map B2. * 6,000. g @
village of Oudeschild, past the the Waddenzee and the
n Emmalaan 66 (0222-314741). peat walls and sheep pens. North Sea (see p427).
( Mon am; JulAug: Wed.
Den Burg is the main town of

Texel and situated right in its
centre. Around 1300, the village
was fortified by a circular
rampart with a moat, which are
now marked by the Burgwal
and Parkstraat Streets. A sheep
market was once held in April
and May at the Groeneplats,
Den Burgs main square, with the
present-day town hall. Today, a
sheep day is held on the first
Monday of September. Further
on, by the Binnenburg, or inner
castle, stands the 15th-century
Late Gothic Hervormde kerk
(Protestant church). The The Nederlands-Hervormde church in Den Burg (1481)
4 De Slufter
Road Map B2. * none. g @
Open all year, northern part closed
1 Mar1 Sep. n Emmalaan 66, Den
Burg (0222-314741).
The distinctive natural area of

De Slufter, consisting of salt
marshes covering 450 ha
(1,100 acres), is covered with
salt-loving plants such as sea
thrift and sea lavender, and is
an important breeding and
feeding ground for many
different bird species. De Slufter,
and the neighbouring De Muy,
where spoonbills breed, are
magnificent rambling areas.
5 Den Hoorn
Road Map B2. * 450. g @
n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg (0222-
314741). ( JulAug: Thu.
Like Den Burg, Den Hoorn

stands on boulder clay. It has a
distinctive Hervormde kerk
(Protestant church) with a Salt-loving plants thriving at the waters edge, De Slufter
pointed steeple and church-
yard dating from 1425. This Unlike the other islands, Vlieland 19th-century paintings. The
exquisitely restored village has consists only of dunes, covered houses are separated by alleys
been given protected status. with a purple haze of heather, known as gloppen. There is no
marram grass and sea buckthorn. room for cars here, not even for
In the east, the woods planted those of the islanders.
6 Vlieland just after 1900 provide a bit of The best way to explore
Road Map C1. * 1,000. g
variety in the landscape. Vlieland is by bicycle; the island
n Havenweg 10, Oost-Vlieland In the south is the only village, can be covered in one day. From
(0562-451111). Oost-Vlieland, where the boat Oost-Vlieland, you can cycle
from Harlingen docks. Many old westwards along tracks through
Vlieland is the smallest of the buildings line the main street. the dunes or along the Wadde-
Waddenzee Islands. In some One of them, the Tromps Huys nzee shoreline to the Posthuys
places, less than one kilometre (1576), used to belong to the (post house), where in the 17th
(half a mile) separates the Amsterdam Admiralty. Today it century the overseas mail was
Waddenzee and the North Sea. houses a museum with brought from Amsterdam to be
loaded onto ships waiting to sail.
Further westwards is de Vliehors,
an area of natural interest which
can be explored if no military
exercises are taking place here.
Beware of getting stuck in the
soft drifting sand. This is also
where the wealthy village of
West-Vlieland once stood. It was
consumed by the waves after it
was abandoned in 1736.
E Tromps Huys
Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
10am5pm TueFri, 25pm Sat, 24pm
Sun; outside school hols: 25pm Tue
Thu, 10am1pm Fri, 25pm Sat.
The village hall in Oost-Vlieland Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &
olden days cattle with intriguing names such as

were let out to graze Hee, Horp and Kaart, which date
everywhere (oerol). back to when the Frisians
This is where the settled on the islands. The
Oerol Festival, held hamlet with the kerkhof van
each year in June, Striep cemetery is where the
gets its name. first church on the island was
In Formerum, West, built, in the 10th century. Its
and Hoorn, the dunes outline is still visible. Further
have been planted eastwards is Hoorn, with
with coniferous and 13th-century Gothic-
deciduous woods. In Romanesque St Janskerk
the south are polders, standing on the site of the
and beyond the dykes original church.
are the salt marshes.
There is a nature E Museum t Behouden Huys
reserve at either end Commandeurstraat 32, West-
of the island: the Terschelling. Tel 0562-442389.
Noordvaarder in the Open AprOct: 10am5pm TueFri,
west, and the 15pm Sat & Sun; NovMar: 15pm
Boschplaat in the Wed, Sat & Sun.&
east. If you happen to E Centrum voor Natuur
be sailing over from en Landschap
The Oerol Festival on Terschelling Harlingen at low tide Burg. Reedekerstraat 11, West-
on a sunny day, you Terschelling. Tel 0562-442390.
7 Griend may see seals basking in the Open AprOct: 9am5pm daily;
sun on the de Richel and Jacobs NovMar: 11am5pm Tue, Sat &
Road Map C1. * none. 8 very Sun. & 7
limited. n Vereniging Natuur- Ruggen sandbanks.
monumenten (035-6559933). West is a real mud-flat village,
with old houses and a famous
Half-way through the boat trip lighthouse, the Brandaris, 9 Ameland
from Harlingen to Terschelling dating from 1594. It is closed to Road Map C/D1. * 3,500. g @
or Vlieland, one will come visitors, but the same view can n Bureweg 2, Nes (0519-546546).
across Griend. The island be enjoyed from the high dune vvvameland.nl
was abandoned by its known as the Seinpaalduin
inhabitants after the behind the village. Het The dunes in the north of this
St Lucias flood of 1287. Behouden Huys is a local island are dry, with the
For centuries it seemed history museum dedicated exception of Het Oerd, a wet
about to disappear to famous islanders such as valley in the east which is a
beneath the Willem Barentsz; there is bird reserve. The region is best
waves. In 1988, the also the educational explored by bicycle; there is
Natuurmonumenten trust, Centrum voor Natuur en a cycle track to a scenic spot
which has leased Griend Landschap, where you can on a 24-m (79-ft) dune. In the
since 1916, had a dam learn about the ecology mud flats in the south there
built to prevent further Tombstone of the mud flats. are four villages. The largest
erosion. At high tide, the from Striep The two largest villages of these is Nes, where the
highest part of the island is in the west are Midsland boat from Holwerd calls.
just 1 m (3 ft) above the water. and Hoorn. Midsland is Commandeurshuizen
Access to Griend is forbidden, surrounded by small hamlets (commodores houses)
save for a handful of bird
wardens and biology students.
This is Hollands largest breed-
ing ground for great tern.
8 Terschelling
Road Map C1. * 4,900. g @
n Willem Barentszkade 19a, West-
Terschelling (0562-443000).
Terschelling is the second-

largest of the West Frisian
Islands. The north of the island
consists of dunes, where in the Het Oerd the edge of the mud flats on Ameland
A horse-drawn lifeboat, the pride of Ameland
in the old centre recall the days Balg, Kobbeduinen and the salt metres in height and an
when many islanders made marshes) in particular make for impressive salt marsh are its
their living from whaling. wonderful walking areas, with characteristic features. The
If you want to see the real their varied flora (including many island also belongs to the
Ameland, you must visit Hollum. orchids) and bird life. No cars at seals and birds.
The Zuiderlaan and Oosterlaan all are allowed on the island.
are steeped in the atmosphere
of past times. At the southern w Rottumeroog
end of the village is the church, q Rottumerplaat Road Map D1. * none. 8 very
surrounded by an oval cemetery limited. n Waddenkust Noord-
Road Map D1. * none.
with tombstones where the n Waddenkust Noord-Groningen, Groningen, Uithuizen (0595-434051).
deeply pious inscriptions are Uithuizen (0595-434051).
overgrown with lichen. This most eastern of the West
Beyond Hollum lies the Nature has been left to her Frisian Islands is due to disappear
Reddingsmuseum Abraham own devices with the 900 ha into the mouth of the Ems soon.
Fock, a museum dedicated to (2,225 acre) uninhabited island Since 1991 it has been left in the
life-saving, where the pride of of Rottumerplaat. This protected hands of nature. Attempts over
Ameland, a lifeboat launched by nature reserve is jointly many years to prevent it from
horses, is kept operational. managed by the Ministry of drifting eastwards were
Agriculture, Waterways and unsuccessful. In 1998, the
E Reddingsmuseum Planning, and the Friends of northern dunes collapsed, after
Abraham Fock Rottumeroog and Rottumerplaat which the last traces of human
Oranjeweg 18, Hollum. Tel 0519 Society (SVRR). Outsiders are settlement were removed by the
542737. Open AprNov: 10am5pm rarely admitted to the island. state forestry commission. The
MonFri, 1:305pm Sat & Sun. & 7 This has had a good effect on island is now less than 300 ha
Rottumeroog as well as on (740 acres) in size and shrinks
Rottumerplaat, which has been with each storm. Walkers are
0 Schiermonnikoog expanding quickly. Dunes many prohibited in the area.
Road Map D1. * 900. g @
n Reeweg 5, Schiermonnikoog
(0519-531233).
Schiermonnikoog, or Lytje Pole

(small land), was a farm
belonging to Cistercian monks
during the Middle Ages. The
village of Schiermonnikoog,
which is named after them, has
many exquisitely restored
houses. The island as a whole is
a national park and under the
protection of Natuurmonumenten.
The beach of Schier is one
of the widest in Europe. The
eastern side of the island (Het The uninhabited island of Rottumerplaat, with its high dunes
GRONINGEN
The Netherlands northernmost province is distinguished
by its rich cultural history and unusual landscape, where
you often see terps or small areas of elevated land.
To the north and west it is bounded by the shallow
Waddenzee, and to the east by the Ems river estuary
and the border with Germany.
The terps originated centuries ago, when Bourtange, which is right on the border
the inhabitants of this region needed to with Germany. Conservation areas
protect themselves from high water levels. abound. Close to Lauwersoog, where you
The elevated land is sometimes crowned can catch a ferry to Schiermonnikoog,
by a solitary Romanesque church, visible one of the West Frisian Islands (see p279),
for miles across the fens. Elsewhere in the a vast nature reserve has been estab
province you will see straight roads and lished. Nearby Pieterburen has a
canals, often evidence of reclaimed land. seal sanctuary.
The region grew rich during the Middle Groningen, the provincial capital, is
Ages from agriculture and peat extraction, proud of its glorious past and boasts a
and the medieval port of Appingedam, wealth of worldclass museums, historic
nowadays a little town inland from the buildings and other attractions. A
port of Delfzijl, was once a member of the number of Dutch corporations have their
powerful Hanseatic League. headquarters in this thriving university
Groningen province is also noted for its city, and a further boost to the economy
windmills, castles and moated manor arrived in the 1960s after the discovery in
houses and, in the east, for its restored nearby Slochteren of some of the worlds
fortified towns, such as picturesque largest natural gas deposits.
Hay bales in Westerwolde, near the old fortified town of Bourtange

Fair by the Martinitoren in Groningen, Netherlands
Exploring Groningen
Some of the countrys most attractive and historically interesting
castles, or borgs, are in the Groningen region: the medieval
Fraeylemaborg in Slochteren, Menkemaborg in Uithuizen and
the charming Verhildersum in Leens. The natural area around the
Lauwersmeer is particularly suitable for rambling. Not far from here,
in Pieterburen, is a famous refuge for seals. Ter Apel, which is on Wensum, one of the prettiest villages
the provinces eastern boundary, is a magnificent in Groningen
medieval monastery. Groningen itself (see pp2849) e
nze
has much to offer, including the peaceful dde
Wa
Prinsenhof, with its beautiful gardens, and the
ultra-modern Groninger Museum (see
pp2889), which houses collections that LAUWERSOOG
PIETERBUREN Warffum
range from archaeology to oriental
Lau w
porcelain to modern art.

Wehe den Hoorn
er s
ee Leens
m
r
ZOUTKAMP
Winsum
Reitdiep
Bedum
Grijpskerk
rghka naal
rkenbo Zuidhorn Zuidwolde
Van Sta
The Lauwersmeer nature reserve, created through the
draining of the Lauwerszee
GRONINGEN
GROOTEGAST
Getting Around Haren
Groningen can be reached from the south Paterswoldse
LEEK Meer
along the A28 motorway; the A7 crosses
the province from Friesland in the west Marum
to Germany in the east. The best way to
see the town of Groningen is on foot.
From Groningen there are rail links to
Roodeschool in the north, Delfzijl in the
northeast and to Nieuweschans in the
east. Most of the countryside is accessible
by regional (interlokal) or local (buurt)
buses. The Groningen region is well suited
to cycling and rambling, especially the
area around the Lauwersmeer, the
mud-flat region (waddengebied) and
Westerwolde, in the south.
Sights at a Glance
1 Groningen pp2849 0 Fraeylemaborg
2 Grootegast q Winschoten
3 Leek w Veendam
4 Zoutkamp e Bourtange
5 Lauwersoog r Oude and Nieuwe Pekela
6 Pieterburen t Ter Apel
7 Uithuizen
8 Appingedam
9 Slochteren Recreation possibilities on the Paterswoldse Meer,
south of Groningen
GRONINGEN 283
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Eemshaven The canalside kitchens of Appingedam

Roodeschool
Eems
UITHUIZEN
Spijk
Loppersum
Delfzijl
APPINGEDAM
Termunten Farmhouse in Beerta, east Groningen
al
na
ka
ms Dollard
Ee
Ten Boer
Nieuwolda
GRONINGEN Siddeburen
FRAEYLEMABORG Midwolda
SLOCHTEREN
Nieuweschans
Scheemda
Hoogezand-Sappemeer Heiligerlee
WINSCHOTEN
Zuidlaardermeer
Bellingwolde
VEENDAM OUDE PEKELA
Wildervank NIEUWE PEKELA
Westerwolde
St
Onstwedde
ad
Vlagtwedde
sk
an
aa
l
Key Stadskanaal
BOURTANGE
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route Musselkanaal
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
International border TER APEL
1 Street-by-Street: Groningen
The town of Groningen has for centuries been the cultural
and historical capital of the province. Its glory was at its
height in the 15th century, when the town was freed from
the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Utrecht and was able to
extend its influence into the present-day province of TURFSINGEL
Friesland. In 1614, the Groninger Academie was founded,
T U R F S T R A AT
which was the precursor of the Rijksuniversiteit. Thus, in
addition to being a centre of trade and government, the
town also became an academic centre.
SIN
. Prinsenhof
T W
In the gardens of the
Prinsenhof, where in
ALB
1568 the first Bishop of
Groningen, and later the
UR
stadholder, resided, stands
GS
a magnificent sundial
TR.
from 1730. The garden
is laid out as it was in the
18th century.
MA
RT
INI
. Martinitoren
KE
The 97-m (318-ft) Martinitoren
(St Martin tower) dating from RK
HO
1496 is called The Old Grey by F
the locals because of the colour
of the Bentheim sandstone.
Stadhuis
The Stadhuis on
the Grote Markt is
a monumental Neo-
Classical building,
The Martinikerk (St Martins Church) dates back completed in 1810.
to the 13th century, though only parts of the
original basilica are preserved. The Romanesque
church was extensively remodelled in Gothic
style in the 1400s.
Goudkantoor
This 1635 Renaissance
building on the Waagplein
was known as the
Goudkantoor (gold
depository) in the
19th century, when it
functioned as a treasury.
It now houses an inn.
GRONINGEN 285
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map D1. * 177,000.
n Grote Markt 25 (050-
3139741). ( TueSat.
_ Flower fair: Good Friday;
Bevrijdingsfestival (Liberation
festival): 5 May; funfairs: May;
Groningen holiday: 28 Aug.
Transport
Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.
Key
SI Recommended route
NG
EL
AT
ST
RA
A
TR
AT
SS
N
JA
T
N
SI
KER
S
C
H
O
KH
O
L
S
OF
T
R
T
A
A
A
A
I
T
R
IN
T
S
T
N
R
E
A
K
M
P
O
P
T
A
G A
R R
O T
S
T E
E L
M E
O
A P Ome Loeks horse, a statue by Jan de
R
K
T Baat in front of the train station,
illustrates a famous local folksong, Ome
Loeks horse is dead. Pikeur Loeks
(Lucas) van Hemmen (18761955)
The Poelestraat is
wanted to shoo away his horse and so
lined with cafs
stabbed it with his pitchfork. The animal
and restaurants.
got an infection and later died.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
. St Geertruidshofje
This inn on Peperstraat, founded in
1405 as a hostel for poor pilgrims, has
two courtyards. The first is bounded
by the convent church, refectory and
wardens chambers; guest rooms
surround the second.
Exploring Groningen
The city of Groningen has a number of interesting
buildings and museums, among them the Noordelijk
Scheepvaartmuseum (northern maritime museum)
which illustrates the history of navigation. The Groninger
Museum (see pp2889) possesses an art collection of
international stature. A visit to one of the gardens of
Groningen will provide peace in the middle of the The distinctive Gasunie building, known locally as
bustling university city. the monkey cliff
R Martinikerk and octaves and 49 bells. The designed by the Alberts

Martinitoren Martinikerk (St Martins Church), and Van Huur architects on
Martinikerkhof 3. Tel 050-3111277. dating from the 13th century, the principles of organic
Open Easter11 Nov: noon5pm still retains traces of the original architecture, the inspiration of
Sat; JunAug & two Sats in Sep: building: both the northern and which lies with natural forms.
noon5pm TueSat. 8 1:30pm. southern faades of the transept The organic nature of the
Martinitoren Grote Markt. Tel 050- and the ornamental brickwork building can be seen at every
3135713. Open AprOct: 11am5pm of the windows and window turn, even in the specially
MonSat; NovMar: noon4pm
niches of the northern side are designed furniture. The locals
MonSat; Jul & Aug: 11am4pm Sun.
recognizably 13th century. nickname for the building is the
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
During the 15th century, when apenrots (monkey cliff ).
The Grote Markt is the old city the city was at the height of its
centre. Many of the buildings development, the church was Y St Geertruidshofje
standing on the square were extended in Gothic style. The Peperstraat 22. Tel 050-3124082.
badly damaged by air raids choir, which features sumptuous Groningen has a number of
near the end of World War II. murals from 1530 illustrating pretty hofjes, or courtyards
When it was rebuilt, the market the life of Christ, had been surrounded by almshouses, often
was enlarged on the northern completed before 1425. The belonging to inns. They were
and eastern sides, and new central part of the church once charitable institutions
buildings of a modern became a hall-type church. whose aim was to help the poor.
character were added. East of the Grote Markt is the The finest of these is the complex
The famous Martinitoren Poelestraat, which on fine days of the 13th-century Heilige
(St Martin tower) was also comes to life with outdoor cafs Geestgasthuis, or Pelstergasthuis
damaged but still standing, and restaurants. (in the Pelsterstraat), and St
and it was possible to rebuild Geertruidshofje (see p285),
it. The carillon of dOlle Grieze P Gebouw van de Gasunie whose Pepergasthuis inn was
(The Old Grey), whose bells Concourslaan 17. Tel 050-5219111. established in 1405. It later
were cast by the Hemony Closed to the public. became a senior citizens home.
brothers, has since been The main office of the Dutch The pump in the courtyard
enlarged and now has four Gasunie (gas board) was dates from 1829.
The Poelestraat: a favourite haunt for the students of Groningen

GRONINGEN 287
E Noordelijk
Scheepvaartmuseum
Brugstraat 2426. Tel 050-3122202.
Open 10am5pm TueSat, 15pm
Sun & hols. Closed public hols. &
This maritime museum,
arranged over two restored
medieval houses, deals with
the history of navigation in the
northern provinces from 1650
to the present. Exhibits are
arranged in chronological
order, from the Utrecht ships,
Hanseatic cogs, West Indies The magnificent Prinsenhof, formerly the stadholders residence
merchantmen, peat barges
and Baltic merchant ships to oasis in the midst of the busy several different greenhouses
Groningen coasters from the city. Its highlights include a dedicated to a wide array of
20th century. A number of herb garden and a rose garden. climatic zones. There is a tropical
historical workshops, such as a There is also a flowerbed that rainforest with a great variety of
carpenters shop and a smithy, is arranged into two coats of exotic flowers. A subtropical
are held in the attic of arms, one with the letter hothouse numbers orange trees
the museum. The W (for William Frederick, among its plants. The various
museum also has the stadholder of climatic areas continue with a
an excellent Friesland), the other desert section. Here, gigantic
programme of with a letter A (for cacti are showcased. Another
temporary Albertine Agnes, greenhouse featuring a mon-
exhibitions, Decorative element from the Williams wife). soon climate contains unusual
featuring all Provinciehuis of Groningen At the side of the carnivorous plants. In the
things marine. entrance is a fine tropical culture greenhouse,
sundial (see p284) which dates you can admire a traditional
Y Prinsenhof and back to 1730. The course of Indonesian sawah (ricefield).
Prinsenhoftuin the old city walls of Groningen The Chinese garden (Het
Martinikerkhof 23. Tel 050-3176555. is still clearly discernible in verborgen rijk van Ming, or The
Open 9amnoon daily. the Prinsenhoftuin. hidden Ming Empire) is well
The Prinsenhof originally worth a visit. It is a faithful recon-
housed the monastic order of E Hortus Haren struction of a real garden owned
the Broeders des Gemenen Kerklaan 34, Haren. Tel 050-5370053. by a 16th-century high-ranking
Levens. It later became the Open 9:30am5pm daily. Chinese official of the Ming
seat of the first Bishop of Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 - 0 Dynasty (13681644). It features
Groningen, Johann Knijff, who Immediately south of the original Chinese pagodas, which
had the entire complex city is the fashionable town have been painstakingly restored
converted into a magnificent of Haren, where an extensive by Chinese craftsmen into fine
bishops palace. Until late into park, Hortus Haren, is situated. pavilions and then beautifully
the 18th century, the building The park was set up in 1642 decorated with carvings of lions
served as the residence of the by Henricus Munting. Its 20 ha and dragons. Het verborgen rijk
stadholder. The Prinsenhoftuin (50 acres) include a large hot- van Ming also has a waterfall and
(Prinsenhof Gardens) is truly an house complex comprising a tea house where visitors can
enjoy Chinese refreshments.
Another interesting theme
garden is the Ogham Gardens,
a Celtic garden whose main
attractions is the Horoscope of
Trees, consisting of an earth-
and-stone circular wall, which
is a replica of the enclosures
the ancient Celts built to live
within. Inside the circle is a
labyrinth representing life; at its
centre is a small garden and the
Well of Wisdom.
In summer, a variety of exhib-
itions and events are held in the
grounds, attracting locals and
The fascinating Hortus Haren, with its innumerable attractions tourists alike.
Groninger Museum
Between the central station and the
inner city lies the Groninger Museum,
standing on an island in the 19th-
century Verbindingskanaal. Designed
by internationally renowned Italian
architect Alessandro Mendini and
opened in 1994, the museum showcases
archaeology and history, applied arts
(including a remarkable collection of
Chinese and Japanese porcelain), early . Spiral Staircase
The spiral staircase, which visitors have to
art and cutting-edge modern art. descend to see the exhibits, is the museums
main meeting point and a work of art in itself.
Curtains
The applied arts section,
which includes oriental
porcelain, is divided by
winding curtains.
The museum shop

sells reproductions of
the exhibits and books
about the artists who
are represented in
the museum.
KEY
1 The museum caf features is also a direct connection with 5 This wing of the museum
furniture by various designers the station and the town centre. was designed by Wolfgang Prix
and Helmut Swiczinsky.
and was set up as an addition 3 Temporary exhibitions
to the museum collection. 6 A large concrete staircase
4 The Mendini Pavilion is easily in the spectacular Mendini
2 A cycle and pedestrian distinguished by its apparent Pavilion leads to the upper
bridge connects the museum haphazardness and chaos, and is a pavilion, where some of the
with the station square. There good example of deconstructivism. collection of art is on display.
GRONINGEN 289
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Museumeiland 1.
Tel 050-3666555.
Open 10am5pm TueSun
(also Jul & Aug: 15pm Mon).
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 5 May, 25 Dec.
& - Open 9:30am4:30pm
TueSun. Closed same as above.
Rembrandt
This ink drawing of Saskia in Bed by Rembrandt
can sometimes be seen in the Mendini Pavilion.
. De Ploeg
The Groningen art
collective De Ploeg has its
own pavilion. In addition
to works by the group, the
section also displays works
by other Expressionists
from northern Europe. The
picture Rotating Door of the
Post Office is by De Ploeg
painter HN Werkman.
Museum Guide
Groninger Museum was designed by
Alessandro Mendini (born 1931). He based the
design around the collections of the museum,
which consisted of archaeology, applied arts
and early and modern pictorial arts. The focus
Bridge in the Coop of the building is the 30-m (98-ft)
Himmelb(l)au Pavilion tower in the middle.
2 Grootegast
Road Map D1. * 11,500. @ 33,
38, 39, 98, 101, 133. n Nienoord 20,
Leek (0594-512100). ( Fri.
The little town of Lutjegast,

close to Grootegast, is the
birthplace of the 17th-century
explorer Abel Tasman (see box).
The Abel Tasmankabinet
houses an interesting
exhibition about his life.
The collection includes old
sea charts and books.
E Abel Tasmankabinet
Kompasstraat 1. Tel 0594-613576.
Open 1:304:30pm TueSat.
3 Leek
Road Map D2. * 18,000. @ 81, 85,
The harbour of the delightful fishing village of Zoutkamp
88, 98, 306, 316. n Nienoord 20
(0594-512100). ( Thu. In 1846, the then owner, 4 Zoutkamp
Ferdinand Folef Kniphausen, Road Map: D1. * 1,200. @ 63, 65,
In the small town of Leek nicknamed the mad squire, 69, 136, 163, 165. n Reitdiepskade 11
stands the castle of Nienoord, burned all the family portraits (0595-401957).
built in approximately 1524 by in a drunken fit. Later, the
Wigbold van Ewsum. During orangery and part of the upper The small fishing village of
the 19th century, things at floor were destroyed by fire. Zoutkamp changed its character
the castle seemed to be In 1950, the municipality dramatically after the damming
taking a turn for the worse. bought the castle. Eight of the Lauwerszee in 1969. By the
years later, the Nationaal waterside (Reitdiepskade) there
Rijtuigmuseum, featuring are still a number of fishermens
horse-drawn vehicles, was cottages retaining the erstwhile
established here. It contains charm of the village.
a unique collection of royal
coaches, gigs, mail coaches
and hackney carriages. 5 Lauwersoog
E Nationaal Rijtuigmuseum Road Map D1. * 350. @ 50, 63, 163.
n Reitdiepskade 11, Zoutkamp
Nienoord 1. Tel 0594-512260.
(0595-401957).
Open AprOct: 11am5pm,
Landgoed Nienoord TueSun. Closed Mon. & 7 At Lauwersoog, from where the
ferry leaves for Schiermonnikoog
(see p279), is the Lauwersmeer,
Abel Tasman (160359) a 2,000-ha (4,940-acre) nature
Abel Janszoon Tasman was born in Lutjegast in 1603 but lived in reserve. When the Lauwerszee
Amsterdam from an early age. In 1633, as a navigating officer for the was drained, the land was
Dutch East India Company (see pp523), he travelled to Asia. In 1642, he designated for four purposes:
sailed on the yacht De Heemskerck and then with agriculture, recreation, a
the cargo ship Zeehaen in search of the nature reserve and an army
legendary southern continent. Tasman charted training area.
some of the coast and later reached New
Zealands South Island. On 13 June 1643, he Environs
arrived in Batavia (now Jakarta), which he Lauwersoog is a good
called home until his death 16 years later. base from which to explore
From 1644 to 1648, he sat on the Batavian the tuff churches that, in
council of justice; during this time he also the Middle Ages, were built
joined trading missions to Sumatra in villages such as Doezum,
(1646) and Siam (1647). Tasman died on Bedum and Zuidwolde.
10 October 1659, having bequeathed They can be recognized
his money to the poor of Lutjegast. by their grey or green
porous stone.
GRONINGEN 291
6 Pieterburen
Road Map D1. * 500. @ 65, 67, 68.
n Waddencentrum, Hoofdstraat 83
(0595-528522).
One of the best-known places in

Groningen is Pieterburen, home
to the Zeehondencrche. This
seal nursery was founded by
Lenie t Hart and others as a
reception centre for sick and
disabled seals from the nearby
Waddenzee, where some 1,750
seals live. Half of these owe their
lives to care they received here.
The Waddencentrum, also
located here, is an exhibition
centre dedicated to the mud
flats of the Waddenzee. It also Recovering seal in one of the ponds at Pieterburen
provides useful information for
people wishing to walk there. used as a venue for exhibitions, features a ceremonial bed-
while the Schathuis (treasury) is stead dating from the early
O Zeehondencrche Pieterburen now a lively caf and restaurant. 18th century, when King
Hoofdstraat 94a. Tel 0595-526526. William III stayed here. The
Open 10am5pm daily. P Borg Verhildersum kitchen in the cellar has all the
} Het Waddencentrum Wierde 40, Leens. Tel 0595-571430. old fittings. The gardens were
Open AprOct: 10:30am5pm laid out during restoration
Hoofdstraat 83. Tel 0595-528522.
TueSun. & work in the 18th century. The
Open 9am6pm daily. -
Schathuis (treasury), formerly
Environs used to store the food brought
In Leens, 10 km (6 miles) to the 7 Uithuizen by the townspeople to the
southwest of Pieterburen, is castle, currently houses a caf
Road Map E1. * 5,300. @ 41, 61,
the stunning 14th-century 62, 641, 662. n Mennonietenkerk- and restaurant.
borg (moated manor house) straat 13 (0595-434051). ( Sat.
Verhildersum, which contains P Menkemaborg
19th-century furnishings. The The exceptionally pretty castle Menkemaweg 2. @ 61. Tel 0595-
castle is surrounded by a wide of Menkemaborg in Uithuizen 431970. Open MarJun & Sep:
moat. Its gardens include an dates back to the 14th century. 10am5pm TueSun; JulAug:
arbour and sculptures. The It acquired its present-day form 10am5pm daily; OctDec: 10am
castles coach house is regularly around 1700. The bedroom 4pm TueSun. Closed JanFeb. &
Wedding in traditional dress in the gardens of the 14th-century Menkemaborg in Uithuizen

8 Appingedam
Road Map E1. * 12,400. @ 40, 45,
78, 140, 178. n Oude Kerkstraat 1
(0596-620300). ( Sat.
This town, a member of the

Hanseatic League in the Middle
Ages, was granted its charter in
1327. Standing at a junction of
waterways as it once did and
with a seaport, it quickly grew
into a major international
trading city. The medieval layout
of the city has remained largely
unchanged. The hanging
kitchens, visible from the
Vlinterbrug bridge, were built
this way to create more space Steam pumping station (1878) at the Winschoten polder, now a museum
in the houses. Directly over the
P Fraeylemaborg
water are doors from which environs are excellent for walking
Hoofdweg 3032, Slochteren.
people drew water for their or cycling, particularly around
Tel 0598-421568. Open 2 Jan31 Dec:
household needs. places like nearby Schildmeer.
10am5pm TueFri, 15pm Sat, Sun &
In the 18th century, the public hols. &
town again prospered, as the
Ebenhazerhuis well illustrates. 0 Fraeylemaborg
Appingendam, with over Road Map E1. n Noorderweg 1,
q Winschoten
65 listed buildings, has a Slochteren (0598-422970). Road Map E2. * 18,500. @ 10, 12,
preservation order as a town 13, 14, 17, 29. n Torenstraat 10 (0597-
of historical interest. Fraeylemaborg is one of the 430022). ( Sat.
most imposing castles of
Groningen. It dates back to the This little town in Oost-
9 Slochteren Middle Ages. Three embrasures Groningen is known primarily
Road Map E1. * 2,600. @ 78, 178.
in the kitchen and the hall above for its three mills: Berg, a corn
n Noorderweg 1 (0598-422970). it bear silent witness to the and hulling mill from 1854;
( Thu. defensive functions the castle Dijkstra, which is 25 m (82 ft)
once had. In the 17th century, in height and dates from 1862;
When a natural gas field was two side wings were added, and and Edens, a corn and hulling
discovered here in 1959, in the 18th century it was given mill from 1761. The interesting
Slochteren gained overnight its present form with the Museum Stoomgemaal
national renown. The Slochteren addition of the monumental contains a steam-powered
Dome appeared to be the main wing. The castle is pump from 1878 which
largest in the world when it was surrounded by a double moat. was used to drain the
first discovered, and the revenue The extensive wooded park flooded polderland.
it brought in made Holland rich. just beyond the castle is an
The past of this historic town is interesting combination of the E Museum Stoomgemaal
closely associated with the lords 18th-century Baroque garden Oostereinde 4. Tel 0597-425070.
of the Fraeylemaborg. The style and the 19th-century Open call for timings. &
Reformed Church in Slochteren English landscape gardens.
consists of the remnants of a Environs
13th-century Romanesque- In Heiligerlee stands a
Gothic cross-naved church. The monument to the Battle of
Heiligerlee in 1568. This battle
is famous for being over in just
two hours and for the death
of Count Adolf of Nassau. The
Museum Slag bij Heiligerlee
has an exhibition dedicated to
the bloody battle.
E Museum Slag bij Heiligerlee

Provincialeweg 55. Tel 0597-418199.
Open Apr & Oct: 15pm TueSun;
MaySep: 10am5pm TueSat, 1pm
The historical castle of Fraeylemaborg at Slochteren 5pm Sun. Closed public hols. &
GRONINGEN 293
w Veendam
Road Map E2. * 28,500. @ 71, 73.
n Museumplein 5b (0598-364224).
( Mon am, Thu pm.
Parkstad Veendam (Veendam

Garden City) is so called for the
lush greenery in the town,
which for centuries was the
industrial heart of the peat
colonies. However, at the end
of the 19th century, peat-
cutting fell into decline.
Although shipping grew in
importance Veendam even
had its own maritime school
the town retained its character
as a peat-cutting centre.
The Veenkoloniaal Museum
(peat colony museum) offers Grand layout of the impressive fortress of Bourtange
a permanent exhibition
illustrating the history of
E Museum De Baracquen
Willem Lodewijkstraat 33. Tel 0599-
t Ter Apel
peat-cutting, navigation,
354600. Open mid-MarOct: Road Map E2. * 7,800.
agriculture and industry in @ 26, 70, 73. n Hoofdstraat 49a
10am5pm daily; Novmid-Mar:
the Groningen peatlands. noon5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 25 & (0599-581277). ( Thu.
The most renowned 26 Dec. &
inhabitant of Veendam was In Ter Apel, situated in the
Anthony Winkler Prins (1817 Westerwolde region between
1908), who wrote the famous
r Oude en Nieuwe Drenthe and Germany, is a
encyclopaedia which is still Pekela 1465 monastery of the same
associated with his name. Road Map E2. * 13,500. @ 75. name. In 1933, the monastery
n Restaurant Het Turfschip/ was thoroughly restored and
E Veenkoloniaal Museum Flessings terrein 3, Oude Pekela now functions as a museum
Museumplein 5. Tel 0598-364224. (0597-618833). ( Wed pm, Thu pm. devoted to ecclesiastic art and
Open 11am5pm TueThu, 15pm religious history. The fragrant
FriMon. Closed public hols. & The old and new villages herb garden located in the
of Pekela are typical ribbon cloisters contains a collection
developments with a marked of nutrient-rich herbs such as
e Bourtange rural, peatland character. birthwort and common rue.
Road Map E2. * 600. @ 70, 72. In the 18th century, potato
n Willem Lodewijkstraat 33 (0599- flour and straw-board manu- E Museum-klooster Ter Apel
354600). bourtange.nl facture grew in importance Boslaan 3. Tel 0599-581370. Open
in the region. There are 10am5pm TueSat, 15pm Sun &
Right at the German border pleasant footpaths along the public hols. Closed 1 Jan, Mon
is the magnificent fortified main canal. (NovMar). & 7 - =
town of Bourtange, whose
history dates back to 1580,
when William of Orange
ordered that a fortress with
five bastions be built here
on what had once been
swampland. The defence
works were continuously
upgraded, until the fort
gradually lost its defensive
functions. It has now been
painstakingly restored to its
18th-century appearance.
Museum De Baracquen
exhibits artifacts excavated
in the fort.
The charming town itself
lies within a star-shaped
labyrinth of moats. Beautifully restored cloisters at the Ter Apel monastery
FRIESLAND
Friesland, or Frysln as it is officially called, is a remarkable
province perhaps best known outside the Netherlands for
its distinctive Friesian cows. Parts of it are below sea level,
and its size has increased since historic times as a result
of land reclamation schemes on the former Zuiderzee.
Much of the province is fenland, whose The provincial capital of Leeuwarden

myriad canals and channels no doubt has some interesting and unique
helped the freedom-loving Frisians fight museums, while elsewhere in the
off invaders. The 1345 battle of Warns, province visitors can enjoy collections
when the Frisians beat the Dutch army, consisting of items as diverse as historic
is still commemorated every year. In the costumes and hats, ceramics, letters, ice
7th century, the Frisians under their king, skates and sledges, vernacular paintings,
Radboud, inhabited an independent bells, model boats and human
territory that stretched all the way to mummies. Outside the towns, the
Flanders and Cologne (see pp489), and landscape is interesting too, from
they have preserved their distinctive the mud flats on the Waddenzee to
language to this day. Other features the forests and heathland of the
peculiar to this province are unique Drents-Friese Woud National Park,
sports and recreations like sailing and away to the east. Tourism is becoming
racing in sktjes (traditional Frisian boats), increasingly important in Friesland
hunting for plovers eggs, fierljeppen (pole- nowadays and its inhabitants less
vaulting), keatsen (a ball game), and the insular. Visitors are greeted with open
famous Elfstedentocht, a winter ice-skating arms and Jo binne tige welcom You
marathon around 11 Frisian towns. are heartily welcome.
Bartlehiem, the junction of the Elfsteden (11 towns) a favourite summer destination for day-trippers
Display showing the position of planets in the solar system, Planetarium Friesland
Exploring Friesland
Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular
Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by
undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with
pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands
and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the The sea dyke at Wierum
provinces southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland
and drifting sands, are more reminiscent of Drenthe.
St. Annaparochie
Sights at a Glance
1 Leeuwarden
2 Dokkum
3 Franeker Sexbierum Menaldum
4 Harlingen
5 Bolsward
FRANEKER Dronrijp
6 Workum
7 Hindeloopen
HARLINGEN
8 Gaasterland
9 Sloten
0 Sneek
q Thialfstadion
Wieuwerd
w Oude Venen Wommels
e Beetsterzwaag
r Appelscha
Makkum
BOLSWARD
SNEEK
WORKUM
HINDELOOPEN ssen
e
Flu
Koudum Sloter
Meer
The Noorderhaven in Harlingen Balk SLOTEN
Stavoren
ND
RLA
Rijsterbos STE
GAA
Getting Around Oudemirdum Lemmer
Friesland is convenient and easy to get to.
It is crossed by the A7 (eastwest) and the
A32 (northsouth) motorways. Rail and
bus links are unproblematic. Most of the
larger villages and towns have a railway
station; those which dont can be reached
by bus. From Harlingen, Holwerd or
Lauwersoog, the islands are only a short
boat ride away. The province also has a
good network of minor roads, walking
routes and cycle tracks.
Gabled houses along Het Diep in Sloten

FRIESLAND 297
Lauwersoog
Anjum
Holwerd
Lauwers
Meer
Ferwerd
DOKKUM
Damwoude Kollum
Ee
er
Dokkum
Stiens
The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
Veenwouden
Buitenpost highest in Friesland
LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
Meer
Bergum 0 kilometres 10
Surhuisterveen
0 miles 5
a al
an
tK
ie
Earnewld
r
rg
EN
Ma
VEN
DE
es
OU
ns
Drachten
Pri
Grou
FRIESLAND
BEETSTERZWAAG
Akkrum
Donkerbroek
Gorredijk
Oosterwolde
Joure
APPELSCHA
Heerenveen
THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop
Tjeukemeer Noordwolde
Wolvega Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Picturesque Lindevallei at Wolvega, near Thialfstadion

The Elfstedentocht The Elfstedenkruisje

(Elfsteden cross) is in
The Elfstedentocht, or 11-town race, is a 200-km the shape of a
(124-mile) ice-skating marathon which passes Maltese cross. In
the middle is an
through Leeuwarden, Skeen, IJlst, Sloten, Stavoren,
enamel coat of
Hindeloopen, Workum, Bolsward, Harlingen, arms of Friesland
Franeker, Dokkum and back to Leeuwarden. and the
Participants are awarded the famous inscription De
Friesche Elf Steden
Elfstedenkruisje only when they have collected all
The 11 Frisian towns.
the stamps on their starters card and provided they
get back to Leeuwarden before midnight. The
0 kilometres 10
winner of the race is guaranteed local fame.
0 miles 10
The Tocht Der Tochten

The Tocht der Tochten (literally, Race of Races), as the
Elfstedentocht is known, is a combination of race and
touring marathon and has acquired almost mythical
status in the Netherlands. The race is a real media
event, keeping millions glued to their television
screens. Although the marathon has been held only
15 times since 1900, the entire country falls under the
spell of the event as soon as the mercury falls even
slightly below zero. If there is a lasting frost, the area
supervisors measure daily the thickness of the ice, as Harns Frjentsjer
it has to be at least 15 cm (6 in) thick for the race to (Harlingen) (Franeker)
be held. When the magic words It sil heve (It shall
happen) are uttered by the supervisors, Friesland Ha
is transformed, overflowing with excited crowds. r
lingervaart
Trains are packed, the roads are jammed with cars

and entire villages are mobilized to provide hot tea
and oranges for the skaters. Wandering musicians
whip the crowd into a frenzy of enthusiasm. The Boalsert
Dutch language has been enriched with the Frisian (Bolsward)
word klnen, which means to walk overland on skates
past places where the ice is impassable.
Snits
t
(Sneek)
aar
ekv
r Tr
Drylts
me
(Ijlst)
rku
Wo
Warkum
(Workum)
Hylpen
(Hindeloopen)
Franeker in a festive mood
Starum Sleat
(Stavoren) (Sloten)
Dropping out is a common occurrence during

the race. Despite being affected by snow
blindness and symptoms of frostbite, many
participants in the race attempt to complete the
course. Some break down in tears when they
realize that they will be unable to collect the
much-coveted Elfstedenkruisje (Elfsteden cross).
FRIESLAND 299
The hamlet of Bartlehiem is famous for its foot-

bridge over the Finkumervaart. Bartlehiem is the
best-known skating area in all of Holland and is a
psychological milestone for the skaters. Those who
still must get to Dokkum may pass skaters travelling
in the opposite direction, having already won their
stamp from the northernmost point on the route.
Many skaters have to take the BartlehiemDokkum
section in the dark. The Northern Lights seen at this
time of year also attract thousands of spectators.
Dokkum
Ee
er
um All winners
kk
Do
of the
Elfstedentocht
Bartlehiem are national
heroes, but
Evert van
Benthem even
more so. A Two-time winner Evert van Benthem
farmer from
Start Sint-Jansklooster, he managed to cross the finishing
Ljouwert line at the Bonkevaart in Leeuwarden in first place
(Leeuwarden) twice in a row (1985 and 1986). Van Benthems
double victory gave him a legendary status
throughout the Netherlands. The prize itself is
a laurel wreath, both for men and for women.
The names of the winners are engraved on the
Elfstedenrijder monument in Leeuwarden.
The Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum

The Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum (first Frisian
skating museum) in Hindeloopen (see p302) has
among its exhibits such items as antique skates,
original workshops, sleds and historical documents
covering the 90 or so years that the Elfstedentocht
has been held. Displays on innumerable winners,
including Reinier Paping, Jeen van den Berg and
Henk Angenet, are also featured here. Among the
highlights of the museums collection are the
skating packs of various heroes of the event, the
skates of two-time winner Evert van Benthem and
the starters card of WA van Buren. One of the most
moving exhibits in the collection is the right big
toe of Tinus Udding, which he lost to frostbite
during the harsh race in
the cold winter of 1963.
Long before sunrise, tens of

thousands of skaters start off
from the FEC (Frisian Exhibition
Centre) in Leeuwarden.
Key
Route of the Elfstedentocht
Road Willem-Alexander, alias WA van Buren, in the arms of his
mother, Queen Beatrix, after the 1985 race
1 Leeuwarden
Road Map D1. * 89,000. @
n Achmeatoren, Sophialaan 4 (0900-
2024060). ( Fri & Sat.
Frisian capital and home to Mata

Hari, Peter Jelles Troelstra and Jan
Jacob Slauerhoff, Leeuwarden
was also the residence of the
Frisian Nassaus (15841747). The
town park and gardens of the
Prinsentuin and Stadhouderlijk
Hof date back to this period.
Characteristic of Leeuwarden is
the statue of Us Mem (our
mother), honouring the famous
Frisian cattle. The Fries Museum, Atmospheric Dokkum, a major port in the 8th century
situated in an 18th-century
patrician house, has a large collection of ceramics of 2 Dokkum
collection of items excavated international importance. Road Map D1. * 13,000. @ n Op
from terps, as well as collections The artifacts include Asian, de Fetze 13 (0519-293800). ( Wed.
of clothes, art and European and contemporary
applied arts. The ceramics and tiles. The trading and garrison town
same building The old municipal orphan- of Dokkum was the
also houses the age is now home to the headquarters of the Frisian
Verzetsmuseum Natuurmuseum Frysln Admiralty between 1596 and
Friesland, a (natural history museum), 1645, though it owes its fame
collection and whose exhibition of Friesland above all to the killing here of St
educational facility underwater is well worth a visit. Boniface by pagan Frisians in AD
dedicated to the 754 (see pp489). The local
Friesland E Fries Museum history museum, the
resistance Wilhelminaplein 92. Tel 058-2555500. Admiraliteitshuis, has an
Frisian coat
movement of Open 11am5pm TueSun. & 7 9 exhibition on the life of the saint.
of arms
World War II, in E Verzetsmuseum Friesland Other exhibits include artifacts
which more than 600 Jewish Turfmarkt 1. Tel 058-2120111. excavated from terps, costumes,
people were killed, and nearly Open 11am5pm TueSun. silverware, handicrafts and folk
300 members of the resistance Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. art. In addition to the
also lost their lives. There is a Bonifatiuskerk, Dokkum has a
E Het Princessehof
chronological exhibition on park for religious processions
Grote Kerkstraat 11. Tel 058-2948958.
World War II and its aftermath, Open 11am5pm TueSun. Closed
with the stations of the cross
explorations of contemporary 1 Jan, 30 Apr, 25 Dec. & - = and a chapel. Water drawn from
wars and racism, and documents the well of Bonifatiusbron is
and artifacts from the time. E Natuurmuseum Frysln believed to have therapeutic
On Oldehoofsterkerkhof, the Schoenmakersperk 2. Tel 058-2332244. qualities. Near the well is a statue
leaning tower of the Oldehove Open 11am5pm TueSun. & 7 of the saint after whom it is
dominates the skyline. When named. Saint Boniface was
building began in 1529, the actually an Englishman, born in
church tower was going to 675, who came to the region on
be the tallest in the a mission to convert the Frisians.
Netherlands. Unfortunately, the Heathens attacked Boniface and
foundations began to sink, and his companions. Despite holding
so the work stopped just three a bible in front of his face,
years later. The tower has Boniface was killed by a sword.
remained incomplete ever In the centre, Natuurmuseum
since. The top of the tower Dokkum explores all aspects of
offers an excellent view over the natural world in Friesland,
Leeuwarden and its environs, both living and inanimate. There
reaching as far as the coast. are cabinets of rocks, stones,
The museum Het shells and insects, and there is
Princessehof, housed in a a sound cabinet that plays
palace which was formerly the the songs of various birds
residence of Maria Louise van from the area.
Hessen-Kassel (also known as The leaning tower of the Oldehove (1529), On the former town
Marijke Meu), contains a unique still incomplete walls, now a park, are two
FRIESLAND 301
19th-century stellingmolen- Harlingen is Pingjum. Menno

type mills known as De Hoop Simons (14961561), the
and Zeldenrust (see p29). evangelical preacher after
whom many of the Dutch
E Admiraliteitshuis Anabaptists named themselves,
Diepswal 27. Tel 0519-293134. started his religious life here.
Open AprOct: 15pm TueSat. & Mennonites from all over the
museumdokkum.nl world now visit.
E Natuurmuseum Dokkum
Kleine Oosterstraat 12.
Tel 0519-297318. Open OctMay: 5 Bolsward
Sat & Sun; JunSep: MonSat. Road Map C2. * 10,000. @ n
Closed public hols. Wipstraat 6 (0515-577701). ( Thu.
Modest Bolsward first arose in

3 Franeker the 11th century as a trading
Road Map C1. * 13,000. @
post, enjoying the height of its
n Voorstraat 35 (058-2572590). development in the 15th
( Wed & Sat. Planetarium Friesland century. Martinikerk, a pseudo-
basilica whose tower features a
Franeker was a university town E Kaatsmuseum saddleback roof, was built
from 1585 to 1811. Today, it is Voorstraat 2. Tel 0517-393910. Open during this period. The Stadhuis
the centre of skating in Friesland. 15 MaySep: 15pm TueSat. & (town hall), with its local history
In and around the Voorstraat E Museum Martena museum, the Oudheidkamer,
are several monumental Voorstraat 35. Tel 0517-392192. is the towns centrepiece.
buildings, including the Open 10am5pm TueFri, 15pm Sat
15th-century Martenahuis. The & Sun. &
Cammingahuis, which dates E Planetarium Friesland
from the 14th century, now Eise Eisingastraat 3. Tel 0517-393070.
houses the Kaatsmuseum Open 10am5pm TueSat, 15pm Sun
(skating museum). The Museum (also AprOct: 15pm Mon). & ^
Martena, in a fine 18th-century
building, has a collection about
the former university. The 4 Harlingen
Renaissance Stadhuis (town Road Map C2. * 14,500. @
hall) has an ornate faade. n Grote Bredeplaats 17b
Opposite is the Planetarium (0517-430207). ( Wed am, Sat.
Friesland (1781), built by wool
industrialist Eise Eisinga. For two The port town of Harlingen
centuries, the planets have retains much of its old charm.
rotated around its ceiling. Beside The Zoutsloot and
the Sjkeln, a sacred place for Noorderhaven have been
Frisian skating, is the Bogt fen painstakingly restored. A statue
Gun (16th century), Hollands of Hans Brinker (see p27) stands Bolsward town hall
oldest student residence. at the ferry port. South of
Local brews can be sampled at
the Us Heit Bierbrouwerij, the
Mata Hari
smallest brewery in the country.
Margaretha Geertruida Zelle (18761917), who became known A museum has displays of beer-
to all the world as Mata Hari (Malaysian for eye of the day), making equipment while a
grew up in Leeuwarden. Her life came to a tragic end in guided tour shows how the
Vincennes outside Paris, where beer is made. Attached to the
she was executed by a firing brewery is a bar selling the
squad after a French tribunal house ales, with plenty available
found her guilty of spying for the by the bottle to take away
Germans. The Fries Museum tells
as souvenirs.
you more about this legendary
woman, who has gained international
E Oudheidkamer
notoriety through films and books
Jongemastraat 2. Tel 0515-578787.
about her life. The house where she
Open AprOct: 9amnoon & 24pm
lived with her parents from 1883 to
MonThu. &
1890 on Grote Kerkstraat 212 now
houses the Frysk Letterkundig E Us Heit Bierbrouwerij
Museum (Frisian museum of letters). Snekerstraat 43. Tel 0515-577449.
Open Mon, Tue, ThuSat (call ahead).
6 Workum
Road Map C2. * 4,000. @
n Merk 4 (0515-541045).
The elongated Zuiderzee town

of Workum flourished around
1300. Workum is known for the
fine faades of its houses and its
unfinished 16th-century church,
the Grote of Gertrudiskerk.
Beside the lock is the centuries-
old wharf of de Hoop, where
traditional boats are still built.
The most popular attraction in A sea-rescue centre with its inviting bench, in Hindeloopen
Workum is Jopie Huisman
Museum, which is the most- painting. The town is full of little E Museum Hidde
visited museum in Friesland. canals with wooden bridges Nijland Stichting
It features the autodidactic art and a variety of pretty captains Dijkweg 1. Tel 0514-521420.
of painter and scrap-metal houses, with their characteristic Open MarOct: 11am5pm MonFri,
merchant Jopie Huisman faades. One of the most dist- 1:305pm Sat, Sun & public hols. &
(19222000). His drawings inctive spots is the picturesque E Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum
and paintings tell the stories 17th-century lock- keepers Kleine Weide 13. Tel 0514-521683.
of the daily grind and poverty, house by the port, with its Open 10am6pm MonSat,
the drudgery and toil of the wooden bell-tower. 15pm Sun. &
tradesman, the housewife In the Museum Hidde
and the ordinary person. Nijland Stichting (museum of
The picturesque 17th-century the Hidde Nijland foundation), 8 Gaasterland
weigh house contains the the life of the wealthier citizens
Road Map C2. @ n De Brink 4,
Museum Warkums Erfskip. of Hindeloopen during the
Oudemirdum (0514-571777).
This museum delves into the 18th century is showcased.
history of Workum, and, Well-appointed period rooms This area of fine, rolling
principally, that of its shipping show the colourful clothes woodlands in the southwestern
and pottery industries. and the now-famous painted corner of Friesland offers many
furniture of the time. A opportunities for walking and
E Jopie Huisman Museum substantial exhibition of cycling. The regions name comes
Noard 6. Tel 0515-543131. Open Apr paintings vividly illustrates from the word gaast, which refers
Oct: 10am5pm MonSat, 15pm the development of painting to the sandy heights formed
Sun; Mar & Nov: 15pm daily. & 7 in Hindeloopen. during the last two Ice Ages.
E Museum Warkums Erfskip The Eerste Friese At the edge of Gaasterland
Merk 4. Tel 0515-543155. Open Apr Schaatsmuseum (first Frisian are a number of steep cliffs,
Oct: 10am5pm MonSat, 1:30 skating museum) (see p299) such as the Rode Klif and the
5pm Sun; NovDec & mid-FebMar: offers a unique collection of Oudemirdumerklif, formed
15pm daily. & old skates. It also has a fine when the Zuiderzee eroded the
exhibition dedicated to the coastline. On the Rode Klif at
Elfstedentocht and various Laaxum is an enormous boulder
traditional workshops (such as bearing the inscription Leaver
a smithy and a carpenters), dea as slaef, or, Rather dead than
as well as a comprehensive a slave, a memento of the 1345
collection of sledges and Frisian victory over the Dutch.
historical material such as The Rijsterbos wood, with its
old tiles and prints. abundant bracken, dates from
The Football Boots of Abe Lenstra by
Jopie Huisman
7 Hindeloopen
Road Map C2. * 850. @
n Nieuwstad 26 (0514-851223).
Hindeloopen plays a special role

in Friesland. This picturesque old
town of seafarers and fishermen
has its own dialect, its own
costume and its own style of A cyclist in Gaasterland
FRIESLAND 303
the 17th century and once octagonal bovenkruier-type mill

consisted mainly of oak. The little from 1755. The Museum
river of Luts, which is now known Stedhs Sleat houses the
because of the Elfstedentocht, Laterna Magica, a museum of
was used for the transport of oak magic lanterns, an antique
logs and oak bark for tanneries. museum and a collection of
In the village of Oudemirdum is costumes, hats, fans and bells.
a hostel, shops and an old pump.
Informatiecentrum Mar en Klif E Museum Stedhs Sleat
(Sea and Cliff Information Centre) Heerenwal 48. Tel 0514-531541.
has information about how Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueFri,
the landscape was formed and 15pm Sat & Sun. &
about local flora and fauna.
Special attention is paid to
badgers, and in the wild garden, 0 Sneek
a bat tower has been built.
Road Map C2. * 31,600. @
The Luts river in Balk, flanked n Marktstraat 20 (0515-750678).
by linden trees, inspired the ( Tue am, Sat. Mummy in Wieuwerd, a small village
poem Mei by Herman Gorter in Littenseradiel
(18641927). Sneeks centrepiece is the
Waterpoort (water-gate) dating Museum focuses on the
} Informatiecentrum Mar en Klif from 1613. Sneekweek is the history of navigation and
De Brink 4, Oudemirdum. Tel 0514- name of a popular sailing event shipbuilding. Its exhibits
571777. Open AprOct: 10am5pm that in early August brings include a sktje deckhouse,
MonSat, 11am5pm Sun. together amateur sailors and the cabin of a boeier yacht
partygoers from all over the and approximately 200 model
country. Fries Scheepvaart ships. The zilverzaal (silver room)
9 Sloten houses one of the richest
Road Map C2. * 650. @ collections of Frisian silver.
n Museum Stedhs Sleat,
E Fries Scheepvaart Museum
Heerenwal 48 (0514-531541).
Kleinzand 14. Tel 0515-414057. Open
The smallest town in Friesland, 10am5pm MonSat, noon5pm Sun.
replete with pretty canals, Closed public hols. & 7 partly.
embankments and water-gates,
was designed by famous Frisian Environs
military engineer Menno van The village of Wieuwerd, north
Coehoorn. Built at a junction of of Sneek, is known for the
roads and waterways, it was at human mummies in its
the height of its development in 13th-century St Nicholas church
the 17th and 18th centuries. On (open in summer). They were
either side of the town are old discovered by chance in 1765
cannons. The old fortress mill at Typical stepped gables in Sloten, the and the reason for their
the Lemsterpoort is an smallest town in Friesland mummification is not known.
Schuitje Sailing
Schuitje sailing, or sktsjesilen, is a sport which has gained
great popularity in the lakes of Friesland, sktje being the
name of the typical local spritsail barges. Originally
used for the carriage of goods and as
ferries, these boats are raced by
representatives of various towns
and villages. The result is a series
of spectacular events held in July
and August in various places, each
time on a different lake and from a
different base. Every day certain
prizes are won, and on the last
day, in Sneek, the champion of
the year is announced and
fted. The races are held over
the course of 11 racing days and
three rest days.
q The Thialfstadion VISITORS CHECKLIST
The Thialfstadion in Heerenveen, completely renovated in Practical Information

2001, is regarded as the temple of Dutch ice-skating and has Pim Mulierlaan 1, Heerenveen.
Tel 0513-637700/0900-2020026.
international renown. The exuberant crowds that converge Open timings vary, call ahead
on the stadium for international events create a unique or check website for exact
atmosphere. Skating heroes such as Marianne Timmer, opening hours. Closed Apr
Gunda Niemann and Rintje Ritsma have all experienced Sep. & -
thialf.nl
emotional highlights in their sporting careers here.
Transport
Heerenveen.
The Art of Ice-making
Making a good ice surface is an art. The Thialf
ice-makers strive to strike a balance between Thialf Spectators
The fans here are
deformation the extent to which the ice breaks
famous for their
down under the pressure of the skate and
colourful garb and their
the smoothness of the ice. imaginative banners.
Underneath
the ice are 70 km
(43 miles) of
cooling elements.
The great hall covers The ice hockey hall

an area of 15,000 m2 is 1,800 m2 (2,150 sq
(17,950 sq yd) and can yd) and has room for
accommodate 13,000 4,000 spectators.
spectators.
Triumph Hinged Skates

The climax of every major skating event in the Skates which have a hinge between the shoe and
Thialfstadion is the procession of winners the blade give significantly better results. All new
through the stadium on a special sleigh drawn world records have been achieved with the help
by a Frisian horse. of klapschaatsen (hinged skates).
FRIESLAND 305
countryside, with coniferous

and deciduous forests,
heath and fens offering
ample opportunities for a
leisurely afternoon of rambling
and cycling.
r Appelscha
Road Map D2. * 4,500. @
n Boerestreek 23 (0516-431760).
The vast coniferous forests,

Stately Lauswolt, now a luxury hotel with a restaurant drifting sands and colourful
heath and fen areas around
w Oude Venen Reidplm visitors centre of Appelscha form stunning
Road Map D2. @ n P Miedemaweg
It Fryske Gea at Earnewld surroundings. The village was
9, Earnewld (0511-539500). provides information on the created in the 19th century
surrounding area and is a good when the main industry was
This region, whose name starting point for hiking and peat-cutting and is now on the
literally means the old fens, is a sailing expeditions. Beside the edge of the Nationaal Park
fine area of peat-marshes with centre is the Eibertshiem, a Drents-Friese Woud.
reedlands, swampy woodlands breeding centre for storks. A favourite place with visitors
and sunken polders between A great deal of attention has is the Kale Duinen area of
Earnewld and Grou. The lakes been paid to water cleanliness in drifting sands. On the Bosberg
the region, and now otters have at 26 m (85 ft) above sea level,
returned to breed. In winter, the the highest spot in the area is
area hosts many skating tours. a viewing tower and
information centre.
} Bezoekerscentrum De A distinctive phenomenon
Reidplm in southeast Friesland is the
Ds v.d. Veenweg 7, Earnewld. Klokkenstoel (bell stool). This
Tel 0511-539410. poor mens church tower was
Open mid-AprSep: 15pm daily. a provisional church tower
built when funds were low; it
was usually situated in the
e Beetsterzwaag churchyard. In Appelscha you
Road Map D2. * 3,700. @ will find a klokkenstoel dating
n Hoofdstraat 67 (0512-381955). from 1453. Langedijke is home
to what is presumed to be the
This village was once one of oldest bell in the Netherlands,
the seats of the Frisian landed dating from 1300.
The swampy marshes of gentry and so has a number of
Oude Venen stately homes and gardens. Fine Environs
examples of these are Lauswolt, At Ravenswoud, 5 km (3 miles)
were formed in the 17th and the Lycklamahuis and the northeast of Appelsche, an
18th centuries by peat-cutting Harinxmastate. Beetsterzwaag 18-m (59-ft) observation tower
and now offer a home to over is surrounded by a varied provides outstanding views.
100 species of birds and
approximately 400 plant
species. There is a large colony
of great cormorants and various
rare birds such as the spotted
crake, the purple heron, the
white-fronted goose, the
barnacle goose, the Eurasian
wigeon and the ruff, all of which
are best watched in spring.
In and around the water are
water lilies, yellow water lily,
marsh lousewort and cotton-
grass. The areas hayfields are
yellow with marsh marigold
in spring. Drifting sand dune near the small town of Appelscha
DRENTHE
Drenthe was once a free republic of farmers, and its inhab-
itants have always lived close to the land. Although the region
has no cities and few towns, the rural poverty that once
prevailed is no more, and tourists, especially those
interested in archaeology and nature, are arriving in
increasing numbers.
Drenthe, whose landscape is a product of from the Neolithic era; information about
the last Ice Age, has managed to keep time this period, with archaeological finds, is
at bay by holding on to its character, displayed in the museum at Borger. Other
reputed by the rest of the country to have museums in the region feature glass
been born of peat, gin and suspicion. blowing, artworks, natural history and
Moraines and megaliths dot the paper-cutting. Orvelte boasts a fine
countryside. The extensive woodland, open-air museum with Saxon farmhouses
heathland and peat bogs have a primeval and traditional crafts, while Dwingeloo
atmosphere, although this does not mean looks to the future at the Planetron
that there has been no human intervention. observatory and planetarium.
The top level of peat has been largely Visitors come to Drenthe for peace and
removed, while the traditional esdorps, the quiet after the rigours of city life. But this
local hamlets, have modern outskirts. does not mean there are no facilities
However, peat moors and forests, ancient local centres such as Assen, Emmen and
burial mounds, canals, flocks of sheep and Hoogeveen are urbanized areas that grew
green fields are the principal features here. out of villages, and there is a variety of
There are more than 50 megaliths in hotels, guesthouses and restaurants
Drenthe, the remains of tombs dating throughout the region.
The largest horse market in western Europe, at Zuidlaren

Papeloze Kerk, a megalith near Schoonoord in Drenthe
Exploring Drenthe
The finest natural areas of Drenthe are the Sights at a Glance
Hondsrug ridge, between Zuidlaren and Emmen, 2 Assen
and the Ellertsveld region between Assen and 3 Norg
4 Eelde-Paterswolde
Emmen. The areas around Diever, Dwingeloo and
5 Zuidlaren
Norg are a resplendent green (or purple, when the
6 Hondsrug Roden
heather is in bloom). The eastern part of the region,
7 Rolde
with its endless excavated peatlands and the 8 Borger
wilderness of the Amsterdamsche Veld, is relatively 9 Orvelte
unknown. The provincial capital of Assen is also a 0 Westerbork
regional centre, as is Emmen, where Noorder q Dwingeloo
Dierenpark Zoo, in the middle of the town, has w Diever NORG
become one of the most-visited attractions in e Coevorden
r Emmen
Holland. The megaliths are concentrated around
Emmen, along the Hondsrug and at Havelte. Tour
1 The Megalith Route
pp31011
Smilde
a rt
va
ofd
Ho
se
ent
Dr
DIEVER
Vledder
The 14th-century Siepelkerk at Dwingeloo
ijker Aa
nw
ee
DWINGELOO
St
Havelte
Ruinen
Hoogeveen
Meppel
The broad and silent heath
Zuidwolde
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Major railway
Minor railway
Regional border
International border
Thatcher at work in Havelte

DRENTHE 309
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Paterswoldse-
meer
EELDE-
PATERSWOLDE Zuidlaarder-
meer
ZUIDLAREN
Vries The landscape reserve of the Drentse Aa river, an exceptionally
peaceful hiking area near Hondsrug
Hu
nz
e
Anloo
T
H
E
ASSEN Gieten
M
EG
ROLDE Gasselte
A
HO
LI
Nieuw-Buinen
TH
ND
SR
BORGER
Tweede-
UG
DRENTHE Exlormond Historical wooden walkway through the

peatland (Valthe)
RO
O ra n j e
an
k
Exloo
U
aa
Beilen
l
Schoonoord Nieuw-Weerdinge
WESTERBORK
Odoorn
ORVELTE
Emmer-
Compascuum
Zweeloo
EMMEN
Barger-
Oosterhesselen Compascuum
Klazienaveen
Dalen Nieuw-
Amsterdam
Amsterdamsche Veld
Schoonebeek
COEVORDEN
Getting Around
Every year in July, Drenthe is the venue of the Rijwielvierdaagse, a four-day
cycle tour that attracts more than 25,000 participants. There are 500 km
(310 miles) of marked cycle routes in the region. The A28 motorway crosses
the province through Meppel, Hoogeveen and Assen, and the railway
follows the same route. Other motorways include the N371 from Meppel
to Assen along the Drentse Hoofdvaart, the N37 Hoogeveen-Emmen and
the N34 Emmen-Zuidlaren. Emmen is also the last stop on the railway to
Zwolle via Coevorden. Bus service is limited, particularly in the evenings
and on weekends.
1 The Megalith Route 1 Witte Wieven are ghosts that inhabit

the tumuli, such as the Negen Bergen
Of the 54 Megaliths in Holland, 52 are in Drenthe at Norg. They come out at midnight
and the remaining two are in Groningen. These particularly when it is misty to dance.
megaliths, or hunebedden, are the remains
Tynaarlo
of ancient tombs built of boulders some NOORDENSEVELD
5,000 years ago by the Neolithic Beaker Norg Negen Vries
People. What can be seen today are only Bergen
the frameworks of the tombs, which
were all hidden underneath GASTERSE
sandhills. It is still not known DUINEN
whether these were common NOORDENVELD
graves or the tombs of Loon
prominent individuals.
At Diever and ASSEN
Havelte are three
megaliths which
are not on the route
described here. The Rolde
largest consists of 23
upright stones, 9 top
stones, 2 keystones and a gate of 4 uprights
8 The Great Megalith
and 2 top stones. At least 665 ancient pots
have been found here. In World War II, the of Balloo is at the end of
a sandy path in the Grolloo
megalith was demolished to make way for
an airfield. It was reconstructed in 1950. Tumulibos woods, an
area which abounds
with tumuli.
Key
Tour route
Other road
Railway
Megalith
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
9 Megalith at Loon
One of the best-preserved megaliths in 7 De Zeven Marken,
Holland is at Loon, northeast of Assen. Before the open-air museum of
1870 it was in even better condition, when Schoonoord, tells you about such
the original top stone was still in place. things as the legend of the giants
Ellert and Brammert.
Building the Megaliths

Until the 19th century, it was believed that
the megaliths were built by the huynen,
giants of great strength and after whom the
hunebedden are named. Modern historians
believe that the boulders were placed with
their flat edges on rollers, which thus allowed
them to be moved to the site of the tomb.
The upright stones were placed in pits dug
beforehand. A gentle slope of earth was then
made to allow the top stones to be dragged
up. There is, however, no explanation of how
the people of the Stone Age managed to
organize such large-scale projects. A 17th-century depiction of megalith builders

