SEAMCLASSIFICATION

WhatisSeam???
Aseamisajoint consistingofa
sequenceofstitchesunitingtwoor
morepieces ofmaterial(s)andisused
forassemblingpartsinthe
productionofsewnitems.
Joint=stitches+2ormorepcs.ofmaterial
SeamClasses
AsperFederalGovernmentStandard751a
FourSeamClasses
SuperimposedSeam
LappedSeam
BoundSeam
FlatSeam

TwoStitchingClasses
EdgeFinishing
OrnamentalStitching
SuperimposedSeam
Thesuperimposedseam(SS)
classisformedbyjoiningtwoor
morepiecesoffabric,usually
withseamallowanceedgeseven
andonepiecesuperimposed
overthesecond.
SuperimposedSeamTypes
Waistband Waistband
inside outside
Stitchingthread
SuperimposedSeamTypes
SSdNotcommon.

SSe Runstitch &Topstitch Formakingcollars&cuffson

shirts;attachingfrontpockets,baggingfrontpockets,
settingflyonchinos,etc.
SuperimposedSeamTypes
SSdNotcommon.

SSe Runstitch &Topstitch Formakingcollars &cuffs on

shirts;attachingfrontpockets,baggingfrontpockets,
settingflyonchinos,etc.

SSfButtSeam&Tape Forbuttseaming&tapingheel
seamsonshoes,etc.

SSh Seaming&Coverseaming Forcoverseamingknit

tops,undergarments toreinforceseamandgiveita
decorative appearance.
SuperimposedSeamTypes
SSjForattachingazippertapebetweenshelland
facing.

SSk SeamwithPipingForseamapparel,furniturewith
pipinginseam.

SSl Forsettingfrontpocketsonjeans.

SSn HemSeam Forseamingfabricsthatmaybe

susceptibletoseamslippage.
SuperimposedSeamTypes
SSp HemSeam Forseamingfabricsthatmaybe
susceptibletoseamslippage.

SSq Seam,Fold&CordForattachingyokestobackor
shoulderjoiningonshirts,blouses,etc.SimilartoLSe
butdonein2steps.

SSsHemmingandattachingzippertape.
SuperimposedSeamTypes
SSt Forseamingknittedorwovenelastictoboxers and
gym shorts.

SSvNotcommon.

SSw MockFelledSeam Forsideseamingshirts,

blouses,dresses,etc.
LappedSeam

Thelappedseam(LS)classis
definedastwoormorepiecesof
fabricjoinedbyoverlappingat
theneedle.
LappedSeamTypes
LSa Lapseaming Attachingknittedcuffs generallysewn
withacoverstitch 605or607.

LSb NotascommonasLSq wherepieceisattachedand

thencordedortopstitched.MyTshirt!!

LSc FelledSeam Seamingjeans,shirts,jackets,etc.

Generally,withatwoorthreeneedle401Chainstitch.

LSd PatchPocketSetting Forsettingpatchpockets,

flaps,pocketfacings,etc.,generally,witha301
Lockstitch.
LappedSeamTypes
SSe Yoking Seamingyokestobackonshirtsorblouses in
oneoperation.NotascommonasSSq.

SSf YokingSeamingyokes tobackonshirts orblouses

inoneoperation.

SSgTwoPieceWaistbandAttachingawaistband to
chinosorworkpants.

SSjTwoPieceWaistbandAttachingawaistbandtochinos
orworkpants.

Fusing,interlining
LappedSeamTypes
LSk Waistbandingonpajamas;makingrodpocketon
curtains &showercurtains,etc.

LSl Joiningbibtopants ofbiboverallin1operation.

LSmSet OnCenterPlait Attachingsetoncenter

plaitstoshirtsandblouses.

LSn Notcommon.
LappedSeamTypes
LSq Seam&CordSeam Sideseamonjeans;chinos;
jackets,etc.

LSr SleeveSet Settingsleevesondressshirtsor

blouses.

LSsPatchPocketSetting Forsettinglargepatch
pocketsonsuitcoats,overcoats,andjackets.

LSzJoining&Taping Joining&tapingfrontsofknit
briefs&thermalunderwear.
BoundSeam
Theboundseam(BS)Classrequires
aseparatepieceoffabricthat
encompassestheedge ofoneor
morepiecesofthegarment.
BoundSeamTypes
BSa Bindingcarpets,etc,withselvedge
edgebinding.

BSb Settingcollarettes onteeshirts;bindinglegsandfly

onknitbriefs,etc.Usuallysewnwitha406bottomcover
stitch.

BSc WaistbandingonJeansForsettingsleevefacings
toshirts,pipingedgesofouterwear,etc.Canbesewn
witha301lockstitchor401Chainstitch.

