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Sweden
and
Norway
Denmark,
in
Excursions
Bremner
Robert
4c,
foz
1
EXCURSIONS
VOL. II.
Printed by J. L. Cox and Sows, 75. Great Queen Street,
LincolnVIna Fields.
JHARi.ES XIV.
JOHN. K:NO OF SWEDEN & NORWAY.
AMI
BY
ROBERT BREMNER, Esa.,
AUTHOR OF " EXCURSIONS IN THR INTRRIOR OK RUSSIA," &C.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
NORWAY. EAST COAST OF SWEDEN.
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1840.
%3Z
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
FIRST STEPS IN NORWAY; AND SCENE OF CHARLES
THE TWELFTH'S DEATH.
Page
Bold Scenery Kind Reception from a Prisoner of War
Frederickshald Fortress of Frederickstein Monu
ment of Charles XII.Reflections Soldier's Evening
Hymn Inns and EggsNight Watchmen 3
CHAPTER II.
COAST OF THE SKAGGERACK. CONTRASTS BETWEEN
NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
ConvictsCross the GlommenMossScene of Saw-mills
Awkward Resemblances between the Norwegian and
Swedish LanguagesFerocity of the PeasantsExtortion
RoadsPostingThe NorwegiangPonySnow Ploughs
HousesDogsCows and their BellsFlowersBirds
CarriolesMidnight Entrance to Christiania 15
VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
CHRISTIANIA.
Page
Beautiful SituationDullness The Norwegian Ladies
Scarcity of ShopsFew CarriagesWalks by the Shore
Our Table-d'h6teCompany and FareBreadLiving
not CheapNorway RatsA Dear BillThe Duke of
D Visit to the Fish-marketHarbour and Trade
Complaints of Norwegians against the Duties on their
Timber in England Qualities of PineTrade of Bergen
Lobsters, &c.More Rats 28
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Page
History of the MinesPredominant Rocks of Norway
WagesExpennsesStructure of the MountainsA wel-
ContrastVisit to the Laabron-FosWaterfalls of Norway
superior to those of Switzerland 94
CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIV.
FAREWELL TO NORWAY.
CHAPTER I.
A SWEDISH HOLIDAY.
Page
Frontier at MagnorRoads of WermelandAspect of the
CountryThe Landlady of Strand and her kingly Visitor
The Eve of St. JohnCarlstadtSymptoms of a
Holiday The Town Its Commerce The Bishop
Aghard, the BotanistDisorderly ClergyMiss Martineau
in SwedenBreadBedsAppearance of the adjacent
Country Lake VenernFierce PigsPopular Rejoicing
Unbecoming Dances Passion of the Women for Danc
ingThe lost SlipperDrunk People 193
CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VIII.
1'age
New UniversityNumber of StudentsIncome of Pro
fessors Examination for DegreesPrinted ListsThe
Botanic Garden 293
CHAPTER IX.
VISIT TO MISS LOUISA LINN/KUS.
CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER XI.
STOCKHOLM.
Page
puzzled SentinelLodgingsInnsGreatly improved
Wooden Houses on their travels 341
CHAPTER XII.
SUMMER LIFE IN THE SWEDISH CAPITAL.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE PALACE, THE HOSPITAL, AND THE PRISON.
CHAPTER XIV.
AN EVENING IN THE ROYAL CAMP.
CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XVI.
APPENDIX.
No. I.
No. II.
VOL. II.
SUMMER TOUR IN DENMARK,
NORWAY, &c.
CHAPTER I.
FIRST STEPS IN NORWAY; AND SCENE OF
CHARLES THE TWELFTH'S DEATH.
CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER III.
CHRISTIAN I A.
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER V.
UNIVERSITY OF CHBISTIANIA.NORWEGIAN
CHURCH AND PERIODICAL PRESS. CON
VICTS' PRISON.
V
CRUEL TREATMENT OF CONVICTS. G7
CHAPTER VI.
POLITICAL PROSPECTS OF NORWAY.
CHAPTER VII.
JOURNEY ALONG THE CHRISTIANIA FIORD.
,-
THE MAELSTROM ! 91
CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER X.
A SUMMER MORNING IN A MOUNTAIN HAMLET
OF NORWAY.
k 2
132
CHAPTER XI.
ROMANTIC SCENERY OF LAKE TIND.
VOL. II.
146
CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XIII.
A NIGHT WITH THE SHEPHERDS.SCENES OF
STILL-LIFE AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
CHAPTER XIV.
FAREWELL TO NORWAY.
SWEDEN.
INTERIOR AND EAST COAST
OF SWEDEN.
CHAPTER I.