DRENTHE 311
Typical beakers
after which the Tips for Drivers
Beaker People are
Length: 95 km (60 miles)
named. Pottery
Stopping-off places: All villages
shards of these
on the route offer refreshments
containers are the
and meals. To see most megaliths
most common finds
Beaker Pitcher you will need to leave your car
in the megaliths.
and walk, as only a few are by the
roadside. They are almost
Annen 2 Anloo is one
invariably well sign-posted and
of the most make excellent picnic spots.
picturesque
Anloo Collared flask
Drenthe villages.
3 The largest megalith in Holland

BALLOORVELD Eext measures 22.5 m (74 ft), has 9 top
stones and 26 upright stones.
Balloorkuil Gieten
Excavations were carried out in
Balloo Borger in 1685, but none of the
finds has been preserved.
4 Het Flintn Hoes, the

Nationaal Hunebedden
DROUWENERZAND Informatiecentrum,
(National Megalith
Drouwen
Information Centre),
has been set up beside
Hon
Hollands largest megalith.

dsru
Buinen
5 The Exloo Necklace
g
Borger was found in the peat in

1881. It is made of beads
of tin, faience, bronze and
Schoonloo amber, which is evidence
of trading links between
Uitzichttoren Exloo prehistoric Drenthe and
the Baltic countries,
Cornwall and even Egypt.
Odoorn
ELLERTSVELD
Valthe
Open-air Flint was the main
Schoonoord museum material used by the
hunter-gatherers of
prehistoric Drenthe
t Haantje to make such items as
knives, axes, scrapers
SLEENERZAND and arrowheads.
Megaliths (hunebedden)
There are no longer any complete
megaliths. Until 1734, when trading in
boulders was forbidden, thousands of megaliths
were hacked up to be used as building material.
There are definite traces of 88 megaliths, 82 of
them in Drenthe. The 54 surviving megaliths are 6 De Papeloze Kerk (the Popeless Church)
all restorations. The most common finds from This megalith is so called because of the Calvinist
excavations are pottery shards. Scrapers, axes, sermons that were held here in the early 16th
arrowheads, and amber and copper jewellery century against the popish (Catholic) faith. In 1959,
all extremely valuable trading goods in Drenthe the megalith was restored to its original state, to
in 3000 BC are much rarer finds. the extent of covering half of the tomb with sand.
2 Assen tools he found have not yet

Road Map D2. * 61,500. v been resolved.
n Marktstraat 8 (0592 243788). Outside the formal gardens of
( Wed, Sat. the Drostenhuis is the towns
trademark Bartje, a statue of
Assen is the capital of Drenthe, the little peasant boy from
although it was only upgraded Dutch author Anne de Vries
from a village to a town in 1809. book (1935) who did not want
The cloister of the abbey to pray before his daily
church of Maria in Campis meals of brown beans.
(12581600) now forms part The Vaart and the Markt
of the Rijksarchief (national have the characteristic
archive) on the Brink. stately white houses of
Also on the Brink is the Assen, which were built in
Drents Museum of local the late 18th to the early
history, which is housed in 19th centuries.
the abbey church, the Between Markt and
Ontvangershuis (1698), Brink is the commercial The 13th-century Romanesque church
the Drostenhuis (1778) centre with its pedestrian on the Brink of Norg
and Provinciehuis (1885). Bartje precinct and excellent
The museum contains a facilities. Modern-day Assen miniature cars and scooters
wealth of exhibits on comes to life when the circuit around an artificial town,
prehistoric times and the van Assen TT motorcycle racing complete with traffic lights, road
towns history as well as a event is held here each year on signs and traffic police. Older
discovery room for children. the last Saturday in June. children can use quad bikes and
There are also collections of Around 100,000 spectators go-karts. Other attractions
local art, including works descend on the town, which is include a boating lake, mini-golf
by Bernard Von Dlmen- home to the only remaining and a climbing tower.
Krumpelmann (18971987). circuit from the championships
The controversial finds of inaugural season in 1949. E Drents Museum
Tjerk Vermaning (192987), Younger children who have Brink 15. Tel 0592-37773.
who in the 1960s extended the gained a taste for speed and Open 11 am5pm TueSun (Mon on
history of human habitation in bikes at the TT circuit will enjoy public hols). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
Holland by tens of thousands a visit to Verkeerspark Assen. 7-=
of years, are in a separate This is a traffic park for children, Verkeerspark Assen
display case: disputes on where they can learn the rules De Haar 11a. Tel 0592-350005.
the authenticity of the flint of the road while driving Open Apr: days vary; MayAug: daily;
Sep & Oct: days vary. Closed 29 Nov
Mar. verkeersparkassen.nl
3 Norg
Road Map D2. * 3,500. @ n Brink
1 (0592-613128). ( Wed.
The Romanesque church on the

Brink dates from the 13th
century. The unique frescoes in
the choir have barely survived
through the centuries and are in
very poor condition.
Environs
The area around Norg is
steeped in prehistory.
Three megalithic tombs are
to be found there, while in the
Noorderveld are Bronze Age
tumuli (the Negen Bergen).
Norgerholt is the name
given to the oak woods
where the local people used
to assemble during the
Children Bathing in a Stream (c.1935) by Von Dlmen-Krumpelmann Middle Ages.
DRENTHE 313
4 Eelde-
Paterswolde
Road Map D2. * 10,500. @ 52.
n B Boermalaan 4 (0503092136).
( Wed.
Two villages merge together

at EeldePaterswolde and are
squeezed between the
Paterswoldse Meer lake and
Groningen Airport, which,
despite its name, is in Drenthe
not Groningen. The lake is
popular among watersports
enthusiasts. The airport serves Dense woodland in the Hondsrug area
mainly domestic flights (it is a
halfhour flight to Schiphol) and E Museum De Buitenplaats the subtropical swimming
flying enthusiasts. Hoofdweg 76. Tel 0503095818. complex of Aqualaren, as well
The distinctive modern brick Open 11am5pm TueSun, Easter as De Sprookjeshof recreation
building housing the Museum Sun & Easter Mon. Closed 1 Jan, 25 centre with playpark; they can
De Buitenplaats (De Buitenplaats Dec. & - be combined on a round tour.
museum of figurative art) was E Klompenmuseum
designed by the architects Gebroeders Wietzes
Alberts and Van Huut. It is a fine Wolfhorn 1a. Tel 0503091181. 6 Hondsrug
example of their organic Open AprOct: TueSun 25pm. Road Map E2. @ n VVVs in Zuid
architecture. In addition to laren (0504092333), Rolde, Gieten,
hosting changing exhibitions, the Exloo (0591549515), Borger,
museum is used as a concert hall. 5 Zuidlaren SchoonoOrd (0591381242)
There are also formal and and Emmen.
Road Map E2. * 10,000. @ n
landscape gardens, the former Stationsweg 69 (0504092333). ( Fri.
fronting the 17thcentury Between the Drentse sand
curators residence, the Nijsi- The colourful Zuidlaren horse plateau in the west and the
nghuis. Since 1983 the house has market, now the largest in DrentsGroningen peat moors
been painted by figurative artists Western Europe, predates even in the east lies the Hondsrug
and is periodically opened to the 13thcentury church which ridge. Prehistoric people found
visitors by arrangement. stands on the Brink. The market it a safe place to settle, and it is
The Eelde part of town is home is held in April and October. the area where the megaliths
to the Internationaal The 17thcentury Havezathe now stand (see pp31011).
Klompenmuseum (Gebroeders Laarwoud was built on the The Drentse Aa river basin,
Wietzes). Named in honour of remnants of the fortified the old villages of Gieten,
the last two clogmakers to live in residence of the counts of Gasselte, Exloo and Odoorn,
the village, the museum gives an Heiden, who ruled the region the drifting sand areas of the
overview of the development of in the 14th century. Today Drouwenerzand and the
the clog. It displays examples of it is the town hall. The heathland of Ellertsveld are
clogs from around the world. Zuidlaardermeer lake offers particularly attractive hiking
Most visitors, however, come to everything that watersports areas, with plenty of streams
see the worlds largest clog, enthusiasts may require. in which to cool off.
which is 6.5 m (21 ft) long. Children will especially enjoy In the centre of Eexloo, the
Bebinghehoes is a cultural
museum in a beautiful 18th
century, thatched farmhouse.
The house itself gives an
impression of farming life 200
years ago, while the coach house
presents a display of carriages
from the age of horsedrawn
transport. There is also a childrens
farm, with goats, sheep, chickens
and ducks, and a petting area.
E Bebinghehoes
Zuiderhoofdstraat 6. Tel 0591549242.
Open 1 Apr1 May: WedSat; May,
Colourfully decorated Klompenmuseum Gebroeders Wietzes Jun & Sep: TueSat; Jul & Aug: daily.
7 Rolde 0 Westerbork
Road Map E2. * 6,200. @ Road Map E2. * 8,000. @ 22.
n Onder de Molen, Grote Brink 22 n BG van Wezelplein 10 (0593-
(0592-241502). 331381).
Rolde was important for a The Hoofdstraat (main street)

considerable time. There are features a Late Gothic 14th-century
prehistoric tumuli (in the church, which now houses the
Tumulibos woods), and three Museum voor Papierknipkunst
megaliths, two of which are on (paper-cutting museum) and
the mound directly behind the Saxon farmhouses which bear
church. During the Middle Ages, witness to a prosperous past.
people were tried at the Boomkroonpads tree-top walkway, a However, Westerbork is visited
Balloorkuil; if guilty they were well-known tourist attraction primarily for its more recent history.
held prisoner in the 15th-century In World War II, the Westerbork
church, a magnificent Gothic interesting attraction. The walk Transit Camp stood here. It was
edifice. Forests, peatland and starts at the roots, with a 23-m from this camp that 107,000 Jews,
drifting sands surround the village. (75-ft) tunnel. This leads into a Gypsies and resistance fighters
Sheep graze on the Balloorveld. 125-m (410-ft) ascent to a height were held before deportation to
of 22.5 m (74 ft), affording a the Nazi concentration camps.
fascinating view of the forest. Anne Frank (see pp11213) was
8 Borger one of its inmates.
} Drents Boomkroonpad
Road Map E2. * 4,700. @ 59. n
Bezoekerscentrum, Drents Z Herinneringscentrum
Grote Brink 2a (0599-234855). ( Tue.
Boomkroonpad, Steenhopenweg 4, Kamp Westerbork
Borger is the capital of the Drouwen. Tel 0592-377305. Oosthalen 8, Hooghalen.
hunebeddengebeid, or mega- Open daily. Closed 1 Jan. & - Tel 0593-592600. Open daily. & 7
lith region. There are eight
megaliths in and around the
town, including the largest in 9 Orvelte q Dwingeloo
Holland. Nearby is the Nationaal Road Map E2. * 90. @ 22, 23. Road Map: D2. * 1,800. @ 20.
Hunebedden Informatiecentrum n Dorpsstraat 1a (0593-322335). n Brink 4b (0521-591000). ( Tue.
(t Flintn Hoes), with a fine exhib-
ition about the Beaker People The whole of Orvelte is in effect The first thing that strikes
and a stone casket from the an open-air museum. In the visitors about Dwingeloo is
most recently excavated mega- restored Saxon farmhouses the onion dome of the
lith, which was discovered in from the early 19th century, 14th-century church tower
1982 in Groningen. there are exhibits on agriculture (the Siepelkerk). You can read
and displays of traditional crafts. about the legend behind this
E Nationaal Hunebedden Cars are banned from the area, oddity on the information
Informatiecentrum but tours in horse-drawn trams board located nearby.
Bronnegerstraat 12. Tel 0599-236374. or covered wagons are offered. There is some impressive
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. The more interesting attrac- countryside around the town.
&7- tions of the town include a The Dwingelderveld is a
tinsmiths shop. national park and the
Environs krentenbossen (currant
Drents Boomkroonpad (tree- E Bezoekerscentrum plantations) which flower in
top walk), 2 km (1 mile) down Dorpsstraat 3. Tel 0593-322335. April and May the fruit
the Staatsbossen turn-off on Open AprOct daily. & 8 7 ripening in July or August are
the Rolde-Borger road, is an 0- delightful in every respect: they
are pleasant to the eye and to
the taste buds. At the edge of
the Dwingelose Heide heath is a
radio-telescope.
The interesting and child-
friendly Planetron nearby is an
observatory where there is a
planetarium as well as an
electronic games area.
Planetron
Drift 11b. Tel 0521-593535. Open daily
during school hols. Closed 1 Jan, Mon
Farmers at work in the Orvelte open-air museum outside school hols. & 0 -
DRENTHE 315
w Diever
Road Map D2. * 3,700. @ 20.
n Bosweg 2a (0521-591748).
Diever was an important centre

from prehistoric times to the
Middle Ages. Tumuli, megaliths
and remains of the 9th-century
wooden foundations of the
village church lend it historical
importance. The church features
a 12th-century Romanesque
tower of tufa stone. Diever is in
the middle of the Nationaal Brown bears in the popular Noorder Dierenpark in Emmen
Park Het Drents-Friese Woud:
the town is now synonymous past centuries. Stedelijk Museum O Noorder Dierenpark
with cycling and rambling. Drenthes Veste highlights the Hoofdstraat 18. Tel 0591-850855.
In summer, the Shakespeare- towns history. Open daily. & 7 - 0
markten (Shakespeare fair) is dierenparkemmen.nl
held during performances of E Stedelijk Museum
the playwrights works in the Drenthes Veste Environs
open-air theatre. Haven 6. Tel 0524-516225. Roughly 10 km (6 miles) east of
Open 9:305pm TueSat, noon Emmen are the Amsterdamsche
Environs 5pm Sun. & - Veld upland peat marshes,
In Vledder, 10 km (6 miles) perhaps the loneliest place in
west of Diever, is a museum of Holland. In Barger-Compascuum,
graphic art and glass-blowing r Emmen Veenpark re-creates the times
and art forgery. when the people of Drenthe
Road Map E2. * 105,000. @ v
n Hoofdstraat 22 (0591-649712).
lived in poverty, cutting peat. In
E Museum voor Valse Kunst/
( Fri am. 1883, Vincent van Gogh stayed
Museum voor Hedendaagse at the Scholte ferry-house in
Grafiek/ Museum voor Glaskunst A modern town, Emmen is the Veenoord (Nieuw-Amsterdam).
Brink 1, Vledder. Tel 0521-383352. Open result of the amalgamation of At the Van Gogh House, his
AprOct: 11am4pm WedSun; Nov several former villages. Eleven room on the first floor has
Dec: 11am4pm Sat & Sun. & 8 megaliths, including Langgraf op been restored to the way it
de Schimmer Es or long barrow was in 1883, as has the caf-
on the Schimmer Es, the urn- restaurant below.
fields (see p47) and prehistoric
farmland (the Celtic Fields) in the E Veenpark
vicinity and the 12th-century Berkenrode 4, Barger-Compascuum.
tower on the Hoofdstraat reflect Tel 0591-324444. Open AprNov:
the districts history. At Noorder 10am5pm daily. & 7 -
Dierenpark, animals roam freely. E Van Gogh Huis
The Biochron museum and Van Goghstraat 1, Nieuw-Amsterdam.
Vlindertuin butterfly gardens Tel 0591-555600. Open 15pm Tue
are also here. Sun. - 0 =
Lime kilns at in the village

of Diever
e Coevorden
Road Map E3. * 34,000. @ v
n Kerkstraat 2 (0524-525150).
( Mon.
The castle here dates from around

1200. The star-shaped moat and
surviving bastions and town walls
define the look of the town, while
the faades of the Friesestraat and
Weeshuisstraat are telling of Van Goghs Peat Boat with Two Figures (1883) in Drents Museum, Assen
OVERIJSSEL
Overijssel, a province in the east of Holland, has many areas of
natural beauty and lovely old towns. In a sense it is a province
of two halves, divided by the heathland and woods of the
Sallandse Heuvelrug near Nijverdal, which separate the
eastern district of Twente from the rest of the province.
This division is noticeable in many ways. Overijssels numerous unique

The two halves differ in their spoken museums and attractions highlight
dialect, and they each have their own local history and printing, tobacco, salt
cultural traditions. There are also religious and farmhouses, as well as traditional
differences, with Twente being mainly costumes, tin soldiers, Dutch painting
Catholic while the rest of the province is and modern art. For children, the
strictly Protestant. Twente, with its larger Hellendoorn adventure park (see p426),
towns, has a more modern appearance, the Los Hoes open-air museum and
and Enschede, for example, is livelier than Ecodrome Park are always popular.
western towns like Zwolle and Deventer. Apart from these activities, however,
Zwolle, however, is the capital of the the principal attraction in Overijssel is
province, a charming town dating back the countryside, which is ideal for walking,
to the 13th century, when its port at a busy hiking and touring by bicycle. In places
river junction led it to join the powerful like Giethoorn you can tour the rivers,
Hanseatic League, growing rich from lakes and canals by boat, while the
trade with England and the Baltic. Kampen Weerribben wetlands in the northwest
and Deventer, on the IJssel river, were later offer opportunities for nature rambles
members of the same league. and watersports.
Open-air dining at a restaurant in the historic town of Zwolle in Overijssel

Blue boats line a canal in the village of Giethoorn, Overijssel
Exploring Overijssel
The impressive historical monuments Oldemarkt
of Deventer and Kampen recall their Ossenzijl
prosperous pasts as Hanseatic cities. DE Steenwijk
WE
However, Overijssel has plenty to E R RIB
BE N
offer those who are interested in
more than splendid old buildings. GIETHOORN
Those who enjoy peace and natural Blokzijl
surroundings will find some of the
finest spots in Holland. The peaceful Belterwijde
countryside of the Sallandse Heuvelrug

is ideal for rambling, while De Weerribben VOLLENHOVE Rees
t
is suitable for yachting. There are Zwartsluis
many picturesque spots, such as STAPHORST
Genemuiden
Ootmarsum, Delden and Giethoorn,
and children will love the amusement Hasselt
Nieuwleusen
part at Hellendoorn (see p426). In
IJsselmuiden
addition to this, Overijssel also has KAMPEN
many interesting museums,
such as the national tin figure
museum in Ommen.
ZWOLLE Dalfsen
O ve
rijss
els
Heino
IJssel
Wijhe
Raalte
Olst
Diepenveen
DEVENTER
The quiet port of Blokzijl near Vollenhove
Overijssel at a Glance
1 Zwolle
2 Kampen
3 Vollenhove
4 De Weerribben
5 Giethoorn pp3223
6 Staphorst
7 Ommen
8 Deventer
9 Nijverdal
0 Delden
q Enschede
w Ootmarsum
The IJssel north of the old Hanseatic city of Deventer

OVERIJSSEL 319
Getting Around Key

Overijssel can be explored easily by car, bicycle Motorway
or on foot. Large parts of the region are also well Major road
connected by public transport. Note, however, that
Minor road
bus timetables are sketchier on weekends than
on weekdays. Areas of natural beauty such as De Scenic route
Weerribben, for example, are not easy to reach by Major railway
public transport on weekends. In some places, Minor railway
too, buses operate only during the daytime. Regional border
Dedemsvaart Gramsbergen
Hardenberg
ht
c
Ve
OMMEN
Westerhaar- Kasteel Rechteren by Dalfsen, near Zwolle

Vriezenveensewijk
Den Ham
Kan
aal
OVERIJSSEL
OOTMARSUM
Vriezenveen
Hellendoorn Tubbergen
Denekamp
Wierden
NIJVERDAL Almelo
Sallandse Rijssen Oldenzaal

Heuvelrug Borne
Enter
Holten
DELDEN Losser
Hengelo
Goor
Markelo
ENSCHEDE
Haaksbergen
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Farmhouse by the River Reest, separating Drenthe from Overijssel

1 Zwolle
Road Map D3. * 107,000. v
n Grote Kerkplein 15 (0900-
1122375). ( Fri (cattle market), Sat.
In the Middle Ages, Zwolle,

capital of the province of
Overijssel, was, along with towns
such as Deventer, Kampen and
Zutphen, a city of the Hanseatic
League, a network of trading
cities. Its past is evident in the
relatively large historical centre.
The finest buildings in Zwolle,
which was granted its city
charter in 1230, are largely to
be found in the area that used
to fall within the city fortifica-
tions, which can still be seen in View of Zwolle during the Hanseatic Period (anonymous, c.14th century)
the form of a moat. However,
only a few dozen metres of these by the likes of Van Gogh, Picasso Environs
ancient fortifications are left and Mondrian. The Kunstwegen (Art Paths)
standing, along with the fine The Stedelijk Museum are outdoor sculpture installa-
Sassenpoort gate, dating from Zwolle (Zwolle local history tions on the country estate of
1406, and the Late Gothic museum) features, among its Landgoed Anningahof. The
15th-century Pelsertoren tower. other interesting exhibits on five-hectare open-air sculpture
On one side of the Grote local history, an 18th-century park was the brainchild of art
Kerkplein is a sculpture by kitchen and a Renaissance room collector Hib Anninga and
Rodin entitled Adam, while from Blokzijl. The fine faade of contains dozens of works, from
on the Grote Markt stands the the old part of the building, which bright-blue ceramic dogs to
magnificent building of the dates from 1741, is impressive. giant iron hoops, by around 80
Hoofdwacht (guard house), The town is also home to contemporary Dutch sculptors.
which dates from 1614. the Ecodrome Park, which The work is spread throughout
The Grote Kerk, also known is dedicated to the natural meadows and landscaped
as St Michaelskerk, is worth environment in the past, gardens, and exploring
a visit as well. The original present and future. them makes for a pleasant
Romanesque church, built in afternoons stroll.
1040, was enlarged in 1370 E Stedelijk Museum Zwolle
and again in 1452 to become Melkmarkt 41. Tel 038-4214650. E Landgoed Anningahof
the present-day three-naved Open 11am5pm TueSun. Closed Hessenweg 9. Tel 038-4534412.
Gothic church. public hols. - & d p = Open MayOct: WedSun.
The most recent addition
O Ecodrome Park
to Zwolles cultural landscape
is the Paleis aan de Blijmarkt, a Willemsvaart 19. Tel 038-4237030.
Open NovMar: 10am5pm Wed, Sat
2 Kampen
contemporary art museum that
& Sun; AprOct: 10am5pm daily. - Road Map D3. * 48,000. v
opened in 2005. Housed in a n Oudestraat 41 (038-3313500).
grand Neo-Classical building E Paleis aan de Blijmarkt
( Mon am.
dating from 1838, the renovated Blijmarkt 20. Tel 0572-388188.
light-filled galleries hold works Open 11am5pm TueSun. Kampen, known for its
theological university where
Protestant theologians are
educated, is a pleasant and
lively town containing 500
historic buildings. The beauty
of this former Hanseatic city is
immediately apparent from
the IJssel riverfront. The fact
that the town used to be
well fortified is evident from
the three remaining town
gates: the Koornmanspoort,
the Broederpoort and the
Cellebroederspoort. The area
The grand Neo-Classical faade of the Paleis aan de Blijmarkt inside the old fortifications
OVERIJSSEL 321
The waterfront of the magnificent, well-preserved Hanseatic city of Kampen on the river IJssel
features the magnificent E Stedelijk Museum Kampen 3 Vollenhove

Dutch Reformed church St Oude Straat 133. Tel 038-3317361.
Open 11am5pm TueSat. Road Map D2. @ 71, 171. n Aan
Nicolaaskerk, and the Gotische Zee 24 (0900-5674637). ( Tue.
Huis, which now houses the E Kamper Tabaksmuseum
Stedelijk Museum Kampen, Botermarkt 3. Tel 038-3315868. Vollenhove is a picturesque
the towns local history museum. Open by appointment only. place which was once known as
Particularly noteworthy is the E Ikonenmuseum the town of palaces due to the
old town hall, or Oude Raadhuis, Buitennieuwstraat 2. Tel 038-3858483. many nobles who lived here.
with a faade decorated with Open 1 Apr1 Nov: TueSat; The aristocratic residences are
fine sculptures. 1 Jun1 Sep: daily. known as havezaten, or manors.
Kampen, which The large 15th-century church
is first mentioned in Environs is variously referred to as the
documents in 1227, Five km (3 miles) Grote Kerk, St Nicolaaskerk
is also famed for its south of the town, or Bovenkerk.
cigars, which explains in Kamperveen, is
why the Kamper the Hertenhouderij
Tabaksmuseum Edelveen, a working 4 De Weerribben
(Kampen tobacco deer farm that
Road Map D3.
museum) is located welcomes visitors.
here. A rather more The owners give De Weerribben is an unspoiled
surprising find is the guided tours of area of wetlands at the north-
Ikonenmuseum, a their farmland, western end of Overijssel. There
collection of religious Religious image at the explaining their is plenty for cyclists, walkers and
icons and the only Ikonenmuseum jobs and allowing also canoeists to do in this
museum of its kind in visitors to see their beautiful nature reserve.
the Netherlands. The museum herds close up. The farmers also
is housed in a former cloister, sell venison, pt and sausages. } Natuuractiviteitencentrum
and is home to 150 mainly Russian De Weerribben
and Greek Orthodox painted E Hertenhouderij Hoogeweg 27, Ossenzijl. Tel 0561-
icons, spanning the 16th to Edelveen: Leidijk 10a. Tel 0525- 477272. Open AprOct: daily; Nov
19th centuries. It also hosts 621564. Open by appointment only. Mar: TueFri & Sun. 0 -
temporary exhibitions.
Kampen was at the height
of its development between
1330 and 1450. It revived its
fortunes only when the Flevoland
and Noordoostpolder regions
were reclaimed and it acquired
the function of regional centre.
However, Kampen was never a
mighty city because it did not
have any powerful ruler. Kampen
did not apply to join the Hanseatic
League until relatively late 1440.
At that time, the Netherlands was
involved in a war with the
Hanseatic League, and Kampen
joined the powerful league for
the sake of security. Water lilies in the nature reserve of De Weerribben
5 Street-by-Street: Giethoorn Giethoorn is also known

as the Green Venice
If any village were to be given the title prettiest village because of its abundant
in Holland, quaint Giethoorn would be the one. This well- natural beauty. Several
deserved accolade is due to the villages picturesque canals ponds and lakes surround
this charming town. The
which are flanked by numerous farmhouse-style buildings. best way to enjoy the
A few of these buildings now contain interesting, if small, area is by hiring a
museums. The village of Giethoorn can be easily explored small boat.
both by boat and by bicycle. Founded in 1230 by religious
refugees, the villages distinctive form came about from peat-
cutting, eventually resulting in the formation of ponds and
lakes. The small canals were used for transporting peat.
. Tjaskermolen
This windmill, which
turns an Archimedes
screw, is located in
Giethoorn-Noord.
Another one can be
seen in the Olde Maat
AD
Uus museum.
NP
NE
BIN
. Olde Maat Uus

This pleasant farmhouse which
has been converted into a
museum should definitely
not be missed. It illustrates life
in Giethoorn as it used to be.
Key
Walking route
Boat route
Waterway
The delightful houses of

Giethoorn contain numerous and
varied tourist attractions, giving 0 metres 50
visitors plenty to do on each visit. 0 yards 50
OVERIJSSEL 323
Islands in the area are a direct

VISITORS CHECKLIST
result of peat-cutting, which led to
the creation of lakes and canals,
giving Giethoorn its many little
Road Map D2.
islands, connected by the
* 2,500. n Eendrachtsplein 1
villages characteristic
(0521-362124). _ Street Theatre
footbridges.
Festival: Jun; Rock Around
Giethoorn Punt Race: Jul; Gondola
Regatta: various times; Sailing
Punt Race, Blues Festival, Punt
Race: Aug; Slag op t Wiede: Sep;
Christmas Fair & Story Telling
Festival: Dec.
Transport
@ 70, 79.
. Punts
Punts were formerly used to
carry peat along the canals of
Giethoorn. They are now used
for tourist trips; you can also
occasionally catch glimpses of
them in the villages old
ditches and channels.
Reeds
The countryside around Giethoorn
abounds with lakes and ponds. The
reeds which grow along their banks
are used to make cane furniture
and to thatch roofs.
Tourist Boats
There are many places in Giethoorn where
you can hire quiet, electrically powered boats.
8 Deventer
Road Map D3. * 86,000.
n Brink 56 (0570-710120).
( Fri am & Sat.
The lively centre of the old

Hanseatic city of Deventer
features numerous medieval
houses, including the oldest
stone house in Holland today.
Buildings worth seeing in
particular are those situated on
the pleasant Brink (green) and
the Bergkerk. In the middle of
Deventer, larger than Amsterdam in its heyday the Brink stands the impressive
Waag (weigh house) from 1528,
6 Staphorst museums, including the which now contains the VVV
Road Map D3. * 15,000. @ 40.
Nationaal Tinnen Figuren and the renovated Historisch
n Binnenweg 26 (0522-467400). Museum (national tin Museum de Waag, with
^ Sun. ( Wed am. models museum). exhibits that illustrate the
towns history. On the first
Staphorst is known throughout E Nationaal Tinnen Sunday of August, the
Holland as a stronghold of strict Figuren Museum town holds the Deventer
Christian beliefs. It was where the Markt 1. Tel 0529-454500. Boekenmarkt (book fair),
Gereformeerde Bond (reformed Open AprOct: 11am5pm the largest in Europe. It is
union), one of the strictest TueSat, 15pm Sun & hols; A tin soldier preceded by a poetry festival.
embodiments of Protestantism, NovMar: 11am5pm Sat,
ruled within the Dutch Reformed 15pm Sun & hols. E Historisch Museum de Waag
Church. Many of the lovely old Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & Brink 56. Tel 0570-693783. Open
farmhouses, painted in a charac- 10am5pm TueSat, 15pm Sun.
teristic green and blue, are Environs Closed public hols. & =
monumental buildings. To get an To find out more about the
idea of what they once looked nature reserves in Ommen, visit
like, visit the Museum Staphorst. the Natuurinformatiecentrum 9 Nijverdal
The townspeople continue to Ommen, which houses a
Road Map D3. * 23,500.
wear traditional dress, a custom permanent exhibition illustrating n Willem Alexander Straat 7c
which has practically vanished the cultural history of the (0540-612729). ( Sat.
elsewhere in the country. surrounding countryside.
Throughout Staphorst you will Particularly worth seeing are The impressive beauty of the
see women, especially elderly the typical Saxon farmhouses Sallandse Heuvelrug, with its
women, wearing the blue and at Beerze, Junne, Stegeren, fine heathland and woodland,
black outfits. Besthem and Giethmen. is especially apparent at
Nijverdaal. This is the last
E Museum Staphorst } Natuurinformatie remaining breeding ground
Gemeenteweg 67. Tel 0522-462526. centrum Ommen in the Netherlands for black
Open AprOct: 10am5pm TueSat. Hammerweg 59a. Tel 0529-450702. grouse. An interesting
Closed Sun, Mon & hols. & Open MayOct: 15pm WedSun; exhibition on the Heuvelrug
museumstaphorst.nl NovApr: 1:304pm Wed, Sat & Sun. region can be seen at the
7 Ommen
Road Map D3. * 17,000.
n Kruisstraat 6 (0900-1122375).
( Tue am.
The district of Ommen lies in

stunningly beautiful countryside
extending from the town to
nearby villages and hamlets.
One-third of its total area of
18,000 ha (44,500 acres) is covered
by nature reserves and forests. A
former Hanseatic city, Ommen
itself is home to a few interesting Flock of sheep in Sallandse Heuvelrug
OVERIJSSEL 325
Bezoekerscentrum Sallandse q Enschede

Heuvelrug (Sallandse
Road Map: E3. * 150,000.
Heuvelrug visitors centre), n Stationsplein 1a (053-4323200).
with its clever and unusual ( Tue, Sat.
Foresters Corner.
Enschede is regarded as the
} Bezoekerscentrum capital of Twente, as it is the
Sallandse Heuvelrug largest town in Overijssel. It was
Grotestraat 281. Tel 0548-612711. devastated in 1862 by a fire
Open AprOct: 10am5pm TueSun; little of the old town survived.
NovMar: 10am4pm TueSun. One of the few historical build-
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 25 & 31 Dec. ings that can still be seen in the
otherwise pleasant centre is the
Environs Grote Kerk on the Oude Markt.
Avonturenpark Hellendoorn In addition to this centre,
(Hellendoorn adventure park) with its theatres, concert halls
(see p426) is great for children. and cinemas, Enschede has a
number of museums, of which
the Rijksmuseum Twenthe
0 Delden should not be missed. The
Road Map E3. * 7,000.
exhibits here range from manu-
n Langestraat 29 (074-3761363). scripts and paintings to modern,
( Fri afternoon. primarily Dutch, art. Stained glass in the 13th-century Catholic
Miracle Planet Boulevard, church at Ootmarsum
Delden is a pretty residential just outside town, offers non-
village, ideal for walks. This stop entertainment in three for an open-air museum. Places
Twente hamlet has a number mega-complexes. of interest not to be missed
of attractions, including the include the Roman Catholic
Zoutmuseum (salt museum) E Rijksmuseum Twenthe church, the only Westphalian
and the 12th-century Lasondersingel 129131. hall-type church in Holland, built
Oude Blasiuskerk. Tel 053-4358675. Open 11am5pm between 1200 and 1300. Here
TueSun & hols. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. you can see the burial vaults and
E Zoutmuseum &0= some impressive works of art.
Langestraat 30. Tel 074-3764546. The rococo former town hall
Open MaySep: 11am5pm MonFri, dates from 1778 and is now the
25pm Sat & Sun; OctApr: 25pm w Ootmarsum VVV (tourist) office. There are also
TueFri & Sun. & some interesting old draw-wells.
Road Map E3. * 4,000. @ 64 from
Almelo. n Markt 9 (0541-291214).
The Openluchtmuseum
Environs ( Thu am. Los Hoes (Los Hoes open-air
Some 2 km (1.2 miles) northeast museum), showing what life
of Delden are the lovely gardens The village of Ootmarsum is was once like in Twente, is also
of Kasteel Twickel. one of the prettiest places in all worth a visit.
of Holland. On the map since
E Tuinen Kasteel Twickel 900, Ootmarsum was granted E Openluchtmuseum Los Hoes
(Kasteel Twickel Gardens) its town charter in 1300. It has Smithuisstraat 2. Tel 0541-293099.
Twickelerlaan 1a, Ambt Delden. grown little since then; indeed, Open 10am5pm daily (DecJan:
Tel 074-3761020. Open MayOct: not much has changed here weekends only & Christmas hols). &
10am5pm WedSun. & at all, making it quite suitable
Environs
Nature lovers will find plenty
to do in the countryside surr-
ounding Ootmarsum, which is
located in one of the finest parts
of Twente. The landscape offers
an ever-changing scenery,
with its rushing brooks, old
watermills, woodland paths,
prehistoric tumuli and
Saxon farmhouses.
The viewing point on the
Kuiperberg affords a stunning
vista over the entire Twente
region and provides the place
The half-timbered Stiepelhoes in Ootmarsum, dating from 1658 names of the various sights.
FLEVOLAND 327
FLEVOLAND
Flevoland is Hollands youngest province, constructed
by the Dutch entirely out of water, sandbanks and mud
flats, thanks to massive reclamation schemes which
created dykes and polders (reclaimed land, sometimes
below sea level) from the turbulent Zuiderzee
following an Act of Parliament in 1918.
This act provided funds for damming occasional village here and there.
the northeastern part of the Zuiderzee However, as the built-up areas around
and reclaiming the land behind the Amsterdam and Utrecht became
dykes. When the Afsluitdijk was completed increasingly congested, new towns
in 1932, drainage works on the have grown up. The conurbation around
Noordostpolder began and, with the Almere, with its highly impressive
seawater pumped out, the islands of modern architecture, is among these.
Urk and Schokland and the town of Other towns include Lelystad, with its
Emmeloord became by 1942 a part of several modern museums, and Dronten,
the mainland. Further schemes to the where the Walibi World amusement
south and southwest were completed park proves an irresistible magnet for
in 1957 and 1968 respectively, and since younger visitors. Lelystad, whose name
1986 these three new polders have honours Cornelius Lely, the genius
officially constituted the Netherlands behind the massive land creation project
newest province, named Flevoland after (see p330), is the provincial capital. There
Flevo Lacus, the original name given to are many other attractions for visitors
the Zuiderzee by the Roman historian to this compact and attractive region,
Pliny nearly 2,000 years ago. including a number of fascinating
Initially, the idea had been to use museums featuring subjects as varied
the polders as farmland only, with the as archaeology and World War II.
The exotic spoonbill, an icon of the new wildlife in Flevoland

Farms and polder landscape in Emmeloord
Exploring Flevoland
The Noordoostpolder, which is the northernmost part of
Flevoland, is distinguished by its polder landscape and its
rich farmland, fruit orchards and bulb fields. There are also
many young forests, which are good for walking in. Apart
from the main town of Emmeloord, there are a number of
small new villages, as well as the old fishing village of Urk.
Oostelijk (eastern) and Zuidelijk (southern) Flevoland are
relatively sparsely populated and have a lot of greenery.
Between Almere, the largest town of Flevoland, characterized The picturesque harbour of the fishing
by modern architecture, and Lelystad, the provincial capital, village of Urk
there stretches a fine nature reserve known as the
Oostvaardersplassen, or Oostvaarder lakes. The coastal
lakes have inviting sand beaches and marinas.
Sights at a Glance
1 Emmeloord 8 Bataviawerf
Ma
2 Urk 9 Oostvaardersplassen
rke
rw
3 Nagele 0 Knardijk
aar
4 Schokland
ddij
q Zeewolde
k
5 Swifterbant w Almere
6 Dronten
7 Lelystad
Markermeer
LELYSTAD
BATAVIAWERF
EN
Natuurpark
Lelystad
SS
A
L
SP
R
DE
AR
VA
ST
OO Knarbos
Almere-Buiten
KNARDIJK
ALMERE Zuidelijk-
Flevoland
Almere-Haven
Boats moored at Almere harbour
ZEEWOLDE
Key Hor ster wold
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
Regional border
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10

FLEVOLAND 329
Rutten
Bant
Creil
Espel
Marknesse
EMMELOORD
Noordoostpolder
URK
The Poldertoren in the small

NAGELE town of Emmeloord
Ens
Schokkerbos eer
ND tem
SCHOKLA Z war
Ketelmeer
Ketelbos
SWIFTERBANT
FLEVOLAND
DRONTEN
Oostelijk-
Flevoland
Biddinghuizen
The Ketelbrug bridge over the Ketelmeer

er
me
we
lu
Ve
Getting Around
Flevoland has an efficient road network.
All the municipalities in the region are easily
accessible by car or bus. Long-distance
coaches cover both the Lelystad-Emmeloord
and Lelystad-Dronten routes. Almere and
Lelystad can also be reached by train, and a
ferry links Urk and Enkhuizen during July and
August. The flat, expansive landscape of
Flevoland also makes exploration by bicycle ideal.
Numerous excellent cycling and hiking routes
have been laid out throughout the province. Flat farmland of Flevoland
1 Emmeloord boulder clay. Even after the polder

Road Map D2. Noordoostpolder.
was drained, Urk managed to
* 25,600. @ n De Deel 25a retain its character in the middle
(0527-612000). ( Thu am. of the new land surrounding it.
Some of the older residents wear
When the oldest polder the traditional dress, though this
in Flevoland was drained, is increasingly rare.
Emmeloord sprang up like a Beside the old village centre,
pioneer settlement. Over the the fishing quay, the lighthouse
years it has developed into a (1844) and the little church (1786) Schokland before land
pleasant town. It is the main town are worth a look. In the Museum reclamation
of the municipality of Noordoo- Het Oude Raadhuis, situated in
stpolder, encompassing groen the old town hall, you can find
dorps (green villages). Emmeloord out about the history of Urk and
is known mainly for its octagonal the fishing industry.
Poldertoren, a water tower
topped by a 5-m (16-ft) wind E Museum Het
vane in the shape of an old Oude Raadhuis
merchant ship; the tower is 65-m Wijk 23. Tel 0527-683262.
(214-ft) high and was built in 1959. Open AprOct: 10am5pm MonFri,
The carillon, one of Hollands 10am4pm Sat; NovMar: 10am4pm
biggest, has 48 chimes. The viewing MonSat. & 7 = 8
platform (open in summer) offers Schokland after land
a view of the polder. reclamation
3 Nagele
Road Map D3. * 1,900. @ E Museum Nagele
2 Urk n Emmeloord (0527-612000). Ring 23. Tel 0527-653077.
Road Map C3. * 20,000. g from Open 15pm ThuSun. Closed 1 Jan,
Enkhuizen, summer only. @ n Wijk This village was built in the 25, 26 & 31 Dec. & 7 = 0
23 (0527-684040). ( Sat am. 1950s to designs by the De
Acht en de Opbouw, a group
The fishing village of Urk attracts of architects which included the 4 Schokland
many tourists with its sloping famous Rietveld, Van Eyck and
Road Map C3. @ n see museum.
alleys and charming fishermens van Eesteren, who represented
cottages. Until the Zuiderzee the Nieuwe Bouwen movement. Like Urk, Schokland was
was drained, Urk was an island. The flat-roofed residential once an island. Archaeological
Some 1,000 years ago, the island buildings surround a park-like finds show that the site was
was much larger and had five centre with shops, schools and inhabited in prehistoric times.
villages; flooding gradually churches. The village is surrounded In 1859, the population had to
reduced its size. The towns- by a belt of woodland. Museum abandon the island because it
people moved to the highest Nagele provides information was disappearing into the sea.
point on the island, a hill of about the villages architecture. Today the island is so tiny that
it can barely be seen.
Museum Schokland,
Cornelis Lely (18541929) consisting of the restored
Flevoland has come into existence thanks largely to the church and reconstructions
plans and ambitions of civil engineer Cornelis Lely. of fishermens cottages, is
From 1885 to 1891, as a member of the dedicated to geology and
Zuiderzeevereniging (Zuiderzee Society), he local history from the Ice
was responsible for studying the possibility Age up until the land was
of closing off and draining the Zuiderzee. reclaimed. At the south end
His appointment as minister for trade and of the village are the ruins
industry in 1891 gave him the chance to of a medieval church. In the
convince the government and parliament Schokkerbos forest to the
how necessary it was to tame the
west is the Gesteentetuin,
unpredictable Zuiderzee, though it was
gardens featuring Ice
not until his third term in office (191318)
that the law for retaining and draining the Age boulders.
Zuiderzee was finally passed. Apart from the
Zuiderzee projects, Lely worked to improve E Museum Schokland
the Noorzeekanaal. From 1902 to 1905 he Middelbuurt 3, Ens. Tel 0527-251396.
was governor of Suriname. He died in Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueSun
1929, but his name lives on in that of (Jul & Aug: daily); NovMar: 11am
Flevolands capital, Lelystad. Statue of Lely 5pm FriSun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
&70
FLEVOLAND 331
5 Swifterbant Environs
E Nieuw Land Erfgoedcentrum
Oostvaardersdijk 113. Tel 0320-
Road Map C3. * 6,500. @
Around Dronten are many
225900. Open 10am5pm TueFri,
n De Rede 8082, Dronten (0321- pretty woods and recreation 11:30am5pm Sat & Sun.
313802). ( Tue pm. areas that offer opportunities Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
for walking and cycling. &8-07
This young village is known
primarily to archaeologists Y Natuurpark Lelystad
for the flint tools and earthen- 7 Lelystad Vlotgrasweg 11. Tel 0320-286111.
Open sunrisesunset daily.
ware of the Swifterbant
Road Map C3. * 67,000. @ 8 by appt. 0 =
culture that were unearthed n Bataviaplein 60 (0320-292900).
here. The Swifterbant culture ( Sat (Gordiaan), Tue (Lelycentre). Y Nationaal Luchtvaart
inhabited the region in the Themapark Aviodrome
4th millennium BC. Lelystad, a provincial capital, Pelikaanweg 50, Luchthaven Lelystad.
In spring, flower enthusiasts has a modern centre with a Tel 0320-289842. Open 10am5pm
can enjoy the riot of vivid number of outstanding buildings. TueSun (Mon in Jul, Aug & school
colour in the nearby bulbfields. The cylindrical Nieuw Land hols). Closed 25 Dec. & 0 = 7
Erfgoedcentrum has models
Environs and audiovisual materials
The Swifterbos forest nearby is illustrating the history of the 8 Bataviawerf
an excellent spot for recreation. fight against the sea, of the Road Map C3. Oostvaardersdijk 0109,
The Ketelbos is a resting place land reclamation and of the Lelystad. Tel 0320-261409. Open 10am
for migrant bird species. culture of the Zuiderzee. 5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
On the Airship Plaza is the 8 - = bataviawerf.nl
Zepallon museum of balloon
6 Dronten and airship flight. East of the From 1985 to 1995, a replica of
town is Natuurpark Lelystad, the Dutch East India Company
Road Map D3. * 22,500. @
n De Rede 8082 (0321-313802). where there are animals ship Batavia (see p262) was
( Wed. such as bison and Przewalski built at the Bataviawerf on the
horses. As well as cycling Oostvaardersdiep. The shipyards
Dronten is well-endowed and pedestrian paths, the current project is a replica of
with greenery and recreation park boasts a shipwreck the 17th-century De Zeven
facilities. The Meerpaal Complex and a reconstructed prehistoric Provincin. Visit the sailmaking
here combines a theatre, village. The Nationaal Luchtvaart and woodcarving workshops.
cinema and events venue. Themapark Aviodrome, at The entry ticket is also valid for
Outside the town hall stands Lelystad airport, has historic NISA, the Netherlands Institute
the Airgunnersmonument, aircraft, a cinema and a for Submarine Archaeology,
honouring airmen who lost reconstruction of Schiphol with its fascinating display
their lives in World War II. Station from 1928. on shipwrecks.
The Batavia, which went down off the Australian coast in 1629 with 341 people on board
Observation huts on the Oostvaardersplassen lakes, situated amid abundant bird populations
9 Oostvaarders 5-km (3-mile) walking route, to nature lovers, as it offers a fine

plassen open sunrise to sunset. The route view of the Oostvaardersplassen
starts at the information centre lakes. A great many birds live at
Road Map C3. n Staatsbosbeheer,
and passes by natural woodland, the foot of the dyke, including
Bezoekerscentrum, Kitsweg 1, Lelystad
(0320-254585). lakes and observation huts. hen harriers and marsh harriers.
Two bird-watching huts can also
Between Lelystad and Almere 0 Knardijk be reached along the dyke. The
is internationally renowned dyke leads in a southeasterly
Road Map C3. n Staatsbosbeheer
marshland covering 6,000 ha direction along the nature reserve
(0320-254585).
(14,825 acres). The land was known as the Wilgenreservaat,
originally earmarked as an The Knardijk marks the border which has evolved naturally
industrial area. When Zuidelijk between Oostelijk and Zuidelijk into a mixture of woodland
Flevoland was drained, the Flevoland (eastern and southern and clearings. Many songbirds,
low-lying area beyond the Flevoland). It was built in the woodland birds, and birds of prey
Oostvaardersdijk remained a 1950s between the island of are to be found here, as are deer,
wetland. Plans to drain this area Lelystad-Haven and Harderwijk foxes, polecats
were put forward but were to enable the entire area and ermines.
ultimately dismissed because to be placed Part of the
the place had by this time within a reserve can be seen
become an area of unique polder at one via a circular path. Nearby
natural interest. time. After is the Knarbos forest,
The nature reserve includes Oostelijk Flevoland had been Hen harrier also boasting a variety
lakes, mud flats, marshes, willow dried out, it formed the south- of flora and fauna. A 6-km
thickets and grasslands and serves western ring dyke of this polder. (4-mile) hiking route has been
as a port of call for hundreds of The Knardijk is of great interest marked out.
species of birds that come here
to forage and feed. Indeed, some
birds which have been unable to
settle elsewhere have found their
place here, including the hen
harrier (the symbol of Flevoland)
and the great cormorant. Other
birds seen here include the great
bittern, the Eurasian spoonbill,
heron, rail and, more recently,
the sacred ibis. The many grey
geese that forage here, along
with the wild cattle, wild horses
and red deer that occur here,
have helped the regions
vegetation to proliferate.
The marshland is largely off-
limits to visitors, but some fine
views are to be had from the edge
of the swamp, the Oostvaardersdijk
and the Knardijk. Additionally, the
region of De Driehoek has a The Knardijk, looking out over a variegated natural landscape
FLEVOLAND 333
q Zeewolde
Road Map C3. * 19,400. @
n Raadhuisstraat 1 (036-5221405).
( Fri.
With its picturesque marina, this

village on the Wolderwijd coastal
lake is a popular recreational spot.
Zeewolde is the youngest town
in Flevoland, having officially
become a municipality in 1984.
Its youth is evident from the
imaginative architecture, partic-
ularly that of the town hall, library
and church. An enjoyable 7-km
(4-mile) walking route has been
laid out in and around Zeewolde,
with landscape art along the Almere, a laboratory for modern architects
way (for information, call De
Verbeelding, 036-5227037). earlier. Almere today consists of Environs
three centres: Almere-Stad, which Near Almere are many
Environs is undergoing major renovation recreation areas and nature
South of Zeewolde is the and is where all the facilities are; reserves: the Weerwater;
Horsterwold, which is the Almere-Buiten, which is a green the Leegwaterplas lake; the
largest deciduous forest in suburb; and Almere-Haven, with Beginbos forest, with walking,
Western Europe. its lovely marina. If you are cycling and bridleways; the
interested in modern and unusual Buitenhout; the Kromslootpark,
architecture, the districts to visit with its polder vegetation;
w Almere are Muziewijk, Filmwijk and the lakes of Noorderplassen;
Road Map C3. * 176,000. @
Stedenwijk in Almere-Stad, and Lepelaarsplassen, where rare
n De Diagonaal 199 (036-5485041). the colourful Regenboogbuurt wading birds occur; and the
( Wed & Sat (Almere-Stad), Thu (rainbow neighbourhood) in Oostvaardersplassen.
(Almere-Buiten), Fri (Almere-Haven). Almere-Buiten. Also worth a
visit are the town hall, and the ACHK De Paviljoens
Almere is Hollands fastest- Almeers Centrum Hedendaagse Odeonstraat 35.
growing town. Its name recalls Kunst ACHK De Paviljoens Tel 036-5450400. Open noon5pm
the 8th-century name for the (Almere centre for modern art), WedSun (to 9pm Thu & Fri).
Zuiderzee. The earliest signs of with works by late 20th-century Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
habitation date from 65 centuries Dutch and foreign artists. &=
Landscape Art
In the countryside around Flevoland
you will come across unusual and
distinctive works of landscape art. These
are associated with various features of
the landscape. East of Almere-Haven, for
instance, is the Groene Kathedraal (Green
Cathedral) (top photo), designed by
Marinus Boezem and consisting of 178
Lombardy poplars planted to re-create
the outline and pillars of Reims Cathedral.
The Observatorium Robert Morris (bottom
photo) consists of two round earth
embankments, with three notches in
them from which the sunrise can be
observed when the seasons change.
On the Ketelmeerdijk, you will find Cyriel
Lixenbergs Wachters op de Dijk (Watchmen
on the Dyke), consisting of a circle, a
triangle and a square. Piet Slegers Aardzee
(Earth Sea), situated between Zeewolde and
Lelystad, consists of a series of elongated
artificial ridges resembling waves.
GELDERLAND
Gelderland is the Netherlands largest province. Its name
derives from the 11th-century county of Gelre, which
was linked with the town of Geldern, just over the
border in Germany. The town was the fiefdom of Gerard
de Rossige, whose grandson Gerard II of Wassenberg
pronounced himself Count of Gelre in 1104.
Succeeding counts skilfully expanded that welcome visitors throughout the

their territory to include the Veluwe region province. In more recent times, the region,
to the north, the Betuwe in the southwest and especially the strategically located
and the county of Zutphen (see p345). towns of Arnhem and Nijmegen, saw
When, in 1248, the imperial town of heavy fighting towards the end of World
Nijmegen was annexed, Gelre became a War II. The heroic action at Arnhem is
power to be reckoned with. A number of its remembered in the towns Airborne
towns joined the Hanseatic League, and in Museum, while the museum in Nijmegen
1339 the county was promoted to a duchy recalls this towns long history from
by the German emperor. The increasing pre-Roman times to the tyranny of the
power of the Habsburgs threatened the Holy Roman Empire.
independence of the Gelders, eventually While visitors can enjoy many modern
leading to the duke having to cede the attractions, perhaps Gelderlands greatest
territory in 1543 to Charles V. Gelderland asset is its contrasting natural scenery,
thus became part of the Netherlands. which ranges from heaths and woodlands
This colourful history is manifest in the north to the beautiful Betuwe river
today in the number of medieval buildings, valley and the pretty agricultural region
churches, castles and fortified towns of the Achterhoek.
A 17th-century granary near Winterswijk

A glimpse into the old Dutch city of Nijmegen
Exploring Gelderland
Gelderland is made up of three distinct regions. In the north
is the Veluwe, an extensive natural area of woodland, heaths
and large tracts of drifting sand, where those looking for
peaceful natural surroundings can find exactly that. To the
east is the Achterhoek. This region, too, is rich in natural
beauty but has a completely different character: it consists
of small fields with wooden fences, old farms, stately homes
and castles. In the southwest of the province, between the
Rhine, the Maas and the Waal rivers, is the river-valley region The Dolphinarium in Harderwijk
of the Betuwe. This area is distinguished by its many small
dykes and river banks, which offer ample opportunities for ELBURG
cycling and walking.
er
me
u we
Vel
NUNSPEET
Sights at a Glance HARDERWIJK

1 Paleis Het Loo pp3389 r Bronkhorst
2 Apeldoorn t Vorden Ermelo
3 Hattem y Lochem Elspeet
4 Elburg u Winterswijk
Putten
5 Nunspeet i s-Heerenberg
6 Harderwijk o Montferland
7 Nijkerk p Doesburg
NIJKERK
8 Barneveld a Nijmegen pp3467 Voorthuizen
9 Wageningen s Gelderse Poort
Hoevelaken
0 Krller-Mller Museum d Groesbeek
pp3423 f Tiel
q Nationaal Park De Hoge g Culemborg
BARNEVELD
Veluwe h Buren KRLLER-MLLER
w Arnhem j Zaltbommel
MUSEUM
Lunteren
Scherpenzeel Otterlo
e Zutphen
NATIONAAL PARK DE
HOGE VELUWE
Ede
Bennekom
Renkum
Lek WAGENINGEN
ijn
CULEMBORG Maurik er R
Ned
Kesteren Zetten
Elst
BUREN
TIEL Druten
Asperen
Waa
Geldermalsen Beneden- l
Leeuwen Beuningen
Waal gse Maas NIJMEGEN

Ber
Brakel
Megen Wijchen
ZALTBOMMEL
Malden
Kerkdriel
Grave
Ammerzoden
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5

GELDERLAND 337
Getting Around
Gelderland has an excellent road network. A
number of major motorways pass through the
province, including the A2 and the A50. Public
transport is also good. Many towns have rail
links, and the bus will even take you deep into
the Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe. The
numerous bicycle tracks and footpaths allow
the province to be conveniently explored either
on foot or by bicycle. Cycling routes of varying
lengths are well marked, and there are several
walking routes across the province, including
HATTEM The majestic red deer king of the very scenic Maarten van Rossum route.
Wezep the Veluwe
l
IJsse
Heerde
Epe
Vaassen
PALEIS HET LOO The Veluwe, characterized by large sandy areas
Gorssel
APELDOORN Laren
Voorst
LOCHEM Neede
ZUTPHEN
Eerbeek Borculo
VORDEN Eibergen
BRONKHORST Ruurlo
GELDERLAND
Groenlo
Dieren Hengelo
Rheden Zelhem
DOESBURG Lievelde
Velp
ARNHEM IJss e l Lichtenvoorde WINTERSWIJK

Doetinchem
Duiven Didam
Varsseveld
MONTFERLAND
Ne
Zevenaar Aalten
de
Beek Terborg
rR
ij n Zeddam
GELDERSE
POORT s-HEERENBERG Dinxperlo
Millingen
aan den Rijn Key
Motorway
Major road
GROESBEEK Minor road

Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Bronkhorst, the Netherlands smallest town
1 Paleis Het Loo

The Stadholder William III built the elegant palace of Het
Loo in 1692 as a hunting lodge. For generations, the
Orange family used it as a summer residence. Its pomp
and splendour have led to it being dubbed the Versailles
of the Netherlands. Its main architect was Jacob Roman
(16401716); the interior and the gardens were designed
by Daniel Marot (16611752). The severe Classical faade
belies the ornate interior. After intensive restoration work
Coat of Arms (1690) of William
was carried out, the palace is now open as a museum. and Mary, future king and
queen of England.
. Bedroom of the Stadholder William III (1713)

The wall coverings and draperies in this bedroom are
of rich orange damask and purple silk.
KEY
1 William IIIs bedroom

2 Closet of the Stadholder William III
(1690) The walls of Williams private
chamber are covered in scarlet damask.
His paintings and Delftware are on
display here.
3 Kings Garden
4 Mary IIs bedroom
5 Queens Garden
6 The throne room now contains the
original designs for the gardens.
7 Library
8 Picture gallery
Vintage Cars
This 1925 Bentley, nicknamed
Minerva, was owned by Prince
Hendrik, husband of Queen
Wilhelmina. It is one of the royal
familys many old cars and carriages
on display in the stables.
GELDERLAND 339
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map D3. Koninklijk Park 1
(Amersfoortseweg), Apeldoorn.
Tel 055-5772400.
paleishetloo.nl
Open 10am5pm TueSun &
hols. Closed 1 Jan. &
gardens only. 8 0 7 ^
Transport
Apeldoorn, then bus to
. Dining Hall (1686)
The marble-clad walls are hung with tapestries palace and gardens.
depicting scenes from Ovids poems.
Main entrance
. The Formal Gardens

The gardens are a
combination of vegetation,
stone carvings and fountains
in Classical style. The Fountain
of the Celestial Sphere stands
in the Lower Garden.
Queens Garden Paleis Het Loo The Formal Gardens

Lower Garden
When the formal gardens on the land
behind the palace were reconstructed,
garden designers based their designs
on old illustrations, prints, documents
and plans. In the 18th century, the
original ornamental gardens had been
grassed over. In 1983, the intricate
patterns of the original gardens were
restored and planting began. The Het
Loo gardens are typical of a formal
garden in the 17th century in which
the ideal was the harmonization of
Upper Garden art and nature.
Kings Garden Plan of the formal gardens

to Hattems eventful and town was moved well away

prosperous past. St Andreaskerk from the sea. The interesting
(St Andrews Church) is local history museum, the
particularly remarkable, its Gemeentemuseum, is in a
oldest part dating from 1176. 15th-century monastery.
The Anton Pieck Museum is
dedicated to the Dutch painter E Gemeentemuseum Elburg
and graphic artist Anton Jufferenstraat 68. Tel 0525-68
Pieck (18951987); it has 1341. Open 11am5pm TueSat.
been merged with the &8
Voerman Museum, which
showcases the IJssel painter
Jan Voerman and his son,
who illustrated the famous
Stroking monkeys in Apenheul, a zoo Verkade card albums.
in the Berg en Bos nature park
E Anton Pieck Museum/
2 Apeldoorn Voerman Museum
Achterstraat 4648. Tel 038-4442192 &
Road Map D3. * 152,000. @ 038-4442897. Open 10am5pm Tue
n Deventerstraat 18 (526-0200).
Sat (Jul & Aug also open 15pm Sun &
Apeldoorn is first mentioned Mon). Closed 1 Jan, 931 Jan, 30 Apr,
25 Dec; NovApr: Mon. & 7
as Appoldro in 793, and for
centuries it was a small rural
town in the Veluwe. This was
changed by William III in 1692 4 Elburg
when he built his hunting Road Map D3. * 21,500. @
The Oudheidkamer at Nunspeet, a town
lodge Het Loo (see pp3389) n Jufferenstraat 8 (0525-681520). in Gelderland province
here. Many wealthy burghers ( Tue.
followed Williams example 5 Nunspeet
and set themselves up in Elburg is the best-preserved Road Map D3. * 26,000. @
Apeldoorn. The engaging fortified town on the former n Stationsplein 1 (0341-274740).
Historisch Museum Apeldoorn Zuiderzee. The prosperity of this ( Thu am.
gives a good overview of the old town is illustrated in the
areas history. 14th-century St Nicolaaskerk, Nunspeet is a good starting
The Apenheul Primate Park with its imposing Quellhorst point from which to explore the
is a special zoo situated in the organ. From the 38-m (125-ft) nearby wooded countryside.
Berg en Bos nature park, where tower you can clearly make Nunspeets history comes to
more than 30 species of monkeys out the medieval rectangular life in the Oudheidkamer. The
run free among the visitors. The street pattern. nearby Veluwemeer lake is a
gorillas live on wooded islands Beside the Vischpoort (fish popular watersports centre.
that separate them from both gate), a former defence tower,
the monkeys and visitors. is the oldest ropemakers Environs
workshop in Holland. Elburg Some 15 km (9 miles) south
O Apenheul Primate Park was once much nearer to the of Nonspeet is the idyllic
JC Wilslaan 21. Tel 055-3575757. coast, but in the late 14th Uddelermeer lake, a remnant
Open AprOct: 10am5pm; JulAug: century the flood-plagued from the last Ice Age.
10am6pm. & 7
3 Hattem
Road Map D3. * 12,000. @
( Wed pm.
The picturesque town of

Hattem (first mentioned in 891)
was granted its town charter
as early as 1299, joining the
Hanseatic League in the 15th
century. Its monumental
buildings, such as the house
of Herman Willem Daendals,
later the governor-general of
the Dutch Indies, bear witness The pleasant market square of Hattem, with its 17th-century town hall
GELDERLAND 341
6 Harderwijk
Road Map C3. * 38,500. @
n Academiestraat 5 (085-2733575).
( Sat am.
The eel-smoking frames may

have disappeared from the
streets, but the Zuiderzee town
of Harderwijk is still a pleasant
place to wander around. The
town has an interesting history.
In the 13th century it had
become so important through
fishing and the trade in dyes that
in 1221 Count Otto II of Gelre
granted it a town charter and
ordered fortifications to be built.
Remnants of the old fortifications
are still intact in places, including
the Vischpoort gate. Between
1647 and 1811 Harderwijk even Boats moored at the harbour of Harderwijk
had a university, from which
the Swedish scholar Linnaeus 1944 were taken from the 9 Wageningen
graduated in 1735. Harderwijks village to the Neuengamme Road Map C4. * 33,000. @
main attraction is the concentration camp, ( Wed am, Sat.
Dolfinarium (see p426), from where only 50
Europes largest zoo for returned alive. Wageningen, at the southwestern
marine animals. The edge of the Veluwe, is a
Veluws Museum P Stoomgemaal pleasant town that is home to
of local history in Ray Hertog Reijnout the local Landbouwuniversiteit
the Donkerstraat Zeedijk 6. Tel 065-3225997. (agricultural university). The
is also worth visiting. Open AprSep: 10am4pm TueFri, universitys botanical gardens
10am1pm Sat, 11am4pm Sun. are open to the public. The
Closed Mon. & 8 town played an important
7 Nijkerk role at the end of World
Road Map C3. * 27,000. @
War II; the Germans signed
n Verlaat 13 (055-5260200). ( Fri pm. 8 Barneveld the official surrender in the
Road Map D4. * 47,000. @
Hotel de Wereld.
Nijkerk is a pleasant old town n Langestraat 85a (0342-420555).
with many shops, restaurants ( Thu, Sat am. P Hotel De Wereld
and open-air cafs. The tobacco 5 Mei Plein 1. Tel 0317-460444.
industry made the town rich in Barneveld owes its place in Open Call ahead to book.
the 18th century. The Grote Kerk history books to one individual:
features the tomb of Kiliaen van Jan van Schaffelaar,
Renselaer, one of the founders commander-in-chief of the
of New York. Just outside armed forces, who on 16 July
Nijkerk, on the Arkemheem 1482 chose suicide rather than
polder, is the Hertog Reijnout surrender and leapt from the
stoomgemaal, a paddle- tower of todays Nederlands
wheeled steam pumping- Hervormde kerk (Reformed
station, the last functioning one church). The Nairac museum
of its kind in Europe. Even today of local history devotes
it is used to pump water out considerable attention to
at times of flooding. this event. Today Barneveld
is known as a poultry centre.
Environs The local Pluimveemuseum
On the road to Putten is the (poultry museum) shows
Oldenaller estate with a castle how this industry has
from 1655. The cycling and developed here.
walking area is open to the
public. In Putten itself you can E Pluimveemuseum
visit De Gedachenisruimte (hall Hessenweg 2a. Tel 0342-400073.
of remembrance) in honour of Open AprOct: 10am5pm TueSat.
the 600 men who in October &7 The leap of Jan van Schaffelaar
0 Krller-Mller Museum
This museum owes its existence above all to one
person: Helene Krller-Mller (18691939). In 1908,
with the support of her industrialist husband Anton
Krller, Helene Krller-Mller started to collect
modern art. In 1935, she donated her entire
collection to the state, and a special museum was
built to house it. As well as its large collection of
modern art, which includes 278 works by Vincent
van Gogh, the museum is renowned for its unique
sculpture garden, the Beeldentuin.
. Beeldentuin
Jardin dEmail by Jean Dubuffet is
one of the most distinctive
sculptures in the 25-ha (62-acre)
sculpture garden. The garden
provides a natural backdrop for
works by sculptors such as
Auguste Rodin, Henry
Moore, Barbara Hepworth
and Richard Serra.
Mondriaan Entrance to the

In addition to old Flemish masters, the Krller-Mller
Beeldentuin
also has a major collection of 19th- and 20th-century
French paintings and a dozen abstract paintings by
Piet Mondriaan.
Shop
Main entrance
Jachthuis St Hubertus
This hunting lodge, built from
1914 to 1920 by the architect HP
Berlage, was commissioned by
the Krller-Mller family.
The Studio Boat

Claude Monets 1874 painting is
in the 19th- and 20th-century
French collection.
GELDERLAND 343
VISITORS CHECKLIST qNationaal Park

De Hoge Veluwe
Krller-Mller Museum: Road map D4. Houtkampweg,
Tel 0318-591241. Otterlo. Tel 055-378 8100. @ Ede,
Open 10am5pm TueSun & Apeldoorn. Open 9am6pm daily.
public hols; sculpture garden
Like the Krller-Mller Museum,
10am4:30pm. Closed 1 Jan.
- & Jachthuis St Hubertus:
De Hoge Veluwe is also the
8 daily (Jan: open Sat & Sun result of a collectors ambition.
only). Reserve tickets at the visitors The Krller-Mllers collected
centre (see column at right). plots of unused land in the
Veluwe until they possessed
Restaurant one single tract of natural land.
They even bought, in 1914, the
public road between Otterlo
and Hoenderlo. The 5,500 ha
(13,600 acres) of woodland,
marshland, heath and drifting
sand now make up the largest
nature reserve in Holland. The
park is a treasure trove for all
kinds of wildlife: rare birds,
butterflies, plants and fungi.
Red deer, roe deer and
moufflon sheep still live freely
Information
here. If you are lucky, you may
centre
be able to catch a glimpse of a
wild boar or a stag (they are
very shy animals). Bicycle and
pedestrian paths have been
laid out everywhere, and at the
visitors centre you can borrow
a white bicycle free of charge.
Underneath the visitors
. Van Gogh Collection centre is the worlds first
Caf Terrace at Night (1888). Van Goghs underground museum, the
huge collection of drawings, paintings Museonder, giving visitors an
and prints are the heart of the museum. idea of what life is like below
the earths surface. You can
see the roots of a 140-year-old
beech tree, experience a
Museum Guide recreated earthquake and
The museum, together with drink ancient Veluwe ground-
the sculpture garden, gives water. The park has two
expression to the notion restaurants: the Rijzenburg at
that nature, architecture the Schaarsbergen entrance
and art should be and the De Koperen Kop
combined to form a whole. caf-restaurant located in
the visitors centre.
Key to Floorplan
Museonder, the worlds first
Exhibition rooms
underground museum
w Arnhem
Road Map D3. * 136,500. @
n Stationsplein 13 (0481-366250).
( Fri, Sat (Kerkplein).
Arnhem, the capital of the

province of Gelderland, was
declared the centre of the
regional government back in
1544 by Charles V. In September
1944, the town suffered serious
damage in the Battle of Arnhem,
one of the most notorious
battles of World War II. All the
townspeople were forced to
abandon their homes and were Traditional houses in the Openluchtmuseum
not able to return until 1945,
when the war ended. Arnhem was almost totally destroyed also worth allowing time for a
rose again from the ashes and is during the war. The tower, at 93 visit to the Burgers Zoo (see
now sprucing itself up rapidly. m (305 ft), is now taller than it p426) and Openluchtmuseum
The monuments that have ever was and has a glass lift (open-air museum), where the
been restored include the which affords visitors a staff, dressed up in traditional
Eusebiuskerk from 1560, which stunning view of the Rhine costume, illustrate the rural
valley. The Duivelshuis, built in way of life, handicrafts and
1545 by Maarten van Rossum industry in the Netherlands of
(see p349), is an outstanding the 19th century.
example of Dutch Renaissance
architecture. Arnhem is also E Openluchtmuseum
known for its monumental Schelmseweg 89. Tel 026-3576111.
parks, such as the Sonsbeek, a Open AprOct: 10am5pm daily. &
romantic landscape park, and
Zypendaal. In Bronbeek, a Environs
home for ex-servicemen, there The Posbank at Rheden is an
Allied troops landing in Arnhem on 17 is an exhibition dedicated to example of the lateral moraine
September 1944 the former Dutch Indies. It is landscape of Veluwe.
Arnhem Town Openluchtmuseum,

