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    Lutterloh Home Study Course PDF

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    INSTRUCTIONS mS iY Co Rule” HOME STUDY COURSE complete with record STUDIO Sai INC. INTERNATIONAL PATTERN DESIGNS index COPYRIGHT 1956 BY HEINZ BLUDAU - atuce lahal we. - MIAMI, FLORIDA, U.S.A, PAGI E “5 a Introduction Equipment Measurements required Measuring The Scale Setting the Scale The special tape measure Practice Pattern Card Preparations Step 1. Making your dots Step 2. Drewing your lines Step 3. Selecting your “GOLDEN RULE” pattern Explanation of markings Abbreviations Making sleeves, skirts, ote. Collars Trimmings and belts Facings One-piece patterns Knitting patterns Yardage Hints ole Golden Rule” “4 on Beier sci Equip ment into being through the combined talents of a Vien- nese Fashion Designer and a German Mathemati- tian, Between the two, one an expert on fashion, the other an expert in numbers, they created a system which you can master in a matter of minutes. No longer do you need: 1. many body measurements 2. the ability to plot body proportions 3. years of training to be able to make your own patterns, In fact, you need not even add 2 + 2. Everything has been done for you. If you can make a dot and read a number you are already halfway toa finished pattern, it all comes down to the sim- ple fact, which is employed in this system, that, since time began, all living things have always fol- lowed the ‘golden rule’ of perfect measurements. Now, with the aid of your equipment, just follow ee Be sae nena the simple steps set forth here, and on your record, 3 Chirens supslement it i rr ‘ashion Supplement and in just 2 few minutes you will be the proud 4 Fashion Supplement owner of the very first pattern you have ever ea Matiemeticall drafted 7. Curved Ruler 8. Practice Pattern Card 8. Pencil 10, Paper 11, Thumbtacks PAGE 1 hat “You should know befone you stant... THE GOLDEN _ RULE, 3 at c a | SETTING THE SCALE (PICTURE 1, TOP FIGURE) MEASUREMENTS ei ONLY the BUST and HIP MEASUREMENT are used. The waist is the dividing line, and all gattora pieces lying above are mace with the BUST MEASUREMENT. All pattern pieces lying below the waist are made with the HIP MEASUREMENT. The figure measures 134 around the bust Number 134 is found in the left column on the scale ‘The line beneath this number is followed to the righthand edge of the scale for the thumbtack hole, as the arrow indicates. BUST MEASUREMENT HIP MEASUREMENT [A thumbtack would be pressed through this ole to set Bodice {front & back) skirts rnecaie SS oe sleeves slacks collars shorts, etc. THE HIP MEASUREMENT of the same figure is 120. gussets, etc ‘TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENT Measurements must always be taken with the special tape measure. Neasure your BUST or HIP by placing the flexible tnd of the tape sterling with No. 1 (under metal) firmly around the fullest part of the body. The number at wnich the tape meets is your measurement. Note down your number for future use IMPORTANT: Never measure with the end of the tape measure which has the mathematical scale attaches. If your measurements are 2n uneven number, use the nest highest even number as your measurement. THE MATHEMATICAL SCALE: The scale is your magic wand to success. It calculates all your propartions automatically 1. On the left of the scale you will find large numbers ‘0" thru 8! These are the starting numbers of the perman- ently attached tape, which continues with Nos. 8, 10, 11, 2. On the right there are 2 columns of numbers ranging from 50 through 140. Thece numbers are the various Bust and nip measurements and range from the chest of 3 One year old child to very stout figure, Number 120 ig again found on the scale, in the right column. Once again the line beneath the number is followed to the