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Agriculture and Human Values 17: 233243, 2000.

2000 Kluwer Academic Publishers. Printed in the Netherlands.

Forces impacting the production of organic foods

Karen Klonsky
Department of Agricultural and Resource Economics, University of California Davis, California, USA

Accepted in revised form February 6, 2000

Abstract. Roughly 20 percent of organic cropland was devoted to produce compared to only 3 percent for
conventional agriculture in 1995. At the other extreme, only 6 percent of organic cropland was in corn production
while 25 percent of all cropland produced corn. Only 30 percent of all organic farmland was in pasture and
rangeland compared to 66 percent of all farmland. Clearly, these differences reflect the greater importance of meat
and dairy production in agriculture overall than in the organic subsector. In recent years, the organic industry has
grown not only in volume but in products offered, moving well beyond fresh produce into dairy, snacks, and
frozen foods. The estimated growth in retail sales of organic foods averaged over 20 percent a year for the last
eight years compared to only two percent in the food industry overall, reaching an estimated $4.5 billion in 1998.
The mix of commodities produced at the farm level have and will continue to change in response to several
dynamic forces, including consumer demand, regulation, and consolidations, mergers, and mainstream entrants at
the farm, manufacturing, and retail levels. Consumer demand for organic foods has been spurred by a number of
factors including concerns over pesticide residues on foods, food produced using genetically modified organisms
(GMOs), and hormones in dairy and meat products. These concerns coupled with the overall increase in demand
for convenience foods explain the phenomenal recent growth of over 70 percent in sales of organic snacks, candy,
and frozen foods. The result has been increased demand for GMO-free grains for snacks, cereals, soy products,
and feed for dairy cows. The recent allowance by USDA for the labeling of meat and poultry as organic will
accelerate already heightened demand for organic grain and feed from the organic dairy industry. Although the
fastest growth in organic foods has been in categories other than produce, clearly produce plays an important role
in the consumers decision on where to shop, and demand should increase with the overall increase in the number of
organic consumers. Market outlets now include sophisticated natural food store chains, gourmet specialty stores,
and e-commerce, allowing for a broadened array of products. Mainstream agricultural producers, manufacturers,
and supermarket chains have entered the organic marketplace at a time of low prices for commodities at the farm
gate, fierce competition for retail shelf space, and increasingly sophisticated targeting of consumers. Inevitably,
these changes in food products offered and in retail outlets will lead to an organic agriculture that increasingly
resembles the conventional food industry.

Key words: Organic agriculture, Organic certification, Natural food

Karen Klonsky is an extension specialist at the University of California at Davis in the Department of
Agricultural and Resource Economics. Her research focuses on the economic viability of organic and sustainable
farming systems as well as the evolution of the organic market.

Domestic sales of organic products in 1998 are estim- The growth in organic sales reflects concern of
ated to be $4.5 billion, which includes $500600 an increasing segment of consumers with food safety,
million in exports and $200300 million in herbs and including pesticide residues, genetically modified
non-food organic products. The estimated growth in organisms (GMOs), hormones and antibiotics present
organic food sales was 14 percent in 1998, and aver- in food, as well as the negative environmental impact
aged about 20 percent a year over the last eight years of conventional agriculture production methods. A
compared to about two percent in the food industry recent consumer study concluded that ten percent of
overall (Nutrition Business Journal, 1999). It is not consumers regularly buy organic food and 50 percent
surprising that organic foods have attracted main- of consumers are potential purchasers of organic and
stream food manufacturers and supermarket chains to natural food. (Hartman, 1997). Paralleling the growing
enter the organic marketplace in a substantial way in demand, the acreage of certified organic production
addition to the increasing number of natural foods increased by 91 percent from 1991 to 1995. In a
grocery stores and mail order and Internet sales. 1998 survey of organic farmers nationwide, 56 percent
234 K AREN K LONSKY

