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NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com

Salmon Ladder Plans

Copyright 2015 Ferguson Systems, Inc All rights reserved.

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WELCOME

Welcome to Your NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com Complete Instruction Set

Thanks for selecting our construction plans. No other method of building your own backyard course comes
anywhere close to whats provided for you here in this complete packet. No personal blogs, no YouTube videos,
no slick 3-D computer renderings of warehouse-sized obstacles that cost a fortune. Nothing else compares to
what youll find right here. We know this for a fact because we looked high and low searching everywhere for
anything we could find before we decided we would just have to figure it out for ourselves the hard way.

And thats exactly why weve painstakingly documented every detail of how we built our course so you can do the
same in a fraction of the time it took us and without all the frustrations we ran into along the way. Weve simplified
the entire process and laid it all out step by step so you can avoid the mistakes, keep your costs down and build
your backyard course as quickly as possible.

NinjaWarriorBlueprints empowers your to take your personal training to a whole new level - now on a daily basis in
your own backyard. We want to hear from you, so please send us your comments, feedback and suggestions.

Whether you build your obstacles identical to the plan provided here, or youre simply looking for a foundation and
some ideas to cook up your own course, wed love to hear from you.

Can we ask a favor? If you find these plans valuable, whether its one single idea and a time-saving tip, or whether
the whole packet completely blows your mind with unimaginable awesomeness

Would you PLEASE return us a simple cosmic favor and some really killer karma by helping us spread the word
and telling folks to check out our website? Like our Facebook page and share a post with your friends, give us a
shout out on Twitter, or doing anything that feels natural to help us get the word out.

Thanks for helping us spread the word, because wed like to keep rolling out our free stuff and our paid plans,
along with even more backyard designs and new add-on obstacles as often as we can - which really depends on
you telling friends to check out www.NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com.

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On that note, please dont pass these actual plans around. Even the free stuff. We simply ask that you tell friends
about our website, so theyll visit for themselves and find everything we have available there. Were making all
these designs and details as affordable as possible - and that depends on traffic to our website so sponsors can
help keep the costs low, as well as folks paying for our paid products. Make sense?

So, if you like this stuff, help us spread the word about NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com !

Thanks-in-advance!
Alex, Graham & Scott Ferguson @NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com

No part of this publication may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in

any way, including but not limited to digital copying and printing without the prior agreement
and written permission of the publisher.

Ferguson Systems Inc.

3288 Morgan Drive, Suite 100
Birmingham, AL 35216
email: NinjaWarriorBlueprints@gmail.com

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RunG Template -Salmon Ladder

Drawi
ng i
s to Exact Scale
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START HERE

The SINGLE BIGGEST TIP we can possibly recommend, is to take a few minutes and read through this entire set
of notes before you do anything else. Read all the way through em. If you do, youll save yourself at least an hour
or two and a handful of dollars along the way. Youre welcome ; - )

Timeline
You can easily finish your salmon ladder in a single day, even counting a trip to the store for your materials. It really
only takes a few hours to do most of the work - heres the key to your timing

Youve got to let your posts set up in the concrete before you can bolt on the rungs of the ladder.
Fast-setting concrete typically sets in about 40 minutes (depends a bit on weather, thats at 70 degrees F). Colder
weather means it will set slower.

You should really wait about 4 hours or more before you apply any kind of heavy load to the posts. So, plan your
start time and your day accordingly.

Heres a suggestion, consider digging your holes and setting your posts on a Friday after work. Then let the
concrete dry over night. Next morning youll be ready to knock out the rungs and immediately use your new
salmon ladder.

Overall, digging the holes and setting the two posts takes about an hour. (depends on how hard your ground is)

Cutting, marking and attaching the rungs should take another hour or so. Maybe two - tops. The elapsed time in
between those steps is key for the concrete to set.

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NEXT STEPS

Gather Your Tools

You want to gather your tools first, so you can figure out what you have on hand and what can actually find in the
garage. That way youll know what to borrow, buy or rent as needed.

See the tools check list included in the back of the packet. If youre not familiar with the names of some tools or
with what they look like, hit up Google or just go straight to the HomeDepot website and search the description
listed.

NOTE: Print out the Rung Template Page now, and cut it out with scissors. The template is exactly to scale of
the rungs youll be making and you can use it to trace the size and shape of the rungs, when its time. And
doing it now, or at least before you start building, is smart because youre not going to want to stop and go print
stuff out later when youre in the middle of full-on construction momentum.