A SWEDISH HOLIDAY.
CHAPTER II.
LIFE AMONG THE FARMERS OF VVERMELAND.
V
INVESTMENT FOR MONEY. 221
CHAPTER III.
SCENES OF PLENTY IN THE IRON DISTRICTS.
CHAPTER IV.
SKETCHES IN THE FORE8TS OF DALECARLIA.
Dress and Manners of the DalecarliansGentle Scenes in the
Forests Enactments concerning the ForestsWhere arc
the Wild Beasts and the Robbers ? Little Shepherdess
Notions of the People regarding the EnglishWild Flowers
The Lily l.inncea Borealis, &c Cottage of Gustavus Vasa at
Orncis Its Antiquities and Patriotic Reminiscenses Wise
Policy of the present King.
CHAPTER V.
SUBTERRANEAN WANDERINGS IN THE COPPER
MINES OF FALUN.
CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VII.
AERIAL FLIGHT IN THE IRON MINES OF
DANNEMORA.
CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER IX.
VISIT TO MISS LOUISA LINN.3EUS.
CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER XI.
STOCKHOLM.
CHAPTER XII.
SUMMER LIFE IN THE SWEDISH CAPITAL.
CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIV.
AN EVENING IN THE ROYAL CAMP.
CHAPTER XV.
2 f 2
43G
CHAPTER XVI.
No. I.
No. II.
Muionaska, and
Kartskeme, and the
North Cape, a distance of six hundred miles, we travelled
sometimes in boats, but generally on foot, while our luggage
was carried by rein-deer. The shooting the whole way is
very first-rate. I was exempted from carrying any baggage
on the terms of provisioning the party ; and I had never
any difficulty in killing game enough for the whole party,
consisting of an English servant, a Norwegian, a Swede,
and seven Laplanders, who, with their rein-deer, carried the
heavy luggage, such as ammunition, cooking apparatus, and
a tent.
Ducks of every kind, ptarmigan, and many sorts of snipe,
were daily seen. Bears' tracks were visible every where,
but the animal itself we never met with. White hares are
tolerably numerous. I resided two months on an
Island near the North Cape. The fishing was good, but I soon
killed all the game.
At the Grand Fall of Trollh'dttan, the sportsman will find ex
cellent quarters; viz. good duck- shooting, and brilliant
perch and trout fishing. I am not an artist in that way,
but from what I do know, it appears to me that the night-
fly and the May-fly succeed well ; and I believe any gaudy
fly will do for the salmon. I used to kill eight or ten
couple of wild-fowl every day, and a great many snipes.
As to food, I purveyed one hundred and twenty pounds of
beef in London, and had it stewed by the man- cook at
Mivart's into a strong jelly, which I had poured into the
windpipe of oxen (to be had in any shambles). It became
quite hard, and never turned mouldy. About an inch of it
put into a conjuror (which is an indispensable piece of fur
niture), with a ptarmigan or two, or a duck, made as fine a
dish as you could get at Very's, particularly with the addi
478 APPENDIX.
tion of sorrel, the first plant that shows itself when the wind
has cleared the ground of snow.
A few pounds of French chocolate are of the greatest use.
In Norway and Sweden milk may be had every where ; and
in Lapland rein-deer milk. A little rice is a good thing ;
it packs close. In every Swedish town a capital travelling
biscuit is soldthe best sort of bread they make.
The best way of going to the Swedish peninsula (unless by
steam) is from Harwich to Gottenburg by the regular
packets, the fastest vessels I have ever been in.
The best mode of travelling is to take a small and strong
English phaeton, with stout plain harness for very small
horses. The collars should open at tlie top, which makes
them fit horses of every size and shape. There should be
a seat behind for one servant and the peasant to whom the
horses belong ; for a very small sum the latter will run all
the way.
Independent of the light phaeton, it is an excellent plan
to buy in the country a small open waggon : three horses
will draw this at the same pace as the phaeton. It will
carry all the luggage, the dogs, and the native servant, who
will drive it right well.
One of the most useful auxiliaries is a good water-dog,
who will hunt the bogs and bring the birds. A pair of
Cambridgeshire fen boots, waterproofa cloak, waterproof,
and trowsers ditto, are no bad things, where it is necessary
to have much boat work, or to throw a fly into deep water.
A knapsack I found of use.
With regard to bugs, they are to be met with, as well as the
insufferable brute the mosquito. But I found a strong
decoction of colocynth or bitter apple a good remedy, or
rather preventive of their attacks. The mosquitoes used to
sting me in the wrists, and occasion bad painful wounds : I
APPENDIX. 479
THE END.
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