planned to increase production and only two percent gers and expansion within the natural foods industry,
were getting smaller (OFRF, 1998). and the entry of mainstream food companies. Finally,
Industry growth has meant the evolution of regula- the paper will return to the producer, and briefly
tion of organic food production to maintain consumer present some of the philosophical issues and phys-
confidence. Currently 30 states have organic laws and ical constraints that enter into the enterprise selection
there are over 40 certification entities providing third decision at the individual grower level.
party certification active in the United States, each with
its own set of standards (Fetter, 1999). There is general
industry consensus that a national set of standards is Certified organic agriculture in the United States
necessary to enhance interstate and international trade.
In 1990, the US Congress passed the Organic Foods The organic subsector is still quite small, with less than
Production Act to accomplish just that. But the imple- one percent of US farmland certified as organic. Certi-
mentation of the law proved to be more difficult than fied organic farmland can be grossly divided between
first imagined, and the final rule has not been approved pasture/rangeland and cropland. Certified organic pas-
as of the time of this writing. ture and rangeland steadily declined from 532,050
Growth has also given rise to new marketing out- acres in 1991 to 276,300 acres in 1995, while organic
lets, including sophisticated natural food store chains, cropland increased from 403,400 acres to 638,500
gourmet specialty stores, and e-commerce, allowing acres over the same time period (Table 1). In 1995,
for a broadened array of products. Mainstream pro- cropland represented 70 percent of all organic certified
ducers, manufacturers, and supermarket chains have land compared to only 43 percent in 1991. Clearly, the
entered the organic marketplace at a time of low prices growth in organic agriculture has been in crops and not
for commodities at the farm gate, fierce competition livestock production. It follows that organic cropland
for retail shelf space, and increasingly sophisticated should have a smaller proportion of feed crops than
targeting of consumers. US agriculture as a whole.
These dynamic forces, namely, consumer prefer- In fact, this is borne out by comparing the acre-
ences, regulation, and the mainstreaming of organic age devoted to major crops for US agriculture and the
food both at the manufacturing and retail levels will not organic subsector. Four crops, corn, wheat, hay, and
only influence the rate of growth of organic production soybeans, comprised over 80 percent of US cropland
but also the mix of commodities produced and who in 1995 (Table 2). These same crops represented only
produces them. The organic market began primarily in 49 percent of organic cropland. In contrast, orchards
the area of fresh produce. The introduction of frozen were 8 percent of organic cropland as compared to 2
foods, grain snacks, cereals, and, most recently, dairy percent of all cropland, and vegetables were 12 per-
products have met with phenomenal growth rates, bey- cent of certified organic cropland as opposed to only 1
ond those of organic foods in general. Demand for percent of all cropland.
these foods and the allowance by USDA of labeling The geographic distribution of cropland by region
meat as organic beginning in 1998, have, and will is also markedly different for certified organic pro-
continue to increase the demand for organic feed and duction than for US agriculture. Almost two thirds of
pasture. organic cropland is in the western half of the United
Before examining the forces impacting organic pro- States (Pacific: 12 percent; Mountain: 25 percent;
duction in greater detail, organic production in the and Northern Plains: 25 percent). These same regions
United States will be described in terms of commod- represent only about one third of all US cropland
ities produced and the number and size of organic (Pacific: 4 percent; Mountain: 8 percent; and North-
farms in order to identify trends that are already tak- ern Plains: 24 percent). The Corn Belt, which is 25
ing place and to establish a point of reference for the percent of all cropland, is only 11 percent of certified
discussion of changing demand for organic commod- organic cropland. This is not surprising considering
ities. Next, the regulation of organic production will the relative difference in corn as a percentage of total
be explained. In particular, the legalities of certifica- acreage. Also, the very small size of the organic sub-
tion and the labeling of organic meat will be examined sector means that a few relatively large farms strongly
for their potential impact on the demand for organic influence the picture of regional distribution.
feed. The focus will then turn to consumer adoption Unfortunately, the national statistics presented
of organic foods. Particular attention will be given above for the organic subsector exist only for grow-
to processed food, produce, meat and dairy products, ers certified by a third party because the certification
GMO-free grains, and soy products. The discussion groups are currently the major source of information.
then turns to the retail sector and the mainstreaming Many organic growers are not certified and would not
of organic foods, including product development, mer- show up in these statistics (OFRF, 1998). However,
F ORCES IMPACTING THE PRODUCTION OF ORGANIC FOODS 235
Table 1. Certified organic agriculture as a subsector of US agriculture, 19911995.

