Production Status

In this project we have to determine that in what time we will get our order product.
There are different different stages are there in production of the cloth. By the help of
this we can get the approximately time the cloth will take for its delivery. And to achieve
this we should have a better communication between us and our vendors.

For production status we have following stages.

1. Spinning and Yarn stay

2. Dyeing

3. Weaving

4. Processing / Finishing

5. Packing and dispatch

6. Approval from brand

7. Delivery wait
So for better understanding first we have to know all this stages. These above stages I
have understand in the production department.

1.Spinning and Yarn stay

SPINNING DEPARTMENT:
 Blow Room (Bale opening, cleaning)
Carding
Pre-Drawing
Unilap Machines
Combing
Post-Drawing
Speed Frames
Ring Frames
Winding
Assembly Winding(plied yarns)
Two For One (T.F.O)
Singeing(optional)

Spinning is the process of conversion of fiber to yarn. It is composed of about 90 percent

cellulose and about 6 percent moisture; the remainder consists of natural impurities. The
outer surface of the fiber is covered with a protective wax like coating which gives the fiber
a somewhat adhesive quality.

Blow Room

With all harvesting methods, however, the cotton

seed, together with the fibers, always gets into the
ginning plant where it is broken up into trash and
seed-coat fragments. This means that ginned
cotton is always contaminated with trash and dust
particles and that an intensive cleaning is only
possible in the spinning mill.
Fig. 1.1
Nep content increases drastically with mechanical harvesting, ginning and subsequent
cleaning process. The reduction of the trash content which is necessary for improving
cotton grade and appearance unfortunately results in a higher nep content level.

The basic purpose of Blow room is to supply

Small fibre tufts

Clean fibre tufts

Homogeneously blended tufts if more than one variety of fibre is used to carding machine
without increasing fibre rupture, fibre neps, broken seed particles and without removing
more good fibres.

Machines Used:

1. For Extracting Raw Cotton : Trutzschler Blendomat BDT 019

Cotton is passed from bales and then to

apron. Apron moves cotton to blending
apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the
raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by
the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron.
The cotton knocked back by roll and
continues to blend until picked up again by
apron. Another roll strips off cotton that was Fig. 1.2
not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to
next process that is blending through an overhead duct.

There was only one such machine there.

2. For Opening: Trutzschler BO 046

Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between

feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling
 beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the
mass. Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes
cotton to another type of beater.
From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to picker. It is
necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them and to
press the raw fibre in a temporary lap. There were three such machines there.

3. Axi flow cleaner or AFC : Trutzschler 052-2502

Fig. 1.4
Objective of AFC is separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton. The
opened up mass of fiber rotates around two cleaning rollers (beaters) with
cylinder steel pins which beat the fiber material, allowing the coarse particles to
be separated. The time (in hours) of the passage of material can be regulated.
The speed range of the beaters varies from 400-600 rpm. There were three such
machines there.

4. ASTA : Trutzschler ASTA 800

Objective of ASTA is Heavy trash separation from cotton. The air and material
enters the separation tank in a stream via upper channel and hit baffle plates.
Heavy particles are removed away from the lighter fibers by negative
 acceleration and the force of gravity. The lower channel generates an opulent air
stream in the area of baffle plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet. There
were three such machines there.

5. DUSTEX : Trutzschler CVT-4 1600

Fig. 1.5

Dust removal is not an easy operation since the dust particles are completely
enclosed in the flocks & hence are back during suction. The suction units remove
dust 64% dust. There were three such machines there.

6. LOPTEX Breaker and Finisher

These are basically used to remove some foreign impurities that might have
adhered to the cotton fibre right from the start of the ginning process. There were
six such machines there.

7. T.V.D Fan
 The main purpose of this fan is to pass on the cotton tufts to the carding
machine.

Carding

Fig. 1.6 Fig. 1.7

Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded sliver
of parallelized and straightened fibers

Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be
removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened.

The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING.

This work is done by carding machine.

The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly revolving
cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves
concentrically above this cylinder.

As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap
under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes,
disentangles the fibers, and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form
of a thin web.
 This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope
like mass called card sliver.

After carding, the carded slivers go to the draw frame.