righthand edge for the thumbtack hole. [A thumbtack would be pressed through this hole to set the scale The center figure ané child give further examples of sot- ting the scale, The arrows indicate the correct thumbtack holes fer the various measurements SETTING THE SCALE WITH YOUR MEASUREMENT Take your bust measurement. Fine your number in one of the 2 columns Fellow the line beneath your number to the righthand edge. Press a thumbtack through the hole, READING THE TAPE MEASURE fs wth 2 regular ‘ane measure, tis special tape is ave it sei, Under eat uberis & re ie cs te Wick he ta TH i INDICATES THE FULL NUMBER, Catt Each full rumber is vides into TENTHS as the short lines {ital the Wh sey othe Shy Tonge ing, reoresonts Sho er He 113,01 112, woul theretere, be wnere the arow inccates. PAGE 2 PRACTICE PATTERN CARD Your sample pattern shows the front and back of 2 waistcoat. Looking at these pat tern pieces you will find: 1. across (+) in the center 2. lines projecting trom the outline at var: ous angles 3. numbers printed on each projecting line. Fig 2 Fellowing the easy instructions you will now make this waistcoat into your size. (Once the practice pattern is understood, any other style can bo made by the same easy method PREPARATIONS ‘Choose a table into which you can press thumb. tacks (or place a Doard on your tabie} Place the shest of paper on your table. (If a board is used, place paper over the board.) Place your Practice Pattem Card approximately in the center of th paper and faston it down securely with 2 thumbtacks at diagonal corners. Fig. 3 Firmly press the thumbtack, previously placed in ‘me Magic Scale, DIRECTLY INTO THE CENTER OF THE CROSS ON THE FRONT SECTION, marked A Fig. 4 You will find that your tape can now be turned treoly al around the pattern Have handy. Pencil Cutved ruler Scissors PAGE 3 step 1 ALWAYS DRAW YOUR DOTS ON THE EDGE OF THE ‘TAPE WHIGH LIES ON THE PROJECTING LINE. IMPORTANT: Now follow instructi of the sideseam (No, 16.5) follow this procedure: ‘your tape out in 2 straight line from the cross, tum itonto the line. The edge cf the scale MUST LIE EXACTLY ‘ON THE PROJECTING LINE. ‘The number printed on this line, No, 18.5 oF 18%, is now found on ‘ne tape, and a dot is drawn on the sheet of paper exactly at 16.5. SEE FIG. 5 Still holding your tape in a straight line, move it up to the armhole until the edge tles exactly on the next line The number printed on the line, No. 17, is now found on the tape, and another det is drawn on your paper. SEE FIG. 8 PAGE 4 mis on your record. a, Tur your tape until the edge lies exactly on the following, line. . The number, this time, is 15. Fing this No. 15 down on the tape, and dram your next dot SEE FIG. 7 ‘a, Move your tape onto the next projecting line . Find the new number, which this time is 15.5, on the ‘tape, and draw another dot on your paper. ‘SEE FIG, 8 a, Thenext line is at the shoulder. Line up the tape exactly. b. Find the num= ber 36 on the tape and draw your next dot. ‘Take @ look at your éots. YOU HAVE ALREADY COMPLETED SIDESEAM AND ‘ARWHOLE IN| DOT FORM SEE FIG. 8 Continue in the Same manner. Turn onto each consecu: tive line and draw dots at numbers 33.5 and 34. SEE FIG 10 Ityou will tisten to your recording, ‘full explanation is given, You will now find a separate line with No. 13 on it above the shoulder. 