Year US agriculture1 Certified organic agriculture2


Number of Land in Range & Number of Land in Range &
Farms Farms Pasture Cropland Farms Farms Pasture Cropland

1,000 1,000 acres 1,000 acres 1,000 acres Number Acres Acres Acres

1991 2,117 981,736 644,736 337,000 2,753 479,350 N/A N/A


(66) (34)
1992 2,108 978,503 641,503 337,000 3,587 935,450 532,050 403,400
(66) (34) (57) (43)
1993 2,083 976,463 646,463 330,000 3,536 955,650 591,850 363,800
(66) (34) (62) (49)
1994 2,065 973,403 634,403 339,000 4,060 1,001,450 44,700 556,750
(65) (35) (44) (56)
1995 2,063 972,253 640,253 332,000 4,856 914,800 276,300 638,500
(66) (34) (30) (70)
Note: Numbers in parentheses are range and pasture, and cropland as a percentage of land in farms.
Sources:
1. US Department of Commerce.
2. Anton Dunn, 1997.

evidence from California suggests that the national dated to be comprised of four farmers, two handlers or
statistics for certified organic production closely rep- processors, one retailer, one scientist, three consumer
resents total organic acreage although it seriously or public interest advocates, and three environmental-
underestimates the number of growers due to the fact ists, all serving five year terms.
that large farms tend to be certified while small farms As part of its deliberations, the NOSB made a set of
do not (Klonsky and Tourte, 1998). Since the focus recommendations that included a definition of organic
of this paper is the growth and changing commodity in 1995. The recommendations described organic agri-
mix of organic commodities, the data presented serve culture as an ecological production management sys-
to establish the baseline for discussion. tem that is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs.
The recommendations further talk about achieving
the goals of organic agriculture through methods that
Regulation of organic food in the United States employ inputs that minimize environmental degrada-
tion.
The Organic Foods Protection Act of 1990 (OFPA) The principal guidelines for organic production are
was passed by the United States Congress to estab- to use materials and practices that enhance the eco-
lish national standards for using the term organic on logical balance of natural systems and that integrate
the labeling of agricultural products. The objective of the parts of the farming system into an ecological
the standards is to assure consumers that food labeled whole. Organic agriculture practices cannot ensure that
organic meets a consistent set of production criteria products are completely free of residues; however,
and in so doing facilitate commerce in food marketed methods are used to minimize pollution to air, soil,
as organic. As such, OFPA can be viewed as con- and water. The primary goal of organic agriculture is to
sumer protection and market enhancement legislation. optimize the health and productivity of interdependent
It does not directly address food safety issues, envir- communities of soil life, plants, animals, and people.
onmental protection, or the economic viability of rural Reaching agreement on allowable inputs does not
communities. necessarily mean a reduction in total inputs. At one
OFPA established the National Organic Program extreme, it could mean organic farming by neg-
(NOP) within USDA and also provided for the lect, where farmers minimize or eliminate the use
appointment of the National Organic Standards Board of pesticides and fertilizers. At the other extreme,
(NOSB) by the US Secretary of Agriculture to advise organic could mean prophylactic use of acceptable
the Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) on the inputs including nonrenewable minerals. Neither of
development of OFPA regulations. The NOSB is man- these approaches is consistent with the view of organic
236 K AREN K LONSKY

Table 2. Crop acreage for selected crops US agriculture and the organic
subsector, 1995.

United States1 Certified organic2


1000 Acres % Total 1000 Acres % Total

Corn 71,826 25 33 6
Wheat 62,712 20 96 18
Hay 59,679 19 84 16
Soybeans 57,347 19 47 9
Cotton 12,783 4 33 6
Barley 6,753 2 17 3
Rice 2,833 1 8 2
Rye 381 <1 3 1
Sunflower 2,486 1 14 3
Vegetables 3,405 1 62 12
Orchards 3,685 2 44 8
Other 24,733 8 36 7
Total cropland 308,623 100 536 100
Sources:
1. USDA, NASS.
2. Anton Dunn, 1997.

agriculture as an approach to farming that works in agriculture, farmers markets, and roadside stands. In
harmony with and enhances natural systems and eco- these cases consumers are in direct contact with the
logical processes. In practice, neither extreme would farmer and in a sense conduct their own informal
be economically viable unless the increase in gross certification.
income from organic price premiums would outweigh As early as the 1970s, as organic agriculture moved
the declining production performance in the case of beyond sole reliance on direct sales to customers, the
passive management or the high cost of the intensive need for third party certification to facilitate growth
organic system. became apparent. Third party certification means that
The USDA did not publish a proposed rule for an entity other than the buyer or seller certifies that the
the labeling of agricultural products as organic until product being sold as organic meets a specific set of
December 1997, seven years after the passage of OFPA production standards set by the certifying entity. Estab-
and five years after the first meeting of the NOSB. lished in 1973, California Certified Organic Farmers
Soon after, USDA received an unprecedented 280,000 (CCOF) became the first certification entity in the
public comments voicing concerns over the regulations United States. By 1985, there were at least 12 and by
after which Secretary Glickman prudently promised to 1990 at least 35 certification entities each with their
revise the rules with additional input from industry and own set of standards and operating procedures (Fetter,
the NOSB. The revised proposed rule is expected to be 1999).
released in February 2000. By 1997, thirteen state and thirty private entities
actively provided certification services in the United
Certification States (OFRF, 1997). All of the state and most of the
private organizations certify in one state only, although
Organic certification by a third party means that the several organizations certify in more than one state.
farming practices of a farm have been assessed by a It is also possible, and not uncommon, for a farm to
certification entity to meet the standards of that entity. be certified by more than one certifying organization.
OFPA requires certification for all growers marketing Relatively large producers with respect to volume sold
their product as organic to ensure consumers and often contract with smaller growers to meet demand.
buyers that the organic food they buy is as claimed. Usually the certification is held by the larger entity.
OFPA exempts growers with gross sales of $5,000 Certifiers generally develop their own standards,
or less from mandatory certification. The logic being which may be stricter than state law. These stand-
that growers with very small sales are most likely ards include a listing of allowable and prohibited
direct marketing through such outlets as subscription materials, buffer zone requirements, consequences of
F ORCES IMPACTING THE PRODUCTION OF ORGANIC FOODS 237

