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Rome
The cult pocket city guides and mobile
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THERE ARE FEW CITIES The sheer scale and breathtaking figura and of course la dolce vita. The
ON THE PLANET MORE preservation of many of the cities Romans love life, and who are we to deny
greatest monuments is a joy to behold. them? Embrace Rome with open arms,
STEEPED IN HISTORY,
And then of course, there is the cooking, and go as often as you can, theres simply
INTRIGUE, POLITICS,
the staggering art, the fashion, la bella nowhere like it.
CULTURE, ROMANCE,
AND JAW-DROPPING
ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE
THAN ROME.
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Blah blah
R
ome is super-saturated with S
tillies + cobble streets dont mix, so S
ervice is always included, but add
visitors on all major holidays, break out the flats up to 10% anyway
particularly religious ones; the best
times to visit are Nov, Jan or Feb;
Aug broils, the population flee en
masse and the city all but shuts, but S
pring: Settimana della Cultura A
ll indoor restaurants and bars are
at least the streets are relatively Culture Week, all state museums non-smoking
crowd free your call are free / beniculturali.it. Sep/
Oct: Roma Europa Art Festival
music, dance and theatre / http://
www.romaeuropa.net. Oct/Nov: B
ars are legally required to let non-
Festa del Cinema / http://www. patrons use loos which is terribly
F
iumicino to Centro set fare by taxi:
romacinemafest.it. useful if your caught short
45 / 40 mins
S
hops generally open from 10am- C
offee etiquette: caff/espresso is a
C
ycling and walking are great
7:30pm, although smaller ones take single shot, doppio is a double shot,
options around Centro. Beyond,
an afternoon pause from 1-4pm, and Americano is a long black
the metro and trams are easy and
most close all day Sun and on Mon
frequent
mornings too
D
rinking cappuccino after midday is
considered a tad declass
C
iampino to Centro set fare by taxi:
R
estaurants and services tend to
35 / 35 mins
close on Sunday as well, so use this
day for museums and activities
T
he intl dialing code for Italy is +39,
Romes city code is 6, although this
T
axi drivers are notorious for adding
prefix is not needed when calling
extras, so watch the meter, Peter. In
A
lways book well ahead for the citys mobiles; for general emergencies
town, the meters red dot should be
best tables and be sure to reconfirm dial 113
next to the #1; if not, hes diddling
as reservations often get lost
you...
C
heck your change, Romans rarely
tip their drivers
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LUXE INSIDER
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LUXE INSIDER
1) WHATS THE BEST TIME 3) WHERE CAN YOU BE 5) WHERE WOULD YOU
OF YEAR TO VISIT ROME FOUND ON A SATURDAY OR GO FOR A COCKTAIL AND
AND WHY? ARE THERE SUNDAY MORNING? WHAT WOULD YOU ORDER?
ANY SPECIAL EVENTS TO
LOOK OUT FOR? In spring or on a sunny winter day, for Salotto 42 at Piazza di Pietra 42.
lunch at Ciampini at Piazza Trinita dei Very good drinks in a cool modern
May, flowers everywhere, walls Monti by the Spanish Steps, or Bar atmosphere in front of the most
covered in jasmine, the entire town Cafe Ciampini in Piazza San Lorenzo striking columns in Rome, steps away
is jasmine scented! Visit the Roseto in Lucina for cappuccino and cornetti from the Pantheon. Good music, and a
Comunale (open from May to October or a light lunch. young and hip Roman crowd that give
an amazing rose garden with 1100 a sense of where the citys scene is
www.caffeciampini.com
different varieties of roses Via di at right now! I love their Bloody Mary
www.ciampini.net
Valle Murcia, 6 (Aventino) with lots of lemon.
www.salotto42.it
www.museicapitolini.org
www.laterrazzadelleden.com
www.castelsantangelo.com
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LUXE Loves
www.santaluciaristorante.it
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GELATERIA SAN CRISPINO SALOTTO 42 IL GOCCETTO
Dining Bar Bar
Theres ice cream, and then theres Romes fashionistas love the relaxed, As you amble down Via dei Banchi
San Crispino gelati. This traditional but chic vibe of this book-lined salon Vecchi, at lunchtime, but more
parlour delivers divine homemade with its great cocktails, sounds and especially in the evening, youll
honey, meringue, ginger and fig plush places to perch. Tucked in the see patrons spilling out onto the
amongst many, many others, and back streets behind the Pantheon and street at this greatly loved and
while you have to run the gauntlet of open throughout the day, its a great mellow institution that specialises
the Trevi milling masses to get to it, it bolt-hole for a coffee too. in small labels from Sicily to Venice.