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GELDERLAND 345
library, which was unsupervised t Vorden

at the time. There are only four Road Map D4. * 8,400. v
other libraries of this kind in the n Kerkstraat 1b (0575-553222).
world: two are in England and ( Fri am.
two are in northern Italy.
There is mention of a Huis
R St Walburgskerk and Librije Vorden (Vorden house) as early
Kerkhof 3. Tel 0575-514178. Open as 1208; the first record of the
Old book at the St Walburgskerk library, Jun: 1:304:30pm TueSat; Julearly family dates from 1315. The
built in 1564 Sep: 10:30am4:30pm TueSat. & Nederlands-herformde kerk,
which dates from around 1300,
e Zutphen is well worth a visit. The best-
Road Map D4. * 36,000. v
r Bronkhorst known figure to come from
n Stationsplein 39 (0575-519355). Road Map D4. * 160. @ 52 from
Vorden is the poet of
( Thu am, Sat. Zutphen train station. Achterhoek ACW Staring
(17671840), who lived in
The hanseatic town of Zutphen Bronkhorsts 160 inhabitants De Wildenborch castle from
is one of the Netherlands oldest make it the smallest town in the 1791 until his death.
historical towns. One of the Netherlands. The lords of
most distinctive features of Bronkhorst were granted a town Environs
the town, which is first charter in 1482. This very rural Around Vorden are eight castles
mentioned in 1030, is the town, which once stood in the in very picturesque surroundings.
preserved medieval street layout. shadow of a castle (the castle A bicycle trip of the area, passing
The main sights of Zutphen are no longer exists), never really farms and country estates, is
the St Walburgskerk, the church flourished and has remained a definitely worth the effort.
square and the remains of the village of farmsteads. It has
fortifications. They include the many restored farmhouses,
Drogenapstoren tower, which operates strict conservation
dates from 1444. rules forbidding new
Zutphen has a number of development and prohibits
interesting museums, including motor vehicles, which means
the informative Stedelijk cars must be left in a car park
Museum (local history museum) outside the town. All that
and the Grafisch Museum remains of the once-mighty
(graphic art museum), which is castle of the Lords of Bronkhorst,
highly recommended. which had fallen into disrepair
Definitely worth visiting is the by the 17th century, is the
reading room of the unique kasteelheuvel (castle hill).
Librije (library) of the St The Lords of Bronkhorst,
Walburgskerk. All of the 750 together with the noble Bergh,
books in it date from before 1750 Baer and Wisch families, An ancient watermill at Vorden, a
and include 80 incunabula belonged to the Baanderheren. town in eastern Netherlands
printed before 1500. The books They were nobles who were
in the library, which was built in allowed to wage war under y Lochem
1564, are chained to the desks. their own flag, which was Road Map D4. * 19,000. v
This is because it was a public an old hereditary right. n Tramstraat 4 (0573-251898).
( Wed am.
Lochem, one of the oldest

villages in the Achterhoek to have
its own parish church, was
granted its town charter in 1233.
During the Dutch War of
Independence, the town was
often besieged. It was razed to
the ground in 1615. Only the
Grote kerk, also known as St
Gudulakerk, with its 56-m (185-
ft) steeple, was spared. This
14th-century hall-type church has
fine murals from Catholic times
(it is now a Reformed Church).
The Stadhuis (town hall), across
Bronkhorst, a tiny, picturesque village of farmsteads from the church, dates from 1615.
Peeske, and the historic

farmhouses along the
Langeboomseweg in
Velthuizen are worth seeing.
p Doesburg
Road Map D4. * 11,000. @ 27/29
Arnhem & 26/28 Dieren.
n Gasthuisstraat 13 (0313-479088).
( Wed am, Sat.
A charming old farmhouse near Winterswijk
Doesburg is a snug Hanseatic
u Winterswijk surrounding it are among the town on the IJssel. Granted its
Road Map E4. * 28,000. v
prettiest corners of Achterhoek. town charter in 1237, this small
n Mevr, Kuipers Rietbergplein 1 The little town, which was towns well-preserved old centre
(0543-512302). ( Wed am, Sat. granted its charter in 1379, has had listed status since 1974.
winterswijk.nl retains its historical centre, with Doesburg contains at least 150
buildings from the 15th and 16th national monuments, including
The 20th century was not kind to centuries. Huis Bergh is one of a Late Gothic town hall, one of
the town of Winterswijk and the Hollands finest castles and the earliest in Holland. The
grand railway station bears houses the art collection of the Grote or Martinuskerk, a Late
witness to better times. There is textile magnate JH van Heek. Gothic basilica with a 97-m
now only a single railway track, (320-ft) tower, is another of the
although it is evident that in the E Kasteel Huis Bergh towns noteworthy buildings,
past the rail traffic was much n Hof Van Bergh 8 (0314-661281). along with the local museum
heavier. The Museum Freriks is Open MayOct: 12:304:30pm Tue De Roode Toren.
interesting, with its exhibits Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. &
relating to the textile industry that E De Roode Toren
flourished here before World War Roggestraat 913. Tel 0313-474265.
II. The museum also has prints o Montferland Open 10amnoon, 1:304:30pm Tue
by Pieter Mondriaan Sr, whose Road Map D4. n Hofstraat 1,
Fri, 1:304:30pm Sat & Sun (NovMar:
famous painter son Piet spent his s-Heerenberg (0316-291391). pm only).
childhood in Winterswijk.
On the outskirts of the town Montferland, one of the few
lies a pleasant sculpture park, De hilly areas in the Netherlands, a Nijmegen
Beeldtuin. Set out in the shady is exceptionally attractive. Road Map D4. * 152,000. v
mature orchards of an old farm, Apart from s-Heerenberg (see n Keizer Karelplein 32 (0481-366250).
there are also meadows and above), there is a number of ( Mon, Sat.
wooded areas. The works of art, by other attractions, such as
contemporary, mainly Dutch Zeddam, Beek and nature Nijmegen is one of the oldest
sculptors, are dotted all over the reserves where you can walk, towns in Holland. Archaeological
grounds, and represent just about cycle, swim or even dive. The remains show that the Batavians
every genre, from Pop Art through natural spring in Beek, het were settled here even before
traditional to highly abstract.
The park also hosts changing
temporary exhibitions of 3D art.
E Museum Freriks
Groenloseweg 86. Tel 0543-533533.
Open 10am5pm TueFri,
25pm Sat & Sun. &
E De Beeldtuin
Steggemansweg 1. Tel 0543-521034.
Open phone ahead.
i s-Heerenberg
Road Map D4. * 18,000.
@ 24. n Hofstraat 1 (0316 -291391).
( Thu.
The old castle town of

s-Heerenberg and the area Huis Bergh, one of Hollands finest castles
GELDERLAND 347
the first millennium BC, while the

Romans had a fort here from 12
BC. In AD 104, the emperor
Trajan granted trading rights to a
new settlement west of present-
day Valkhof. The towns ancient
name of Ulpia Noviomagus
Batavorum is presumably also
from this time.
Nijmegen owes its existence
to its strategic position on the
river Waal. A fort has stood here
since early times, and even in
World War II, the town was a
significant battle scene. The most
important sights include the Nijmegens Waag, dating from 1612
Valkhof, with its new museum,
which stands on the spot where from the earliest hobby horse- the Waalpark. Featuring around
the fort of the Batavians, Roman type bikes that date back to 100 acts, international cutting-
engineering works and, later, 1817. The upstairs room is edge rock and pop bands play
one of Charlemagnes palaces devoted to the bicycles modern alongside DJs and world
stood. All that remains of the incarnation, with beautifully musicians. There are also
palace which was rebuilt by shiny examples of racers, workshops on such activities as
Frederick Barbarossa is the recumbants and everyday bikes. Latin music and dancing.
St Maartenskapel from 1155 Star of the show, however, is
and the St Nicolaaskapel, one of the bicycle that belonged to E Museum Het Valkhof
the earliest stone buildings in all Queen Wilhelmina in the Kelfkensbos 59, Nijmegen.
of Holland. This chapel (part of 1940s and 1950s. Tel 024-3608805. Open 10am5pm
which dates back to 1030) is a Nijmegen is perhaps best TueSun. Closed 25 Dec. &
rare example of Byzantine known for its annual four-day -=
architecture in northern Europe. rambling meet, the Vierdaagse, E Velorama National
Other noteworthy buildings in which tens of thousands of Bicycle Museum
include the St Stevenskerk, the ramblers take part. With its Waalkade 107. Tel 024-3225851.
construction of which began in many cafs, the town also has a Open 10am5pm MonSat,
1254, the Waag (weigh house) vibrant nightlife. 11am5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
and the Kronenburgerpark, with Each July, de-Affaire, a
the remnants of fortifications week-long festival of music, Environs
(the Kruittoren tower). accompanies the Vierdaagse Close to Nijmegen is the
A fascinating insight into the long-distance marches (see box). Ooypolder, a beautiful, relaxing
Dutch national obsession with Events take place all over town, oasis for nature lovers. Here you
all things two-wheeled can be but many are focused around can cycle and walk.
found at Velorama, the bike
museum. Spread over two
floors, there are examples from Nijmegens Four Days Marches
the entire history of cycling, In mid-July thousands of people from all around the Netherlands
(and beyond) descend on the city to take part in the annual
De Vierdaagse, the Four Days
Marches. This is a series of hikes in
and around Nijmegen, divided into
daily legs of 30 km (20 miles) to 50
km (30 miles). The walks began in
1909 as a military exercise for
soldiers, who marched from
Nijmegens garrison to Bredas,
where they participated in a sports
tournament. In that year, 309 soldiers
completed the 150 km route. After a
few years, civilians began to join in,
until the march became a highlight
of the national sporting calendar. In
recent years, the number of
participants has topped 45,000.
Those who complete the walk Walkers tackling the Four Days
Ruins of the Valkhof in Nijmegen, one of receive a commemorative medal. Marches
the oldest towns in Holland
museum) illustrates the

development of Operation
Market Garden (1944) and
Operation Veritable (1945),
which brought about the final
liberation of Holland. Groesbeek
has two other popular
museums: the Bijbels
Openluchtmuseum and the
Afrika Museum.
E Bevrijdingsmuseum 1944
Wylerbaan 4. Tel 024-3974404. Open
10am5pm MonSat, noon5pm Sun
& hols. Closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan. & 7
f Tiel
Beavers introduced to the Gelderse Poort now thrive
Road Map C4. * 36,500. @
n Plein 63 (0344-633030). ( Mon
s Gelderse Poort } Gelderse Poort Visitors Centre
pm, Sat.
Gerard Noodtstraat 121. Tel 024-3297
Road Map D4. n Arnhem
070. Open AprOct: 9am5pm daily. Tiel, situated on the Waal, is an
(0481-366250).
ancient town that flourished
At the point where the Rhine during the Middle Ages
enters the Waal, the IJssel and d Groesbeek because of its strategic location
the Neder-Rijn (Lower Rhine) is on the trading routes to and
Road Map D4. * 19,000. @
the Gelderse Poort. This is a n Dorpsplein 1a (024-3977118).
from Cologne. One of the best-
protected area where the flora preserved monuments from this
and fauna have been allowed Its hilly woodland surroundings time is the Ambtmanshuis,
to grow freely. At the heart of make Groesbeek an attractive dating back to 1525. The town
it is the Millingerwaard, where place for cyclists and hikers. The also has the oldest elm tree in
the currents are particularly route of the four-day annual the country. The local history
strong and where, at high hike (Vierdaagse) follows the museum, De Groote Sociteit
water, the surrounding area Zevenheuvelenweg from on the Plein, is worth a visit. Tiel
regularly floods. The river Groesbeek to Berg and Dal, past is the centre of fruit farming in
banks, woodlands and marshes the Canadian war cemetery. the Betuwe region. On the
provide ideal breeding grounds Groesbeek was subjected to second Saturday in September
for endangered species of heavy bombardment at the of each year, it also becomes
birds such as the corncrake end of World War II. The the centre of the Fruitcorso (see
and the penduline tit. Bevrijdingsmuseum (liberation p38), as a procession of floats
The Great Rivers

The three great rivers the Rhine, the Maas and the Waal have
made an important mark on the history and landscape of
Ijsse
Gelderland. The fortified trading towns that grew on the banks of

l
the rivers brought prosperity to the region; dykes were built to Deventer
protect the land from flooding.
Apeldoorn
Arnhem
Culemborg
Rotterdam
Tiel Lower
Lek Rhin
e
Gorinchem W
R h in
e
Dordrecht aa Nijmegen
l
Hol Biesbosch Oss

lan
ds D Bergse Maas
iep s-Hertogenbosch
Ma
ss
GELDERLAND 349
clock in the j Zaltbommel

Grote Kerk was Road Map C4. * 11,000. @ n
a gift from Markt 15 (0418-518177). ( Tue, Sat.
South Africa.
Even today, Bommel, as its inhabitants say, is
the papklok bell, more than 1,000 years old. During
which is used to the 80 Years War (see p53), it was
announce the an important mainstay of the
closing of the Republiek der Zeven Verenigde
town gates, is Nederlanden (Republic of the
tolled each and Seven United Netherlands). The
every evening at town is surrounded by two well-
Dyke house on the Linge 10 oclock. preserved sets of walls, which
have now been laid out as a park.
decorated with fruit winds E Museum Elisabeth Weeshuis Within the town walls, the first
through the streets of the town. Herenstraat 29. Tel 0345-513912. building worth mentioning is the
Tiel is also renowned for its Open AprOct: 15pm TueFri, 15th-century St Maartenskerk,
tinsmith industry. 25pm Sat & Sun. & whose low towers give the town
its distinctive skyline. The interior
Environs of the church is worth a look.
Asperen is a peaceful little town h Buren Another worthwhile stop is at
on the River Linge. On the Road Map C4. * 1,800. @
the house of the Gelderland
Lingedijk is Fort Asperen, which n Markt 1 (0344-571922). ( Fri. commander-in-chief Maarten
is part of the Nieuwe Hollandse van Rossum (14781555), who
Waterlinie. Farther upstream is On the main road between Tiel is known for plundering The
the little town of Acquoy, with and Culemborg is Buren. This little Hague in 1528. The house is
its crooked 15th-century tower. town is known for its historic links now an intimate museum with
A Lady Pisa is buried in the with the House of Orange, and the a large collection of drawings
churchyard, but there is no entire town has been listed. One of and prints from the region; it
connection to the Leaning the most beautiful houses is the also hosts visiting exhibitions.
Tower in Italy. Koninklijk Weeshuis (Royal
Orphanage), which was built in E Maarten van Rossummuseum
1613 by Maria of Orange. The Late Nonnenstraat 5. Tel 0418-512617.
g Culemborg Gothic Lambertuskerk is also Open AprOct: 10am5pm
Road Map C4. * 24,000. @
worth seeing. TueSun. &
n Camping de Hogekuil, Achterweg
4 (0345-515701). ( Tue.
The old Driestadje (triple

town) of Culemborg, formerly
consisting of three walled
towns, is picturesquely situated
on the River Lek. It is a great
place to wander around. If you
enter the former fortress
through the old Binnenpoort
gate, youll reach the Markt.
Here is the Late Gothic
Stadhuis (town hall), built by
Flemish masterbuilder
Rombout Keldermans for
Vrouwe Elisabeth van
Culemborg (14751555). Her
estate was sufficient to finance
the Elisabeth Weeshuis (1560),
which is now operated as a
historical museum.
Other well-preserved
buildings in Culemborg are
the Huize de Fonteyn in the
Achterstraat and the house
where Jan van Riebeeck, who
founded Cape Town, South
Africa, was born. The large The house of Maarten van Rossum in Nonnenstraat, Zaltbommel
SOUTHERN
NETHERLANDS
Introducing the Southern

Netherlands 352357
North Brabant 358369
Limburg 370385
352 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
Southern Netherlands
at a Glance
South of Hollands great rivers lie the provinces of North
Brabant and Limburg, where industry and countryside
coexist in harmony, though the coal fields are long gone.
As with the rest of the Netherlands, eating and drinking
well are held in high regard here. Visitors to the Southern
Netherlands will also find cities with historical centres, such
as Den Bosch, Breda, Thorn and Maastricht; the beautiful
countryside of Kempen, Peel and the hills of Zuid Limburg;
thriving modern towns; and peaceful rural villages.
The Gothic Church of Sint Jan

(see pp36465) in Den Bosch
was started in the late 14th
century and completed
in the 1500s.
Heusden
s-Hertogenbosch
Oosterhout
Breda
Boxtel
Tilburg
Roosendaal
Bergen
NORTH BRABANT
op Zoom (See pp35869)
Zundert
The construction of the Grote

or Onze Lieve Vrouwe-kerk
(Church of Our Lady) (see p3667)
in Breda began in 1410. The
church, which is finished in
the Brabant Gothic style, has 0 kilometres 20
a 97-m (318-ft) tower, offering a 0 miles 20
stunning view over the town and
the surrounding countryside.
The Van Abbemuseum

(see p368) in Eindhoven
has undergone extensive
renovation. Architect Abel
Cahen has preserved the
old builing while creating
light-filled spaces in the
angular, slanting new
wing. A large collection
of modern art, including
video and other
installations, is on display.
Revellers take part in carnival celebrations in Den Bosch, North Brabant
INTRODUCING THE SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS 353
The Kasteeltuinen,
the gardens of the
17th-century Castle
Arcen (see p374), in the
town of the same
name on the River
Maas, have a lovely
rose garden, as well as
subtropical gardens, a
forest of Scots pines
and a golf course.
Oss
Gennep
Uden
Venray
Nuenen
Helmond The Bonnefantenmuseum
(see pp3789) in Maastricht is housed in a
striking building designed by the Italian
Eindhoven architect Aldo Rossi. The collections of
old works of art and contemporary
Venlo international art are impressive.
Valkenswaard
Tegelen
Weert LIMBURG
(See pp37085)
The Van
Abbemuseum Roermond
Maasbracht
Sittard
Geleen
Heerlen
Maastricht
The route through the Heuvelland
(see pp38485) passes among hills and dales
Eijsden and by meandering rivers, their banks dotted
with old castles. Outstanding examples of
these are the 17th-century Kasteel Eijsden
and Kasteel Schaloen in Valkenburg.
Catholicism and Devotion

One of the main reasons for the differences between
Hollands southern and northern provinces is the
marked presence of Catholicism in the south, even
in these secular times. Religious imagery is a common
sight here. The churches in the Brabant Gothic or Neo-
Gothic style are decorated flamboyantly and many
host traditional processions throughout the year.
Religious images, usually of

The Maria the Madonna and Child, are
Magdalena Chapel a common roadside sight in
(1695) in Gemert is Limburg. This one is set into the
also known as the faade of a house in Mechelen.
Spijkerkapelleke
(nail chapel)
because people
made offerings of
nails here in the
hopes of having
their skin disorders
cured. Every 22 July,
which is the day of
Mary Magdalene,
an open-air mass
is held here.
Decorative
carving
Candles
abound
around
images of
St Mary.
Detail from the retable of the Holy Family

in the Basilica of the Holy Sacrament in
Meerssen, Limburg. It depicts Mary, Joseph
and the infant Jesus fleeing to Egypt. This
fine altar is richly decorated with scenes
from the life of the Holy Family. The Holy
Sacrament is honoured in the church. The This tomb in the Late Romanesque/Early Gothic
host is kept in the Unique Sacramentstoren Onze-Lieve-Vrouwemunsterkerk (Minster Church
(sacrament tower) in the choir. The church of Our Lady) in Roermond dates from the 13th
itself is an example of Maasland Gothic and century. Inside the tomb lies Count Gerard van
part of it (the nave and the choir) dates from Gelre and his wife Margaretha van Brabant. At the
as far back as the 14th century. time, Roermond was part of the duchy of Gelre.
St Anna-te-Drien
the trinity of
Anna, her daughter The Basiliek van de HH
Mary and the Agatha en Barbara
infant Jesus is a (Basilica of SS Agatha and
familiar image in Barbara) in Oudenbosch is
religious art. This a copy of St Peter and
statue from St John of the Laterans in
Mechelen Rome. The picture on the
incorporates the right shows the faade.
towns coat The interior of the church
of arms. is richly decorated,
though appearances
Statue of St Mary are deceptive: what
in the Onder de appears to be marble is
Linden Chapel in actually painted wood.
Thorn (Limburg).
Onder De Linden Chapel in Thorn

The Onder de Linden Chapel, located just
outside the town of Thorn in Limburg, was
founded in 1673 by Clara Elisabeth van
Manderscheidt-Blankenheim, who lies buried
in the parish church of Thorn. This chapel,
dedicated to St Mary, is opulently decorated
with carvings and Baroque paintings
depicting scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary.
Shown in the picture on the left is the Onze-
Lieve-Vrouwebeeld (statue of Our Lady).
St Marys Chapel is also called the Loretokapel,
after the Holy House of Nazareth in the Italian
town of Loreto, on which the earlier
17th-century part of the chapel is based.
The 15th-century
tower of the
Michielskerk is all
that remains of the
North Brabant Sint-
Michielsgestel. The
medieval church
was built in honour
of the archangel
Michael. The village,
also named after the
saint, grew up
around the church.
Neglect and the
elements have
meant that the
church building itself
has been levelled to
the ground, but the
solid tower has
withstood the ages.
The church of Rolduc, a former canons

abbey at Kerkrade which today houses
a Catholic middle school and a training
school for priests, has a fine altar depicting
the Lamb of God. The Lamb of God
represents Christ, who was sacrificed in
the same way as a lamb, in order to take
away the sins of the world.
Carnival
Every year in February, in the week before Ash Wednesday,
carnival breaks out in the towns south of the great rivers.
While life goes on as usual in the north of the country,
people in the south celebrate this old tradition, which is
also honoured in other parts of the Catholic world. A
festive mood abounds everywhere, with the best-known
celebrations being held in Den Bosch, Bergen op Zoom
and Maastricht. For days on end, there is drinking, singing
and dancing all over Brabant and Limburg. Carnavalsstokken (carnival
rods) are brightly decorated.
They are carried by the Prince of
Music plays an the Carnival when he passes
important role at through the streets on his float.
carnival time. Every year,
the associations choose
the official carnival
anthem that will be
played over and over
again. The Zaate
Herremienekes of
Maastricht (pictured left)
are among the better-
known bands. Dozens
of its members
march through the
streets blaring out
enthusiastically; what
their music may lack in
elegance is made up
for by their verve. On
Shrove Tuesday they
compete in the
Herremienekes
competition.
Carnival Putting Your Worries Aside

The carnival season officially starts on
11 November the eleventh of the eleventh
or day of fools, when the Council of Eleven
names the Prince of the Carnival. From then on,
the municipalities are busy with preparations,
and on the Sunday (in many places now on the
Friday) before Ash Wednesday, the festivities
begin. Wild celebrations are held throughout
North Brabant and Limburg, and most public
institutions are closed. Long processions with
floats parade through the towns. People dress
up festively: the more colourful and exuberant
the costume, the better. Dansmarietjes
(dancing girls) accompany the floats in their
colourful costumes, and the mood everywhere
is upbeat. All the merriment comes to an end
Although in high spirits, his question is profound (the sign on after Shrove Tuesday, the climax of the carnival.
the pram reads, Where are we going?)
Carnival Floats
At carnival time, long processions with extravagantly
decorated floats wind their way through the main
streets of towns and villages. Months of preparation
often go into creating the floats, and secrecy prevails
during their preparation. The decoration of the
float is usually on an upbeat and amusing theme,
but current events are sometimes illustrated in
imaginative ways. When leading
politicians are featured, they
are more often than
not caricatured
mercilessly, and
Refreshments both indoors and outdoors at social ills are
carnival time exposed, often
using costumed
participants in
tableaux vivants.
A festive float
The Raad van Elf (Council

of Eleven) is the central
office of the local carnival
organization. Every year, the
council appoints a Prince of
the Carnival, who holds
power in a municipality on
the days of the carnival.
The councils ritual number
is 11, which is considered
the number of fools. From
Characteristic 11 November onwards,
Prince the Raad van Elf is busy
carnival cap with
Carnivals preparing carnival events.
feather
adjutant At the lively meetings,
many a beer is drunk to a
Prince call of Alaaf! (Eleven!).
Carnival
Silly clothes are

mandatory at carnival
time. In earlier times it
was customary to put on
masks, whereas today the
trend is to dress up in as
unusual a way as possible.
The northerners belief
that it is enough to put
on a peasants smock to
Colourful fool be properly dressed is a
misconception.
SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS 359
NORTH
BRABANT
The Netherlands second-largest province is
distinguished primarily by its natural beauty. In the
south and southeast are the relatively high elevations of
Kempen and the Peel; in the northwest, the watery Biesbosch. Here, arms
of the Waal and Maas rivers converge through a wilderness of sandbanks.
North Brabant has been inhabited by and founded towns such as Breda and
humans since the earliest times. The Celts s-Hertogenbosch. The Duchy flourished
settled here in the 7th century BC and until the 16th century, when the 80 Years
stayed for many centuries. They were War left the south of Brabant under
defeated by Julius Caesar (see pp467), Spanish rule and the north under the
who describes them as the Belgae in his rule of the Netherlands.
writings. The Rhine became the northern Although North Brabant has its fair share
frontier of the Roman Empire and Roman of commerce and industry, and Eindhoven
remains have been found in the area. is a major manufacturing centre, tourism
When the Romans left, the Franks took has become increasingly important. The
charge of Toxandria, as the region was regions colourful history is evident from
known in those days. Under Charlemagne the medieval buildings and bastions in
(see p48), this region grew in importance many of the towns, and the castles dotted
as new towns expanded at points along around the countryside, with a range of
trade routes, and in the 12th century fine exhibits in churches and museums.
became part of the Duchy of Brabant. The For younger visitors the highlight is the
Dukes of Brabant, among them Godfried fairytale theme park De Efteling at
III and Henry I, expanded their territory Kaatsheuvel, northeast of Breda.
Het Grote Peel, an area of outstanding natural beauty in North Brabant

The beautiful ceiling of the basilica in Oudenbosch
Exploring North Brabant

North Brabants rich historic past and unspoiled
countryside have given the province its unique
character. The centres of s-Hertogenbosch and Breda
and the picturesque fortified towns of Heusden and
Willemstad are of great historical interest. The beautiful
natural areas of the Loonse and Drunense dunes, Peel,
Kempen and Biesbosch areas provide opportunities
for various tours. Van Abbemuseum in Eindhoven, De
Wieber in Deurne and the many other museums in the
region offer a great deal of cultural interest. De Efteling
is one of Europes best-known theme parks.
The Markiezenhof in Bergen op Zoom,
dating from 1511
Sights at a Glance
1 s-Hertogenbosch pp3626 0 Nuene
2 Heusden q Helmond
3 Tilburg w Deurne Werkendam
4 Breda e Gemert Woudrichem
5 Oudenbosch
6 Willemstad
Nationaal
7 Bergen op Zoom
Park de
8 Eindhoven Biesbosch
9 Heeze
Hol
la n ds Diep Moerdijk
Raamsdonksveer
Made
WILLEMSTAD Waalwijk
Zevenbergen Kaatsheuvel
Oosterhout
Dinteloord Dongen
OUDENBOSCH Rijen
Steenbergen BREDA
Etten-Leur TILBURG
Halsteren Roosendaal NOORD-

Goirle
BERGEN OP ZOOM Alphen

Zundert
Baarle-Nassau
Hoogerheide
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Drifting sands and conifers in the Loonse and the International border
Drunense dunes, east of Kaatsheuvel
NORTH BRABANT 361
Getting Around
North Brabant has an excellent transport
infrastructure. All the larger towns, as well as
many smaller towns and villages, can be
reached easily by train. There is an extensive
network of long-distance buses, which will
take you to even the smallest village. The
province can be explored by car with great
ease thanks to its dense motorway network,
which includes the A2 and the A58, as well as
its many good major roads. Areas of natural
beauty, such as the Peel and Kempen, are
ideal countryside for cycling. The 14th-century Kasteel Heeswijk, rebuilt numerous times
during its lifetime
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
rgse Maas
Be
Megen
Grave
Oss
Cuijck
HEUSDEN Heesch
Rosmalen
Zeeland
Vlijmen
s-HERTOGENBOSCH Mill
Vught Uden
St-Michielsgestel Boxmeer
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HELMOND
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Mierlo DEURNE
m pen EINDHOVEN Geldrop D e Pe e l

Ke Veldhoven
Asten
Aalst
HEEZE Someren
Bladel
Valkenswaard
Reusel Leende
Maarheeze
Bergeyk
Budel
Sheep on the Strabrechtse Heide, near Heeze

1 Street-by-Street:
s-Hertogenbosch
In 1185, Henry I of Brabant founded the town Stone Plaque with Swan
of s-Hertogenbosch. The strategically Such plaques are a common
sight in the city centre.
positioned town usually called Den Bosch
grew rapidly. From the 16th century,
however, its prosperity waned, when the
States General ignored Brabant and .
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chose to favour other regions. ST
Its prestige rose again after EN
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1815, when it became the K
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Today, it is a vibrant, R.
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lively town. BR
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De Moriaan
The medieval building known
as De Moriaan, with its stepped
gable, is the towns oldest
building. It now houses the 0 metres 100
towns tourist office. 0 yards 100
. Binnen-Dieze
The Binnen-Dieze, the citys inner . Sint Jan
canal, runs partly underground. It is The flying buttresses of the Sint Jan
possible to make a spectacular round Church (see pp3645) are decorated
trip along the restored town walls. with a variety of figures.
S-HERTOGENBOSCH 363
Statue of Jeroen
VISITORS CHECKLIST
(Hieronymus) Bosch The painter
Jeroen Bosch (c.1450/1460
1516), is the citys most
Map C4. * 127,000. n Markt 77
renowned figure.
(0900-1122334). ( 8:30am
Medieval Well 1:30pm Wed & Sat. _ Indoor
Restored to its former glory, Brabant (equestrian competition):
this well is located in the Markt. Feb/Mar; jazz festival: Whitsun.
Transport
.
MARK TSTR
s-Hertogenbosch CS,
s-Hertogenbosh Oost.
@ Stationsplein.
HINTHAME
RSTR AAT
MA
RK
T
KE
RK
ST
RA
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KO
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RA
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IN
ST
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RA
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AT
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IS
D HU
TA
V Stadhuis
S E
T R The Neo-Classical town hall, built in 1670,
HE W
stands in the Markt. The figures of horsemen
ER E
R
HT S beneath the tympanum spring to action
AC S
T twice every hour.
R
A
A
T
T
A
A
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S
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A
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Zwanenbroedershuis
The Zwanen brothers (14th
century) did much charity
work but are best known
as gourmands. Their house
is now a museum.
Noordbrabants Museum
The North Brabant museum
Key
is housed in the monumental
former government building. Recommended route
Sint Jan
There was a church of Sint Jan (St John) in Den
Bosch as early as the beginning of the 13th
century, although nothing of the original
Romanesque church exists today. The present-
day Gothic church was built from the late 14th
to the 16th century. The majestic cathedral
survived the Iconoclastic Riots of 1566 (see p56)
and a devastating fire in 1584. The damaged
building is undergoing continuous restoration.
. Organ
The great organ (1617)
was fully refurbished in
1985 and restored to its
original state.
Statue of St Mary
The 13th-century miracle-
working figure of the Zoete
Lieve Vrouw of Den Bosch
(Our Good Lady of Den
Bosch) was for centuries
kept in Brussels, but was
returned to Sint Jan in 1853.
KEY
1 The ornamental south

portal is dedicated to Saint John
the Evangelist.
2 Flying buttresses are designed
to strengthen the structure of the
building. They are richly ornamented
with saints, angels and other figures.
3 The gargoyles are designed
to channel rainwater pouring
off the roof. Here, the drain pipes
are encased by the head of
mythical animals.
4 The stained-glass window
frame depicts the woman and the Baptistery
dragon from The Book of Revelation. The baptismal font in the
5 The seven radiating chapels baptistery dates from
around the choir form an 1492. The figures on the
elegant crown. cover depict the baptism
of Jesus by St John.
S-HERTOGENBOSCH 365
Baldachin
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The revolving baldachin in
the middle of the cathedral is
ascribed to Alart Duhameel.
Torenstraat 16.
The all-seeing eye looks
Tel 073-6130314.
down from the vaults.
sint-jan.nl
Open 8am5pm daily but
restrictions apply during
church services.
Antoniuskapel
The Chapel of St Anthony
contains a spectacular
Passion altar made by a
studio in Antwerp. The
Church of Sint Jan
managed to buy the
retable in 1901 for
one guilder.
. Stained-Glass Windows
The Church of Sint Jan was restored
in Neo-Gothic style during the 19th
century. A great deal was changed,
including the lively and colourful
stained-glass windows.
. Sanctuary
The sanctuary was built from
1380 to 1425 by Willem van
Kessel. The vaults are painted
with a variety of religious
scenes, among them the
coronation of St Mary.
Exploring s-Hertogenbosch
Along with a large number of historical buildings and interesting
museums, the town of s-Hertogenbosch offers a wide choice
of fine restaurants. The excellent Noordbrabants Museum has
an excellent exhibition of art from the Southern Netherlands
from 1500 to the present. The most striking building in Four putti (1731) by Walter Pompe,
s-Hertogenbosch is the majestic Gothic church of Sint Jan. Noordbrabants Museum
The historic district of Uilenburg offers ample opportunities
to while away the time with a drink or a bite to eat in a caf. E Noordbrabants Museum
Verwersstraat 41. Tel 073-6877877.
The splendid church of Sint Jan most of his life here. In the towns Open 11am5pm TueSun.
(see pp3645) is Den Boschs historical district of Uilenburg, Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 -
crowning glory. In the Markt beyond the Markt, are plenty of The excellent Noordbrabants
stand historical buildings such as good cafs and restaurants. The Museum displays art by
De Moriaan (parts of which date Binnen-Dieze, the citys inner renowned artists such as Pieter
back to the 12th century) and canal, surfaces at this point; Brueghel and Teniers, as well as
the town hall, dating from 1670. houses here stand directly in its modern artists such as Van Gogh,
A statue of the great painter water. Right by Sint Jan is the Mondriaan and Sluyters. The
Hieronymus Bosch (c.1453 majestic Zwanenbroedershuis museum also features exhibits
1516) stands between the (see p363), as well as the Museum on the history of the province of
two grand buildings. Born in Slager, which showcases North Brabant, from prehistoric
s-Hertogenbosch, Bosch spent paintings by the Slager family. times to the present.
2 Heusden here, save for the fact that fair), held each year at the end of
Road Map C4. * 43,000. @ n
motor vehicles are allowed July, is the biggest fair in Holland.
Pelsestraat 17 (0416-662100). ( Thu. into the fortress. The entire town puts all its energy
into the event, and people come
After a thorough refurbishment from far and near to attend.
that started in 1968 and lasted 3 Tilburg
for decades, the picturesque E Nederlands Textielmuseum
Road Map C5. * 213,000. @ Goirkestraat 96. Tel 013-5367475.
ancient fortified town of n Nieuwlandstraat 34 (0900-
Heusden on the River Maas has Open 10am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
2020815). ( TueSat. Sat & Sun. Closed most public hols.
been restored to its former
& 7 8 by appointment.
glory. That Heusden fell victim Tilburg, the sixth-largest town in
-0=
to the redevelopment craze Holland, once had a flourishing
of the 1960s matters little. textile industry. The interesting
Walls, houses, moats, the Nederlands Textielmuseum, Environs
Veerpoort (ferry gate) and which is housed in a former Kaatsheuvel is home to De
the Waterpoort have all been textile mill, illustrates the Efteling, the famous theme
restored in the old style. As history of the countrys textile park where all kinds of fairytale
advertising is banned in industry and explains how personalities come to life
Heusden, it is easy to imagine textiles were produced. (see p427).
that time has stood still The kermis van Tilburg (Tilburg
4 Breda
Road Map B5. * 182,100. @
n Willemstraat 1719 (0900-
5222444). ( Tue & Fri am, Sat.
The Old Bastion of Breda was

built at the confluence of the
rivers Aa and Mark around the
Kasteel van Breda, where the
Koninklijke Militaire Academie
(royal military academy) is now
established. Breda was granted
its town charter in 1252.
A walk through the old centre
will take you to the Grote Kerk,
also known as the Onze Lieve
Mills on the bastion of the old fortified town of Heusden Vrouwe Kerk (Church of Our
NORTH BRABANT 367
Lady). It is prominent on the

Grote Markt and cannot be
missed. Construction of this
magnificent Brabant Gothic-style
church began in 1410; in 19958
it underwent restoration.
At the Spanjaardsgat water-
gate, near the castle, legend
has it that in the 16th century,
during the 80 Years War of
independence from Spain,
Adriaen van Bergen tricked
his way past the Spanish with
a peat barge full of soldiers
and liberated the town.
Bredas Museum is housed
in the old barracks of the The basilica of Oudenbosch, a miniature copy of St Peters in Rome
Chasskazerne. The museum
displays interesting exhibits 7 Bergen op Zoom original chapel. The lords of
that illustrate local history. Bergen op Zoom built the
Road Map B5. * 66,200. @
n Korte Meesstraat 19 (0164- Markiezenhof, which was
E Bredas Museum
277482). ( Thu. finally completed in 1511. The
Parade 1214. Tel 076-5299300. Open castle is today a museum, with
10am5pm TueSun. & 7 - The old town of Bergen op period rooms and an unusual
Zoom grew around a chapel collection of fairground items.
that was dedicated to St There are also changing
5 Oudenbosch Gertrude. In 1260, Bergen op exhibitions, which vary from
Road Map B5. * 13,000
Zoom was granted its town cultural history to modern art.
(municipality of Halderberge). charter, after which it enjoyed
@ n Parklaan 15 (0165-390555). a period of prosperity. The E Markiezenhof
( Tue pm. 15th-century St Geertruids Steenbergsestraat 8. Tel 0164-277077.
kerk, with its striking tower, Open 11am5pm TueSun.
Between 1860 and 1870, stands on the site of the &7-
Oudenbosch was the point
from which the Zouaves set
out on their journey to Rome The Surrender of Breda
to defend the pope against During the 80 Years War, Breda was kept under siege by Spain for
Garibaldi. Upon their return, they ten months, before finally surrendering to Ambrosio Spinolas
had the architect PJH Cuypers troops on 5th June 1625. The moment of capitulation is captured
(see p375) build a miniature in Velzquezs painting, known as both The Surrender of Breda and
replica of St Peters basilica in Las Lanzas the lances after the line of weapons that dominate
Rome, the Basiliek van de HH the background. Velzquez, the great court painter of King Philip
Agatha en Barbara (Basilica of IV, is said to have painted the scene from memory. His picture
SS Agatha and Barbara). shows the moment when the commander of the Dutch troops,
on the left of the picture in a supplicating position, hands the key
of the Dutch fortress to a straight-backed Spinola. The painting
6 Willemstad is famous for its composition, with the canvas divided into two
balanced parts: left and right contain a group of soldiers and
Road Map B4. * 2,300. a horse, while
@ n Lantern Dijk 12. ( Mon. the fore- and
background are
The Bastions of Willemstad
split into human
were built in 1583 by William
activity and the
of Orange. The Mauritshuis smouldering city
(1623), the former hunting behind. The work
lodge of Maurice, Prince of is also noted for
Orange, is today a museum. the lively way it
The influence of the Oranges portrays the men,
can also been seen in the white several of whom
Oranjemolen mill (1734). There look the viewer
is a pleasant harbour and a directly in the eye.
tree-lined Wedding Walk, The painting now
which leads to a domed church, hangs in Madrids
the Koepeikerk. Museo del Prado. The Surrender of Breda by Velzquez
are a clutch of striking modern was laid out for the team in
buildings, including the 1913. Guided tours allow visitors
Stadhuis, an imposing structure, to enter the players changing
surrounded by a large empty rooms and to walk down the
space, the Stadhuis Plein, and tunnel onto the pitch.
the more appealing train station Eindhovens most important
with its slender tower and sight, however, is the Van
glassy frontage. Abbemuseum, which is
The Philips Museum, in the
city centre, holds a fascinating
collection of electrical objects
dating back to the earliest
days of the company. On
display are dozens of the very
Woman in Green (1909) by Picasso, Van first light bulbs dating from
Abbemuseum (Eindhoven) the 19th century, beautiful
bakelite radios and hulking
8 Eindhoven cabinets from the birth of
Road Map C5. * 224,800. @
broadcasting. Visitors can
n Stationsplein 17 (040-2979115). learn about the history of light-
( Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun. bulb making, from hand-made
to mass-produced, and how
The old market town of the light bulb transformed
Eindhoven was merged with Eindhoven from a small town
the villages of Strijp, Woensel, into an industrial giant.
Tongelre, Stratum and Gestel A rather more surprising find
in the 19th century. The in the centre of this industrial
municipality of Eindhoven grew city is the Eindhoven Museum. Eindhoven Museum, one of the towns
enormously in the last century This open-air museum in the main attractions
when Philips, the electronics middle of the Genneper Park
company, sited its factory there. contains reconstructions of an devoted to modern art. The
Philipss best-known building, Iron Age village, a Viking original building was designed
the distinctive Witte Dame settlement and a medieval in 1936 by AJ Kropholler and
(White Lady) was built in 1922 town. Actors in costume people has been described as a
by architect Dirk Rozenberg; the scene, and are on hand to brick castle. In the 1990s,
it has now been sold and answer questions. Theres also a architect Abel Cahen was
converted into a design college, restaurant where visitors can eat commissioned to expand the
library and centre for artists. meals based on ancient recipes, museum. Cleverly integrating
The former Philips area in Strijp like grain stew and lentil pt. the existing building into a
is also being developed into a Looming over the railway large new wing, he quadrupled
residential area with shops, station is the space-age Philips the exhibition space and added
restaurants and theatres. Stadion, home of the PSV a restaurant and multimedia
The city centre was heavily Eindhoven football team. centre. Queen Beatrix opened
bombed in World War II and as The stadium, although ultra- the museum in January 2003.
a result very few old buildings modern these days, still stands The collection contains works
have survived. In their place on the spot where the first pitch by Chagall, Lissitzky and Beuys,
and is particularly known for
Picassos Woman in Green (1909).
E Philips Museum
Emmasingel 31. Tel 040-2359030.
E Eindhoven Museum
Boutenslaan 161b. Tel 040-2522281.
Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueSun.
E Philips Stadion
Frederiklaan 10a. Tel 040-2505505.
8 booking essential.
E Van Abbemuseum
Bilderdijklaan 10. Tel 040-2381000.
Open 11am5pm TueSun. & 7
Philips Stadion, home to the football team PSV Eindhoven - vanabbemuseum.nl
NORTH BRABANT 369
9 Heeze
Road Map C5. * 15,700. @
n Schoolstraat 2 (040-2260644).
( Thu am.
The 17th-century castle of

Kasteel Heeze is the centrepiece
of this small Brabant town, just
outside Eindhoven. Designed by
Pieter Post, it stands amid lovely
streams, woods and meadows.
Among the many exhibits set out
in the castles 30 halls are valuable
Gobelin tapestries.
+ Kasteel Heeze
Kapelstraat 25. Tel 040-2261431.
Open MaySep. & 8 MaySep:
2pm Wed, 2 & 3pm Sun (Jul & Aug: The vast Strabrechtse Heide at Heeze and Geldrop
also 2pm Wed).
E Vincentre w Deurne
Berg 29. Tel 040-2839615.
Road Map D5. * 32,000. @
0 Nuenen Open 10am5pm TueSun (Mon in
n Markt 14 (0493-323655). ( Fri pm.
summer only). & some public hols.
Road Map C5. * 22,700. @ n
Berg 29 (040-2839615). ( Mon pm. The relaxing town of Deurne
is an artistic centre. The house
Nuenen, northeast of Eindhoven, q Helmond (1922) of the extravagant
is the village where Van Gogh Road Map C5. * 90,100 @
doctor and painter Henrik
lived from 1883 to 1885. The n Watermolenwal 11 (0492-522220). Wiedersma, who used to make
Vincentre in Van Gogh Village ( Wed am, Sat am. house calls on his motorcycle,
deals comprehensively with his is now a museum of
time in Nuenen. The most outstanding feature expressionist works by the
of Helmond is the castle doctor and his avant-garde
dating from 1402, today the friends, including Ossip Zadkine,
Gemeentemuseum (local who often stayed with him.
history museum). The museum Poets such as Roland Holst,
has many historical artifacts and Nijhoff and Bloem were also
a fine collection of modern art, regular visitors to the house.
including works by Breitner and
Charley Toorop. E Museum De Wieger
Oude Liesselseweg 29. Tel 0493-322930.
E Gemeentemuseum Open noon5pm WedSun. Closed
Kasteelplein 1. Tel 0492-845980. Mon, Tue & most public hols. & -
The magnificent 17th-century Open 10am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
Kasteel Heeze Sat & Sun. & 7 8 -
e Gemert
Van Gogh in Brabant Road Map C5. * 27,300 (community
of Gemert-Bakel). @ n Ridderplein
Vincent van Gogh was born in 1853 49 (0492-366606). ( Mon pm.
in Zundert, south of Breda. There, in the
Cultureel Centrum, you can learn about Gemert is a town of historical
his childhood. In 1883, he moved to importance; its nickname was
Nuenen, where his father was rector. once Heerlijkheid Gemert
He stayed there until 1885, when he (glorious Gemert). Until 1794
moved on to Antwerp. The Nuenen it was ruled by the Knights of
period was very prolific for Van Gogh. the Teutonic Order: their castle
Rural life in Brabant inspired him, and he still stands and is now used
painted farms, labourers and weavers in
as a monastery.
the blue and brown tones that are so
The Boerenbondmuseum
characteristic of his Nuenen work.
A famous painting dating from this (agricultural museum) is in a
period is The Potato Eaters (1885). farmhouse dating from the
beginning of the 20th century;
Statue of Van Gogh in Nuenen the displays portray what rural
life was like at that time.
SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS 371
LIMBURG
Limburg is the Netherlands southernmost province, squeezed
by the course of history into its present unusual shape its
boundaries defined by Belgium to the south and to the
west and by Germany to the east. Yet its outline is not
the only remarkable thing about this delightful
multilingual province.
From a geological point of view, Limburg is Beaker Folk (see p46). The Romans were
much older than the rest of Holland, sitting here for around 400 years and Maastricht,
on coal deposits that are around 270 which they founded, has much evidence
million years old. In the mining museum of their impressive buildings. Heerlen was
at Kerkrade, east of Maastricht, you can see also an important Roman crossroads and
how coal used to be mined in this region. the bathhouse museum here makes an
The caves that can be seen in many places excellent and informative visit. In the
in South Limburg are also mines, albeit for Middle Ages, Limburg was split up and
the local limestone laid down between 60 fought over at various times by the
and 70 million years ago. The best-known German Empire, Gelder, Lige, Brabant
cave systems, parts of which date from and the Spanish. It acquired its present
the Roman era, are at Valkenburg and at borders in the 19th century. Nowadays
St Pietersberg near Maastricht. it has plenty to offer visitors, from historic
The Maas river valley has been attractive towns with fine architecture, shops and
to settlers since the last Ice Age. There is nightlife to countryside dotted with
evidence of early nomads, followed by the half-timbered houses, farms, water mills
remains of successive sedentary societies in the rivers, and countless castles and
such as the Bandkeramikers and the country houses.
Half-timbered houses in the South Limburg town of Cottessen

Statues on the estate of one of the castles in Valkenburg
Exploring Limburg MOOK
Noord Limburg is made up of the Peel and the Maas

regions. Between the River Maas and the German border
are nature reserves with fens, woodland, heathland and
river dunes. The former wilderness known as the
Peelgebied is on the border with North Brabant. Middle
Limburg is the section from the Maasplassen lakes,
which were created by the digging of gravel pits. It is
now one of the most important watersports areas in the
country. Zuid Limburg consists of Maastricht, the
Mijnstreek (mining country) and the pretty chalk-hill
Picking asparagus in Noord Limburg
landscape to the south.
Meijel
Nationaal
Park de
Grote Peel
Nederweert
National park of De Grote Peel WEERT LIM
Getting Around
Stramproy
Limburg is easily reached by rail and by road,
which are also the best ways to explore it. The
THORN
motorways and railways invariably follow the
same routes, that is to say: NijmegenVenlo Maasbracht
RoermondGeleenMaastricht, Weert
l
aa
(Roermond)GeleenMaastricht and, finally, the

an
0 kilometres
ak
10
triangle MaastrichtGeleenHeerlen. For cyclists
an
there are long sections of cycle paths along the

i
0 miles 10
Jul
Echt
Julianakanaal and the Zuid-Willemsvaart. The
south of Zuid Limburg in particular is simply Susteren
ideal for cycling (including racing) and rambling.
The tourist railway or environmental line from
Schin near Geul to Kerkrade via Wijlre, Eys and
s
SITTARD
aa
Simpelveld operates from April to October on

M
Sundays and most Wednesdays and Thursdays, Stein

with two steam trains and a rail-bus. Geleen
ELSLOO
Beek
Nuth
Meerssen
VALKENBURG
MAASTRICHT
Wijlre
H E GULPEN
UV
ELL
EIJSDEN AND
Limestone quarry with old passageways

LIMBURG 373
Sights at a Glance
1 Mook
2 Venray
3 Arcen
Gennep
4 Venlo
5 Weert
M
aa 6 Roermond
s
7 De Meinweg
Nieuw-Bergen 8 Maastricht pp37681
9 Thorn
0 Sittard
Well q Hoensbroek
w Heerlen
e Valkenburg
VENRAY
r Gulpen
t Elsloo
y Eijsden
ARCEN
u Vaals
Horst
Tour
Sevenum
i Heuvelland pp3845
Blerick
VENLO Field chapel in Heuvelland
Maasbree
Tegelen
Panningen
s
aa
M
Reuver
BURG
Swalmen Key
Motorway
ROERMOND Major road
Minor road
DE MEINWEG Scenic route
Major railway
Posterholt
Minor railway
Regional border
Brunssum
HOENSBROEK
Landgraaf
HEERLEN
Kerkrade
Simpelveld
VAALS
Kasteel Schaloen at Valkenburg (13th century), rebuilt in the 17th century
1 Mook
Road Map D4. * 825. @ 83.
n Witteweg 10, Plasmolen
(024-6961762).
The village of Mook is on the

River Maas in the very north
of Limburg. On 14 April 1574,
the Prince of Oranges army
was routed on the nearby
Mookerhei by the Spanish. The
star-shaped fortifications of the
Heumense Schans from the 80
Years War stand atop a 43-m
(141-ft) ridge from the Saalian
Ice Age. It offers a fantastic
vantage point from which to
view the Maas valley.
South of Mook is the recreation
area of the Mookerplas lake
and the fine estate of Sint
Jansberg, where the Bovenste
Plasmolen, an ancient watermill,
has been restored.
2 Venray
Road Map D5. * 43,000. @ 27, 29,
30, 39. n Passage 4, Venray (0478-
510505). ( Mon pm. The magnificent 16th-century Venlo town hall in the Markt
During World War II, Noord course. You can also take the 4 Venlo
Limburg was the scene of heavy waters at the Thermaalbad Road Map D5. * 100,000. @
fighting. An English and a Arcen spa; its mineral-rich water n Klasstraat 17, Bookstore Koops
German (at Ysselsteyn) military is extracted from 900 m (2,955 ft) (077-3543800). ( Fri pm, Sat.
cemetery lie near the town. underground. Other local delights
Nearby Overloon is home to the include special Arcen beer, The combined city of Venlo/
Oorlogs-en Verzetsmuseum asparagus (with an asparagus Blerick began as a Roman
(War and Resistance Museum). market on Ascension Day), and settlement. In the Middle Ages
In 1944, Venray was largely the drink distilled by the Branderij it grew rich on trade. The
destroyed. The 15th-century De IJsvogel, housed in the 17th- 15th-century St Martinuskerk, a
basilica of St Petrus Banden, century Wijmarsche water mill. Gothic hall-type church, and Ald
with its magnificent interior, Outside Arcen is the Nationaal Weishoes, a Latin school built in
was given a new 80-m (262-ft) Park Landgoed de Hamert. the Gelderland Renaissance style
tower in restoration works. The dating from 1611, are among
Geijsteren estate on the Maas, Y Kasteeltuinen the few historical buildings to
where old Maas terraces are Lingsforterweg 26. Tel 077-4736010. have survived World War II. The
visible in the terrain, is an Open Aprlate Oct: 10am6pm town hall was designed between
outstanding rambling area. daily. Closed rest of the year. & 1597 and 1600 by Willem van
-= Bommel. The local Museum
Van Bommel-Van Dam features
3 Arcen modern art; the Limburgs
Road Map D5. * 9,000. @ 83.
Museum, archaeological finds.
n Klasstraat 17, Bookstore Koops
E Museum Van Bommel-
(077-3543800).
Van Dam
The main attraction of Arcen, Deken van Oppensingel 6. Tel 077-
picturesquely located on the 3513457. Open 11am5pm TueSun.
Maas, is the finely restored Closed Mon, 1 Jan, Carnival, 25 Dec.
17th-century Arcen castle with its E Limburgs Museum
Kasteeltuinen (castle gardens). Keulsepoort 5. Tel 077-3522112.
They incorporate a rose garden, Open 11am5pm TueSun.
subtropical gardens, Eastern Exquisite gardens of the 17th-century Closed 1 Jan, Carnival, 25 Dec.
gardens, a pine forest and a golf Arcen castle limburgsmuseum.nl
LIMBURG 375
5 Weert
Road Map C5. * 49,000.
n Markt 11 (0495-534211). ( Sat.
The jewel of Weert is the

St Martinuskerk, one of the few
Late Gothic hall-type churches
in Holland (in hall-type churches,
the side aisles are equal in height
and width to the nave). When
restoration works were carried
out around 1975, paintings from
the 15th and 16th centuries
were discovered beneath the
layers of whitewash on the
vaulted ceilings. Before the high
altar (1790), by Italians Moretti
and Spinetti, lies the tomb of the Interior of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwemunsterkerk in Roermond
lord of Weert, beheaded in 1568
on the order of Alva in Brussels. church of Our Lady), which 7 De Meinweg
Not far from the church is the was originally the church of a Road Map D6. * none. @ 78, 79.
Ursulinenhof, an example of a Cistercian abbey. The interior of n Beheerseenheid De Meinweg,
new building successfully the church is worth a visit. The Bezoekerscentrum, Meinweg 2,
integrated into a St Christoffelkathedraal, a Herkenbosch (0475-528500).
historical centre. Gothic cruciform basilica
Surrounding areas with a gilded statue of The national park of De Meinweg
such as Weerterbos St Christopher on the in the east of the province pos-
forest and the tower, dates from the sesses a unique natural beauty.
Nationaal Park early 15th century. The Nine hiking routes have been
De Grote Peel are Limburg asparagus churchs stained-glass laid out here. You can also tour
remnants of a region windows are by the local the park by horse-drawn cart,
of peat moors. glazier Joep Nicolas. accompanied by expert guides.
Roermond is by the
Maasplassen lakes, one of
6 Roermond the countrys largest areas for
Dr PJH Cuypers
Road Map D5. * 57,000.
watersports. The lakes cover Architect Pierre Cuypers was
n Markt 17 (0475-335847). more than 300 ha (740 acres) born in Roermond in 1827. He
( Wed pm, Sat. and have a length of approxi- lived and worked both in his
mately 25 km (15 miles). The hometown and in Amsterdam.
The oldest church in the see Maasplassen were created One of Cuypers sons and one
of Roermond is the 13th- through large-scale gravel of his nephews also became
century Late Romanesque, quarrying in the Maas valley, renowned architects.
Early Gothic Onze-Lieve- which went on as far as Considered one of the prime
representatives of the
Vrouwemunsterkerk (minster Maaseik in Belgium.
Netherlands Neo-Gothic,
Cuypers designed the Central
Station and the Rijksmuseum
in Amsterdam, and De Haar
castle in Haarzuilens. He was
also the architect and restorer
of countless churches,
including the munsterkerk
(minster church) in Roermond.
Munsterkerk in Roermond
The 1,600-ha (3,955-acre) De Meinweg national park
8 Street-by-Street: Maastricht
Maastricht emerged in Roman times at a point along the River
Maas which could be crossed on foot (Mosae Traiectum), on
the Roman road that led from Colonia Agrippina (Cologne) to
Bononia (Boulogne). The founder of Christian Maastricht was
St Serviatus, bishop of Tongeren, who died in AD 384 in
Maastricht and was buried in the cemetery then located
outside the town walls. The magnificent basilica of St Servaas
Sculpture of Pieke
was built over his tomb. In addition to the basilica, another This sculpture in
fine church is the Romanesque Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek. Stokstraat is of Pieke and
his dog, from a book by
Ber Hollewijn.
T
RK
MA
SPI
HT
LST
AC
GR
TE
RAA
O
GR
T
HE
The Generaalshuis
LM
Now the Theater aan het Vrijthof, this

ST
Neo-Classical palace was built in 1809.

RA
General Dibbets, who succeeded in

S TA
AT
keeping Maastricht part of the

TEN
Netherlands, lived here around 1830.

STR
AA
T
Key
Recommended route VRIJTHOF
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
In den Ouden
Vogelstruys
One of the many
street cafs
flanking the
. Cemetery Vrijthof, this lively,
Now one of the citys main squares, the cemetery popular spot
was located outside the town walls when the serves a small
construction of St Servaas began. selection of meals.
MAASTRICHT 377
. Stadhuis VISITORS CHECKLIST

The town hall on the
Markt was built in
15591664 and is a
Road Map C6. * 122,500.
masterpiece by Pieter n Kleine Staat 1 (043-3252121).
Post of the Northern ( MonSat. _ Amstel Gold
Netherlands. The lobby
Race (cycling classic): Apr;
is open to visitors.
Vrijthof Fair; St Servaas
procession: May; Preuvenemint
culinary festival: end of Aug.
Transport
Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.
St Servaasbrug
This bridge is a solid yet elegant structure of seven
semicircular arches dating from 1280. Ships can
reach the Wyck side through a modern section.
KL
AT
EI
TA
TE S
N
GRO
E
ST
T
RAA
AA
RU GST
M B
T
MA
LEL
AS
A AT
IEST
BO
R
M SMEDEN ST
W O L F S T R A AT
UL
RAA
EV
AR
T
AT
RA
D
T
LS
MINCKELERST
IE
AT
PL
T
RAA
R A AT
KST
STO
N
PLA
KST
RAA
T
. Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek
In one of the
chapels of this The Wall Lizard
Romanesque This animal can
cruciform basilica be seen in parts
is the votive of Maastricht, the
statue of Our Lady only Dutch town
Sterre der Zee. it occurs in.
Bonnefantenmuseum
The Bonnefantenmuseum is one of Maastrichts
most prominent landmarks, situated on the
right bank of the Maas in a distinctive building
designed by the Italian architect Aldo Rossi.
The museums exhibits include old masters,
painting and sculpture from the medieval . Cupola by Aldo Rossi
The tower houses a restaurant
period to 1650, and a celebrated international and an exhibition hall.
collection of modern art.
La Natura lArte
del Numero
This installation, designed by
Mario Merz, consists of tables
covered with glass, branches,
stones, vegetables and
numbers fashioned out of
fluorescent tubes.
Cimon and Pero

Peter Paul Rubens (15771640)
depicted Pero feeding her
starving father Cimon while he
awaited execution in prison.
KEY
1 Plattegronden by Ren Daniels

(b. 1950) is a simplified re-creation
of a museum hall. Daniels painted
yellow rectangles over the red flat
paintings, which are out of sync with
the perspective of the hall, thus
creating a disorienting effect. . Wood Carvings
2 Terrace The fine collection of
medieval wood carvings
3 Domed hall
includes St Anna-te-Drien, a
4 Inner tower walnut sculpture by Jan van
Steffeswert (14701525).
MAASTRICHT 379
Bonnefantopia
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The Rotterdam
group of artists
Atelier van Lieshout
Avenue Cramique 250.
created this large
Tel 043-3290190.
installation in 2002.
bonnefanten.nl
It features stylized
Open 11am5pm TueSun &
polyester bodies
public hol Mon. Closed 1 Jan,
hanging, squatting
Carnival, 25 Dec. & for temp
and lying down
exhibits. = 0 -
throughout
the structure. Transport
@ 1, 3, 50, 53, 54, 57.
View on a City
from a River
by Jan Brueghel the
Elder (15681625).
Entrance
Museum Guide
The Bonnefantenmuseum
was designed by Aldo Rossi. It has
a permanent collection of early
and contemporary art; in addition,
a range of temporary exhibitions
are organized. The highlight of the
museum is its magnificent collection
of medieval wood carvings.
. Staircase St Stephen
The monumental staircase runs Giovanni del Biondo (135699)
through the middle of the museum painted this work, thought to be
and leads into the different wings part of a triptych, as the panel has
and floors of the museum. signs of being cut with a saw.
Exploring Maastricht
Maastricht is considered to be one of the oldest towns in
Holland. It was the seat of the countrys first bishopric and
an impressive fortress. It has some outstanding historical
monuments, including the Romanesque Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek (Basilica of Our Lady); the Romanesque
St Servaas Basilica, with a very old crypt and a carved Gothic
portal (early 13th century); a scattering of Gothic churches;
a Baroque church formerly belonging to the Augustine order
(1661); and a Walloon church from 1733. A great deal remains
of the fortifications, including Roman foundations, part of
the medieval wall, a 17th-century bastion, and 18th- and
19th-century reinforcement works. The medieval Helpoort gate, the oldest city
gate in the country
E Natuurhistorisch the Romans settled in 50 BC
Museum and where the district of P Helpoort
De Bosquetplein 7. Tel 043-3505490. Stokstraat, with its medieval St Bernardusstraat 24b. Tel 043-
Open 11am5pm TueFri, 15pm Sat and Golden Age buildings, now 3212586. Open Easter DayOct, 12:30
& Sun. Closed some public hols. & lies. The pavement of Op de 4:30pm daily. & voluntary donation.
This attractive natural history Thermen, a small and peaceful The Helpoort gate, dating from
museum showcases the natural square in this district where the the early 13th century, also
history of the south of Limburg original Roman fort once was, forms part of the early medieval
through the ages. Highlights has been
of the museum include the marked with
remains of the enormous the outlines of
mosasaur and giant tortoises the old Roman
found in the limestone strata baths. The first
of St Pietersberg. medieval wall
around
P Roman Foundations Maastricht
of the Tower dates from
OL Vrouweplein. Tel 043-3251851. around 1229.
Open timings vary, call to check. Of these, the
In the courtyard of the Onze- Onze-Lieve-
Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek you can Vrouwewal
see the foundations of a Roman which has
tower which was once part of cannons Mosasaurus hofmanni in the natural history museum, known
the Roman castellum. The standing in locally as the terrible Maas lizard
castellum stood on the banks of front of it and
the River Maas, just south of the the Jekertoren tower can town fortifications. It stood at
St Servaasbrug bridge, where still be seen. the southern end of the town
and is the oldest surviving town
gate in Holland, and the only
one still standing in Maastricht.
Other structures from this
period can be seen across the
River Maas in Wyck: the
Waterpoortje gate, the Stenen
Wal (wall) along the river, and
the Maaspunttoren. The second
medieval fortifications, made
necessary by the rapid growth
of the city, were built around
1350. Of these, the Pater
Vinktoren near the Helpoort
gate, and the romantic
embankment wall and the
semicircular towers known
as De Vijf Koppen and Haet
ende Nijt continue to
The impressive Pater Vink tower survive to this day.
MAASTRICHT 381
E Museum Spaans
Gouvernement
Vrijthof 18. Tel 043-3211327.
Closed public hols. &
This museum, housed in a
16th-century chapterhouse,
features period rooms from the
17th and 18th centuries, and
Dutch paintings from that era.
P Centre Cramique
Avenue Cramique 50. Tel 043-350
5600. Open call ahead or check
website. Closed Mon & public hols.
& = centreceramique.nl
This information centre has a
library, archive, cafs and the
European Journalism Centre.
T Grotten St-Pietersberg Crypt in the eastern part of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek

Luikerweg. 8 phone for details
(043-3252121). & - 0 earliest Gothic buildings in the well as commissioning new
The famous St Peters caves were Maasland region. This portal is murals and ceiling paintings.
created when limestone was dedicated to St Mary, with These were repainted during a
quarried through the centuries. representations of her life, subsequent restoration, which
Eventually a maze of over 20,000 death and Assumption in the was completed in 1990.
passageways came into being. arch. The side chapels and
Some of the inscriptions on the the Gothic transept date from R Onze-Lieve-
walls are very old, and reveal approximately 1475. Vrouwebasiliek
artistic skills of the miners. Highlights of the basilicas O-L-Vrouweplein. Treasury: Tel 043-
treasury are the 12th-century 3561330. Open timings vary, call to
reliquary containing the relics check. Church: Closed during services.
of St Servatius and St Martin of Construction of Onze-Lieve-
Tongeren, and the golden bust Vrouwebasiliek began around
of St Servatius. The latter was 1000. The oldest part of the
donated to the town by the basilica is the imposing west
Duke of Parma when Maastricht faade. Once this was
was captured by the Spaniards completed, work began on the
in 1579. nave and transept. The chancel
The Gothic Bergportaal (15th century) of During the 19th century, followed in the 12th century,
the St-Servaasbasiliek thorough restoration works built over an 11th-century crypt.
were undertaken by Pierre The apse pillars, made from
R St-Servaasbasiliek Cuypers. He restored the limestone, are crowned with
Keizer Karelplein 7. Tel 043-3212082. western end to its original lavishly sculpted capitals, such
Open 10am5pm MonSat, 12:30 Romanesque splendour, as as the renowned Heimokapiteel.
6pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Carnival,
25 Dec.
Construction on St Servatius
The Reliquary of St Servatius
Basilica began around the year The magnificent restored reliquary is
1000 on the spot where the a monumental shrine containing the
saint was buried (upon which relics of St Servatius and St Martin
stood an earlier church). The of Tongeren. It is made of wood
nave, the crypt, the transept covered with embossed gilded
copper plate in the shape of a
and the chancel are the oldest
house. It dates from about 1160
parts of the basilica, dating back
and was built by artists from the
to the 11th century. The apse Maasland region. The front of the
and the two chancel towers reliquary depicts Christ, with the
were built in the following 12 apostles along the sides, and
century. The western end also St Servatius surrounded by angels
dates from the 12th century. on the back. The roof of the house
The southern Bergportaal gate is decorated with scenes from
dates from the early 13th the Last Judgement. The 12th-century reliquary
century, and is one of the
q Hoensbroek
Road Map D6. * 25,500.
n Bongerd 19, Heerlen (0900-
5559798). ( Fri am.
Before the state-run Emma

mine was opened here in
1908, Hoensbroek was a sleepy
farming town. It subsequently
grew into the centre of the
Dutch coal-mining industry. Its
industrial importance waned
with the closing of the mines.
Kasteel Hoensbroek was built
in the Middle Ages. All that
remains of the original castle
is the round corner-tower. The
wings and towers around the
rectangular inner courtyard date
from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The impressive medieval Kasteel Hoensbroek The castle is moated and today
functions as a cultural centre.
9 Thorn end of the 19th century by
Road Map D5. * 2,600. @ 72, 73, 76.
renowned architect Pierre
n Wijngaard 8 (0475-561085). Cuypers, who also added a
splendid Gothic tower. Clara
Southeast of Weert on the A2 Elisabeth van Manderscheidt-
is the little town of Thorn, Blankenheim, a canoness of the
which with its picturesque foundation, founded the Kapel
narrow streets and houses, van O-L-Vrouwe onder de
historical farm buildings and Linden (Chapel of Our Lady
monumental Abbey Church under the Linden) north of the
looks like an open-air museum. town in 1673.
For some 800 years, until 1794,
Thorn was the capital of an
autonomous secular foundation 0 Sittard Thermae at the Thermenmuseum
headed by an abbess. The Road Map D6. * 46,500.
Wijngaard, the village square, is n Kitzraedhuis, Rosmolenstraat 2 w Heerlen
surrounded by whitewashed (0900-5559798). ( Thu am, Sat. Road Map D6. * 87,500.
houses where the noble ladies n Bongerd 19 (0900-5559798).
of the foundation once lived. In the 13th century, Sittard was ( Tue, Thu am & Fri.
The 14th-century abbey church granted its town charter and
with its 18th-century interior built its defensive walls, of The Roman town of Coriovallum
was thoroughly restored at the which considerable sections has been discovered beneath
remain intact, including Fort Heerlen. The Thermenmuseum
Sanderbout. The Grote Kerk, or contains the foundations of
St Petruskerk, built around 1300, the ancient thermae and
is worth a visit. The 80-m (262-ft) many everyday items from
tower is built of layers of Roman times. Romanesque
alternating brick and limestone St Pancratiuskerk dates back
blocks, or speklagen (bacon to the 12th century. In the
layers). In the Markt is the 20th century, until 1974,
17th-century Baroque Heerlen was the centre of coal
St Michielskerk; Our Lady of mining in Limburg. FPJ Peutz
the Sacred Heart basilica stands built the town hall and Schunck
in the Oude Markt. The oldest department store (known as
house in Sittard is the half- the Glaspaleis, or crystal palace)
timber house built in 1530 on in the 1930s.
the corner of the Markt and the
Gats and containing the De E Thermenmuseum
Gats coffee house. The Jacob Coriovallumstraat 9. Tel 045-5605100.
Kritszraedthuis, a patrician Open 10am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
house, was built in 1620 in Sat, Sun & public hols. Closed 1 Jan,
A whitewashed house in Thorn Maasland Renaissance style. Carnival, 24 & 25 Dec. & 8 =
LIMBURG 383
e Valkenburg
Road map D6. * 5,500. @ 36,
47, 63. n Th. Dorrenplein 5 (0900-
5559798). ( Mon am, Tue am.
The old fortified town of