unintentional contamination by prohibited materials, labeling of meat and poultry. Until recently, FSIS
requirements for residue testing of crops, and livestock would not approve the use of the term organic for the
practices. The standards of certification entities vary labeling of meat or poultry, stating that it could not do
with regard to each of these categories. so before the implementation of the OFPA regulations.
Currently only 17 states have laws requiring cer- In April 1999, in response to requests by a number
tification in order for food products to be labeled of meat and poultry producers and recognizing that
organic (Fetter, 1999). Another 13 states have many organic certifying groups already had rules in
organic laws that require registration with the state place for poultry and meat production, FSIS reversed
and compliance with state standards for organic but do its position and allowed the term certified organic by
not require third-party certification, and twenty states (a certifying entity) for labeling of meat and poultry.
have no organic law. As stated earlier, OFPA will In other words, the term certified organic by must be
require certification by an accredited third party cer- immediately followed by the name of the certifier on
tifier in order for food products to be labeled organic the label.
for farmers grossing more than $5,000. Therefore, Under FSIS policy, processors have to submit their
many organic farmers marketing their products as proposed labels to the Labeling and Additives Policy
organic are not certified organic (OFRF, 1998). At Division of FSIS for approval along with required doc-
first blush the potential for fraud seems significant. umentation. This includes (1) the name of the meat or
However, many processors require certification. Also, poultry product, (2) the certifying entities name and
organic products sold across state lines must adhere address, (3) the name and signature of the certifying
to the law of the state in which the sale is made. entitys official, (4) the date of certification, and (5)
Therefore, growers selling to processors or out of a statement by the certifier that it has standards for
state normally secure voluntary third-party certifica- certification of meat and poultry as organically pro-
tion. Most growers of any size would fall into one duced and a system for evaluating compliance with
or both of these categories. More problematic are the those standards.
differences among certifier standards that have lead to In making this policy, FSIS avoided defining the
confusion for consumers and barriers to international term organic. Rather it enabled the use of the claim
trade. certified organic by (a certifying entity) during the
The proposed standards of the Organic Foods Pro- interim period until such time that OFPA regulations
duction Act (OFPA) include a provision that agri- are in place. Ultimately, USDA is responsible for
cultural products labeled as organic must be grown defining the term organic under OFPA as it is applied
following an organic farm plan agreed to by the grower to agricultural products, including meat and poultry. It
and an accredited certifying agent. The certification is important to note that FSIS guidance for using the
and farm plan requirements provide a mechanism to claim certified organic by became the first national
reduce organic agriculture farming by neglect and standard requiring certification of organic food. As
input overuse dilemmas. such it preempts the requirements for accreditation of
In fact, certification agencies have already been certification entities that will be set out in the OFPA
working toward this end. All of the major certifiers final rule. It also does not address the differences in
require a written farm management plan as part of certification standards set by different certifiers.
their application that must be updated annually (Fetter, In fact, current standards for certification of live-
1999). For example, the California Certified Organic stock vary by certifier. For example, most certifiers
Farmers (CCOF), the largest certifying agency act- require that slaughter animals must be fed organic feed
ive in California, requires a long-term program of from birth while others require one year and still others
ecological soil management (CCOF, 1996) in addi- 90 days (Fetter, 1999). Certifiers require 100 percent
tion to adherence to state law, which prohibits the of feed to be certified organic but certifiers differ in
use of synthetically compounded materials. The CCOF emergency provisions in case of drought, fire, flood, or
Handbook further state that, it is not acceptable to other natural disaster leading to a feed shortage. The
simply eliminate the use of synthetic materials and NOP proposed rule allows for up to 20 percent of feed
manage by benign neglect. This approach can lead to be non-organic if necessary, although the term if
to exhaustion of soil resources, poor quality crops, and necessary is not well defined. Many certifiers prohibit
ultimate operation failure. extended or lifetime indoor confinement while others
do not.
Certified organic meat and poultry It is not surprising that as the OFPA rules process
dragged on, many producers dropped their certification
The Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS), of organic pasture and rangeland. There is little doubt
an agency within USDA, has jurisdiction over the that the recent FSIS policy will result in an increase in
238 K AREN K LONSKY