NEXT NOTE: If youre just building the salmon ladder right now, theres only two holes to dig. You can use a
manual wooden handled hole digger (its like a shovel that pinches the dirt) to dig your post holes. But if the
ground your digging into is extremely hard, or near tree roots, seriously consider hitting the HomeDepot rental
department and grab a power auger.

You can rent the power auger for like $85 bucks and its amazing the time and energy youll save if you have really
hard ground. Again, might not be worth it just for digging the two posts on the salmon ladder, but when the time
comes to expand your set-up and you need to dig another 6 holes we wouldnt hesitate. (Unless you want to put
in some serious hours digging holes and count it as part of your ANW training for the day.)

Get Your Materials

Captain Obvious here, but having a pickup truck to handle the longer lumber would be a good call. Or you can
do like we did and strap everything to the luggage rack of the mini-van.

If youre going to strap stuff to the luggage rack, which worked just fine for us, you might want to pick up a set of
these ratchet straps at HomeDepot while youre there.

12 ft. Ratchet Tie-Downs 4-Pack ($13.87) theyre on aisle 14. Theyre also included in the Optional Items
materials list.

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These work great because they ratchet down nice and tight to hold tension on all the lumber and it was a lot
easier than trying to tie it on the roof with rope and having to worry about it coming loose on the way home.
These straps definitely came in handy for all kinds of stuff.

Heres another option, since you have a complete materials list, if you plan ahead a couple of days you can place
your order online or stop by the store with your materials list and just have HomeDepot deliver everything to you.
(nice)

Its typically $79 for local delivery, whether you get two screws delivered or a whole truck full of lumber. Heres
another tip thats related. Cut-off is usually noon one day prior to your requested delivery day. So plan accordingly
and send the store your materials list by noon the day before you want stuff delivered and you should be good to
go. If youre shopping via the website, its best to call and confirm with a real human that they got your pick list
and everything you requested is in stock and will be in your delivery. Likewise, if you plan to pick up materials
yourself, you can still send the list ahead and have them pick and pull everything you need. That way theyll have
everything ready and waiting for you when you pull up. Just pay, load and go.

One more tip on lumber You may be tempted into thinking, hey, heres some lumber thats the same size as
whats on the list, but it costs less than whats listed. Well its probably not pressure treated wood. Pressure
treated is what you want if you want your set-up to last through the weather and the wear and tear. Its the
industrial strength lumber that contractors use to build patios and decks and anything else outside in the elements
thats going to see all four seasons of weather year after year.

OK, so youve got your tools and youve got your materials. Lets get busy!

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SAFETY, DISCLAIMERS, TERMS OF USE & LEGAL JAZZ

Heres the Fine Print

Before you get started, please read our info on safety, fasteners and general building tips on our website. Always
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LETS GET TO WORK

STEP 1 - Dig the Holes

Dig two holes 42 inches apart. The center of the holes should be 42 inches apart (not the edges).

TIP: If you plan to eventually ad on to your salmon ladder and build out a more complete ninja course later, make
sure to choose a site for your salmon posts that allows for open space with at least 16 feet of length behind it, and
at least 4 feet out to the side.

NEXT TIP: Be smart and think before you dig. Do you have an in-ground sprinkler system? Are there any utility
lines running underneath where you want your holes? Phone, cable, gas, power, fiberoptic? Double-check.

How deep and how wide? Dig the holes 24 inches deep and about 12 inches wide.

Take your hammer and crack up the concrete block so you end up with a relatively flat chunk to put in the bottom
of each hole. Your post will rest on this and it will help to keep the whole thing from settling into the dirt over time.
(yeah - thats what the concrete block was for)

NOTE: put on some safety goggles or sun glasses before cracking on that concrete.

STEP 2 - Set the Posts

OK, now set your first post in the hole. Pour some concrete mix into the hole, not all of it, just some of it. How
much? Maybe 1/4 of the hole. Just eyeball it. The point is to mix a little at a time as you go, so its evenly mixed
all the way through from the bottom of the hole to the top.

Now squirt some water in there (or use a bucket to bring some over if you dont have a hose) then grab that piece
of rebar (the rusty metal looking stick) and use that to stir it all together and mix it in the hole. You basically want it
kinda slushy, like a really thick slush. Not too wet - but wet enough. (Its not scientific). This was way easier than
mixing it in a wheel barrow or bucket then trying to pour it in the hole.

Once you have that first layer mixed up pretty good, go ahead and pour some more concrete mix in and repeat
the process as needed until you get to the top of the hole.