00 NOT FORGET TO DRAW ‘Hts DOT. 2 Place the edge of your tape on the line next to No.1. b. Find No. 13 on the tape and draw your dot. You will find that thie det places the end of the shoulder dart SEEFIG.11 PAGE 5 a Tum onto the b. Drawa dot at next line. No, 36 and you have completed your shoulder. SEE FIG. 12 a sae ee oe Let your recording, continue to guide you, and draw dots atall of the remaining lines and numbers. a Your last dot at No, 18 completes your pattern in Get form, SEE FIG. 13 Referring to your Practice Pattern you will find that the line dravn between 20 aid 18, down the front of the pat tern, is straight Ihe straight cage of your curved ruler ig therefore used to pin your 2 front o's. Line up your dots on this straight edge and draw a line, SEE FIG. 14 The following line, between 18 and 18 also straight. Line up these 2 dots on the streight edge of your ruler and join them The next ling, between 18 and 16.8, 1s sligntly curved, You must therefore Tine up your dots on the least curved section of your ruler. This section les in the center, Detween the two creases SEE FIG. 15 PAGE 6 ‘The side seam, between dots 16.5 and 47, also is slightly curved. Again using the least curved section in the center of your ruler join these 2 dots. ‘The 4 armhole dots, from shoulder to underarm, are joined with e continuous curved line, To achieve this, follow this procedure: 1. Holding the deepest curved section of your ruler pcinted towards you, move it between the upper 3 dots [Dots 32, 15.5 and 15) until all three lie exactly on the edge, and draw a line to join ther. SEE FIG. 18 2. To bring in the remaining dot, sim ply turn your ruler slightly so that 8 line may be drawn to join it with ‘2 continuous line. SEE FIG. 17 1. Using the straight edge of your The shoulder lines are straight. Using the straight edee ruler, mark in the SHOULDER of your ruler, line up 2 dots at a time and join therm. DART. The snoulcer is made up of 3 tines. Simply join the 2 center dots on the shoulder, each individ- ually, with dot 13, 2. The CENTER FRONT LINE is drawn in using the straight edge of the ruler. Starting at Dot 20, hold your ruler parallel to the outer line and draw in a broken line. 3. Parallel to this center front line you will mark THE ARROW shown on your practice pat- tern. This indicates the straight grain of the fabric, 4, Mark the LETTER ‘A’ at the armhole. This is a joining mark. The same letter ‘A’ is found in the back armhole in- dicating which seams are to be joined. 5. Marking in THE WAIST DART completes your pattern. This Having completed the front patton, place 2 fresh dart lies directly beneath the sheet of paper on your table, fasten down your bottom dot of the shoulder dart, on the straight of the fab- afd, and place your measurement into the center of the cross inthe bac pattern. Make Tretia spel tere sexe ine legos ie ric, Mark this position on your - rereali cael ae Threlcloeneel caved ae enero ate pattern, but actual depth and Your dots in the same manner as before, ‘olla Tuler towards yourseit and move between the 3 ots length is left to your taste i he tres ano uber forthe back until all lie exactly on them ‘the edge. Draw a line to join SEE FIG. 18 YOUR COMPLETED PATTERN DOES NOT ALLOW FOR SEAMS! PAGE 7 Selecting youn “Golden Rule” pattenn A Having selected your model, take note of the number in the circle. Our example shows Mods! 18. B Turn to the list in the front of your "GOLDEN RULE" headed! ©. Tum to the pattern cards at the back of a CRIT ON, Ge MODELS: your ‘GOLDEN RULE’. This cerd will have where you will find all models listed in Pattern 8! shown/in ihe paga Comer and humercal-order. At the end of the de- Model 18 Shown ina circle next to the Scription for modal 18 you will find the pattem pieces. pattern number 8. Open your bindor by pulling tho rings apart and remove the desired pattern card. Either fold or cut the removed page in half along the center Tine and fasten the card to your drawing paper with 2 thumb: tacks. You are now ready to make your pattern PAGE 8 ABBREVIATIONS MARKED ON YOUR PATTERNS MARKINGS INDICATED ON YOUR PATTERNS =Broken line on pattern edges indicate fold of ‘material NOT A SEAM, 050, gathers =elaste eee ‘Ssiraight grein of frie nes asin FF = hed quiting 6G = special pattern parmarent pleating HH = srall pleats seams tobe joined same piece tobe cut from