Valkenburg, situated in an area
dotted with castles, is popular
with visitors. In addition to
sights such as the old gates of
Berkelpoort and Grendelpoort,
a 13th-century Romanesque
church and the ruins of a
12th-century castle, there are
many new attractions, such
as a casino, catacombs, the
Fluweelen cave, Gemeentegrot
(a Roman quarry and cave Picturesque sloping streets of the Maasland village of Elsloo
complex), a cable car, the
Prehistorische Monstergrot and built on the site of a Roman Master of Elsloo. Remnants of
the Steenkolenmijn (coal mine). temple from 2,000 years ago, Elsloos earliest castle can be
is now a hotel and restaurant. seen in the middle of the river
T Gemeentegrot Beside the castle is the at low water. Of the later Kasteel
Cauberg 4. Tel 043-6012271. Neubourgermolen mill, with Elsloo, only one tower survives.
Open 11am5pm daily Closed 1 Jan, a fish ladder for trout. The
Carnival, 25 Dec. & 8 guided Gulpen brewery is worth a
tours only. * visit. The common kingfisher y Eijsden
can be seen here.
Road Map C6.
* 4,800.
r Gulpen @ 58, 59.
Road Map D6. * 7,500. @ 150. t Elsloo n Diepstraat 31
n Dorpsstraat 27 (0900-5559798). Road Map D6. * 8,650. @ 93. (0900-5559798).
( Thu morning. n Kitzraedhuis, Rosmolenstraat 2, ( Thu pm.
Sittard (0900-5559798).
Gulpen lies at the confluence Eijsden, the
of the Geul and Gulp streams. Artifacts from the prehistoric southernmost Kingfisher
The towns surrounding pottery culture found at Elsloo municipality in the
countryside, with its half- are on display in the Maasland Netherlands, is a protected rural
timbered houses, water mills local history museum, De area. There is a pleasant walk to
and orchards, is probably the Schippersbeurs. In the be had along the Maas quay.
prettiest in Limburg. Hiking Waterstaatskerk, dating from Kasteel Eijsden was built in 1636
routes are marked. The 1848, is the 16th-century in the Maasland Renaissance
17th-century Kastell Neubourg, St-Anna-te-Drien by the style on the foundations of an
earlier stronghold. The castle is
not open to the public, but the
park makes for a nice stroll.
u Vaals
Road Map D6. * 9,600. @ 50.
n Landal Maastrichterlaan 73a
(0900-5559798). ( Tue am.
Vaals wooded countryside is

known for the Drielandenpunt,
from which three countries are
visible. At 322 m (1,058 ft), it
is also the highest point in
Holland. Worth visiting are
Kasteel Vaalsbroek and the
Von Clermonthuis; both date
from the 18th century. De
Kopermolen, once a church,
Limburgs scenic countryside, with the meandering Jeker river is now a museum.
i Heuvelland 3 The orchid garden in the traffic-free

Gerendal, a dry valley between Schin op
Geul and Scheulder, is the pride of the
In the Zuid Limburg region of Heuvelland,
region. The garden was laid out by the
the hills and the river valleys are covered national forestry commission and is
with fertile loess soil, which occurs nowhere situated behind the foresters lodge.
else in Holland. In the peaceful rolling Twenty varieties of wild orchid grow here.
countryside, with its stunning views, is a
region of wooded banks, orchards and fields,
dotted with picturesque villages and castles,
and criss-crossed by narrow roads passing
through cuttings with roadside shrines and
field chapels. Heuvelland just may be one of Bunde
al
as
na
the prettiest parts of Holland.
Ma
aka
Meerssen
ian
Jul
Rothem
Maastricht Cadier
2 The Basilica of the Holy Sacrament
in Meerssen, built in the late 14th century en keer
of limestone in Maasland Gothic style, is
one of the most elegant churches in all of
Holland. The chancel features a lavishly
decorated tabernacle.
Al
be
rtk
an
aa
l
Sint-geertruid
J
Eijsden
as
Ma
8 Kasteel Eijsden was built in

the Maasland Renaissance style
in 1636. This style is easily
distinguished by its combined
use of brick and stone masonry,
with stone being used to frame 1 Grape-growing in Zuid Limburg
doors and windows. In the past, grape-growing and wine-making was
more widely practised in Zuid Limburg than it is
today. For example, in the 18th century, there
were at least 200 ha (495 acres) of vineyards
Tips for Drivers on and around St-Pietersberg. Today, a few
Tour length: 80 km (50 miles).
small professional vineyards can still be
Part of the route passes through found in the region, the most famous being
hilly areas with narrow roads. the Apostelhoeve. On this vine-growing
Stopping-off points: especially estate situated to the the south of Maastricht
good viewing points are to be on the Louwberg above the de Jeker valley,
found at Noorbeek, Slenaken white wine is made from Mller-Thrgau,
and Epen. Riesling, Auxerrois and Pinot Gris grapes. Grapes from Limburg

HEUVELLAND 385
Key
Tour route
Other road
Railway
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
4 The American War Cemetery at
Margraten contains the graves of 8,300
American soldiers who died in World
War II, marked by plain white crosses.
Valkenburg
Houthem
Schin op
geul
Sibbe
5 In Vijlen is
Hollands tallest
Gulpen church, its steeple
Margraten visible from afar.
J
J
Mechelen
Vijlen
Mheer
J
Epen
J
J
J
Noorbeek Slenaken Vaals

J
J
7 Rambling in the Geuldal

At Epen, turn off towards
Plaat and take the road to the
fulling mill in Geul. Carry on
6 Large stretches of after the bridge. A path on
forest are rare in Zuid the opposite side follows the
Limburg. Exceptions are river upstream into Belgium.
the Boswachterij Vaals Along the Geul are poplars
with the Vijlenerbos with mistletoe growing in
forest, and the forests by the branches, which can be
the Brunsummerheide seen particularly well in
(Brunsummer heath). winter. The path leads past
Here the woods cover the Heimansgroeve, a quarry
the landscape and there for rock from the
are lots of springs. Carboniferous period.
TRAVELLERS
NEEDS
Where to Stay 388401

Where to Eat and Drink 402415
Shopping in
the Netherlands 416421
Entertainment in
the Netherlands 422427
388 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
The Netherlands offers a variety of hotels, hostels or B&Bs. Campers, too, will
accommodation to suit every travellers be spoiled for choice here, with numerous
tastes and needs, ranging from inexpensive campsites and caravan parks, often situated
backpacker hostels to pricey chteau in stunning locations. For those who intend
living. Visitors can choose to stay in one to stay in a particular area over a longer
of the luxury chain hotels here, which period of time, camping is an especially
vary from bland to spectacular, but there economical option. Visitors who need more
is also good accommodation to be found spacious or convenient accommodation
in historical castles, convents, prisons, can book one of the 350-odd bungalow
mansions and in one case, a harbour parks in the country, or rent an apartment
crane that have been converted into in one of the many coastal towns.
Hotel Types Hotel Chains

There is a huge variation in Most major hotel
the price, quality and facilities chains are represented
offered by different hotels. The in the Netherlands,
choice is greatest in Amsterdam including Best
and the larger cities, where Western, Golden
there is something to suit every Tulip, Hilton,
travellers pocket. There are also Holiday Inn,
plenty of choices further afield, Mercure, NH and
generally at lower rates. After Radisson. Most of
hotels, bed-and-breakfast (B&B) these can be found
accommodation is also plentiful. in the bigger cities,
As these lodgings are offered although some are
by individuals rather than by situated in country
chains, this type of accom- areas also. Chain Stylish interiors of the Het Arresthuis, Roermond (see p401)
modation may vary greatly in hotels range in
nature and level of comfort quality from fair to excellent, Categories
one night you might be staying and in size from large to All hotels in the Netherlands
in a family home, and the next massive, and cater to tourists are categorized according to
in a chic country estate. The and business travellers alike. international standards under
least expensive form of Their scale, and often their the Netherlands Hotel
overnight accommodation internationally recognized style, Classification system, which
is in a hostel. Stayokay runs mean that chain hotels are awards each hotel with one to
25 well-appointed hostels generally less personal than five stars. Hoteliers class their
throughout the country, individually operated hotels, but hotels themselves, after which
ranging from a house on the when you spend the night in an inspection is carried out by
top of a dune to a medieval one of these, you are usually an independent organization.
castle, and featuring dormitories assured of a competitively The number of stars awarded
or private rooms. priced and hassle-free stay. to each hotel depends on the
facilities it offers: the more stars
it has, the more luxurious it is. A
one-star hotel is basic and may
or may not offer breakfast. In
two-star hotels, at least 25 per
cent of the rooms will have their
own bathroom or shower and
WC. These hotels will also have
a guest lounge, and a lift if they
are more than three storeys high.
Three-star hotels are considered
middle of the range. Their rooms
have central heating, and at least
half have their own bathrooms.
Four-star hotels will have a night
bar; also 80 per cent of their
rooms will have en suite bath-
Chteau De Havixhorst (see p400) in De Schiphorst rooms, and all of them have
A typical boat restaurant in South Holland
W H E R E TO S TAY 389
from spring until autumn or

further afield from late spring
until early autumn. On the coast
and on the islands, any month
other than July or August is
considered off-season.
Bookings can be made directly
with the hotel by telephone or
email, or in person at the recep-
tion, although this often means
you pay the standard room price,
which is usually higher than the
more competitive rates found
online. Unless a hotel or chain
offers a best rate guarantee
when booking through their
Colourful decor at Harbour Crane (see p399), Harlingen website, the lowest rates are
often found through dedicated
telephones. A five-star hotel will be specifically stated. If not, do hotel-booking websites like
belong to the deluxe category, check, as breakfast in a luxury Expedia.nl, Hotels.nl and
with 24-hour service, large hotel can be expensive. Booking.com. The best way of
rooms with en-suite facilities, Obviously, a five-star hotel is searching for individual hotels
a restaurant and so on. pricier than a three-star. Hotels or a particular chain is by name.
Although this classification in larger cities, in Amsterdam in The price differences found on
system does provide an insight particular, are relatively more different websites for the same
into the hotels level of amenities, expensive than those further room in the same hotel at the
it looks exclusively only at the afield, although in the city it is same dates can be astounding;
facilities and amenities provided easier to find hotels in wider- it pays to compare prices
by the hotel. ranging price categories and good through a meta search engine
deals can be found off-season. such as Travelsupermarket.com,
As many hotels have abolished Lookingforbooking.com or
Apartments dedicated single rooms, solo Hotelscombined.com the latter
Staying in a self-catering travellers often end up paying also has a clever iPhone app.
apartment or holiday home only slightly less than the same No-frills hotels, such as
is an increasingly popular accommodation would cost two CitizenM, Yotel, Qbic and
alternative to hotels or hostels people sharing. Kids under the easyHotel, that offer tiny yet
and can be an economical choice, age of 12 can usually stay free of smart rooms at the lowest
particularly if you are travelling charge or at a much reduced rate, possible price, can usually be
in a group. Accommodation if they share their parents room. booked only through their
ranges from a private room in own respective websites.
the countryside with basic and Stayokay hostels can be
sometimes shared facilities to Booking Accommodation booked through their own
a sleek city loft with five-star High season runs pretty much website, Stayokay.nl, while a
amenities. Some apartments year-round in Amsterdam. In wider choice of International
might require a minimum stay, winter, with the exception of Youth Hostel Federation (IYHF)
especially in high season, and it Christmas and New Years, visitors and non-IYHF hostels around
is always a good idea to inquire will manage to find a room, but the country can be booked
if there are any additional or at all other times it is wise to through Hostels.com,
hidden fees, such as key money book well in advance. In other Hostelbookers.com or
or cleaning cost. On the coast major cities, high season runs Hostelworld.com.
and on the islands there are Many B&Bs can
apartment-hotels, which are be booked through
apartment buildings with hotel Bedandbreakast.nl.
facilities, such as a reception, Airbnb.nl offers an
restaurant and swimming pool. equally wide range
of B&Bs, plus private
rooms, apartments
Prices and holiday homes.
Room prices always include The VVV tourist
VAT (BTW). Tourist tax information offices
(toeristenbelasting) varies by around the country
municipality and is often but can also assist visitors
not always included. Breakfast is in booking suitable
often included, but this should Faade of Stempels (see p397) in Haarlem accommodation.
steps and stairs prevent this.

Hotels that do have wheelchair
access, but no lifts, will have
some accessible rooms on the
ground floor. Some websites,
like Hotels.com and Booking.
com, allow you to search for
or filter by hotels with facilities
for people with disabilities.
However, it is always best to
consult the hotel directly before
you book.
Gay Hotels
The days of Amsterdam being
The bar of the Hotel Van der Werff (see p398) on Schiermonnikoog the gay capital of Europe may
be gone, according to many
Payment theme; for example, a cycling locals, but the city still has a
Major credit cards are accepted or rambling package may lot to offer to gay and lesbian
at almost every hotel. If you include cycle hire, or a wellness travellers. A number of hotels
provide your credit card details package may include a couples cater exclusively to gay guests,
at the time of booking, it is massage at the hotel spa. Such of which the Amistad, with its
usually used as a guarantee and packages can be an economical fresh interior and smart rooms,
your card will not be actually choice. Packages can be booked and Quentin Golden Bear
charged until checkout. through the hotel booking Hotel, with comfortable rooms
However, advance payment websites mentioned in the (although some with shared
may be required in some cases, directory. Attractive deals can facilities), are great choices.
for example when booking at also be found through group Then there is a choice of
a highly discounted rate or deal websites like Groupon.com hotels that are regarded as
special package, in which case and LivingSocial.com, although gay-friendly by the International
your credit card will be charged you need to be flexible, as the Gay & Lesbian Travel Association
immediately. Most hotels will timeframes for booking and (Iglta.org), including the hip
charge a no-show fee, up to travelling are usually limited. Lloyd and the posh Grand. No
or even extending the full room hotel in Amsterdam would turn
rate, if you do not show up away a same-sex couple, but
without prior cancellation. Travellers with another particularly welcoming
As always, watch out for any Disabilities lodging, that is popular with
hidden charges, especially Many large hotels are fully women, is the Quentin.
when using the express accessible for wheelchairs. At gay tourist information
checkout service that many Smaller hotels may be less centres, such as Gaytic on
hotels offer. accessible, particularly those Spuistraat, visitors can pick
in historic buildings where up a free gay tourist kit and
Discounts
Many hotels and chains offer
early bird discounts for rooms
booked well in advance. Hotels
that cater mainly to business
travellers during the week, will
often offer discounts to leisure
travellers over the weekend
and conversely, hotels that are
usually full with tourists at the
weekends may offer reductions
on weekdays.
Packages
Many hotels offer special
packages of one or two nights,
with breakfast and dinner
included. These packages are
often based on a particular InterContinental Amstel (see p397) in Amsterdam (right), with its picturesque location
get more information on

gay-friendly hotels as well
as the gay scene in the city.
Recommended Hotels
The hotels listed on pages
396401 vary significantly in
both class and cost, and are
considered the best choice in
terms of price, charm or location.
To help you find accommodation
that suits your personal taste,
we have divided the entries into
six categories: Charming, Hotels
with Character, Historic, Family- Grand Hotel de Kromme Raake (see p399) in Eenrum, with a traditional in-built bed
friendly, Design and Luxury.
Some hotels are better than cube houses or a hotel that also gain a memorable experience.
others and a few stand out for consists of individually decorated These highly recommended
a particular reason, such as a rooms spread out over several hotels are marked as DK Choice.
romantic atmosphere, a fantastic private homes, to a deluxe suite The DK Choice hotels are extra
spa or a stunning location. For in a converted Ilyushin airliner special. These hotels may have
each region we have handpicked or a room with a dazzling view above average standards, or a
one such exceptional lodging, in a dockside crane. Here you breathtaking location, or they
ranging from an inexpensive will not only be guaranteed a may simply have a charm that
hostel in a bunch of peculiar comfortable nights sleep, but sets them apart.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Types Compare prices Gay Hotels Sir Albert
travelsuper Gaytic Information Albert Cuypstraat 2,
Stayokay
stayokay.com market.com Centre De Pijp, 1072 CT
lookingfor Spuistraat 44 Amsterdam.

Hotel Chains 1012 DV Amsterdam.
booking.nl Tel (020) 305 3020.
Best Western Tel (020) 330 1461
hotelscombined.com siralberthotel.com
bestwestern.nl gaytic.nl
Golden Tulip Dutch Tourist Office

Hotel Amistad
goldentulip.com holland.com Kerkstraat 42
Hilton Hostel booking 1017 GM Amsterdam.
hilton.com/ Tel (020) 624 8074.
websites
netherlands amistad.nl
stayokay.com
Holiday Inn
hostels.com Quentin Amsterdam
holidayinn.nl
Hotel
hostelbookers.com
Mercure Leidsekade 89
mercure.com hostelworld.com
1017 PN Amsterdam.
NH Hotels Hotel booking Tel (020) 626 2187.
nh-hotels.com quentinamsterdam.
websites
Radisson Blu hotels.nl com
radissonblu.com
booking.com Quentin Golden Bear
Booking expedia.nl Hotel
Accommodation Kerkstraat 37
VVV Netherlands BV
1017 GB Amsterdam.
B&B booking
Umbrella organisation for Tel (020) 624 4785.
websites
bedandbreakfast.nl Dutch tourist offices. quentingolden
airbnb.com vvv.nl bear.com
Bungalow Parks
The Netherlands has at least 350 holiday villages
(bungalowparken), with dozens to hundreds of bungalows TERSCHELLING
or cabins, many designed for four to eight persons, together WEST FRISIAN
with numerous facilities such as supermarkets and restaurants. ISLANDS
They also provide many recreation facilities, some open-air and VLIELAND
others indoors for days when the weather is not at its best. SLUFTERVALLEI
KRIM
Rental is by the week, midweek or weekend, with arrival and PARC TEXEL TEXEL
departure on set days. The parks are often situated in areas of CREATIEF BEACH
CALIFORNI
natural beauty and offer plenty to do in the surrounding area. PARK TEXEL
A selection of the best parks in the country is given here.
NORTH
HOLLAND
0 kilometres 40
0 miles 40
AMSTERDAM
ZANDVOORT
Efteling Village Bosrijk Haarlem

This leafy holiday park is set in woodland
SOLLASI
next to the countrys biggest theme park.
Cottages sleep six to eight, while
apartments (in a faux manor house 'T EEKHOORNNEST
or gatehouse) have room for four. Den Haag UTRECHT
KIJKDUINPARK
Utrecht
SOUTH
HOLLAND
Rotterdam
TOPPERSHOEDJE
PORT ZLANDE
DUINOORD PARK PORT GREVE
PARC EFTELING
BURGH-HAAMSTEDE DROOMRIJK
NOORD- B
DE SCHOTSMAN
DE ROSEP
Middelburg DE FLAASBLOEM BRABANTS
Port Zlande HOF VAN ZEELAND BOERDERIJDORP
ZWARTVEN
This Mediterranean-style
CenterParcs Park at Lake ZEEBAD
Grevelingen features numerous PANNENSCHUUR ZEELAND B HET VENNENBOS
recreation facilities and E L

comfortable bungalows. G I
U M
De Flaasbloem
The initially (and still
mildly) Christian RCN
recreation parks offer
relatively inexpensive
bungalows and plenty
to do for children.
Key and Contact Details

SCHIERMONNIKOOG Europarcs (088-0708090)
DUINPARK
DE BLIEKE AMELAND Zilverberk (zilverberkvakanties.nl)
CREATIEF NATUURDORP CenterParcs (0900-6606600)
BOOMHIEMKE SUYDEROOGH
Landal GreenParks (070-3003506)
GRONINGEN
Holidaypark Molke (0584-512743)
Groningen
Leeuwarden RCN-recreatiecentra (0343-513547)
IT WIID
Hogenboom Vakantieparken
(0900-2002002)
FRIESLAND
WITTERZOMER
Other parks
DE POTTEN PARC STADSKANAAL
DE ROGGEBERG Assen
PARC BORGER
BOSMEER
AELDERHOLT
DE NOORDSTER
DRENTHE HET ZUIDERVELD

VAKANTIEPARK
DE WILTZANGH
DE HUTTENHEUGTE
HET STOETENSLAGH
OVERIJSSEL
Lelystad Zwolle CREATIEF VILLAPARK
DE VLEGGE
FLEVOLAND
GERNER
HOOGWOLDE HOGE HEXEL
DE JAGERSTEE
B.C. HELLENDOORN
PARC EPE ZILVERBERK HELLENDOORN
DE EEMHOF
SALLANDSHOEVE
LANDGOED
ZEEWOLDE 'T LOO VAKANTIEPARK
HEIHAAS DE PRINS
TWENHAARSVELD
RABBIT HILL RUIGHENRODE
ELDORADO PARC
MIGGELENBERG BEEKBERGEN 'T STIEN 'N BOER
HEIDEHEUVEL
HET GROTE BOS COLDENHOVE

GELDERLAND
GINKELDUIN Arnhem 'T ZONNETJE
SCHUTTERSOORD Aqua Mundo

s-Hertogenbosch The spectacular subtropical paradise
HET HEIJDERBOS
at De Eemhof (and other CenterParcs)
RABANT offers a wonderful and wet time for all.
Y
N
A
ARCEN
LOOHORST
M
HET MEERDAL
R
PARC
VLIERDEN
E
DE KEMPERVENNEN G
DE LOMMERBERGEN
WEERTERBERGEN
LIMBURG
HOMMELHEIDE
Maastricht SIMPELVELD
DE MECHELERHOF
HOOG VAALS
Landal Hoog Vaals
In the rolling landscape of Limburg, Landal combines
beautiful countryside with a plethora of activities.
Camping
Many people regard camping as the ideal way to take a holiday.
It is inexpensive, you are out in the open air, often in beautiful
natural locations. Camping comes in many shapes and sizes:
settling in one place for the whole holiday or hopping from one
campsite to the next; you can camp in a tent, a caravan, a tent-
trailer or a camper van; you can camp in nature, on a farm or in
a holiday park. The Netherlands, with its many different types of
campsites, has something for everyone.
accommodation.
The advantage of
renting, of course, is
that you travel lighter.
Nature Camping De Roos campsite at Beerze, located on the

Dutch law prohibits River Vecht
rough camping
ie off designated 130-plus official natural
campsites. However, camping sites.
there are plenty of The campsites of the
Camping at one of Hollands many nature sites campsites that give Vereniging Gastvrije
you a true sense Landgoederen combine
Types of Campsite of camping in nature. These the attraction of natural
Campsites in the Netherlands natural campsites, natuur surroundings with that of
fall into two main categories. kampeerterreinen, are small- cultural history. These sites
There are natuurterreinen, scale and often situated in are situated on private estates,
(nature sites), which are small or scenic locations, with plenty usually on the grounds of a
medium-sized campsites with of countryside around for castle or stately home. The
basic facilities, often situated in exploring on foot or by associations 20-odd sites are
the most spectacular country- bicycle. You can pitch a tent distinguished by their peace,
side that the Netherlands has to or park your caravan, tent- atmosphere and spaciousness,
offer. The other group consists trailer or camper here. There and offer abundant oppor-
of larger campsites with a good are no fixed pitches, sanitary tunities for rambling, cycling
range of facilities, often near arrangements are fairly basic or horse riding.
recreation areas or other attrac- but good, and there is usually Camping on a farm means you
tions. Both types of campsite a childrens play area. Staying will be assured of a tranquil rural
are to be found throughout the here requires a membership atmosphere. There are hundreds
Netherlands, and on both you card from Stichting Natuur of VeKaBo farm campsites,
can either set up your own tent kampeerterreinen, which usually small and with limited
and caravan or you can rent includes a booklet listing all facilities, but offering a variety of
Camping in Zeeland, popular among Dutch and foreign holidaymakers alike

experiences; you will often be

able to help the farmers feed
the animals, milk the cows or
harvest the crops.
Another excellent way of
experiencing the countryside
is by using hikers cabins,
trekkershutten, designed for
use by walkers on multiple-
day hiking-trips. They offer
basic accommodation for up
to four people and are often
situated at campsites whose
facilities are available to the
hikers. Bring your own kitchen
utensils and bedding.
Hanging the laundry to dry among the fragrant blossoming trees

Large Family Campsites
Large family campsites or The largest campsites recreation facilities such as
gezinscampings are popular have extensive sanitary tennis courts, mini-golf and
among Dutch holidaymakers facilities and hot water. They so on.
taking a break in their own also provide electrical hook- The Dutch Automobile Club,
country. Social life is an ups for caravans, as well as ANWB, has awarded the best
important aspect of these running water and sewage campsites in Europe with their
campsites, with plenty of connections. Campsite shops quality label Best Camping.
opportunities to meet your mean that you can do most These offer an exceptionally
fellow campers through an of your shopping on-site, and great terrain with large pitches,
abundance of activities, such if you dont feel like cooking extensive facilities and terrific
as barbecues, karaoke, games, your own food, there is often service. Over thirty such
competitions and sports a restaurant or snack bar. campsites are located in the
events. Children also get to Launderettes and dry-cleaning Netherlands, and are listed in
meet others of their age and services are also often their camping guides and online,
there is plenty of room for available. Many have a albeit in Dutch only: www.
running around and playing. swimming pool and other anwb.nl/vakantie/camping.
DIRECTORY
Nature Camping SVR (Stichting Vrije Guides alanrogers.com
Recreatie) europe-camping-
Vereniging Gastvrije ANWB online
svr.nl guide.com/en/list/
Landgoederen booking
netherlands
Tel 0318-578555. Trekkershutten anwbcamping.nl/
eurocampings.eu/
Tel 030-6033701. nederland.html
gastvrije en/europe/netherlands
trekkershutten.nl (Dutch only)
landgoederen.nl
VeKaBo (Vereniging ANWB Voordeel
Karaktervolle Groene
van Kampeerboeren) Campinggids 1 & 2
Campings Both list hundreds
Tel 0900-3336668.
kgc.nl of campsites in the
vekabo.nl
Netherlands, and
Nivon
Family Campsites thousands in the rest
Natuurvrienden
of Europe (Dutch only).
nivon.nl Roompot Parken
Online camping
Stichting Natuur Tel 0113-374297.
guides
kampeerterreinen roompot.nl
Lists over 750 campsites
Tel 030-6033701. Vacansoleil inspected by the ANWB.
natuur Tel 0900-9899. en.camping.info/
kampeerterreinen.nl vacansoleil.nl netherlands
Where to Stay
Western Canal Ring Price Guide
Amsterdam The Times Hotel Prices are based on one nights stay
Waterside Map 1 C4 in high season in a standard double
Oude Zijde Herengracht 135137, 1015 BG room, inclusive of VAT, tourist tax and
service charge.
The Grand Tel (020) 330 6030
up to 100
Luxury Map 5 A1 thetimeshotel.nl
100 to 180
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, 1012 EX Set in combined canal houses over 180
Tel (020) 555 3111 dating from 1650, this hotel
sofitel.com blends modern comfort with
A World Travel award nominee, old Dutch tradition. three gardens, a restaurant, bar
The Grand has a lush courtyard and wine salon. Guests can take
enclosed by a 17th-century town The Dylan saloon boat tours of the canals.
hall. Rooms have modern decor. Luxury Map 1 B5
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB
Tel (020) 530 2010 Eastern Canal Ring
DK Choice dylanamsterdam.com
Htel Droog Refined and tasteful, each room
Hotels with Character Map 5 A2 and suite at The Dylan is unique. DK Choice
Staalstraat 7B, 1011 JJ Michelin-starred restaurant. Banks Mansion
Tel (020) 523 5059 Waterside Map 5 A2
hoteldroog.com The Toren Herengracht 519525, 1017 BV
Htel Droogs designers offer Luxury Map 1 C4 Tel (020) 420 0055
a hospitality experience with a Keizersgracht 164, 1015 CZ carlton.nl/banksmansion
twist. Theres only one room here Tel (020) 622 6352 This monumental former bank-
but with a few extras an art thetoren.nl cum-canal mansion is a Travellers
gallery, beauty salon, fashion This Travellers Choice award Choice award winner. Rooms
boutique, indoor garden, tea winner features garden-side are lovely, with Frank Lloyd
room/caf and design store. suites with two-person Jacuzzis. Wright-inspired decor.
Everything is included in the
price: breakfast, movies, self-
misc eatdrinksleep Central Canal Ring service bar, even iPad loans.
Waterside Map 5 A1 Acostar Hotel
Kloveniersburgwal 20, 1012 CV Charming Map 4 E1
Tel (020) 330 6241 Kerkstraat 4549, 1017 GB
misceatdrinksleep.com Tel (020) 330 0242 Museum Quarter
Six miscellaneously-themed rooms acostarhotel.com Stayokay City
(e.g. Rembrandt, Baroque) offer Located near Leidseplein, this Hostel Vondelpark
amenities such as rain showers, hotel offers 30 rooms on five floors. Family-friendly Map 4 D2
espresso machines or free minibar. Bike hire and laundry service. Zandpad 5, 1054 GA
Tel (020) 589 8996
Hotel Pulitzer stayokay.com/vondelpark
Nieuwe Zijde Luxury Map 1 B5 This sprawling hostel offers great-
Hotel Des Arts Prinsengracht 315, 1016 GZ value rooms ranging from 20-
Family-friendly Map 4 F1 Tel (020) 523 5235 bed dorms to double rooms.
Rokin 154156, 1012 LE pulitzeramsterdam.com
Tel (020) 620 1558 Stay in 17th- and 18th-century Conscious Hotel
hoteldesarts.nl restored canal houses. There are Museum Square
Intimate single, family and group Design Map 4 D4
rooms are on offer here; some De Lairessestraat 7, 1071 NR
with lovely canal views. Tel (020) 671 9596
conscioushotels.com
Hotel Sint Nicolaas An eco-friendly Green Key gold
Hotels with Character Map 2 D4 certificate holder, this modern
Spuistraat 1A, 1012 SP hotel features a gorgeous garden.
Tel (020) 626 1384
hotelnicolaas.nl
Housed in a former harbour DK Choice
office and mattress factory, this Conservatorium
quirky hotel has oddly-shaped en- Luxury Map 4 D3
suite rooms. Breakfast included. Van Baerlestraat 27, 1071 AN
Tel (020) 570 0000
DoubleTree conservatoriumhotel.com
Business Map 2 F4 Housed in a former music
Oosterdoksstraat 4, 1011 DK conservatory, the space has
Tel (020) 530 0800 been imaginatively reused. It has
doubletree3.hilton.com high ceilings and a beautiful
This large hotel with harbour views atrium designed by Piero Lissoni.
features 16 conference halls, free Almost half the rooms are
Wi-Fi, remote printing facilities, Brick exterior of Htel Droog duplexes, with amazing views.
fitness rooms and a DVD library. in Amsterdam
Plantage HAARLEM: Stempels

Historic Map B3
Hermitage Klokhuisplein 9, 2011 HK
Waterside Map 5 B3 Tel (023) 512 3910
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16, 1018 DR stempelsinhaarlem.nl
Tel (020) 623 8259 Once the venue for the royal
hotelhermitageamsterdam.com banknotes printing company,
A converted 1733 canal house the building is now home to
with a garden, Hermitage is a Stempels, a boutique hotel with
good option for groups or families. modern amenities.
HEEMSKERK: Stayokay
DK Choice Historic Map B3
Amsterdam House Tolweg 9, 1967 NG
Family-friendly Map 5 A2 Tel (0251) 232 288
s-Gravelandse Veer 34, 1011 KM stayokay.com
Tel (020) 626 2577 Enjoy the experience of staying Simple, subtle decor at Stempels hotel
amsterdamhouse.com in a medieval castle with turrets, in Haarlem
Enjoy a true Amsterdam on-the- towers, moat and gardens at this
water experience. Stay on a hostel. Shared and private rooms. UTRECHT: Mary K
houseboat with a well-equipped Bike rental service. Charming Map C4
kitchen and bathrooms. Rooms Oudegracht 25, 3511 AB
and apartment are warm, bright, Tel (030) 230 4888
modern, and great for groups. DK Choice marykhotel.com
ZAANDAM: Inntel Located at the quiet end of the
Design Map B3 Oudegracht, the quirky Mary K
InterContinental Amstel Provincialeweg 102, 1506 MD offers rooms of all sizes, each
Amsterdam Tel (075) 631 1711 designed by a local artist.
Luxury Map 5 B4 inntelhotels.nl
Professor Tulpplein 1, 1018 GX The unique building of this
Tel (020) 622 6060 four-star hotel resembles the DK Choice
amsterdam.intercontinental.com famous wooden houses of UTRECHT: Dom
This rock star favourite offers the nearby Zaanse Schans. Design Map C4
great views over the Amstel The contemporary rooms are Domstraat 4, 3512 JB
river. First class service. Michelin- inspired by the towns history Tel (030) 232 4242
starred restaurant. or pay homage to its residents. hoteldom.nl
Contemporary restyling has
transformed this 18th-century
Further Afield ZUIDOOSTBEEMSTER: Fort building into a luxury hotel.
Lloyd Hotel Resort Beemster Stay in one of their state-of-
Hotels with Character Hotels with Character Map C3 the-art rooms with Auping
Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 1019 BN Nekkerweg 24, 1461 LC beds, Nespresso machines
Tel (020) 561 3636 Tel (0299) 682 200 and yoga mats. The hotel also
lloydhotel.com fortresortbeemster.nl has a coveted restaurant and
Rooms vary from simple to luxur- This hotel is housed in a historic a cocktail bar out of a Bond
ious at this industrial-chic hotel building that was once a part of movie. Quite an experience.
located in a former borstal. Unique the Defence Line of Amsterdam,
focus on culture and events. a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Great spa and wellness facilities. ZEIST: Kasteel Kerckebosch
Historic Map C4
Arnhemse Bovenweg 31, 3708 AA
North Holland Tel (030) 692 6666
Utrecht kasteelkerckebosch.nl
BERGEN AAN ZEE: Blooming This castle in the woods has
Design Map B3 AMERONGEN: Buitenlust modern rooms and an excellent
Duinweg 5, 1861 GL Charming Map C4 restaurant. Amenities include bike
Tel (072) 582 0520 Burg Jhr H v d Boschstraat 13, 3958 CA rental and packed lunch boxes.
blooming-hotels.com Tel (0343) 451 692
This hip hotel is set in 11 ha buitenlust-amerongen.nl
(27 acres) of private woodland and Located near Utrechtse Heuvelrug
dunes. Rooms range from tiny National Park, Buitenlust is a great South Holland
singles to bright and airy suites. option to explore the surrounding
area. Cheerful, spacious rooms. DELFT: De Bieslandse
BROEK IN WATERLAND: Inn on Heerlijkheid
the Lake AMERSFOORT: Logies Charming Map B4
Charming Map C3 de Tabaksplant Klein Delfgauw 61, 2616 LC
Kerkplein 11, 1151 AH Historic Map C4 Tel (015) 310 7126
Tel (020) 331 8573 Coninckstraat 15, 3811 WD bieslandseheerlijkheid.nl
innonthelake.nl Tel (033) 472 9797 Surrounded by acres of polderland,
Housed in a former vicarage dating tabaksplant.nl this rustic B&B is set in a converted
back to the 17th century, this B&B Rooms are spread over several farmhouse. The main building
offers four uniquely-styled rooms medieval buildings, with a lovely has four comfortable rooms, plus
with five-star amenities. restaurant and courtyard. a cosy garden house.
For more information on types of hotels see page 391
SINT MAARTENSDIJK: Kom!

Charming Map B5
Markt 58, 4695 CH
Tel (0166) 663 000
hotelkom.nl
Behind a 16th-century faade is
a boutique hotel with modern
rooms. Good, affordable restaurant.
SLUIS: Gasthof dOuwe

Schuure
Charming Map A5
St Annastraat 191, 4524 JH
Tel (0117) 462 232
ouweschuure.nl
This B&B on the Belgian border
has seven rooms and a farm-
Tables awaiting diners at the lovely market caf at Villa Augustus, Dordrecht house converted into a restaurant.
DORDRECHT: Villa Augustus

Design Map B4 Zeeland
Oranjelaan 7, 3311 DH West Frisian Islands
Tel (078) 639 3111 CADZANDBAD: De
villa-augustus.nl Blanke Top
A boutique hotel housed in a Family-friendly Map A5
castle-like water tower, this place Boulevard de Wielingen 1, 4506 JH DK Choice
offers great views, a huge garden, Tel (0117) 392 040 AMELAND: Nobel
a market caf and a restaurant. blanketop.nl Design Map C1
Pretty views at this resort are as Gerrit Kosterweg 16, Ballum
inviting as the delectable food at 9162 EN
DK Choice its fine-dining restaurant. Theres Tel (0519) 554 157
ROTTERDAM: Stayokay an ongoing renovation, but the hotelnobel.nl
Hotels with Character Map B4 main building remains open. Stay in stylish, futuristic-looking
Overblaak 8587, 3011 MH rooms at this smart contem-
Tel (010) 436 5763 DOMBURG: Hotel ter Duyn porary hotel. It also has a fine-
stayokay.com Charming Map A5 dining restaurant a modern
Located in the Cube Houses built PJ Eloutstraat 1, 4357 AH take on the old brown caf, a
by Piet Blom in the 1980s, this Tel (0118) 584 400 liquor store with an impressive
hotel looks distinctly quirky. The hotelterduyn.nl wine list and its own distillery.
comfortable rooms, however, Just a stones throw away from
ensure a pleasant stay. There are the beach, this pleasant hotel
cafs and restaurants nearby, has suites only, each with a SCHIERMONNIKOOG: Van
along with good transport links. small kitchen. der Werff
Historic Map D1
KRUININGEN: Manoir Reeweg 2, 9166 PX
ROTTERDAM: SS Rotterdam Inter Scaldes Tel (0519) 531 203
Design Map B4 Luxury Map B5 hotelvanderwerff.nl
3e Katendrechtsehoofd 25, 3072 AM Zandweg 2, 4416 NA This legendary inn, reached by
Tel (010) 297 3090 Tel (0113) 381 753 ferry and vintage omnibus, has
ssrotterdam.nl interscaldes.eu neat, modern rooms on offer.
Holland America Lines former This Relais & Chteaux member
flagship, SS Rotterdam is now has 12 stylish rooms in a TERSCHELLING: Stayokay
a floating hotel in 1950s style. thatched villa, and a Michelin- Charming Map C1
starred restaurant. t Land 2, West Terschelling, 8881 GA
SCHEVENINGEN: Strandhotel Tel (0562) 442 338
Charming Map B4 stayokay.com
Zeekant 111, 2586 JJ DK Choice Enjoy pleasant views of the
Tel (070) 354 0193 MIDDELBURG: Aan Wadden Sea from this hostel
strandhotel-scheveningen.nl de Dam situated on a dune top. Shared
This small, family-run hotel on Historic Map A5 and private rooms. Good for biking.
the beach features basic budget Dam 31, 4331 GE
rooms and pleasant sea-view Tel (0118) 643 773 TERSCHELLING: Sandton
rooms. Picnic baskets available. hotelaandedam.nl Paal 8 aan Zee
Originally built in the 17th Luxury Map C1
THE HAGUE: Mozaic century, this historic mansion Badweg West 4, West Terschelling,
Design Map B4 now houses a charming hotel 8881 HG
Laan Copes van Cattenburch 3840, with guest rooms that recall Tel (0562) 449 090
2585 GB the Golden Age. Contemporary sandton.eu/nl/terschelling
Tel (070) 352 2335 furnishings complement Well-furnished rooms with great
mozaic.nl the vintage ambience of the views await visitors at this four-
Stay in trendy, well-appointed tastefully decorated rooms. star resort on a dune top. Pool,
rooms in this boutique hotel set Enthusiastic staff. sauna and bike rentals are
in an elegant neighbourhood. among the amenities offered.
Key to Price Guide see page 396
TEXEL: Zeerust GRONINGEN: Asgard KOUDUM: Galamadammen

Charming Map B2 Design Map D1 Charming Map C2
Boodtlaan 5, De Koog, 1796 BD Ganzevoortsingel 21, 9711 AL Galamadammen 14, 8723 CE
Tel (0222) 317 261 Tel (050) 368 4810 Tel (0514) 521 346
hotelzeerust.nl asgardhotel.nl galamadammen.nl
This up-to-date, small hotel Minimalist rooms with floor Set beside the marina, this hotel
is ideally located between heating and rain showers are calls for exploring the Frisian
village, woods and beach. Fresh on offer at this revamped 1930s lakes by rental boat.
breakfasts available. deaconess hospital.
LEEUWARDEN: Grand Hotel
TEXEL: Bij Jef GRONINGEN: Prinsenhof Post Plaza
Design Map B2 Historic Map D1 Luxury Map D1
Herenstraat 34, Den Hoorn, 1797 AJ Martinikerkhof 23, 9712 JH Tweebaksmarkt 2527, 8911 KW
Tel (0222) 319 623 Tel (050) 317 6550 Tel (058) 215 9317
bijjef.nl prinsenhof-groningen.nl post-plaza.nl
Set in a former vicarage, this A 15th-century palace makes for Plush accomodation in an 18th-
luxurious B&B comes with five- stunning grandeur in conversion. century former bank building,
star amenities and fine views. Beautiful gardens. Elegant restau- this centrally located hotel has
Michelin-starred restaurant. rant and an equally refined caf. modern rooms and a spa.
VLIELAND: WestCord LUTJEGAST: Erfgoed STAVOREN: De Vrouwe van

Residentie Vlierijck Rikkerda Stavoren
Luxury Map C1 Charming Map D1 Design Map C2
Willem de Vlaminghweg 2, 8899 AV Abel Tasmanweg 28, 9866 TD Havenweg 1, 8715 EM
Tel (0562) 453 840 Tel (0594) 612 928 Tel (0514) 681 202
residentie-vlierijck-vlieland.nl rikkerda.nl hotel-vrouwevanstavoren.nl
Balconied self-catering apartments This stylish B&B features Sleep in a Swiss wine cask
with a bar, restaurant, pool and spacious accomodation and complete with sitting area, private
sauna are on offer at this smart a charming garden. Stabling bath and twin beds. Quite an
apartment-hotel. Close to the ferry. facilities available. extraordinary accommodation.
WARFHUIZEN: De TERNAARD: Herberg de Waard

Theaterherberg van Ternaard
Groningen Design Map D1 Charming Map D1
Baron van Asbeckweg 42, 9963 PC De Groedse 3, 9145 RG
DEN HAM: Piloersemaborg Tel (0595) 572 742 Tel (0519) 571 846
Historic Map D3 theaterherberg.nl herbergdewaard.nl
Sietse Veldstraweg 25, 9833 TA The Theatre Inn houses a tiny This inn in an 1860s mansion,
Tel (050) 403 1362 theatre and, in the former now transformed into a boutique
piloersema.nl 19th-century wine barn, four hotel, offers rooms decorated in
Stay in a well-preserved 17th- literary-themed rooms. wood and marble.
century grange that features
five luxurious rooms and a
first-rate restaurant.
Friesland Drenthe
EENRUM: Grand Hotel de
Kromme Raake HARICH: Welgelegen COEVORDEN: Kasteel
Historic Map D1 Charming Map C2 Coevorden
Molenstraat 5, 9967 SL Welgelegen 15, 8571 RG Design Map E2
Tel (0595) 491 600 Tel (0514) 605 050 Het Kasteel 29, 7741 GC
hoteldekrommeraake.nl hotelwelgelegen.nl Tel (0524) 522 009
This is officially the worlds Inside a 19th-century farmhouse, kasteelcoevorden.nl
smallest hotel, with only one Welgelegen offers a romantic Right at the town centre, this
room, but that one has hosted bridal suite upstairs. hotel is housed in a beautifully
many celebrities. preserved century-old warehouse.
DK Choice
DK Choice HARLINGEN: Harbour
GRONINGEN: Stee in Stad Crane
Charming Map D1 Hotels with Character Map C2
Floresstraat 75, 9715 HR Dokkade 5, 8862 NZ
Tel (050) 577 9896 Tel (0517) 414 410
steeinstad.nl havenkraan.nl
Three homes located in a An old harbour crane has
residential neighbourhood been painstakingly converted
have been lovingly converted into a contemporary hotel
into a characterful B&B, which room: the bed is 17 m (56 ft)
serves as a work project for above ground and the crane
disadvantaged people. All nine revolves 360 degrees for
rooms (singles and doubles) a constantly changing,
have been individually deco- panoramic view of Friesland
rated based on themes. and the Wadden Sea. Grand entrance to the Prinsenhof hotel
in Groningen
DE SCHIPHORST: Chteau De
Havixhorst Flevoland
Luxury Map D3
De Schiphorsterweg 3436, 7966 AC EMMELOORD: Hotel
Tel (0522) 441 487 Emmeloord
dehavixhorst.nl Business Map D2
Stay in lavish suites in a romantic Het Hooiveld 9, 8302 AE
17th-century manor house on Tel (0527) 612 345
an estate with Baroque gardens. hotelemmeloord.nl
This great-value hotel is located
NORG: De Eshof beside a marina, 20 minutes from
Charming Map D2 the national park.
Esweg 25, 9331 AP
Tel 06 2169 0092 LELYSTAD: Waterlodge de
eshofnorg.nl Aalscholver
Three rooms, a sauna and a pool Design Map C3
are on offer at this B&B in a con- Beautifully decorated guest room at Modez Riksweg A6, Parkeerplaats de
verted 18th-century Saxon farm. in Arnhem Aalschover, 8218 PW
Tel (036) 523 9273
HOLTEN: Hoog Holten haje.nu
DK Choice Charming Map D3 Accommodation at this offbeat
VEENHUIZEN: Bitter & Zoet Forthaarsweg 7, 7451 JS roadside restaurant is in rooms in
Historic Map D2 Tel (0548) 361 306 a floating hotel ark on the water.
Hospitaallaan 16, 9341 AH hoogholten.nl
Tel (0592) 385 002 Wonderful hideaway in a former LELYSTAD: De Groene
bitterenzoetveenhuizen.nl hunting lodge, Hoog Holten Watertuinen
Dedication, Obligation and features well-furnished rooms, Luxury Map C3
Bitter & Sweet the three build- a pleasant terrace, wine bar and Groene Velden 154, 8211 BD
ings of a monumental 19th- a restaurant. Tel (0320) 263 310
century hospital complex now groenewatertuinen.nl
make for a boutique hotel with LATTROP: Landgoed de Set in a leafy suburb, this hotel
stylish rooms and apartments, Holtweijde features two suites, plus a pool,
a sauna, restaurant and bakery. Luxury Map E3 jacuzzi and sauna.
Spiekweg 7, 7635 LP
Tel (0541) 229 234
ZEEGSE: De Zeegser Duinen holtweijde.nl DK Choice
Charming Map D2 The tranquil setting adds to the URK: Pension het Anker Wijk
Schipborgerweg 8, 9483 TL charm of this five-star resort. There Charming Map C3
Tel (0592) 530 099 are suites and private cottages, as 413/Prins Hendrikstraat 13,
hoteldezeegserduinen.nl well as a spa, tennis courts and 8321 GC
This four-star hotel is set in a driving range. Tel (0527) 685 307
wooded nature reserve. Check in, overnachteninurk.nl
go cycling and return to unwind. TUBBERGEN: Drostes One of Urks best B&Bs, this snug,
Design Map E3 little place is housed in a former
Uelserweg 95, 7651 KV fishermans cottage in the older
Tel (0546) 621 264 part of the village. Its here that
Overijssel drostes.nl guests can get an experience
A cosy, contemporary inn with of how the fishing village
BLOKZIJL: Kaatjes Rsidence a restaurant, Drostes is set amid traditionally looked.
Design Map D2 rolling meadows. Rooms are
Brouwerstraat 20, 8356 DV comfortable; some feature a
Tel (0527) 291 833 balcony or terrace.
kaatje.nl
Located on a pretty square, this ZWOLLE: Hampshire Gelderland
luxurious B&B has modern rooms Hotel Lumen
and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Design Map D3 ARNHEM: Modez
Stadionplein 20, 8025 CP Design Map D4
Tel (088) 147 1471 Elly Lamakerplantsoen 4, 6822 BZ
DK Choice hotellumen.nl Tel (026) 442 0993
HENGELO: Tuindorphotel t Four-star hotel with an odd hotelmodez.nl
Lansink soccer stadium location, but This striking hotel is decorated by
Hotels with Character Map E3 super stylish lobby, lounge 30 designers under the guidance
C T Storkstraat 18, 7553 AR and restaurant. of fashion illustrator Piet Paris.
Tel (074) 291 0066
hotellansink.com ZWOLLE: De Koperen Hoogte BRUMMEN: Het Oude
Built a century ago as part of a Design Map D3 Postkantoor
garden village for Stork factory Lichtmisweg 51, 8035 PL Charming Map D4
workers, this small-scale grand Tel (0529) 428 428 Zutphensestraat 6, 6971 EM
hotel once hosted famous (and dekoperenhoogte.nl Tel (0575) 566 781
royal) guests. Today, it has heaps Rooms are kitschy, but luxurious hetoudepostkantoor.nl
of character, a fine-dining restau- at this hotel housed in a former The village post office has been
rant and contemporary rooms. water tower. Theres a revolving converted into a small hotel with
restaurant offering great views. authentic details.
DOETINCHEM: Villa Ruimzicht KAATSHEUVEL: Efteling Hotel between four characterful rooms
Charming Map D4 Design Map D5 and two spacious suites. Theres
Ruimzichtlaan 150, 7001 KG Horst 31, 5171 RA also a parlour and a terrace.
Tel (0314) 320 680 Tel (0416) 537 777
hotelvillaruimzicht.nl efteling.com
Adventurous cooking, designer Four-star hotel in a cloud castle
furniture and art come together near a well-known amusement Limburg
at this 19th-century manor. park. Fairytale-themed rooms.
KERKRADE: Abdij Rolduc
HARDERWIJK: Harderwijk Historic Map D6
op de Veluwe DK Choice Heyendallaan 82, 6464 EP
Luxury Map C3 NIEUWENDIJK: Fort Tel (045) 546 6888
Leuvenumseweg 7, 3847 LA Bakkerskil rolduc.com
Tel (0341) 801 010 Historic Map C4 A 900-year-old abbey that now
hotelharderwijk.com Kildijk 143, 4255 TH houses a conference centre,
All smartly furnished rooms have Tel 06 4593 4892 restaurant and hotel.
Jacuzzis and rain showers at this bakkerskil.nl
four-star hotel. Part of the 19th-century New MAASTRICHT: Zenden
Dutch Water Line, this sturdy Design Map C6
NIJMEGEN: Manna fort has now been converted Sint Bernardusstraat 5, 6211 HK
Design Map D4 into a B&B: choose between Tel (043) 321 2211
Oranjesingel 2C, 6511 NS a bed in the sickbay, powder zenden.nl
Tel (024) 365 0990 magazine or explosives storage. Minimalist rooms with Auping
manna-nijmegen.nl beds, Vitra furniture, Alessi baths.
Individually decorated suites and
studios are on offer at this stylish OISTERWIJK: Stille Wilde MAASTRICHT:
boutique hotel. Family-friendly Map C5 Kruisherenhotel
Scheibaan 11, 5062 TM Luxury Map C6
OTTERLO: Sterrenberg Tel (013) 528 2301 Kruisherengang 1923, 6211 NW
Design Map D4 stillewilde.nl Tel (043) 329 2020
Houtkampweg 1, 6731 AV Comfortable rooms with terrace chateauhotels.nl
Tel (0318) 591 228 or balcony are on offer here. Design hotel with individually
sterrenberg.nl Ample recreational opportunities. decorated rooms.
This wonderful hideaway is close
to the Hoge Veluwe national park. OSSENDRECHT: De Volksabdij
Great restaurant, indoor pool, spa. Historic Map B5 DK Choice
Onze Lieve Vrouwe ter Duinenlaan ROERMOND: Het
199, 4641 RM Arresthuis
DK Choice Tel (0164) 672 546 Hotels with Character Map D5
TEUGE: Airplane Suite devolksabdij.nl Pollartstraat 7, 6041 GC
Hotels with Character Map D3 The well-appointed rooms of this Tel (0475) 870 870
De Zanden 61B, 7395 PA heritage hotel occupy a former hetarresthuis.nl
Tel 06 1938 8603 monastery, set in a nature reserve. The cells of this 19th-century
vliegtuighotel.nl prison have been converted
An Ilyushin 18 aircraft that flew S-HERTOGENBOSCH: into comfort cachots. The
Communist Party moguls in the Stadshotel Jeroen wardens office is now a luxury
1960s has been converted into Charming Map C4 suite, the yard has become a
a suite for two with an Auping Jeroen Boschplein 6, 5211 ML patio, and instead of roll calls,
bed, pantry, sauna and jacuzzi. Tel (073) 610 3556 there are six-course dinners.
The cockpit is still fully equipped. stadshoteljeroenbosch.nl
This stylish hotel is named after
painter Hieronymus Bosch. Choose SITTARD: Merici
Historic Map D6
Oude Markt 25, 6131 EN
North Brabant Tel (046) 400 9002
hotelmerici.nl
BREDA: Bliss Merici is a charming four-star
Design Map B5 hotel set inside a 19th-century
Torenstraat 911, 4811 XV Ursuline boarding school.
Tel (076) 533 5980
blisshotel.nl VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
Nine themed suites come with Dieteren
Jacuzzis, fireplaces, workstations Charming Map D6
or terraces. Neerhem 34, 6301 CH
Tel (043) 601 5404
GELDROP: Nijver hoteldieterenvalkenburg.nl
Design Map D5 Located beside the cable car
Heuvel 1A, 5664 HJ in a picture-perfect town,
Tel (040) 286 7000 Dieteren offers comfortable
hotelnijver.nl rooms with balcony or
Nijver is a boutique hotel that pays terrace. Theres also a pool
tribute to the textile industry with Airplane Suite, Teuge, set in a disused and a garden.
its nine stylishly decorated suites. Ilyushin 18 aircraft
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

The Dutch are innovative people, and this or bar, where diners can order meals
quality is reflected in their cooking. Old from a limited menu, featuring at least
colonial ties have long influenced Dutch one inexpensive, daily-changing set
cuisine and its restaurant scene, so Surinamese menu (dagmenu).
and especially Indonesian restaurants are Although many Dutch have forgotten,
aplenty. More recently, as the Dutch have been there is such a thing as traditional Dutch
introduced to the cooking skills of immigrants cooking, which is now being rediscovered.
into the area, Turkish snack bars and Moroccan A growing number of chefs are serving
restaurants are popping up. new takes on traditional Dutch fare, involving
The Dutch restaurant scene leans heavily meat or fish, potatoes and more elaborate
on international influences. Especially in the sauces. Eating out has long been considered
bigger cities, visitors can choose between something people hastily do in between
exotic flavours from countries as diverse as appointments or before going to the
Spain, Greece, Israel, Lebanon, Sweden, theatre, but the Dutch are now taking it
Ethiopia, India, Thailand, Vietnam and Japan. more seriously and the number of Michelin-
A popular Dutch phenomenon is the eetcaf, starred restaurants is on the rise.
such as fennel or asparagus. lunchtime and cheap, often very

This means that you can eat decent, meals in the evenings,
wild duck on endive stamppot usually at much lower prices than
(mashed potato and cabbage), those in traditional restaurants.
a combination unheard of
in France. It is in areas such
as these that Dutch chefs are Vegetarian Restaurants
showing increasing inventiveness. Most restaurants have several
vegetarian dishes on their
menus. This applies both to
Eetcafs Dutch/French restaurants and
Eetcafs (eating cafs) are a to ethnic restaurants. There is
popular phenomenon in the also an increasing number of
Eating out is an increasingly popular Netherlands. The term eetcafs restaurants that cater exclusively
pastime in the Netherlands is most commonly appIied to to vegetarian diners.
traditional brown cafs. Initially,
Types of Restaurant some cafs and bars sold snacks
The Netherlands boasts a wide to go with their drinks, such as Opening Hours
variety of restaurants. Amsterdam an appetizer, a sandwich or a The Netherlands does not have
is one of the best places in Europe meatball. These snacks have since a tradition of lunching, but this
to try the diverse flavours of been refined to a growing extent. is gradually changing, with
Indonesia, and Chinese restaurants Bars and cafs have gradually more restaurants now opening
and pizzerias have also spread evolved into eetcafs where diners at lunchtime, usually from noon
far and wide across the country. can enjoy sandwiches at to 2pm. In the evenings, the
Indeed it is difficult to find a
country whose cuisine is not
represented by some restaurant
in the Netherlands. There is also
an infinite variety in the range
of dishes, ingredients, presen
tation and price.
Traditional Dutch cooking is
best described as simple and
straightforward. As a maritime
nation, the Netherlands does
have many fish restaurants,
particularly along the coast.
A large number of restaurants
serve French cuisine, and their
quality is consistently improving.
Chefs frequently add local
ingredients to French recipes, An eetcaf, one of the many in Holland serving increasingly refined meals
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 403
Travellers with
Disabilities
Many restaurants are accessible
for wheelchairs, but even if they
are, toilet facilities may still pose
a problem, as they are often
reached via stairs and therefore
not easily accessible.
Drinks
All but the most informal
restaurants will have a wine list
offering a range of fine wines
to accompany your meal.
Vibrant interiors at Eetbar Dit (see p415) in s-Hertogenbosch Although French wines are still
the staple, New World wines
majority of restaurants open Etiquette have become increasingly
at 6pm and the kitchens usually The atmosphere at many Dutch popular. Upmarket restaurants
close around 10pm. An increasing restaurants is fairly informal, and will have a sommelier to help
number of restaurants stay open you can generally wear what you with your choice, and many
all day, serving breakfast, lunch you like; smart casual dress is offer a wine package, serving a
and dinner and light meals or suitable almost everywhere. In glass of carefully paired wine
snacks in between. upmarket restaurants, however, with your meal.
In the cities, night restaurants dressing smartly is appropriate. Typically Dutch brown cafs
are on the rise, with kitchens Smoking is banned in all are making way for airy grand
staying open until midnight restaurants. It is considered cafs and sleek cocktail bars,
or later, allowing you to round impolite to use your mobile offering a long list of exotic
off a visit to the theatre or phone while at the table. aperitifs. However, for most
movies with a late dinner. Dutch, beer is still the tipple of
Traditionally, many restaurants choice, with Heineken or any
do not open on Mondays, though Prices other Dutch lager on tap
this is also changing. Restaurants are legally obliged everywhere.
to display their menu outside,
with prices, inclusive of VAT
Reservations Recommended
Anybody wishing to eat in Restaurants
one of the countrys more The restaurants listed on pages
renowned restaurants would 406415 have been selected not
do well to book, and sometimes only for the quality of food served,
booking a few days in advance but also on the basis of value for
or weeks for the most money, atmosphere, location
acclaimed restaurants is and service. Obviously, some
advisable. Eetcafs and other restaurants are better than
informal eateries can get crowded others and a few stand out for
in the evenings, but reservations a particular reason, such as
are usually accepted only for their innovative chef, pleasant
large groups, if at all. A snack bar, ideal for a quick but satisfying waterside terrace or romantic
bite to eat atmosphere. For each region
we have have handpicked
Tipping (BTW) and service. Prices can one such exceptional restaurant,
It is customary to leave a vary markedly, and a restaurant ranging from a yearround
tip of roughly 10 per cent by can be found in each price class: beach club at the quiet end of
rounding up the amount. If you can find many establish Zandvoort beach, via a tiny Italian
you pay by credit card, you can ments where you can eat for trattoria dishing out fantastic king
either add the tip to the bill less than 25; in top restaurants, crab cannelloni, to a Michelin
or leave change on the table. however, you should not be starred restaurant in a fairytale
Leaving no tip at all is usually surprised if your bill exceeds castle, with a terrace that seems
done only when you are 70, excluding wine. The cost to float in the moat. Here you
particularly dissatisfied with of drinks is invariably extra will not only be guaranteed a
the service provided. At and the markup levied by a decent meal, but also gain a
very informal places, such restaurant, especially on house memorable experience. Our
as takeaways or snack bars, wine and table water, can highly recommended restaurants
tipping is not expected. be high. are marked as DK Choice.
The Flavours of the Netherlands

The typical Dutch menu offers good, solid fare. Pork, hams
and all kinds of sausages are popular, while the North Sea
provides plenty of fresh fish, especially cod, herring and
mackerel, as well as its own variety of tiny brown shrimps.
Leafy green vegetables, such as cabbage, endive (chicory)
and curly kale make regular appearances, frequently mashed
with the ubiquitous potato. Sauerkraut arrived from Germany
long ago and is now considered a native dish. The world-
famous Gouda and Edam cheeses are sold at various stages of Edam cheese
maturity, and with flavourings such as cloves, cumin or herbs.
people from former colonies to offering a sometimes

settle. Dutch chefs branched bewildering variety of choice
out and tried new flavours, and good value for money.
and as such, fusion food has
long been a feature of
Amsterdams menus. From its The Melting Pot
street-corner fish-stalls to its Amsterdam has long had a
cafs and top-flight gourmet reputation for religious and
restaurants, eating out in political tolerance. Refugees who
Amsterdam can be full of found a safe haven there brought
surprises. Over 50 national along their own styles of cooking.
cuisines are represented, In the 16th century, Jews fleeing
Bami goreng (fried
Sampling pickled herring at one of Fried tofu with Steamed rice Prawn
noodles with chicken
Amsterdams many fish-stalls sambal oelek crackers
and pork)
(chilli sauce)
Amsterdams Culinary
Influences
Traditional Dutch cuisine may
be simple, wholesome and
hearty, but the variety of food
on offer in Amsterdam is huge
and influenced by culinary
styles from across the globe.
The Netherlands was once a
major colonial power and its Gado gado
trading ships brought back Satay ayam (vegetable salad
exotic ingredients, ideas and Selection of typical rijsttafel dishes (chicken satay) with peanut sauce)
Local Dishes and Specialities