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NOTE: After you get the first bit of mix in the hole, make sure to strap your post level on and keep an eye on it.
Once that hole starts getting full, its gonna get hard to straighten up the post, or even twist it around in the hole.
If youve got someone helping (which we recommend) make it their job to hold the post, keep an eye on the post
level and keep the post nice and straight. If you dont have a helper, you may want to find some sticks laying
around to break off and wedge em between the post and the edge of the hole to help keep it straight while youre
filling in the concrete.

ANOTHER NOTE: Its easy to over-focus on the pole being straight (up and down) while losing site of the general
direction where the front edge or face of the post is angled. Just remember that youre going to put up two
posts and that the bar going across for the salmon ladder is going to need to be relatively flat across both faces of
the posts.

Alright, so youve got the first post set. Now set the second post the same way you did the first. Remember the
note about the face of the post and making sure its relatively flush when the cross bar is in place.

Great. So now youve got both of your posts set. Dont worry if theyre exactly the same height at the top.
Theyre probably not going to be. As the last step, well trim em off to match. Just leave em as-is for now.

Its time to let the concrete set really well before you start bolting in the rungs. Fast-setting concrete typically sets
in about 40 minutes (depends a bit on weather, thats at 70 degrees F). Colder weather means it will set slower.

You should really wait about 4 hours or more before you apply any kind of heavy load to the posts. Overnight is
optimal, but thats your call.

STEP 3 - Mark Your Posts, Cut the Rungs & Bolt em In

Mark one post - mark the inside of the post - for where you want to place your lowest rung. Thats your
starting point. How far up the post is really your choice. One thing to consider is your arm length. You probably
dont want your first rung so low that youll be squatting to get under it, or worse yet, on your knees. You also
dont want it so high that you only have room for a couple of rungs. You want the rungs to be 12 inches apart
going up the post, so plan accordingly.

OK, you marked a spot for the bottom of your first rung. Now make a mark twelve inches above that first mark,
thats where the bottom of the next rung will go. Repeat for the rest of the rungs on that one post.

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FYI - 12 inches apart is what we found as the official standard spacing for the actual ANW obstacle. Of course,
we havent been on the course to measure it ourselves, but hey, thats what the Interwebs say.

Next, cut all your rungs. What about marking the other post? Dont worry, well get to it. Just stick with us and
follow along. Wax on, Wax off.

So, nows the time for that handy Rung Template you already printed and cut out before you started. (see the first
section of these notes if the Rung Template thing is not ringing a bell)

Grab your 2x4x8 and trace your rungs onto the board. Then use your circular saw to cut the rungs.

Next, bolt your rungs on the post you just marked. Do that entire post first. Youll see why in a minute.

By the way, the rungs are also official standard size (again, according to what we found on the Internet). Youll
want to mount them at a 35 degree angle. Good news. Read on.

Since you used the handy-dandy Rung Template, the rungs are already cut at a 35 degree angle, all you have to
do is place the bottom edge of the rung on the mark on your post - and make sure the back edge of the 2x4 is
flush with the post. It automagically makes a 35 degree angle. This also makes it easy to keep flush while
bolting em on to the post. If you want to double check your cutting skills, you can use the speed square to verify
youve got a 35 degree angle or just go with good enough if thats how you roll (were not talking exact science
here).

Next, grab your drill and the 13/64 drill bit. Drill two pilot holes all the way through each rung. Id suggest you drill
the rungs for just one side, then after you have those bolted on, drill the holes for the other side. This will help you
avoid getting too far ahead of yourself, and make sure you put the holes in just the right spot.

Notice on the drawing how the holes are slightly staggered and not directly in a line on top of each other. Thats
so its less likely to cause splitting in the wood and gives the rung a little more strength overall.

OK, youve got your rungs, and they have pilot holes in em. Now place your rung on the mark on your post, and
stick your pencil through each hole to make a mark for where to drill pilot holes on the post. NOTE: this is your
second official reminder drill and mount the rungs on the inside of each post.

Now that youve marked the post, set the rung aside and drill a pilot hole into the post on each mark. Use the
same drill bit as before. These pilot holes make it easier to crank those lag screws into the post.

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Once you have your pilot holes drilled, grab your rungs, your ratchet set, your fender washers and your lag
screws. Slip a washer onto each lag screw, thread the screw into the rung, then crank it into the post until its
good and tight. How tight? Well, youll probably see the washer dent into the wood a little. Make sure to put the
washers on because they help distribute the pressure of the bolt across the rung and reduce the chance of
splitting your rungs.