sure is worth it when you do. Dreamy Fun and friendly.
and creamy! Piazza di Pietra, 42 / Pantheon /
+39 6 678 5804 / closed Monday Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 / Campo
Via della Panetteria, 42 / Trevi / di Fioro / +39 6 686 4268 /
www.salotto42.it
+39 6 679 3924 / closed Tuesdays closed Sunday
in autumn and winter www.ilgoccetto.com
www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it
MORIONDO & GARIGLIO
Shopping
GALLERIA BORGHESE
LUCIA ODESCALCHI Who can resist sweets for the sweet? Activity
Shopping No matter what time of year you visit
this confetteria youre guaranteed Not only is the villa pretty, but the
If contemporary jewelry rings your a seasonal delight of homemade superb, perfectly-sized museum inside
bell, then dont dare miss these chocolates and candies, from it contains gorgeous works by Titian,
stunning collections housed in Ms. marron glacs in winter to sugar Raphael, Caravaggio and Rubens, as
Odescalchis beautiful family palazzo. violets in spring. Adorable and sinful, well as staggering Bernini and Canova
Pairing bronze and iron and steel with in equal measure. marble masterpieces that seem to be
diamonds and precious stones, Lucia alive. Whats more, tickets are limited
Via del Pie di Marmo, 21 / Pantheon /
has set the fashion world alight, and and timed, so there is no push or shove
+39 6 699 0856 / closed Sunday
more than a few hearts fluttering. and no over-crowding. A joy!
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THE SCAVI TOUR BABUINO 181 PORTRAIT SUITES
Activity Hotel Hotel
Not for the fainthearted, nor those Fabulously situated, molto elegante This 14-suite residence oozes
suffering from claustrophobia, this contemporary chambers wrapped Ferragamo attention to detail and
unique tour is severely restricted in a C.18th palazzo, with comp WiFi, style, attentive staff, a calm palette
in numbers, highly atmospheric snappy service and quieter courtyard- of limed woods and dove grey, plus a
and takes you into the bowels of St. facing rooms for light sleepers, and all fabulous rooftop deck thats perfect for
Peters Basilica to visit the original but a Gucci loafers toss from Piazza sunset views of the city. All rooms have
pagan necropolis underneath it and Popolo, Hotel de Russie and the lovely kitchenettes, while #51 has a private
purported last resting place of St. shopping of Via Margutta and Via terrace and #52 is super-doop duplex.
Peter himself. Condotti. Bliss!
Via Bocca di Leone, 23 / Spagna /
You can only book (in advance) via the Via del Babuino, 181 / Popolo / +39 6 6938 0742 /
Vatican Excavations Office by email +39 6 6992 1907
www.lungarnocollection.com/en
or fax scavi@fsp.va / +39 6 69 873
www.romeluxurysuites.com
017 / for full application details type in
excavations office scavi on the search
engine at www.vatican.va
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TAXI DRIVERS WAITERS OPENING TIMES
Notorious for adding extras, watch out You could expire and be buried before What do Roman shopkeepers do on
for the red dot scam (see Blah blah). being served. Sunday, Monday morning and daily
between 1-4pm?
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www.parcodeiprincipi.com
WINE APPRECIATION
PICNIC If you enjoy drinking delicious Italian
Dont waste time racing all around wine with every meal, youll enjoy it
town trying to put together hamper all the more once you understand its
ingredients, pop into Gina and pick nuances. Arrange a fab wine tasting
up a picnic cestino packed with masterclass at Vino Roma and amaze
summery goodies. your friends back home with your
newfound knowledge.
www.ginaroma.com
www.vinoroma.com
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Romance
Start your day viewing the charming into your timed opening slot at the selection of tidbits, but dont fill up,
private family collection housed at sublime Galleria Borghese (see LUXE youve only a few steps to go outside
the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. This vast Loves), home to some to the loveliest the hotel to find the gracefully
palazzo is still home to the Pamphilj treasures in the city, and with limited romantic, tree-lined terrazza of Santa
family, and is a fascinating insight into numbers allowed in at any one time, Lucia (see LUXE Loves) where a high
the art and daily life of the house. The there are none of the heaving crowds likelihood of Cupidity is always in
audio tour is narrated in English by of the Vatican Museum. Well, youve the air. Saunter homewards now, but
Prince Jonathan himself. Afterwards certainly earned a pamper, and the stop for a nightcap if you can at Bar
head to Ciampini for a well-earned glorious, limpid Wellness Zone spa della Pace the streetside tables of
coffee, or better yet, a large portion of at the Hotel de Russie is the perfect this eternal favorite line one of the
their scandalously good pistachio ice- place to relax in the company of the citys most picturesque backstreets,
cream, before zipping to the Spanish citys divas and divos who cant get drenched in atmosphere and always
Steps and popping into Gina to pick enough of the Watsu and hydro- lively.