Dining out in the Netherlands is almost
guaranteed to come up with some curious
quirks. Cheese, ham and bread are
standards at breakfast, but you may
also find ontbijtkoek (gingerbread) and
hagelslag (grains of chocolate) to sprinkle
over bread. Ham and cheese are also
lunchtime staples, often served in a
Brown shrimp bread roll with a glass of milk, though
more adventurous sandwiches and salads
are also common nowadays. In Amsterdam, pancake houses provide
both sweet and savoury snacks throughout the day. The evening
is the time when Amsterdams eateries have the most to offer. The Erwtensoep is a thick pea and
soups and mashed vegetables of Dutch farmhouse cooking sit smoked sausage soup, which is
alongside spicy Indonesian delights, as well as innovative cuisine often served with rye bread and
from some of Amsterdams fine chefs. slices of bacon.
Indonesian Legacy
The Dutch began colonizing
Indonesia in the 17th century
and ruled the southeast
Asian archipelago right up
until 1949. Indonesian cuisine
has had a marked influence
on eating habits in the
Netherlands. Ingredients
once regarded as exotic have
crept into Dutch dishes. It is
now commonplace to spice
up apple pies and biscuits
with cinnamon, which is
sometimes even used to
flavour vegetables. Coconut
Baskets of wild mushrooms at an organic market and chillis are very popular
flavourings, too, and sampling
persecution in Portugal and citys favourite late-night snacks. a rijsttafel (see below) is
Antwerp were some of the first Ethiopians, Greeks, Thais, Italians considered one of the
foreigners to make their home in and Japanese are among other highlights of any trip to
the city. Today, Amsterdammers waves of immigrants to make the country.
count as their own such Jewish their culinary mark, and most
specialities as pekelvlees (salt beef), recently traditional British fare THE RIJSTTAFEL
pickled vegetables (often served has become popular.
as salad) and a variety of sticky Dutch colonialists in Indonesia
cakes, now found mostly in the often found that the modest
local portions failed to satisfy
more old-fashioned tea-rooms.
their hunger. To match their
The 20th century saw an
larger appetites, they created the
influx of immigrants from
rijsttafel (literally rice-table). It
Turkey and several North consists of around 20 small spicy
African countries. Large Arab dishes, served up with a shared
and Turkish communities bowl of rice or noodles. Pork or
have become established chicken satay (mini kebabs with
in Amsterdam. As a result, peanut sauce) and kroepoek
restaurants with menus that (prawn crackers) usually arrive
feature Middle-Eastern style first. A selection of curried meat
stuffed vegetables, succulent and vegetable dishes follows,
stews and couscous, are almost with perhaps a plate of fried tofu
everywhere. Falafel (fried and various salads, all more or
chickpea balls) are readily less served together. A sweet
available from road-side take- Gouda on offer in an Amsterdam treat, such as bananas fried in
aways and are now one of the cheese shop batter, rounds it all off.
Shrimp croquettes are shrimps Stamppot is a hearty dish of curly Nasi goreng, an Indonesian-style dish
in a creamy sauce, coated in kale or endive (chicory) and crispy of egg-fried rice with pork and mush-
breadcrumbs and deep-fried. bacon mixed with mashed potato. rooms, is also popular for a rijsttafel.
Where to Eat and Drink

yassa at this Pan-African restaurant Price Guide
Amsterdam serving specialities from across Prices are based on a three-course meal
the continent. Warm decor, with per person, with a half-bottle of house
Oude Zijde African artwork. No credit cards. wine, including tax and service.
De Bakkerswinkel up to 35
Bakery Map 2 D4 Blauw aan de Wal 35 to 50
over 50
Warmoesstraat 69, 1012 HX Fusion Map 5 A1
Tel (020) 489 8000 Oudezijds Achterburgwal 99, 1012 DD
Try traditional English scones Tel (020) 330 2257 Closed Sun cuisine. The extensive menu
with cream (not clotted, sadly) Set in an ancient warehouse, this makes it a great place for quick,
or lemon curd. Serves breakfast, place features rustic decor, brick delicious food. There is an attached
lunch and has a high tea menu. walls and wooden beams. It snackbar. Well worth a visit.
serves modern Mediterranean
Caf de Engelbewaarder delights, with a menu that Tibet
Brown Caf Map 5 1A changes every week. Outstanding Tibetan/Chinese Map 2 E4
Kloveniersburgwal 59, 1011 JZ wine list. Reservations essential. Lange Niezel 24, 1012 GT
Tel (020) 625 3772 Tel (020) 624 1137
The daily-changing menu at this Choose from a variety of Chinese
laid-back, traditional Dutch pub Nieuwe Zijde Szechuan dishes, as well as staple
is mostly European and seasonal. Catala Tibetan fare. Asian lunch (rice,
Vegetarian options are also Spanish Map 1 C5 noodle dishes) is also served
available. Live jazz on Sundays. Spuistraat 299, 1012 VS here. Eclectic Tibetan decor and
Tel (020) 623 1141 relaxed service.
envistwvis Sample authentic Catalonian
Seafood Map 5 C1 tapas in the warm rustic interior
Schippersgracht 6, 1011 TR of this restaurant. Popular fish DK Choice
Tel (020) 623 2894 Closed Sun & dishes include rice with shellfish, Visrestaurant Lucius
Mon grilled swordfish and monkfish. Or, Seafood Map 1 C5
A paradise for fish lovers, the try the famous Pata Negra jamon. Spuistraat 247, 1012 VP
menu here depends on the daily Tel (020) 624 1831
catch and seasons. Organic, Getto Food & Drinks Named after the Northern pike
sustainable ingredients. Intimate Caf/Bar Map 2 E4 (Esox lucius), this restaurant
decor. No credit cards. Warmoesstraat 51, 1012HW offers delicate, delicious seafood.
Tel (020) 421 5151 Closed Mon Dishes are cooked simply, so
This gay-friendly bar-restaurant, the fresh taste shines through.
DK Choice offers home-style cooking. Try the plateau fruits de mer
Greetje Burgers are a speciality here, (large selection of lobster, crab,
Traditional Map 5 C1 and are named after famous etc) or the North Sea sole. Very
Peperstraat 23, 1011 TJ Amsterdam drag queens, like the popular among the locals;
Tel (020) 779 7450 Jennifer Hopelezz. French bistro decor.
Greetje is hailed by the New
York Times as the place the Kam Yin
Dutch go to eat Dutch. It simply International Map 2 E4 ANNA
doesnt get more authentic Warmoesstraat 6, 1012 JD European Map 2 D4
than this. Try the bloedworst Tel (020) 625 3115 Warmoesstraat 11, 1012 JA
(blood sausage) with apple An Amsterdam institution, Kam Tel (020) 428 1111 Closed Sun
compote or the roasted lamb Yin serves Chinese and Surinamese This upmarket restaurant is housed
chops. The menu changes in two renovated buildings. Serves
every two months. The old- European cuisine with a twist
fashioned interior has lots of including dishes like pan-fried
wood and traditional accents. corvine fillet and braised quail.
DVijff Vlieghen
In de Waag Traditional Map 1 C5
Fusion Map 5 B1 Spuistraat 294302, 1012 VX
Nieuwmarkt 4, 1012 CR Tel (020) 530 4060
Tel (020) 422 7772 Dine surrounded by original
This restaurant is located in a 1488 Rembrandt etchings and 17th-
guildhouse, on the top floor of century furnishings. Try lightly
which Rembrandt once took smoked duck breast, or the
anatomy lessons. Informal interior surprising chefs menu.
lit by 300 candles. Eclectic menu,
divine desserts. Book ahead.
Central Canal Ring
Kilimanjaro Goodies
African Map 5 C1 Mediterranean Map 4 E1
Rapenburgerplein 6, 1011 VB Huidenstraat 9, 1016 ER
Tel (020) 622 3485 Closed Mon Tel (020) 625 6122
Sample West-African antelope Elegant, bistro-style decor at Visrestaurant An informal diner, Goodies serves
stew or Senegalese crocodile Lucius, Amsterdam great food made from organic
ingredients. Try bruschettas or

the meal-sized salads. The menu
also includes tapas-style dishes
and delectable home-made cakes.
Pancakes!
Bakery Map 1 B5
38 Berenstraat, 1016 GH
Tel (020) 528 9797
Dutch and international pancakes
are served in grand style. The
flour is specially milled from the
Dutch grain mill, de Korenmolen.
Sustainably sourced ingredients.
Balthazars Keuken
International Map 1 B5
Elandsgracht 108, 1016 VA A beautifully laid table at Balthazars Keuken, Amsterdam
Tel (020) 420 2114 Closed SunTue
An open kitchen gives the feeling Eastern Canal Ring De Waaghals
of dining at someones home. Try Kingfisher Vegetarian Map 4 F3
the weekly changing three-course International Map 4 F4 Frans Halsstraat 29, 1072 BK
menu with up to five appetizers Ferdinand Bolstraat 24, 1072 LK Tel (020) 679 9609
and pre-chosen wine. Tel (020) 671 2395 Beautifully prepared creative
Good food, ranging from snacks cuisine featuring organic produce
Portuglia (shrimp croquettes) to lunch attracts diners here. The menu
Portuguese Map 4 E1 (Ploughmans sandwich or grilled changes twice a month and
Kerkstraat 35, 1017 GB pork belly) to a day menu (fish, always features one international
Tel (020) 625 6490 meat or vegetarian) is on offer special of the month.
This family-run restaurant serves here. Free Wi-Fi. Excellent value.
simple cuisine with an emphasis Sluizer
on fish and meat. Try the single- Buffet van Odette International Map 5 A3
pan dishes (Cataplana), like the Brasserie Map 4 F2 Utrechtsestraat 4145, 1017 VH
monkfish, clams, shrimp and Prinsengracht 598, 1017 KS Tel (020) 622 6376
potatoes in a cream sauce. Tel (020) 423 6034 Closed Tue Two restaurants operate under
Light and sunny with a great one roof: Specialties and Fish.
Salmuera terrace, this place serves breakfast, Extensive la carte and changing
International Map 1 A5 lunch and dinner. Ingredients are choice menus, with international
Rozengracht 106, 1016 NH mostly organic and locally sourced. meat, fish and vegetarian options.
Tel (020) 624 5752 Popular choices: the truffle cheese
Taste Latin-inspired international omelette and steak sandwich.
dishes at this popular restaurant. Museum Quarter
Try the classic ceviche or feast John Dory Het Blauwe Theehuis
on the streetfood platter. Seafood Map 5 A3 Fusion Map 3 C3
Prinsengracht 999, 1017 KM Vondelpark 5, 1071 AA
Struisvogel Tel (020) 622 9044 Closed Sun & Mon Tel (020) 662 0254 Closed winter
International Map 1 B5 Housed in a restored warehouse Housed in a 1937 circular building
Keizersgracht 312, 1016 EX dating back to 1860, this comfort- with a huge terrace, the Blue
Tel (020) 423 3817 able restaurant offers three- Teahouse overlooks the charming
In the cellar of a canal house, to seven-course menus. Good Vondelpark. The breakfast and
Struisvogel serves French organic selection of wines. Attentive staff. lunch menus are European,
cuisine. Try the value-for-money French or Mediterranean based.
set menu, accompanied by Roses Cantina
apple-orange crumble with South American Map 4 F1 Caf Toussaint
vanilla ice cream. Reguliersdwarsstraat 3840, 1017 BM International Map 4 D1
Tel (020) 625 9797 Bosboom Toussaintstraat 26, 1054 AS
The menu at this established, Tel (020) 685 0737
DK Choice sprawling South American rest- This small caf with an open
Restaurant Vinkeles aurant focuses on tacos, enchiladas kitchen is an absolute gem. Focus
French Map 1 B5 and quesadilla. Also try Roses is on healthy, international fare:
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB house burger. Great cocktails, and soups, sandwiches and tapas.
Tel (020) 530 2010 Closed Sun a tequilla library. DJs on weekend. Good range for vegetarians.
At this world famous, Michelin-
starred restaurant, ask to be Steakhouse Piet de Leeuw Due Napoletani
seated amid 18th-century Traditional Map 4 F2 Italian Map 4 E4
bakery ovens, or dine on a Noorderstraat 11, 1017 TR Hobbemakade 6163, 1071 XL
19th-century salon boat. Be Tel (020) 623 7181 Tel (020) 671 1263 Closed Tue
prepared for the finest of fine- Open since 1949, this eatery is Chic Italian cuisine is served in
dining experiences, featuring famous for its steaks (beef and an informal setting. The pasta
the best in French cuisine. horse) and fish (sole, salmon). al parmigiano is a popular dish.
The anjou duif (pigeon) is Frequented by locals who praise Staff here are so accomodating
particularly recommended. the food as well as the brown that if you call ahead, they will
caf decor. also open for lunch.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
The Seafood Bar they also serve Dutch wild boar dishes and set menus are on offer
Seafood Map 4 D3 and Italian, Indonesian and Indian at this neighbourhood Japanese-
Van Baerlestraat 5II, 1071 AL fare. Credit cards are not accepted. style brasserie. The squid and the
Tel (020) 670 8355 St Jacques sashimi are wonderful.
This sleek and trendy seafood Bloem Credit cards not accepted.
bar is open for lunch and dinner. European Map 6 D2
The menu changes every three Entrepotdok 36, 1018 AD
months, although some favourites Tel (020) 330 0929 DK Choice
remain. Popular dishes include Almost all the bread, fruit, La Rive
fruits de mer and fish and chips. vegetables and meat served here Mediterranean Map 5 B4
are organic, and locally sourced Amstel Hotel, Professor Tulpplein 1,
Srikandi wherever possible. Delicious, as 1018 GX
Indonesian Map 4 E2 well as healthy. Tel (020) 520 3264 Closed Mon,
Stadhouderskade 31, 1071 ZD lunch on Sat
Tel (020) 664 0408 De Pizzabakkers Plantage La Rive offers beautiful, elegant
Art and music create an authentic Italian Map 5 C2 cuisine elevated to the level
atmosphere at this traditional Plantage Kerklaan 2, 1018 TA of art. This Michelin-starred
Indonesian restaurant. Known for Tel (020) 625 0740 restaurant is located in the
its version of a rijsttafel (rice table) Come here for authentic Italian ultra-lux Amstel Hotel, and
with 18 dishes. Good vegetarian pizza, made with locally sourced serves dishes inspired by
options. Book ahead. ingredients, and baked in a wood French and Mediterranean
oven. Good range of antipasti, flavours, created using high-
The College Hotel vegetarian choices and desserts. quality seasonal produce.
Modern Dutch Map 4 E5 Cash not accepted. It also has a selection of
Roelof Hartstraat 1, 1071 VE outstanding wines. Reserve
Tel (020) 571 1511 Paerz the Chefs table.
Housed in a former 1895 school European Map 6 D2
building, this elegant venue Entrepotdok 64, 1018 AD
combines a restaurant, hotel and Tel (020) 623 2206 Closed Mon & Tue
lounge bar. Known for its classic Choose from the chefs menu Western Canal Ring
Dutch cuisine with a modern with three or four courses or the De Bolhoed
twist. Lovely courtyard. la carte menu. Both are inspired International Map 1 B3
by classic French cuisine and Prinsengracht 6062, 1015 DX
Le Garage feature seasonal produce. In Tel (020) 626 1803
International Map 4 E4 summer, the seating beside the Enjoy pleasant views from the
Ruysdaelstraat 5456, 1071 XE water is particularly pleasant. canalside terrace at this popular
Tel (020) 679 7176 Closed Sun; vegetarian restaurant. It serves
Sat lunch De Plantage imaginative international dishes
Le Garage is an elegant bistro International Map 5 C2 (Mexican, Mediterranean, Asian,
with plush red seating, set in a Plantage Kerklaan 36, 1018 CZ African) with a daily vegan choice.
renovated garage. French and Tel (020) 760 6800 Mostly organic and seasonal
international fare on offer, with an This industrial-chic restaurant, next ingredients, along with delicious
emphasis on organic ingredients. to the zoo, offers breakfast, lunch desserts. Book ahead.
and dinner. Try the daily changing
Plats Plantage (mixed plate of Greenwoods
Plantage meats or vegetarian options) Tearoom Map 1 C4
Aguada or the juicy Burgos lamb. Singel 103, 1012 VG
International Map 5 C3 Tel (020) 623 7071
Roetersstraat 10-W, 1018 WC Tempura Opt for a full English breakfast
Tel (020) 620 3782 Japanese Map 5 C2 (served all day) or a more delicate
This tiny, family-run caf-restaurant Plantage Kerklaan 26, 1018 TC high tea at this welcoming
offers home-cooked food in Tel (020) 428 7132 Closed Mon English-style tearoom. Another
an informal atmosphere. Cheese Extensive sushi, yakatori, tempura, branch, on the Keizersgracht 465,
fondue is their speciality, but as well as grilled and vegetarian also serves dinner (fish and chips).
Pancake Bakery
Bakery Map 1 C3
Prinsengracht 191, 1015 DS
Tel (020) 625 1333
This family-run eatery serves a
variety of pancakes. Favourites
include Egyptian (lamb, paprika,
garlic sauce), Caprese (mushrooms,
mozzarella, basil pesto, sundried
tomatoes) and the classic Dutch
(syrup, powdered sugar or bacon).
Piqniq
Caf Map 1 C3
Lindengracht 59,1015 KC
Tel (020) 320 3669 Closed Tue
Piqniq offers a selection of
Elegant interiors at the Michelin-starred La Rive in Amsterdam miniature homemade goodies:
mini-sandwiches, soups, bite- is renowned for its creative,

sized quiches and cakes. Order innovative dishes, and terrific
a selection or try the fixed menu. views of Amsterdam. The place
High tea, gluten-free options. to make an impression.
Black and Blue

Steakhouse Map 1 B4 DK Choice
Leliegracht 46, 1015 DH De Kas
Tel (020) 625 0807 Organic
Meat lovers head to this Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3 1097 DE
steakhouse for a fine selection Tel (020) 462 4562 Closed Sun
of organic steaks and Angus beef Dine in a lush oasis surrounded
burgers from a charcoal grill/oven. by plants at this restaurant set
Or try the Cornish hen with in a 1920s greenhouse, or
thyme and lemon. Small terrace. reserve the frantic Chefs Table
in the kitchen. The Michelin-
Chez Georges starred chef and owner offers a
French Map 1 C3 fixed three-course menu
Herenstraat 3, 1015 BX (vegetarian options available) Grand interior of De Jopenkerk, Haarlem,
Tel (020) 626 3332 Closed Sun based on the seasonal produce which was once a church
A must for gourmands, Chez cultivated in the adjacent
Georges dishes up a seasonal nursery or sourced from local and Creole influences at this
Burgundian menu. Sample the growers of organic food, as well intimate restaurant on Bacon
daily changing five-course set as meat and fish producers. Street. Order the Umami menu.
meal and dessert. Ask for
vegetarian options. Fine wine HAARLEM: Ratatouille
selection. Book ahead. International Map B3
Spaarne 96, 2011 CL
Stout! North Holland Tel (023) 542 7270 Closed Sun &
Fusion Map 1 C3 Mon; WedSat lunch
Haarlemmerstraat 73, 1013 EL BLARICUM: Tafelberg Michelin-starred chef Jozua
Tel (020) 616 3664 International Map C3 Jaring proves that its possible to
Indulge in international cuisine Oude Naarderweg 2, 1261 DS prepare delectable and subtly
with inspired flavour combinations. Tel (035) 538 3975 flavoured dishes using ordinary,
Stout Plateau offers ten small Opened in the 1930s as a teahouse affordable ingredients. Choose
treats, or try the fresh Catch on the heath, Tafelberg is now from two to eight courses
of the Day. Pleasant terrace a full-fledged restaurant with a accompanied by wine.
for people-watching while large terrace that serves as an
having lunch. idyllic resting spot after a walk HEEMSTEDE: Southern Cross
in the woods. Expect the odd Australian Map B3
Dutch celebrity. Zandvoortselaan 24, 2106 CP
Further Afield Tel (023) 521 9992 Closed Mon
Azmarino There is no clearly defined
East African Map 5 A5 DK Choice Australian cuisine, so except for
Tweede Sweelinckstraat 6, 1073 EH HAARLEM: De Jopenkerk the grilled crocodile and roasted
Tel (020) 671 7587 Closed Mon Traditional Map B3 kangaroo, this restaurant serves
This restaurant, with traditional Gedempte Voldersgracht 2, world food with a distinct Aussie
African furnishings, serves a classic 2011 WB touch. On balmy summer nights,
menu: enjera (pancakes), a choice Tel (023) 533 4114 book a table on the patio.
of meats (mild to spicy), and some This century-old church has
vegetarian options. Try eggs in been stunningly transformed HILVERSUM: Surya
red sauce, or enjera with meat into a grand caf (on the Indian Map C3
or vegetable sauces. Open on ground floor) and a restaurant Langestraat 126, 1211 HC
weekends for breakfast and lunch. (upstairs) with an in-house Tel (035) 631 9420 Closed Mon
brewery. Most of the mainly Not your average curry house: this
Blauw Dutch meat and fish dishes are eatery features colourful decor and
Indonesian Map 3 A4 cooked with beer, and every long benches with lots of cushions.
Amstelveenseweg 158, 1075 XN course comes with a beer Serves a plethora of Indian and
Tel (020) 675 5000 recommendation. A favourite Nepalese specialities, such as
Blauw is one of the better-known among locals, the restaurant chicken tikka and lamb vindaloo,
and beloved Indonesian restau- can get noisy, especially on as well as vegetarian dishes.
rants in town. The decor is stylish weekend nights.
and intimate, without a hint HILVERSUM: Rex
of kitsch. Order the enormous International Map C3
rijsttafel. Worth the trip. HAARLEM: Specktakel Groest 23, 1211 CZ
Fusion Map B3 Tel (035) 631 9529
Ciel Bleu Spekstraat 4, 2011 HM Former 1920s Art Deco cinema
French Tel (023) 532 3841 turned into a hip club, lounge
Okura Hotel, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, Expect organic meat, fresh and restaurant, Rex dishes up
1072 LH seafood and exotic game salads, pasta and fish, but is best
Tel (020) 678 7111 Closed Sun prepared in Japanese, Chinese, known for the dry-aged steaks.
Awarded a second Michelin star Italian or French style with Side dishes are extra. Dine on
in 2011, this French restaurant Australian, African, American the terrace in the summer.
HOOFDDORP: Vork en Mes serves sandwiches, soup and relaxed atmosphere prove to be
Creative Map B3 snacks by day, and stone oven a winning combination. Try the
Paviljoenlaan 1, 2131 LZ pizzas, steaks and more lamb with apricots, sesame and
Tel (023) 557 2963 Closed Sun sophisticated dishes at night. seasonal vegetables.
Futuristic pavilion on the lake
provides a unique setting for a MAARSSEN: De Nonnerie
leisurely meal. The chef was trained French Map C4
at Michelin-starred restaurants Utrecht Langegracht 51, 3601 AK
and cooks up a changing five- Tel (0346) 562 201 Closed Sun; lunch
course surprise menu. AMERSFOORT: Hop en Hen Creative cooking guarantees a
International Map C4 great dining experience at this
MONNICKENDAM: Hof 8, 3811 CJ beautifully restored former
Posthoorn Tel (033) 737 0005 Closed Mon nunnery by the Vecht river. The
French Map C3 Chicken and beer feature three- to five-course set menus
Noordeinde 43, 1141 AG prominently on the menu at this are good value for money.
Tel (0299) 654 598 Closed Mon cheerful eatery, where tables at
Delicate French food is served in the back even have their own
two of the prettiest houses in this beer tap. Guests can also opt to DK Choice
fairytale town. The decor meticu- sit on the terrace that overlooks UTRECHT: Badhu
lously matches old-world charm the bustling town square. Arabian Map C4
with modern comforts. One Willem van Noortplein 19, 3514 GK
Michelin star. AMERSFOORT: De Saffraan Tel (030) 272 0444
French Map C4 As befits a restaurant set in a 1920s
OUDERKERK AAN DE Kleine Koppel 3, 3812 PG bathhouse, Badhus interior is
AMSTEL: Lute Tel (033) 448 1753 Closed Sun & inspired by an Arabian hamam.
French Map C3 Mon; SatWed lunch The restaurant is very popular
De Oude Molen 5, 1184 VW A century-old clipper on the Eem and is open all day, serving
Tel (020) 472 2462 Closed Sun; river has been transformed into Arabian breakfast, meze (small
Sat lunch an intimate and stylish restaurant. Arabian dishes to share) for lunch,
Set in an 18th-century gunpowder Alfresco dining on the deck in afternoon chai (high tea Arabian
mill, Lute makes the most of its the summer. style) and evening cocktails in a
location by the Amstel river, with thousand-and-one-nights setting.
sophisticated dishes served in BAARN: Pomodori
the stables, the greenhouse or Italian Map C3
on the terrace. Laandwarsstraat 15, 3743 BS UTRECHT: De Keuken
Tel (035) 541 4013 Closed Sun, van Gastmaal
SANTPOORT: Brasserie DenK MonWed lunch French Map C4
French Map B3 Tiny restaurant in an even tinier Biltstraat 5, 3572 AA
Duin en Kruidbergweg 60, 2071 LE back alley, Klein Fornuis prepares Tel (030) 233 4633 Closed Sun & Mon
Tel (023) 512 1800 classic dishes with an imaginative Just a few tables are centred
This sleek lounge bar and brasserie twist. Weekly changing set around an open kitchen, in
is housed in a Neo-Renaissance menus on offer. which the chef works wonders
castle-like country estate. The bar with sustainable fish, organic
menu offers brasserie food, while HOUTEN: Kasteel meat and regional vegetables.
the brasserie itself has a decent Heemstede Dishes are paired with fine wines.
restaurant menu. French Map C4
Heemsteedseweg 20, 3992 LS VREELAND AAN DE VECHT:
ZANDVOORT: Tijn Akersloot Tel (030) 272 2207 Closed Sun & De Nederlanden
International Map B3 Mon French Map C3
Boulevard Paulus Loot 1B, 2042 AD Housed in a romantic 17th-century Duinkerken 3, 3633 EM
Tel (023) 571 2547 castle, this Michelin-starred restaur- Tel (0294) 232 326 Closed Mon;
At the quiet end of the popular ant has a terrace that seems to Sat lunch
Zandvoort beach, this beach club float in the moat surrounding the Set in a monumental mansion,
castle. Fine dining, great service this boutique hotel and Michelin-
and an excellent wine list. starred restaurant serves refined
French cuisine along with a
LEUSDEN: Bistro Bling 500-bottle wine list. Fantastic
French Map C4 terrace and kitchen garden.
Waarden 25B, 3831 HA
Tel (033) 433 2070 Closed Mon
The interior lives up to the name
with cheap chandeliers, glass South Holland
curtains and baroque mirrors,
but the service is friendly and DELFT: La Tasca
the bistro fare is well done. Mediterranean Map B4
Voldersgracht 13B, 2611 ET
MAARSSEN: Delice Tel (015) 213 8535 Closed Sun
North African Map C4 Dont look for the menu there
Kaatsbaan 25, 3601 EB isnt one. Guests are invited to
Tel (0346) 284 4534 Closed Sun tell the chef what they dont like,
& Mon and then wait as he cooks up
Atmospheric interiors at Badhu, an Arabian North African dishes, great wines, a three- to five-course surprise
restaurant in Utrecht contemporary interiors and a meal for them.
LEIDEN: Buddhas
Thai Map B3
Botermarkt 20, 2311 EN
Tel (071) 514 0047
Huge golden Buddha statues line
the walls of this contemporary
restaurant. There is an extensive
menu, and the generous portions
make it good value for money.
DK Choice
NOORDWIJK: Bries
International Map B3
Koningin Astrid Boulevard 102,
2202 BD
Tel (071) 361 7891 Closed winter Tables on the beach at Bries in Noordwijk
Bries is not your average
makeshift beach club, but a Duck, Franois Geurds is now serving equally modern and
well-designed and spacious a master chef in his own right. well-presented food. The
pavilion, fitted out with stylish Vegetarians get their own multi- adjacent bistro is also superb.
furniture. There are loungers course tasting menu. The Chefs
and cabanas, plus massage Table is a coveted spot. THE HAGUE: HanTing Cuisine
and yoga on the beach. The Fusion Map B4
full-fledged menu leans ROTTERDAM: Zeezout Prinsestraat 33, 2513 CA
heavily towards fresh seafood. Seafood Map B4 Tel (070) 362 0828 Closed Mon; lunch
Pick your choice of fish at the Westerkade 11B, 3016 CL Chinese chef Han expertly fuses
Wednesday fish market. Open Tel (010) 436 5049 Closed Mon; traditional French cooking with
in the summer only. Sun lunch oriental flavours, creating dishes
Fabled fish restaurant, Zeezout that please the eye as well as the
is situated in the fishermans palate. The rice-paper lanterns
OOSTVOORNE: Aan Zee quarter of arguably the worlds are pretty too. One Michelin star.
Traditional Map B4 biggest seaport. Fresh fish only,
Strandweg 1, 3233 CW with seasonally changing menus. THE HAGUE: Logisch
Tel (0181) 820 990 Closed Mon & Tue Great in summer, with panoramic Organic Map B4
This striking pavilion in the dunes views over the Maas river. Maliestraat 9, 2514 CA
is truly sustainable: it is built of Tel (070) 363 5259 Closed Sun & Mon
untreated wood, fed by solar and SCHEVENINGEN: At Sea Organic food that is cheerful
wind energy and uses dune water. Mediterranean Map B4 and good value. Choose from
Round off your meal with breath- Heilingweg 138, 2583 DX set menus inspired by the sea,
taking views from the watchtower. Tel (070) 331 7445 Closed Mon & woods or garden. Or opt for
Open for lunch daily from May to Tue; Sat & Sun lunch la carte black Angus steak with
September if the weather is sunny. This sleek restaurant in an old asparagus and mushrooms or
fishing port dishes out delicious steamed sea catfish with herbs.
ROTTERDAM: Bird seafood (but also meat and game)
Italian/Mediterranean Map B4 paired with fine wines. Order THE HAGUE: The Penthouse
Raampoortstraat 26, 3032 AH la carte, go for the five-course International Map B4
Tel (010) 737 1154 Closed Sun & Mon Chefs Choice or choose from Rijswijkseplein 786, 2516 LX
Savour Neapolitan pizza and set menus that change daily. Tel (070) 305 1000
Mediterranean comfort food at the This is probably the poshest spot
restaurant wing of this popular SCHIPLUIDEN: Aan de Zweth in town, although not for those
jazz stage and nightclub. On French Map B4 afraid of heights. Packs a terrace
culinary cinema nights, guests Rotterdamseweg 480, 2636 KB caf, skybar, restaurant and night-
are served exactly what is being Tel (010) 470 4166 Closed Tue; club all in one, with a smashing
eaten on-screen. Set menus only. Sat lunch view from the 42nd floor of
Exclusive restaurant with two a skyscraper.
ROTTERDAM: Snsn Michelin stars and food, prices,
Chinese Map B4 ambience and service to match.
Hang 33, 3011 GG Set in a picturesque house along
Tel (010) 411 5681 Closed Tue the Schie creek. A seat at the Zeeland
A favourite among Chinese locals Chefs Table includes an aperitif
and visitors, Snsn is known aboard the restaurants own sloop. BURGH-HAAMSTEDE:
for the quality of food and Pannekoekenmolen
service. The traditional Sichuan STREEFKERK: De De Graanhalm
fare ranges from delicate lemon Limonadefabriek Bakery Map A4
fish to fiery sizzling beef. Creative Map B4 Burghseweg 53, 4328 LA
Nieuwe Haven 1, 2959 AT Tel (0111) 652 415
ROTTERDAM: FG Restaurant Tel (0184) 689 335 Closed Mon & This pancake house in a working
International Map B4 Tue; OctApr: Sat lunch windmill serves pancakes in
Katoshoek 37b, 3032 AE Despite its name and appearance, 35 sweet and savoury varieties,
Tel (010) 425 0520 Closed Sun & Mon this is not a lemonade factory, such as sugar and syrup, bacon
After years of molecular cooking but a strikingly modern floating and cheese or strawberries and
at Heston Blumenthals The Fat restaurant on the Lek river, whipped cream.
CADZAND: Pure C island, shrimp from the Wadden

Mediterranean Map A5 Sea and fish from the North Sea,
Boulevard de Wielingen 49, 4506 JK cheese from a nearby sheep farm
Tel (0117) 396 036 Closed Mon & Tue and locally brewed beer.
Latest venture of celebrity chef
Sergio Herman, this restaurant
was awarded a Michelin star DK Choice
soon after opening. Great food, VLIELAND: Uitspanning Het
relaxed atmosphere. Armhuis
International Map C1
Kerkplein 6, 8899 AW
DK Choice Tel (0562) 451 935 Closed Mon &
DOMBURG: Het Tue
Badpaviljoen This monumental 17th-
Seafood Map A5 century almshouse once
Badhuisweg 21, 4357 AV sheltered orphans, the elderly,
Tel (0118) 582405 Closed Tue & the poor and the needy. It is
Wed now home to the islands best
In a fairytale turn-of-the-century restaurant. A bistro by day,
bathing pavilion on a dune top, it serves three- or four-course
this fine-dining restaurant has Lovely table setting at Herberg Onder set menus for dinner. Enjoy
a clean-cut interior and serves de Linden, Aduard refined, classically cooked
anything fishy, from the freshest dishes either indoors or
Zeeland oysters and mussels superb views of the surrounding outside in the garden.
to North Sea crab and whole creeks and the Oosterschelde.
lobsters. Order a seafood plate Serves mainly seafood.
for two and dine alfresco on
the seaside terrace.
Groningen
West Frisian Islands
GOES: Jan ADUARD: Herberg Onder
Seafood Map A5 AMELAND: Boerenbont de Linden
Bierkade 3A, 4461 AV Modern Dutch Map C1 French Map D1
Tel (0113) 219 974 Closed Tue & Wed Strandweg 50, 9163 GN Nes Burg. van Barneveldweg 3, 9831 RD
This fish restaurant in the old Tel (0519) 542 293 Tel (050) 403 1406 Closed SunTue
harbour features a chic interior. A mix of old and new: the cuisine The chef has kept his Michelin
The chefs speciality is classically is traditional with a touch of the star rating for nearly three
cooked shellfish: oysters, crab and modern served on the classic decades, so expect good quality
clams galore. Quayside terrace. painted crockery from which the and prices to match. Limited but
restaurant takes its name. Old mouth-watering set menus.
HOOFDPLAAT: De Kromme Dutch texts on the walls temper
Watergang the contemporary decor. GRONINGEN: Het
Regional Map A5 Goudkantoor
Slijkplaat 6, 4513 KK SCHIERMONNIKOOG: Mediterranean Map D1
Tel (0117) 348 696 Closed Mon & Ambrosijn Waagplein 1, 9712 JZ
Tue; first two weeks in Jun; last week Regional Map D1 Tel (050) 589 1888 Closed Sun
Sepfirst week Oct Langestreek 13, 9166 LA dinner
Adventurous cooking with an Tel (0519) 720 261 The Gold Office is where taxes
emphasis on seafood is the high- This intimate place serves salads were collected during the
light of this two-star restaurant and sandwiches by day, and Golden Age. It now houses
located in a hamlet called Slijkplaat, three- to five-course set menus a fine restaurant, serving
or mud plate. Food comes straight for dinner. Ambro is the name of Mediterranean fare for the
from the silty clay of Zeeland. the wild apples that grow all over local palate.
the island, and which the restau-
MIDDELBURG: Scherp rant puts in its crunchy apple pie.
Regional Map A5 DK Choice
Wijngaardstraat 15, 4331 PM TERSCHELLING: Loods GRONINGEN: WEEVA
Tel (0118) 634 633 Closed Sun & Mon; International Map C1 Regional Map D1
end Julmid-Aug; end Decmid-Jan Willem Barentszkade 39, 8881 BD Gedempte Zuiderdiep 810,
Chef Scherp serves dishes such Tel (0562) 700 200 9711 HG
as Zeeland oysters with wasabi Comfort food is dished up in a Tel (050) 588 6555
cream, cucumber, passion fruit light-flooded dining room with This Living and Eating House
foam and chardonnay vinegar. an industrial feel. Scaffolding for All retains the original
Regional delicacies, some meat wood tables, designer chairs and atmosphere of the 1871
and game, but mainly seafood. large metal lamps constitute the soup kitchen it once was,
interior. Pleasant seaview terrace. even though the clientele
OUWERKERK: De Vierbannen is greatly changed. It serves
French Map A5 TEXEL: Topido good comfort food, prepared
Weg van de Buitenlandse Pers 3, Regional Map B2 with regional and healthy
4305 RJ Kikkertstraat 23, 1795 AA De Cocksdorp ingredients, at affordable
Tel (0111) 647 547 Closed Mon & Tue Tel (0222) 316 227 Closed Mon prices such as the dish of
Housing a brasserie and restaurant, Head here to get a taste of Texel: the day for under 10.
this building has a terrace with lamb, goat and beef from the
GRONINGEN: Flinders Caf MAKKUM: De Prins RODEN: Cuisinerie

International Map D1 Traditional Map C2 Mensinge
Nieuweweg 2/Schuitendiep 54, Kerkstraat 1, 8754 CN French Map D2
9711 TD Tel (0515) 231 510 Closed Tue; Mensingheweg 1, 9301 KA
Tel (050) 737 0242 Closed dinner Mon & Wed lunch Tel (050) 501 3149 Closed Mon &
Located in Noorderplantsoen Established in 1760, De Prins has Tue
park, this ship-shaped Art Deco been run by the same family for The coach house and stables
pavilion serves breakfast, lunch, three generations. The taproom of a 600-year-old manor tucked
snacks and dinner. Diners can features handpainted tiles on the away in a nature reserve now
choose from soups and salads to walls. Old-fashioned Dutch dining. house a wonderfully romantic
full-fledged meals. bistro and restaurant. No la
SNEEK: Cook & Ny carte at dinner.
NOORDLAREN: International Map C2
De Waterjuffers bij Vos 1e Oosterkade 24, 8605 AA RODERESCH: Herberg
Regional Map E2 Tel (0515) 433 019 Closed Mon van Es
Osdijk 4, 9479 TC This eatery has everything to International Map D2
Tel (050) 711 9310 Closed winter: attract diners: a sleek interior, an Hoofdweg 1, 9305 TD
MonFri international-sounding name Tel (050) 501 2660 Closed Mon &
This restaurant with a waterside and great tapas, from patatas Tue
terrace is set on the banks of the bravas and vegetable-filled filo to The natural area surrounding this
Zuidlaardermeer in a nature garlic snails and catfish sat. restaurant is popular among hikers
reserve. Serves eel and zander and bikers. Extensive menus for
straight from the lake, but also lunch and dinner, and a game
vegetarian and meat dishes. menu (in season) featuring deer,
Drenthe hare, boar and more.
ASSEN: Touch ZUIDLAREN: De Vlindertuin

Friesland Fusion Map D2 French Map E2
Markt 20, 9401 GT Stationsweg 41, 9471 GK
Tel (0592) 769 069 Closed Mon Tel (050) 409 4531 Closed Sun &
The chef cooks up modern takes Mon
DK Choice on traditional dishes here, such The Michelin-starred Butterfly
HARLINGEN: Anna as slowly braised duck glazed Garden is one of Drenthes finest
Casparii with hoisin sauce and star anise. restaurants, serving refined French
Seafood Map C2 Set in the towns prettiest square. food with a modern twist in a
Noorderhaven 6771, 8861 AL 300-year-old farmhouse. Order
Tel (0517) 412 065 the eight-course tasting menu.
Housed in a historic building DK Choice
dating back to the 18th century, BORGER: Villa van Streek
this traditional in-house restau- Regional Map E2
rant of Hotel Anna Casparii Torenlaan 13, 9531 JH Overijssel
offers an extensive selection of Tel (0599) 657 007 Closed Mon
fresh seafood and an impressive In the dolmen capital of Drenthe,
range of beers. The attractive a former Royal Marshals barracks
canalside setting provides now houses this artistically DK Choice
the ideal backdrop to enjoy decorated eatery. Open all day DE LUTTE: De
a leisurely meal. for brunch, lunch and dinner, Bloemenbeek
it offers a changing menu of French Map E3
regionally harvested dishes at Beuningerstraat 6, 7587 LD
HEERENVEEN: Het Ambacht affordable prices. The adjacent Tel (0541) 551 224
International Map D2 shop and tourist info sells maps Located in the gently rolling
Burg. Falkenaweg 56, 8442 LE for touring the nearby dolmens. landscape of the Dinkel valley,
Tel (0513) 232 172 Closed Sun & Michelin-starred The Flower
Mon; Sat lunch Stream is a fine dining restaurant
Chef Henk Markus, dubbed the attached to a country house
Frisian Jamie Oliver, transformed a hotel. The cuisine is a delightful
century-old technical school into amalgamation of French and
a trendy restaurant that employs Dutch styles, but the extensive
disadvantaged youth. Sample and well-chosen wine list is
local delicacies like monkfish, very French.
wagyu beef and ringneck dove.
LEEUWARDEN: De Walrus DEVENTER: Jackies

International Map D1 NYCuisine
Gouverneursplein 37, 8911 HH International Map D3
Tel (058) 213 7740 Grote Poot 19, 7411 KE
Spreading over three floors, this Tel (0570) 616 666
grand caf is a go-to place for This contemporary eatery is
dinner or just drinks. The menu inspired by the style of Jackie O
is international, ranging from pop- and the cuisine of New York City,
ular Dutch staples to Thai-style including Chinatown. Spot on,
curries. Welcoming pavement Smoked salmon, one of the dishes that with great food and attentive
terrace and lively atmosphere. visitors can sample in Friesland service in a stylish setting.
ENSCHEDE: Yuens Oriental Boshuis Drie dishes up evergreen

Bistro Dutch favourites, such as pan-
Asian Map E3 cakes for lunch and shrimp
Noorderhagen 9, 7511 EJ cocktail, game stew or juicy
Tel (053) 911 887 Closed Sun & Mon steaks for dinner.
The chef fuses fresh organic
ingredients and Japanese, Thai,
Mongolian, Cantonese and Korean DK Choice
flavours into an affordable surprise NIJMEGEN: De Nieuwe
menu at this modern Asian Winkel
restaurant with an open kitchen. Fusion Map D4
Hertogstraat 71, 6511 RW
ZWOLLE: Librijes Hotel Tel (024) 322 5093 Closed Sun &
Modern Dutch Map D3 Mon
Spinhuisplein 1, 8011 ZZ Radish in edible soil served
Tel (038) 421 2083 Closed Mon in a flowerpot, followed by a
lunch golden egg filled with
This hotel has two award-winning Charming dining area with neatly laid out poached yolk and these
restaurants, both offering inventive tables at Librijes Hotel, Zwolle are only the appetizers. Besides
menus. Set menus rule the roost; a mad chef, The New Shop
try the elaborate seven-course boasts a modern decor, friendly
dinner. There is an atelier where Gelderland atmosphere, a minimal menu
groups can cook their meals under and food that is a feast for
a chefs supervision. Book ahead. ARNHEM: ZafVino the eyes as much as the
Mediterranean Map D4 taste buds.
Zwanenstraat 22, 6811 DD
Tel (026) 379 0009 Closed Tue & Wed
Flevoland Sit wherever there is room,
including communal tables, at
ALMERE-HAVEN: Bij Brons this atmospheric eatery. There is North Brabant
French Map C3 no fixed menu; choose from
Sluis 3, 1357 NZ dishes listed on the blackboard. BERGEN OP ZOOM:
Tel (036) 540 1126 Closed Mon Le Bouleau
Right in the marina, this restaurant BARNEVELD: De Oranjerie International Map B5
has tables centred around the International Map D4 Bemmelenberg 16, 4614 PG
open kitchen. Fresh, mostly Stationsweg 4A, 3771 VH Tel (0164) 258 782 Closed Mon & Tue
organic and seasonal ingredients. Tel (0342) 419 601 Closed Sun & Mon In a romantic spot in the woods,
The five-course surprise menu In the grounds of a mock Tudor this restaurant serves inter-
with paired wines is a good deal. castle, this fine-dining restaurant national dishes such as garlic
is an accurate replica of a 19th- gambas and grilled ribeye. The
BIDDINGHUIZEN: century greenhouse. The food, attractively priced three-course
Beachclub NU from local roe to whole lobsters, market menu is a good choice.
International Map C3 matches the ambience.
Bremerbergdijk 10, 8256 RD BREDA: Wolfslaar
Tel (0321) 331 629 Closed winter: BEEKBERGEN: Het Ei van French Map B5
Mon & Tue Columbus Wolfslaardreef 100102, 4834 SP
Set on a pretty stretch of sand French Map D4 Tel (076) 560 8000 Closed Sun; Sat
along Lake Veluwe, this smart Stoppelbergweg 63, 7361 TE lunch
beach club offers barbecue, Tel (055) 506 1498 Closed Mon & Tue Set in the converted coach house
tablegrill and a limited menu in the The Egg of Columbus offers a of a chic country estate, this
ground-floor lounge and terrace. limited, exquisite but affordable Michelin-starred restaurant offers
For la carte head upstairs, where menu, in the midst of the leafy modern takes on classic dishes
lake views are an added attraction. Veluwe nature reserve. Three- using sustainable and organic
course set menu for under 30. ingredients, like quail with foie
gras or halibut with mussels.
DK Choice BERG EN DAL: PUUR M
URK: Restaurant De Boet International Map D4
Seafood Map C3 Zevenheuvelenweg 87, 6571 CJ DK Choice
Wijk 161, 8321 EM Tel (024) 684 1452 Closed Tue EINDHOVEN: Kreeftenbar
Tel (0527) 688 736 Closed Sun; This stylish wine bar-restaurant Seafood Map C5
Sat & Mon lunch has a hundred wines on the list Kleine Berg 21, 5611 JS
This is the smartest restaurant and about two-dozen by the Tel (040) 236 4440 Closed Mon
in the village of Urk, occupying glass, along with a plethora of Discover lobster for the masses:
two old harbourside buildings starters, comparable to Spanish lobster soup, lobster salad,
an old warehouse and a tapas and raciones. lobster rolls and half and whole
steamship office. The menu lobsters, either cooked or gratin,
changes daily and offers the ERMELO: Boshuis Drie along with a good choice of
freshest of seafood. Try the Traditional Map C3 Asian dishes, from sushi to king
fried plaice, with scallops, Sprielderweg 205, 3852 MK crab and Peking duck. The
mashed potatoes, string beans, Tel (0577) 407 206 Closed Mon prices here are easily affordable,
zucchini and sweet onion A beautifully preserved thatched with a three-course lobster
sauce with mustard. farmhouse in the midst of the dinner for under 30.
Forest of the Dancing Trees,
EINDHOVEN: Smeagol Expect fine dining, a warm, building right on the edge
Argentinian Map C5 intimate atmosphere, friendly of the Maas river. Great looks,
Kerkstraat 10, 5611 GJ service and an excellent wine list. spectacular tastes.
Tel (040) 737 0298
Enjoy juicy steaks straight from MAASBRACHT: Da Vinci SLENAKEN: De La Frontire
the Argentinian pampas. Other French Map D6 South African Map D6
dishes include empanadas and Havenstraat 27, 6051 CS Grensweg 1, 6277 NA
fajitas, garlic gambas and mixed Tel (0475) 465 979 Closed Mon & Tel (043) 457 4302 Closed Mon & Tue
grill. Modern interior. Tue; Sat lunch Experience a slice of South Africa
Not a pizzeria but a French in south Limburg, complete with
EINDHOVEN: Piet Hein Eek restaurant, this place is run by the zebra skins, pottery and colourful
Creative Map C5 only Dutch female chef with two art, Cape wines and dishes like
Halvemaanstraat 28, 5651 BP Michelin stars. Expect fine French biltong pt and Kalahari kudu.
Tel (040) 400 9005 Closed Mon fare with meticulously paired
A beautifully revamped former wines, stiff linen and ditto prices. UBACHSBERG: De Leuf
Philips factory now houses Dutch Creative Map D6
designer Piet Hein Eeks flagship Dalstraat 2, 6367 JS
store, workshop, art gallery and DK Choice Tel (045) 575 0226 Closed Sun &
restaurant. Design lovers paradise. MAASTRICHT: Umami Mon; Sat lunch
Chinese Map D6 This fine-dining restaurant
KAATSHEUVEL: De Molen Stationsstraat 12, 6221 BP with two Michelin stars serves
International Map C4 Tel (043) 351 0006 Closed Mon creatively cooked dishes like sea
Vaartstraat 102, 5171 JG & Tue lunch urchin with avocado, and pigeon
Tel (0416) 530 230 Closed Mon This is one of a small chain of with liquid black pudding.
Expect adventurous Michelin- decidedly modern conceptual
starred cooking at this windmill Chinese eateries (there are six VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
on the edge of a national park. other Umamis around the Tapas BarCelona
The ten-course tasting menu is country), the side project of Spanish Map D6
absolutely amazing. chef Han of Michelin-starred Berkelstraat 6, 6301 CC
restaurant HanTing in The Tel (043) 852 4524 Closed Mon & Tue
NUENEN: Olijf Hague. Michelin-star quality at The menu at this tapas bar ranges
Mediterranean Map C5 bargain prices: choose seven from garlic bread and spicy
Berg 18, 5671 CC dishes in three courses for potatoes to bacon-wrapped dates
Tel (040) 291 3476 Closed Wed; around 20. and pata negra ham. Gaud-
Jul & Aug: also Tue inspired pillars, Andalusian lamps
This restaurant is located in the and a big Osborne bull on the wall.
village where Van Gogh painted MAASTRICHT: SoFa
The Potato Eaters. Serves mostly Mediterranean Map D6 VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
Mediterranean seafood. Affordable Hoge Weerd 6, 6229 AM Aan de Linde
set menus with paired wines. Tel (043) 367 1337 Closed Sun & French Map D6
Mon Jan Deckerstraat 1B, 6301 GX
S-HERTOGENBOSCH: Short for sounds fantastic, SoFa Tel (043) 601 0577
Eetbar Dit is set inside the coach house A brasserie by day and a
International Map C4 of a 15th-century castle on a restaurant in the evening, this
Snellestraat 2426, 5211 EN peninsula in the Maas river. attractive, popular local eatery
Tel (073) 614 1015 Serves sunny Mediterranean food has taken over what was once a
Try a modern take on the old inside and out on the terrace. historic and eclectic casino hotel.
Dutch eetcaf here. Tapas-like
small dishes such as shrimp MAASTRICHT: Beluga WELL: Brienen aan de Maas
croquettes, burgers and rendang Loves You French Map D5
that are meant to be shared. International Map D6 Grotestraat 11, 5855 AK
Plein 1992 12, 6221 JP Tel (0478) 501 967 Closed Mon & Tue
S-HERTOGENBOSCH: De Tel (043) 321 3364 Closed Sun The scenic setting of this Michelin-
Verkadefabriek Visit this star-studded restaurant, starred restaurant along the Maas
International Map C4 both in terms of Michelin stars river is matched by its regionally
Boschdijkstraat 45, 5211 VD (two) and visiting celebrities influenced cooking. The la carte
Tel (073) 681 8170 (many), in a striking modern menu focuses mainly on seafood.
This former cookie factory now
houses a theatre, cinema and
restaurant. Enjoy lunch, tapas and
dinner in an industrial setting.
Limburg
GULPEN: LAtelier
French Map D6
Markt 9, 6271 BD
Tel (043) 450 4490 Closed Tue &
Wed; Sat lunch
LAtelier has to be rated one
of Limburgs best restaurants. Diners at the popular Verkadefabriek in s-Hertogenbosch
SHOPPING IN THE
NETHERLANDS
Throughout the Netherlands you will find centres are usually on the outskirts of towns
a huge range of shops and markets. Many and sometimes grouped together in retail
towns will have large retail chains, but you parks with parking facilities, child-care
will also find unique independent shops facilities and a cafeteria. Most are open, and
selling clothes, everyday goods and knick- at their busiest, on public holidays. Recent
knacks. Large specialized shops such as fashion items can often be picked up cheaply
furniture stores, factory outlets and garden at street markets and second-hand shops.
at flea markets, but Fashion

your best bet is to The Dutch are spending more
go to an authentic and more of their incomes on
antique dealer. Many good-quality fashionable
antique dealers clothing. Besides internationally
specialize in a renowned couturiers, many
particular period or up-and-coming fashion
field prints or designers have set up their own
clocks, for instance. boutiques. Their clothes are
If you prefer buying often handmade and fairly
antiques at auctions, pricey. More affordable clothes
you would are available at the larger
Shop selling antiques and curios probably do fashion retailers, both
best to visit home-grown and
Markets the branches of international. A typical
Practically every town and the international Dutch way of being
village holds a general market auctioneers Sothebys fashionable is to
at least once a week. There are or Christies. In smaller combine a new and
also specialized markets, for auction houses too, expensive garment with
example, the farmers markets, interesting pieces often Antique dealers second-hand clothes. To
where you can buy fresh farm go under the hammer. shop sign see the designs of the
produce, as well as antique Another way of buying most famous couturiers,
markets and book fairs. Famous antiques is to visit the antique it is best to go to Amsterdam. On
specialized markets include the markets and fairs that are the PC Hooftstraat you will find
cheese markets of Alkmaar, held regularly throughout clothes by Hugo Boss, Armani
Edam and Gouda. Then there the country. and Yves Saint-Laurent, while
are also flea markets, where Amsterdams Nieuwe classical English clothing
traders and individuals alike Spiegelstraat is the place for and shoes are to be found
sell second-hand goods. antique collectors. Vendors in the shops on the Haagse
The Netherlands biggest include antique dealers Noordeinde in The Hague.
flea market takes place on specializing in ceramics, glass, Chains such as Vera Moda sell
Koninginnedag (Queens Day) antique prints, paintings and everyday and durable clothing.
(see p36), when practically half nautical memorabilia.
of the country tries to get rid of Haarlem, Middelburg and
unwanted goods on the street. s-Hertogenbosch have large
Fairs are also popular and are numbers of antique shops;
held twice a year. Most markets these are often located in
start at 9:30am and end at 4pm old farmhouses. The most
or 5pm, while some are open common pieces on sale are
either in the mornings or the pine or oak furniture. The
afternoons only. MECC in Maastricht and
the Brabanthallen in
s-Hertogenbosch are the
Antiques venues of annual antique fairs,
Antique collectors will find such as the renowned TEFAF,
plenty to occupy themselves the worlds biggest art and
with in the Netherlands. If you antique fair. Antique dealers
are fortunate, you may strike it from around the world come One of the countrys many antique and
lucky in second-hand shops or here to trade. second-hand shops
SHOPPING IN THE NETHERLANDS 417
La Vie in Utrecht where international collections

has a good range in particular are auctioned. The
of shops; in The Eland De Zon Loth Gijselman in
Hague, De Passage Diemen, deals in antiquities and
is the prime art and auctions furniture and
shopping centre. estates. Holbein in Rijssen sells
Batavia Stad Outlet art and antiques, the Veilinghuis
Shopping centre de Voorstraat in Zwolle
in Lelystad is a specializes in stamps and coins.
shopping village
built to resemble
a 17th-century Garden Centres
town. Here Dutch garden centres sell plants,
A trendy clothing boutique featuring the very latest in manufacturers of seeds, bulbs, soil, compost and
Dutch fashion expensive brands garden furniture. For more
sell end-of-line unusual plants go to specialist
Retail Stores and products, in particular clothes, growers, of which there are many
Shopping Centres at heavy discounts. The designer in the Netherlands. Garden
The most upmarket retail store in outlet park in Roermond is a centres are usually on the edge of
the Netherlands is the Bijenkorf, similar place to find bargains. towns or just outside them. They
which offers contemporary are usually open for business on
furniture, the latest names in Sundays and public holidays.
fashion, a huge book Furniture
department and all major The Netherlands top furniture
cosmetics brands. The Vroom & designer, Jan des Bouvrie, has his
Dreesmann department stores own shop in a converted arsenal
are slightly smaller and offer in Naarden called Studio het
lower prices than the Bijenkorf. Arsenaal. At Van Til Interior in
One step lower on the prices Alkmaar you can buy designer
scale is Hema, which offers a furniture. In Amsterdam-Zuidoost,
wide and remarkably trendy you can spend a day viewing
range of things such as lighting furniture in the 75 shops of the
accessories and household Villa Arena. Woonthemacentrum
goods. At most shopping De Havenaer in Nijkerk and
centres you will find the same Palazzo Lelystad also offer An abundance of flowers at a Dutch
names, although some centres interesting collections. You will garden centre
are reserved for more exclusive find meubelboulevards,
shops. One of these is the shopping streets of furniture
Magna Plaza in Amsterdam, stores, throughout the country. Chocolate
where you will find upmarket Verkade and Droste are the
boutiques and jewellers shops. Netherlands best-known
De Groene Passage in Rotterdam Auction and chocolate makers, and you can
is a covered shopping centre Sales Houses find their products everywhere.
dedicated to the environment, The famous British auction Many towns now have specia-
selling items ranging from houses Sothebys and Christies lized confectioners shops. The
organic meat to New Age books. have branches in Amsterdam, renowned Belgian confectioner
Leonidas has numerous outlets
in the country. Puccini Bomboni
produce exceptional chocolates,
sold individually.
Tea and Coffee

The Netherlands has been a tea
and coffee importer for centuries,
and you can find specialist tea
and coffee shops everywhere;
many still roast their own coffee.
In Amsterdam, Simon Levelt
always has at least 25 varieties
of coffee and 100 tea blends on
sale. Geels & Co Koffiebranderij,
an old family business, has a
Magna Plaza (see p94), open for Sunday shopping roasting house and museum.
What to Buy in Holland

In the cities and tourist resorts, souvenir shops are not difficult to
find. But if you are looking for something out of the ordinary,
either for yourself or as a gift, you can often find something in
more specialized shops, or even in a supermarket. Flowers and
Delftware never fail to delight. For other things worth taking
home, for example, local delicacies such as Dutch cheese and
speculaas, or drinks such as jenever gin (see p420).
Souvenir Dolls
Dutch national costume is hardly worn in the
Netherlands any more, except by souvenir
dolls such as this trio from Volendam.
Miniature Houses
Painted miniature pottery houses (often Delft
blue) are a popular souvenir. Some are Painted Wooden Clogs
designed to be filled with jenever gin, while The traditional wooden clog has come to
others are purely ornamental. symbolize Holland. They can be bought in all
colours and sizes. They can also be ordered
online at www.woodenshoes.com
Dutch
bulbs Red Coral
Necklaces of red
coral are often part
of traditional Gouda
costume in places Pipes
such as Volendam. Long-
However, they also necked clay
add a nice touch pipes from
when worn with Gouda, known
modern clothing. as Grouwenaars
(see p243), have
been made here
since the
beginning of the
17th century and
Flowers make a nice gift for
Bulbs and cut flowers are available all smokers and non-
the year round in the innumerable smokers alike.
flower shops, flower stalls and garden
centres that are easily found
throughout the Netherlands.
Prints of Dutch windmills
Old Maps and Prints

Amsterdam in particular has made its mark
in the field of cartography. Many antique
shops sell atlases and books of prints.
Reproductions of maps of Amsterdam and Russia
Inlaid diamond necklace
Diamonds
Diamonds were cut in
Amsterdam as early as the 16th
century, and the town continues
to be one of the main diamond Diamonds of different colours
Diamond brooch centres of the world. Many
jewellers sell uncut diamonds
and second-hand diamond rings.
Modern Delftware
Modern blue Delftware items decorated with
windmills or other images of Holland are
available in the form of tea sets, sculptures,
vases and even royal Delft ashtrays. When
buying, make sure that there is a certificate of
authenticity (see p32) to go with it.
Delftware mugs
Makkum Pottery
This colourful earthenware,
primarily tiles, plates and
bowls, is still produced
by the Tichelaar factory
(see p33) at Makkum
in Friesland.
Speculaas A distinctive
These biscuits, Edam cheese
flavoured with
cinnamon, cloves
and ginger, are
eaten mainly
around St
Nicholass day.
Edam Cheese
Speculaas The world-famous Edam cheese
(see p178) has an excellent taste
and makes a good souvenir.
Speculaas Board
Mould your own speculaas biscuits Haagse Hopjes
in these biscuit moulds, or use These coffee-flavoured
them for attractive wall ornaments. sweets were first made
at the end of the
Zeeland Butter 18th century at the
Candies inspiration of a Baron
These butter- Hop of The Hague.
flavoured sweets
from Zeeland,
made of glucose
sugar syrup and Hopjes
Butter butter, are
delicious.
candies
Dutch Beer
The Dutch are
renowned beer-
drinkers. In addition
to the three brands
depicted here, there
are countless other
varieties available.
Zaans Mustard
This coarse mustard Jonge grain Sonnema Zwarte Kip
is made at De
jenever herenburg advocaat
Huisman mustard
plant on the Zaanse
Schans (see p179).
Spirits
Gingerbread Renowned Dutch
spirits include jenever, a
kind of gin sold in glass
or stoneware bottles
(there are four basic
kinds, including young
Gingerbread Liquorice Drops and old), berenburg,
This scrumptious bread comes in a The ubiquitous liquorice the Frisian distilled
variety of regional variations, and is drops are sold either herbal drink and
excellent at breakfast or even as a snack salted or sweet. advocaat, made of
especially with a thick layer of butter. brandy and eggs.
DIRECTORY
Antiques Coolsingel 105, Holbein Kunst- en Puccini Bomboni
Rotterdam. Antiekveilingen Staalstraat 17,
Brabanthallen Road Map B4.
Diezekade 2, Jutestraat 31, Rijssen. Amsterdam.
Tel 0800-0818.
s-Hertogenbosch. Road Map D3. Map 5 A2
Sint-Jacobsstraat 1a,
Road Map C4. Tel 0548-541577. Tel 020-6265474.
Utrecht.
Tel 073-6293911. Road Map C4. Singel 184, Amsterdam.
Sothebys
Spring antique fairs. Tel 0800-0818. Map 1 4C
Emmalaan 23,
Le Collectionneur bijenkorf.nl
Amsterdam. Tel 020-4278341.
Damplein 5, Middelburg. Magna Plaza Tel 020-5502200.
Road Map A5. Tea and Coffee
Nieuwez. Voorburgwal
Tel 0118-638595. Veilinghuis de
182, Amsterdam. Droom van Utrecht
Map 1 4C Voorstraat
EH Arins Kappers Schoutenstraat 6, Utrecht.
Tel 020-5703570. Voorstraat 23, Zwolle.
Keizersgracht 208, Road Map C4.
Amsterdam. Road Map D3.
De Passage Tel 030-2316934.
Map 1 B4. Tel 038-4211045.
Passage, The Hague.
Tel 020-6235356. Road Map B4. Geels & Co
(call for appointment) Tel 030-2565165.
Chocolates Koffiebranderij
Emmakade 2 Antiek Huize van Wely Kikkertweg 22, 1521 RG
La Vie
Emmakade 2, Shoppingcentre Beethovenstraat 72, Wormerveer.
Leeuwarden. Lange Viestraat 669, Amsterdam. Road Map B3
Road Map D1. Utrecht. Tel 075-2340747.
Map 4 D5.
Tel 058-2153464. Road Map C4. Tel 020-6622009. Het Klaverblad
Jan de Raad Tel 030-2340088.
Hoofdstraat 88, Hogewoerd 15, Leiden.
Antiquiteiten Noordwijk (ZH).
Hekellaan 10,
Furniture Road Map B3.
Road Map B3. Tel 071-5133655.
s-Hertogenbosch. Studio het Arsenaal Tel 071-3612228.
Road Map C4. Kooltjesbuurt 1, Koffiebrander
Tel 065-3177494. Naarden-Vesting. Leonidas Blanche Dael
TEFAF Maastricht Road Map C3. Stationsplein 34, Wolfstraat 28, Maastricht.
Art and Antiques Fair Tel 035-6941144. Amsterdam. Road Map C6.
(Mar), Maastricht. Van Til Interieur Map 2 E3. Tel 043-3213475.
Road Map D6. Noorderkade 1038, Tel 020-3305261.
tefaf.com Alkmaar. Rembrandthof 55, Simon Levelt koffie-
Road Map B3. Amstelveen. en theehandel
De Tijdspiegel
Nieuwstraat 17, Tel 072-5112760. Road Map B3. Prinsengracht 180,
Middelburg. Villa Arena Tel 026-2320000. Amsterdam.
Road Map A5. Arena Boulevard, Radboudkwartier 4, Map 1 4B
Tel 0118-627799. Amsterdam-Zuidoost. Utrecht. Tel 020-6240823.
Tel 0800-8455227. Road Map C4. Veerstraat 15, Bussum.
Retail Stores and villaarena.nl Road Map C3.
Shopping Centres Tel 030-2110011.
Ds. Jan Scharpstraat Tel 035-6939459.
Auction and Sales
29881, Rotterdam. Zwanestraat 38,
De Bijenkorf Houses
Dam 1, Amsterdam. Road Map B4. Groningen.
Map 2 D3. Christies Tel 010-4048210. Road Map D1.
Tel 0800-0818. Cornelis Schuytstraat 57, Tel 050-3114333.
Gentsestraat 8, Hulst.
Amsterdam.
Ketelstraat 45, Arnhem. Road Map B5. Gierstraat 65, Haarlem.
Map 3 4C
Road Map D4. Tel 0114-321848. Road Map B3.
Tel 020-5755255.
Tel 0800-0818. Oude Kerkstraat 35, Sluis. Tel 023-5311861.
Wagenstraat 32, De Eland De Zon Botermarkt 12, Leiden.
Road Map A5.
The Hague. Loth Gijselman
Tel 0117-760003. Road Map B3.
Road Map B4. Industrieterrein Verrijn
Huevelgalerij 131b, Tel 071-5131159.
Tel 0800-0818. Stuart, Weesperstraat
Piazza 1, Eindhoven. 110112, Diemen. Eindhoven. Vismarkt 21, Utrecht.
Road Map C5. Road Map C3. Road Map C5. Road Map B3.
Tel 0800-0818. Tel 020-6230343. Tel 040-3070000. Tel 030-2314495.
ENTERTAINMENT IN
THE NETHERLANDS
Cultural life in the Netherlands is not confined local VVV (tourist) offices; another option is
to the Randstad. Outside the big cities there the AUB Ticketshop (see p153) in Amsterdam.
is also plenty to do. There is a theatre or a Here you can usually book tickets, or obtain
cultural centre in just about every town, where more information about performances. You
theatre groups, cabaret artists, orchestras and can also get tickets and information via the
rock bands perform. There is also a growing Uitlijn (0900-0191). The major national
number of entertainment complexes, such dailies publish a list of events each week.
as the Miracle Planet Boulevard centre in Most cities publish a weekly uitkrant, or
Enschede. You can find out whats on either by entertainment guide, while the internet
contacting the relevant venue or through the is another source of information.
Theatre De Brakke Grond (see p151) Toneelschuur in Haarlem have