Drawing

Drawing is the process where the fibres are blended, straightened and the number of
fibres in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear density in the spinning
process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity or evenness of the sliver. The
number of drawing passages utilised depends on the spinning system used and the end
products.

In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw frame twice. One is after the carding
stage and another after the combing stage. They were also known there as SB-drawing &
RSB-Drawing.

After SB drawing the cans are fed to the unilap machine for converting slivers into a tap or
lap. This conversion is done because the fibres cannot be fed to the comber in a sliver
form. Inside an Unilap Machine, the three-over-three drafting system ensures high fleece
quality through optimum finishing drafting and parallelisation of the fibres. High-quality laps
or tapes are produced by means of two lapping rollers and a variable production speed.

The length of each tape/ lap is 260 m and the width of the tape is 302 mm.

Combing

In general, combing is done to remove the short length fibres. For example fibre shorter
than 21 mm. The comb is a filter or sieve for short fibre length. Combing is a mechanical
sieve and will not remove any containment that looks like a fibre being combed.

The rectilinear comb uses a circular comb mounted on a drum to comb out the fringe and
remove short fibre (set by a scale so fibres less than for example 25mm are removed) not
held by a clamping mechanism. The row of pins known as a Top comb is a very fine tooth
comb, for example 25teeth per inch, it is inserted in cylindrical combed fringe to act as an
impediment to contaminates (Burr, seed etc) flow. The top comb acts as an impediment to
contamination moving into a combed sliver. On a next circular combing short finer and
contaminates are removed. The circular combing without shot fibres are placed on a
moving belt in an overlapping motion. The motion of circular combing and top comb
insertion is repeated and combed fibers - now called tuft are overlapped. The overlapping
produces some cohesion allowing the tuft then to be twisted to form a combed sliver. This
sliver is weak and unsuitable for spinning. The short fibres are carried by an underground
duct to the blow room again.

Speed Frame (Rovings)

In preparation for ring spinning, the sliver needs to be condensed into a finer strand known
as a roving before it can be spun into a yarn. It is an intermediate process in which fibers
are converted into low twist lea called roving.

The sliver which is taken from comber is thicker so it is not suitable for manufacturing of
yarn. Its purpose is to prepare input package for next process. This package is to prepare
on a small compact package called bobbins. Roving machine is complicated, liable to fault,
causes defect adds to the production costs and deliver the product. In this winding
operation that makes us roving frame complex.

There are two main basic reasons for using speed frame:

The roving sliver is thick and untwisted. Because of it hairiness and fly is created.
So draft is needed to reduce the linear density of sliver. The ring drafting
arrangement is not capable that it may process the roving sliver to make the
yarn.
 Draw frame can represent the worst conceivable mode of transport and
presentation of feed material to the ring spinning frame.

They were using three types of speed frame machines: Toyota, LR, Ginser. LR m/c had
144 spindles running at an RPM of 800-900 and the Toyota and Ginser had 120
spindles and were running at an RPM of 1000-1100. More finer counts like 82s, 95s
were being made on LR machine, whereas Toyota machines were used for count range
below 60s.

Ring Frame

A ring frame was constructed from cast iron, and later pressed steel. On each side of the
frame are the spindles, above them are draughting (drafting) rollers and on top is a
creel loaded with bobbins of roving.
The roving (unspun thread) passes downwards from the bobbins to the draughting rollers.
Here the back roller steadied the incoming thread, while the front rollers rotated faster,
pulling the roving out and making the fibres more parallel. The rollers are individually
adjustable, originally by mean of levers and weights.

The attenuated roving now passes through a thread guide that is adjusted to be centred
above the spindle. Thread guides are on a thread rail which allows them to be hinged out
of the way for doffing or piecing a broken thread. The attenuated roving passes down to
the spindle assembly, where it is threaded though a small D ring called the traveller. The
traveller moves along the ring. It is this that gives the ring frame its name. From here the
thread is attached to the existing thread on the spindle.
The up and down ring rail motion guides the thread onto the bobbin into the shape
required: i.e. a cop. The lifting must be adjusted for different yarn counts.
These machines were imparting Z-Twist to the yarn.