certified pasture and rangeland as well as an increase in frozen foods, and dairy products (Nutrition Business
the production of organic feed crops. How much of the Journal, 1999). Manufacturers reported that 31 per-
increased production of feed crops comes from conver- cent of organic processed products are now sold in
sion of conventional acreage to organic and how much mass market grocery stores and 62 percent through
comes from changes in rotations on existing organic natural foods stores. This varied by type of food.
cropland remains to be seen. Fifty five percent of canned and jarred organic foods
such as baby foods, pasta sauces, soups, and fruit
juices were sold through conventional grocery stores.
Consumer demand for organic foods For dairy products, 46 percent of sales were through
conventional outlets.
Organic sales have grown by over 20 percent a year for Three major food manufacturers have entered the
the last eight years compared to less than two percent organic market. Interestingly, all three targeted famil-
for total supermarket sales in 1998 (Nutrition Busi- ies with young children. Gerber and H. J. Heinz were
ness Journal, 1999), which is one reason why it has the first major food manufacturers to enter the organic
attracted so much attention. Having said that, it is also market, both with organic baby food (Gerber, owned
important to realize that the organic market is still a by the biotech firm Novartis, established Tender Har-
very small part of the entire food system. The natural vest baby foods and H. J. Heinz owns Earths Best
foods industry (which includes organic foods and nat- Baby Foods). In 1999, General Mills introduced Hori-
ural foods) is about $10 billion, only 1.6 percent of zon organic cereal as a family cereal, a combination
the total US food system of about $631 billion in sales of organic wheat, corn, oats, and brown rice, with the
from retail food service channels. This is one reason largest marketing campaign in the companys history
organic sales can grow at such a fast rate (i.e., a higher estimated at over $15 million. As a point of reference,
percentage growth is easier to attain on a smaller total the total promotional spending of the largest natural
dollar figure). foods company, Small Planet Foods, was $15 million
In the United States, almost half of expenditures this year.
on food are made away from home and organic and
natural food sales through these channels are still infin- Produce
itesimal. Organic is beginning to make an impact at
the retail level. One percent of sales in a category is Produce consists of vegetables, fruits, and nuts.
considered significant to retailers. So organic products Organic produce sales in 1998 accounted for 1.7 per-
are being viewed like specialty items that can act as cent of total retail produce sales of $46.4 billion equal-
points of differentiation in influencing where people ing $789 million (McLaughlin et al., 1998). Organic
shop. produce sales accounted for 23 percent of the total $3.5
According to a study by Hartman, 10 percent of billion in organic food sales, excluding exports (Nutri-
consumers regularly purchase organic foods, while tion Business Journal, 1999). By way of comparison,
about 50 percent are potential consumers of organic the produce departments of conventional supermarkets
and natural foods. Consumption of organic food is account for about 14 percent of food sales (Roberta
skewed geographically in the United States, with Cook, personal communication).
the heaviest demand in the Western States and in Organic produce is purchased by a broad base of
urban areas (Hartman, 1997). Retailers are giving organic consumers. Over a third of consumers who
organic products shelf space in stores with the right buy organic products buy produce compared to only
demographics as opposed to the Alar era strategy of 3.6 percent of organic consumers who buy organic
chain-wide introductions that proved to be a disaster. dairy products and 0.7 percent who buy frozen foods.
The general trend in supermarkets is toward micro- (Hartman, 1997). Further, most consumers who buy
marketing facilitated by the electronic data collected fresh produce tend to buy other categories of organic
with customer cards. This helps retailers to better foods. The Fresh Trends 1998 (The Packer, 1998)
target the markets for specialty items like organic consumer survey found that of consumers who had
products. purchased organic fresh produce in the last six months,
83 percent had purchased one or more types of fresh
Processed organic foods vegetables, compared to only 28 percent who had
bought one or more type of fresh fruit. Therefore,
The Organic Trade Association Manufacturers Mar- fresh vegetables appear to be important to marketing
ket Survey response reported that the highest growth strategies and positioning even though they have not
from 1997 to 1998 in consumption of organic foods exhibited the same rapid growth as sales in other food
in the United States was in grain snacks and candies, categories.
F ORCES IMPACTING THE PRODUCTION OF ORGANIC FOODS 239