The Netherlands boasts a and Frascati. The Soeterijn, on won critical acclaim. The
large number of theatres, the other hand, specializes in De Appel group stages both
concentrated mostly around theatre from developing experimental and repertory
Amsterdam. That citys top countries. The theatre theatre at the Appeltheater
theatre is the Stadsschouwburg company frequently wins in The Hague. Throughout
(see p116), where many touring prizes: the Theatergroup the Netherlands there are
theatre companies put on Hollandia has won great numerous excellent theatre
performances. The Netherlands acclaim with its performances groups. Het Zuidelijk Toneel
largest theatre company, in large halls and aircraft of Eindhoven in the south
Toneelgroep Amsterdam, is hangars. The musical dramas always packs theatre halls, as
based here and is now directed of Orkater can be seen in do the Theater van het Oosten
by Ivo van Hove. various parts of the country from Arnhem in the east of the
The annual highlight for at different times of the country and the Noord
opera, theatre and dance is the year, but mainly at the Nederlands Toneel from
Holland Festival. The best in Stadsschouwburg and Groningen in the north.
international cultural offerings Bellevue. De la Mar stages big Every year in May, the
is to be had during the box-office hits, comedy and Festival aan de Werf in
Amsterdam Festival. During concerts by Dutch solo artists Utrecht presents an
the International Theatre and groups. Youth-focused appealing smorgasbord
School Festival in June, theatre is put on in De of theatre and cabaret
experimental drama is Krakeling. For years now performances.
performed at venues such as the performances by the
Musicals and Cabaret
The Netherlands most
outstanding musical theatres
are the AFAS Circustheater of
The Hague, the Beatrix Theater
in Utrecht and the Koninklijk
Theater Carr (see p139) in
Amsterdam. These stage
Dutch versions of big box-
office hits such as Les Misrables
and Miss Saigon.
De Kleine Komedie (see p153),
a magnificent 17th-century
building on the Amstel river
opposite the Muziektheater, is
a favourite venue for cabaret
groups. Stand-up comedy has
also gained popularity mainly
through this venue. Other
comedy venues in Amsterdam
are Comedy Caf, Toomler and
Scene from the musical Oliver! at the Theater Carr Boom Chicago.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S 423
Dance
The Netherlands is the proud
home of two world-famous
ballet troupes: the Nationale
Ballet and the Nederlands
Dans Theater (NDT). The
Nationale Ballet is based in
the Musiektheater (see p153),
which is commonly known
among Amsterdam theatre-
goers as the Stopera. This
contemporary building can
accommodate 1,600 people
and is a significant centre both
for dance and for opera. The
foyer affords a pleasant view
of the River Amstel.
The Nederlands Dans Dr Anton Philipszaal Music Theater and Lucent Dance Opera Danstheater in The Hague
Theater, based in The
Hague, offers a colourful Film are premiered. The award
programme of modern and Going to the movies continues given to the winning films
contemporary dance and to be a popular pastime in the at this festival is the much-
under the direction of the Netherlands, and you will find coveted Golden Calf statuette.
present choreographers has at least one or more cinemas The IDFA (International
staged sold-out performances in almost every town. Documentary Film Festival
with live music. Introdans of Amsterdam alone has more Amsterdam) is the biggest
Arnhem performs an exciting than 45 cinemas. Foreign- of its kind, held every year in
combination of jazz, flamenco language films are shown in November/December. The
and ethnic dance. The the original language with renowned International Film
countrys biggest choreo- subtitles. The most magnificent Festival in Rotterdam takes
graphers use the Holland cinema in Amsterdam is place each January.
Festival as a platform to Tuschinski, an Art Deco
present their new creations masterpiece built from 1918
to the public. During the 21, with a stylish foyer and Orchestral, Chamber
Internationale Theaterschool generous seating (see and Choral Music
Festival, which also takes place p119). The major premieres The Concertgebouw (see
in June, the proportion of are held here: if you want p124) in Amsterdam is
dance performed is growing. to see famous faces, the traditionally the most
The festival venue is the Nes, best time is Wednesday important venue
one of Amsterdams oldest evenings at the for concert music. The
streets. Julidans is the name cinema entrance. Grote Zaal hall is famous
given to a summer dance There is a list of all films for its acoustics, and
festival in Amsterdam, in which that are showing at the its resident musicians
contemporary dance by box office of every The Golden are the Koninklijk
various international dance cinema, and such lists are Calf statuette Concertgebouworkest.
companies is performed. also displayed in cafs During the summer
and restaurants. Cinema months, the orchestra puts
programmes change every on special concerts.
Thursday, so you will find a list An outstanding orchestra is
of films that are on in the Rotterdams Philharmonisch
Wednesdays evening papers Orkest, whose conductor,
and in Thursdays morning the Czech Jir Belohlvek,
papers. De Filmkrant is a much- was appointed in 2012.
respected movie magazine The orchestra is based in
that is published every De Doelen in Rotterdam.
Monday, which in addition to The Residentie Orkest, whose
the weeks film listings also history goes back almost 100
provides background infor- years, performs regularly at
mation on major films. Major the Zuiderstrandtheater in
film events in the Netherlands The Hague and is not to
are the Nederlands Film be confused with the
Festival, which is held in Muziekcentrum Frits Philips
Noord Nederlands Toneel staging Anton Utrecht in September and in Eindhoven, where the
Chekhovs The Seagull October, where Dutch films Brabants Orkest is based.
the fact that the building in

which it is located used to
be a dairy. The programme
in both of these respected
venues changes constantly,
and all rock and pop
enthusiasts will eventually
find something to their taste.
Every Sunday in summer
there are free open-air concerts
in the Vondelpark, often with
renowned bands in the line-up.
Programmes are displayed at
the entrances to the park. In
June the worlds largest free
pop festival, the Haagse
Zuiderpark Parkpop, is held
in The Hague. Another
The Amsterdamse Koninklijk Concertgebouworkest performing annual festival which attracts
visitors from near and far
The Gelders Orkest makes used for experimental works. is the Pinkpopfestival in
regular appearances in the The Stadsschouwburg (see Landgraaf (Limburg).
Musis Sacrum concert hall p116) on the Leidseplein
in Arnhem. Another go-to is also host to a great deal
venue offering a rich of opera, although if Jazz
programme of music is experimental opera is your The foremost venue of the
the TivoliVredenburg. thing, the Westergasfabriek jazz scene in Amsterdam is
is probably the best venue. the Bimhuis. Although the
Another good venue to watch casual visitor might find the
Church Music an opera is the Wilminktheater atmosphere a tad pretentious,
Of the many organs in the in Enschede. the music here is of top
Netherlands, that of the Grote quality, and the Bimhuis
Kerk in Elburg is probably the enjoys a reputation that
best known. Every year it is Rock And Pop goes far beyond the
used in the national amateur Two venues in countrys borders. There
organist competition. The particular have are good jazz cafs to be
instruments in the Oude Kerk established found all over
and the Nieuwe Kerk are the themselves as the Amsterdam, most
most famous of Amsterdams most important of them featuring
42 church organs. Organ rock venues in the local jazz bands.
concerts can also be heard Netherlands: Around the
at the Waalse Kerk and also Ahoy in Leidseplein are the
on Tuesdays at lunchtime Rotterdam and Alto Jazz Caf and
in the Westerkerk. Vredenburg in Bourbon Street, which
The programme of the Utrecht, although is open until 4am on
17th-century Engelse Kerk international rock Hans Dulfer weekdays and until 5am
contains a wide variety of stars now perform in on weekends. Alto is best
music genres, ranging from many parts of the Netherlands. on Wednesdays, when the
Baroque to modern. In With a capacity of over 5,000, godfather of Amsterdam jazz,
the Domkerk in Utrecht, the easily accessible Heineken Hans Dulfer, performs. His
concerts are performed on Music Hall is Amsterdams daughter Candy, who has
a regular basis. prime rock venue. It has been gained international renown,
used for concerts by megastars sometimes plays in De
such as the late Michael Heeren van Aemstel. De
Opera Jackson and the Rolling Engelbewaarder is a venue
Established in 1988 in Stones. However, for locals, for Sunday jazz. Meanwhile,
Amsterdam, the Dutch there are only two real rock in Rotterdam, the annual
National Opera & Ballet is the venues: Paradiso and North Sea Jazz Festival takes
home of the Nederlandse De Melkweg. Paradiso, in place in the Congresgebouw.
Opera. One of Europes most a former church near the Dizzy jazz caf has become
modern opera theatres, its Leidseplein, enjoys the greatest a household name among
stage has been graced by respect. The Melkweg (Milky jazz-lovers in Rotterdam,
many established international Way), which is also near the hosting over 100 jazz
companies, although it is also Leidseplein, owes its name to concerts every year.
DIRECTORY
Theatres t Spant Orchestra, Westerkerk
Kuyperlaan 3, Bussum. Chamber and Prinsengracht 281,
Appeltheater
Road Map C3.
Choral Music Amsterdam. Map 1 B4.
Duinstraat 68, The Tel 020-624776.
Hague. Road Map B4. Tel 035-6913949. Anton Philipszaal
Tel 070-3502200. Spuiplein 150, The Hague. Opera
Theater aan het Road Map B4.
Arsenaaltheater Vrijthof Tel 070-8800333. Dutch National
Arsenaalplein 1, Vrijthof 47, Maastricht. Opera & Ballet
Concertgebouw
Vlissingen. Road Map A5. Road Map C6. Map 5 B2.
De Vereeniging
Tel 0118-430303. Tel 043-3505555. Keizer Karelplein, Wilminktheater
Bellevue Nijmegen. Road Map D4. Wenninkgaarde 4042,
Toneelschuur Tel 024-3221100. Enschede. Road Map E3.
Leidsekade 90,
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Lange Begijnestr 9, Tel 053-4858500.
De Doelen
Tel 020-5305301/02. Haarlem. Road Map B3.
Schouwburgplein 50,
Tel 023-5173910. Rock and Pop
Chass Theater Rotterdam. Road Map B4.
Claudius Prinsenlaan 8, Transformatorhuis Tel 010-2171717. Ahoy
Breda. Road Map B5. Musis Sacrum Ahoyveg 10, Rotterdam.
Klnneplein 2,
Tel 076-5303032. Velperbuitensingel 25, Road Map B4.
Amsterdam. Map 1 A1. Tel 010-2933810.
Arnhem. Road Map D4.
Compagnietheater Tel 020-5860710.
Tel 026-3720720. Heineken Music Hall
Kloveniersburgwal 50,
Arena Boulevard 590,
Amsterdam. Map 2 D5. Musicals and Muziekgebouw Frits
Philips Amsterdam.
Tel 020-5205310. Cabaret Tel 0900-6874242.
Jan van Lieshoutstraat,
Concordia Eindhoven. De Melkweg
AFAS Circustheater
Oude Markt 15, Enschede. Road Map C5. Lijnbaansgracht 234 a,
Circusstraat 4, The Hague.
Road Map E3. Tel 040-2655600. Amsterdam. Map 4 E2.
Tel 053-4300999. Road Map B4.
TivoliVredenburg Tel 020-5318181.
Tel 0900-1353.
De Flint Vredenburgkade 11, Paradiso
Conickstraat 60, Beatrix Theater Utrecht. Road Map C4. Weteringschans 68,
Amersfoort. Jaarbeursplein 6, Utrecht. Tel 030-2314544. Amsterdam. Map 4 3F.
Road Map C4. Road Map C4. Zuiderstrandtheater Tel 020-6264521.
Tel 033-4229229. Houtrustweg 505, The
Tel 0900-1353.
Hague. Road Map B4. Jazz
Frascati
Boom Chicago Tel 070-8800333.
Nes 63, Amsterdam. Alto Jazz Caf
Map 2 D5. Rozengracht 117, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
Tel 020-6266866. Amsterdam. Map 4 E2. Church Music 115, Amsterdam.
Tel 020-2170400. Domkerk Map 1 B4.
De Harmonie
Domplein, Utrecht. Tel 020-8454380.
Ruiterskwartier 4, Comedy Caf
Road Map C4. Bimhuis
Leeuwarden. IJdok 89, Amsterdam. Tel 030-2310403. Piet Heinkade 3,
Road Map D1. Map 4 E2.
Tel 058-2330233. Engelse Kerk Amsterdam.
Tel 020-7220827. Tel 020-7882188.
Begijnhof 48, Amsterdam.
De Krakeling Map 1 C5.
Nwe Passeerdersstraat 1,
Toomler Bourbon Street
Tel 020-6249665. Leidsekruisstraat 68,
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Breitnerstr. 2, Amsterdam.
Map 3 C5. Grote Kerk Amsterdam. Map 4 2E.
Tel 020-6245123.
Van Kinsbergenstraat, Tel 020-6233440.
Tel 020-6707400.
De la Mar Elburg. Road Map D3. Dizzy
Marnixstraat 402, Tel 0525-681520.
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1.
Dance s-Gravendijkwal 127,
Nieuwe Kerk Rotterdam. Road Map B4.
Tel 0900-3352627.
Rotterdamse Dam, Amsterdam. Map 2 Tel 010-4773014.
Orpheus Schouwburg D5. Tel 020-6386909.
De Engelbewaarder
Churchillplein 1, Schouwburgplein 25, Oude Kerk Kloveniersburgwal 59,
Apeldoorn. Rotterdam. Road Map B4. Oudekerksplein 23, Amsterdam. Map 2 5D.
Road Map D3. Amsterdam. Map 2 D4. Tel 020-6253772.
Tel 010-4118110.
Tel 055-5270300. Tel 020-6258284.
De Heeren van
Stadsschouwburg Schouwburg Arnhem
Waalse Kerk Aemstel
Leidseplein 26, Koningsplein 12, Arnhem. Walenplein 157, Thorbeckeplein 5,
Amsterdam. Map 4 E2. Road Map D4. Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-6242311. Tel 026-4437343. Tel 020-6232074. Tel 020-6202173.
Amusement and Theme Parks

The Netherlands offers a great variety of amusement and
theme parks. Whether you want to see frolicking dolphins,
take a white-knuckle ride, go back to Roman times or spend
the day splashing in a swimming pool, there is something for
everyone. And because the Dutch weather doesnt always
play along, most parks have attractions indoors. Listed below
is a sample of the parks to be found in the country.
One of the rides at the Hellendoorn

Aqua Zoo Friesland working craftsmen. The Adventure Park
This watery domain near hands-on fun includes a trip
Leeuwarden shows beavers, in a prehistoric canoe.
minks, polecats, storks and and Montezumas Revenge
other animals in their natural Het Arsenaal (prepare to get wet!). Younger
surroundings. Otters are A large attraction with a children will enjoy Dreumesland
a highlight here, having maritime theme has been set (Dreamland) with its play castle
disappeared from the up at Het Arsenaal in Vlissingen. and much more.
Netherlands due to pollution First visitors watch a naval
of their freshwater habitat. A review with models of famous Burgers Zoo
path winds its way through ocean liners, including the This unusual park allows you
the entire terrain, leading at Titanic. For those hooked on to see animals from all over
one point through a glass adrenaline there is a shipwreck the world in their natural
tunnel that provides visitors simulator and a scary pirate environments, which have been
with a close-up of the otters cave on a treasure island. In carefully re-created here.
underwater antics. Onderwaterwereld you can In Burgers Desert, in a vast
observe sharks, lobsters and hall with 20-m (65-ft) ceilings,
other creatures of the deep. you can wander through a
Archeon The 64-m (210-ft) tower of Het rocky cactus desert with birds
This open-air archaeological Arsenaal gives a fine view of and an oasis. There is also a
park brings the past to life the Westerschelde estuary. dense tropical jungle and
in captivating fashion. Visitors a safari park with giraffes,
wander from prehistoric times, rhinoceroses and lions. In the
the Roman period and the Avonturenpark ocean section, you can stand
Middle Ages, aided by the Hellendoorn on a tropical coral beach and
re-creations of actors. You This place offers a vast range peer through the glass at an
can see how the hunter- of attractions, including the undersea world.
gatherers lived and how Canadian River log-ride with a
farmers tilled their fields. You 12-m (39-ft) drop in a tree trunk,
then explore a Roman town the Sungai Kalimantan rafting- Dolfinarium
complete with bath-house, ride, the Tornado and Rioolrat Frolicking dolphins and seals
temple and theatre, followed (underground) rat ride, a always draw large crowds, but
by a medieval city with monorail over a dinosaur park the Dolfinarium does one
better with its Lagune, a large
bay where dolphins, sea lions
and fish live. In Fort Heerewich
you learn how stranded
dolphins are cared for. An
underwater show and a 3D film
provide additional excitement.
Duinrell
Nestled in the sandy woodlands
of the Wassenaar region, this
park has rides such as the
Waterspin, toboggan runs,
a frog roller coaster and a
monorail. In summer there are
elaborate shows such as the
Music Laser Light Show. For the
Suspension bridge through the tropical rainforest in Burgers Bush little ones there is a fairytale
wonderland, a large playground If a day isnt enough to explore

and numerous kids shows. the park, you can stay the night
A big draw is the Tikibad, an in Efteling Hotel.
indoor pool with spectacular
slides, a surf pool and a water
ballet show. Linnaeushof
This playground claims to be
EcoMare Europes largest, with more than
Located on the island of Texel, 350 different pieces of equip-
just a few kilometres away from ment, including a super slide,
the pretty village of de Koog, cable rides, a skate-rail, trampo-
EcoMare is a fascinating sealife Visitors enjoying the splash ride lines, a climbing wall, pedaloes
and marine centre dedicated to in Duinrell and 360-degree swings. In the
exploring the flora and fauna of spiders web, you risk tumbling
Texel. It also offers a glimpse which has a caf to unwind in into the water as you climb nets
into the history of the island. and unlimited opportunities to the pirates crows nest.
Among the exhibits, there are for dune walking. Toddlers have their own
seals and porpoises, and a special playground with a huge
good number of giant turtle sandpit and road village where
and humpback whale skeletons De Efteling they can ride tricycles and toy
that were discovered on the This theme park in Kaatsheuvel aeroplanes. For wet weather
island. The road beyond the draws on the world of fantasy. theres an indoor playground.
museum leads to the beach, In the fairytale forest you may
bump into Little Red Riding
Hood, Snow White or Sleeping Noordwijk Space Expo
Beauty. The Fata Morgana is a This sprawling display about
simplified take on the Arabian outer space is a treat for all ages.
Nights; here you can view the Some of its rockets and satellites
entire park from a 45-m (148-ft) are the real thing (as is the piece
Flying Temple. of moon rock 4 billion years old),
Extreme thrills are provided but the replicas, such as a model
by the Python, the Pegasus and lunar module, are convincing.
the underground Vogel Rok You can visit a space station and
roller coasters and many other watch multimedia presentations.
Stranded seals recovering their health in rides. Its worth checking the Children will enjoy the treasure
EcoMare on Texel website for busy days. hunt and zero-gravity simulator.
DIRECTORY
Aqua Zoo Friesland Avonturenpark Duinrell Linnaeushof
De Groene Ster 2, 8926 XE Hellendoorn Duinrell 1, 2242 JP Glipperweg 4c, 2104
Leeuwarden. Road Map Luttenbergerweg 22, Wassenaar. Road Map B4. AK Heemstede. Road
D2. Tel 0511-431214. 7447 PB Hellendoorn. Tel 070-5155255. Map B3. Tel 023-5847624.
Open 10am4pm daily Road Map D3. Tel 0548- Open AprSep: 10am
Open Theme park: Apr
(longer in summer). 659159. Open call ahead. 5pm daily (JunAug:
Oct: 10am5pm daily
aquazoo.nl avonturenpark.nl to 6pm).
(mid-JulAug to 6pm). linnaueshof.nl
Archeon Burgers Zoo duinrell.nl
Archeonlaan 1, 2408 ZB Anton van Hooffplein 1, Noordwijk
Alphen a/d Rijn. 6816 SH Arnhem. EcoMare Space Expo
Road Map B4. Road map D4. Tel 026- Ruyslaan 92, 1796 AZ Keplerlaan 3, 2201
Tel 0172-447744. 4424534. Open AprOct: De Koog, Texel. Road AZ Noordwijk.
Open AprOct: 10am 9am7pm daily; Nov Map B2. Tel 0222-317741. Tel 071-3646489.
Open 10am5pm
5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, Mar: 9am5pm daily. Open 9:30am5pm daily.
TueSun (also Mon
10am4pm Tue, Thu & Fri. burgerszoo.nl ecomare.nl
in school hols).
archeon.nl
Dolfinarium De Efteling spaceexpo.nl
Het Arsenaal Harderwijk Europalaan 1, 5171
Arsenaalplein 7, 4381 BL Strandboulevard Oost 1, KW Kaatsheuvel.
Vlissingen. Road Map A5. 3841 AB Harderwijk. Road Map C4. Tel 0416-
Tel 0118-415400. Road Map C3. Tel 0341-
537777. Open AprOct:
467467 Open mid-Feb
Open AprOct: 10am 10am6pm daily (later in
Jun & SepOct: 10am
7pm daily; mid-FebMar: 5pm daily; JulAug: summer). Winter Efteling:
timings vary, call ahead. 10am6pm daily. open around Christmas.
arsenaal.com dolfinarium.nl efteling.com
Sports Holidays
With its abundance of water, the Netherlands lends itself to all
kinds of watersports such as boating, sailing and canoeing;
however, there are also plenty of opportunities for sporting
activities on dry land, whether you want to kick a ball about
or play golf or tennis, or even go riding. Most VVV-gidsen
(see p432) tell you where there are golf courses and tennis
courts in the locality, and they give the addresses of angling
clubs, stables, boatyards, sailing schools and so on.
Ramblers in the Heuvelrug
in Utrecht
are also used by
many people. Canoeing is another popular
You can obtain watersport in the Netherlands.
information on Dozens of round trips in various
sailing and surfing craft organized in lakes, rivers
organizations at and the sea are also available.
institutions such The local VVV tourist office will
as the Commissie be able to direct you further.
Watersport
Canoeists enjoying themselves on the water Opleidingen
(watersports training Rambling and Cycling
Watersports commission) and the ANWB. Ramblers guides and maps can
The favourite places in the Surfers will find plenty to do on be obtained in many places,
Netherlands for watersports are the North Sea and IJsselmeer including the VVV, ANWB and
the Frisian seas, the coastal coast (surfing beaches, equip bookshops. The VVV also
lakes, the Plassengebied ment hire), and it is also possible provides information on
(lakelands), the southwest river to surf on many inland waters, walking tours and local events.
delta, and the lakes of the including the Reenwijkse The Er op Uit! booklet published
Vechtplassen, the Maasplassen, Plassen, the Randmeren and by the Dutch Railways contains
the IJsselmeer and, of course, the Frisian lakes. For further rambling routes from one
the North Sea. Everywhere there information on sailing, boating station to another. The majority
are abundant marinas and and windsurfing, ask at the of them are 15 to 20 km (9 to 12
watersports centres, often with Koninklijk Nederlands miles), though some twoday
equipment for hire. The ANWB Watersport Verbond (royal hikes are also described. You will
publishes the Wateralmanakken, watersports association). find route maps at the station
available at ANWB and VVV Good places for diving include where the hike begins. Around
offices and in bookshops, the Oosterschelde and 30 longdistance hiking trails
which give details of sailing Grevelingenmeer; for more have been marked out in the
regulations, bridge and lock information apply to the Netherlands. These routes,
opening times, port information Dutch underwatersports which are at least 100 km (62
and so on. The ANWB/VVV association, the Nederlandse miles) in length, follow mainly
waterkaarten (navigation charts) Onderwatersport Bond. unmetalled tracks. A popular
Sailing
Sailing courses suitable for all ages and experience levels are widely available along the Dutch
coast for practically all types of vessel. Taking lessons at a CWO registered sailing school will
give you an internationally recognized CWO sailing certificate. More experienced sailors
can explore the North Sea, the IJsselmeer (watch out for strong winds), the Waddenzee
(where you have to watch the shallows) or the Westerschelde (which has strong
tidal currents). However, you can
also go for a more relaxing
experience on the Vinkeveense
Plassen lakes. Cruises are also
widely available. Hollands
Glorie (tel. 0104156600)
offers cruises on traditional
sailing craft on waterways
such as the IJsselmeer, the
Waddenzee and the Frisian lakes.
Yachting on the Oosterschelde Sailing dinghy
S P O R T S H O L I D AY S 429
DIRECTORY
Watersports
Commissie Watersport
Opleidingen (CWO)
t Breukeleveensemeentje 4,
1231 LM Loosdrecht.
Tel 085-4015966.
Koninklijk Nederlands
Watersport Verbond
Wattbaan 31-49, 3439 ML
Nieuwegein.
Tel 030-7513700.
Nederlandse Onder
Golfers on the Lauswolt Estate in Friesland watersport Bond
Landjuweel 62,
hiking trail is the Pieterpad Fishing 3905 PH Veenendaal.
(LAW 9), stretching 480 km Fishing is a popular sport in Tel 0318-559347.
(300 miles) from Pieterburen the Netherlands. In the inland
in Groningen to the Sint- waterways you can angle for Rambling and Cycling
Pietersberg at Maastricht. bream, carp and pike, while Cycletours
Wandelplatform-LAW flatfish and mackerel can be Gyroscoopweg 104, 1042 AX
publishes guides to the routes, caught along the coast and in Amsterdam.
with and without accommo- the sea. Local angling associ- Tel 020-5218400.
dation details. Many natural areas ations will give you
are criss-crossed by footpaths information on when and Fietsvakantiewinkel
and cycle tracks, among them where to fish. Dont forget to fietsvkantiewinkel.nl
the Nationaal Park De Hoge obtain a fishing permit (which Koninklijke Wandel Bond
Veluwe (see p343). You can find is compulsory for inland Nederland (KWBN)
out about accessibility of various waters). The permits are PO Box 1020, 6501 BA Nijmegen.
areas and about enjoyable available at VVVs or angling Tel 024-3655575.
routes or excursions at VVV or associations. Sometimes you
NTFU
ANWB tourist information offices, also need a permit for a Postbus 326,
at the Staatsbosbeheer (forestry particular lake or river. Along 3900 AH Veenendaal.
commission) (www.staats- the coast, angling trips are Tel 0318-581300.
bosbeheer.nl) or the Vereniging organized on the North Sea
Natuurmonumenten (see p264). and in the Waddenzee. Stichting Landelijk
For details on cycling, see Fietsplatform
pages 4489. Postbus 846, 3800 AV Amersfoort.
Horse Riding Tel 033-4653656.
There are many stables WandelplatformLAW
Golf and Tennis where you can hire ponies Postbus 846, 3800 AV Amersfoort.
The Netherlands has some 160 for pony-trekking. Some Tel 033-4653660.
golfing clubs, all members of stables hire out horses only wandelnet.nl
the Nederlandse Golf Federatie if you have a riding permit or
(NGF). Many clubs also provide if you are on a guided tour Golf
opportunities for (information is
NGF
non-members to available from the
Postbus 8585, 3503 RN Utrecht.
play, although SVR). For some
Tel 030-2426370.
some may require nature reserves
proof of golfing which allow Fishing
proficiency. Many riding you will
of them also offer Riding on Ameland need to get a Sportvisserij Nederland
training courses. riding permit Postbus 162, 3720 AD Bilthoven.
Golf courses from the organization Tel 030-6058400.
in the Netherlands are in managing the area, and sportvisserijnederland.nl
dunelands, woodland you will have to keep to the
and polderland. bridleways. Beach riding is an Horse Riding
In many areas you will find unforgettable experience, SVR
tennis clubs with outdoor and but keep an eye on the signs, De Beek 125, 3852 PL Ermelo.
indoor courts. Most bungalow because some sections of Tel 088-0224399.
parks have tennis courts for beach especially in summer veiligpaardrijden.nl
the use of residents. are closed to horses.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 432441

Travel Information 442449
432 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The Netherlands is relatively small and has a dykes means that holidaymakers have plenty
dense road and motorway network, with of opportunity to explore the countryside by
good public transport, so getting around is bicycle (see pp4489) or by boat (see p447).
quick and easy. Whether you are going to Another option is to take a trip by steam
Amsterdam, the Veluwe, Maastricht or train. The best place to find out whats
Zandvoort, you can get there from anywhere available in your area and in the
in the country very quickly by car or by train. country as a whole is the local VVV
The flat landscape with its many canals and (tourist information) office.
Entertainment
Many VVV-gidsen guides have
an annual review of events
in a particular region or
province. For up-to-date
information on events,
exhibitions, performances
and films, it is worth looking
in the entertainment
supplements issued by
daily papers, or ask at the
local VVV office. Plays,
concerts, special events
and festivals are usually
advertised on billboards or
VVV and ANWB offices, which often share the same premises in cafs. Special regional and
local entertainment guides
Tourist Information and motoring guides, tickets, are also a good source of
The best source of information camping guides and road information; for example,
for tourists is the local or atlases. ANWB members have the monthly Uitkrant tells
regional VVV office. Many access to specialized you whats on in Amsterdam
towns and places of interest membership information in the way of the performing
have VVV offices where you about various subjects and arts, while the weekly Uitloper
can drop in and ask for advice holiday offers. In many cases is Utrechts entertainment
and brochures about the VVV and the guide. These guides are
places of interest, ANWB share the distributed at many sites
local events, same premises. free of charge.
walks, cycle If you are travel- Tickets for concerts and
routes and ANWB logo ling to the events are available not
excursions in the Netherlands only at the box office of
town or region. In addition, from abroad you can obtain the venue itself but also
they can provide maps and information in advance from via the national Ticket
books about other parts of the the Netherlands Board of Service and at VVV offices.
Netherlands. The VVV-gidsen Tourism (NBT) in your Some towns also have their
series in Dutch is very practical, own country. own booking bureau; for
with information and facts instance, in Amsterdam you
about individual provinces can book your tickets at the
and regions. Language AUB (see p150).
At VVVs you can also book The Dutch have been linguists
domestic excursions, hotels, for centuries, and most students
short breaks and theatre tickets learn English, some German and
anywhere in the country. French. English is certainly very
Annual museum cards and CJPs widely and fluently spoken in
are also on sale here. Smaller Amsterdam. However, its always
VVV outlets, although providing appreciated if you can handle a
comprehensive information few niceties: greeting a Dutch
about their local area, do not person with Dag (good day),
provide other services. for example, before asking
ANWB offices in the whether they speak English. The
Netherlands also have a Phrase Book on pages 4712 is a Revellers at a music festival
selection of cycling, rambling useful place to start. in Amsterdam
The canal with the Old Church Tower of Delft in the background
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 433
In Amsterdam and other major Opening Hours

cities, all main pedestrian Although until recently just
crossings are equipped with about every shop in the
sound for the blind. For country was open from 9am
disabled people travelling by to 6pm, today there is an
train, the NS has issued a pack increasing variety in shop
entitled Gehandicapten. This opening hours. Many retail
The Museum Card allowing entry to a contains information on Dutch stores and supermarkets are
majority of museums railway stations and what open until 7pm or later. In the
facilities they have, and also cities, shops tend to stay open
Museum Card lists the stations (there are longer. Many towns have a
The Annual Museum Card approximately 150 of them) shopping evening
(Museumjaarkaart) has where people in wheelchairs (koopavond) once a week,
quickly risen to huge can get assistance when when most shops remain
popularity. It costs 59.90 for boarding and alighting from open until 9pm: Thursday in
people over the age of 18, trains. Many trains have Amsterdam and The Hague,
and 32.45 for under-18s. It wheelchair-accessible doors, Friday in Utrecht. In an
gives the holder free entry to and most new double-decker increasing number of towns
over 400 museums in the trains have wheelchair- shops open on Sundays at
country. However, you often accessible toilets. If you least once in the month. Many
have to pay a supplement need help, its best to shops have half-day closing
for special exhibitions. The contact the Bureau one day a week, usually
card is available at all Assistentieverlening Monday, but varying from
participating museums Gehandicapten at least one region to another.
and at VVVs. It can also be three hours before travelling. Banks are usually open on
ordered online from www. weekdays from 9am to 5pm,
museumkaart.nl. and VVVs are also open on
Mondays to Fridays from 9am
or 10am to 5pm (sometimes
Travellers with on koopavond until 9pm). On
Disabilities Saturdays they close early or
Most public buildings have even all day, and most are
good facilities for travellers closed on Sundays. Some VVVs
with disabilities. Museums, art are closed during the winter.
galleries, cinemas and theatres Many museums are shut
generally are wheelchair- on Mondays, and open from
accessible. Only some 10am to 5pm for the rest of
establishments in very old the week. On Sundays and
buildings are less accessible, public holidays they tend
but there are always staff who to open later. Practically all
are able to lend a hand. If you museums are closed on
require assistance its a good Christmas and New Years
idea to phone in advance. Day. Open-air museums
Accessibility information for Assistance to travellers with disabilities at and small museums tend
hotels is given on page 390. wheelchair-accessible tourist office to close for the winter.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Netherland Board VVV Utrecht Travellers with
Information of Tourism Domplein 9. Disabilities
PO Box 63470, 2502 JL Tel 030-2360004. Bureau Assistentie-
ANWB Main Office The Hague.
verlening
Tel 070-370 5705.
Wassenaarseweg 220, Entertainment Gehandicapten
holland.com
2596 EC avg.ns.nl
The Hague. VVV The Hague Ticket Service
Spui 68. Tel 070-3618860. Tel 0900-3001250.
Tel 088-2692222.
VVV Maastricht ticketmaster.nl
I Amsterdam Kleine Staat 1.
Museum Card
Visitor Centre Tel 043-3252121.
Stationsplein 10, 1012 AB
VVV Rotterdam Stichting
Amsterdam. Coolsingel 195. Museumjaarkaart
Tel 020-7026000. Tel 010-7900185. museumkaart.nl
434 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Tipping
Taxi drivers expect a tip of
around 10 per cent. Although
a service charge is included on
restaurant bills, it is customary
to round the bill up slightly
(see p403).
In hotels you may if you
like leave something for the
chambermaid after a longer
stay, even though it is not
generally the rule.
Flower seeds and bulbs, freely exported items (with certificate)

Public Toilets
Visas and Customs the Customs Helpline There is a limited number of
Travellers from other EU (Douanetelefoon), which gives public conveniences in the
countries can travel freely in precise information on Netherlands. In some cities
and out of the Netherlands customs regulations. Travellers you will find toilets where you
provided they have a valid from outside the Netherlands have to insert money into a
passport or European identity may be able to obtain infor- slot to open the door. Popping
card. For a stay lasting up to mation at their local embassy. into a caf to use the toilets
three months, travellers from there is accepted practice in
Australia, New Zealand and the Netherlands; some
North America need only a Travel Safety Advice establishments have an
valid passport. Visitors can get up-to-date travel attendant who should be
EU residents may bring an safety information from the paid a small amount. Large
unlimited quantity of goods Foreign and Commonwealth retail stores and stations also
into the country provided they Office in the UK, the State have toilets, and you generally
are for their personal use. For Department in the US and the need to pay a small fee to use
tobacco and alcohol, the Department of Foreign Affairs these. The latter also have
following quantities are and Trade in Australia. nappy-changing facilities.
considered limits for personal On motorways you will find
use: 800 cigarettes, 400 cigars, toilets at all service stations.
1 kg of tobacco, 10 litres of Time
spirits, 20 litres of liqueurs, 90 Like all its neighbouring
litres of wine (or 60 litres of countries, the Netherlands Electricity
fortified wine) and 110 litres of is on Central European Time, In the Netherlands the electrical
beer. Duty will be charged on which is 1 hour ahead of voltage is 220 volts AC. Dutch
quantities exceeding these Greenwich Mean Time. Day- plugs are of the two-pin type,
specified limits. light saving (1 hour) operates and adapters are available for
For travellers from outside from the end of March to the visitors from countries with
the EU, the limits are 200 end of October. different plugs (for example,
cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 Sydney is 8 hours ahead, Great Britain).
cigars or 250 g of tobacco, Johannesburg 1 hour (the
2 litres of unfortified wine plus same as the Netherlands),
1 litre of spirits or 2 litres of New York is 6 hours behind and Television and Radio
fortified wine or liqueur wine Los Angeles 9 hours behind. The television programmes
or spirits, 50 g of on offer in the Netherlands
perfume, 0.25l of are undergoing a great deal
eau de toilette and of development at the
other items up to a moment. The traditional
value of 175. system was to have a large
Residents of other number of broadcasting
EU countries may no networks, each with their
longer import goods own political or religious
on which VAT has leanings, being given a certain
not been paid. If you amount of air-time on each
are entering or of the three public TV stations
leaving the EU, you (Nederland 1, 2 and 3).
can take non-VAT- More recently, however,
paid goods with commercial television stations
you. More details have emerged to compete
are available from Customers showing their appreciation with a tip with Hilversum (the town
where the Netherlands main evening papers (Het Parool and

networks are based, (see p195). NRC Handelsblad). These tend
As well as national TV to focus on the west of the
networks, the Netherlands has country. Regionally, the more
a number of regional and local popular papers are the
providers, such as Omrop Nieuwsblad van het Noorden,
Frysln, Omroep Flevoland, Friesch Dagblad, Tubantia,
Omroep Gelderland and the De Gelderlander, Utrechts
Amsterdam local network AT5. Nieuwsblad, Provinciale
In addition, large numbers of Zeeuwsche Courant, Brabants
foreign programmes can be Dagblad and Dagblad De
received on cable TV, the Limburger, which contain
range varying depending on information on local holiday
the local cable company. activities and events. The more
The Netherlands has five famous Dutch weekly news
national radio stations, each magazines include HP/De Tijd,
of them with their own Elsevier and Vrij Nederland.
personality: Radio 1 deals The major bookshops in the
mainly with current affairs large cities (as well as the main A selection of national and international
and sport, Radio 2 broadcasts railway stations) sell many newspapers available
light music and various major international newspapers
information programmes, and magazines. Embassies and Consulates
Radio 3 rock and pop and If you are visiting from abroad
Radio 4 classical music. 747 and your passport gets lost or
AM is a news channel. Pets stolen, you should report it
If you bring your dog or cat to immediately either to your
the Netherlands from abroad, consulate or embassy. Most
Newspapers and you need to be able to prove embassies are situated in the
Magazines that your pet has been immun- administrative capital, The
The Netherlands has five ized against rabies. This is Hague. A number of countries,
national morning newspapers shown by a valid pets passport including the UK, USA, France,
(De Telegraaf, de Volkskrant, provided by your veterinarian Germany and Italy, also have
Algemeen Dagblad, NRC Next which indicates when the consulates, which tend to be
and Trouw) and two national animal was last vaccinated. located in Amsterdam.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Germany New Zealand Customs Helpline
Consulates Embassy: Embassy: Eisenhowerlaan
Tel 0800-0143.
Groot Hertoginnelaan 77N, 2517 KK The Hague.
Australia Open 8am8pm Mon
1820, 2517 EG The Hague. Tel 070-3469324.
Embassy: Carnegielaan 4, Thu, 8am5pm Fri.
Tel 070-3420600. Fax 070-3632983.
2517 KH The Hague.
niederlande.diplo.de nzembassy.com/ Travel Safety
Tel 070-3108200.
netherlands.
Consulate: netherlands Advice
Honthorststraat 3638,
embassy.gov.au South Africa Australia
1071 DG Amsterdam.
Embassy: Wassenaarseweg dfat.gov.au
Belgium Tel 020-5747700.
40, 2596 CJ The Hague. smartraveller.gov.au
Embassy: Johan van United Kingdom
Oldenbarneveltlaan 11, Tel 070-3924501. United Kingdom
Embassy:
2582 NE The Hague. zuidafrika.nl gov.uk/foreign-
Lange Voorhout 10,
Tel 070-3123456. travel-advice
2514 ED The Hague. United States
Canada Tel 070-4270427. Embassy: Lange Voorhout United States
ukinnl.fco.gov.uk 102, 2514 EJ The Hague. travel.state.gov
Embassy: Sophialaan 7,
2514 JP The Hague. Consulate General: Tel 070-3102209.
Tel 070-3111600. Koningslaan 44, thehague.
canada.nl 1075 AE Amsterdam. usembassy.gov
Tel 020-6764343. Consulate: Museumplein
France
Embassy: Anna Ireland 19, 1071 DJ Amsterdam.
Paulownastraat 76, Embassy: Tel 020-5755309.
2518 BJ The Hague. Scheveningseweg 112, Fax 020-5755310.
Tel 070-3125800. 2584 AE The Hague. amsterdam.
ambafrance-nl.org Tel 070-3630993/4. usconsulate.gov
436 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health Medical Treatment

and Insurance
If you keep to a few basic safety rules, you should have a Minor medical problems
trouble-free stay in the Netherlands. Obviously, it is better can usually be dealt with at
not to carry large amounts of cash or valuables around, a pharmacy, though the
prescription of drugs is very
and not to keep passports, cheques and credit cards strict. The majority of drugs
together in one place. Visitors from abroad can always are available only on
insure themselves against losses of money and personal prescription. Pharmacies
items from theft. It is also a good idea to insure yourself which are recognizable by
against medical expenses. For those who do find their snake symbol are open
on weekdays from 8:30 or
themselves in trouble on holiday, the country has efficient
9am to 5:30 or 6pm.
emergency services and facilities. If the pharmacy is closed, you
will find on the door a list of the
nearest pharmacies that are
Emergencies areas and parks. Women can open. Local newspapers also
The national emergency visit cafs in the evening give details of duty doctors,
number for the police, fire without risk. pharmacies and other health
brigade and ambulance is 112. services in the town or region.
This number must only be In an emergency you can get
dialled in emergencies. For Reporting Crime treatment in hospitals, which
less urgent help, it is best to If you have been the victim are open 24 hours a day.
contact the nearest police of theft or a mugging, Visitors from abroad who will
station, hospital or a local report it to the nearest be carrying prescription drugs
doctor. If your car police station (some with them should ask their
breaks down, smaller municipalities do doctor for a medical passport.
members of the not have their own This is a document stating your
ANWB can call police station). You condition and the medication
out the roadside will need to make you require for it. The passport
assistance service a verbal report can be shown at the customs
of the ANWB describing any loss as evidence that you are
Wegenwacht 24 and, if necessary, bringing the medication in for
hours a day, 7 days injury. Many insurance your personal use.
a week, using the companies require Travellers from European
roadside emergency you to report within Union countries should apply
phones or by 24 hours of the for and take with them a
dialling a toll-free incident taking European Health Insurance
phone number. Dutch police officers place. If your Card (EHIC). You can do this
passport is stolen, you online or at post offices in
should immediately report the UK before you leave. It
Personal Belongings this to your embassy (see p435) will enable you to claim for
and Safety as well as to the police. state health service treatment
It is as true of the Netherlands
as elsewhere in Europe that
opportunity makes the thief.
When in busy shopping
streets or on public transport,
do not leave your wallet in
your back pocket, and if you
need to go to the lavatory
on the train or when in a
restaurant, take your handbag
or wallet with you. Do not Fire engine
leave any valuables in
your car, and always make
sure it has been properly
locked. Large cities,
particularly Amsterdam,
have a big problem with Police car
bicycle theft, so a decent
lock is a good investment.
Muggings are rare, but at
night it is better to avoid unlit Ambulance
in EU countries. It is also a
good idea to purchase
comprehensive medical
insurance if it is not included
in your travel insurance.
Mosquitoes
Attracted by the canals,
mosquitoes can be a real
irritant. Residents and regular
summer visitors deal with them
in various ways. Burning coils,
ultra-violet tubes, mosquito
nets, repellent sprays and anti-
histamine creams and tablets
are available from large A crowded street festival: a place to be wary of pickpockets
pharmacies and supermarkets.
inform the station first. Small vervoer (public transport) in
stations keep lost property for the Yellow Pages). Schiphol
Lost Property one day. After that they are Airport has a special lost
If you lose any valuables, taken to the nearest main property number.
you can check at the station, and finally to the
police station to see Central Lost Property
whether anyone has Office (Centraal Bureau Drugs
handed them in. Local Gevonden Voorwerpen) in Although the use of soft drugs
police stations usually Utrecht. By filling in a is officially illegal in the
keep articles that have search form (available at Netherlands, the police will not
been handed in before railway stations), you can take action if you have a small
passing them on to describe the items you quantity of hashish or marijuana
the central police Emergency have lost. If you lose in your possession. It is worth
station for the district. room sign something on a bus, remembering that not every
If you lose your passport tram or metro, you restaurant or caf owner will take
you must also inform your should contact the office of the kindly to tourists lighting up on
consulate (see p435) or embassy. local or regional transport the premises. People caught with
If you lose something on a train, organization (look for openbaar hard drugs will be prosecuted.
DIRECTORY
Emergency Hospitals in The Hague: Schiphol Lost
Numbers Major Cities Bronovo Hospital Property
Bronovolaan 5. Tel 0900-0141/020-
Ambulance, Fire Amsterdam: Tel 070-3124141. 7940800.
Brigade, Police Academisch Medisch
MCH Hospital
Tel 112. (for the deaf Centrum Westeinde
Roadside
and hard of hearing) Meibergdreef 9. Lijnbaan 32.
Assistance
Tel 0800-8112. Tel 020-5669111. Tel 070-3302000. ANWB Wegenwacht
OLVG, Locatie West Rotterdam: Erasmus Tel 088-269-2888
Safety
Jan Tooropstraat 164. Medisch Centrum (toll-free).
Police Tel 020-5108911. s-Gravendijkwal 230,
Non-urgent matters: 3015 CE Rotterdam.
Onze Lieve Vrouwe
Tel 0900-8844 Tel 010-7040704
Gasthuis (OLVG)
(you will be connected Utrecht:
Oosterpark 9, 1091 AC
to the nearest police Academisch Hospital
Amsterdam.
station). For the deaf and Utrecht
Tel 020-5999111.
hard of hearing Heidelberglaan 100.
Tel 0900-1844. Slotervaart Tel 088-7555555.
Police Amsterdam- Hospital
Amstelland Louwesweg 6. Lost Property
Tel 020-5129333.
Head office: Central Lost
Elandsgracht 117, VU Medisch Centrum Property Office
1016 TT Amsterdam. De Boelelaan 1117. verlorenof
Tel 0900-8844. Tel 020-4444444. gevonden.nl
438 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Local Currency

In the Netherlands, cash remains a popular means of
payment, but credit cards and debit cards are now the norm.
Almost all hotels, shops and restaurants accept major credit
cards in payment. Other means of payment are travellers
cheques (with identification), and, occasionally, US dollars
(particularly at antique and souvenir shops). In 2002, the
Netherlands began to use the euro. The best place to change
money is at a bank. You can take an unlimited amount of
currency into the Netherlands, and you can withdraw limited
amounts of cash at an ATM. ATMs can be found outside post offices,
banks and GWK offices
Bank Opening Hours These bureaux can still be found card or chipknip/chipper (top-up
Banks are generally open on at the now unguarded border cards available from Dutch
Mondays to Fridays from 9am crossing points, at Amsterdam banks or the Postbank). Most
to 4 or 5pm. Some banks Schiphol Airport and at major payphones (see p440) accept
remain open longer on railway stations. Most GWK credit cards for calls.
koopavond, or shopping bureaux are open daily and All major credit cards
evening, often a Thursday. have extended opening hours. are widely accepted in the
Netherlands and, as elsewhere in
Europe, have superseded many
cash transactions, even though
the Dutch have proved to be a
little reluctant to abandon cash
as compared to, for example, the
British. Almost all hotels and
hostels gladly accept credit card
payments, but the position is
more varied in restaurants. Clarify
the situation before the bill
arrives. It is normal to pay cash in
bars, and taxi drivers would also
not want to receive credit card
payments. One advantage of
using a credit card is that if a
purchase is contested, the credit
GWK (grenswisselkantoor), the Netherlands official exchange bureau card company will usually take
up the matter on your behalf.
Changing Money Bank and Credit Cards Depending on the credit card,
Foreign currency can be You can use your bank card to there are generally some
changed at banks, post offices withdraw money at any Dutch attached insurances as well.
and American Express offices. A bank displaying your cards logo,
small commission is sometimes but usually there is a substantial
charged on these transactions. commission charge. You can The History of
In small bureaux de change also use bank cards to withdraw Dutch Currency
(often open outside business cash at ATMs 24 hours a day. Before the introduction of the
hours), located throughout the These machines usually also guilder, the Dutch national
major cities and in larger towns, accept Eurocard/MasterCard, currency unit before the euro,
you can exchange money from American Express, Diners Club duiten, stuivers, rijders, schellings
non-Eurozone countries, though and Visa cards. When a foreign and ducats made out of various
often at unfavourable rates. card is inserted, most ATMs will metals were used. Until 1847,
The Netherlands official offer a choice of languages, and there was a double standard
bureaux de change, GWK so should be simple to use. where the value of the coin was
(grenswisselkantoor), is a ATMs are plentiful and can be equal to the value of the gold or
privatized state enterprise, found outside post offices, silver in it. Silver coins were
which gives reasonable rates banks and GWK offices, and minted until 1967, when nickel
of exchange and charges within main railway stations. or bronze coins were minted.
relatively low commissions, as Shops, restaurants and hotels Gold and silver coins from
well as providing various other post signs stating whether you earlier centuries are now
services for travellers. can pay by credit card, switch valuable collectors items.
The Euro members using the euro as sole of architectural structures and
The euro () is the common official currency are known as the monuments. The coins, however,
currency of the European Union Eurozone. A number of EU have one side identical (the value
(EU). It went into general members have opted out of side) and one side with an image
circulation on 1 January 2002, joining this common currency. unique to each country. Both
initially for 12 participating Euro notes are identical notes and coins are exchangeable
countries. The Netherlands was throughout the Eurozone in each of the participating
one of those 12 countries. EU countries, each including designs euro countries.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven denom
inations. The 5 note (grey in colour) is
the smallest, followed by the 10 note
(pink), 20 note (blue), 50 note
(orange), 100 note (green), 200 note
(yellow) and 500 note (purple).
All notes show the 12 stars of the
European Union. Not all businesses
in the Netherlands accept the 200 5 note
and 500 notes.
10 note
20 note
50 note
100 note
200 note
500 note
2 coin 1 coin
50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: 2 and 1;
50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The 2 and 1 coins are silver and gold in
colour; cent coins are gold or bronze. Prices are
rounded off to the nearest 5 cents; the 2 and
1cent coins are no longer in use. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
440 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications Finding the Right

Before 1989, telephone and postal services in the Number
Netherlands were part of the same state-run company, Directory enquiries for
PTT. This has now been separated into two companies phone and fax numbers in
KPN Telecom and TNT Post. For some years, Telfort Holland: dial 0900-8008 or
118 (only one number per
public telephones have also been appearing beside the call on either service).
KPN boxes. The Telfort telephones are mostly found at Directory enquiries for
train stations. phone and fax numbers
abroad: dial 0900-8418, or
visit www.detelefoon gids.nl.
Using the Telephone at post offices, tobacconists, National or international
You will find the green KPN train stations and department calls through the operator:
dial 0800-0410.
telephone kiosks in the streets, stores, as well as at the GWK,
Collect calls in Holland or
in post offices and outside and come in various
abroad: dial 0800-0101.
many railway stations. Most denominations. National dialling codes are:
KPN telephone kiosks take At train stations you will Australia 61, New Zealand
both phonecards and most often find Telfort phone boxes, 64, South Africa 27, the
major credit cards (the logo painted blue and orange. United Kingdom 44, and
on the telephone will tell These accept Telfort the USA and Canada 1.
you which credit cards are phonecards, available at ticket
accepted). If you use a credit windows and in the Wizzl
card, you need to remove it station shops and also at the Hotspots gives Internet access
from the slot before speaking GWK. Telfort phones also for smart phones; send an SMS
(phonecards are only removed accept coins (10, 20 and 50 to: HOTSPOTS, number 4222
when you have finished your cent, 1 and 2) but do not and you can log on for 15
call), and you have to pay a give change, credit cards minutes for a small fee, which
surcharge of 1.15. In KPN (with a 1.15 surcharge) is charged to your phone.
booths, locals can also use and special kiosk-cards.
their bank or giro card to make Instructions on how to use
phone calls, if these are fitted KPN and Telfort telephones
with a chipper or chipknip can be found in the booths
(which means you can top in Dutch, English and other
them up). ANWB members west European languages.
can also use KPN telephone
kiosks to call the roadside
assistance patrol (see p445). Mobile Phones
There are no longer any Mobile network coverage
solely coin-operated in the Netherlands is excellent
payphones. KPN phone boxes and works on the 900/1800
accept only KPN phone-cards MHz band. If necessary,
or special kiosk-cards, available contact your service provider
at some train stations. KPN for further information. Colourful selection of Dutch
phonecards can be purchased Check your insurance policy pictorial phonecards
to see if you are covered
in case your phone gets Phoning Abroad
stolen, and keep your From the Netherlands you
network operators helpline can direct-dial almost all
number handy. destinations abroad. First
To use your mobile phone you need to dial the
abroad, you may need to international number 00,
enable the roaming function followed by the country
on it. It is also more expensive number, and then the local
to make and receive calls number without the first digit
while abroad, although (usually a 0), and finally the
roaming charges are due to individual number. Many
be abolished within the EU country codes are listed in
in 2017. A cheaper option telephone booths. Telephone
is often to purchase a local directories have more detailed
SIM card to use in your lists. Directories for the whole
phone. You can only do of the country are available.
Storefront of an Amsterdam this if your handset is sim Calls made from hotel rooms
telephone shop free or unlocked. KPN are usually expensive.
TNT has closed many of

the larger post offices and
opened many smaller
concerns inside shopping
malls and shops.
Sending Mail
Most TNT postboxes have
two slots. The right slot is
for local mail (post codes
are given above the slot),
the left one is for other
destinations. A sign on the
Internet access at OBA (Amsterdam Public Library) box indicates when the mail
is collected (a red sign means
Internet in English about cultural 5pm or 6pm, a blue board
Faster than a letter and events in the city, plus useful means 7pm). There is no
cheaper than a phone call, information on things like Saturday mail collection.
sending and receiving email doctors and dentists. It also Postcards and letters
has never been easier or has information for expats weighing less than 20 g
more convenient. As most living in the city. Time Out (1 oz) cost 0.73 (or one
people in the Netherlands Amsterdam is a monthly Nederland 1 stamp) to
have either ADSL or a cable listings magazine, also in send to destinations within
connection at home, the English, aimed at tourists the Netherlands; those
number of internet cafs has and available from newsagents sent to European destinations
decreased. Also, more and in the city centre of the capital. cost 1.25, or one
more hotels offer Wi-Fi for Apart from comprehensive International 1 stamp;
guests with laptops, and listings about whats on, it also these new standard stamps
while this is not always free, offers reviews and features. are widely available in small
rates for internet use have shops, for example those
fallen dramatically over the selling postcards. For heavier
last decade. It is better to Postal Services letters or to post to other
check before using Wi-Fi to Post offices in the Netherlands parts of the world, visit a
avoid ending up paying a can be recognized by the TNT post office but be prepared
heavy bill. logo. In addition to buying for queues. Most post offices
However, in most tourist stamps, sending telegrams are open from 9am to 5pm
areas youll still find plenty of and sending mail, you can also weekdays; some also open
places to read and send email. change money and travellers on Saturdays until 1pm.
Most are bars, cafs and coffee cheques, make phone calls Postcards and letters
(smoking) shops, offering PCs and send faxes. Larger post weighing less than 20 g
with internet services. offices also have photocopy (1 oz) to destinations within
Opening hours vary, but cafs services and sell stationery. Europe are sent by priority
are often open late into the Smaller municipalities some- mail. For other international
night. Not all offer headsets, so times have only a sub post mail which you want to
using Skype or other VoIPs to office (in a supermarket, for send priority, pay extra for
make cheap phone calls is not example), providing basic a priority sticker at the post
always possible. services. There are no longer office. Important documents
A recent development is post offices in most villages. may be sent by insured or
modern and trendy coffee registered mail. Urgent
bar franchises, like Coffee mail can be sent by TNTs
Company and Bagel and Slot for all other courier service.
destinations Slot for
Beans, offering Wi-Fi for
local destinations
customers who bring their DIRECTORY
laptop. You either buy minutes
or go online for a limited TNT
time for each beverage you Tel 0800-1234 (customer
order, using the code on your service for domestic and
receipt to gain access. international deliveries).
Visitors to Amsterdam will tnt.com/express/nl_nl/
find www.iamsterdam.com
site/home.html
worth a look. Financed by
Amsterdam city council, it
offers listings and reviews Dutch TNT postbox
442 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Almost every major European airport has served by international trains, including the
direct flights to Schiphol, but this modern Thalys, the high-speed train from Paris.
international airport southwest of The countrys comprehensive road
Amsterdam also has direct connections network makes the Netherlands ideal for
with other airports around the world, exploring by car or by public transport
including many in the United States. The (see pp4467). Many packages and special-
Netherlands also has efficient rail links with interest holidays are on offer, so its worth
neighbouring countries. Major stations are shopping around.
By Air Detroit and Washington,

Schiphol airport handles Delta Air Lines from Atlanta
some 175,000 flights a year and New York (JFK) and
by many international carriers. United Airlines from Newark.
To increase this volume There are many flights a day
further, there are serious from the UK and the Irish
plans to expand the airport. Republic. Low-cost airline
KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) easyJet serves Amsterdam
and its airline partners have from London, Luton and
flights to Amsterdam from several other British cities.
over 350 cities worldwide. To get the lowest fare,
Northwest Airlines offers generally you must book
Car-hire counter at Schiphol non-stop flights from Boston, well in advance.
Schiphol Airport
Schiphol has only one terminal. The airport signs are colour-coded,
with yellow signs indicating transfer desks and gates, green ones
amenities such as coffee bars, restaurants and shops. At Schiphol Plaza
you can find shops, book hotels, hire a car or buy a railway ticket.
See Buy Fly
Beneath it are the platforms of Schiphol railway station. From the car
duty-free shops
park there are transfer buses to take you to the terminal. The long-stay
car park is served by an automatic bus, the Parking Hopper, that takes Bar
F2/F9
you to the transfer bus. Gate E
Lounge Centre
See Buy Fly

duty-free shops Bar
Gate F
Lounge West
Gate G
Departures
Departures Railway tickets
Gate E
To the trains
Arrivals
Gate F
Hotel
reservations Arrivals
Gate G
SCHIPHOL
PLAZA
0 metres 100
0 yards 100 Car hire Meeting point

Taxis
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 443
Getting to and
from Schiphol
Every major city in the
Netherlands can be reached
by train from Schiphol Station.
The journey to Amsterdam
Centraal Station takes 20
minutes. Schiphol is also on
the night-train network of
the Western Netherlands (see
p446). In addition, the airport
has good bus connections
with many towns. KLM runs a
bus ser vice (the KLM Hotel
Shuttle), linking the airport
Planes at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport with some 20 hotels in central
and south Amsterdam. There
Shopping low See Buy Fly prices; only are also abundant taxis waiting
If you are leaving the country by alcohol and tobacco is sold here at the airport. Ask for a quote
plane, you will find the large See at the same price as in local before getting in, as tourists
Buy Fly shopping centre when shops. Passengers to destinations are often overcharged.
you leave customs control. outside the EU can still purchase
Although travellers to other EU duty-free alcohol and tobacco.
member states are not permitted The centrally located Schiphol
to buy duty-free goods at the Plaza is open to everyone, but
airport (see p434), it is still possible the goods stocked here are not
to find some bargains with the sold at See Buy Fly prices.
Terminal
D42/D57
D62/D87 D12/D31
Entrance
C3/C16
Lounge South
E2/E13
Lounge Center D2/D8
Watch shop at Schiphol

B1/B16
P2
P1
Lounge
Regional Airports
G20
West WTC Hilton Eindhoven, Maastricht,
Rotterdam and Groningen are
G1/G10
Schiphol East
all served by domestic flights,
P 12
long-stay car park
P40 Exit with flights between Eindhoven
A4 Entrance
and Schiphol, Maastricht and
AMSTERDAM Schiphol, Groningen and
Rotterdam and Eindhoven and
A4 Rotterdam. There are direct
THE HAGUE/
ROTTERDAM international flights between
Rotterdam and Eindhoven and
Railway station Manchester and London, and
See Buy Fly duty- between Maastricht and
Gate B / C
free shops Munich, Berlin and London.
Airline desks
Gate D
Key
Public access areas
Arrivals Check in/baggage pick-up
Gate B / C Passengers only

Customs
Passport control
No entry
Information screens at Schiphol

444 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
By Rail
The Netherlands can easily be
reached by train from most
European countries, although
visitors from further afield may
have to change trains several
times en route. Eurostar runs
from London via the Channel
Tunnel to Brussels, where you
change for Amsterdam.
There are direct trains from a
number of European stations.
For example, Brussels, Paris,
Berlin, Zurich, Vienna and
(seasonally) Milan have direct
rail links to Amsterdam Ferries serve Rotterdam, Hook of Holland and IJmuiden
Centraal Station (CS) and
Utrecht CS. From Brussels and travel on the national rail Seaways serves Newcastle
from Antwerp there are trains networks of any three to five and IJmuiden. Other
to Amsterdam all day, bordering countries out of 18 convenient ferry ports for
stopping at Roosendaal, European nations, including visitors from Great Britain are
Rotterdam, The Hague and the Netherlands. Calais and Boulogne (from
Schiphol, including five Folkestone and Dover) in
journeys daily by the Thalys France. Crossing times by
high-speed train from Paris. By Coach ferry range from 16 hours
Many other towns, For travellers from many (NewcastleIJmuiden) to 7590
particularly those in the border European countries the minutes (DoverCalais). Ticket
regions of Belgium and the cheapest way to reach the prices depend on the speed of
Netherlands, can easily be Netherlands is by coach. Most crossing. In summer it is a good
reached by train. Hook of long-distance coaches have idea to book in advance.
Holland is connected by trains toilets and make regular stops.
which connect with ferries In summer in particular there
from the UK port of Harwich. are large numbers of Motoring in
coaches from Holland
other countries The good
Special Tickets serving a system of
Tourists from other EU whole range of roads in the
countries can purchase towns in the Netherlands
cards in their countries that Netherlands. A Eurolines coach makes all
will entitle them to special Eurolines offers a very parts of the country
reductions. An Interrail card extensive network of coach easy to reach by car. Beware,
for people aged 26 and connections. It has coaches however, in the Randstad
under, along with a slightly running from many European region: you may have to put up
dearer version for the cities to the Netherlands at with traffic jams during the
over-26s, allows travellers to least once per week. Dozens rush hour.
use the entire European rail of points in the Netherlands To drive in the Netherlands
network at a discount. Eurail (depending on the point of you need to have a valid
Selectpass offers unlimited departure and route) are national driving licence. In
served by them. From Brussels addition, if in your own car,
and Antwerp there are coaches you will need to have your
to places such as Breda, vehicle log book and insurance
Rotterdam, The Hague, papers with you.
Utrecht and Amsterdam. Roads in the Netherlands are
divided into three categories.
Provincial roads are designated
Ferries with the letter N before the
A number of ferry companies road number, national
serve routes between Britain motorways are designated
and the Netherlands. These with an A before the number
include P&O Ferries that sail and international highways
between Hull and Rotterdam/ have the letter E before the
Europoort, while Stena Line number. All Dutch motorways
sails between Harwich and are equipped with emergency
The Thalys high-speed train Hook of Holland. DFDS telephones from which
motorists can call the ANWB way to buses that are leaving Car Hire
road assistance service (see bus stops. To hire a car you need to be at
p436) if their car breaks down. Finding somewhere to least 21 years old and have a
A non-member can pay for park is often a problem in valid driving licence. Some hire
the ANWBs services, or the cities. As clamping is companies also require at least
become a temporary ANWB prevalent and theft rife, it is one years driving experience.
member. Unless otherwise often best to look for a car The main international car-hire
signposted, the park rather than to try to companies such as Avis,
maximum speed for find street parking. When Budget, Europcar and Hertz
cars in Holland is 120 you enter a car park, take have offices at Schiphol and in
km/h (75 mph) on a ticket from the all major cities. Local car-hire
motorways, 100 km/h machine at the barrier, firms are often substantially
(62 mph) on major and pay at the cheaper. When hiring a car
roads, 80 km/h (50 mph) payment machine without a credit card, you may
on secondary roads and before leaving. Avoid have to pay a hefty deposit.
50 km/h (30 mph) in built- out-of-order street
up areas. At unmarked meters as you could get
junctions, give way to fined or your car could
traffic coming from the be clamped. You may not
left, except for trams, which park on yellow lines, and
always have right of way on yellow broken lines
(except when you are you may not park even
driving along a road to load or unload. If you
which has right of way). stop on a blue line, you
In built-up areas will need to have A bike hooked on a car, an easy way of
motorists must give Emergency phone a parking disc. taking your bike along
DIRECTORY
Schiphol Airport Delta Air Lines Bus Companies By Car
Tel 020-7219128. ANWB
Information and Eurolines Nederland
delta-air.com Tel 088-2692222.
services Stationsplein 3
easyJet (Bus station, next to
Tel 0900-0141 Car Hire Firms
Amsterdam-Duivendrecht at Schiphol
schiphol.nl Tel 0900-0401048 (NL).
train station).
easyjet.com AVIS
Tel 0880-761700.
Regional Airports Tel 088-2847620.
KLM & KLM eurolines.nl
Eindhoven Airport Cityhopper Budget
Rokin 38A, 1012 KT
Tel 088-2847620.
Tel 0900-9505. Tel 020-4747747. Amsterdam.
Tel 0880-761700. Europcar
Groningen Airport klm.nl
Tel 020-3164190.
Eelde Transavia Eurolines (UK)
Hertz
Tel 050-3097070 Tel 08717-818177 (UK). Tel 020-5020240.
Tel 0900-0737.
nationalexpress.
Maastricht Aachen transavia.com
co.uk
Airport United Airlines
Tel 043-3589898. Tel 020-3469381.
Ferries
Rotterdam Airport united.com DFDS Seaways
Tel 010-4463444. Tel 0871-5229955.
Railways dfdsseaways.co.uk
Airlines P&O North
NS International
Sea Ferries
Aer Lingus Support
Tel 0800-1300030.
Tel 0900-2658207. Tel 030-2300023.
poferries.com
aerlingus.com
Public transport Stena Line BV
British Airways travel information Stationsweg 10, 3151 HS.
Tel 020-3469389. Tel 0900-9292. Tel 0174-389333.
ba.com 9292.nl stenaline.co.uk
446 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Public Transport
The Netherlands has a comprehensive and efficient
public transport system. Major cities can be easily
reached by train, while towns and villages are served
by local buses as well as a number of trains. The
Randstad in particular gets fairly snarled up in the DierenApeldoorn steam train
morning and evening rush hour. If you need to travel
at that time, the best thing to do is to leave the car Steam Trains
and take the train. There are many places in the
Netherlands where you can
take a ride in a steam train.
the rear door is for boarding There is, for example, the
only. Tram stops are normally 22-km (14-mile) Dieren
announced, but if you arent Apeldoorn line, the 16-km
sure where to get off, you can (10-mile) KerkradeSchin
always ask the driver to call out op Geul, (the million line,
the stop. see p372), the 15.5-km (9.5-
mile) GoesOudelande,
around the Valkenburgse
Long-distance buses cover an expanding By Train Meer lake and through
the Hoogoventerrein at
number of routes The Dutch national railway
IJmuiden (21 km/13 miles,
company, Nederlandse departing from Beverwijk
By Bus Spoorwegen, or simply NS, Station, see p192). A steam
The Netherlands has a good runs a busy network which is train runs the 20 km
network of local buses and considered one of the best in (12 miles) between Hoorn
inter-city coaches. Booklets the world. Trains are clean and and Medemblik in summer
are available giving detailed generally run on time, and (see p182). Check with the VVV,
information on routes, time- tickets are reasonably priced. as schedules vary.
tables and fares, although it is Timetables are displayed on
also possible to get information yellow boards in stations. Rail
from Openbaar Vervoer tickets are available at ticket transport are also available.
Reisinformatie (0900-9292). offices, Wizzl station shops For information it is best to
Operated by a number of and from ticket machines in ask at ticket offices, or
companies, long-distance buses stations, or, with a substantial telephone 0900-9292.
are very comfortable. They supplement, from the Many railways in Friesland,
usually follow direct routes conductor aboard the train. Groningen and the Achterhoek
between places and stop less Dutch Railways has a wide are run by NordNed and Syntus.
frequently than local buses variety of fare discounts on offer, NS cards are also valid on
(streekbussen). In the evenings including Railrunner tickets for these lines. Night trains run on
they do not operate as late as children, and other offers for the Utrecht CS-Amsterdam
the local buses. The timetables people regularly using the same CS-Schiphol-Leiden Centraal-
for buses are based on the route. Combined season tickets The Hague CS-Delft-Rotterdam
railway timetable. Long-distance for the train and local or urban CS lines.
buses are green and have an
information display.
By Tram
There are trams in Amsterdam,
Rotterdam, Utrecht and The
Hague. They generally run from
6am to midnight. On Sundays
they start one or one-and-a-half
hours later. Tram stops display
the name of the stop, the tram
numbers that stop there and
show the other stops on the
route. Tram shelters display
maps of the tram network.
You can board or alight from
any door, unless there is a
conductor on the tram, when An NS double-decker train speeding past tulip fields
Metro the cost of each trip from the Taxis