Great. Now its time to follow the same process for the rungs that go on the opposite post. Follow the instructions
above, starting with marking the post for the rung spacing. Heres the KEY to success and happiness. Start by
marking the bottom rung using the following method

Hold the rung up on the post (or get your helper to hold it), then grab the crossbar for your salmon ladder, thats
the metal conduit pipe. Rest the pipe across the rungs, just like it would be sitting if you were about to start using
the salmon ladder. Grab a standard level and place it on top of the crossbar. Move the rung up or down on the
post until the bar is level. Mark the post at the bottom of your rung.

Now, finish marking the post the rest of the way up,12 inches apart, just like you did before. Doing it this way will
make certain you have a level salmon ladder crossbar for your workouts. If you want to double check yourself as
you mark the rest, just slap the crossbar and level on the rung each time you mark one.

Now, follow the process from before, drilling the pilot hole, then bolt on the rest of the rungs.

BOOM! Youre ready to rock that salmon ladder.

Options and Finishing Thoughts

If youre not planning to add on to your set-up and build more structure off your salmon ladder posts, youll
probably want to attach a couple of braces to make the ladder more rigid and sturdy towards the top. Otherwise,
when youre topping out, it may whip back and forth a good bit - which is going to put more wear and tear on
your set-up.

Even if you are planning to add on to the posts and build out the rest of your backyard course, you may want to
install the following braces until youre ready to build out the rest, just install them on a more temporary basis -
without the concrete.

So, heres how to add some simple braces. Use the remaining materials - listed in the OPTIONAL Items of the
materials list.

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Make a pilot hole in one end of the 2x4x12. Thread the washer on the lag screw and attach it to the outside of
the post. Attach it low enough so that it forms a triangle shape back down to the ground behind the salmon
ladder. Basically like a kickstand. If you want to make it more permanent, you can dig a bit of a hole (not too
deep) wherever that 2x4 meets the ground. Put a piece of concrete block underneath it and fill it in with some
concrete mix.

If you plan on expanding your set-up in the future, skip the part about the hole and the concrete because youll
want to be able to remove those braces when the time comes to build out your bigger set-up.

ALSO - You may be thinking - hey, these posts are taller than necessary. It looks like Ive got extra up there!

Well, thats by design - it gives you a couple of options. If youd like to fit some more rungs on the post, you can
probably make that happen. It really depends on how low you started your first rung at the bottom.

You can always leave the posts as-is. Thats an option. To finish ours off and give it some more stability, we
decided to trim down the excess at the top of the posts, then cap it off across the back with a 2x6 board. (yep,
thats why you have that other piece of lumber). Just decide where you want the top of your posts to end and
mark em.

Then take a quick measurement across the outside of the posts, down near the ground at the bottom. Provided
that you did a solid job with the post level when you were setting the concrete, that bottom measurement should
be the right length for cutting your 2x6 board to fit the top. Double check the top measurement before you cut
though and see how close it measures to the bottom. You may need to adjust the length of your 2x6 top cap
accordingly.

If its wider at the top, but not too much, you can probably push the posts together to get the board to fit nicely
and square up your salmon ladder. If its a lot wider at the top, you can cut the board to fit whatever it actually
measures, just remember that your crossbar pipe needs to overhang the rungs on each side by a safe margin, and
if it gets wider as you get to the top well, you get the picture.

Once youve screwed your 2x6 across the posts, you can take your handsaw and cut the posts off flush to give it
a nice finished look. Alternately, if you want to use your circular saw, probably best before you put the 2x6 board
in place. You can use it to cut through most of the post, then finish through with the hand saw. Just be extra
careful on a ladder with saws. Nuff said.

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LAST BUT NOT LEAST

Heres a Question and a Favor

The Question: What do you think about these plans and the notes and tips that go along with them?

Even if you havent built everything out yet, or maybe you just downloaded these to get some ideas and you
plan to do your own thing, whatever the case may be - will you please take a moment to tell us what you think?
Just email us directly at NinjaWarriorBlueprints@gmail.com.

A Favor? If you found value in these plans, whether it was one simple idea, a time-saving tip, or the whole thing
completely blew your mind with unimaginable awesomeness

Would you PLEASE return us a simple cosmic favor and some really killer karma by helping us spread the word?
Like our Facebook page, share a post with a link to all your Facebook friends, give us a shout out on Twitter, or do
anything else that feels natural that would help us spread the word about these plans and our website -
NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com.

Wed be grateful if youd help other people find these plans on our website, because wed like to keep rolling out
more free stuff, along with our paid products, and even more backyard designs and new add-on obstacles as
often as we can. That really depends on you telling friends to check this stuff out, if you think its worthy.

Thanks-in-advance!
Alex, Graham & Scott Ferguson @NinjaWarriorBlueprints.com

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TOOLS LIST
You want to gather your tools before you start, so you can figure out what you have on hand and what can
actually find in the garage. That way youll know what to borrow, buy or rent as needed.