febric 4 times ont (seave) = Shaded areas indicate double material arts, facings, pleas, etc) center back KK = woist bane LL —buttontole band N= blouse = matching ext (00 = choulder straps . Sul ies inaeates seam — 00 NOT FORGET R= alekey PP = bucke atone Rf ounce, $8 bolero Uz jabot st tecngs Wo apron Tr=peplum prcket tap vat center front Pos aa 2a gue HOW DO YOUR PROPORTIONS MEASURE UP? NOSE =the difference in eneth of your thumb and indextingor EAR =a8 long as your nose HEIGHT 8 heads (crown to chin) or length of arms across your back, fingertip to fingertip FACE length of hard, wrist te Fingertips CALF once around your neck FOOT length of your arm, inside of elbow to wrist PAGE 9 MAKING SLEEVE, SKIRT, ETC. PATTERNS If you wil took at the patterns given in your ‘GOLDEN RULE; you wil! ‘ind thet all patiem pieces have a cioss in the center, projecting lines around the citline and numbers on these lines. The same method as ‘as employed for the uaistzoat i used forall patios REMEMBER TO USE THE BUST MEASUREMENT FOR ABOVE THE WAIST AND THE HIP MEASUREMENT FOR BELOW THE WAIST. COLLARS Exceptionally small pattern pieces have the (rose positioned autsice the pattern. The Shrpe procedure ig used when drawing tre dots, ‘nth the exception that your maasurement fe Placed into ths outside cro, TRIMMINGS AND BELTS “These are draw frachand. The pattern wll Incieate the size, and using the Special ‘Tape these measurements are transferred to your paper oF materia FACINGS sre mera oar ea Be eos ee pean cers ONE PIECE PATTERNS manga in hepa 2. Mar al dte FROM THE WAIST UP ce “it ine snbvanpl) on our babe & SedteSl eliza othe np meus & bref st all dos SELOW THE WAIST Gee dieing 3 MAKING YOUR OWN KNITTING PATTERNS FOR ALL STYLES AND SIZES KNIT A. SWATCH AND GAUGE THE NUNBER OF STITCHES AND ROWS PER CENTIMETER. DRAFT YOUR PATTERN BY “THE GOLDEN RULE’ METHOD. MEASURE YOUR PATTERN AND CAST ON THE REQUIRED NUNBER LINES DECREASE YOUR WORK In ‘OF STITCHES AND INCREASE IN RC- ACCORDANCE WITS YOUR PAPER YOUR PATTERN, PATTERN. AT THE ARMHOLES AND NECK. BLOCK COMPLETED PIECE ON YOUR PAPER PATTERN. PRESS WITH A DAMP CLOTH. PAGE 10 | | yardage what to do before you buy... No list of required yerdage is given, 2s you can make each style into any ize, It must also be remembered tnet designs can be ciianged by using parts of different models. Therefore, any estimate we might possibly work ‘out would, for aitterent sizes, require varying amounts of material. Not having, ‘encugh fabric creates problems, and having too much raises the cost of your garment. We suggest the following procedure to calculate the exact yardage required: Using a large area (free floor space for instance) mark the width of the ma- terial you propose buying. Into this width place all your pattern pieces to their best advantage. BE SURE ALL ARROWS LIE ON THE STRAIGHT GRAIN AND DO NOT FORGET TO ALLOW FOR SEAMS. [Now simply measure this area lengthwise to determine the EXACT yardage required for your garment. ‘Should you wish to purchase an inexpensive piece of material without taking ‘time to measure, It Is very likely that you already know your approximate nocessary yardage. If not, the saleslady will gladly assist you if you advice her of the style you wish to make (with or without sleeves, straight or full ‘skirt, ete.) DO NOT GUESS WHEN BUYING EXPENSIVE MATERIAL. TAKE. THE TIME TO MEASURE. IT CAN SAVE YOU A SMALL FORTUNE. pea SE af PAGE 11 Fashion Changes “The Golden Rule” is a basic book on patiem-cutting. The designs and patterns contained therein, will require only ‘minor changes from time to time, to Keep them up-to-datt However, styles do change, and so that you may always keep abreast of ther, we issue 2 ceaconal Fashion Supple- ment, conte ing approximately 50 new models, complete You will be not

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