Produce presents the greatest opportunities for dir- Organic dairy cows must be fed 100 percent
ect sales to consumers and restaurants through farmers organic grain although certifiers differ in the length of
markets, roadside stands, and subscription sales, out- time the cow must be fed organic feed before it attains
lets commonly used by small farmers. Almost three- organic status. Obviously, the demand for organic feed
fourths of all organic farms grew produce in 1994 will increase along with the increase in the supply of
(Anton Dunn, 1995), which accounted for only 20 per- organic milk.
cent of all organic acreage (Table 2), demonstrating
the high proportion of small vegetable, fruit, and nut GMO-free grains and legumes
growers in the organic industry. Although the fastest
growth in organic foods has been in categories other One of the most well publicized objections to the NOP
than produce, clearly produce plays an important role Proposed Rule was the allowance of genetically mod-
in a consumers decision on where to shop and in ified organisms (GMOs) in the production of food
sustaining small organic producers. labeled as organic. The proposed rule also allowed for
the use of GMOs in processed organic food and made
Meat and dairy products possible the feeding of GMO plants to livestock by
requiring only 80 percent of feed fed to livestock to
Consumers who say they are very concerned about be organically produced. The NOSB recommendations
food safety related to food were most concerned about explicitly precluded the use of genetically modified
meat, seafood, and dairy products, according to a organisms, which includes genetically modified seed.
consumer survey in 1998 (The Packer, 1998). Fifty- While it is now virtually certain that GMOs will not
five percent were very concerned about the safety be included on the National List in the next proposal,
of meat products, 52 percent about the safety of the allowance of GMOs and other substances specific-
seafood products, and 44 percent concerned about ally prohibited by the NOSB recommendations raised
the safety of dairy products compared to 29 per- a broader question of the future role of the NOSB
cent concerned about the safety of produce. Specific vis--vis the Secretary of Agriculture. In so doing,
concerns include the prophylactic use of hormones the proposed rule denied the NOSB the power to pro-
and antibiotics in livestock production. With respect hibit substances for inclusion on the National List
to dairy products, rBGH, a genetically engineered and instead placed the NOSB in an advisory role to
growth hormone that increases milk production, is the Secretary of Agriculture. Unless the NOSB has
of concern to some consumers, as current law does the responsibility and power to curtail USDA con-
not require labeling of dairy products produced with sideration of allowed and prohibited substances, the
rBGH. possibility exists that GMOs will be given organic
Organic dairy products is one of the fastest grow- status in the future, even if excluded in the initial
ing segments of the organic market. Several organic regulations.
dairies are marketing on a national level including GMOs threaten organic agriculture in other ways.
Horizon Dairy of Colorado and Organic Valley in With the mergers of seed companies and the rapid
Wisconsin. Horizons sales were $49.4 million in adoption of transgenic seeds by US farmers, it may
1998 up 67 percent from $29.6 million in 1997. be difficult or impossible to obtain non-GMO seed for
Horizon Organic Dairy accounts for about one half organic production. The merger of DuPont and Pion-
of the organic dairy market. It has steadily been eer seed early in 1999 split most of the US field seed
acquiring dairies including Organic Cow of Vermont industry between Monsanto and DuPont (Kirschem-
(also a national distributor) and Rachels Organic ann, 1999). For crops that are pollinated by insects, the
Dairy in Wales, England (Stephens and Pennybacker, risk of cross pollination from neighboring transgenic
1999). crops will increase with increased acreage planted to
In early 1999, Horizon signed an international GMO seed.
trademark licensing agreement with Takanashi Milk No discussion of the GMO issue can ignore the
products of Japan. Horizon has already been supplying pressure that European concerns over GMO food place
organic feed and organic dairy products for Takanashi on biotechnology firms and grain brokers. Some bio-
as well as providing technical expertise to Takanashi technology firms have responded by selling off their
farmers transitioning to organic agriculture. Horizon agriculture divisions. In September of 1999, Archer
also contracts with a number of small dairies that Daniels Midland recommended that its grain suppli-
benefit from the marketing expenditures and the suc- ers begin to segregate genetically modified crops from
cess Horizon has had in introducing new products and conventional crops, suggesting that they may begin
expanding the organic dairy market. labeling of GMO grain (Alternative Agriculture News,
240 K AREN K LONSKY

Table 3. Growth rate of organic sales by category for major food categories excluding produce.