Winding
The main purpose of winding machines that they were using is to transfer the ring yarn
obtained from ring spinning into a cone form. These machines were installed with LOEPFE
YARN MASTER, which is used for detecting the unwanted presence of neps, foreign
matter, colour contamination and hairiness. When encountered, the machine used to cut
the thread from that position, removing the abnormalities.

Two - For One Twisting (TFO)

The process of twisting is an indispensable means of improving certain yarn properties
and satisfying textile requirements that cannot be fulfilled by the single yarns. The method
of twisting two or more single yarns is called doubling or folding or ply twisting. Such yarns
are designated as doubled yarn, folded yarn or plied yarn and the machines intended for
the purpose are called doublers, ply-twisters or two-for-one (TFO) twisters.

Traditionally, ring doublers were used for ply twisting spun yarns and uptwisters were used
for twisting filament yarns. Now-a-days, TFO twisters are gaining world-wide acceptance in
both spun yarn and filament yarn sectors mainly because of their inherent advantages like
(1) production of long length of knot free yarns which facilitates better performance in the
subsequent processes and (2) higher productivity.

Singeing
Singeing of a yarn is done in order to obtain a clean yarn surface which allows the
structure of the fabric to be clearly seen. Yarns, which have been singed, soil less easily
than un-singed yarns.

The risk of pilling is reduced in case of singed fabrics. Singed fabrics allow printing of fine
intricate patterns with high clarity and detail.

The risk of skittery dyeings with singed articles dyed in dark shades is considerably
reduced, as randomly protruding fibres are removed in singeing which could cause
diffused reflection of light.
SSM GSX3 and PEASS were used for yarn singeing running at a speed of 1500m/min and
a maximum take up package width of 280mm.

RJK high speed cone/cheese winding was being used for removing the adhered burnt
particles from the yarn surface and provides a final finish to the yarn surface.

Yarn Stay
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of
textiles.

YARN DEPARTMENT:

Soft Winding

Pressing Machine (Loading/Unloading)

Soft Winding

The soft package winding is the most important pre dying operation, which directly affects
not only the dyeing quality but also post dyeing operations such as rejects, wastages and
poor unwinding, thread breakages etc. Well wound is half dyed, is the popular saying
which is very correct in the context of package dyeing, because we cant expect miracles
from the most advanced dyeing machinery, if our packages are of poor quality. Although
different technologies of winding when operated carefully provides satisfactory results, but
in order to insure uniformity and consistently good winding, precise adjustment and careful
maintenance of the equipment is necessary and the operators must be trained and closely
supervised.

Factors like count of the yarn, angle of winding, yarn tension during winding, diameter and
traverse of the package, the stability of the package, the winding ratio, the compactness
and size of the feed package all affect the package make up and must be considered while
selecting a machine for soft package winding.

The most compact part of any package is its edges or shoulders, where the yarn turns the
corner and this is the most difficult place to wet out and to penetrate. Incomplete
penetration will cause it to dye lighter or not at all.

Crossing or Winding Angle

It is the angle at which the yarn crosses each other on a wound package, smaller the
crossing angle denser will be the package.

Winding Ratio

It is the no. of turns of yarn per revolution of the package, or distance between the threads
of layer. More the no. of turns per revolution more is the density. Increasing the distance
between the threads of a layer decreases the density.

Package Stability

It is the tendency of wound yarn on the package holder to remain stable. If the yarn layers
does not hold good on the package holder, the package may deform easily in subsequent
processing.

The Package

The yarn to be dyed is first to be wound into a package. The weight and diameter of the
package is limited by the space available between the spindles (pitch) and by the
levelness obtained when a dyeing is carried out using a particular dyestuff. The package
dimensions and weight are influenced by the type and construction of yarn to be
processed, class of the dyestuffs, machine flow rate, end use of the dyed substrate and
package holder eg. Spring, cheese, or cone.

Package Holder: SS Dye Springs

The dye springs are most commonly used package holder, on which the yarn is wound
offers the advantages such as these are reusable, compressible, making a perfect column
after pressing, spacers etc. are not used between the individual packages, thus reducing
the possibility of channelling, dye springs offers much lesser resistance to the liquor flow
through the packages. Due to high compression possibility the dyeing machines can be
loaded to a higher capacity and liquor ratio can be reduced for better economy of the
process.