Amsterdam and Rotterdam available credit. OV-chipkaarts are If you need a taxi, the best
are the only towns in the also available for train journeys. thing is to either go to a taxi-
Netherlands with a metro. The ticketing system works stand or phone a Taxicentrale:
Both networks are fairly via the OV-chipkaart (www. numbers can be found in the
extensive. Amsterdams metro wov-chipkaart.nl). They are of phone directory and in the
has three lines, two of which two types: paper and plastic. Yellow Pages. It is less common
begin at the Centraal Station, Paper OV-chipkaarts are best to hail a taxi in the
and the third at Station used for shorter journeys. street, although it
Sloterdijk. They go as far as These can be can be done.
Gaasperplas and Gein. From purchased Taxis are
Centraal Station there is also a from most metered and
suburban tram to Amstelveen. tram and after an initial
The Rotterdam metro system bus drivers, charge, the fare
comprises two lines which many VVVs A treintaxi depends on the
cross one another, the north and a few hotels. distance travelled
south line going from Centraal They need to be checked and the time. Taxis cost more
Station to Spijkenisse, and against an electronic reader at night.
the westeast line from when you enter and leave
Marconiplein to Capelle, the public transport system.
with a branch to Ommoord- For longer stays, purchasing Rail Taxis
Zevenkamp. The first metro a rechargeable, plastic Around 100 Dutch railway
leaves the terminus at around OV-chipkaart is advisable. stations operate a rail taxi, or
6am (around 7:45am on It comes in two main types, treintaxi, service which enables
Sundays), and the last train personalized and anonymous you to travel cheaply to a
arrives at its destination at and both cost 7.50. Valid for destination in the same or
approximately 0:15 or 0:30am. five years, these are sold at nearby district. The price of a
train and bus stations. single ticket starts from 6 and
Also, please note that the is valid whatever the length of
plastic (but not paper) the journey. The taxi will also
OV-chipkaart can also be take other passengers to their
used on the NS train network. destinations, and so will usually
In order to validate a journey, take a roundabout route.
users need to hold the Rail taxis operate from
OV-chipkaart in front of 7am (8am on Sundays and
OV-chipkaart, a smartcard required for the grey card reader at metro public holidays) until just
travelling on public transport or platform gates and on after the arrival of the last train.
boarding a bus or tram; You can book by phoning
Tram, Bus, Metro and remember to swipe again 0900-TREINTAXI/8734682 or
Train Tickets on disembarking, or you will via the Reisplanner Xtra travel
To travel on buses, trams and be charged the full fare to planner app. At the station,
metro systems throughout the the terminus. Children under book by pressing the button on
Netherlands you must have an 4 travel free; seniors and the blue-yellow column. Inform-
OV-chipkaart: a smartcard that 411-year-olds can claim a ation on places covered by the
works much like a pay-as-you- discount if they buy their cards ser vice is given in the NS leaflet
go phone card, deducting in advance. Treintaxi-stations op een rijtje.
Special Outings
The Canal Bus is an excellent way to get around Amsterdams waterways. They operate on
three circular routes: the green route, the red route and the blue route, which meet at various
points, including the jetty outside Centraal Station
and on the Singelgracht between the Rijksmuseum
and Leidseplein. There are 17 stops in all and
together they provide easy access to most major
sights. During high season, boats leave from
opposite Centraal Station every half an hour
between 9:30am and 6pm. A day ticket for all
three routes, which costs 19 per adult, and
9.50 for children (aged 412 years), allows
you to hop on and off as many times as you
like. Another reasonable offer is the 24-hour
ticket, which costs just 2.50 more. The Canal Bus in Amsterdam
448 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Cycling
The flat landscape of the Netherlands makes it a boon for
cyclists. At least 85 per cent of the population has a bicycle,
and there is no shortage of maps and guidebooks with
interesting cycling routes. You can use the LF-routes (see
p449) to plan your own daytrip or cycling holiday. Another
possibility is to take part in an organized cycle tour, where
you are awarded a souvenir medal at the end.
Guides showing cycling routes
Road Safety some 100 railway stations with can hire bicycles. The VVV and
The large number of cycle paths a Rijwielshop or Fietspoint. Cycle ANWB can also direct you to
and cycle lanes, often equipped hire usually costs around 7.50 cycle hire shops.
with traffic lights for cyclists, per day. Cycle hire shops also
make cycling in the Netherlands offer weekly tariffs that work
a safe and enjoyable activity. out relatively cheaper. Many of Security
However, its worth keeping a them require a deposit, which Even if your bicycle is
look-out for mopeds, which can range from 30 to 145, equipped with a rear-wheel
frequently make use of cycle and often want proof of lock, its a good idea par-
paths. Cycling in the peaceful identity. Tandems are also ticularly in the big cities to
countryside and cycling in sometimes available, though secure your bicycle to a post
the busy city are two quite they cost more, and their lack or a bicycle rack by the front
separate experiences. In of manoeuvrability does not wheel. Cycle hire shops will
Amsterdam particularly, the make them very suitable for often provide you with a lock
traffic is fairly chaotic mostly use in city traffic. for the bike, especially in cities
because of the large number where bicycle theft is a
of cyclists, who tend to ignore problem. At many railway
the traffic regulations. If you stations you can leave your
are unaccustomed to this, its bicycle in a secure bicycle
worth taking extra care. Front park for around 1. Do
and rear lights, a rear reflector Sign for the Rijwiel cycle hire shop, found not leave any luggage on
and reflective strips or reflective at nearly 100 railway stations your bicycle if you park it
circles are compulsory at night. somewhere, not even in a
Many cyclists ride without this If you are planning to make a guarded bicycle park.
equipment, often leaving them train journey and hire a cycle
almost invisible. from your destination, it is
worth buying a huurfietskaartje Bicycles and Public
(cycle hire ticket) when setting Transport
Cycle Hire out. It is a good idea to reserve For an additional payment you
There are plenty of cycle hire the bicycle by telephone in can take your bicycle on the
shops in the Netherlands. You advance. The NS publishes a train, except during rush hours
can either go to private cycle special pamphlet, Fiets en Trein, (SepJun: 6:309am and 4:30
hire places or hire a bike from which lists stations where you 6pm MonFri). To do this, you
need to buy a Dagkaart fiets
(bike ticket) from a train or
metro station in addition to
your ordinary train ticket.
These tickets cost 6 and
are valid for the whole day
regardless of the length of
your journey. Places for bi-
cycles on trains are marked
with stickers on the carriage.
Folding cycles, when folded,
may be taken on trains free
of charge. Bicycles may be
taken on metros and
suburban (fast) trams,
provided that you have a
bike ticket, but they are
not allowed on buses
An organized cycling tour on the Zaanse Schans and city trams.
Cycling Tours
If you want to get from point
A to point B by the quickest
possible route, just follow the
white-and-red ANWB cycle
route signposts. Maps and
guides for cyclists describing
routes of various lengths are
available from the VVV, the
ANWB and many bookstores.
They often contain a variety of
local background information,
as well as the addresses of cycle
hire shops and places to stay,
such as pensions, camping sites Cyclists on tour stopping to enjoy an ice cream
and hiking huts (see also p395).
Useful examples are the regional 230-km/143-mile Elfstedenroute To take part in an organized
ANWB/VVV Toeristenkaarten, in Friesland) are described in cycle tour, contact organizations
which suggest some particularly guides such as the ANWB/VVV such as Cycletours or the
enjoyable routes, and the Lange Fiestronde. These routes Fietsvakantiewinkel (see
Dwarsstap-fiets-mappen, which are also signposted. Another p429), some of the main
give descriptions of cycle routes, organization, the Stichting VVV offices and the ANWB
often in the area surrounding Landelijk Fiets-platform, or (members only). These
big cities, and also contain national cycling association organizations can arrange
topographical maps. The (see p429), has a network of cycle-tour packages, including
regional ANWB/VVV- some 6,000 km (3,730 miles) accommodation and luggage
fietsgiden have maps and of numbered National transfer. For information on
provide descriptions of Cycle Routes (Landelijke cycling in nature reserve
hundreds of enjoyable Fiestroutes, or LF). areas, see page 429.
cycling trips of around These often follow
25 km (15 miles), from quiet byroads and
the Amelandroute to the cycle tracks and are Cycling Events
Maasdalroute in Limburg. Cycle lane described in two of the Meimaand Fietsmaand is the
Many of these routes are sign LF-basisgidsen. Some are years biggest bicycle event:
marked with hexagonal marked with square a whole month (May) packed
signs. Around 45 railway-based signs, such as LF-15, which is with bicycle rides, meets
routes are also offered under the Boerenlandroute (farmland and races throughout the
the name NS-Fietstocht. Maps route) from Alkmaar to Netherlands. In 2010, about
of the route are on sale at the Enschede. Guides to individual 570,000 cyclists participated.
relevant railway stations. NS routes are also available. The Information on the various
publishes a booklet, entitled Fietsideenkaart, a map available routes and events can be
Er op Uit!, describing these from the VVV and ANWB, also found at the national cycling
routes. Long-distance tours provides brief descriptions of associations website: www.
of at least 200 km (125 miles) LF and other marked cycling fietsplatform.nl. Local
in length (for example, the routes around the country. cycle-touring clubs organize
regular non-competitive
tours through picturesque
or interesting areas, although
you have to pay a fee to join.
For further information, apply
at the Dutch cycle tour
society (Nederlandse Toer
Fiets Unie, or NFTU, see p429).
In addition, dozens of local
tours lasting several days are
organized locally, such as the
Drentse Rijwielvierdaagse in
July. Participants can often
choose between routes of
lengths varying from 30 to
100 km (20 to 60 miles) per
day. You will find an over-
view of these online at www.
The ferry at Wijk near Duurstede, which carries bicycles fiets4daagse.nl.
450 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Amsterdam 22, 64163, 170, 171 Appelscha 305
main entries. Amsterdam and Environs map 19 Appingedam 281, 283, 292
Amsterdams Best: Cafs 723 Aqua Delta (Bruinisse) 257
3-Oktoberfeesten (Leiden) 38 Amsterdams Best: Canals and Aqua Mundo 393
30 Years War 201, 242, 243 Waterways 667 Aqua Zoo Friesland (Leeuwarden) 426,
80 Years War 53, 54, 349, 359 Amsterdams Best: Museums 7071 427
Battle of the Mookerhei (1574) 374 Canal Ring 98119 Aquariums
Peace of Mnster (1648) 55 Canal Walk 1029 Artis Royal Zoo (Amsterdam) 143
surrender of Breda (1625) 367 A Circular Tour from Amsterdam 11, 16 Deltapark Neeltje Jans
William of Orange 232 entertainment 15053 (Vrouwenpolder) 250
festivals 369 Dolfinarium (Harderwijk) 336, 341,
A Golden Age 54, 689 426, 427
Aalsmeer 193 history 51, 54, 56 North Sea Aquarium (Den Holder)
Aaltjesdag (Harderwijk) 37 hotels 3967 182
Aardenburg 259 Museum Quarter 12033 Sea Life Scheveningen 229
Abbekerk 184 Nieuwe Zijde 8697 see also Zoos
Abbeys Oude Zijde 7485 Arcen 353, 374
Abbey Church (Thorn) 382 Outside the Centre 13447 Archaeology 467
Drenthe Abbey cloister 312 public transport 4467 megalith route 31011
Egmond Abbey 192 reclaimed land 171 Archeon (Alphen a/d Rijn) 426, 427
Middelburg Abbey 253, 254 restaurants 4069 Architecture
Aboriginal Art Museum (Utrecht) 206 shopping 1489 Amsterdam School 1467
De Acht en de Opbouw 330 Street Finder 15463 Brabant Gothic and Neo-Gothic style
Achterberg, Gerrit 223 tourist information 150, 433 354
Achterhoek 335, 345, 346 Two Days in Amsterdam 10, 12 Canal House Architecture
Acquoy 349 Amsterdam (East Indiaman) 71, 134, (Amsterdam) 100101
Adrianus VI, Pope 245 136, 137 Farmhouses and Windmills 289
Aduard, restaurants 412 Amsterdam Exchange 54 Arkel, Gerrit van 111
Aertsen, Pieter 128, 132 Amsterdam Museum 70, 86, 88, 967 Arkel, Jan van, Bishop of Utrecht 201
De-Affaire (Nijmegen) 347 Amsterdam School 79, 82, 95, 116, 117, Arnhem 17, 335, 344
Afsluitdijk 167, 168, 180, 327 119, 145, 1467, 228 hotels 400
itineraries 11, 15 Amsterdamsche Veld 315 map 344
Air travel 171, 4423, 445 Amsterdamse Bos (Amstelveen) 193 restaurants 414
Ajax Amsterdam 63, 73, 152, 153 Amsterdamse Poort (Haarlem) 189 Arnhem, Battle of (1944) 344
Albert, Prince Consort 124 Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen Arsenaal (Vlissingen) 255
Albert Cuypmarkt (Amsterdam) 22, (Zandvoort) 192 Het Arsenaal Amusement Park
145 Amusement and theme parks 4267 (Vlissingen) 255, 426, 427
Albert Heijn (Zaanse Schans) 179 Amusement Park Het Arsenaal Art
Alberts and Van Huut 286, 313 (Vlissingen) 255, 426, 427 The Dutch Masters 3031
Alblasserwaard 244, 245 Avonturenpark Hellendoorn 325, Genre painting 127
Alewijn, Cornelis 115 426, 427 Landscape art 333
Alkmaar 15, 185 Duinrell (Wassenaar) 4267, 427 Pottery and Tiles 323
Allard Pierson Museum (Amsterdam) De Efteling (Kaatsheuvel) 359, 366, 427 Art Deco 32, 116
94 Linnaeushof (Bennebroek) 216, 427 Art Nouveau
Alleb, A, Early to Church 57 Madurodam (The Hague) 229 architecture 111, 116, 189
Almere 327, 328, 333 Mini Mundi (Middelburg) 253 pottery 32, 33
restaurants 414 Verkeerspark Assen 312 Artis Royal Zoo (Amsterdam) 1423
Almshouses see Hofjes The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman Arts, performing 24
The Alteration 79, 80, 90, 91, 128 (Rembrandt) 78, 96 see also Entertainment
and clandestine churches 95 The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp Aspergerie Primeur (Venlo) 36
Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 80 (Rembrandt) 78, 226 Assen 307, 312
Alva, Ferdinand, Duke of 45, 54, 375 Anloo 311 restaurants 413
Ambtmanshuis (Tiel) 348 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 12, 70, Atelier van Lieshout, Bonnefantopia
Ambulances 436, 437 110, 11213 379
Ameland 15, 269, 271, 2789 Anninga, Hib 320 ATMs 438
hotels 398 Antiques shops 149, 416, 421 Auctions 417, 421
restaurants 412 Antonisz, Cornelis, The Guild of St Autumn 389
American Hotel (Amsterdam) 116 George 51 Avercamp, Hendrick, Winter Landscape
Amerongen 211 ANWB (Dutch Automobile Club) 432, with Skaters 126
hotels 397 433 Avonturenpark Hellendoorn 317, 325,
Amersfoort 11, 16, 196, 199, 210 campsites 395 426, 427
hotels 397 roadside assistance 436, 437, 445
restaurants 410 Apartments, renting 389 B
Amersfoortse kei 210 Apeldoorn 13, 33840 Baanderheren 345
Amstel, river 67, 73, 109 Apenheul Primate Park (Apeldoorn) 340 Baarn 203
Amstel china 33 Apollo (Quellien) 69 restaurants 410
Amstelsluizen (Amsterdam) 139 Appel, Karel 62 Baat, Jan de, Ome Loeks horse 285
Amstelveen 193 Man and Animals 133 Backer, Adriaen, Governesses at the
Amstelveld (Amsterdam) 106 Women, Children, Animals 193 Burgher Orphanage 70
GENERAL INDEX 451
Backhuyzen, Ludolf, The IJ at Betondorp (Amsterdam) 146 Boats and ships (cont.)
Amsterdam, Viewed from the Mussel Betuwe 26, 27, 335, 3489 Scheepvaart Museum (Amsterdam)
Quay 42 Beukelsz, Willem 51 71, 1367
Balderick, Bishop of Utrecht 44 Beuningen, DG van 238 Schepenhal (Zuiderzeemuseum) 180
Balk 303 Beurs van Berlage (Amsterdam) 95, Werfmuseum t Kromhout
Ballet 150, 153, 423, 425 146, 150, 153 (Amsterdam) 139
Balloo 310 Beurstraverse (Rotterdam) 236 Boerhaave, Hermanus 220, 221
Balloorkuil (Rolde) 314 Beuys, Joseph 368 Boers 61
Bandkeramikers 46, 371 Bezoekerscentrum (Orvelte) 314 Boezem, Marius, Groene Kathedraal 333
Bank notes 439 Bezoekerscentrum De Reidplm 305 Boijmans, FJO 238
Banket van de Officieren van de Bezoekerscentrum Sallandse Bol, Ferdinand 128
St-Jorisdoelen (Hals) 190 Heuvelrug (Nijverdal) 325 Bollard, Sibout 109
Banks 4389 Bicker, Jan 115 Bollenstreek 21617
opening hours 433, 438 Bickerseiland (Amsterdam) 115 festivals 36
Barents, Willem 52, 53, 278 Bicycles see Cycling Bolsward 298, 301
Barneveld 341 Biddinghuizen, restaurants 414 Bommel, Willem van 374
restaurants 414 Biesbosch 51, 359 Boniface, St 489, 300
Bartels, Chris 119 Bijbels Museum (Amsterdam) 117 Bonifatiusbron (Dokkum) 300
Bartje (statue) (Assen) 312 Bilhamer, Joost 85, 82, 96, 132 Bonnefantenmuseum (Maastricht) 353,
Bartlehiem 295, 299 Binnen-Dieze (s-Hertogenbosch) 362, 3789
Bartolotti House (Amsterdam) 100, 110 366 Bonnefantopia (Atelier van Lieshout)
Basilica/Basiliek see Churches Binnenhof (The Hague) 12, 222, 223, 379
Batavia 262, 331 224 Books
Batavian Republic 45, 58 Biondo, Giovanni del, St Stephen 379 Deventer Bocckenmarkt 324
Batavians 47, 346 Birds shops (Amsterdam) 149
Bataviawerf (Lelystad) 16, 331 beak shapes 272 Bordello Scene (van Mieris de Oude)
Bauhaus 132 Botshol 200 226
Bavaria, House of 50 environmental policy 2645 Boreel, Jacob 107
Bazel, KPC de 117 Griend 278 Borger 307, 311, 314
Beaches 1723 Knardijk 332 restaurants 413
Beaker People 46, 263, 31011, 314, 371 Naardermeer 195 Borssele, Floris van 257
Beatrix, Queen 45, 63, 110, 203, 299, Northern and Eastern Netherlands Bosch, Hieronymus 363, 366
368 266 The Pedlar 239
Bed and breakfast 388 Oostvaardersplassen 332 Bosch, Theo 80
Beeckman, Andries 61 Oude Venen 305 Bosschaert, Ambrosius, Vase with
Beek, climate 40 De Slufter (Texel) 277 Flowers 226
Beekbergen, restaurants 414 Waddenzee 2723 Botshol 200
De Beemster 177, 179 West Frisian Islands 269 Bouman, Elias 82
Beer Blaricum, restaurants 409 Bourtange 281, 293
Nationaal Biermuseum De Boom Bleys, AC 95 Braakensiek, Johan, Hunting Day 97
(Alkmaar) 185 Blijdorp (Rotterdam) 236 Brabant, Dukes of 359, 371
shopping for 420 Bloem, JC 369 Brants, Christoffel 105
Us Heit Bierbrouwerij (Bolsward) 301 Bloemaert, Abraham Cornelisz 206 Breakdowns, cars 436, 437
Beerta 283 Bloemen Corso (Bollenstreek) 34, 36, Breda 352, 3667
Beetsterzwaag 305 217 hotels 401
Beggars of the Sea 54, 192, 220, 245 Bloemenveiling Flora Holland restaurants 414
Begijnhof (Amsterdam) 12, 87, 88, 91 (Aalsmeer) 193 Bredius, Abraham 224
t Behouden Huys (Terschelling) 15, Bloemgracht (Amsterdam) 66, 110 Breitner, George Hendrik 129, 228, 369
278 Blokzijl 318 Breukelen 202
Belgian Revolution 59 hotels 400 Bridges
Benthem, Evert van 299 Blom, P 235 Erasmusbrug (Rotterdam) 235
Berckheijde, Gerrit A Boats and ships Korenbeursbrug (Leiden) 14, 219
The Flower Market and Town Hall 97 Batavia 331 Magere Brug (Amsterdam) 66,
The Grote Markt, Haarlem 188, 191 boat show (Amsterdam) 39 11819
Herengracht 109 Canal Bus (Amsterdam) 447 Reguliersgracht (Amsterdam) 108
Berg en Dal, restaurants 414 Dutch Trading Empire 523 St Servaasbrug (Maastricht) 377
Bergen, Adriaen van 367 ferries 444, 445 Torensluis (Amsterdam) 94
Bergen aan Zee, hotels 397 Fries Scheepvaart Museum (Sneek) Brielle 245
Bergen op Zoom 360, 367 303 festivals 36
festivals 356 Kano & Electroboot Waterland (Broek Brienen, Margurite Mary, Baroness
restaurants 414 in Waterland) 182 van 229
Bergen op Zoom, Siege of 59 Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum Brinker, Hans 27, 301
Bergen School 185 (Groningen) 287 Broek in Waterland 182
Berlage, HP 145, 146, 244, 342 punts 323 hotels 397
Beurs van Berlage 95, 146 regattas 37 Bronbeek 344
Gemeentemuseum Den Haag 228 Rotterdam: City of Water 24041 Bronckhorst, Han van 93
Bernhard, Prince 125 sailing 428 Bronkhorst 17, 337, 345
Bernold, Bishop of Utrecht 206 Scheepswerf De Schelde (Vlissingen) Bronze Age 46
Besten, Pieter de 119 255 Brouwersgracht (Amsterdam) 66, 115
452 GENERAL INDEX
Brouwershaven 256 Cars (cont.) Cathedrals (cont.)

Brueghel, Jan the Elder, View on a City roadside assistance 436, 437 St Christoffelkathedraal (Roermond)
from a River 379 Castles and fortifications 375
Brueghel, Pieter 366 Arcen castle 353, 374 Catholic Church 223
The Tower of Babel 239 Borg Verhildersum (Leens) 291 Catholicism and Devotion 3545
Bruijn, Pi de 124, 223 Bourtange 293 Reformation 567
Bruinisse 257 Brielle 245 Caves
Brummen, hotels 400 De Burcht (Leiden) 221 Gemeentegrot (Valkenburg) 383
Bruna, Dick 206 Coevorden castle 315 Grotten St-Pietersburg (Maastricht)
Bruyn, Sophia de 132 Culemborg 349 381
Bubo, Count 49 Drakenstein (Lage Vuursche) 203 Limburg 371
De Buffel (Rotterdam) 234 Drogenapstoren (Zutphen) 17, 345 CDA (Christian Democratic Alliance)
Buitenplaats Beeckestijn (Velsen) 192 Fort Asperen 244, 349 23, 24, 63
Bulbs 345 Fort Haerlem (Hellevoetsluis) 245 Celtic Fields (Emmen) 315
bulb fields 173 Fort Sanderbout (Sittard) 382 Celts 46, 47, 359
bulb fields tour 21617 Fort Veldhuis (Heemskerk) 192 Cemeteries
Keukenhof 213, 216, 217 Fraeylemaborg (Slochteren) 292 American War Cemetery (Margraten)
Bungalow parks 257, 388, 3923, 429 Gemert castle 369 385
Bungehuis (Amsterdam) 102 De Haar castle (Haarzuilens) 197 kerkhof van Striep (Terschelling) 278
Bunschoten-Spakenburg 203 Helmond castle 369 Maastricht 376
De Burcht (Leiden) 221 Heusden 366 CenterParcs 392, 393
Bureaux de change 438 Huys Dever (Lisse) 214, 217 Centraal Museum (Utrecht) 13, 204, 206
Buren 349 Kasteel Amerongen 211 Centraal Station (Amsterdam) 945
Burgers Zoo (Arnhem) 344, 426, 427 Kasteel van Breda 366 Centre Cramique (Maastricht) 381
Burgh-Haamsted, restaurants 411 Kasteel Duurstede 211 Ceramics 323
Burgundy, House of 445, 197 Kasteel Egmond 192 Groninger Museum (Groningen) 288
Buschuyse, Floris van 219 Kasteel Eijsden 353, 383, 384 shopping for 419
Buses 445, 446 Kasteel Groeneveld (Baarn) 203 see also Delftware
to/from airport 443 Kasteel Heeswijk (Heeswijk-Dinter) Czanne, Paul 132
361 Chagall, Marc 368
C Kasteel Heeze 369 Portrait of the Artist with Seven Fingers
Cabaret 151, 153, 422, 425 Kasteel Hoensbroek 382 132
Cadzand 259 Kasteel Huis Bergh (s-Heerenberg) Chain hotels 388, 391
restaurants 412 346 Chapels
Cadzandbad, hotels 398 Kasteel Loenersloot (Loenen) 200 Agnietenkapel (Amsterdam) 76, 79
Caesar, Julius 47, 359 Kasteel Neubourg (Gulpen) 383 Begijnhof Chapel (Amsterdam) 91
Caf Chris (Amsterdam) 72 Kasteel Radboud (Medemblik) 182 Kapel van het St-Laurensgasthuis
Caf Terrace at Night (van Gogh) 343 Kasteel Rechteren (Dalfsen) 319 (Tholen) 257
Cafs, Amsterdam 723 Kasteel Schaloen (Valkenburg) 353, Lady Chapel (Oude Kerk, Amsterdam)
Cahen, Abel 352, 368 373 85
Calvinism 23, 25, 567, 68 Kasteel Twickel (Delden) 325 Maria Magdalenakapel (Gemert) 354
see also The Alteration; Iconoclastic Kasteel van Woerden 201 Onder de Linden Chapel (Thorn)
Riots Maastricht 380 3545, 382
Campen, Jacob van 69, 71, 92, 93, 96, Menkemaborg (Uithuizen) 291 St Gertrudiskapel (Utrecht) 57
133 Muiderslot (Muiden) 194 St Maartenskapel (Nijmegen) 347
Camping 3945 Naarden 194 St Nicolaaskapel (Nijmegen) 347
Campveerse Toren (Veere) 255 Nienoord castle (Leek) 290 Sint-Hippolytuskapel (Delft) 230
Canal Bus (Amsterdam) 447 Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie 201, Waalse Kapel (Naarden) 194
Canal Ring (Amsterdam) 98119 244, 349 Charlemagne, Emperor 44, 48, 49, 347,
map 99 Nijenrode castle (Breukelen) 202 359
Around the Jordaan street-by-street Pampus (Muiden) 194 Charles V, Emperor 45, 51, 335, 344
11011 Radboud (Medemblik) 182 Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy 45,
Canals Roman Foundations of the Tower 256
Amstelsluizen (Amsterdam) 139 (Maastricht) 380 Charles Martel, King of the Franks 49
Amsterdams Best Canals and Rune van Brederode (Velsen) 192 Chatham, Battle of 55
Waterways 667 Slot Assumburg (Heemskerk) 192 Cheese
boat trips 12, 117 Slot Haamstede (Haamstede) 256 Edam 178
Canal House Architecture Slot Loevestein (Gorinchem) 244 Gouda 243
(Amsterdam) 100101 Slot Marquette (Heemskerk) 192 Kaasmarkt (Alkmaar) 185
Canal Walk (Amsterdam) 1029 Slot Moermond (Westerschouwen) Kaasmuseum (Alkmaar) 185
Kanaal van Gent naar Terneuzen 256 shopping for 420
259 Slot Zuylen 200 Children Bathing in a Stream (von
land reclamation 1689 Sonnenborgh (Utrecht) 205 Dlmen-Krumpelmann) 312
Cananefates 47 Stelling van Amsterdam 192, 194 Chinatown (Amsterdam) 79
Capelle, Jan van de 128 Valkenburg castle 383 Chipkaart 447
Carnival 39, 35051, 3567 Vorden area 345 Chlorus, Constantius 48
Carr, Oscar 139 Westhove castle (near Domburg) 255 Chocolate shops 417, 421
Carr Circus 139 Willemstad 367 Christen Unie 24
Cars Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) 13, 205, Christianity 43, 489, 197
congestion 170 206 Christmas 39
hiring 445 Cathedrals Churches
motoring in Holland 4445 Domkerk (Utrecht) 13, 206, 424, 425 Brabant Gothic style 354
GENERAL INDEX 453
Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.) Consulates 435

clandestine churches 57, 91, 95 St Lievenskerk (Zierikzee) 256 Coop Himmelb(l)au 289
music in 424, 425 St Maartenskerk (Zaltbommel) 349 Copier, Andries Dirk 244
Amstelkerk (Amsterdam) 106 St-Maria-Magdalenakerk (Goes) 258 Cordonnier, Louis 225
Basilica of the Holy Sacrament St Martinuskerk (Veert) 375 Cornices 100
(Meerssen) 354, 384 St Michielskerk (Sittard) 382 Corver, Jan 105
Basiliek van de HH Agatha en Barbara St Nicholas (Wieuwerd) 303 Coster, Laurens Jansz 186
(Oudenbosch) 355, 358, 367 St Nicolaaskerk (Brouwershaven) 256 Coster Diamonds (Amsterdam) 123, 124
Bonifatiuskerk (Dokkum) 300 St Nicolaaskerk (Elburg) 340, 424, 425 Cottessen 371
Engelmunduskerk (Velsen) 192 St Pancratiuskerk (Heerlen) 382 Coulon, Jean 107
Engelse Kerk (Amsterdam) 91, 424, St Petrus Banden (Venray) 374 Country Estates along the Vecht 202
425 St-Servaasbasiliek (Maastricht) 380, Courier services 441
Eusebiuskerk (Arnhem) 17, 344 381 Crabeth, Dirck
Grote Kerk (Alkmaar) 185 St Walburgskerk (Zutphen) 11, 17, The Death of the Virgin Mary 85
Grote Kerk (Dordrecht) 14, 244 345 Judith Beheading Holofernes 242
Grote Kerk (Edam) 178 St Willibrordusbasiliek (Hulst) 2589 Credit cards 438
Grote Kerk (Maassluis) 233 Siepelkerk (Dwingeloo) 308, 314 in hotels 390
Grote Kerk (Martinuskerk) (Doesburg) Sint Jan (s-Hertogenbosch) 352, 362, in shops 148
346 3645, 366 Crijnssen, Abraham 52
Grote Kerk (Naarden) 194 Sint-Jansbasiliek (Laren) 195 Crime 436
Grote Kerk (Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kerk) Sint-Nicolaaskerk (Amsterdam) 95 Crouwel, Benthem 132
(Breda) 352, 3667 Sint-Odolphuskerk (Assendelft) 57 Cruijff, Johan 63, 146
Grote Kerk (St Michalskerk) (Zwolle) Sint-Vituskerk (Hilversum) 195 Crutzen, Paul 63
16, 320 Thorn Abbey Church 382 Culemborg 349
Grote Kerk (St Nicolaaskerk) Vondelkerk (Amsterdam) 125 Culemborg, Vrouwe Elisabeth van 349
(Vollenhove) 321 De Waalse Kerk (Amsterdam) 76, 82, Culture 24
Grote Kerk (St Petruskerk) (Sittard) 382 424, 425 Cuneratoren (Rhenen) 211
Grote Kerk (Sint Bavo) (Haarlem) 14, Westerkerk (Amsterdam) 12, 110, Currency exchange 438
166, 187, 188, 191 114, 424, 425 Customs regulations 434, 435
Hervormde Kerk (Den Burg) 276 Westerkerk (Enkhuizen) 182 Cuyp, Albert, Landscape by Fading Light
Hervormde Kerk (Den Hoorn) 277 Wieringen Church 224
Hervormde Kerk (Heemskerk) 192 (Zuiderzeemuseum, Enkhuizen) 181 Cuypers, JT 125
Hervormde kerk (Nisse) 258 Zuiderkerk (Amsterdam) 77, 82 Cuypers, PJH 94, 125, 126, 195, 197,
De Krijtberg (Amsterdam) 117 Zuiderkerk (Enkhuizen) 182 232, 367, 375, 381, 382
Lambertuskerk (Buren) 349 see also Abbeys; Cathedrals; Chapels Cycling 4289, 4489
Martinikerk (Bolsward) 301 Cimon and Pero (Rubens) 378 bicycles and public transport 448
Martinikerk (Groningen) 15, 284, 286 Cinema see Film cycle hire 448
Michielskerk (Sint-Michielsgestel) 355 Cirque dHiver (Roermond) 39 A Cycling Tour of the River IJsell 11,
Mozes en Aronkerk (Amsterdam) 81 Claus, Prince 110 17
Nederlands-herformde Kerk (Vorden) Climate 4041 events 36, 449
345 Clogs 418 De Hoge Veluwe 343
Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 12, 68, 89, Internationaal Klompenmuseum road safety 448
90, 424, 425 (Eelde) 313 security 448
Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 14, 231, 232 Cloth industry 50 tours 449
Noorderkerk (Amsterdam) 115 Clothes Velorama National Bicycle Museum
Ons Lieve Heer op Solder in restaurants 403 (Nijmegen) 347
(Amsterdam) 57, 95 shopping 148, 417 Vlieland 277
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek traditional costumes 178, 254, 324
(Maastricht) 377, 380, 381 Clubs, Amsterdam 152, 153 D
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Tholen) 257 Clusius, Carolus 220 Daan, Karin 114
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Viere) 255 Coach travel 444 Daendals, Herman Willem 340
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwemunsterkerk Coal mining 371, 372, 382, 383 De Dageraad housing project 145
(Roermond) 354, 375 CoBrA 133, 188, 233 Dalempoort (Gorinchem) 244
Oosterkerk (Hoorn) 182 Cobra Museum voor Moderne Kunst Dalfsen 319
Oude Blasiuskerk (Delden) 325 (Amstelveen) 193 Dam Square (Amsterdam) 689, 102
Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 74, 845, Coehoorn, Menno van 303 Dam Square in 1656 (Lingelbach) 689
424, 425 Coen, Jan Pieterszoon 53, 60 Damrak Canal (Amsterdam) 645
Oude Kerk (Delft) 14, 230, 232 Coenen, Jo 138 Dance 150, 153, 423, 425
Pieterskerk (Leiden) 14, 219, 221 Coevorden 315 Dancing Woman (Kirchner) 133
Rolduc (Kerkrade) 355 hotels 399 Daniels, Ren 378
Roman Catholic Church Coffee, shopping for 417, 421 De Bilt, climate 40
(Ootmarsum) 325 Coins 438, 439 De Koog 276
Romanesque church (Norg) 312 Colenbrander, TAC 32, 33 De Lutte, restaurants 413
Ronde Lutherse Kerk (Amsterdam) 94 Colonialism 6061, 62, 63 De Meinweg 375
St Andreaskerk (Hattem) 340 Comenius, Jan Amos 194 De Muy (Texel) 277
St Baafskerk (Aardenburg) 259 Commandeurshuizen (Ameland) De Pijp (Amsterdam) 145
St Catharijnekerk (Brielle) 245 2789 De Schiphorst, hotels 400
St Geertruidskerk (Bergen op Zoom) Communications 44041 The Death of the Virgin Mary (Crabeth)
367 Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow 85
St Gudulakerk (Lochem) 345 and Grey (Mondriaan) 132 Degas, Edgar, La Petite Danseuse 239
St Janskerk (Gouda) 10, 14, 167, Concertgebouw (Amsterdam) 122, Delden 325
2423 124, 150, 153 Delfshaven (Rotterdam) 10, 14, 236
454 GENERAL INDEX
Delft 14, 213, 23033, 43031 Drentse Aa, river 309, 313 Eisenga, Eise 301
hotels 397 De Drie Fleschjes (Amsterdam) 72 Ekels, Jan, Westerkerk 114
restaurants 410 De Driehoek 332 Elburg 11, 16, 340
street-by-street 23031 Drommedaris (Enkhuizen) 16, 182 Electricity 434
Delftware 323, 191, 228, 230, 233 Dronten 327, 331 Electrische Museumtramlijn
Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 129 Drouwenerzand 313 (Amsterdam-Amstelveen) 193
shopping for 419 Drugs Elfsteden (11 towns) 295
tiles 68, 233 attitudes towards 245, 437 Elfstedentocht 262, 295, 2989, 303
Delfzijl 281 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Ellertsveld 267, 313
Delta plan for the large rivers 27 (Amsterdam) 76, 79 Elsloo 383
Delta Works 21, 25051 prescription drugs 436 Email 441
Deltapark Neeltje Jans Dubuffet, Jean, Jardin dmail 342 Embassies 435
(Vrouwenpolder) 250 Dudok, Willem 195 Emergencies 436, 437
Den Bosch see s-Hertogenbosch Duhameel, Alart 365 Emma, Queen 45, 222
Den Burg 276 Duinrell (Wassenaar) 426, 427 Emmeloord 326, 327, 329, 330
Den Haag see The Hague Duivelshuis (Arnhem) 17, 344 hotels 400
Den Ham, hotels 399 Dlmen-Krumpelmann, Bernard von, Emmen 307, 315
Den Helder 175, 182 Children Bathing in a Stream 312 Ems, river 279, 281
climate 40 Dunes 22, 1723 Engelmunduskerk (Velsen) 192
festivals 37 Drer, Albrecht 129 English-Dutch Naval Wars 55
Den Hoorn 277 Dutch East India Company 523, 54, Enkhuizen 15, 16, 175, 177, 182
Deurne 369 137, 175, 269 Enlightenment 55
Deventer 17, 317, 320, 324 Abel Tasman 290 Enschede 317, 325
restaurants 413 abolition of 59 restaurants 414
Dialling codes 440 Bataviawerf (Lelystad) 331 Entertainment 4227
Diamonds 419 Broek in Waterland 182 Amsterdam 15053
Coster Diamonds (Amsterdam) 123, and colonialism 60, 61 amusement and theme parks 4267
124 Entrepotdok Amsterdam) 138 church music 424, 425
The Diary of Anne Frank 112, 113 and Golden Age of Amsterdam 689 cinema 1512, 153
Dibbets, General 376 Middelburg 252 classical music 150, 153
Dietrich, Marlene 119 Montelbaanstoren (Amsterdam) 82 clubs and discos 152, 153
Diever 310, 315 The Batavia 262 dance 150, 151, 423, 425
Dikke Toren (Zierikzee) 256 Dutch masters 3031, 689 film 423
Disabled travellers 433 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 1269 jazz 424, 425
in hotels 390 Dutch National Ballet 150 listings 150, 432
in restaurants 403 Dutch Reformed Church 23 musicals and cabaret 151, 153, 422,
Discos (Amsterdam) 152, 153 Dutch West India Company 52, 58, 61 425
Discounts Duyl Schwarze, Thrse van, My opera 150, 153, 424, 425
in hotels 390 Domestic Companions 108 orchestral, chamber and choir music
rail travel 444 Dwingelderveld 314 4234, 425
Doctors 436 Dwingeloo 307, 308, 314 rock and pop 15051, 153, 424, 425
Dodge, Mary Mapes 27 Dyck, Floris Claeszoon van, Stilleven spectator sports 152, 153
Doesburg 26061, 346 190 theatre 151, 153, 422, 425
Doesburg, Theo van 62, 132, 208, 220 Dykes 267, 1689, 250 Entrepotdok (Amsterdam) 67, 138
Doetinchem, hotels 401 Environmental policy 2645
Dokkum 15, 298, 299, 300301 E Epen 23
Dolfinarium (Harderwijk) 336, 341, 426, Early to Church (Alleb) 57 Erasmus, Desiderius 79
427 Earnewld 305 Erasmusbrug (Rotterdam) 235
Domburg 246, 255 Ebenhazerhuis (Appingedam) 292 Erfgooiers 195
hotels 398 Ecodrome Park (Zwolle) 317, 320 De Erfgooiers (Hart Nibbrig) 195
restaurants 412 EcoMare (Texel) 271, 427 Ermelo, restaurants 414
Domkerk (Utrecht) 13, 206, 424, 425 Edam 16, 175, 178 Escher, Maurits Cornelius 222, 225
Domtoren (Utrecht) 13, 206 Eelde-Paterswolde 313 Escher in Het Paleis (The Hague) 13,
Doorn 21011 climate 41 222, 225
Dordrecht 14, 22, 23, 170, 244 Eems, M 191 Etiquette, restaurant 403
hotels 398 Eenrum, hotels 399 Euromast (Rotterdam) 14, 236
Dordrecht, Synod of (1618-19) 56 Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum European Economic Community 62
Dorestad 48, 49 (Hindeloopen) 299, 302 European Union 43, 63
Dortsman, Adriaan 94, 119 Eerste Hollandsche Europoort (Rotterdam) 22, 241
Drainage 1689 Levensverzerkerings Bank Euros 439
Cornelis Lely 330 (Amsterdam) 111 Eurospoor (Utrecht) 38
Drees, Willem Sr 62 Eesteren, Cornelis van 330 Euthanasia 24
Dreischor 247, 257 Eetcafs 402 Ewsum, Wigbold van 290
Drenthe 46, 262, 263, 30615 De Efteling (Kaatsheuvel) 359, 366, 427 Exloo 313
hotels 399400 Efteling Village Bosrijk 392 Exloo necklace 47, 311
landscape 267 Egbert II, Count of Friesland 44 Eyck, Aldo van 330
map 3089 Egelantiersgracht (Amsterdam) 110 Eyck, Jan & Hubert van, Three Marys at
megalith route 31011 Egmond 192 the Open Sepulchre 238
restaurants 413 Eijsden 383, 384
Drents Boomkroonpad (Borger) 314 Eindhoven 352, 359, 368 F
Drents-Friese Woud National Park 295, airport 443, 445 Fabritius, Carel, The Goldfinch 227
305, 315 restaurants 41415 The Family Scene (Steen) 31
GENERAL INDEX 455
Farmhouses 28 Frank, Anne Giethoorn 11, 16, 263, 316, 317

Fashion shopping 416 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 12, 70, street-by-street 3223
Feeding the Hungry (Master of Alkmaar) 110, 11213 Gildemester, Jan 105
128 Westerbork 314 Gimborn, Max von 21011
Felix Meritis Building (Amsterdam) 100 Frankendael (Amsterdam) 144 Gin, Jenever Museum (Schiedam) 233
Ferries 444, 445 Franks 43, 489, 359 Girl with a Pearl Earring (Vermeer) 227,
West Frisian Islands 271 Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) 10, 14, 233
Festivals 369 188, 19091 Giving the Bread (van Valckert) 69
Film 1512, 153, 423 Frederick Barbarossa, King 44, 50, 347 Glass
Fire services 436, 437 Frederick of Toledo 189 Leerdam 244
First of April celebrations (Brielle) 36 Frederick-Henry, stadholder 45, 55, Nationaal Glasmuseum (Leerdam)
Fishing 429 225 244
De Flaasbloem (Chaam) 392 Friesland 15, 262, 294305 Godfried III, Duke of Brabant 359
Flevoland 262, 266, 32633 hotels 399 Goedereede 245
hotels 400 map 2967 Goejanverwellesluis 58
landscape 265 restaurants 413 Goes 258
map 3289 Frisian language 24 restaurants 412
restaurants 414 Frisians 43, 47, 489 Gogh, Vincent van see van Gogh,
Flinck, Govert 93 Fruitcorso (Tiel) 38, 3489 Vincent
Flint 311 Frysln see Friesland Golden Age 545
Het Flintn Hoes see Nationaal Funenmolen (Amsterdam) see De Amsterdam 689
Hunebedden Inforatiecentrum Gooyer Windmill Golden Bend (Amsterdam) 99, 101
Floats, Carnival 357 Furniture shops 417, 421 The Goldfinch (Fabritius) 227
Floods Fyerens, Jan 188 Golf 429
controlled flooding 26 Golzius, Hendrick, Mercurius 191
holding back the water 267 G Het Gooi 194, 195
Museum Watersnood 1953 Gaasterland 3023 Goor, CN van 105
(Ouwerkerk) 256 Gables 100101 De Gooyer Windmill (Amsterdam)
Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering Galerij Prins Willem V (The Hague) 222, 1389
166, 25051 224 Gorinchem 244
reclaimed land 1689 Galleries see Museums and galleries Gorter, Herman 303
St Elizabeth Day 51 Garden centres 417 Gosschalk, Isaac 109
St Lucia Flood (1287) 278 Gardens see Parks and gardens Gouda 14, 167, 213, 215, 2423
Zeeland (1953) 21, 62, 247, 256 Garibaldi, Giuseppe 367 Goudestein (Maarssen) 202
Flora 345 Garland, Judy 119 Goudkantoor (Groningen) 284
bulb fields tour 21617 Gasselte 313 Gouwzee 178
dunes 173 Gauguin, Paul 131 Governesses at the Burgher Orphanage
flower auctions 193 Gay hotels 39091 (Backer) 70
flower festivals 34, 36, 217 Gay Pride (Amsterdam) 37 Goya y Lucientes, Francisco Jos de
Northern and Eastern Netherlands Gebouw van de Gasunie (Groningen) 129
2667 286 Grachtengordel (Amsterdam) 12, 66, 99,
shopping for bulbs and flowers 418 Gelderland 262, 33449 110
Waddenzee 274, 275 hotels 400401 Grafisch Museum (Zutphen) 345
see also Tulips landscape 266, 267 Grand Caf Soccerworld (Amsterdam)
Floras Bandwagon (Pot) 69 map 3367 73
Floris II, Count of Holland 44 restaurants 414 s-Graveland 194
Floris V, Count of Holland 44, 51, 194, Gelderse Poort 348 Het Gravensteen (Leiden) 218
201, 243 Geldrop, hotels 401 Gravensteen (Zierikzee) 256
Flour mills 183 Gelre, Count Gerard van 354 Gravenstenenbrug (Haarlem) 187
The Flower Market and Town Hall Gemeentelijk Archeologisch Museum s Gravesande, Arent van 220
(Berckheijde) 97 Aardenburg 259 Grebbeberg 211
Food and drink Gemeentemuseum Den Haag (The Grebber, Pieter de, Moeder en kind 190
The Flavours of the Netherlands 4045 Hague) 13, 228 Grevelingen 258
oysters 258 Gemert 369 Greves, Fred 83
shopping 149, 420 Gendt, Adolf Danil van 147 Griend 269, 278
see also Cafs; Restaurants Gendt, Adolf Leonard van 94, 102, 116, Groene Hart 170, 171, 214
The Fool (Hals) 30 122, 124, 125 Groene Kathedraal (Boezem) 333
Football 63, 73, 152, 153 Gendt, Johan Godart van 147 Groesbeek 348
The Football Boots of Abe Lenstra Generaalshuis (Maastricht) 376 Groningen (province) 46, 262, 28093
(Huisman) 302 Genre painting 30, 31, 68, 127 hotels 399
Forests 267 Geraerts, Balthasar 232 landscape 266, 267
Forts/Fortified towns see Castles and Gerard II of Wasserburg, Count of Gelre map 2823
fortifications 335 restaurants 41213
Fortuyn, Pim 23, 63 Germanic tribes 46, 47 Groningen (town) 11, 15, 280, 281,
Foto Binnale (Amsterdam) 36 Gerulf, Count of Holland 44 2849
Fotomuseum (The Hague) 13, 228 Geul, river 23 hotels 399
Four Days Battle 55 Geuldal 385 restaurants 41213
Four Days Marches (Nijmegen) 347, 348 Gevangenpoort (The Hague) 222, street-by-street 2845
Four putti (Pompe) 366 224 Groningen Airport 313, 443, 445
Fraeylemaborg (Slochteren) 292 Gidding, Jaap 119 Groninger Museum (Groningen) 11, 15,
Francis Xavier, St 117 Gies, Miep 113 263, 2889
Franeker 298, 301 Gieten 313 Groot, Hugo de 55
456 GENERAL INDEX
De Groote Sociteit (Tiel) 348 t Hart, Lenie 291 Hoek van Holland 26, 171
Grootegast 290 t Hart, Maarten 233 Hoensbroek 382
Grote Kerk see Churches Hart Nibbrig, F, De Erfgooiers 195 Hof (Dordrecht) 244
Grote Markt (Haarlem) 186 Hartgring, WP 33 Hofjes 101, 115
Grote Markt, Haarlem (Berckheijde) 188, Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Begijnhof (Amsterdam) 87, 88, 91
191 (Amsterdam) 76, 79 Claes Claeszhofje (Amsterdam) 115
Grotten St-Pietersburg (Maastricht) Hattem 340 Heilige Geestgasthuis (Groningen)
381 Havelte 308, 310 286
Grou 305 Havezathe Laarwoud (Zuidlaren) 313 Leiden 220
The Guild of St George (Antonisz) 51 Health care 4367 Pallaeskameren (Utrecht) 204
Guilds 51, 78 Heathland 267 St Elisabeths Gasthuis (Haarlem) 189
Gulpen 383 Heda, Willem 30 St Geertruidshofje (Groningen) 285,
restaurants 415 Heek, JH van 346 286
Heemskerck, Admiral Jacob van 52, 53, Hoge Berg (Texel) 266, 276
H 85 De Hoge Veluwe National Park 11, 17,
Haaldersbroek 179 Heemskerck, Maerten Jacobsz van 192 2667, 337, 343
Haamstede 256 St Luke Painting the Virgin and Child Hogebeintum 297
Haan, Jacob Isral de 114 191 Holiday villages 3923
Haarlem 22, 166, 170, 18691 Heemskerk 192 Holland 22
hotels 397 hotels 397 see also North Holland; South Holland
itineraries 10, 14 Heemstede, restaurants 409 Holland, Counts of 43, 44, 188, 197,
restaurants 409 s-Heerenberg 346 201, 213, 222, 223, 224
street-by-street 1867 Heerenveen 304 Holland Festival 37
Haarlem Station 189 restaurants 413 Hollandse Manege (Amsterdam) 125
Haarlemmermeer 168, 193 Heerlen 371, 382 Hollewijn, Ber 376
Haarlemmerpoort (Amsterdam) 115 Heeswijk-Dinter 361 Hollum (Ameland) 15, 279
Haarzuilens 197 Heeze 369 Holst, Roland 369
Habsburg, House of 44, 45, 51 Heiligerlee, Battle of (1568) 292 Holten, hotels 400
Hagen, Dr Abraham van 119 Hein, Piet 52, 232, 236, 245 Holthuysen, Pieter 118
The Hague (Den Haag) 14, 22, 170, 213, Heine, Heinrich 24 Homer 141
2229 Heineken Experience (Amsterdam) Homomonument (Amsterdam) 111,
festivals 37, 38 145 114
hotels 398 Heksenwaag (Oudewater) 198, 201 Homosexuality 24
map 225 Hellendoorn adventure park 325 Hondsbossche sea wall 173
restaurants 411 Hellevoetsluis 245 Hondsrug 313
street-by-street 2223 Helmond 369 Honthorst, Gerard van 68, 127
tourist information 433 Helpoort (Maastricht) 380 The Matchmaker 206
Two Days in The Hague 10, 1213 Hemert, Anthony van 106 The Merry Fiddler 31
Hague School 129, 228, 243 Hemmen, Pikeur Loeks van 285 Hooch, Pieter de, Portrait of a Family
De Hallen (Amsterdam) 145 Hemony, Franois 85, 119, 286 Making Music 545
De Hallen (Haarlem) 1889 Hemony, Pieter 286 Hoofddorp, restaurants 410
Hals, Frans 188 Hendrik, Prince 338 Hoofdplaat, restaurants 412
Banket van de Officieren van de Hengelo, hotels 400 Hooft, PC 55, 194
St-Jorisdoelen 190 Henry I, Duke of Brabant 359, 362 Hoogersmilde 46
The Fool 30 Hepworth, Barbara 342 Hoogeveen 307
Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) 10, 14, Herengracht (Amsterdam) 67, 101, Hoogstraat (Leiden) 219
188, 19091 1039 Hooks and Cods dispute 43, 50, 51
The Wedding Portrait 128 Herengracht (Berckheijde) 109 De Hoop wharf (Workum) 302
Hamburg Culture 46 Hermitage Amsterdam 144 Hoorn (North Holland) 15, 182
Hamer, PJ 125 Herrings 36 Hoorn (Terschelling) 278
Hamer, W 125 Hertenhouderij Edelveen (Kampen) Hoppe (Amsterdam) 72
Handel, Georg Friedrich 188 321 Horse market (Zuidlaren) 307, 313
Hanging kitchens (Appingedam) 283, s-Hertogenbosch 352, 3626 Horse riding 429
292 festivals 37, 356 Horsterwold (Zeewolde) 333
Hanseatic League hotels 401 Hortus Botanicus Leiden 14, 218, 220
Appingedam 281, 292 restaurants 415 Hortus Haren (Haren) 287
Deventer 318, 324 street-by-street 3623 Hospitals 436, 437
Gelederland 335 Hessen-Kassel, Maria Louise van 300 Hostels 388
Hattem 340 Heusden 366 Hotel New York (Rotterdam) 241
Kampen 318, 320, 321 Heuvelland 353, 373 Hotel de Wereld (Wageningen) 341
Ommen 324 tour of 3845 Hotels 388401
Zwolle 317, 320 Heyden, Jan van der 133 Amsterdam 3967
Harderwijk 336, 341 The Newly Built Town Hall on the River booking 389
festivals 37 Amstel 93 categories 3889
hotels 401 Hijken 46 disabled travellers 390
Haren 287 Hilversum 195 discounts 390
Harich, hotels 399 restaurants 409 Drenthe 399400
Harinxmastate (Beetsterzwaag) 305 Hindeloopen 11, 15, 298, 302 Flevoland 400
Harlingen 15, 296, 298, 301 History 4263 Friesland 399
festivals 37 Hiswa (Amsterdam) 39 gay hotels 39091
hotels 399 Hobbema, Meindert, Middelharnis Lane Gelderland 400401
restaurants 413 245 Groningen 399
GENERAL INDEX 457
Hotels (cont.) Interior of the Sint-Odolphuskerk in Katwijk 213, 216

hotel chains 388, 391 Assendelft (Saenredam) 57 Keidagen (Lochem) 367
Limburg 401 International Court of Justice (The Keizersgracht (Amsterdam) 66, 1025
North Brabant 401 Hague) 22, 213 Keldermans, Anthonis 232
North Holland 397 Internet 441 Keldermans, Rombout 349
Overijssel 400 Intocht van Sinterklaas 389 Keldermans family 2589
packages 390 Iron Age 47 Kempen 359
paying 390 Israls, Josef 195, 228 Kerkrade 355, 371
prices 389 Israls, Maris 228 hotels 401
South Holland 3978 Itineraries 1017 Kessel, Willem van 365
tipping 434 A Circular Tour from Amsterdam 11, Ketelmeer 329
types of 388 16 Keukenhof 20, 36, 213, 216, 217
Utrecht 397 A Cycling Tour of the River IJssel 11, itineraries 10, 14
West Frisian Islands 3989 17 Kever, Trijntje 178
Zeeland 398 Two Days in Amsterdam 10, 12 Key, Lieven de 188, 189
Houseboats (Amsterdam) 107 Two Days in The Hague 10, 1213 Justice 186
Houten, restaurants 410 Two Days in Utrecht 10, 13 Keyser, Hendrick de
Houten, Samuel van 59 A Week in the North and the Islands Amsterdam Museum 96
Houten House (Amsterdam) 91 11, 15 Bartolotti House (Amsterdam) 100
Houtman, Cornelis de 52, 53, 146 A Week in the South 10, 14 Montelbaanstoren (Amsterdam) 82
Hudson, Henry 83 see also Tours by car Munttoren (Amsterdam) 119
Huguenots 82 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 232
Huijdecoper, Joan 202 J Noorderkerk (Amsterdam) 115
Huis Doorn (Doorn) 210, 211 Jachthuis St Hubertus (Otterlo) 342 Stadhuis (Delft) 231
Huis met de Hoofden (Amsterdam) Jacoba of Bavaria 44, 51, 216 Stedelikj Museum (Amsterdam) 132
111, 11415 Jan I, Duke of Brabant and Limburg 44 Westerkerk (Amsterdam) 69, 110, 114
Huisman, Jopie Jan III, Duke of Brabant and Limburg 44 Zuiderkerk (Amsterdam) 82
The Football Boots of Abe Lenstra 302 Jan IV van Arkel, Bishop of Utrecht 44 Keyser, Pieter de 115
Jopie Huisman Museum (Workum) Jansz, Willem 53 Keyser, Thomas de 133
302 Jantje van Sluis (Sluis) 259 Keyzer, Pieter Dirckszoon 52, 53
Huizenblok de Dageraad (Amsterdam) Jardin dmail (Dubuffet) 342 Kinderdijk 10, 14, 212, 244, 245
145 De Jaren (Amsterdam) 73 Kinderkunsthal Villa Zebra (Rotterdam)
Hulst 2589 Java-eiland (Amsterdam) 138 237
Hulst, Admiral Abraham van der 85 Jazz 15051, 153, 424, 425 Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig, Dancing
Hulsterloo (Hulst) 259 festivals 37, 39 Woman 133
Hunebedden (megaliths) 31011 Jazz in Duketown (s-Hertogenbosch) Kist, Gerrit 179
Hunting Day (Braakensiek) 97 37 The Kitchen Maid (Vermeer) 126, 128
Husly, Jacob Otten 100, 105 The Jewish Bride (Rembrandt) 3031, Kite Festival (Scheveningen) 38
Huygens, Christiaan 221 128 Klerk, Michel de 82, 145, 147
Huysum, Jan van, Still Life with Flowers Jews KLM 62, 170, 442, 445
and Fruit 70, 129 Anne Frank Huis 70, 110, 11213 Klokkenstoel (Appelscha) 305
Joods Historisch Museum Knardijk 332
I (Amsterdam) 71, 81 Knijff, Johann, Bishop of Groningen 287
Ice-skating see also Synagogues Kniphausen, Ferdinand Folef 290
Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum Jisp 179 KNSM-eiland (Amsterdam) 138, 139
(Hindeloopen) 299 Jisperveld 179 Koch, Pyke 206
Elfstedentocht 262, 295, 2989 Johan Willem Friso, Prince of Orange Koningsdag 36
Kaatsmuseum (Franeker) 301 45 Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam) 12, 68,
Thialfstadion (Heerenveen) 304 Johns, Jasper, Untitled 133 69, 923
Iconoclastic Riots (1566) 54, 567, 167, Jong, Heyman Louis de 119 Amsterdams Best 71
242, 364 Joods Historisch Museum (Amsterdam) street-by-street map 89
The IJ at Amsterdam, Viewed from the 71, 81 Koninklijk Theater Carr (Amsterdam)
Mussel Quay (Backhuyzen) 42 Jordaan (Amsterdam) 12, 115 139, 151, 153
IJburg (Amsterdam) 168, 169, 171 street-by-street 11011 Koninklijk Weeshuis (Buren) 349
IJlst 298 Jordaanfestival (Amsterdam) 38 Koolhaas, Rem 222
IJmeer 168, 169, 171 Judith Beheading Holofernes (Crabeth) Koornbeurs (Delft) 231
IJmuiden 175, 192 242 Kop van Overijssel 263
IJssel, river 26, 348 Juliana, Queen 45, 229 Koppelpoort (Amersfoort) 196
A Cycling Tour of the River IJssel 11, 17 Justice (De Key) 186 Korenbeursbrug (Leiden) 14, 219
Overijssel 317, 318, 320, 321 Koudum, hotels 399
IJsselmeer 168, 174, 175, 178 K Kramer, Piet 82, 145
Impressionists 129 Kaagman, Hugo 33, 181 Krentenbossen (Dwingeloo) 314
In den Ouden Vogelstruys (Maastricht) Kaapse Bossen (Doorn) 210 De Krijtberg (Amsterdam) 117
376 Kaatsheuvel 359, 366 Krimpenerwaard 26
Indonesian restaurants 402, 405 hotels 401 Krller, Anton 342, 343
Industrial Revolution 59 restaurants 415 Krller-Mller, Helene 342, 343
Informatiecentrum Mar en Klif Kale Duinen (Appelscha) 305 Krller-Mller Museum (Otterlo) 11, 17,
(Oudemirdum) 303 Kalverstraat (Amsterdam) 88 3423
Insects 437 Kamp Amersfoort 210 Kromhout, Willem 116
Insurance Kampen 17, 317, 32021 Kropholler, AJ 368
car 444 Kapitein Zeppos (Amsterdam) 73 Kruiningen, hotels 398
health 4367 Karpershoek (Amsterdam) 73 Kubus-Paalwoningen (Rotterdam) 14, 235
458 GENERAL INDEX
Kuik, Andries van, Bishop of Utrecht 44 Lighthouses (cont.) Magna Plaza (Amsterdam) 94, 149, 421
Kuiperberg (Twente) 325 Het Paard (Marken) 178 Majolica 33, 233
Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 237 Scheveningen 229 Makkum 33
Kurhaus (Scheveningen) 13, 229 Westkapelle 255 restaurants 413
Kurokawa, Kisho 122, 130 Ligne, Jan de 242 Malevich, Kazimir 133
Kuyper, Abraham 59 Limburg 37085 Self-Portrait 133
festivals 37 Man and Animals (Appel) 133
L hotels 401 Manderscheidt-Blankenheim, Clara
Lage Vuursche 203 map 3723 Elisabeth van 355, 382
Lairesse, Gerard de 114 restaurants 415 De Manteling Nature Reserve 255
Het Lammetje (Veere) 255 Lindevallei (Wolvega) 297 Maps
Land reclamation see Reclaimed land Linge, river 244, 349 Amsterdam: Around the Jordaan
Landal Hoog Vaals 393 Lingelbach, Jan, Dam Square in 1656 street-by-street 11011
Landelijke Fietsmaand 36 689 Amsterdam: Cafs 723
Landgoed Anningahof 320 Linnaeus, Carl 341 Amsterdam: Canal Ring 99
Landgoed De Hamert National Park Linnaeushof (Bennebroek) 216, 427 Amsterdam: Canals and Waterways
374 Lisse 214, 216, 217 667
Landscape, Northern and Eastern festivals 36, 217 Amsterdam: Museum Quarter 121
Netherlands 2667 Lissitzky, El 368 Amsterdam: Museum Quarter street-
Landscape art 333 Lixenberg, Cyriel 333 by-street 1223
Landscape by Fading Light (Cuyp) 224 Lochem 345 Amsterdam: Museums 7071
Lange Jan (Middelburg) 253 festivals 36 Amsterdam: Nieuwe Zijde 87
Langgraf op de Schimmer Es (Emmen) Loenen 200, 202 Amsterdam: Nieuwe Zijde street-by-
315 Logteren, Ignatius van 144 street 889
Language 24, 432 London Quay (Middelburg) 253 Amsterdam: Oude Zijde 75
phrase book 4712 Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 13, 263, 3389 Amsterdam: Outside the Centre 135
Laren 195 Looier Kunst en Antiekcentrum Amsterdam: Street Finder 15463
The Last Judgment (van Leyden) 220 (Amsterdam) 117, 149 Amsterdam: University District street-
Laterna Magica (Sloten) 303 Loon 310 by-street 767
Lattrop, hotels 400 Loonse and Drunense dunes 360 Amsterdam and Environs 19
Lauswolt (Beetserzwaag) 305 Lost property 437 Arnhem 344
Lauwersmeer 282, 290 Lothair I, Emperor 48 bulb fields tour 216
Lauwersoog 15, 281, 290 Louis Napoleon, King 45, 59, 93 bungalow parks 3923
Lauwerszee 290 Louis the Pious, King 44 climate 4041
Le Maire, Jacob 52, 53 The Louse Hunt (ter Borch) 227 cross-section of Netherlands 267
Leeghwater, Jan Adriaansz 168, 169, The Love Letter (Vermeer) 68 Delft street-by-street 23031
179 LPF (Lijst Pim Fortuyn) 24 Drenthe 3089
Leek 290 Lubbers, Ruud 63 Dutch Trading Empire 523
Leenhoff, Ferdinand, Mercury 123 Lucent Danstheater (The Hague) 222 Elfstedentocht 2989
Leens 291 Lumey, William de la Marck, Lord van environmental policy 2645
Leerdam 244 245 Flevoland 3289
Leeuwarden 15, 295, 298, 300 Luther, Martin 51 Friesland 2967
Leeuwenhoek, Antonie van 55, 230 Lutjegast 290 Gelderland 3367
Leiden 22, 170, 213, 21821 hotels 399 Giethoorn street-by-street 3223
festivals 38 Luts, river 303 The Great Rivers 348
itineraries 10, 14 Lycklamahuis (Beetsterzwaag) 305 Groningen (province) 2823
restaurants 411 Groningen (town) street-by-street
street-by-street 21819 M 2845
Leiden, Relief of (1603) 242 Maarssen 202 growth of the Randstad 171
Leidse Jazzweek 39 restaurants 410 Haarlem street-by-street 1867
Leidsegracht (Amsterdam) 66, 104, 105 Maas, river 22, 348, 359, 366 The Hague (Den Haag) 225
Leidseplein (Amsterdam) 116 delta 247 The Hague (Den Haag) street-by-
Leisure time 25 Limburg 371, 372, 374 street 2223
Lek, river 26, 349 Maasbracht, restaurants 415 s-Hertogenbosch street-by-street
Lelie, Adriaan de 129 Maasplassen 375 3623
Lely, Cornelis 168, 327, 330 Maassluis 233 Heuvelland 3845
Lelystad 16, 327, 331 Maastricht 371, 37681 Itineraries 1011
hotels 400 airport 443, 445 Leiden street-by-street 21819
Lepelaarsplassen 333 festivals 37, 356 Limburg 3723
Leusden, restaurants 410 hotels 401 Maastricht street-by-street 3767
Leuwarden restaurants 415 megalith route (Drenthe) 31011
hotels 399 street-by-street 3767 Middelburg street-by-street 2523
restaurants 413 tourist information 433 North Brabant 36061
Leyden, Lucas van 128 Maastricht Treaty (1992) 63 North Holland 1767
The Last Judgment 220 McCay, Winsor 141 Northern and Eastern Netherlands
Liberalism 22, 23 Madame Tussauds Scenerama 2623
Librije (Zutphen) 345 (Amsterdam) 89, 90 Overijssel 31819
Lifestyle 245 Maduro, JML 229 Putting the Netherlands on the Map
Light of the Moon (Mitoraj) 229 Madurodam (The Hague) 229 1819
Lighthouses Maes, Nicolaes 128 reclaimed land 169
Brandaris (Terschelling) 278 Magazines 435 Road Map of the Netherlands see
Egmond 192 Magere Brug (Amsterdam) 66, 11819 back endpaper
GENERAL INDEX 459
Maps (cont.) Meijer, B 106 Mller, Christiaan 82, 166, 188