Historic Projected
Category 1997 19921997 1998 19982000

Categories with similar distributions to overall distribution by marketing outlet:


Beverages 22 52 26 22
Cereals 39 40 24 54
Condiments/sauces/conserves 21 78 15 25
Nuts/dried fruit/beans/grain 16 41 11 11

Categories more likely to be found in mass market groceries than overall distribution:
Dairy 92 17 53 44
Frozen 40 39 69 40
Grain products 10 17 16 13
Canned/jarred 10 67 1 8

Categories more likely to be found in health and natural food stores than overall distribution:
Baking mixes/sweeteners 10 5 7 2
Grain snacks/candy 90 4 89 60
Oils 20 22 20 15
Vegetarian 14 15 15 15

All categories 36 42 30 30

Source: Organic Trade Association, 1998 Organic Manufacturer Market Survey.

1999). An obvious consequence would be the creation Mainstreaming organic food


of a two-tier pricing system.
Health and NF stores represent 62 percent, mass mar-
Soy products ket 31 percent, and club stores 3 percent (OTA, 1998).
Not surprisingly, certain categories of foods are more
The Food and Drug Administration has very recently or less likely to be found in natural food stores than
allowed health claims for soy products, which should mass market grocery stores. In particular, dairy and
boost sales. However, soybeans have the largest per- frozen foods are more likely to be sold in mass mar-
centage of genetically modified seeds of any crop ket grocery stores while snacks, candy, and vegetarian
grown in the United States. In 1997, about 20 per- entrays are more common in health and natural food
cent of the soy was from genetically modified seed, stores than conventional grocery stores (Table 3). As
40 percent in 1998, and 65 percent in 1999 (Nutrition these venues vie for market share, they will also
Business Journal, 1999). Manufacturers are acutely be looking for different products for their shelves.
aware that increasing concern about soybeans grown Therefore, market share by retail outlet will indirectly
from genetically modified seed could cause a decrease impact the demand for raw organic commodities.
in human consumption. In response, soy manufactur- Growth in organic sales has meant consolidation,
ers are using organic soy to maintain consumer confid- mergers and public offerings of organic food com-
ence. A reported 90 percent of the soy foods compan- panies, and purchases of organic companies by con-
ies in the US reported buying some or all organically ventional competitors. Wild Oats Markets, Inc. owns
grown soybeans (Nutrition Business Journal, 1999). 71 stores in 19 states, including Alfalfas Markets
Sales of soy milk grew 20 percent from 1997 to and four other chains. Whole Foods Market owns
1998 and sales of tofu increased 15 percent. Although 95 stores in 21 states, including Bread and Circus,
less than 2 percent of the soybeans grown in the United Fresh Fields, Mrs. Goochs, and three other chains
States go to human consumption, increased demand (Stephens et al., 1999). Several organic manufactur-
from the soy food industry could put upward pressure ers have been bought by conventional companies and
on organic soybean prices for livestock operations. In three large conventional companies have developed
1997, organic soybean prices were 141 percent above successful organic products. Many conventional mass
conventional prices in the US (Dobbs, 1998). market grocery stores carry organic products, carefully
F ORCES IMPACTING THE PRODUCTION OF ORGANIC FOODS 241