Pressing

Pressing is done usually to compress the soft package and prepares it for subsequent
chemical operations. An over head dye press is used for this purpose which exerts an
approx pressure of 132 psi and compresses the soft package by 15%. At first the
packages are loaded on the spindles and then pressed together. This is known as loading.
These compressed packages are then sent for dyeing. After the completion of dyeing,
these packages are again brought to the pressing area and then previously exerted
pressure is released. This is known as unloading.

Max. Capacity of each spindle is 10 packages. And for a minimum lot of lets say, 72 kg - 6
spindles are used and for a maximum lot of 500 kg - 42 spindles are used.

Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns and fabrics.
Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical
materials.

DYEING DEPARTMENT:

Package Dyeing (Scouring,

Bleaching, Dyeing, After Treatment)

Hydro Extractor

R.F Dryer

Q.A Check

Rewinding

Dyeing

Dyeing is the process of adding colour to textile products like fibres, yarns,
and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular
chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fibre
molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There are
mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made.

Yarn dyeing is a special type of dying process. Yarns are dyed in package or hank form by
yarn dyeing process. It is slightly different from woven or knits dyeing. Dyed yarns are
used for making striped woven or knits fabric or solid dyed yarn fabric or in sweater
manufacturing.

In arvind, they were using HTHP package dyeing machines for yarn dyeing and the dyeing
section is divided into 4 phases on the basis of the machines capacity.

In the dyeing section; dyeing is done according to the approved sample dyeing recipe.
Different parameters are maintained during dyeing like; temperature, pressure, time etc.
when dyed yarn shade is matches with the approved sample then it is sent for further
processes otherwise, it is re-dyed.

Hydro-Extraction

Hydro extractors are machines which are used in processing

industry. The wet material is placed in the extractor, which has a wall
of perforated metal, generally stainless steel. The internal drum
rotates at high speed thus throwing out the water contained in it. The
use of hydro extractor significantly reduces the energy required to
dry any material. The machines used for hydro extraction in arvind
were capable of removing upto 25% water.

Fig. 2.1
 Introduction to Company

Arvind Limited (formerly Arvind Mills) is a textile manufacturer and the flagship company of the
Lalbhai Group. Its headquarters is in Naroda, Ahmadabad, Gujarat, India. It has units at Santej
(near Kalol). It manufactures cotton shirting, denim, knits and bottom weight (khaki) fabrics. It has
also recently ventured into technical textiles when it started Advanced Materials Division in 2011. It
is India's largest denim manufacturer apart from being the worlds fourth-largest producer and
exporter of denim and it is since 1897.

Main products & Services :-

Arvind main products in fabrics are Denim, Shirtings, Khakis, Knitwear, and Voile. And also do
Garment exports in Shirts & Jeans. Arvind Brands (owned) are Flying Machine, Newport,
Quads, Ruf & Tuf, Excalibur, Arvind RTW (Exclusively available at The Arvind Stores).

Arvind also have some licensed brands like ZARA, Arrow, Gap Inc., Lee, Wrangler, Gant
U.S.A., Tommy Hilfiger, EdHardy, Izod, Cherokee, Mossimo, U.S. Polo Assn., Billabong,
Nautica, Aeropostale. And have Advanced Materials Division & EBO (exclusive brand outlet) /
The Arvind Store.

Arvind provides services like Telecommunications service provider, Engineering, Real estate,
Mega Mart Retail.

Management brief :-

Arvind mills was founded by Mr. Kasturbhai Lalbhai (the co-founder) in 1897 and later on in
1931 it became Arvind Mills Ltd. was incorporated with share capital 165,000 ($55,000) in
Ahmedabad. The products manufactured were dhoties, sarees, mulls, dorias, crepes,
shirtings, lingerie, coatings, printed lawns and voiles cambrics, twills and gaberdine.

Now Mr. Sanjaybhai Lalbhai is the Chairman and Managing Director of Arvind and Lalbhai
Group. In the early 1980s, he led the 'Reno-vision' whereby the company brought denim into the
domestic market, thus starting the jeans revolution in India. Today it retails its own brands like
Flying Machine, Newport and Excalibur and licensed international brands like Arrow, Tommy
Hilfiger, through its nationwide retail network. Arvind also runs three clothing and accessories
retail chains, the Arvind Store, Unlimited and Megamart, which stocks company brands.