Rotterdam 237 Meimaand Fietsmaand 449 Mller, Johann Caspar 84
Rotterdam Port 24041 Mendini, Alessandro 263, 2889 Multatuli 61
Rotterdam street-by-street 2345 Mengelberg, Otto 90 Mummies (Wieuwerd) 303
sea level 26 Mennonites 57, 301 Munting, Henricus 287
South Holland 21415 Mercurius (Goltzius) 191 Munttoren (Amsterdam) 119
Southern Netherlands 3523 Mercury (Leenhoff ) 123 Museum Quarter (Amsterdam) 12033
Utrecht (city) 207 The Merry Fiddler (Honthorst) 31 map 121
Utrecht (city) street-by-street 2045 Merz, Mario, La Natura lArte del street-by-street 1223
Utrecht (province) 1989 Numero 378 Museumkwartier (Utrecht) 204
West Friesland tour 184 Mesdag, HW 228 Museums and galleries
West Frisian Islands 27071 Mesdag, Sientje 228 Amsterdams Best 7071
Western Europe 18 Metro 447 Museumjaarkaart (Museum Card) 433
Western Netherlands 1667 Michelangelo 189 opening hours 433
Zeeland 2489 Middelburg 247, 2524 Abdijmuseum (Egmond) 192
Margaretha of Bavaria 44, 50 hotels 398 Abel Tasmankabinet (Grootegast) 290
Margaretha of Parma 45, 54 restaurants 412 Aboriginal Art Museum (Utrecht) 206
Margaretha van Brabant 354 street-by-street 2523 ACHK De Paviljoens (Almere) 333
Maria, Duchess of Burgundy 45, 51 Middelharnis 245 Admiraliteitshuis (Dokkum) 300, 301
Maria of Orange 349 Middelharnis Lane (Hobbema) 245 Afrika Museum (Groesbeek) 348
Marken 16, 178 Middle Ages 4851 Allard Pierson Museum (Amsterdam)
Markermeer 168 Midsland (Terschelling) 278 94
Markets 416 Mieris, Frans van de Oude, Bordello Amsterdam Museum 70, 86, 88, 967
Amsterdam 1489 Scene 226 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 12, 70,
cheese market (Gouda) 243 Mini Mundi (Middelburg) 253 110, 11213
De Pijp/Albert Cuypmarkt Minnewit, Pieter 52 Anton Pieck Museum (Hattem) 340
(Amsterdam) 145 Mitoraj, Igor, Light of the Moon 229 Bebingehoes (Eexloo) 313
fish market (Middelburg) 252 Mobile phones 440 De Beeldtuin (Winterswijk) 346
horse market (Zuidlaren) 313, 317 Moeder en Kind (de Grebber) 190 Bevrijdingsmuseum 1944
Kaasmarkt (Alkmaar) 185 Mokbaai (Texel) 270 (Groesbeek) 348
Noordermarkt (Amsterdam) 115 Monarchy 25, 445 Bijbels Museum (Amsterdam) 117
Utrecht 207 Monastery (Ter Appel) 293 Bijbels Openluchtmuseum
Vismarkt (Alkmaar) 185 Mondriaan, Piet 62, 132, 320 (Groesbeek) 348
Marot, Danil 263, 338 Composition in Red, Black, Blue and Boerenbondmuseum (Gemert) 369
Martin of Tongeren, St 381 Grey 132 Bonnefantenmuseum (Maastricht)
Martinitoren (Groningen) 280, 284, 286 Gemeentemuseum Den Haag 228 353, 3789
Marum, Pieter van 187 Krller-Mller Museum (Otterlo) 342 Bosmuseum (Amstelveen) 193
Mary II, Queen of England 338 Mondriaanhuis voor Constructieve Bredas Museum (Breda) 367
Master of Alkmaar, Feeding the Hungry en Concrete Kunst (Amersfoort) 11, Brouws Museum (Brouwershaven)
128 16, 210 256
Master of Elsloo 383 Noordbrabants Museum Centraal Museum (Utrecht) 13, 204,
Master of Koudewater, St Catherine 127 (s-Hertogenbosch) 366 206
Mata Hari 300, 301 Victory Boogie-Woogie 228 Centre Cramique (Maastricht) 381
The Matchmaker (Honthorst) 206 Mondriaan, Pieter Sr. 346 Centrum voor Natuur en Landschap
Matisse, Henri 132 Monet, Claude 132 (Terschelling) 278
Maurits, Prince of Orange 45, 52, 53, The Studio Boat 342 Cobra Museum voor Moderne Kunst
367 Money 4389 (Amstelveen) 193
Mauritshuis (The Hague) 12, 166, 223, Monnickendam 178 Comeniusmuseum (Naarden) 194
2267 restaurants 410 Czaar-Peterhuisje (Zaandam) 179
Mauve, Anton 129, 195 Montelbaanstoren (Amsterdam) 82 Diamond Museum (Amsterdam 124
Mxima, Queen 63, 93 Montferland 27, 346 Drents Museum (Assen) 312
Maximilian I, Emperor 51, 114 Monumentendag 38 Edams Museum (Edam) 178
May, Johan van der 82 Mook 374 Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum
Mayflower 221 Moore, Henry 342 (Hindeloopen) 299, 302
Mechelen 354, 355 Moretti, Jean Marie 375 Eindhoven Museum 368
Medemblik 182, 184 De Moriaan (s-Hertogenbosch) 362, Elektrische Museumtramlijn
Medical treatment 4367 366 (Amstelveen) 193
Meerssen 354, 384 Morris, Robert, Observatorium 333 Escher in het Paleis (The Hague) 13,
Meezing Matthus 36 Mosquitoes 437 222, 225
Megaliths 46 Mosselfeesten (Yerseke) 37 Fotomuseum (The Hague) 13, 228
Borger 314 Motor racing, Circuit Park Zandvoort Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) 10, 14,
buidling 310 192 188, 19091
Diever 315 Motorcycle racing, Circuit van Assen 312 Fries Museum (Leeuwarden) 15, 300
Drenthe 263, 306, 307, 308 Motorways 4445 Fries Scheepvaart Museum (Sneek) 303
Langgraf op de Schimmer Es Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 188 Galerij Prins Willem V (The Hague)
(Emmen) 315 Mozes en Aronkerk (Amsterdam) 81 222, 224
megalith route (Drenthe) 31011 Mud flats Gemeentelijk Archeologisch Museum
Nationaal Hunebedden Waddencentrum (Pieterburen) 291 (Aardenburg) 259
Informatiecentrum (Borger) 311, 314 Waddenzee 2745 Gemeentemuseum (Elburg) 16, 340
Norg 312 Muiden 194 Gemeentemuseum (Helmond) 369
Meier, Richard 222 Muiderkring 55, 194 Gemeentemuseum Den Haag (The
Meij, JM van der 147 Muiderpoort (Amsterdam) 138 Hague) 13, 228
460 GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Goemanszorg (Bruinisse) 257 Museum Elisabeth Weeshuis Nationaal Luchtvaart Themapark
Grafisch Museum (Zutphen) 345 (Culemborg) 349 Aviodrome (Lelystadt) 331
Groninger Museum (Groningen) 11, Museum Flehite (Amersfoort) 210 Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot
15, 263, 2889 Museum Freriks (Winterswijk) 346 Pierement (Utrecht) 13, 207
De Groote Sociteit (Tiel) 348 Museum De Gevangenpoort Nationaal Rijtuigmuseum (Leek) 290
Haags Historisch Museum (The (The Hague) 224 Nationaal Tinnen Figuren Museum
Hague) 223 Museum voor Glaskunst (Vledder) 315 (Ommen) 324
De Hallen (Haarlem) 1889 Museum Gouda 243 Naturalis Biodiversity Center (Leiden)
Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Museum Haarlem 189 221
(Amsterdam) 76, 79 Museum voor Hedendaagse Grafiek Natuurhistorisch Museum
Hermitage Amsterdam 144 (Vledder) 315 (Maastricht) 380
Historisch Museum Apeldoorn 340 Museum Hidde Nijland Stichting Natuurmuseum Dokkum 300, 301
Historisch Museum Den Briel (Brielle) (Hindeloopen) 302 Natuurmuseum Frysln
245 Museum Hilversum 195 (Leeuwarden) 300
Historisch Museum De Waag Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden) 220 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum
(Deventer) 17, 324 Museum Martena (Franeker) 301 (Utrecht) 205, 207
Huis Simon van Gijn (Dordrecht) Museum Nagele 330 Het Nederlands
244 Museum Ons Lieve Heer Op Solder Stoommachinemuseum
Ikonenmuseum (Kampen) 17, 321 (Amsterdam) 95 (Medemblik) 182
Internationaal Klompenmuseum Museum Het Oude Raadhuis (Urk) Nederlands Textielmuseum (Tilburg)
(Eelde) 313 330 366
Jenever Museum (Schiedam) 233 Museum voor Papierknipkunst Nederlands Vestingmuseum
Joods Historisch Museum (Westerbork) 314 (Naarden) 194
(Amsterdam) 71, 81 Museum het Rembrandthuis NEMO Science Museum
Jopie Huisman Museum (Workum) (Amsterdam) 69, 77, 82 (Amsterdam) 71, 14041
302 Museum Schokland 11, 16, 330 Nieuw Land Erfgoedcentrum
Kaasmuseum (Alkmaar) 185 Museum Simon van Gijn (Dordrecht) (Lelystad) 331
Kaatsmuseum (Franeker) 301 14 Het Nieuwe Instituut (Rotterdam) 237
Kamper Tabaksmuseum (Kampen) Museum Slag bij Heiligerlee 292 NISA (Netherlands Institute for
321 Museum Slager (s-Hertogenbosch) Submarine Archaeology) 331
Kattenkabinet (Amsterdam) 106 366 Noordbrabants Museum
Kinderkunsthal Villa Zebra Museum Spaans Gouvernement (s-Hertogenbosch) 363, 366
(Rotterdam) 237 (Maastricht) 381 Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum
Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam) 12, 68, Museum Spakenburg (Bunschoten- (Groningen) 287
69, 71, 89, 923 Spakenburg) 203 Olde Maat Uus (Giethoorn) 322
Krller-Mller Museum (Otterlo) 11, Museum Staphorst 324 Oorlogs en Verzetsmuseum
17, 3423 Museum Stedhs Sleat (Sloten) 303 (Overloon) 374
Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 237 Museum Stoomgemaal (Winschoten) Openluchtmuseum (Arnhem) 344
Kunsthal KAdE (Amersfoort) 210 292 Openluchtmuseum Los Hoes
Landgoed Anningahof 320 Museum van der Togt (Amstelveen) (Ootmarsum) 317, 325
Laterna Magica (Sloten) 303 193 Orvelte Open-air Museum 314
Limburgs Museum (Venlo) 374 Museum van de Twintigste Eeuw Oudheidkamer (Bolsward) 301
Maarten van Rossummuseum (Hoorn) 182 Oudheidkamer (Den Burg) 276
(Zaltbommel) 349 Museum Het Valkhof (Nijmegen) 347 Oudheidkamer (Nunspeet) 340
Marinemuseum (Den Helder) 182 Museum voor Valse Kunst (Vledder) Paleis aan de Blijmarkt (Zwolle) 16,
Marker Museum (Marken) 16, 178 315 320
Markiezenhof (Bergen op Zoom) 360, Museum Van Bommel-Van Dam Paleis Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 263,
367 (Venlo) 374 3389
Mauritshuis (The Hague) 12, 166, 223, Museum Van Loon (Amsterdam) 12, Panorama Mesdag (The Hague) 214,
2267 119 228
Mauritshuis (Willemstad) 367 Museum Volkenkunde (Leiden) 221 Pharmacy Museum (Maarssen) 202
Molenmuseum (Koog a/d Zaan) 179 Museum voor de Volkshuisvesting Philips Museum (Eindhoven) 368
Mondriaanhuis voor Constructieve (Amsterdam) 147 Pluimveemuseum (Barneveld) 341
en Concrete Kunst (Amersfoort) 11, Museum Warkums Erfskip (Workum) Polderhuis Dijk en Oorlogsmuseum
16, 210 302 (Westkapelle) 255
Museonder (Otterlo) 17, 343 Museum Watersnood 1953 Het Princessehof (Leeuwarden) 15,
Museum De Baracquen (Bourtange) (Ouwerkerk) 256 300
293 Museum De Wieger (Deurne) 369 Reddingsmuseum Abraham Fock
Museum Beelden aan Zee Museum Willet-Holthuysen (Ameland) 279
(Scheveningen) 13, 229 (Amsterdam) 118 t Regthuys (Abbekerk) 184
Museum t Behouden Huys Museum De Zwarte Tulp (Lisse) 217 Rietveld Schrder-Huis (Utrecht) 13,
(Terschelling) 15, 278 Museum-klooster Ter Apel 293 167, 2089
Museum Betje Wolff 179 Muzee Scheveningen Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 12, 70,
Museum Boerhaave (Leiden) 22021 (Scheveningen) 229 123, 1269
Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen Nairac museum (Barneveld) 341 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (Leiden)
(Rotterdam) 14, 2389 Nationaal Biermuseum De Boom 10, 14, 218, 221
Museum Bredius (The Hague) 12, 224 (Alkmaar) 185 Rijksmuseum Twenthe (Enschede)
Museum De Buitenplaats (Eelde- Nationaal Brandweermuseum 325
Paterswolde) 313 (Hellevoetsluis) 245 De Roode Toren (Doesburg) 346
Museum Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) Nationaal Glasmuseum (Leerdam) Scheepvaart Museum (Amsterdam)
13, 205, 206 244 69, 71, 1367
GENERAL INDEX 461
Museums and galleries (cont.) Muurhuizen (Amersfoort) 210 Neo-Gothic style 354
De Schippersbeurs (Elsoo) 383 Muziektheater (Amsterdam) 81, 150, Nes (Ameland) 15, 278
Singer Museum (Laren) 195 153 Nes (Amsterdam) 89, 90
Stadhuismuseum (Zierikzee) 256 My Domestic Companions (van Duyl Netherlands Board of Tourism (NBT)
Stedelijk Museum (Alkmaar) 185 Schwartze) 108 432, 433
Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam) 12, New Years Eve 39
70, 122, 1323 N The Newly Built Town Hall on the River
Stedelijk Museum (Schiedam) 233 Naald van Waterloo 203 Amstel (van der Heyden) 93
Stedelijk Museum (Zutphen) 345 Naarden 194 Newspapers 149, 435
Stedelijk Museum Drenthes Veste Naardermeer 195 Ney, Laurent 136
(Coevorden) 315 Nagele 330 Nicolaas, St 89, 95
Stedelijk Museum Kampen 17, 321 Napoleon I, Emperor 43, 59, 97, 138 Nicolas, Joep 375
Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof Nassau, Count Adolf of 292 Niemann, Gunda 304
(Delft) 14, 230, 232 Nassau, counts of 300 Nieuw Holland 171
Stedelijk Museum Zwolle 16, 320 Nassau, Prince Johan Maurits of 166, The Nieuwe Amsterdammer (magazine)
Stoomgemaal De Cruquius 224, 226 107
(Haarlemmermeer) 1923, 216 Nationaal Hunebedden Nieuwe Bouwen 167, 330
Stoommachinemuseum (Medemblik) Informatiecentrum (Borger) 311, 314 Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie 201, 244,
184 Nationaal Luchtvaart Themapark 349
Streekmuseum De Meestoof Aviodrome (Lelystadt) 331 Het Nieuwe Instituut (Rotterdam)
(St Annaland) 257 Nationaal Monument (Amsterdam) 12, 237
Tabaksteelt Museum (Amerongen) 89, 90 Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 12, 68, 90,
211 Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot 424, 425
Terra Maris (near Domburg) 255 Pierement (Utrecht) 13, 207 street-by-street map 89
Teylers Museum (Haarlem) 14, 187, 189 National parks Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 14, 231, 232
Thermenmuseum (Heerlen) 382 Drents-Friese Woud 295, 305, 315 Nieuwe Maas 26
Tromps Huys (Vlieland) 15, 277 Dwingelderveld 314 Nieuwe Pekela 293
Tropenmuseum (Amsterdam) 144 De Grote Peel 359, 372, 375 Nieuwe Waterweg 245, 256
Universiteitsmuseum (Utrecht) 207 De Hoge Veluwe 11, 17, 2667, 337, Nieuwe Zijde (Amsterdam) 8697
Us Heit Bierbrouwerij (Bolsward) 301 343 map 87
Van Abbemuseum (Eindhoven) 352, Landgoed De Hamert 374 street-by-street 889
368 Lauwersmeer 290 Nieuwendijk, hotels 401
Van Gogh Huis (Veenoord) 315 De Meinweg 375 Nieuwenhuis, Domela 59
Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 12, Schiermonnikoog 279 Nieuwjaarsduik (Scheveningen) 39
70, 122, 13031 Zuid-Kennemerland 172 Nieuwkerken, MA and J 144
Veenkoloniaal Museum (Veendam) Nationale Molendag 36 Nieuwkoopse Lake 170
293 Nationale Vlootdagen (Den Helder) 37 Nieuwmarkt (Amsterdam) 77, 79
Veenpark (Barger-Compascuum) 315 NATO 63 Nieuwpoort 243
Velorama National Bicycle Museum La Natura larte del Numero (Merz) The Night Watch (Rembrandt) 55, 120,
(Nijmegen) 347 378 127, 128
Veluws Museum (Harderwijk) 341 Natural gas 275, 281, 292 Nijhoff, Martinus 369
Vermeer Centrum Delft 233 Naturalis Biodiversity Center (Leiden) Nijkerk 341
Verzetsmuseum (Amsterdam) 71, 145 221 Nijmeegse Kermis 38
Verzetsmuseum Friesland Nature camping 3945 Nijmegen 334, 335, 3467
(Leeuwarden) 300 Nature reserves festivals 38, 347, 348
Vincentre (Nuenen) 369 Botshol 200 hotels 401
Voerman Museum (Hattem) 340 dunes 172 restaurants 414
war museum (Fort Veldhuis, environmental policy 2645 Nijsinghuis (Eelde-Paterswolde) 313
Heemskerk) 192 De Manteling 255 Nijverdal 3245
Waterlandsmuseum de Speeltoren Naardermeer 195 NISA (Netherlands Institute for
(Monnickendam) 178 Oostvaardersplassen 332 Submarine Archaeology) 331
Werfmuseum t Kromhout Rottumeroog 279 Nisse 247, 258
(Amsterdam) 139 De Weerribben 16, 321 Noordbrabants Museum
Westfries Museum (Hoorn) 15, 182 Wilgenreservaat (Knardijk) 332 (s-Hertogenbosch) 363, 366
Zaans Museum (Zaanse Schans) 179 Natuuractiviteitcentrum De Weeribben Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum
Zeeuws Museum (Middelburg) 254 321 (Groningen) 287
Zepallon (Lelystad) 331 Natuurbeleidsplan 2645 Noorderhaaks 276
De Zeven Marken (Schoonoord) 310 Natuurhistorisch Museum (Maastricht) Noorderhaven (Harlingen) 296, 301
Zoutmuseum (Delden) 325 380 Noorderkerk (Amsterdam) 115
Zuiderzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 11, Natuurinformatiecentrum Ommen Noordermarkt (Amsterdam) 115, 149
15, 167, 18081 324 Noordersluis (IJmuiden) 192
Music 4225 Neanderthals 46 Noordlaren, restaurants 413
Amsterdam 15051, 153 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum Noordoostpolder 327, 330
church music 424, 425 (Utrecht) 205, 207 Noordwijk 213
festivals 36, 37, 38, 39 Het Nederlands restaurants 411
jazz 15051, 153, 424, 425 Stoommachinemuseum Noordwijk Space Expo 427
opera 150, 153, 424, 425 (Medemblik) 182 Norg 310, 312
orchestral, chamber and choir music Neeltje Jans 250, 251 hotels 400
4234, 425 Negen Bergen (Norg) 310, 312 North Brabant 35869
rock and pop 424, 425 Nehalennia 254 hotels 401
world music 15051, 153 NEMO Science Museum (Amsterdam) map 36061
Musicals 422, 425 71, 14041 restaurants 41415
462 GENERAL INDEX
North Holland 17495 Ortelius, Abraham 43 Parks and gardens (cont.)

hotels 397 Orvelte 307, 314 Japanese Garden (The Hague) 228,
map 1767 Ossendrecht, hotels 401 229
restaurants 40910 Otterlo, hotels 401 Kasteeltuinen (Arcen) 353, 374
North Sea Canal 175, 192 Otto I of Germany 44 Keukenhof 10, 14, 36, 216, 217
North Sea Jazz (Rotterdam) 37 Otto II, Count of Gelre 341 Krentenbossen (Dwingeloo) 314
Northern and Eastern Netherlands Oud, JJP 62, 90 Kronenburgerpark (Nijmegen) 347
260349 Oud-Limburgs Schutterfeest 37 Linnaeushof (Bennebroek) 216, 427
Drenthe 30615 Oude Hollandse Waterlinie 201 Natuurpark Lelystad 331
Flevoland 32633 Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 74, 845, Old Botanical Garden (Utrecht) 207
Friesland 294305 424, 425 Orchid garden (Gerendal) 384
Gelderland 33449 Oude Kerk (Delft) 14, 230, 232 Paleis Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 339
The Great Rivers 348 Oude Pekela 293 Park Clingendael (The Hague) 2289
Groningen 28093 Oude Venen 305 Prinsenhoftuin (Groningen) 15, 284,
landscapes 2667 Oude Zijde (Amsterdam) 7485 287
map 2623 map 75 Sonsbeek (Arnhem) 344
Overijssel 31625 University District street-by-street Tuinen Kasteel Twickel (Delden) 325
A Week in the North and the Islands 767 Von Gimborn Arboretum (Doorn)
11, 15 Oudegracht (Utrecht) 13, 55, 204, 204, 21011
West Frisian Islands 26879 207 Vondelpark (Amsterdam) 12, 1245
Northern Lights 299 Oudemanhuispoort (Amsterdam) 76, Zypendaal 344
Nuenen 369 79 see also Amusement and theme
restaurants 415 Oudemirdum 303 parks; National parks
Nunspeet 340 Oudemirdumerklif (Gaasterland) 302 Parma, Duke of 381
Oudenbosch 355, 358, 367 Pasar Malam Besar (The Hague) 37
O Ouderkerk aan de Amstel 193 Passage (The Hague) 225, 421
Observatorium Robert Morris 333 restaurants 410 Passports 434
Odoorn 313 Oudewater 198, 201 Pater Vinktoren (Maastricht) 380
Het Oerd (Ameland) 278 Ouwehands Dierenpark (Rhenen) 211 Paterswoldse Meer 282, 313
Oerol Festival (Terschelling) 37, 278 Ouwerkerk, restaurants 412 Peat 213, 266
Oisterwijk, hotels 401 OV chipkaart 447 Amsterdamsche Veld 315
Olde Maat Uus (Giethoorn) 322 Overijssel 46, 262, 31625 Drenthe 307, 309
Oldehove (Leeuwarden) 300 hotels 400 Giethoorn 3223
Oldenaller 341 landscape 266 Oude Venen 305
Oldenbarnevelt, Johan van 53 map 31819 Veenkoloniaal Museum (Veendam)
Olympic Stadium (Amsterdam) 152, restaurants 41314 293
153 Overloon 374 Vinkeveense 200
OMA 237 Oyster farming 258 Weert 375
Ome Loeks horse (statue, de Baat) 285 Peat Boat with Two Figures (van Gogh)
Ommen 324 P 315
Omniversum (The Hague) 228 Palaces The Pedlar (Bosch) 239
Onder de Linden Chapel (Thorn) 354 Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam) 12, 89, Peel 359
5, 382 923 Prez, Asela, Solidaridad con America
Ons Lieve Heer op Solder (Amsterdam) Paleis Lange Voorhout (The Hague) Latina 132
57, 95 222, 225 Pernis (Rotterdam) 240
Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren (Amersfoort) Paleis Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 13, 263, Personal security 4367
210 3389 Peter the Great, Tsar 55, 105, 108
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek Paleis Noordeinde (The Hague) 225 Czaar-Peterhuisje (Zaandam) 179
(Maastricht) 377, 380, 381 Paleis Soestdijk 199, 203 Peters, CP 94
Oorlogs en Verzetsmuseum (Overloon) Het Princessehof (Leeuwarden) 300 La Petite Danseuse (Degas) 239
374 Prinsenhof (Groningen) 287 Pets, immunization 435
Oost-Vlieland 15, 277 Vredespaleis (The Hague) 225 Peutz, FPJ 382
Oosterschelde 258 Paleis aan de Blijmarkt (Zwolle) 16, 317, Pfeffer, Fritz 112, 113
Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering 166, 320 Pharmacies 436
25051 Paltrok windmills 29 Philip II of Spain 43, 45, 53, 54, 232,
Oostvaardersplassen 266, 332 Pannerdens Canal 27 242
Oostvoorne, restaurants 411 Panorama Mesdag (The Hague) 13, Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy 44,
Oostzaanen, Jacob Cornelisz van 132, 214, 228 51
185 Panorama Tulip Land (Voorhourt) 216 Philip the Handsome, Duke of
Ootmarsum 325 De Papeloze Kerk 306, 311 Burgundy 45
Ooypolder 347 Parking 445 Philips (Eindhoven) 368
Opening hours 433 Parks and gardens Philips Stadion (Eindhoven) 368
banks 433, 438 Deltapark Neeltje Jans Phrase book 4712
museums 433 (Vrouwenpolder) 250 Piano, Renzo 140
restaurants 4023 Ecodrome Park (Zwolle) 317, 320 Picasso, Pablo 132, 320
shops 148, 433 Fraeylemaborg 292 Woman in Green 368
Openluchtmuseum Los Hoes Gesteentetuin (Schokland) 330 Pieck, Anton 340
(Ootmarsum) 317, 325 s-Graveland 194 Pieke, sculpture of (Maastricht) 376
Opera 150, 153, 424, 425 herb garden (Ter Apel monastery) Piero di Cosimo 128
Orange, House of 445, 589, 338, 349 293 Pierson, Allard 94
tombs (Nieuwe Kerk, Delft) 232 Hortus Botanicus Leiden 14, 218, 220 Piet (after Delacroix) (van Gogh) 131
Organs, church 84, 187, 188, 424 Hortus Haren (Haren) 287 Pieterburen 15, 281, 291
GENERAL INDEX 463
Pieterskerk (Leiden) 14, 219, 221 R Restaurants 40215

Pilgrim fathers 91, 221, 236 Raadhuis (Hilversum) 195 Amsterdam 4069
Pingjum 301 Raadhuis (Rhenen) 211 disabled travellers 403
Pinto, Isaac de 82 Radboud, King of the Frisians 44, 49, Drenthe 413
Pintohuis (Amsterdam) 82 295 drinks 403
Pippin II, King of the Franks 49 Radio 4345 eetcafs 402
Planetarium (Amsterdam) 142 Raedecker, John 90 etiquette 403
Planetarium Friesland (Franeker) 294, Raey, Jeremias van 119 The Flavours of the Netherlands 4045
301 Rail taxis 447 Flevoland 414
Planetron (Dwingeloo) 314 Rail travel 444, 445, 446 Friesland 413
Plesman, Albert 170 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum Gelderland 414
Pliny 327 (Utrecht) 205, 207 Groningen 41213
De Ploeg 289 steam trains 446 Indonesian food 405
Plompe Toren (Koudekerke, to/from airport 443 Limburg 415
Westerschouwen) 256 Rambling 4289 North Brabant 41415
Poetry International (Rotterdam) 37 The Randstad 22, 17071 North Holland 40910
Poezenboot (Amsterdam) 67 Rauws, Cornelis 138 opening hours 4023
Polder mills 183 Ravensbrck monument (Amsterdam) Overijssel 41314
Polders 1689, 183, 266, 327 123 prices 403
Poldertoren (Emmeloord) 330 Ravenswoud 305 reservations 403
Police 436, 437 Ravesteyn, Sybold van 236 South Holland 41011
Politics 224 Reaal, Jacobsz 115 tipping 403
Pompe, Walter, Four putti 366 Realeneiland (Amsterdam) 115 types of 402
Pop music 15051, 153, 424, 425 Reclaimed land 21, 26, 1689 Utrecht 410
Population 21 Flevoland 327, 330 vegetarian 402
Porcelain see Ceramics North Holland 175 West Frisian Islands 412
De Porceleyne Fles 32, 233 Zeeland 247 Zeeland 41112
Port of Rotterdam 24041 Red Blue Chair (Rietveld) 132, 209 see also Food and drink
Port Zlande 392 Red Light District (Amsterdam) 76, 78 Rhenen 198, 211
Portrait of the Artist with Seven Fingers Reest, river 319 Rhine, river 21, 22, 348
(Chagall) 132 Reeuwijkse Plassen 243 Rhine delta 213
Portrait of a Family Making Music (De Reformation 567 as Roman frontier 43, 46, 359
Hooch) 545 Reguliers Monastery (Amsterdam) 109 Utrecht province 197, 211
Portugees-Isralitische Synagoge Reguliersgracht (Amsterdam) 67, Ridderzaal (The Hague) 12, 224
(Amsterdam) 82 1069 Riebeeck, Jan van 52, 61, 349
Posbank (Rheden) 266, 344 Reijnders, HCH 235 Rietveld, Gerrit 103, 204, 206, 330
Post, Pieter 166, 226, 369, 377 Reinald I, Count of Gelre 44 Red Blue Chair 132, 209
Postal services 441 Religion 223 Rietveld Schrderhuis (Utrecht) 13,
Posthuys (Vlieland) 277 Catholicism and Devotion 3545 167, 2089
Pot, HG 55 Rembrandt Steltman chair 70
Floras Bandwagon 69 The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 130
Het Potlood (Rotterdam) 234, 235 78, 96 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 12, 70, 123,
Potter, Paulus 224 The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes 1269
Pottery see Ceramics Tulp 78, 226 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (Leiden)
Prehistory 467 birthplace 218 10, 14, 218, 221
megalith route 31011 Galerij Prins Willem V (The Hague) Rijsterbos (Gaasterland) 3023
Preuvenemint (Maastricht) 37 224 Rijsttafel 405
Prins, Anthony Winkler 293 grave of 114 Ritman, JR 115
Prins, J 108 The Jewish Bride 3031, 128 Ritsma, Rintje 304
Prinsehuis (Hellevoetsluis) 245 Mauritshuis (The Hague) 166, 226 Rivers
Prinseneiland (Amsterdam) 115 Montelbaanstoren (Amsterdam) 82 dykes 27
Prinsengracht (Amsterdam) 66, Museum Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) The Great Rivers 348
1069 206 Road travel 4445
Prinsenhof (Groningen) 15, 284, 287 Museum de Lakenhal (Leiden) 220 Robinson, John 221
Prinsenhoftuin (Groningen) 287 Museum het Rembrandthuis Rock music 424, 425
Prinsjesdag (The Hague) 38, 213 (Amsterdam) 69, 77, 82 Rode Klif (Gaasterland) 302
Prix, Wolfgang 288 The Night Watch 55, 120, 127, 128 Roden, restaurants 413
Prostitution 24 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 128, 129 Roderesch, restaurants 413
Red Light District (Amsterdam) 76, Saskia in Bed 289 Rodin, Auguste 320, 342
78 Self-Portrait 77 Roermond 354, 375
Protestantism 223, 567 Self-Portrait as the Apostle Paul 68, festivals 39
Public toilets 434 128 hotels 401
Public transport 4467 Self-Portrait with Saskia 82 Rolde 314
bicycles on 448 statue of 118 Roman, Jacob 263, 338
Puritans 220, 221 Teylers Museum (Haarlem) 189 Romans 43, 467, 48
Putten 341 Titus at his Desk 239 Aardenburg 259
PvDA (Labour Party) 23, 24 Rembrandtplein (Amsterdam) 118 Limburg 371, 376, 380, 382, 383
PVV (Party for Freedom) 24, 63 Remonstrants 57 Middelburg 254
Renselaer, Kiliaen van 341 Nijmegen 347
Q Reptielenzoo Iguana (Vlissingen) 255 and the Rhine 43, 46, 197, 359
Quellien, Artus, Apollo 69 Republic of the Seven United Utrecht 197, 206
Quist, Wim 229, 235 Netherlands 54, 58 Velsen 192
464 GENERAL INDEX
Romans (cont.) Scheepvaart Museum (Amsterdam) 69, Simons, Menno 301

Zeeland 247 71, 1367 Simpelveld Sarcophagus 47
Ronde Lutherse Kerk (Amsterdam) 94 Scheepvaarthuis (Amsterdam) 823, Singel (Amsterdam) 67, 102, 103
Rossi, Aldo 353, 3789 1467 Singelgracht (Amsterdam) 116
Rossige, Gerard de 335 Schelde, river 247 Singer, W 195
Rossum, Maarten van 344 Schellinkhout 184 Sint, see also Churches; St
Maarten van Rossummuseum Schermer 183 Sint Jansberg (Mook) 374
(Zaltbommel) 349 Scheveningen 21, 22, 171, 213, 229 Sint Maartensdijk, hotels 398
Rotating Door of the Post Office festivals 36, 38, 39 Sint-Maarten, festivals 38
(Werkman) 289 history 589 Sint-Michielsgestel 355
Rotterdam 22, 170, 213, 23441 hotels 398 Sinterklaasavond 39, 95
airport 443, 445 itineraries 13 Sittard 382
bombing of 62, 234 Panorama Mesdag 228 hotels 401
City of Water 24041 restaurants 411 Six, Jan 107
festivals 37 Schiedam 233 Skating see Ice-skating
hotels 398 Schielandhuis (Rotterdam) 234 Skeen 298
itineraries 10, 14 Schiermonnikoog 269, 271, 279 Slager family 366
map 237 hotels 398 Slauerhoff, Jan Jacob 300
public transport 4467 restaurants 412 Slave trade 52, 59, 6061
restaurants 411 Schildmeer 292 Slegers, Piet 333
street-by-street 2345 Het Schip (Amsterdam) 147 Slenaken, restaurants 415
tourist information 433 Schiphol Airport 171, 175, 4423, 445 Slochteren 281, 292
Rottumeroog 269, 279 lost property office 437 Sloepenrace 37
Rottumerplaat 269, 279 Schipluiden, restaurants 411 Slot see Castles and fortifications
Royal Dutch Glass Factory (Leerdam) 244 Schokland 11, 16, 168, 327, 330 Sloten 296, 298, 303
Rozenberg, Dirk 368 Schools controversy 59 De Slufter (Texel) 277
Rubens, Peter Paul, Cimon and Pero 378 Schotse Huizen (Veere) 255 Sluipwijk 243
Ruisdael, Jacob van 128 Schouten, Gerrit 144 Sluis 259
View of Haarlem 30 Schouten, Revd Leendert 117 hotels 398
The Windmill at Wijk 199 Schouten, Willem 52, 53 Sluyters 366
Rulers of the Netherlands 445 Schreierstoren (Amsterdam) 85 Sneek 15, 303
Ruyter, Admiral Michiel de 54, 55, 245, Schuitje sailing 303 restaurants 413
255 Scorel, Jan van 128, 204, 206 Socialism 22, 23
The Batavia 262 Sculpture parks see Museums and Society 223
memorial (Nieuwe Kerk, Amsterdam) 90 galleries Soest 203
portrait 137 Sea Life Scheveningen 229 Soestdijk 199, 203
Seals 15, 291 Soeters, Sjoerd 138
S Seghers, Hercules 129 Solidaridad con America Latina (Prez)
Saenredam, Pieter 128, 188 Self-Portrait (Malevich) 133 132
Interior of the Sint-Odolphuskerk in Self-Portrait (Rembrandt) 77 Someren 47
Assendelft 57 Self-Portrait as the Apostle Paul Sonoy 192
Safety 4367 (Rembrandt) 68, 128 South Holland 21245
cycling 448 Self-Portrait with Saskia (Rembrandt) 82 floods (1953) 62
travel safety advice 434, 435 Semper, Gottfried 146 hotels 3978
Sailing 428 Serra, Richard 342 maps 21415
schuitje sailing 303 Servatius, St, reliquary of 381 restaurants 41011
Waddenzee 274 Seven Years War 58 Southern Netherlands 35085
St Anna-te-Drien (van Steffensweert) 378 Shakespeare-markten (Diever) 315 Carnival 3567
St-Anna-ter-Muiden 247, 259 Shellfish industry 275 Catholicism and Devotion 3545
St. Annaland 257 Ships see Boats and ships Limburg 37085
St Catherine (Master of Koudewater) 127 Shopping 41621 map 3523
St Elizabeths Day Flood 126, 128 Amsterdam 1489 North Brabant 35869
St-Felixstormvloed (1530) 258 antiques 416, 421 A Week in the South 10, 14
St Geertruidshofje (Groningen) 285, 286 auctions and sales houses 417, 421 The Sower at Arles (van Gogh) 102
St-Jorisdoelen (Middelburg) 252 books and newspapers 149 Spaarne, river 187, 189
St Luke Painting the Virgin and Child chocolate 417, 421 Spanish rule 53, 54, 220
(Heemskerck) 191 department stores and malls 148, Brabant 359, 367
St Maartensdijk 257 149, 417, 421 Limburg 371
St-Servaasbasiliek (Maastricht) 380, 381 fashion 148, 416 Spas 374
St Servaasbrug (Maastricht) 377 furniture 417, 421 Speed limits 445
St Stephen (del Biondo) 379 garden centres 417 Spice trade 69
Sales 148 how to pay 148 Spido tour (Rotterdam) 241
Sallandse Heuvelrug 17, 317, 3245 opening hours 148, 433 Spinetti 375
Same-sex marriage 24, 63 sales 148 Spinola, Ambrosio 367
Santpoort, restaurants 410 Schiphol Airport 443 Spinoza, Baruch 55
Saskia in Bed (Rembrandt) 289 specialist shops 149 Sports 4289
Sassenheim 216 tea and coffee 417, 421 spectator 152, 153
Saxons 43, 489 VAT exemption 148 Spring 367
Schaepman, HJAM 59 What to Buy in Holland 41820 Springer, Jan 116
Schaffelaar, Jan van 341 see also Markets Spuikwartier (The Hague) 222
Scheepswerf De Schelde (Vlissingen) Siebold, Philipp von 221 Staal, JF 146
255 Sijmons, KL 104 Stadhuis (Arnhem) 17
GENERAL INDEX 465
Stadhuis (Delft) 231 T Tours by car (cont.)

Stadhuis (Franeker) 301 Tasman, Abel 52, 53, 290 Heuvelland 3845
Stadhuis (Gouda) 14, 215, 243 Abel Tasmankabinet (Grootegast) 290 megalith route 31011
Stadhuis (Groningen) 284 Taxes, VAT 148 West Friesland 184
Stadhuis (Haarlem) 186, 188 Taxis 447 see also Itineraries
Stadhuis (s-Hertogenbosch) 363 tipping 434 Tours, cycling 11, 17, 449
Stadhuis (Lochem) 345 to/from airport 443 The Tower of Babel (Brueghel) 239
Stadhuis (Maastricht) 377 Tea, shopping for 417, 421 Towns, medieval 5051
Stadhuis (Middelburg) 252 Telephones 440 Trading Empire, Dutch 523, 54
Stadhuis (Sluis) 259 Television 4345 Trains see Rail travel
Stadhuis (Veere) 247, 255 Teniers, David 366 Trajan, Emperor 347
Stadhuis-Muziektheather (Amsterdam) Tennis 429 Trams 4467
81 Tepe, Alfred 117 Transferium (park-and-ride) 170
Stadsarchief (Amsterdam) 117 Ter Apel 293 Travel 4429
Stadsschouwburg (Amsterdam) 116, ter Borch, Gerard 68, 127, 128 air 4423, 445
151, 422, 424, 425 The Louse Hunt 227 buses 445, 446
Stalpaert, Danil 105, 136 Ternaard, hotels 399 cars 4445
Staphorst 16, 324 Terneuzen 259 coaches 444
Staring, ACW 345 Terps 251, 281, 297, 300 cycling 4489
Statenzaal (Dordrecht) 244 Terschelling 15, 37, 269, 271, 278 Drenthe 309
States General 54, 362 hotels 398 ferries 271, 444, 445
Station Blaak (Rotterdam) 235 restaurants 412 Flevoland 329
Stavoren 298 Teuge, hotels 401 Friesland 296
hotels 399 Teutonic Order 369 Gelderland 337
Steam trains 446 Texel 266, 269, 271, 2767 Groningen (province) 282
Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam) 12, 70, hotels 399 Limburg 372
122, 1323 restaurants 412 Metro 447
Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof Teyler van der Hulst, Pieter 189 North Brabant 361
(Delft) 14, 230, 232 Teylers Museum (Haarlem) 14, 187, North Holland 176
Steen, Jan 68, 128, 166, 224 189 Overijssel 319
The Family Scene 31 Theatre 151, 153, 422, 425 public transport 4467
grave of 221 Theft 436 rail 444, 445, 446
The Way you Hear it is the Way You Theme parks see Amusement and rail taxis 447
Sing It 227 theme parks South Holland 214
Woman at her Toilet 127 Thermaalbad Arcen 374 taxis 447
Steenkolenmijn (Valkenburg) 383 Thermenmuseum (Heerlen) 382 tickets 447
Steffensweert, Jan van, St Anna-te- Thialfstadion (Heerenveen) 304 trams 4467
Drien 378 Tholen 257 travel safety advice 434, 435
Steinigeweg, W 116 Tholen (town) 257 Utrecht (province) 198
Stellingmolen 29, 301 Thooft, Joost 32 West Frisian Islands 271
De Stijl 62, 132, 208 Thorn 355, 382 Zeeland 248
Still Life with Flowers and Fruit (van Three Marys at the Open Sepulchre Travellers cheques 438
Huysum) 70, 129 (van Eyck) 238 Tree-top walk (Drents Boomkroonpad)
Stilleven (van Dyck) 190 Tickets 314
Stock exchange (Amsterdam) 52 for entertainment 150, 153 Trip, Catharina Elisabeth 119
Stone Age 46 entertainment 432, 433 Trip, Lodewijk and Hendrick 82
megaliths 31011 public transport 447 Trippenhuis (Amsterdam) 77, 82
Stoomgemaal De Cruquius 1923, 216 rail cards 444 Troelstra, Peter Jelles 300
Stoomgemaal Hertog Reijnout Tiel 3489 Tromp, Admiral Maarten 245
(Nijkerk) 341 festivals 38 Tromps Huys (Vlieland) 15, 277
Strabrechtse Heide 361 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 129 Troost, Cornelis 129
Streefkerk, restaurants 411 Tilburg 366 Tropenmuseum (Amsterdam) 144
Street furniture (Amsterdam) 147 Tilburgse kermis 37, 366 Tubbergen, hotels 400
De Struijs (Veere) 255 Tiles 323, 68 Tuindorp Watergraafsmeer
Struycken, Peter 237 Delft 68, 233 (Amsterdam) 146
The Studio Boat (Monet) 342 Time zone 434 Tulips 34, 35
Summer 37 Timmer, Marianne 304 bulb fields tour 21617
Sunflowers (van Gogh) 130 Tipping 434 Museum De Zwarte Tulp (Lisse)
Suriname 6061, 63 in restaurants 403 217
The Surrender of Breda (Velzquez) 367 Titus at his Desk (Rembrandt) 239 tulip mania 34, 69, 217
Suys, T the Elder 81 Tobacco Tumulibos (Rolde) 310, 314
Swammerdam, Jan 55 Kamper Tabaksmuseum (Kampen) Tuschinski, Abraham 119
Swanenburgh, IC 50 321 Tuschinski Theater (Amsterdam) 119,
Swiczinsky, Helmut 288 Tabaksteelt Museum (Amerongen) 152, 153
Swifterbant 331 211 Tweede Kamer (The Hague) 223
Swifterbant culture 331 Toilets, public 434 Twente 317, 325
Synagogues Toorop, Charley 369 Twisk 184
Grote Synagoge (Amsterdam) 81 Torensluis (Amsterdam) 94
Nieuwe Synagoge (Amsterdam) 81 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 129 U
Portugees-Isralitische Synagoge Tourist information 432 Ubachsberg, restaurants 415
(Amsterdam) 82 Tours by car Uddelermeer 340
bulb fields 21617 Uilenburg (s-Hertogenbosch) 366
466 GENERAL INDEX
Uithuizen 15, 291 Veere 247, 255 Vorden 345

Uitmarkt (Amsterdam) 37 Veerpoort (Heusden) 366 Vredespaleis (The Hague) 225
Universiteitsmuseum (Utrecht) 207 Vegetarian restaurants 402 Vreeland aan de Vecht, restaurants 410
University of Amsterdam 76, 79 Velzquez, Diego de Silva y, The Vries, Anne de 312
University District (Amsterdam), street- Surrender of Breda 367 Vrijman, Jan 62
by-street 767 Velsen 192 VVD (Liberal Party) 23, 24
University of Leiden 213, 220 Veluwe 335, 337, 343 VVV (tourist offices) 432, 433
University of Utrecht 197 Veluwemeer 340
Urk 180, 327, 328, 330 Venlo 36, 374 W
hotels 400 Venray 374 Waag (Amsterdam) 69, 77, 78
itineraries 11, 16 De Vergulde Ster (Amsterdam) 103 Waag (Edam) 178
restaurants 414 Verhulst, Rombout 90 Waag (Nijmegen) 347
Urnfields 467, 315 Vermaning, Tjerk 312 Waagebouw (Alkmaar) 185
Ursulinenhof (Weert) 375 Vermeer, Johannes 128, 166 Waal, river 22, 244, 347, 348, 359
Us Mem (statue) (Leeuwarden) 300 Girl with a Pearl Earring 227, 233 De Waalkade (Nijmegen) 25
Utrecht (city) 22, 1645, 170, 197, grave 232 De Waalse Kerk (Amsterdam) 76, 82,
2049 The Kitchen Maid 126, 128 424, 425
festivals 38 The Love Letter 68 Waddencentrum (Pieterburen) 291
history 54, 57, 58 Madame Tussauds Scenerama Waddeneilanden see West Frisian
hotels 397 (Amsterdam) 90 Islands
map 207 Vermeer Centrum Delft 233 Waddenzee 262, 266, 268, 269, 271,
restaurants 410 View of Delft 89, 231 2745
street-by-street 2045 View of Houses in Delft 31 birds 2723
tourist information 433 Verne, Jules 141 Waddencentrum (Pieterburen) 291
Two Days in Utrecht 10, 13 Verwey, Kees 188 Wagenaar, J. 109
Utrecht (province) 196211 De Verwoeste Stad (Zadkine) 234 Wageningen 341
Country Estates along the Vecht Verzetsmuseum (Amsterdam) 71, 145 Walcheren 2525, 258
202 Vianen, Adam van 31 Walem (Amsterdam) 72
hotels 397 Victory Boogie-Woogie (Mondriaan) 228 Walking 4289
map 1989 Vierdaagse (Nijmegen) 347, 348 Canal Walk (Amsterdam) 1029
restaurants 410 View on a City from a River (Jan Four Days Marches (Nijmegen) 347,
Utrecht, bishops of 44, 197, 201, 211, Brueghel the Elder) 379 348
243, 284 View of Delft (Vermeer) 89, 231 Waddenzee mud flats 275
Utrecht, Peace of (1713) 58 View of Haarlem (Ruisdael) 30 Wall plaques 101
Utrecht, Union of (1597) 57 View of Houses in Delft (Vermeer) 31 Walsum, Gerard van 236
Uylenburgh, Saskia van 84, 85, 80 View of Zwolle during the Hanseatic War of Austrian Succession 59
Period 320 Warfhuizen, hotels 399
V Vijlen 385 Warns, Battle of (1345) 295
Vaals 383 Vikings 49 Warrior (warship) 58
Valckert, Willem van, Giving the Bread Vincents Bedroom at Arles (van Gogh) Waterleidingduinen 264
69 130 Waterlooplein (Amsterdam) 81
Valkenburg 353, 370, 371, 373, 383 Vinckenbrink, Albert 90 Waterpoort (Heusden) 366
hotels 401 Vingboons, Justus 82 Watersports 428, 429
restaurants 415 Vingboons, Philips 101, 105, 117 Watteau, Antoine 129
Valkhof (Nijmegen) 347 Vinkeveense Plassen 170, 198, 200 The Way You Hear It Is the Way You Sing
van Gogh, Theo 130 Viollet-le-Duc, Eugne 146 It (Steen) 227
van Gogh, Theo (filmmaker) 63 Visas 434 Weather 4041
van Gogh, Vincent 59, 131, 320, 366 Vischpoort (Elburg) 340 The Wedding Portrait (Hals) 128
in Brabant 369 Vischpoort (Harderwijk) 341 De Weerribben 16, 317, 321
Caf Terrace at Night 343 Vlaggetjesdag (Scheveningen) 36 Weert 375
Krller-Mller Museum 342, 343 Vledder 315 Weesp porcelain 33
Peat Boat with Two Figures 315 Vleeshal (Haarlem) 186 Weissenbruch, Hendrik 129, 228
Piet (after Delacroix) 131 Vliegerfeest (Scheveningen) 38 Weissmann, AW 132
The Sower at Arles 102 De Vliehors (Vlieland) 277 Well, restaurants 415
Sunflowers 130 Vlieland 11, 15, 269, 271, 277 Wensum 282
Van Gogh Huis (Veenoord) 315 hotels 399 Werff, Adriaan van der 129
Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 12, restaurants 412 Werfmuseum t Kromhout
70, 122, 13031 Vlissingen 255 (Amsterdam) 139
Vincentre (Nuenen) 369 VOC see Dutch East India Company Werkman, HN, Rotating Door of the Post
Vincents Bedroom at Arles 130 Voerman, Jan, Voerman Museum Office 289
Wheatfield and Crows 131 (Hattem) 340 West Friesland 184
Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 12, Volendam 16, 175, 178 West Friesland Omringdijk 169, 184
70, 122, 13031 Vollenhove 16, 321 West Frisian Islands 262, 26879
Van Loon family 119 Voltaire 169 Birds of the Waddenzee 2723
Vase with Flowers (Bosschaert) 226 Von Gimborn Arboretum (Doorn) hotels 3989
VAT exemption 148 21011 landscape 266
Vater, Christiaan 84 Vondel, Joost van den 55, 1245 map 27071
Vecht, river 197, 200 Vondelkerk (Amsterdam) 125 restaurants 412
Country Estates along the Vecht 202 Vondelpark (Amsterdam) 12, 1245, A Week in the North and the Islands
Vechtvliet (Breukelen) 202 150, 153 11, 15
Veendam 293 Vondelparkpaviljoen (Amsterdam) 125 West-Terschelling 15
Veenhuizen, hotels 400 Voorhout 216 West-Vlieland 277
GENERAL INDEX 467
Westerbork 314 William VI, Count of Holland 44, 244 World War II (cont.)
Westerkerk (Amsterdam) 12, 110, 114, William Frederick, Prince of Orange Verzetsmuseum Friesland
424, 425 203, 287 (Leeuwarden) 300
Westerkerk (Ekels) 114 William of Orange, Stadholder 45 Worms, Concordat of (1122) 43
Western Islands (Amsterdam) 115 assassination of 54, 230, 232
Western Netherlands 164259 Bourtange 293 Y
dunes 1723 Leiden 220 Yab Yum brothel (Amsterdam) 103
map 1667 mausoleum (Delft) 232 Yerseke 249, 258
North Holland 17495 Middelburg Abbey 254 festivals 37
The Randstad 17071 Ridderzaal (The Hague) 224 Youth hostels 388
reclaimed land 1689 St Janskerk (Gouda) 242, 243
South Holland 21245 statue of 231 Z
Utrecht (province) 196211 Willemstad 367 Zaan region 179
windmills 183 Willibrord, Bishop of Utrecht 43, 49, Zaandam 175, 179
Zeeland 24659 197, 206 hotels 397
Westerschouwen 256 The Windmill at Wijk (Ruisdael) 199 Zaanse Schans 176, 179
Westerwolde 281 Windmills 289, 1689, 183 Zadkine, Ossip 369
Westkapelle 255 Dokkum 301 De Verwoeste Stad 234
Whaling 136, 269, 279 De Gooyer Windmill (Amsterdam) Zak van Zuid-Beveland 258
Wheatfield and Crows (van Gogh) 131 1389 Zaltbommel 349
Wheelchair access see Disabled Kinderdijk 10, 212, 244, 245 Zandvoort 192
travellers Molenmuseum (Koog a/d Zaan) 179 restaurants 410
Widukind 48 National Windmill Day 36 Zeedijk (Amsterdam) 85
Wiedersma, Henrik 369 Schiedam 233 Zeegse, hotels 400
Wieringen 181 Tjaskermolen (Giethoorn) 322 Zeehondencrche (Pieterburen) 15, 291
Wierum 296 Zaanse Schans 176, 179 Zeeland 24659
Wieuwerd 303 Wine floods (1953) 21, 62, 247, 250, 256
Wijk bij Duurstede 211 in restaurants 403 hotels 398
Wijmarsche water mill (Arcen) 374 Zuid Limburg 384 map 2489
Wilde, Jacob de 102 Winschoten 292 restaurants 41112
Wilders, Geert 24, 63 Winter 39 Zeeland-Flanders 48, 259
Wildlife Winter Landscape with Skaters Zeeuws Archief (Middleburg) 252
dunes 173 (Avercamp) 126 Zeeuws Museum (Middelburg) 254
EcoMare (Texel) 427 Winterswijk 335, 346 Zeewolde 333
environmental policy 2645 Wit, Jacob de 93, 103, 118 Zeist, hotels 397
Gelderse Poort 348 Witchcraft 198, 201 De Zeven Provincin (ship) 262, 331
Hertenhouderij Edelveen (Kampen) Witt, Cornelis de 54, 224 Zierikzee 247, 256
321 Witt, Johan de 54 Zocher, JD and LP 124, 199, 203, 204, 211
Noorder Dierenpark (Emmen) 315 Witte Dame (Eindhoven) 368 Zomercarnaval (Rotterdam) 37
Northern and Eastern Netherlands Witte Huis (Rotterdam) 235 Zoos
2667 Witte Wieven 310 Apenheul Primate Park (Apeldoorn) 340
Zeehondencrche (Pieterburen) 15, 291 Woerden 201 Aqua Zoo Friesland (Leeuwarden)
see also Aquariums; Birds; Nature Wolvega 297 426, 427
reserves; Zoos Woman at her Toilet (Steen) 127 Artis Royal Zoo (Amsterdam) 1423
Wilgenreservaat (Knardijk) 332 Woman in Green (Picasso) 368 Blijdorp (Rotterdam) 236
Wilhelm II, Kaiser 62, 210 Women, Children, Animals (Appel) 193 Burgers Zoo (Arnhem) 344, 426, 427
Wilhelmina, Queen 45, 90, 222, 338, Workum 298, 302 Natuurpark Lelystad 331
347 World music 15051, 153 Noorder Dierenpark (Emmen) 315
Wilhelmina of Prussia 58 World Port Days (Rotterdam) 241 Ouwehands Dierenpark (Rhenen) 211
Willem I, Count of Holland 44 World War I 43, 62 Reptielenzoo Iguana (Vlissingen) 255
Willem I, Duke of Gelre and Gulik 44 World War II 25, 43, 62 see also Aquariums; Nature reserves
Willem-Alexander, King 45, 63, 93, 225, Airgunnersmonument (Dronten) 331 Zoutkamp 181, 290
299 American War Cemetery (Margraten) Zoutsloot (Harlingen) 301
birthday 36 385 Zuid Limburg 46, 3845
Willemstad 367 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 12, 70, farmhouses 28
Willemswerf (Rotterdam) 235 110, 11213 Zuid-Kennemerland National Park 172
Willet, Abraham, Museum Willet- Arnhem 344 Zuiderkerk (Amsterdam) 77, 82
Holthuysen (Amsterdam) 118 De Gedachenisruimte (Putten) 341 Zuiderzee 168, 175, 179, 203, 327, 330
William I, King 43, 45, 589 Groesbeek 348 Zuiderzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 11, 15,
William II, Count of Holland 44, 50, 224 Groningen 286 16, 167, 18081
William II, King 45, 115, 203 Herinneringscentrum Kamp Zuidlaardermeer 313
William II, Stadholder 45, 55 Westerbork 314 Zuidlaren 307, 313
William III, King 45, 61, 291 Hotel de Wereld (Wageningen) 341 restaurants 413
William III, Stadholder (King of England) Kamp Amersfoort 210 Zuidoostbemster, hotels 397
45, 55, 58 Nationaal Monument (Amsterdam) Zuidplaspolder 26, 169
Paleis Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 263, 338, 340 89, 90 Zutphen 11, 17, 320, 335, 345
Paleis Sostdijk 203 Nijmegen 347 Zuylen, Belle van 200
William IV, Count of Holland 51 Oorlogs en Verzetsmuseum Zwanenbroedershuis
William IV, Stadholder 45, 58 (Overloon) 374 (s-Hertogenbosch) 363, 366
William the Silent see William of Park Clingendael (The Hague) 2289 Zwolle 11, 16, 17, 317, 320
Orange, Stadholder Rotterdam 234, 236 hotels 400
William V, Stadholder 45, 58, 224, 225 Verzetsmuseum (Amsterdam) 71, 145 restaurants 414
468 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people for Willemien Werkman is a historian and, after studying
their help in preparing this guide: the history of the Vecht estates, has devoted herself to translation
and editing.
For Dorling Kindersley
Translation from Dutch Mark Cole (Linguists for Business) Additional Contributors
Design and Editorial Assistance Jo Cowen, Jacky Jackson, Ian Paul Andrews, Hedda Archbold, Christopher Catling, Jaap
Midson, Conrad van Dyk, Stewart Wild Deinema, Marlene Edmunds, Adam Hopkins, Marten van de
Dtp Designers Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk Kraats, David Lindsey, Fred Mawer, Alison Melvin, Robin Pascoe,
Managing Editor Helen Townsend Catherine Stebbings, Richard Widdows, Stewart Wild. Other
Publishing Manager Jane Ewart contributions were taken from the Eyewitness Travel Guide
Amsterdam by Robin Pascoe and Christopher Catling, which
For International Book Productions
previously appeared in a translated and revised edition (Capitool
Proofreader Maraya Radhua
Reisgids Amsterdam) published by de Redactie, boekverzorgers.
Main Author
Gerard M L Harmans graduated in biology and philosophy Additional Illustrations
at the Vrije Universiteit (Amsterdam), and then chose to work in Peter de Vries, Mark Jurrins, Hilbert Bolland, Gieb van Enckevort,
publishing. He edited an encyclopaedia for Het Spectrum before Armand Haye and Stuart Commercial Artists: Jan Egas and
setting up an independent business with Paul Krijnen in 1989 Khoobie Verwer.
called de Redactie, boekverzorgers.
Additional Photography
Other Contributors Max Alexander, Ian OLeary, John Whittaker.
All contributors were selected from de Redactie, boekverzorgers
Editorial and Design Assistance
in Amsterdam. The team of authors, translators and editors share
Louise Abbot, Willem de Blaauw, Frank Bontekoning, Lucinda
a broad field of expertise. Every member of the team made an
Cooke, Emer FitzGerald, Willem Gerritze, Martine Hauwert, Peter
invaluable contribution.
Koomen, Catherine Palmi, Ron Putto, Sadie Smith, Susana Smith,
Anneliet Bannier graduated in translation studies from
Inge Tijsmans, Sylvia Tombesi-Walton, Pascal Veeger, Erna de Voos,
Amsterdam University. She works as a translator and sub-editor
Willeke Vrij, Gerard van Vuuren, Martine Wiedemeijer.
on travel guides. She lives in Zaanstreek.
Hanneke Bos is an editor and translator in the fields of Picture Research
linguistics, cultural history and travel literature. Harry Bunk; Corine Koolstra; Dick Polman; de Redactie,
Jaap Deinema, from Eindhoven, is an expert on the boekverzorgers; Rachel Barber; Ellen Root.
Netherlands. He has made numerous contributions to travel
guides. He was responsible for the ATO/VVV edition Infopocket Revisions Team
Amsterdam. Tora Agarwala, Madhura Birdi, Willem de Blaauw, Neha Dhingra,
Jrme Gommers, born in Paris, is a freelance author and Sander Groen, Sumita Khatwani, Shikha Kulkarni, Phil Lee, Bhavika
lover of the Dutch landscape and its poetry. Among other things, Mathur, Avijit Sengupta, Azeem Siddiqui, Rituraj Singh, Rachel
he has conducted a comprehensive study of the construction and Thompson, Ajay Verma, Gerard van Vuuren.
development of the Noordoostpolder.
Ron de Heer studied philosophy in Amsterdam. For ten years Special Assistance
John Bekker; Wim ten Brinke; Bert Erwich; Niek Harmans; Frits
he has been working as a translator/editor, primarily of travel
Gommers; Hans Hoogendoorn; Cathelijne Hornstra; Petra van
guides, novels and culinary publications.
Hulsen; Frank Jacobs; Chris de Jong; Nina Krijnen; Mies Kuiper;
Marten van de Kraats writes and translates texts in the
fields of travel and automation. Every year he edits the Dutch Louise Lang; Frank van Lier; Bas de Melker; Miek Reusink; Dick Rog;
edition of the Rough Guide Travels on the internet, the best- Joske Siemons; Erika Teeuwisse; Wout Vuyk, Douglas Amrine.
selling internet book on Holland and Belgium. Picture Credits
Paul Krijnen is a social geographer who has specialized in t = top; tl = top left; tlc = top left centre; tc = top centre; tr = top
medieval mark organizations of the Netherlands, such as the right; trc = top right centre; c = centre; cl = centre left; cla = centre
Erfgooiers. His great passion is the Dutch borderlands. left above; clb = centre left below; ca = centre above; cr = centre
Frans Reusink studied Dutch language. After working as a right; cra = centre right above; crb = centre right below; bc =
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reports for magazines, and edited travel guides. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders.
Theo Scholten is a Dutch scholar. He has worked on many Dorling Kindersley apologizes for any unintentional omissions and
literary publications but is currently active in non-fiction as an
would be pleased, in such cases, to add an acknowledgment in
editor and translator. He has made previous contributions to travel
future editions.
guides on Belgium and France.
The publishers are grateful to the following museums,
Ernst Schreuder, a Frisian editor, won the Elfsteden Cross for photographers and picture libraries for permission to reproduce
completing the Tocht der Tochten in 1986 and 1997. Travel and
their photographs:
travel guides are his occupation and his hobby.
4corners images: SIME/ Pavan Aldo 151br; VAN Abbemuseum,
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470 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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PHRASE BOOK 471
Phrase Book
In Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Help! Help Id like to place Ik wil graag Ik vhil ghraakh
Stop! Stop! Stop a long-distance call interlokaal inter-loh-kaahl
Call a doctor Haal een dokter Haal uhn dok-tur telefoneren tay-luh-foe-neh-ruh
Call an ambulance Bel een Bell uhn ahm-bew- Id like to call Ik wil collect Ik vhil collect call
ambulance luhns-uh collect call bellen bel-luh
Call the police Roep de politie Roop duh poe-leet- Ill try again later Ik probeer het Ik pro-beer het laater
see later nog wel eens nokh vhel ayns
Call the fire brigade Roep de Roop duh brahnt- Can I leave a Kunt u een Kuhnt ew uhn boat-
brandweer vheer message? boodschap skhahp dohr-ghay-
Where is the Waar is de Vhaar iss duh doorgeven? vuh
nearest telephone? dichtstbijzijnde dikhst-baiy-zaiyn- Could you speak Wilt u wat harder Vhilt ew vhat hahr-
telefoon? duh tay-luh-foan up a little please? praten? der praah-tuh
Where is the Waar is het Vhaar iss het Local call Lokaal gesprek Low-kaahl ghuh-
nearest hospital? dichtstbijzijnde dikhst-baiy-zaiyn- sprek
ziekenhuis? duh zee-kuh-houws
Shopping
Communication Essentials How much does Hoeveel kost dit? Hoo-vayl kost dit
Yes Ja Yaa this cost?
No Nee Nay I would like Ik wil graag Ik vhil ghraakh
Please Alstublieft Ahls-tew-bleeft Do you have? Heeft u? Hayft ew
Thank you Dank u Dahnk-ew Im just looking Ik kijk alleen even Ik kaiyk alleyn ay-
Excuse me Pardon Pahr-don vuh
Hello Hallo Hallo Do you take credit Neemt u credit Naymt ew credit
Goodbye Dag Dahgh cards? cards aan? cards aan
Good night Slaap lekker Slaap lek-kah Do you take Neemt u Naymt ew raiys-
morning Morgen Mor-ghuh travellers cheques? reischeques aan? sheks aan
afternoon Middag Mid-dahgh What time do you Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaat ew
evening Avond Ah-vohnd open? open? opuh
yesterday Gisteren Ghis-tern What time do you Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaat ew
today Vandaag Vahn-daagh close? dicht? dikht
tomorrow Morgen Mor-ghuh This one Deze Day-zuh
here Hier Heer That one Die Dee
there Daar Daar expensive duur dewr
What? Wat? Vhat cheap goedkoop ghoot-koap
When? Wanneer? Vhan-eer size maat maat
Why? Waarom? Vhaar-om white wit vhit
Where? Waar? Vhaar black zwart zvhahrt
How? Hoe? Hoo red rood roat
yellow geel ghayl
Useful Phrases green groen ghroon
blue blauw blah-ew
How are you? Hoe gaat het Hoo ghaat het
ermee? er-may
Very well, thank you Heel goed, dank u Hayl ghoot, Types of Shops
dahnk ew antique shop antiekwinkel ahn-teek-vhin-kul
How do you do? Hoe maakt u het? Hoo maakt ew het bakery bakker bah-ker
See you soon Tot ziens Tot zeens bank bank bahnk
Thats fine Prima Pree-mah bookshop boekwinkel book-vhin-kul
Where is/are? Waar is/zijn? Vhaar iss/zayn butcher slager slaakh-er
How far is it to? Hoe ver is Hoo vehr iss cake shop banketbakkerij bahnk-et-bahk-er-aiy
het naar? het naar cheese shop kaaswinkel kaas-vhin-kul
How do I get to? Hoe kom ik naar? Hoo kom ik naar chip shop patatzaak pah-taht-zaak
Do you speak Spreekt u engels? Spraykt ew eng-uhls chemist (dispensing) apotheek ah-poe-taiyk
English? delicatessen delicatessen daylee-kah-tes-suh
I dont understand Ik snap het niet Ik snahp het neet department store warenhuis vhaar-uh-houws
Could you speak Kunt u langzamer Kuhnt ew lahng- fishmonger viswinkel viss-vhin-kul
slowly? praten? zahmer praa-tuh greengrocer groenteboer ghroon-tuh-boor
Im sorry Sorry Sorry hairdresser kapper kah-per
market markt mahrkt
Useful Words newsagent krantenwinkel krahn-tuh-vhin-kul
post office postkantoor pohst-kahn-tor
big groot ghroaht shoe shop schoenenwinkel sghoo-nuh-vhin-kul
small klein klaiyn supermarket supermarkt sew-per-mahrkt
hot warm vharm tobacconist sigarenwinkel see-ghaa-ruh-
cold koud khowt vhin-kul
good goed ghoot travel agent reisburo raiys-bew-roa
bad slecht slekht
enough genoeg ghuh-noohkh
well goed ghoot Sightseeing
open open open art gallery gallerie ghaller-ee
closed gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh bus station busstation buhs-stah-shown
left links links bus ticket strippenkaart strip-puh-kaahrt
right rechts rekhts cathedral kathedraal kah-tuh-draal
straight on rechtdoor rehkht dohr church kerk kehrk
near dichtbij dikht baiy closed on public op feestdagen op fayst-daa-ghuh
far ver weg vehr vhekh holidays gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh
up omhoog om-hoakh day return dagretour dahgh-ruh-tour
down naar beneden naar buh-nay-duh garden tuin touwn
early vroeg vroohkh library bibliotheek bee-bee-yo-tayk
late laat laat museum museum mew-zay-uhm
entrance ingang in-ghahng railway station station stah-shown
exit uitgang ouht-ghang return ticket retourtje ruh-tour-tyuh
toilet wc vhay say single journey enkeltje eng-kuhl-tyuh
occupied bezet buh-zett tourist information VVV fay fay fay
free (unoccupied) vrij vraiy town hall stadhuis staht-houws
free (no charge) gratis ghraah-tiss train trein traiyn
472 PHRASE BOOK
Staying in a Hotel mosterd moss-tehrt mustard

niet scherp neet skehrp mild
Do you have a Zijn er nog Zaiyn er nokh kaa-
vacant room? kamers vrij? mers vray olie oh-lee oil
double room with een twees uhn tvhay-per paling paa-ling eel
double bed persoonskamer soans-kaa-mer met pannekoek pah-nuh-kook pancake
met een twee uhn tvhay-per- patat frites pah-taht freet chips
persoonsbed soans beht peper pay-per pepper
twin room een kamer met uhn kaa-mer met poffertjes poffer-tyuhs tiny buckwheat
een lits-jumeaux uhn lee-zjoo-moh pancakes
single room eenpersoons- ayn-per-soans-kaa- rijst raiyst rice
kamer mer rijsttafel raiys-tah-ful Indonesian meal
room with a bath kamer met bad kaa-mer met baht rode wijn roe-duh vhaiyn red wine
shower douche doosh rookworst roak-vhorst smoked sausage
porter kruier krouw-yuh rundvlees ruhnt-flayss beef
I have a reservation Ik heb Ik hehp ghuh-ray- saus souwss sauce
gereserveerd sehr-veert schaaldieren skaahl-deeh-ruh shellfish
scherp skehrp hot (spicy)
Eating Out schol sghol plaice
Have you got a Is er een tafel Iss ehr uhn tah-fuhl soep soup soup
table? vrij? vraiy stamppot stahm-pot sausage stew
I want to reserve a Ik wil een tafel Ik vhil uhn tah-fuhl suiker souw-ker sugar
table reserveren ray-sehr-veer-uh thee tay tea
The bill, please Mag ik afrekenen Mukh ik ahf-ray- kuh-nuh tosti toss-tee cheese on toast
I am a vegetarian Ik ben vegetarir Ik ben fay-ghuh- uien ouw-yuh onions
taahr-ee-er uitsmijter ouht-smaiy-ter fried egg on bread
waitress/waiter serveerster/ober Sehr-veer-ster/oh-ber with ham
menu de kaart duh kaahrt
varkensvlees vahr-kuhns-flayss pork
cover charge het couvert het koo-vehr
wine list de wijnkaart duh vhaiyn-kaart vers fruit fehrss frouwt fresh fruit
glass het glas het ghlahss verse jus vehr-suh zjhew fresh orange juice
bottle de fles duh fless vis fiss fish/seafood
knife het mes het mess vlees flayss meat
fork de vork duh fork water vhaa-ter water
spoon de lepel duh lay-pul witte wijn vhih-tuh vhaiyn white wine
breakfast het ontbijt het ont-baiyt worst vhorst sausage
lunch de lunch duh lernsh zout zouwt salt
dinner het diner het dee-nay
main course het hoofdgerecht het hoaft-ghuh-rekht Numbers
starter, first course het voorgerecht het vohr-ghuh-rekht 1 een ayn
dessert het nagerecht het naa-ghuh-rekht 2 twee tvhay
dish of the day het dagmenu het dahgh-munh-ew 3 drie dree
bar het cafe het kaa-fay 4 vier feer
caf het eetcafe het ayt-kaa-fay
5 vijf faiyf
rare rare rare
medium medium medium 6 zes zess
well done doorbakken dohr-bah-kuh 7 zeven zay-vuh
8 acht ahkht
Menu Decoder 9 negen nay-guh
10 tien teen
aardappels aard-uppuhls potatoes 11 elf elf
azijn aah-zaiyn vinegar 12 twaalf tvhaalf
biefstuk beef-stuhk steak 13 dertien dehr-teen
bier, pils beer, pilss beer
14 veertien feer-teen
boter boater butter
brood/broodje broat/broat-yuh bread/roll 15 vijftien faiyf-teen
cake, taart, gebak cake, taahrt, ghuh- cake, pastry 16 zestien zess-teen
bahk 17 zeventien zayvuh-teen
carbonade kahr-bow-naa-duh pork chop 18 achtien ahkh-teen
chocola show-coa-laa chocolate 19 negentien nay-ghuh-teen
citroen see-troon lemon 20 twintig tvhin-tukh
cocktail cocktail cocktail 21 eenentwintig aynuh-tvhin-tukh
droog droakh dry 30 dertig dehr-tukh
eend aynt duck 40 veertig feer-tukh
ei aiy egg 50 vijftig faiyf-tukh
garnalen ghahr-naah-luh prawns 60 zestig zess-tukh
gebakken ghuh-bah-ken fried 70 zeventig zay-vuh-tukh
gegrild ghuh-ghrillt grilled 80 tachtig tahkh-tukh
gekookt ghuh-koakt boiled 90 negentig nayguh-tukh
gepocheerd ghuh-posh-eert poached 100 honderd hohn-durt
gerookt ghuh-roakt smoked
1000 duizend douw-zuhnt
geroosterd brood ghuh-roas-tert broattoast
1,000,000 miljoen mill-yoon
groenten ghroon-tuh vegetables
ham hahm ham
haring haa-ring herring Time
hutspot huht-spot hot pot one minute een minuut uhn meen-ewt
ijs aiyss ice, ice cream one hour een uur uhn ewr
jenever yuh-nay-vhur gin half an hour een half uur uhn hahlf ewr
kaas kaas cheese half past one half twee hahlf tvhay
kabeljauw kah-buhl-youw cod a day een dag uhn dahgh
kip kip chicken
a week een week uhn vhayk
knoflook knoff-loak garlic
koffie coffee coffee a month een maand uhn maant
kool, rode of coal, roe-duh off cabbage, red or a year een jaar uhn jaar
witte vhit-uh white Monday maandag maan-dahgh
kreeft krayft lobster Tuesday dinsdag dins-dahgh
kroket crow-ket ragout in bread-crumbs, Wednesday woensdag vhoons-dahgh
deep fried Thursday donderdag donder-dahgh
lamsvlees lahms-flayss lamb Friday vrijdag vraiy-dahgh
lekkerbekje lek-kah-bek-yuh fried fillet of haddock Saturday zaterdag zaater-dahgh
mineraalwater meener-aahl-vhaater mineral water Sunday zondag zon-dahgh

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Art Editor Dick Polman

Editorial (Dutch original) de Redactie, boekverzorgers, Amsterdam

Picture Researcher Harry Bunk

English-language adaptation produced by

First American edition 2003 Putting the Netherlands

Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with

The information in this

Museum Quarter 120

Shopping and Groningen 280 Travellers Needs

Western Introducing Travel Information 442

South Holland 212

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

in the Street Finder section

which are plotted on the Area

Map. The information for each

sight follows this numerical DE

order, making sights easy to

See also Street Finder

the rest of the city.

locate within the chapter.

Sights at a Glance groups

the sights by category:

covers the most interesting

historical buildings and

streets in the area.

squares and gardens,

museums and churches. 110

Street-by-Street: Around the Jordaan 4 Huis met de Hoofden

the pavements in summer. A stroll along

the Grachtengordel provides a glimpse

marked in red. into some of the citys grandest canal

houses, including the Bartolotti House.

This map gives a

detailed summary of the

The quiet The Eerste Hollandsche

heart of the five main

centre for makers faade, is a rare example

T of Dutch Art Nouveau,

tourist areas of the city.

opening hours and other

practical information. Keys to

the symbols used are on the

back flap of this book.

GELDERLAND The scenery, history

296 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS FRIESLAND 297

provinces southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland DOKKUM

This map shows the r Appelscha

main roads and SNEEK Akkrum

the main tourist

and also gives useful

information about STE

driving and rail travel.

code each province a different E Oudheidkamer

shade for easy reference.

Major sights and attractions are

which they are numbered on the

Regional Map. Within each entry is

detailed information on buildings,

parks, museums and other sights.

Story boxes explore now marked by the Burgwal

Visitors Checklist gives

The Delta Works