up a picnic (see Fab vs Drab). Now, relaxation. As the clock hits 5pm your
off with you to the sylvan grounds of thoughts should be turning to Campari
the Villa Borghese, the perfect park time atop the pretty roof of the
to eat your lunch alfresco. Having Raphael Hotel for the inevitably lovely
booked your tickets in advance you sunset over the ravishing city skyline.
will now be perfectly placed to saunter Cocktails here come with a handsome
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Style
Well, youve certainly got a stylish Pacis, or Altar of Peace. It sits rather bar of I Sofa di Via Giulia atop the
day ahead, but dont skimp on the conveniently in the same square as St. George Hotel perfectly matches
most important meal of the day, stylish, all day flop-spot Gusto, equally sophisticated cocktails with stunning
instead make a beeline to chicster great for coffee, lunch or supper, views. Hungry? Ask yourself how
caf La Buvette where they even offer and rightly famous for its jazzy are you feeling; chic, urbane and in
delicious health and low-cal breakfasts Sunday brunch buffet. Drop those the mood for elegant dining? Then
(mostly unheard of in Roma). Suitably heavy shopping bags back at the make sleekster Baby your choice
replete, can there be any greater joy hotel and off with you velocemente with its poolside garden terrace. Or,
than shopping the nearby streets to the fabulous MAXXI. Zaha Hadids if something a little grittier, relaxed
Babuino, Margutta and legendary architectural tour de force is alone and local is called for, hotfoot it to
Condotti? So many shopportunities; worth a viz, but the contemporary art Monti and the always popular, organic
from fashion staples Eleonora and makes it an afternoon well spent and regional cooking of Urbana 47. It just
TAD, glove emporium Sermoneta, and theres also a natty caf in case you remains to take nightcaps at the book-
home dcor at Pratesi, to labelista get a sudden attack of gallery-itis. lined social salon Salotto 42 (see LUXE
Marni and shoe maestro Caovilla. When the weather is fine there is little Loves), and thats one stylish day in
Its always important, of course, to more pleasant occupation in Rome the bag!
balance retail with culture, so dont than escaping the milling streets to a
miss Richard Meiers stupendous rooftop bar for alfresco sundowners
glass and travertine temple that surrounded by the amber rapture
houses the utterly beautiful Ara of ancient buildings, and the lounge
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Business
Having a summer breakfast meeting? Brunello Cucinelli. Now that youre that you may prefer a quiet business
Try to arrange it at the Hotel De sartorially sorted, you will need to drink away from the eyes of all, the
Russie so you can enjoy the alfresco think of grooming. Romes ladies in gloriously old fashioned Bar Bistro
perfection of the 2 Michelin star the know all make tracks to the head- Mascagni scores top marks hidden
Jardin de Russie, with its pretty, turning Noi salon where up-dos and away in the Grand Hotel Plaza, this
clipped shrubs and roses. Should blowouts rule the day from celebs step-back-in-time capsule of brass and
you have forgotten the mandatory to contessas. Gentlemen meanwhile, red velvet serves up a very decent
sunglasses that no Italian would be should check into one-stop guy spot martini and peaceful Proseccos, safely
seen dead without, fret not, simply Wonderfool. This groovy groomer undiscovered by the milling hordes.
scoot across the road from the hotel features a barber, spa, Turkish For dinner, Dal Bolognese is packed
to Ottica Spieza and get yourself bath, mini-gym, massages, facials, with the Estab crowd, politicos, WAGS
suitably shaded from their up to male-nails and great Art of Shaving and celebs, but for a venue where
the moment range of specs. There products to buy. Lunch! When great the accent is more firmly on the food,
is little or no excuse for being badly value and a great venue are called your clients will love Antico Arco
turned out in Rome with a plethora for, book ahead for the 2-course set great cuisine, swish crowd and lovely
of mens and womens outfitters, but lunch at Open Colonna. This soaring surroundings.
for serious mens shirt tailoring and glass conservatory attracts a very
excellent suits saunter down Condotti stylish, professional clientele and is
to find Battistoni, and classically also a social hub at aperitivi hour.
tasteful mens and womenswear at Speaking of which, on the occasion
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The Essentials
ROMANTIC ITINERARY STYLISH ITINERARY
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The Essentials
BUSINESS ITINERARY
Wonderfool
Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 39 / Navona /
+39 6 6889 2315
www.wonderfool.it
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