selecting stores based on the demographics of their Philosophical issues and physical constraints for
customers. organic growers
While many advocates view these changes as
important for increasing consumption of organic foods Many supporters of organic agriculture maintain that
and demand at the farm level, others fear that con- regional production and a close link between producers
solidation will mean falling prices for farmers. Price and consumers is a necessary condition for achieving
premiums for organic commodities are viewed as a the environmental and social goals of organic agricul-
critical factor in maintaining family farms. Increased ture. One of this views most articulate proponents,
demand for grains for processed organic foods could Fred Kirschemann, advocates foodsheds, as opposed
lead to contracts with corporate organic farms, or cor- to global markets. He defines a foodshed as a regional
porate farms that diversify into organic production. subdivision (similar to a watershed) defined by biolo-
Either scenario could squeeze out the current organic gical, social, and economic boundaries that make up
family farms by lowering price premiums for organic a desirable food production and consumption region.
products. The first priority of the foodshed would be to pro-
Criticism has been levied against the large nat- duce all of the nutrient requirements for the people
ural food store chains because of their potential to put living in the foodshed, by people in the foodshed. The
smaller natural food stores and coops out of business second priority would be to produce food for export
and because they do not purchase produce from local (Kirschemann, 1997 quoted in Dobbs et al., 1999).
small growers. Recognizing these concerns, the large The foodshed concept would mean consumers eating
chains have chosen their locations carefully, trying not seasonal fresh produce or produce in forms other than
to destroy established smaller stores. Whole Foods, fresh out of season.
admitting that they cannot buy directly from small It can be argued that a global marketplace can work
growers who cannot supply enough product, has star- counter to the goals of organic agriculture. Long dis-
ted holding weekly farmers markets in their parking tance shipments use fossil fuels and contribute to air
lots to show support to small growers. pollution, thereby contributing to the negative envir-
One scenario of the future of organic agriculture onmental impacts of agriculture. Imports may also
follows the conventional model with increased vertical compete with local producers, depending on the time
coordination and consolidation. This view is consistent of year. Further, exporting organic food out of a region
with growth in the organic market primarily through to realize price premiums in a distant market means
conventional channels, including mass market grocery that the highest quality food is leaving the region. Oth-
stores and Internet sales. It also means a global market ers place less emphasis on regionalization and feel that
with increased international trade. growth in the organic market inevitably means that
If expanding the organic market means increas- farmers will be selling to national and international
ing the diversity of foods available and making foods markets. Consistent with this view are mergers and
available over a longer period of time, then clearly marketing agreements that increase access to markets.
some needs will be met with imports and the oppor- It follows that the philosophy of the individual
tunity for exports is increased. Already the presence of producer regarding the goals of organic agriculture
imported produce has increased in organic retail out- will strongly influence the choice of commodities pro-
lets. Consumers concerned primarily with the personal duced. A strong commitment to working in harmony
health aspects of organic rather than the environmental with nature and avoiding off-farm inputs whenever
or social consequences will probably be receptive to possible will mean an emphasis on crop diversity, soil
imported organic food. building crops, and avoiding crops for which organic
For foods that can only be produced in a small geo- methods are not well developed or that require intens-
graphic area, such as almonds in California, expanding ive use of biorational pesticides. A commitment to
production inevitably has meant marketing worldwide. increasing local production and consumption of food
Organic production generally occurs in areas that have may mean growing crops for which the area does
a comparative advantage in that commodity for con- not have a comparative advantage. In this case the
ventional agriculture and the infrastructure for that farmer will inevitably rely on organic price premiums
commodity, such as processing facilities for cleaning to remain economically viable.
seed, canneries, and storage facilities. For example, in Even with price premiums, farmers may be reluct-
1995 about half of the organic soybeans were grown in ant to convert to organic production because of high
five Midwestern states (Alton Dunn, 1997). production costs and thin markets. For example, soy-
beans represent only 9 percent of organic cropland
compared to 19 percent of conventional cropland
(Table 2). This is in part because organic farming
242 K AREN K LONSKY

systems rely on crop rotation and greater diversity range and pastureland has actually decreased. There
than conventional systems. Yet, the land must stay in seems little question that this trend will reverse itself,
organic production even in years when crops are grown if it has not already, with the new labeling provisions
that command little or no organic premium. Therefore, for meat and the steady increase in dairy production.
while a farmer may show a large profit on an individual While few could argue against the positive envir-
organic field crop in a rotation such as wheat, corn, and onmental implications of expansion of organic agri-
soybeans, finding suitable organic crops to fill out the culture, many worry that the entry of mainstream
rotation has often proved problematic. processors and retailers may obfuscate the distinction
between organic and conventional food products and
weaken the organic market. The real battle will be for
Discussion shelf space at mass market grocery stores, where com-
petition has mounted among all producers. Already
The organic industry now has a strong foothold in the about one third of organic products are sold through
food sector, with almost two percent of total food sales mass market grocery stores, with a disproportionately
growing at an annual rate of 20 percent a year. The fast- higher percent of processed foods and dairy products
est growth appears to be in commodities where food sold through these outlets. Although rarely expressed
safety related to GMOs is an issue for an identifiable verbally, there are many farmers, processors, and
segment of consumers and also in convenience foods retailers who may have a vested interest in the organic
including snacks, candy, frozen foods, and refrigerated industry limiting its growth.
juices.
The rapid growth coupled with the anticipated
national standards, has encouraged mainstream pro- References
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