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A well-thought out strategy for any given retouching

task is always preferable to a lot of fiddling and mess-


ing about. Good retouching requires clever thinking and
planning, more than elbow grease. The more techniques
you know, the better you can choose between them,
and make decisions that will save time as well as giv-
ing a more optimal, even result. This is not a how-to
tutorial, but provides some essential ground rules for
retouching. For my eBook DIGITAL RETOUCHING FOR
FASHION, BEAUTY AND PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY on
www.grygarness.com/downloads.htm The book is priced
at 18.50 and is one of the most comprehensive re-
touching manuals on the market.
www.grygarness.com/photoshop/traininfo.htm

Not all screen views are good for retouching. 100% is al- the Snapshot button in the History Palette at every significant
ways the best judging view, as it is the only true view of the stage in the process (but dont go completely wild, as it takes
pixels. But 100% may not always be the most practical work- up memory). When using the History Brush, you have to make
ing view, and you may work at 50%, 200%, 400% etc. Notice sure youre on the right layer a layer that existed when you
that theres a pattern to these views, and that views like 600% took the Snapshot youre borrowing from. The History Brush
or 66.7% are not mentioned. This is because the odd cached wont work if the Layer or image has been transformed or re-
proxy views tend to scramble the view of the pixels on screen. sized.

Start with getting the colours as clean and correct as pos- Work in 16-bit at your peril for complex retouching tasks,
sible, but leave the creative colour work for later. This really especially on big images. Yes, 16-bit may be ideal, but it actu-
sharpens the image and will reveal all the flaws, so they wont ally matters most at the stage where you do the major colour
come as a surprise later. Clean up any dust and scratches, so correction. In a complex retouching scenario, the file size will
you can get on with the creative work without having to in- often increase five-fold when you include all the Layers, Al-
terrupt the flow with general cleaning. If the subject is quite phachannels and Layer-Masks. A normal file that starts out at
bright, make a (removable) contrasty adjustment layer, which 8-bit 50 mb will easily grow to 250 mb. In 16-bit the image
will reveal any flaws in the image, and more importantly, any layers will be twice as heavy but its the Adjustment Layers
flaws introduced in the retouching. and their masks that make a huge difference in file size.

Over-retouching is the most common mistake, and the art of Large soft brushes are much softer and have a much bigger
retouching is to make it seem perfect but natural. Its the many fall-off than small brushes of the same (per se) softness. If you
small things that come together to make an image great. Its have a soft brush and you want to mask into a pointy crevice
not necessarily the big dramatic move that makes perfection. or corner, dont attempt to change the brush size to fit into it.
Make a retouching plan on a separate blank layer, and stick to Instead, keep the same size brush, and paint over the crevice.
it. Retouching on a duplicate layer lets you turn it off to view Then paint off the overspill with the opposite brush colour.
the original below. Of course, it also gives you a safety net.
Use the Gradient Tool for masking in/out colour corrections,
Work editably and give yourself a safety-net in every situa- creating smooth blends between comped layers, nothing can
tion. Use Snapshots, Layers, History Brush and use Layer-Masks beat it. It paints smoother than any user, and used cleverly, is a
instead of Eraser. If you have many small layers that together great time-saver. The second Gradient which uses Foreground
form a compositional element (e.g. an eye or a building) con- to Transparency, will let you drag several times in different di-
sider joining them together in a Group. A Layer Group can also rections without canceling out the previous ones.
be masked off, so that youre in effect masking off several lay-
ers together. Its easy to generate too many Layers, and to lose Master the Pen Tool, and make Paths which can be used
track of them. It also helps to name the Layers. Whatever you as selections or to stroke or mask. For cutting out subjects that
do, always bear in mind that each element should be revers- cannot be extracted with plugins or masked because the colour
ible without too much trouble. is too similar, nothing beats a clean well-defined Path. A Path
can also be Stroked with any of the painting tools. Great for
Even if you work with Layers, the History Brush can provide anything where you need an even coverage along a line and
an additional safety net when embarking on some tricky work your hand just isnt steady enough!
with the Clone Stamp tool and Healing Brush. Mark the His-
tory Source box of the present history state before you start When comping, make sure that the sources for the differ-
cloning, and use the History Brush tool to reverse it exactly ent elements are as similar as possible in quality, with similar
where it went wrong, or to reduce its effect in areas. Snap- amounts of noise, resolution and sharpness. If its too dissimi-
shots are a good way of marking the progression of a retouch- lar, it can be hard to rectify later. You generally have to match
ing task, and can be referred to as History Sources. Click on the inferior quality elements in noise and sharpness.

gry garness 2007 www.grygarness.com All rights reserved. No unauthorized copying or reproduction of this tutorial or its content.
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