BSd Seamingwithselvedgeedgebindingon
outerwear.
BoundSeamTypes
BSe Seaming andbinding onouterwear.

BSg Sewnin2operations Mockclean,finishbinding.

BSj Sewnin2operations Mockclean,finishbinding.

FlatSeam

Theflatseam(FS)classisthe
smallestclass.Theformationof
thisseamoccurswiththebutting
togetheroftwopiecesoffabric,
butnotoverlappingthem.
FlatSeamTypes
FSa Flatseaming Flatseamingunderwear,
fleece,exercisewear,etc.Generally,sewnwith
a607stitch.Sometimesa606Flatlock Stitch.

Fsf Boltendseamingwitha501Stitch.
StitchingClasses

Inthisclassthestitching isperformed
onasinglepieceoffabric.Thefabric
maybefoldedinvarietyofwaysso
thestitchingmaybethroughmore
thanonethickness
StitchingClasses
TwoStitchingClasses

9EdgeFinishing

9OrnamentalStitching
EdgeFinishing

Edgefinishing(EF)isstitchingthat
encompassesthecutedge orprovidesa
finishforasingleplyoffabricwitha
foldededgeconfiguration.
EdgeFinishingTypes
EFa Hemmingselvedgeedge,shirtfront.

EFbCleanFinishHemHemmingshirts,jeans,shorts,
etc.

EFc BlindhemmingHemmingbottomsoftee
shirts,undershirts,etc.usuallysewnwitha503
Stitch.

EFd Serging Serging pantspanels,flyfacings,etc.

EdgeFinishingTypes
EFe Serge&HemSerging edgesofnapkins,
sheercurtains,etc.

EFf Hem&Insert Hemandinsertelasticto

infantpanties,etc.

EFgHemandinsertelastictoinfantpanties,
etc.

EFh Beltloops Makingbeltloopsfor

jeansandcasualpants,shorts,etc.
usuallysewnwith406stitch.
EdgeFinishingTypes
EFj Makingstrapsorbeltswithcleanfinish.

EFl Blindstitch Hem Hemmingdresses,slacks,

coats,and bedspreads.Generally,sewnwith103
blindstitch.

EFm Blindstitch Hem HemmingDresses,slacks,

coats,and bedspreads.Generally,sewnwith103
blindstitch.

EFn Makingstrapsorbeltswithcleanfinish.
EdgeFinishingTypes

EFp Makingstrapsorbeltswithcleanfinish.

EFqHemandinsertelastictoinfantpanties,etc.

EFrTunneledelastic Hemandinsertelasticto
infantpanties,etc.

EFu MakingSpaghetti Makingstraps.Stitchis

hiddenandnotvisible.
EdgeFinishingTypes

EFv Centerplaiting Cutoncenterplait.Generally,

sewnwith2rowsof401stitch.

EFy Makingstrapsorbeltswithcleanfinish.

EFz Makingstrapsorbeltswithcleanfinish.
OrnamentalStitching
Ornamentalstitchingmaybeusedonasingleply
fordecorativepurposes.Itcanbedoneanywhere
excepttheedge.
OrnamentalStitchingTypes
OSa DecorativeStitchingDecorativestitch
backpocketsonjeans;saddlestitching.

OSf SewingDarts Dartpanelonslacks,

chinos,blouses,etc.
SeamAppearance
Isevaluatedonthefollowingfactors:

Drapability isaffectedbytheflexibilityof
materialsandseamconstruction.Seams
needthesameamountofdrapability asthe
restofthegarment.Useofheavythread,
complexseamstructuresmainlycontribute
totherigidityofaseam.
SeamAppearance

Consistencyofstitch&seamformation
verycriticaltogarmentappearanceas
irregularityaffectstheshapeofthe
garmentandcancausepoorfitand
unsightlyappearance.
SeamAppearance

SeamFlatness Aflatseamisfreeoffabric
creases,wavinessandpucker.Some
factorsaffectingseamflatnessmaybe
controlledbypressing,topstitchingand
coverstitching.
SeamPerformance
9Relates to the elasticity, strength and
flexibilityofaseam.

9Elasticity Involves two factorselongation

andrecovery.

9Seam elasticity is the degree that a seam

recovers to its original length immediately
afterelongation.
SeamPerformance
9Elongation istheamountthataseamcanbe
stretchedwithoutbreaking.

9Recovery is the return of its original length

whenthestressisremoved.
SeamPerformance

9Strength is important factor in determining the

durability of a garment and determined by the
pullingforce&abrasion

9Seam Tenacity is the force necessary to break the

fabricortheweakeststitchofaseam
SeamPerformance

9Seamabrasion resistanceistheamountofrubbing
actionneededtowearawaystitchesintheseam

9Seam strength is related to stitch type, thread

strength&tension,seamtype&widthandspi