If youre not familiar with the names of some tools or with what they look like, hit up Google or just go straight to
the HomeDepot website and search the description listed.

Post Level

Standard Level

Circular Saw

Hand Saw

Speed Square

Extension Cord

Drill

13/64 drill bit

Phillips head screw bit for drill

Ratchet & Socket Set w/ 1/4" socket head

Pencil

Extra batteries and charger (if your using cordless power tools)

8' Step Ladder

30' Tape Measure

Hammer

Garden hose/water source for concrete

Gloves

Safety Goggles or Sunglasses

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MATERIALS LIST

Notes on Materials
The Basic Items list includes everything you need for the salmon ladder construction.

The Optional Items list includes items you should consider based on the construction notes. You read all the
way through the construction notes, right? OK, just be sure to read completely through the notes, so you can
decide which optional items youll want and need.

Everything on these lists came from HomeDepot. So, you should be able to get everything all from one place, if,
they have everything in stock. Plan accordingly by calling ahead or shopping online. See the first section in the
construction notes for other tips about getting your materials.

Based on our research, some of the HomeDepot stores do not cary the 16 foot 4x4 posts, and if they do,
sometimes they only cary the untreated type of lumber. If you go with the untreated lumber, you should seriously
consider picking up a gallon of some type of waterproofing sealant like Thompsons WaterSeal to treat the posts
before you set them. First choice - best choice, ask if they have the pressure-treated posts.

If youre coming up short on the posts with HomeDepot, we have found that Lowes stores typically cary pressure
treated 16 foot 4x4 posts. If you go with Lowes, heres the SKU# 404162CA4 for the posts.

Obviously, you can shop for any of these materials at any other local hardware & lumber store you have in your
area.

NOTE - Save yourself some time and energy and have them cut your conduit pipe at the store with pipe cutter.

Internet # Store SKU # Description Qty Price Cost

202532685 903721 8 in. x 8 in. x 16 in. Concrete Block 1 $ 1.38 $ 1.38

100318521 842303 50 lb. Fast Set Concrete 7 $ 5.20 $ 36.40

100010393 167929 2 in. x 4 in. x 8 ft. #2 Prime Pressure-Treated 1 $ 3.87 $ 3.87

Lumber

100400409 580015 1 in. EMT Conduit (cut to 48" in the store) 1 $ 6.40 $ 6.40

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Basic Materials

Internet # Store SKU # Description Qty Price Cost

100018427 168335 2 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft. #2 Prime Pressure-Treated 1 $ 5.17 $ 5.17

Lumber

202092721 274356 1/2 in. x 4 ft. Rebar 1 $ 2.89 $ 2.89

204645625 655090 5/16 in. x 4 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Lag Screw 20 $ 0.60 $ 12.00

204632770 590670 5/16 in. x 1-1/2 in. Zinc-Plated Fender Washer 20 $ 0.16 $ 3.20

204806399 134380 #10 3 in. Phillips Flat-Head Deck Screws (1 1 $ 7.89 $ 7.89
lb.-Pack)

100087743 258552 4 in. x 4 in. x 16 ft. #2 Pressure Treated Timber 2 $ 21.87 $ 43.74

Total $ 122.94

Internet # Store SKU # Description Qty Price Cost

202339180 126724 12 ft. Ratchet Tie-Downs (4-Pack) - if you 1 $ 13.87 $ 13.87

don't have a truck

204862957 168161 2 in. x 4 in. x 12 ft. #2 Pressure-Treated 2 $ 5.57 $ 11.14

Lumber - for braces

204645625 655090 5/16 in. x 4 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Lag Screw - 2 $ 0.60 $ 1.20
for braces

204632770 590670 5/16 in. x 1-1/2 in. Zinc-Plated Fender Washer 2 $ 0.16 $ 0.32
- for braces

RENTAL RENTAL 3 ft. Power Auger (12" diameter) - for digging 1 $ 87.00 $ 87.00
in really hard ground

The following items are for additional rungs

if you plan to add any

100010393 167929 2 in. x 4 in. x 8 ft. #2 Pressure-Treated Lumber 1 $ 3.87 $ 3.87

- for extra rungs

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Optional Items

Internet # Store SKU # Description Qty Price Cost

204645625 655090 5/16 in. x 4 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Lag Screw - 12 $ 0.60 $ 7.20
for extra rungs

204632770 590670 5/16 in. x 1-1/2 in. Zinc-Plated Fender Washer 12 $ 0.16 $ 1.92
- for extra rungs

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